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Pluscarden Abbey: I spent a day living alongside monks at Britain's only functioning medieval monastery
The Scotsman
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4 saat önce
I went to Pluscarden Abbey, in Moray, to experience what a spiritual retreat is like at Britain's only functioning medieval monastery.
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Hidden in the hills of northern Scotland is Britain's only medieval monastery that's still
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alive with monks. Founded in 1230 by King Alexander II of Scotland, Plus Garden Abbey,
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just six miles from Elgin, has survived centuries of upheaval, ruin and restoration. Today it's home
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to a community of Benedictine monks who continue a rhythm of prayer and work, much like their
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predecessors did almost 800 years ago. The monks follow a strict daily schedule of prayer known as
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the divine office sung in Latin Gregorian chant, and visitors aren't just welcome to observe,
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Plus Garden offers unguided retreats where people of any faith can have a glimpse into the monastic
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routine. So I decided to try it out for 24 hours myself, but before that I sat down with Father
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Giles, Plus Garden's longest-serving monk who has been here for over 50 years.
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I'm Father Giles. I'm a Benedictine monk at Plus Garden Abbey. I've been a monk for 53 years.
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It's a quiet life in some ways. There's a lot going on, but it's not noisy or obvious. If it's what
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you are called to, then it's a great life. But if it's not what you're called to, it's impossible.
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People want to come and try being a monk. I think the record short stay is 20 minutes.
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And after 20 minutes, he desperately needed a cigarette.
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Now, I wasn't going to attempt to become a monk. Instead, I opted for a spiritual retreat at Plus
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Garden and hoped I'd stay at the Abbey for longer than 20 minutes. These retreats are where people
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of any faith have the opportunity to participate in the monastic life of prayer, reading, and work.
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I arrived on Monday evening and met prior Father Simon as well as Father Giles. Father Giles then showed
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me where I'd be staying, the St. Joseph's Guest House, which only opened in March and boasts nine
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en suite bedrooms. You can see here some of the facilities. It's much nicer than many hotels
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I've been to. However, it is not a hotel. It costs nothing to go on a retreat. However,
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a donation is much appreciated. I got ready and then attended Compline, which was the last office
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of the day. I learned from others that it's a popular favourite as the Psalms are always the same
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and so they can easily be recited entirely by heart. I ended up going to sleep later than expected
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after taking some notes. However, I woke up at 5.30 in the morning ready for the next day.
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I missed the first office as I was told it was being held in private and there wouldn't be much
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for me to see. I did some reading in the morning of the rule of St. Benedict, which is what the monks
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follow as Benedictines. I got ready for lords. You can see me looking very happy here and full of energy.
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It was the second office of the day. Monks pray the divine office, which they chant seven times a day,
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then they also do have mass. I sat right at the front and attempted to catch a glimpse of the monks
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who were partially hidden from the views of the public. I then had some breakfast while reading.
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I ate more than the banana. I also ate a croissant and then I did some more reading while I prepared
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for a mass, which was a very interesting experience for me as someone who has never been to Catholic
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mass before. After that, the monks get into their work gear and for me it was apple picking. So I joined
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a monk and we went to pick some apples. I was not in the right shoes for it. However, I thought the shoes
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would help me pick up the apples from the tops of the trees. However, this was not the case and instead
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the heeled shoes made me fall over as you can see. After this, it was the office of sext, which was one of
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the shorter offices of the day. Finally, it was lunchtime. Father Simon made me the typical lunch of a monk.
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Here there was vegetable soup, a plate of potatoes, eggs and green beans. You can see me taking a bite there, looking very happy.
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And next up was the office of nun, which followed with more work. I went on a walk with Father Giles
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and during this we went conquer picking and afterwards we walked to Saint Scholastica's,
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which is the old women's retreat. This retreat isn't as modern as the new one. It was made in the 90s.
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But during this time, I got to learn more lesser known facts about the monks. Like every new year,
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the monks get to pick a movie. Previous choices have been Top Gun Maverick, The Martian and Finding Nemo,
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which is all a great big surprise to me. We also head to Houtman Beach to do monkey things once a
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year, in Father Giles's words. And I looked around at the old women's retreat for a bit and compared
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it to the new modern one. It was very different and I also managed to go to the Postgarden Abbey shop
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and pick up a CD. The monks have a number of CDs and they're actually also on Spotify. And during the
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afternoon, a group of over 50 German tourists came for mass. Afterwards, I changed my sheets in my room for the
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next person to stay there. I heard the church bells in the Abbey. I hadn't been able to see them yet,
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but very kindly and without being asked, Barbara Giles didn't bring them for me.
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So afterwards was Vespers, which was also a favourite of many people I spoke to and maybe a
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favourite of mine too. It was a really nice service. And for the rest of the day, I went on a walk of the
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grounds, which were very peaceful. I liked how isolated the Abbey was from the noisiness of typical day-to-day
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life. Here's the automatic grass cutter, which is quite iconic in Postgarden Abbey. Overall,
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I had a great experience. I felt very welcome to my entire time at the Abbey. It was definitely a
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change of pace from the typical day-to-day life, but it was good to escape the hustle and bustle
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for 24 hours. Something that was on my mind though was how did someone make the decision to become a
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monk? It seems like one of the biggest commitments you could make. And luckily for me, I had someone who
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could answer the question. Barbara Giles has been at the Abbey for 52 years since he was 23 years old,
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and he told me his story right from the start when he visited Postgarden for the very first time in 1971.
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I used to do a lot of cycling. So I cycled up here one time. I think it was the 27th of September 1971.
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I met some of the monks and they were a weird looking bunch. Wellies and funny clothing for
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working outdoors when it went. Anyway, I came back later in the years, I guess, and I found it very
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appealing. So I said, you know, can I do a monk for a monk? So I said, yeah, sure. And I came in November,
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December that year, and affirmed my desire to go down this path. I feel that this was what I
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ought to be doing. March, the next year, I joined definitively. It's been down here, let us know.
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