- 5 weeks ago
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00:05The summer of 1998, I was an 11-year-old on a school trip to River Denon on the banks
00:11of Loch Lomond.
00:12After a morning standing in the rain being mauled by midges, we were delighted when our teacher told us that
00:18a television had been sourced to watch the opening game of the World Cup.
00:25There are large groups of supporters milling around outside the stadium. They're going to be let in in the next
00:30half an hour or so, and it's a wonderful atmosphere.
00:34Life was exciting. Football was exciting. Ronaldo, Rivaldo, Roberto Carlos, Cafu. Brazil were good, but maybe Scotland could get something.
00:44We'd settle for a draw against Brazil, beat Norway, beat Morocco, and then anything was possible.
00:50Scotland are out of the World Cup. They were beaten 3-0 by Morocco.
00:55Two defeats and a draw. Home time. Scotland were out, but we were only a living.
01:01We'd see Scotland at plenty more World Cups. This was just the beginning.
01:19It's taken 28 years for Scotland to return to the World Cup. I should be buzzing, but something doesn't feel
01:25right. In those 28 years, I worry that the beautiful game I fell in love with has lost some of
01:30its heart.
01:31I want to reaffirm my faith in football and see if the game still has a soul beneath the stories
01:37of excessive greed and shady dealings.
01:41Some tunnel walk, that.
01:42But before we get to all that, I want to reflect on some childhood football memories with my old pal.
01:47Super John McGinn.
01:50How's it going, bro?
01:51How are we?
01:51Welcome home, man.
01:53And he also happens to be a Premier League star and Scotland's vice-captain.
01:57Would you have a name for this? I would just call it the wee gravel park.
02:00Aye, the wee gravel pitch. But this is an away game for me, because I'd come across a bridge.
02:04I'm representing Park Call. Aye.
02:06No, this is like a neutral venue, isn't it?
02:08Aye, disputed territory.
02:10A few of my cousins stay there. We used to meet. This was the middle point.
02:14So when's the last time you played on Red Ash?
02:17Red Ash, the last time for the school team.
02:20It seemed a lot bigger when you were reading it.
02:22Didn't they normally have the nets up when we were here?
02:23No, that's new. I think that's just been a...
02:25That's refreshing.
02:26...a hero of a da in there that came out and put nets on.
02:28That's for the BBC.
02:29We used to play, me and T-Bomb. Aye.
02:31Used to come here and play longies. I remember summer holidays, you would.
02:35You'd just leave the house in the morning. Aye.
02:37Somebody would bring a ball and you would just go and sit in a park.
02:39Aye, we'd play all day. Cuppy.
02:42So, explain Cuppy.
02:44Because everybody gets quite contentious that, you know?
02:46Aye.
02:46Everybody's got different names for these games.
02:48Well, some people...
02:48My mates, when I played at St Wernwood, call it World Cuppy.
02:51So you've got the keeper in goal.
02:53It could be three people playing, thirteen people playing.
02:57And if you score, stand behind the goal.
02:59They're actually through to the next room.
03:00Aye.
03:01So then people get left out.
03:03So if you get put out, you'd be at the side.
03:04But the keeper would be the ref. Aye.
03:06I was the fat guy with an ice pole at the side.
03:08So, any bits of your game now, as a pro, you credit to playing Cuppy in games like that?
03:12Aye, I think when I learned how to compete against older players and stronger players,
03:17that was on these pitches.
03:18And I think it's so valuable to places like this.
03:21You learn the basics of the game here, but also wee tricks that you can evade the older, stronger guys.
03:26You can adapt.
03:27So this is where you served your apprenticeship, basically?
03:29Aye, aye.
03:29And the older they got, the more physical they got.
03:31So I think it did help me be rough and ready.
03:35If there's about fifteen going for the one more, that's probably what you'll have to use your arse.
03:39Aye, aye.
03:39I just took it to the corner.
03:41Didn't let Andy scorn.
03:42Aye, you see that today.
03:43We see it watching you today.
03:44Aye.
03:44So you credit a bit of that.
03:45That's good to know.
03:46When you're back visiting your family, you drive by or walk by, do you ever see groups of kids playing?
03:51No, it's quite sad, actually.
03:53Even now, it's a school holiday today.
03:55You'd normally see kids out and about, but there's too many distractions, PlayStation, Xbox.
04:00But maybe one day it'll go full circle.
04:02Aye, aye.
04:03We'll have to go and get something to eat since within Clivebank.
04:05Thanks, I'll see you.
04:06Potato scorn.
04:06Only one place to go.
04:17Andrea, who's in here more often?
04:18Me or John?
04:19Eh, you and Kendall.
04:21I'm closer as well.
04:22That's not acceptable, is it?
04:22Reflected in the physique.
04:24What do you order when you come in?
04:25What's the health?
04:25Baked potatoes?
04:26Oh, full breakfast.
04:28My potato scorn.
04:29Extra potatoes scorn.
04:33Is going to the World Cup, is that the biggest moment in your career?
04:38Aye.
04:38That's number one.
04:39And I never actually genuinely thought it was possible.
04:42We, the country needed that.
04:44You see the lift that gave everybody a bit emotional that night.
04:46Aye, aye.
04:47That night we could see it with Robbo at full time, just the relief.
04:50Because you're thinking the next World Cup, I'm 35, 36.
04:54We're never playing in a World Cup.
04:55So that's in your head, that's ringing in your head.
04:58But that feeling of walking out in Boston, representing Scotland at a World Cup, man, it'll just be incredible.
05:05What's the first World Cup you remember?
05:072002.
05:08I think that was the one, the Ronaldinho free kick over Seaman.
05:12Typical Scottish answer.
05:13Aye, aye.
05:13Remember the game that England got put out?
05:15Aye, who won it that year though?
05:17I can't remember that.
05:17Brazil.
05:17Brazil won it.
05:18That was the team that had Ronaldo, Ronaldinho, Rivaldo up front.
05:22Carlos, Cafu.
05:23Aye.
05:23Left and right back.
05:24Was there not a couple of tournaments as well we watched in school?
05:28I was going to say, so 2002 was South Korea and Japan, so it was quite early games.
05:34Aye, I think I remember that.
05:34And your mum was one of the teachers that was like, now we're here to work.
05:37Has he done not let you watch it?
05:40No.
