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On this episode of Hair Me Out, we follow Jessica Mills (@jmillsmakeupandhair) who is wigmaker specializing in cosplay wigs. Last year, Jessica was diagnosed with breast cancer after months of health insurance issues and fighting to be taken seriously by doctors. After shaving her head in preparation for chemotherapy, Jessica saved her hair to turn into a wig. We follow Jessica as she shares the process for creating a wig from scratch and how she works on wigs for her client Tas Al-Ghul (@tasalghul.)

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Hair Me Out is a dramatic hair transformation series that documents the process of hairstyling from start to finish. No matter who you are or your skill level, you'll find something that will inspire you. Hair Me Out provides an inside the salon style look at epic hair changes from before to after!

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Transcript
00:00It is a little bit painful to physically cut ties to something that was a little bit of my identity.
00:08I was the girl with pink hair.
00:10If we were trying to find one person and we were in a group of people, I'm like,
00:13oh, just look for my hair, it's bright purple, you'll see me.
00:16Cancer took that choice away from me.
00:19My name is Jessica Mills, I'm a wig maker, and last year I was diagnosed with breast cancer.
00:26Most of my clients are cosplayers.
00:28Cosplay wigs are a little different than a ready-to-wear or everyday wig.
00:33This is meant to emulate a character, whether animated or live action.
00:37They tend to be a little more extra, a little more larger than life.
00:42I cosplay myself, but I also do more clients than my own wigs.
00:48In 2021, when the film industry started to pick back up again, I was on a movie for a little
00:52bit.
00:53I was brought in for the wig work.
00:54I was trying to make up for the lost time of the pandemic, basically.
00:57We lost a lot of time, a lot of experience, and I was trying to get all of that back.
01:02And then suddenly, stop, you have to deal with this cancer thing.
01:08I was taking my bra off one night, and I felt a lump.
01:12And it was right where my underwire hit.
01:14It didn't get better.
01:16It didn't get worse.
01:17It didn't get bigger.
01:19Then, what I had found previously was beginning to hurt.
01:23And I had to fight with doctors to be seen, which is terrible to have to say.
01:34After a couple of fights with that, I was finally taken seriously.
01:38And lo and behold, I had stage 3 cancer.
01:41That kicked off a year of treatment and tests and everything else.
01:46And I worked through that.
01:48I was still working on set the entire time I was going through chemo.
01:50So this is the hair that we shaved off of my head at the beginning of chemo.
01:56When it was on my body, it was a little bit longer than this.
01:59You lose some length in that.
02:00I had bangs.
02:01Can't reuse that.
02:02This hair I'm going to use to make a wig.
02:05No one person's head of hair will make a wig on its own.
02:08I was really touched that a lot of friends offered their hair to me in the process.
02:13Piece by piece, hair by hair, I will tie that hair into a lace material.
02:19When I say I'm tying it, I'm literally taking one little section of lace.
02:26You are just tying a knot.
02:32And you repeat that over and over and over again.
02:35I had this grand idea that I was going to make it for myself during chemo.
02:40But to make a wig from scratch takes about 40 to 80 hours of work.
02:44All the spare time that I had, I needed to rest.
02:47So now my focus is more that I just want to keep that hair and not lose it.
02:53Even though all the big stuff is over, I still have my hormone therapy stuff to take care of.
03:00I have found that the doctors that I'm seeing don't call it remission anymore.
03:03They might say that you have no evidence of disease.
03:06I get a lot of people who say to me, oh, you're done now.
03:09Or, oh, I'm so glad this is over for you.
03:11And I have to explain to a lot of people that it really isn't.
03:13My cancer is considered hormone driven.
03:16So I need to take a hormone blocker.
03:19I have to take calcium because the hormone blockers can leach the calcium out of your bones.
03:24So that's a risk.
03:25I take a cherry supplement, which is supposed to help with the arthritis.
