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00:01I'm Adam Richmond, global food explorer and someone who loves exploring this wonderful world fork first.
00:08I'm making the map my menu.
00:10That is beautiful.
00:11And eating my way through a country that is synonymous with delicious food that's beloved the world over, Italy.
00:17Risotto alla Milanese.
00:20I'm seeking the iconic dishes that are named for the legendary Italian cities that invented them.
00:26From Parma.
00:27Tortelli di Parma.
00:28Pasta in Parma that will leave you overjoyed.
00:32He's got a little weak.
00:34To Genoa.
00:35To Bologna.
00:36It's a great way to start the day in B-O-L-O-G-N-A.
00:41If you want to uncover a city's true food soul, eat the food that wears its name.
00:46Bistecca alla Fiorentina in Florence.
00:49I'm exploring the best.
00:52The freshest.
00:54Oh my God.
00:55Welcome Mary.
00:55The most delicious bites of each region of Italy I traveled to.
00:59Tiramisu.
01:00At the restaurant where it was born.
01:02This is my incredible edible adventure.
01:05This is Adam Richmond Eats Italy.
01:15The city I'm currently in was founded way back in 183 BC by the ancient Romans.
01:22It is in the middle of Italy's food valley in the region of Emilia Romagna, Italy's food capital.
01:29This place is one of the most profound culinary icons, not just in Italy, but the world.
01:37I am in Parma, and as I make the map my menu, I am really going to sample some of
01:43Italy's most delicious, greatest hits.
01:46Dessert, pasta, meats and cheeses, all the food you love that pleases.
01:51This episode's got good food karma.
01:53This is Adam Richmond Eats Italy in Parma.
02:10I start off with a dish that is so beloved that it bears the name of the city where it
02:15was created.
02:18Tortelli di Parma.
02:20I am at Parma Rota restaurant, a place that specializes in Parma signature dishes.
02:26And I've come here today to see Parma's iconic, overstuffed, oversized version of ravioli.
02:33So it's time to get some delicious tortelli down in my belly.
02:42Tortelli di Parma dates back to the Middle Ages, and they're often enjoyed by locals at special occasions.
02:49Chefs Jessica and Federico are already busy in the kitchen, making the filling for this luscious dish.
02:57Okay, so what is the first step?
02:59We cook the chard.
03:00Okay.
03:01After that, we cold it, chop them.
03:04We mix the ricotta, the parmigiano reggiano, the eggs, the nutmeg and the salt with the charm.
03:10Okay, so now what do we do now that we have the filling?
03:12Now we are going to make the pasta and the tortelli.
03:15No, che per fare il tortello d'erbetta è molto importante anche la pasta fresca.
03:19It has to be fresh pasta.
03:20È molto importante, esatto.
03:22Molto importante.
03:23Molto importante, esatto.
03:24Sì, capisco.
03:25Perché deve essere bilanciato, un buon ripieno deve essere accompagnato da una buona pasta fresca.
03:30So it doesn't make a difference if you have a good filling, you have to have fresh pasta.
03:35Yes, of course.
03:36Sì, capisco.
03:37All right, so we have fresh pasta.
03:39Is it uovo, farina?
03:41Only eggs and flour.
03:43How thin do you want it to go?
03:45Very thin.
03:46Molto sottile.
03:47A noi piace molto, molto sottile.
03:49Like paper?
03:50Yes.
03:51Yes.
03:53If you want to fill it.
03:55Oh.
03:56Si deve vedere la mano.
03:57Si deve vedere.
03:57You can see your hand right through it.
03:59And when you have your sheet of pasta, we have our ripieno, our filling.
04:04Okay.
04:05The filling of blitzed up chard, ricotta, eggs, nutmeg, salt and parmigiano reggiano is piped
04:11onto the whisper thin sheet of pasta.
04:13Oh, that's a lot.
04:14That's like a bonbon.
04:15That's huge.
04:16A noi piacciono belli, belli ripieni.
04:18Belli, grossi ripieni.
04:20Deve essere quello che porta il piatto.
04:23Quindi la pasta fa da contorno.
04:25Quindi è molto importante anche la pasta.
04:27Ma si deve sentire il ripieno.
04:29E' la più importante per le tortelle?
04:32La grande, grande, ma il ripieno?
04:35Si, si deve sentire.
04:36Il ripieno?
04:37E' soggettivo.
04:38Molti li fanno più piccolini.
04:40A noi piace che si senta il ripieno.
04:43Ecco, deve esplodere il ripieno.
04:44Ma perché piccolini?
04:47Esatto.
04:48Così è buono.
04:49E poi dopo vanno tutti passati nel formaggio, nel burro.
04:53Eh, la vita corta.
04:54Si.
04:54Life is short.
04:56Yes.