05:41It is.
05:41Andy boy, do you want to tell you?
05:44He's still signing on.
05:45Good to see you mate.
05:47As long as you're not still signing on Andy.
05:50Don't want to get you in the border.
05:52I've not been in since it's been dinner.
05:54Are you excited for the World Cup Andy?
05:56I cannae wait.
05:57Cannae wait.
05:58Because you'll remember, obviously, in 1998, Scotland World Cup.
06:01What do you think has changed since then?
06:03Money.
06:04Money has changed since then.
06:05A big, big time really.
06:07The ticket price he's switching to that.
06:09Putting him on the spot.
06:10Call it cheaper.
06:12Really, it's too expensive.
06:15Even what I don't like is train tickets to even get to the ground.
06:19I think the train's normally $12 from Boston to the stadium.
06:24And it's $100 for a fan.
06:25It's just ridiculous.
06:26It's too expensive for a lot of people to come.
06:30Good to see you.
06:31See you soon.
06:33You're the best guys, eh?
06:34Cheers.
06:34Would you see fans' point of view that they're maybe getting cut out of the game a wee bit?
06:38FIFA, that just seems extreme greed.
06:40And even they're officially reselling tickets.
06:44I've never heard that in my life.
06:45I do find it sad because people live for Scotland, the Scotland national team.
06:49That's people's life, just to watch Scotland.
06:52But it's those guys you want to see in the stands.
06:54They deserve to be there as much as we do.
06:57They've put in the hard yards to earn that ticket at a reasonable price.
07:01I think they need to be shown more respect for the governing bodies because that's the lifeblood of the game.
07:07Because if FIFA carry on the way it is, it's going to get to a stage where maybe they'll go
07:12too far.
07:12But football with fans is nothing, is the famous quote.
07:16But once they go too far, people will be disillusioned that they just won't come back.
07:20And then they'll have their tail between their legs, definitely.
07:22Aye.
07:23That's powerful words, man.
07:24Good hearing it coming for you as well.
07:26So, John, it's been a pleasure.
07:30Stay after the fry-ups, man.
07:31Eat healthy.
07:32Big World Cup coming up.
07:34You're buying.
07:34Few beat Brazil.
07:35I'm bringing you here for a cool baby breakfast.
07:38That's a deal.
07:39FIFA's brutal ticket resale market and train rides to games which cost more than a flight to Mallorca.
07:44I'm not sure it was like this in 98.
07:47I want to see if the more wholesome, purer side of football still exists.
07:51I looked at my passport, got some shorts and new trainers,
07:54and headed to a country which lives and breathes football arguably like no other.
08:03Brazil, with five World Cup wins, are still the most successful nation in football history.
08:09For anyone of my generation, Brazil are synonymous with exciting, free-flowing football
08:14and players who looked like they were in their happy place when they had a ball at their feet.
08:19Players who made you want to find a ball and go on to the park and play.
08:22Pretty much anyone who went on a package holiday in the 90s or early noughties
08:28has owned a fake Brazil strip.
08:30Brazil take many of us back to a world where football was entertaining, exciting
08:35and an escape for both those who play and those who support.
08:52I arrived in Rio and, to start my journey, I want to visit the birthplace of some of the best
08:57footballers in the world, the favelas.
09:01These dense neighbourhoods built around and above some of Brazil's wealthiest cities created talents like Ronaldo, Rivaldo, Romario and Cafu.
09:11I wanted to see them for myself, but you can't just bounce up there with Google maps on your phone
09:16and a gormous expression on your face.
09:18Liz, first of all, thanks very much for being my guide today.
09:21No problem.
09:23You said that I need a guide, so why is that?
09:26Because of stereotypes, people only focus on violence or poverty, so if you are with a local guide, a person
09:34that lives there,
09:35you can actually really get to know our culture, our art, the positive things in our lives.
09:42When you said about the stereotypes, we associate favelas maybe with gang violence and then football players, but there is
09:50a massive in-between.
09:52Yeah, it's very frustrating because it's a normal community, we go to school, we go to work.
09:57So there are schools inside the favelas?
09:59Yeah, but unfortunately not as many. So the NGOs, there are a lot of institutions and the founders of those
10:07institutions are from the favelas.
10:09So that would be people who have done quite well and they wanted to help where they came from?
10:13Exactly, they are just like myself. I had a scholarship, then I went abroad because of this scholarship.
10:21Now I teach English to the kids, we always give it back because we know that's the only way to
10:26develop our favelas.
10:28That's amazing, that's brilliant. It's a kind of unwritten rule that you should come back and help the next generation.
10:34Yeah, that's the only way, Kevin.
10:35No, that's the right way, that's beautiful, it's lovely.
10:38We help each other out for the basic, right? It's our right, actually.
10:42Yeah, I'm excited to get up. How do we get up there, like, logistically?
10:46We can get a mototaxi.
10:48A what?
10:49We ride a motorcycle.
10:54Nice ride, mate. Are you going to drive crazy?
10:57Or safe?
10:58The Regi play R.I.P.
11:00I mean, that's a good sign, innit?
11:02See you up there, Liz.
11:15We're riding up into the Cantigallo favela that overlooks the Copacabana and Ipanema beaches.
11:28Good man.
11:31First impression of the favela is a lot going on, a lot of activity.
11:35Feels alive, atmosphere's good.
11:38Before we're allowed access, we needed permission from a few senior community figures.
11:43Are we waiting to see if we're allowed in? Waiting for clearance?
11:47Your name's not on the door? You're not getting in?
11:49Hopefully we get in.
11:50I'm just taking the opportunity to look even more at a tourist by putting on some cream,
11:55in case my mum's watching.
11:57Somebody's giving us the thumbs up, man.
12:00All good? Good to go?
12:04Liz is taking me to meet Daniel, who grew up in the favela, joined a footballing project
12:09and went on to become a two-time world champion at beach football.
12:14He's now come back to his community to set up a project of his own.
12:19That's pretty special, innit? What of you?
12:21Is this Daniel and his kids?
12:23Yeah.
12:23We're doing this wrong.
12:44Nice to meet you, man.
12:50I want you to make sure they know that I'm not a scout, and I mean, I don't want them
12:54getting excited.
12:55Tell them I'm just a comedian, just a clown from Glasgow.
12:57You've probably got a better eye than me.