03:30Can't tell if it does or not.
03:31There is a study for it.
03:33But, I mean, I'll do what I can.
03:35I'm going to have to do this every day, twice a day, for the next five to ten years.
03:39And that was an adjustment for me.
03:41This pill, this is an interesting one.
03:44It's supposed to be the thing that keeps people with stage four living for longer.
03:49And for higher risk of recurrence, like myself, stage three but high risk, it's going to keep it from coming
03:53back.
03:56Unfortunately, it's thinning out my hair.
03:58It's not as bad as chemo, but it is definitely, like, I have half of the amount of hair that
04:02I used to have.
04:03And I had all these plans for different hairstyles I was going to do as it grew back in.
04:07And since it's thinning out my hairline, I can't do that.
04:11So it's just a change.
04:16This was a dining room.
04:17And it is now my studio.
04:20I've got ten wigs this week that I'm working on.
04:23And I'm going to need a bunch of different tools to do it.
04:26I love this little carousel.
04:27I've had it for years.
04:28The poor thing is so covered in hairspray at this point.
04:30I've got these dowels that I'll use.
04:32After the hair's already been curled,
04:34you can use it to kind of coax the hair around the shape that you want
04:38so that you get the curl that you want, kind of smooth things back in.
04:43Cosplay tends to be more synthetic than human.
04:46Synthetic hair, it's going to hold up to humidity better than human hair would.
04:50If it was human, it would frizz.
04:53Hey! Hi!
04:54My client today, she's a friend of mine named Taz,
04:57and she is a burlesque performer.
04:59She approached me to do a wig for her for a photo shoot that she's going to do.
05:02So here she is.
05:03Yay!
05:04That nice sweep over the face that you're asking for.
05:07Yes.
05:07Very Veronica Lake.
05:08I love it.
05:09That's a nice structure going.
05:11We're just going to do a little quick pin curl prep.
05:14This is going to give us something to pin into,
05:16so that the wig doesn't slide back or off or whatever.
05:19I am a working performance artist in Los Angeles.
05:22Sometimes I don't want to do all my hair by myself,
05:25and it's not a question of having enough hair.
05:26My hair is very long, but that actually makes it a pain to style.
05:30So having a dear friend who is a wig maker and stylist is extremely convenient.
05:37And then we're going to put a cap on you.
05:41Put your finger right there.
05:43Just the one.
05:43Yep.
05:44As it became more apparent that the cancer treatment was going to impact her ability,
05:50not just to work, but literally just to be able to move her arms.
05:56As a friend group, we wanted to get a fundraiser started.
05:59We raised several tens of thousands of dollars.
06:02Everyone was so happy to help because we all love chess.
06:05What do you think?
06:07Yes.
06:07Oh, it's wonderful.
06:08Yes.
06:08So I did have one question, and I've noticed that sometimes this curve here will sometimes
06:14kind of sag a little bit, like it's getting sleepy.
06:17Oh, okay.
06:18Yeah, I think maybe if it's starting to kind of like more of a, it's coming this way,
06:23sometimes you can just put a pin right here.
06:25Like almost like that.
06:26Oh, okay.
06:27Hair is such an individual thing for so many people.
06:35As a wig maker, I was prepared for it in a way that a lot of people I don't think
06:38are.
06:39I thought it would make it easier, and it probably did, but it still did affect me.
06:43It was still pretty emotional.
06:44I don't think there's any way around that.
06:46It's visceral.
06:49In this industry, there's a lot of focus on how you look and what you can do for others.
06:55It takes a lot of courage, a lot of courage and a lot of strength to accept help.
06:59That was the thing that was the most striking to me was that she was willing to accept help.
07:03It was really amazing to see how our entire community came together to support her.
07:08My body has done what it's going to do, and I have done what I can to get rid of
07:13it,
07:13and all I can do is live my life well and keep moving forward.
07:17Gladys!
07:30JET
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