04:56Make big pasta.
04:58So now what do we do next?
05:00We put the tortelli in the bollitore.
05:02Oh, boiling water.
05:03Yes.
05:04Ok.
05:04Ok.
05:06It takes less than two minutes till the pasta's ready.
05:09The dish is finished off with a dusting of 24-month age parmigiano reggiano.
05:15Wow, gorgeous.
05:17And lashings of butter.
05:18Decadent, delicious, and downright glorious.
05:22So let's eat.
05:23Oh, grazie, grazie.
05:24Enjoy.
05:25Oh, I certainly will.
05:27Wowzy, wowzy.
05:28And these are gorgeous.
05:29It's like there's a whole golf ball size of filling inside.
05:32And I am not mad at that at all.
05:34Oh, my.
05:38Oh, smells crazy.
05:46When I'm here, the meals, the memories, the mouthfuls that I want are authentic.
05:52Travel in and of itself is an indulgence.
05:55And if you're going to indulge in the joy of travel, want to indulge a little in the foods
06:01of one of the greatest eating cultures on planet Earth.
06:08It's tortelli di Parma.
06:09The overstuffed, overfilled feeling and tastes of pasta in Parma that will leave you overjoyed.
06:17And maybe a little overstuffed, too.
06:20Salute.
06:22Do you believe I was almost a doctor?
06:33I called it an early night here in Parma because I was up the next day bright and early
06:38for my next bite at Casaficio Monticompe, a dairy farm just outside of town.
06:43And I'm about to witness how something truly special is made.
06:49Authentic Parmigiano Reggiano.
06:51Hi, how are you?
06:52Beatrice.
06:53Nice to meet you.
06:54Nice to meet you.
06:54Nice to meet you.
06:55Nice to meet you.
06:56Named after Parma and neighboring Reggio Emilia, this cheese has been produced the same way since the 13th century
07:04and can only be made in this region of Italy.
07:07Beatrice is going to be giving me a VIP look at how this famous cheese is brought to life.
07:13Let's make some cheese, shall we?
07:14After you.
07:15Okay, let's go.
07:16Andiamo, baby.
07:16Let's go.
07:18Whoa.
07:21Now you can't make cheese without milk.
07:24And here it comes in fresh from Alpine brown and Italian Frisian cows milked at this very creamery.
07:32Head cheesemaker Emilio and his team start slowly heating the milk up in copper vats.
07:38They then mix it with a way starter and animal rennet that curdles the liquid milk to create solid curds.
07:45Right now, you can see the moment of the spinatura.
07:51What is the spinatura?
07:52We break down the carbs, the milk that is solidifying with a special instrument that is called spin that you
07:59can see right now.
08:00So that's breaking the curds.
08:02Yeah, breaking the curd and the aim is to obtain the little, little granules like rice.
08:09The milk is then heated to around 50 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes, allowing the curd granules to dry.
08:17Emilio is touching the milk because it feels the texture is right.
08:23You can make parmesan cheese anywhere in the world, but legally it cannot be called parmigiano-reggiano.
08:31The real deal made here is a protected certified cheese crafted under strict quality regulations.
08:39What I love is this.
08:41Here we are in the 21st century and the way to tell when it's ready is using your hand.
08:46Once Emilio is happy, the heat is turned off and the cheese curd granules sink to the bottom of the
08:52vat, forming an amalgamated cheese mass.
08:55And after an hour of rest, then we lift it only by hand.
09:00Oh my goodness.
09:01I want to see this.
09:04So he's prying it off the bottom.
09:06Wow, I see.
09:08He's using all his body weight.
09:11So then they go underneath it to sort of catch it.
09:16This is incredible.
09:18Like my heart is racing.
09:19So that's the shaping of it.
09:21They're rolling back and forth.
09:23This ivory sphere of dairy is then cut into two.
09:28They're shaping it into two different potential eventual balls of cheese.
09:32That's the shaping and he's molding it with his hands.
09:35They want to have a cheese that it's like a wheel.
09:40Look at this.
09:41The wheels of cheese are then put into special molds for three days before being moved to a special yet
09:49stinky salt bath.
09:50This is like a swimming pool, but it's full of water and salt.
09:55And cheese.
09:56Yeah, and cheese, of course.
09:58Why is it so dark?
09:59Because we never clean this pool.
10:02It's a secret from the production of the Parmigiano Reggiano.
10:05We add new water like every day, but we never change it.
10:09It's like the pool at a YMCA in New York.
10:11And how long do they stay in the funky black water?
10:1418 days.
10:15And in this moment, it happens a really important chemical reaction that is called osmosis.
10:21If the salt goes in, water goes out.
10:24Yeah, exactly.
10:25Wow.
10:25I would have thought, oh, you throw the salt in with the curds when you're making the cheese.