13:02Daniel, I know you grew up here, and then you went away playing FIFA beach football.
13:07You won two World Cups.
13:09Yeah.
13:09And then you came back and you set up this project for the kids here.
13:12Well, Kevin, we started in the pandemic.
13:16We've had new developments in the project, right?
13:19Very sense.
13:21We started with football.
13:23We also have other types.
13:25What do you tell the kids, then, to obviously focus on training and working hard, but do you
13:31put emphasis on enjoying the game?
13:33The order is the opposite.
13:35First, I say that they enjoy the training, so that they like to do hard work.
13:41What they like more about it is fun, but it's a serious fun.
13:46Serious fun?
13:46Serious fun.
13:47I'm going to steal that, man.
13:49That's what we need to get back in, in Scotland.
13:51We need to get kids enjoying just playing with their friends.
13:55Daniel, you're an inspiration, mate.
13:56You thought this project was good to me.
13:59I'm going to come back and start my own project and give something back to your favela.
14:04Exactly.
14:06That gives me hope for the world.
14:09That's total respect, man.
14:18I'm going to get sacked.
14:19Sorry, boss.
14:23Let's go.
14:24Let's go.
14:26Let's go.
14:26Let's go.
14:27Let's go.
14:27Let's go.
14:27Left and right.
14:28Left and right.
14:29Good.
14:31I'm going to steal his job.
14:32I don't know why he's laughing.
14:33Hey, guys.
14:33The ball is on the ground.
14:34Keep the intensity.
14:36Keep the intensity.
14:40Keep the intensity.
14:50We have the ability to have a little bit of a heart.
14:56And we already have this natural talent.
14:58We already have the game.
14:59We have this good way to play.
15:03And they just play here for hours.
15:05Do the neighbors ever complain?
15:07Of course.
15:07Because when it's full of adults, they play on the ground.
15:11They play on the wall.
15:13They shoot on the window.
15:14They shoot on the door.
15:15Because when I was a kid in Scotland, a lot of the streets had signs that say no, no
15:20football, no ball games.
15:21It's because of these no ball game signs in the neighbors.
15:23That's why I never made it as a professional football player.
15:27And the fact that I'm shite.
15:31And just to show how shite I was, I found a bib and gave a master class in Scottish defending.
15:36What was your name?
15:37Kelvin.
15:37Kelvin.
15:38Kevin.
15:39Kelvin, Kelvin.
15:41Hello, Kevin.
15:42Kevin, Kel.
15:43Nothing's getting past.
15:45What?
15:46You're working.
15:50Come on, Solana.
15:51Come on, come on!
15:52Come on, come on!
15:54Come on!
15:55That's why I'm telling you.
16:09A bit of PTSD for school there.
16:11Everybody can take a picture at the big guy at the back.
16:14But if the cameras weren't here, I'm sure there would have been a slide tackle or two.
16:19The big man, he was trying all sorts of FIFA, R2, L2 combos.
16:23Did you see the man who put it right over me?
16:28Of course it's on camera.
16:31Incredible. The place is full of soul.
16:34It reminds you of what life is supposed to be.
16:38Family, connection, kids playing in the park.
16:41It reminds me of happier times growing up.
16:43And just getting a ball playing with your nets.
16:45So the fact that it's alive here in Brazil, it's incredible.
16:50You see how happy you look, just roasting somebody.
16:52It's the Brazilian spirit in it.
16:54Get a ball, let me embarrass somebody.
16:56And today that happened to be me.
16:58But I need to go and find a shower somewhere.
17:00I need to go and jump in, down to the Copagabana beach and jump in.
17:21Very impressive.
17:23Very impressive.
17:23Very impressive.
17:26Very impressive.
17:35Seeing Daniel and his project and what he's done.
17:39And I meant that when I said it to him.
17:41It is inspiring.
17:44A lot of good people exist in the world.
17:46And maybe they don't get enough air time.
17:50Everybody talks a good game.
17:51But remember where you're from.
17:54Everybody's Jenny from the block until it comes to getting it done.
18:01Some of my touches were alright.
18:03So maybe it's infectious.
18:05Maybe I'm starting to channel a bit in on Brazilian.
18:09But it was a proud day to be a football fan.
18:14And quite an uplifting experience to be honest.
18:16The whole thing.
18:19And that's kind of how I spent my childhood.
18:21Me and my mates.
18:22We would just hear the ball.
18:24And a field.
18:25Just went and just played.
18:27Sunrise till sunset.
18:28Summer holidays.
18:30Excited.
18:32So aye.
18:32I felt as if that was a win for football the whole day.
18:48See if I try anything skillful a camera gets broke.
18:51But they make it look natural.
18:53Daniel's project reminded me of the deep community connections
18:56football inspires from generation to generation.
19:01Tamo junto.
19:03What does that mean?
19:04Is he saying I'm shite?
19:06Tamo junto.
19:07We are together.
19:07We are together.
19:12As the sun set on Ipanema beach,
19:14my time in Rio had come to an end.
19:17In my search for the beautiful game
19:19I head away from the birthplace of legendary players
19:22and into a whole new world of fan culture.
19:28I loved the Saturday morning routine.
19:31Eating a fry up, watching Gazetta Football Italia
19:33or Football Focus.
19:35As always we start with football
19:37and Football Focus with Bob Wilson.
19:39Before walking round to the bookies with my dad
19:41he'd put his bets on and I'd stand outside waiting
19:44excited about the afternoon's game.
19:46We'd get on the supporters bus and head off to Celtic Park.
19:49The scale of the crowds, the turnstiles clicking,
19:52the foul and abusive and often poetic language.
19:55The smell of Bovril and cigarette smoke.
19:57A hard sell to the Instagram generation.
19:59But this was the football that I fell in love with.
20:02But things are changing.
20:06As football grows ever more distant from the communities that built it,
20:10the ultras movement has grown in resistance.
20:14Highly organised, often controversial,
20:17groups of supporters have gained traction across the world.
20:21Their flags, drums, chants and protests
20:24stand in direct opposition of astronomical ticket prices,
20:28state owned clubs, billion dollar TV contracts
20:31with ridiculous kick off times and half and half scarves.
20:38In Brazil, they're called Torcidas.
20:42From Rio, I travelled to Sao Paulo.
20:45Where I've managed to gain access to the Independencia Torcida.
