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00:01I'm Adam Richmond, global food adventurer, and someone who loves exploring this wonderful world fork first.
00:08I'm making the map my menu.
00:09That is beautiful.
00:11And eating my way through a country that is synonymous with delicious food that's beloved the world over.
00:16Italy!
00:18Risotto alla Milanese.
00:20I'm seeking the iconic dishes that are named for the legendary Italian cities that invented them.
00:26From prosciutto di Parma in Parma.
00:29My knee's got a little weak.
00:30To world famous pizza.
00:32Real Neapolitan pizza here in Naples.
00:35Monte di Napoli.
00:36To Polonese lasagna in Bologna.
00:39It's magic. It's beautiful.
00:41If you want to uncover a city's true food soul, eat the food that wears its name.
00:46Bistecca alla Fiorentina in Florence.
00:49I'm exploring the best.
00:52The freshest.
00:54Oh my gosh, I'm ready.
00:55The most delicious bites of each region of Italy I travel to.
00:59Tiramisu.
01:00At the restaurant where it was born.
01:02This is my incredible edible adventure.
01:05This is Adam Richmond Eats Italy.
01:10Rome, the capital of Italy, and for 1,000 years, the heart of a global empire.
01:17It's the eternal city and a place that has captivated the world's imagination for eons.
01:22It's home to iconic structures like the Colosseum behind me, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain.
01:29Now obviously there is a lot of history and there is also a lot of fantastic food.
01:35A lot of places that cater to tourists, but I am going to show you how to eat in Rome
01:41like the Romans do.
01:43Go to the authentic spots.
01:44From their iconic pasta dish, cacio e pepe.
01:47The flag of Rome is cacio e pepe.
01:50To a wonderful, delicious version of the pork sandwich served out of a place that calls itself the Little Hole.
01:56Wine, pork and bread.
01:58It's classic.
01:59And then I'm going to make a pilgrimage to two places that I fell in love with nine years ago.
02:05One's sweet, one is savory, and both are undeniably Roman.
02:10Bienvenuti a Roma.
02:11There's no place like Rome.
02:13There's no place like Rome.
02:15No place like Rome.
02:19The Lazio region in which Rome sits is famous for its countryside and Castelli Romani,
02:26castle communes like Arritschia that have long preserved Etruscan and Roman traditional recipes like porchetta.
02:35And while the nearby regions of Abruzzo and Umbria lay claim to this dish,
02:39it was truly popularized by Roman vendors at local inns and taverns.
02:47Porchetta Romana.
02:49Erbuchetto literally means the little hole.
02:52And this little hole is an incredibly small eatery that serves up porchetta.
02:57Essentially deboned, aromatically stuffed pig, roasted for hours, crispy skin, juicy inside, explosive flavors.
03:07Shall we go to the hole?
03:08Let's take it to the hole.
03:11Buongiorno.
03:13Alessandro?
03:14Alessandro.
03:14That's okay.
03:16Romano Mato.
03:17Romano Mato.
03:19Alessandro is the fifth generation to make this traditional sandwich right here in this shop.
03:24It's always porchetta di Arritschia.
03:27Wine, pork and bread.
03:29It's classic.
03:30And the porchetta is from Arritschia.
03:33Outside of Rome, there is a place called Arritschia.
03:36And he was showing me that there is Sagra della Porchetta.
03:40There is actually a guild that protects porchetta so much in the same way they protect Nocciola de Piedmont, Basilico
03:49de Genovese.
03:50It's a characteristic.
03:52So basically, they open it up, they debone it, salt, pepper, olive oil, rosemary, close it, and then forno a
04:00legno.
04:06Simple, honest, traditional Roman fare is the vibe at the hole, and that extends to your drink, too.
04:12This is the wine.
04:16The wine comes on tap.
04:19No, no, this is tradizionale.
04:22This is it.
04:23There is this wonderful wine on tap.
04:25It comes from the Castelli, from the Roman castle outside of Rome.
04:32Oh, con maiale.
04:34Si.
04:35Bianco e rosso.
04:37Classico e bianco e porchetta.
04:38If that's the classic, then that's what I'm having.
04:41I am, after all, a classic man.
04:44So since 1890, it's erbuceto.
04:46It's a little hole, and it is this little gem.
04:50Like, by the afternoon, there's no more.
04:58Grazie.