10:31After 18 days, the wheels of cheese are taken to the aging room.
10:35Oh, my God.
10:36I just need a lot of pasta and a lot of bread.
10:39We're going to be okay.
10:40An expert will inspect every cheese wheel by tapping it with a hammer.
10:44They listen closely to be sure it's solid and aged properly before giving it a stamp
10:50of approval.
10:51Just for color, look at the younger cheeses and you can see how light colored they are
10:56and you can see how much more intense and how much smaller they get as they age till
11:02you get to something from March.
11:04Oh, my God.
11:05Like you said, December of 2017.
11:08With a starting price of over 500 pounds, here you can buy wheels of cheese that have
11:13been matured from one year to over eight.
11:17Well, now I'm just excited to taste it.
11:19May we?
11:20Yeah, of course.
11:21I'm going to be trying the most popular cheese, the one aged for two years.
11:26Make the magic happen, David Copperfield.
11:28Here we go.
11:32Oh, wow.
11:33I've always wanted to see this.
11:38It's awesome.
11:40Okay.
11:47Wow.
11:48Wow.
11:49Wow.
11:51I've never tasted anything like that in my whole life.
11:54It's creamy and crumbly.
11:56It tastes like milk.
11:57And then a little bit of salt.
11:59It has the perfuminess.
12:01It smells like fresh baked bread, but it's so creamy inside.
12:13Work the drive.
12:15Get a cab.
12:16Rent a car.
12:16Drive out of Parma.
12:18Get the cheese.
12:19Get all the cheese.
12:20Eat all the cheese.
12:22Oh.
12:23Parmigiano-Reggiano.
12:24Truly one of the world's greatest delicacies.
12:38I'm in Parma, Italy, making the map my menu and seeking out the dishes loved locally and globally that bear
12:47the name of the city where they were created.
12:49And up next is a charcuterie classic.
12:53Making the map your menu here in Parma, that's a pretty easy thing to do.
12:57Not only do they have the iconic Parmigiano-Reggiano, but they have arguably the king of the charcuterie board, prosciutto
13:04di Parma.
13:05In fact, it has a DOP, protected classification.
13:10Prosciutto di Parma, Parma ham, that can only be made from heritage breed pigs raised in this region of Italy.
13:19Where I am now, Salumeria Garibaldi, they have been putting out unbelievable prosciutto di Parma for over a half century.
13:28So, let us please have a portion of prosciutto di Parma, per favore.
13:36You must be Nicola.
13:38Nice to meet you.
13:39Pleasure.
13:39The pleasure is all my piacere mio.
13:42Is the prosciutto di Parma the thing that you are most famous for?
13:45Absolutely.
13:46There's no match versus the other products.
13:49Really?
13:50May I see the actual stuff in action?
13:52May I come back?
13:53Please.
13:53Wow, I got a golden ticket.
13:54Let's go.
13:56So, what is the most popular?
13:58That's probably the 24.
14:00Beyond the 24-month version, the ham can be aged to as long as three years.
14:06What are the factors that make these pigs so magical?
14:10The forks and the farms, they grow up very well, over two years old.
14:14There's no rush to product.
14:15So, the pigs graze in specific areas.
14:18They're fed specific things.
14:19There's one defining factor that sets Parma ham from the rest.
14:24The secret behind its unique flavor.
14:27The microclimate is for the curing.
14:29For the curing.
14:30The cure for the ham in this case is the wind from the sea.
14:33From La Spezia.
14:34Golfo di La Spezia is really close to us.
14:36So, is it salt air?
14:38That is incredible.
14:39That is the secret.
14:39This is called marino.
14:41Marine wind.
14:43When the sea breeze blows in from the Liguria coast and meets the Apennine mountain air,
14:48it creates the perfect conditions for curing.
14:51Okay, may I try the 24?
14:53Sure.
14:54I cut here the best that I have today.
14:56Oh, I am honored.
14:57My favorite wine.
15:04Look at that.
15:06Oh, my word.
15:08That looks like a rose.
15:10This is just beautiful.
15:11Do they have a very specific feed?
15:13Is it acorns?
15:14What do they eat?
15:15Exactly.
15:16Acorns.
15:16Yeah, exactly.
15:17Remember the rule.
15:18One slice, one bite.
15:20Whole thing.
15:21Exactly.
15:21Because you got to balance the taste of the fat and the meat together.
15:30My knees got a little weak.
15:32The balance of the salt and the fat keeps it from getting too fatty and too oily and
15:39too salty.
15:46This is crazy.
15:47The fat liquefies.
15:49It just melts.
15:50It's gone.
15:50And it becomes like a sauce.
15:52It's like a sugo that wraps the meat around so it kind of like coats your tongue.
15:58That's bloody spectacular.