20:49These Sao Paulo ultras have never allowed TV crews into their world before.
20:55Marcos and Mateus would be my guides.
21:00A lot of people view ultras' culture in Barabrava as in Torcidas.
21:06They view it as a negative thing.
21:09There's violence. Is that the case in Brazil?
21:11Well, I must say, Brazil is a violent country,
21:14so the torcidas are like a reflex of this violence.
21:20So there's violence, yeah, we cannot deny.
21:22But there's not more violence inside a torcida than outside, you know?
21:27The media sometimes just show the wrong side, you know?
21:30They don't realise that there's a lot of social work,
21:33so we give food for homeless people.
21:36We can do a lot of social work,
21:38but if we fight it just one time, oh, yeah.
21:44But the violence makes the headlines, sadly.
21:47Yeah, exactly.
21:48Tell me about the Brazil national team.
21:51Any of the big legends played for Sao Paulo?
21:53Cafu, for example.
21:55He was the captain.
21:58Cafu is a legend in Brazil and in Sao Paulo
22:00because he was born in a very, very poor neighbourhood.
22:04And in the end, when he raised the trophy,
22:08he rolled down the name of his neighbourhood in the jersey,
22:13and he's always been a Sao Paulo player.
22:16So somebody told me the game today is a home game,
22:19but you have to play somewhere else?
22:21Yeah, Sao Paulo has a contract with a concert company.
22:26In one way it makes sense because the club makes money,
22:30but in another way the stadium is there for football,
22:33not for concerts.
22:34So a football stadium should be for football.
22:36Yeah, exactly.
22:37Especially during the season.
22:38Yeah, exactly.
22:39And we have to travel like three hours sometimes because of this.
22:43Is there anything organised for the game tonight?
22:45Yes, yes, we're very excited.
22:47Is it going to be mental?
22:49Always mental.
22:50Our last game against Vasco in here,
22:52it was a dangerous game.
22:54What happened against Vasco?
22:56They attacked us.
22:58They attacked the buses.
22:59They shot the buses.
23:00Yeah, shot the buses.
23:00Shot the buses.
23:02Can't happen.
23:03What's the protocol when the buses are under file?
23:07First you don't get shot, the first step.
23:08Don't get shot?
23:09I might write that down.
23:11Good advice.
23:12It's a shame the game's been moved to a different stadium,
23:17but it's turned a home game into an away game.
23:19So I'm excited.
23:20I'm looking forward to getting on the bus.
23:22I need to learn some of the songs.
23:23I need to change this t-shirt.
23:25They're going to get me a jersey.
23:26So I am.
23:27I'm well up for the day ahead.
23:31Before getting on the bus to the game,
23:33Matthias and Marcos took me to the Independencia HQ.
23:39Nice to meet you.
23:39It's a big video in our casa.
23:41You are very welcome in our house.
23:43Aye, aye.
23:43I need to get a t-shirt.
23:48Back in a minute, mate.
23:49Yeah.
23:50In here.
23:54How's that?
23:55Perfect.
23:56All good?
23:56I think so.
23:58I just pulled the mic off with the tape.
24:00I just waxed my chest, man.
24:02It's fucking weird.
24:04And I'm prompt to a chest wax.
24:06A Brazilian?
24:07I just gave myself a Brazilian.
24:10Looking sharp, we made our way to the bus.
24:14But there was one thing I needed to pick up before we left.
24:17Can I go on a supporters bus without cans?
24:19It's just rude, innit?
24:21Football without cans is nothing.
24:23You are very welcome here.
24:27Nice one.
24:27I thought I'd bring some beers.
24:31Make sure I don't steal anybody's seat.
24:33Yes, sure.
24:34Like the supporters buses back home, the journey was a super chilled affair.
24:44I mean, it's only like five minutes into the journey.
24:47And it's pretty.
24:48I don't know if they can sustain this the whole way to the game, bro.
24:51Hopefully.
24:53A lively bunch.
24:55And it smells pretty funky, innit?
25:01As the new guy, I decided that I should probably keep my head down, sit near the front and maybe
25:05even stick on an audio book.
25:18Hey, growing up, going obviously to the Celtic games, none of it is on supporters buses.
25:22The parallels are, it's the same characters, innit?
25:25The guy that's been drinking way too early.
25:27The guy like, why did you not just sell his ticket?
25:30Like surely he would have failed a late fitness test.
25:34Oh ho ho ho!
25:40Zoho ho!
25:44Zoho ho ho!
25:45Zoho ho ho.
25:50Somebody must have phoned in that there is a good time being had on the bus.
25:55All units respond but I don't know if they are coming on the bus?
26:01Sounds like maybe the police are just a bit bored on a Saturday night
26:06As we approached the stadium
26:08we were met with an incredibly warm welcome
26:15I walked down to the ground
26:17feeling like Danny Dyer back in his cable television days
26:20Playing it cool
26:24nothing was going to faze me
26:29That was a particularly loud firework wasn't it?
26:34Before the game the boys took me up into the crowd to try a local delicacy
26:40There's a tail that says that this is cat meat
26:44Of course it's a lie
26:46Somebody else please eat one of these because I don't want to be the only guy
26:50Remember that time in Brazil, Big Kev ate a cat
26:55The game was about to start but we're being held outside unable to get in
27:00It sounds like the game's actually started
27:02There's always a bit of a queue at home at this stage in the game but I've never seen as
27:07many people
27:11He's still got the atmosphere getting a bit hostile because everybody's having to wait outside so
27:16A romantic date, he's not too bothered of missing the game is he?
27:21There's a bit much in it
27:23It's a family show bro
27:39Despite the three hour journey followed by a half hour wait to get in
27:43The stadium was an explosion of colour drums and singing
27:47Everything football loses when you start charging people a grander ticket
27:59This was proper football support
28:02Raw, intense and passionate
28:09I loved every second
28:13And it was topped off by Sao Paulo scoring a late winner
28:33Absolutely delighted with that man
28:35What a night out
28:36I've never shoot my tail feather as much
28:39But I felt like it was good dancing
28:40I should have wore a sports bra
28:42I never knew there was going to be as much jumping
28:45But the samba, I've got tinnitus man
28:47The samba's drums, there's only so much samba you can take
28:52That was absolutely class
28:55Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo
28:59In the face of all that's wrong with football
29:01Groups like the Independencia show that raw passion for the beautiful game still exists
29:09Despite being forced to play their games hours away from their home stadium
29:13They still show up and loudly get behind their team
29:16And that's the way it should be
29:19In a lot of ways I found the beautiful game through the Independencia torcida
29:24I'd love to experience the atmosphere at their home ground
29:27Sadly, football stadiums being repurposed by big corporations is becoming more common across Brazil
29:36At Pekai Ambu, the former home of Corinthians
29:39I met journalist Jukka Kufori to show me
29:42First of all, where is this?
29:44For many years, it was the stadium of the capital of Sao Paulo
29:52But from a long time ago, it was privatized
29:55It was privatized and it turned out a lot more music play than football, unfortunately
30:03So is this what's happening here?
30:05Yes, it's terrible
30:07So who did you see personally? Who have you seen play here?
30:11I saw Pelé several times here
30:15I don't know how many times I saw Pelé here
30:20No, I understand why you're sad
30:24It's sad for me
30:25To walk in, feel the history
30:27And then see the modern corporate branding
30:30In your own words, how would you explain
30:33What football means to Brazil and Brazilian culture
30:36Now, there is a particularity
30:40That is difficult to convince, especially foreigners, that this is true
30:47Brazil is not the country of football
30:49Brazil has never been the country of football
30:52Brazil is the country of beautiful game
30:57Brazil has been the country of football
31:04It will not be repeated here, nor in other places
31:08Sounds like another nail in the coffin, getting drilled in
31:13Yes
31:14That's how I see your face react every time you hear a drill
31:19You fit, but
31:21Because your blood pressure is rising too high
31:24You're getting too angry, man
31:25But a good angry
31:27So football, it's in Brazil's DNA
31:30Yes, completely
31:31And then, do you still love the game?
31:34I love the game
31:35I love the game
31:37Why not?
31:39Juker
31:40A pleasure
31:43Football may be in Brazil's DNA
31:45And maybe that DNA is up for sale
31:47It's a far cry from how football came to Brazil in the first place
31:50I made a pit stop to visit this guy
31:53This is Thomas Donoho
31:55A textile worker from Busby, just outside Glasgow
31:58You might wonder, why has he got a massive statue next to Burger King in a small neighbourhood called Bangu
32:04In 1894, Thomas set sail from Southampton and arrived in Bangu to work in a cotton mill
32:10He brought a ball with him
32:12And in April that year, he held what was thought to be the first ever game of football in Brazil
32:17I don't know how many Brazilians actually know that story
32:21That Scotland introduced them to football
32:23Like Pele, Romario, Ronaldo
32:25Never heard a thank you
32:26Never
32:27When they're lifting the World Cup
32:29A wee kiss and a wee cheers Scotland
32:31Cheers boys
32:32That would've been nice
32:34And then people are just passing the statue
32:36It'd be nice if they knew who the guy actually was
32:38But I mean it is just a big guy outside the shopping centre
32:40To a lot of them
32:41Maybe they just use it as a landmark
32:43For when they've got a taxi
32:44Oh I'm just standing beside the big guy
32:47Don't know if we regret introducing football to Brazil
32:50Maybe we should've kept it to ourselves a bit longer
32:53I mean, get a longer head start
32:55Maybe introduce Brazil to like
32:57Snooker, rugby, curling or something like that
33:01So, aye, maybe this is the birthplace of the beautiful game
33:06Well done, big time Donahoe
33:12I'm chuffed that Brazilian football was the result of a fellow Scotsman
33:16Back to my journey to reaffirm my love of football
33:19And I'd been told of a subculture totally free from the greed and politics of the modern professional game
33:25To find it, I had to travel to Osasco
33:28On the outskirts of Sao Paulo
33:29For a game of Várzea
33:31Opa, hey, heaven
33:34Nice to meet you
33:35Nice meeting you
33:36A lifelong supporter and coach
33:39Leo is going to give me the lowdown on Várzea
33:41Kind of like the Brazilian equivalent of Sunday League football
33:44But with less hungover dads and more samba drums
33:48Várzea is Sao Paulo's, not only Sao Paulo
33:50But it's Brazilian amateur football
33:52And you have different levels too
33:55So you have games where, you know
33:57Just you make your team with your friends or people from work
34:00And you get times in the city fields and play against other teams
34:04But you also have leagues and cups like this one
34:07Copa do Buzão
34:08Which is very organized
34:09That the game today is a semi-final
34:11Today is a semi-final of Copa do Buzão
34:14Copa do?
34:15Buzão, the bus cup
34:16The bus cup
34:17The bus cup
34:17As in a bus?
34:18Yeah, because the winner of this championship gets a bus
34:22That's quite high stakes man, a bus
34:24Yeah
34:24I'd love to win a bus
34:25And then whoever wins, do the whole team get to lift up the bus?
34:34So I've seen we've got the red ash pitches at home, the duck pitches
34:38But I noticed that in Brazil we've drove past a few pitches
34:43That you see people playing, but it must take a lot of different skills to play on some of these
34:48offices
34:48Yeah, the old guys at Warza, they blame this change, this shift in pitches
34:54For the disaster of Brazilian national team
34:58Because they say that when you play at a dirt pitch, you develop certain skills and balance
35:03And you know how to improvise better
35:06Now it's becoming more and more common to have those flat pitches without any holes or anything
35:11So people blame the facilities got too good
35:13Yeah
35:14And then the football got worse
35:16Yeah
35:16So stopped funding football, basically
35:19Yeah
35:20That's a hot take man
35:22Defund football
35:23Yeah, exactly
35:24There's actually a famous coach in Brazil
35:26He advocated for the academies to have dirt pitches back on
35:31I think in Palmeiras they do
35:33Right, so somebody's actually followed through on the suggestion
35:36If I'm not mistaken
35:37Make football shite again
35:39Yeah
35:43This is like the thing that makes Warza beautiful to me
35:46It's a free place, it's free
35:48As stadiums become more difficult for people who are poor to get in
35:52Warza, anything goes
35:54You can simply go to the beach of your neighborhood and watch a good game
36:00Drink a couple of beers with your friends
36:03And shoot off pyros and ha ha ha
36:15Before kick-off, Leo had organized for me to get in the dressing room of the lads for the pre
36:20-match team talk
36:21Chegou the most important
36:25A gente mantém no nÃvel do primeiro jogo até hoje
36:28E a gente sabe a importância desse jogo para a gente hoje
36:32A gente sabe a importância aqui para o Leopolis, mano
36:35Para o Leopolis e sim para a comunidade
36:37Vai ser o maior final inédito que vocês possam imaginar
36:40Again, good luck for the game, man
36:42Good luck, work hard, lads
36:43Thank you with the bus
36:46Come on
36:46Come on
36:47Come on
36:48Hot
36:53That was very hot
36:54They must be dehydrated, man
36:56They're in that dressing room
36:57Packed in together
36:58Everybody's sweating
36:59Like that
37:00Disgusting
37:01You don't pay your license fee
37:02You see that?