16:00Okay.
16:00That's incredible.
16:03If you want a taste of Parma, of this region, of the traditions, of the talent at play in the
16:09food industry here, si Nicola, come right here.
16:13This place is a national treasure and so is he.
16:15Grazie.
16:16Thank you very much.
16:17Arrivederci.
16:17Buona giornata.
16:18We have a lot more to eat.
16:19Prosciutto di Parma.
16:21Silky, salty, legendary lusciousness.
16:31My final stop in Parma is a cake layered with history.
16:35Napoleon Bonaparte has had a lasting effect, for better or worse, on the nation of Italy.
16:41But here in Parma, it's actually the legacy of Napoleon's second wife, the Duchess of Parma.
16:47Maria Louise, or Maria Luigia, as she is known here in Parma, that is still loved, respected,
16:52and eaten today.
16:55La torta duquesa di Parma.
16:57The cake of the Duchess of Parma is one of the desserts of the city.
17:02Legend has it that the cake was created in honor of the Duchess, and it soon became her
17:07favorite cake.
17:09And word is, here at Pasticceria Battistini, father and son patissiers Alessandro and Luca
17:16make one of the best versions in the whole city.
17:19Napoleon got exiled, he just gets a little pastry.
17:21But Maria Luigia, duquesa de Parma, she gets a whole cake.
17:26So let us try a dessert fit for a Duchess.
17:29I mean, how could she do anything like this?
17:37So what do we have in the cake? This is the base of it?
17:40Yes, there are three layers of biscuit.
17:43Okay.
17:44And this is biscuit made with hazelnut flour, white flour, eggs, butter and sugar.
17:49Okay, let's start. Andiamo.
17:53First we put the sugar and the butter.
17:57We put the raw egg.
18:01And then we add the hazelnut flour.
18:07You can smell the nuts now.
18:09Yeah.
18:10Oh.
18:12So we add the last ingredient now, white flour.
18:15We use organic flour.
18:17That is made here in the province of Parma, close to our shop.
18:21Once the dough is mixed, it's put in the fridge for a couple of hours, allowing the butter to set.
18:27It's then rolled out and baked.
18:34What kind of cream is in that one?
18:36That is dark chocolate added to our custard.
18:39We mix it with some whipped cream so it is a little lighter.
18:42What is the custard made of?
18:44Eggs, sugar, milk, little cream, vanilla and lemon zest.
18:49Lemon zest with chocolate. I love that. Okay.
18:51So now what is this cream?
18:53This is the zabaione cream.
18:54This is very, very Italian.
18:56So it's zabaione.
18:58Yeah.
18:58It's egg yolk.
18:59Okay.
19:00Zucchero, obviously.
19:01Zucchero.
19:02And then we put marsala wine.
19:04Marsala wine.
19:05And little rum.
19:07Rum too.
19:08Yeah.
19:08Me dispiace.
19:09But I have to.
19:11Oh, no.
19:13Molto licor.
19:15Oh.
19:16It's my kind of cake.
19:17Duques's department liked a little bit of a party.
19:19I like this.
19:21The cake is put in the blast chiller for one hour.
19:25And once the filling is set, it's time for the final touches.
19:29So what do we have here?
19:30That is custard and dark chocolate.
19:32It is very thick.
19:33Just mesmerized by the skill here.
19:38We're taking for granted how much talent Alessandro is demonstrating right here.
19:43Oh.
19:47After the icing sugar, Alessandro dots the cake with water so that the ganache will stick.
19:53And to make the decoration.
19:55Delicious cherries finish off this masterpiece.
19:57There we go.
20:02That is beautiful.
20:04That is beautiful.
20:05Que bellissima, huh?
20:07I read somewhere that a recipe is like a fairy tale because of memory.
20:13You always remember that recipe and you tell it to your children and grandchildren.
20:20I love that.
20:21A recipe is like a fairy tale.
20:24Yeah.
20:24And it's how you pass it down.
20:26This will be the fairy tale I tell back in America when people say, well, what did you eat in
20:31Emilia Romara?
20:32What did you eat in Parma?
20:33Yeah.
20:33Grazie per tutti.
20:35Salute.
20:36Salute.
20:36Salute.
20:37Salute.
20:37Salute.
20:37Salute.
20:42Salute.
20:47Salute.
21:06All right.
21:07Even though it goes back to a duchess from the 19th century
21:11and the 21st century, it is every bit as delicious.
21:14And it is a distinctly pure taste of parma.
21:18And these two men are continuing the tradition of that story.
21:22And after all, you've done the savory, you need the sweet.
21:26Life's too short, Nazi.
21:37Oh, hi, hello, how are you, sir?
21:47Sorry, I just wanted to...
21:49I'm just going to put that right back.
21:53I will return my love.
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