37:08Soon the teams were out
37:09And we were almost ready for kick-off
37:11Come on
37:18Me, personally
37:19I would like to see some
37:21Brazilian-style football
37:22And I'd like to see the ugly side of Brazilian football
37:24A couple of
37:2650-50 challenges would be nice
37:28If all the things I'm going to wear in this weather
37:30I don't know if I would pick a dinosaur onesie
37:32Or man there
37:47After the whistle
37:48It wasn't long before there were fireworks both off
37:52And on the pitch
38:02You need to get a lid on this
38:03You want the B.A.R. from us?
38:07We've got it on camera
38:12I feel as if maybe something else happened over the weekend
38:15And she's
38:16Rejecting
38:17Yeah
38:18doubleandaag
38:19bod olha
38:31go
38:32stay
38:32one
38:39I
38:39think my initial
38:41idea
38:41of what virtually I was going to be with
38:43Renault I
38:44thought it was Sunday
38:45look we're going to come here
38:46Quite a chilled wee day. A few dog walkers, suddenly there's supporters busses arriving with fireworks going off, pyro drums.
38:54You get decent crowds at the junior football at home in Scotland, but I've never seen it fully embraced the
38:58actual fan culture like that.
39:01So, aye, Varsia. Brand new to me, but I'm a fan.
39:07After the game, Leo took me to see another side of Varsia, a set of community pitches on the outskirts
39:14of Sao Paulo.
39:15It all felt eerily remote.
39:18Leo, I feel as if I'm about to get whacked, so this is your old pitch, this is where you
39:23played.
39:24Exactly. I come here every Saturday morning since, I don't know, 2011 or so.
39:30And what's happened?
39:31Well, it was demolished. They're going to create a park here.
39:36It's all going to change and it's going to be a little more posh and rich people.
39:41Gentrification, I believe is the term. Everybody with their matcha lattes and try to make it more Instagrammable.
39:47Yeah, yeah. And that's such a sad thing because I've always dreamt that my kid would come to these pitches
39:55and see those pitches and play where I've played and be part of this culture.
40:01But she won't see it. You know, she won't be a part of it because it's going to be very
40:06different, very different.
40:07No, it definitely takes me back to my own kind of childhood. These were the pitches that we had where
40:13I grew up in Scotland. The red ash, the memories are in there.
40:17And Varsia, maybe the football is not necessarily what I would describe as beautiful, but to you it's a beautiful
40:22game.
40:22It's the most beautiful game. It's our game. It's part of our culture and who we are. This is part
40:28of who I am. It's not a game. This is life.
40:32You know, this is my city. This is where I grew up, where I've learned to love football more than
40:38with professional football.
40:40And it's just heartbreaking to see it all go away.
40:45I feel bad for Leo when he said that the memories are going to be gone and you've only got
40:50the physical space rather than actually seeing the old goalposts and all that.
40:55So, aye, we need these spaces and life does go on, but aye, if you just take it away, if
41:01you just sell everything, you know what I mean?
41:04And where does that leave us?
41:12My time in Brazil was coming to an end, but it would be a shame to come all this way
41:16to make a documentary about football and not at least try to meet one of the legendary players.
41:21So we put out the call, Ronaldinho came back. I think he wanted more money after BBC than Donald Trump
41:28did.
41:30And then we were just about to leave and we got a call saying that Cafu has arrived back in
41:36Brazil and basically he's up for talking to me.
41:39So we're driving over to Cafu's house. He's mad, isn't it? I'm just going to meet Cafu.
42:02Cafu.
42:03Hello.
42:05Kevin.
42:06Good morning.
42:07Good morning.
42:08It's a pleasure.
42:10First time in Brazil?
42:11First time ever. Excited. First time ever in a meeting.
42:13You?
42:15Thank you very much.
42:16Wow.
42:17Cafu is the most capped Brazilian player of all time, the only player in history to
42:21have played in three consecutive World Cup finals, two of which Brazil won.
42:25Basically, the guy's a legend.
42:27Nice spread.
42:29Black coffee?
42:29Black coffee.
42:31Salute.
42:32Bom dia.
42:32Bom dia.
42:34There we go.
42:36When I was growing up in the World Cup, to me it meant watching Brazil with the famous
42:41yellow, and everybody, my age group anyway, we always had Brazil strips.
42:46That was me on holiday, 1998.
42:51Wow.
42:53Handsome kid, eh?
42:55Yes.
42:56As a kid, I think everybody was happy for Brazil to have won it in 2002.
43:02But what made it more special was when you had the t-shirt with the, is it Jardim Arena?
43:08Jardim Arena.
43:10It's the place where I was born.
43:11100% Jardim Arena.
43:12Yeah, yeah, yeah.
43:13It's the neighborhood where I was born, where I grew up, where I passed my childhood.
43:16The street taught me everything that I have.
43:18So, at that time, to make a 100% homage to Jardim Arena was to show them that even in
43:24the
43:24place where I was, I was thinking about them.
43:26Wow.
43:27I'm getting goosebumps.
43:28I read somewhere about Pele in 1950, when Brazil lost the World Cup.
43:34Pele said he'd seen how upset his dad was, and he promised his dad, right there, he said
43:39I'm going to win you a World Cup.
43:41Because everything we do, especially when we came from the periphery, we do it by our
43:45parents.
43:47They suffered, they worked, they dedicated themselves so that they could educate us and
43:53contribute to everything that your father and your mother did for you.
43:56Even so, I think that we can't contribute enough to everything that they did for us.
44:00What is it like to lift the World Cup?
44:18Wow, he's actually got a World Cup.
44:27No.
44:27Is that...
44:28No.
44:29No way.
44:31I'm going to show you what the feeling is.
44:33Does everybody get...
44:34Oh.
44:37And I still got from Pelé's hand.
44:40Few people went to a World Cup.
44:43Few people won a World Cup.
44:46Few people won a World Cup.
44:47Few people won a World Cup.
44:49And only one won three finales of World Cup.
44:52And those guys know my mate.
44:55Yes, man.
44:56A sensation, oh.
45:00Wow.
45:02Wow.
45:04So this...
45:05Are you serious?
45:06I don't feel as if I deserve it, man.
45:08No problem.
45:08Eh?
45:09Wow.
45:09I don't want to drop it and smash the tiles.
45:12Your wife will be annoyed if I smash the tiles.
45:16Wow, man.
45:17It's impressive, right?
45:18A kiss?
45:19Yes.
45:21It's impressive, right?
45:22I can score a lot.
45:24Then I would get 100% Clyde Bank.
45:26Clyde Bank, yes.
45:29There we go.
45:30Wow.
45:30Oh, um campo de futebol, hein?
45:33I'm going to play one game.
45:34The first one to score three goals wins the World Cup.
45:38Scotland-Brazil.
45:40Really?
45:41Okay.
45:43Let's go.
45:44Come on!
45:48Go, Laos.
45:49Go, he was back.
45:49Go, Casimiro.
45:52Go, Casimiro.
45:52Go, Casimiro.
45:53Go, Raphinha.
45:54Javine Júnior.
45:55Javine Júnior.
45:56Raphinha.
45:56Go.
45:571-0.
45:59Go.
46:02Yes! Big London Dykes there!
46:061-1
46:071-1
46:172-1
46:18Super John McGann from midfield
46:20Brazil?
46:24Between the games and after training, what happened?
46:27Any parties?
46:29Ah, claro!
46:30Nos dias de folga, era festa, uma cervejinha, um vinhozinho, sem sombra de dúvida.
46:37É normal.
46:39Who were the big booze bags?
46:41You?
46:42You?
46:43Ronaldinho, no?
46:44No, you?
46:45Ronaldinho era jovem ainda, era pequeno.
46:47Ele aprendeu conosco.
46:50The most capped and the best drinker.
46:52O capitão tem que dar exemplo, então eu era o primeiro.
47:00Do you know the crossbar?
47:01Crossbar challenge?
47:11I'm just glad he's going to get the ball back.
47:17Wow!
47:18Yes!
47:19Go, go, go, go, go, go, go!
47:21So, show me.
47:24Okay.
47:29Woo!
47:30Did that.
47:31Has he even shaved the ball yet?
47:35Careful, I need you to lift it up you batman.
47:37Come on.
47:38Vamos!
47:44Hi, my ball, my ball.
47:46Go to the house.
47:47Still got a touch, ain't he?
47:48But so is Big Kev, man.
47:50So, I felt as if I acquitted myself well.
47:53If we kept the cameras rolling, I was hitting that bar, man.
47:57When you played Ronaldinho, did he ever try tricks on you?
48:01Sempre, sempre.
48:02Ele era impressionante.
48:03That was pretty special, to be honest, man.
48:07Meeting Cafu, refreshing that he was so sound.
48:10Like, what is the point in having all that success if you're a dick?
48:14It's been an absolute pleasure, mate.
48:16Never meet your heroes unless one of your heroes is Cafu.
48:19So, what a guy, man.
48:21Genuinely, obrigado.
48:22De nada.
48:25What a way to finish the trip to Brazil.
48:28It's been an incredible, beautiful country.
48:33Going to the game with the Torcidas, seeing the favelas, the Verzea.
48:37And then finishing up with Cafu there.
48:40Like, just having a kick about.
48:42Which is what football is when you strip it back, man.
48:48I wait for what it's become, and the corporation, and the big money.
48:53The jog of Benito was alive there and then.
48:56To me, that was as beautiful as the game gets.
49:00Wow.
49:05I was leaving Brazil with my faith in the beautiful game partially restored.
49:09But before heading home to Scotland, there was one final stop I had to make.
49:16The United States of America. Hell yeah.
49:19Home to American football, baseball, basketball, ice hockey.
49:23Have you ever been to a soccer game?
49:25Uh, no, actually I haven't.
49:27Well, you don't know what you're missing.
49:28Will Americans ever truly embrace real football?
49:31Do they deserve to be hosting the 2026 World Cup?
49:40In New York, I went to meet a group of football fans who meet for every Arsenal game at this
49:45bar in Brooklyn.
49:49I need to start off by obviously the World Cup is being held here in America. Are you excited?
49:58The idea of the World Cup is amazing, right?
50:04Man, it's a bad time to come to the U.S.
50:08You know what I mean? It's just a bad time.
50:13Good to open up, man.
50:16Game on, guys. Play more.
50:19You know, the best thing about being an American fan, there's certain traditions that we have in other sports, right?
50:23Like tailgating. That pre-game ritual that we have to kind of congregate, drink a little bit of beers, and
50:29walk into the stadium either a little bit inebriated, but more so Jollyman, right?
50:34That's gone. What's the point of the World Cup if we can't share with others?
50:41You seen the Cures?
50:46Who's going to go to these games?
50:48The elite. That's it.
50:51Football has become a money-making sport, right?
50:54We have ticket prices in the Premier League going up.
50:56In every football space, prices are going up.
50:58I don't know how you don't expect that to be reflected over here.
51:00Only because it's exponentially.
51:03It's a season ticket for one match.
51:04It's how extreme they've went up.
51:06I think it was something like seven or eight times as expensive as the last World Cup.
51:15You know, they call it a beautiful game, right?
51:17But what it is, is like the beauty of breaking down everybody to one thing that is just like a
51:24ball.
51:25And then everybody comes around that ball, and that's like the family, the community, everything.
51:31Anyway, the game's going to start. I don't have any skin in the game, Arsenal Man City, but I hope
51:37you have a good day, man.
51:46The Mayor of New York just walked in.
51:49He got a big reception, didn't he?
51:51He was like, walked in, like, as if Batman had walked in.
51:56Aye, it was an eye-opener, but I was also fully prepared to be, like, sort of taking the piss
52:02out of American fans.
52:04But they seemed as if they genuinely love football.
52:11But even for them, this World Cup feels particularly corporate and, like, even FIFA have went too far.
52:19If even the Americans are saying, it's sold its soul.
52:22I mean, eh, I don't know who, who is, who is the World Cup for?
52:41I headed back to Scotland, encouraged that the Americans are at least trying to get the hang of it.
52:47Maybe it is a terrible time to go to America. Maybe the stadiums will be half empty.
52:51Maybe it will just be the elite and die-hard fans who've rattled their savings to get there.
52:56Or maybe, maybe, it'll be alright.
52:59Good football team?
53:00Excellent, we won six finals this, this year.
53:04Before he headed to America, I met again with Super John McGinn
53:08to visit our old school and gauge excitement levels amongst the current pupils.
53:13So we're just about to go into this end of the hall, and they only found out about an hour
53:16and a half ago.
53:17So they are beside themselves.
53:19The atmosphere sounds good, I can.
53:20Yeah.
53:20This is more nerve-wracking than what I'm doing at the tunnel.
53:22Yeah, I said that, to get the jumping drum music on.
53:25Let's go, boys.
53:27Win your duels.
53:28CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
53:46Thanks very much.
53:48Miss?
53:49Mary.
53:52What percentage of this rumour related to John?
53:55LAUGHTER
53:56How many cousins have you got?
53:5960.
54:0060?
54:01Probably more.
54:02If you're related to John, raise a hand.
54:05Aye, Sam.
54:05Sam.
54:06Cousin?
54:07Cousin aye.
54:07Have you got him tickets? Have you gone to the World Cup?
54:09No.
54:10Has he got your tickets?
54:10No disgust at you.
54:12You're asking him on the telly, so he's under pressure now, Sam.
54:15I'm under pressure.
54:17I'll do my best.
54:18But the teachers are still the same. I've got a few ex-teachers there.
54:21Who have you got?
54:22Mr Gibson.
54:23All the girls in my class fancied Mr Gibson and he's still...
54:28Throw her under a bus.
54:29Still teaching French?
54:30What a heartthrob, a bit of French as well, man.
54:33He's even slicked the hair back for the cameras, hasn't he?
54:36Aye, he's got an aura, hasn't he?
54:38Aye, aye, aye.
54:39I don't even know if there's anybody still here that taught me.
54:42There's a few, yes.
54:43Is Steve Erejani here?
54:45There he is.
54:46Yes, that is...
54:47It's the boulder statue of you here, Stevie.
54:50Used to sell his single fags for a quid.
54:55Aye, move on.
54:58I'm sure I speak for everybody here.
55:00We're very proud of John.
55:02And very excited for the World Cup.
55:04So who do we think is going to win the World Cup?
55:07Portugal.
55:07Portugal.
55:09What did they say?
55:10Portugal.
55:13I thought I'd set it up for a big part of mine.
55:15Scotland!
55:16And then a wee, uber-rational guy.
55:19Portugal.
55:21We're going to take some questions, so...
55:23If Scotland were to make it to the final, who would you like to play?
55:27England.
55:27Only one answer.
55:29Because I need to live there.
55:31So the thought of beating England in the final is beyond my wildest dreams.
55:35How did you feel when Kenny McLean got the winning goal to put Scotland through?
55:40The best feeling when Kenny got it.
55:42Everyone was shouting at me to go to the corner, but when he shot and it went in, it was
55:46just...
55:46That was the game done.
55:48Best feeling ever.
55:50A Syed.
55:51I was at school with a few Syeds.
55:53There must be a relation there.
55:54Tony.
55:55Rhys.
55:55Are you related to Tony and Rhys and Raymond?
55:58So it is!
56:00Tony, Syed, still a handsome bastard.
56:06That's me, I'm officially an old guy.
56:07I went to school with your dahin.
56:10I never thought that would happen to me.
56:12Happens to everybody.
56:13What would your celebration be if you score the winner against Haiti?
56:16Because I'll be there.
56:18Oh.
56:18You got to the game?
56:19You got tickets?
56:20Yeah, I think.
56:21When does the school term finish?
56:24It's just implicated his parents here.
56:27He's dogging school.
56:28Aye.
56:29You got to the game.
56:30What would your celebration be?
56:32If I had a six pack, I'd probably take my top off.
56:37It'd have to be the goggles and then you can give me the hairband.
56:41If you had to give one piece of advice to a young female footballer starting out
56:46using what you know now, what would it be and why?
56:49Oh, great question.
56:51Just keep enjoying it.
56:52Because it gets to an age and a stage where the enjoyment just gets sucked out and it gets too
56:57serious.
56:58So keep enjoying it and keep playing with a smile on your face.
57:01St Peter the Apostle, a massive round of applause.
57:04One of our very own.
57:05Give it up for John McGinn.
57:18The kids' excitement was infectious.
57:20It took me back to that summer of 98 in River Denon.
57:23The summer holidays approaching.
57:25The World Cup on the way.
57:26A whole new generation of memories being created.
57:29Like when they met John McGinn.
57:32Or when Kevin Bridges vandalised their expensive football boots.
57:39When these kids grow up, they'll remember the time that they met their football hero.
57:44No worries, I talk. No worries.
57:45They'll talk about the 2026 World Cup in America.
57:49Of course.
57:49Staying up late with their families or having a sleepover with their pals
57:52to watch Scotland play Haiti at 2 o'clock in the morning.
57:58I realised that so much of what makes football beautiful are the memories.
58:05I've been all around the world in search of the beautiful game.
58:09I think I've found something here in Clydebank.
58:11Right back when we started.
58:12And it's kind of gave me a bit of hope for the game.
58:15And then a beautiful way to bring football back in all its glory would be seeing John McGinn
58:21lifting the World Cup for Scotland.
58:23We're 100% Clydebank on East Chelsea.
58:27Alrighty.
58:28Here we go.
58:28One, two, three.
58:29Scotland!
58:40A different side to the beautiful game.
58:42Ultras watch now on BBC iPlayer.
58:45And the trials and tribulations of football sacked in the morning.
58:48Listen now on BBC Sounds.
58:50We're on the road to the World Cup next here on BBC Scotland.
58:55Seems like they're never gonna own the sound of the cows.
59:02No Manouss!
59:03No Manouss.
59:03No Manouss.
59:04helfenos.імENT
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