04:59And it's just sale, pepe, aglio, rosemary?
05:04It's tutto.
05:05It's tutto.
05:06I'm shocked.
05:07It smells...
05:10Yeah, he wants me to just try it already.
05:12I don't know where to start.
05:14Which...
05:22You have, um, un armonia.
05:26Like, it's perfectly balanced.
05:29There's crispy skin, super savory meat, crispy on the outside, morbida, super soft on the inside.
05:36So you get that crunch from the skin.
05:40It yields to the meat.
05:41But as you eat it, the fat almost liquefies into a sauce.
05:49Oh, yes.
05:51That's the one.
05:51That's the one.
05:52See, it's supposed to be.
05:53Yeah.
05:56I feel...
05:57I feel like Caesar now.
06:00I feel...
06:01I need, like, the little leaves here.
06:04Acid.
06:05This is delicious.
06:06It's perfect, and it's a real taste of rum.
06:09Welcome to the home.
06:11El buceto.
06:12El buceto.
06:13Salute.
06:23From a new discovery to a restaurant I miss like an old friend.
06:27To try a pasta dish that the world's been loving for ages, and I fell in love with a decade
06:33ago.
06:34Carbonara perfection.
06:36So right now, I'm in front of Racioli's Salumeria on Via de Giubonari, about 75 yards away from where Julius
06:43Caesar was stabbed.
06:44I came here for the first time in 2016, and it was easily one of the greatest meals of my
06:50life.
06:50And now I'm back.
06:51But I'm not going to film in this kitchen.
06:53I'm going to this one.
06:56This is actually Racioli's commissary kitchen, where they make their unbelievable fresh pasta and all their focaccia.
07:02But I've come here to see this dude, Chef Gabriele.
07:06Thank you for having me, brother.
07:07Gian Gianni, why is your carbonara so popular?
07:11A lot of people ask about the secrets.
07:13The secret is the ingredients.
07:15Pork cheeks, guanciale, pecorino romano, and eggs, pepper.
07:20But the quality of the ingredients you use, that makes the difference.
07:25So what's the first step?
07:27First step, we're going to cook the guanciale.
07:30You don't have to add anything.
07:31No oil at all?
07:32It will start melting, and then it's going to fry in its home fat.
07:36Okay.
07:36Yeah.
07:37So dry pan.
07:38I didn't expect that.
07:39And if you leave its home fat, it remains crispy for all day.
07:45So what kind of pasta are we using?
07:47We use the mezzemanighe.
07:48Half sleeve?
07:50Is that what it's called?
07:50Yeah.
07:51It takes like 12 minutes.
07:52Okay.
07:52And we can start to prepare the sauce with the eggs.
07:58We're almost done here.
07:59So one egg proportion.
08:01One egg.
08:01Just one.
08:02And we use just the yolks, just a little bit of the eggs white.
08:06The real density, the custardy part of the egg is always the yolk.
08:10The albumin, the egg white, a lot of protein, but it doesn't add that veluté, that real
08:17velvety Sofia Loren de Sugo, the real sexiness of the sauce.
08:23Gabriel smile because he knows what I'm talking about.
08:25In our recipe, 65% of pecorino romano and 25% of parmigiano reggiano.
08:32Then we put some pepper.
08:36Okay, so now what do we do?
08:38Then we put this like a bagno maria.
08:40No kidding.
08:41No kidding.
08:41We have to like pasteurize a little bit of the eggs.
08:44Now the pasta is cooked.
08:45Pasta is cooked.
08:47Beautiful.
08:49Now we're going to put the king of the recipe.
08:52The king of the recipe, the guanciale, chunks of cheek bacon-y goodness.
09:01And you'll see, I mean, we didn't add any cream, but can I try just a piece of the guanciale?
09:05Of course.
09:11It's like powdery, and then as you chew it, it's right where that bacon fat renders into
09:20just fairy dust.
09:21All right.
09:22Where's the plate right here, chef?
09:23Sure.
09:32Just a little bit of pecorino.
09:36And of pepper.
09:41Now that is a thing of beauty right there.
09:44This is the iconic pasta carbonara from Roscioli here in Rome.
09:54Oh, wow.
09:57No.
10:02So the pasta is the quintessential essence of what it means, at least to me, al dente.
10:08It means to the teeth.
10:09Then the guanciale, it doesn't crack.
10:13It's sort of the end of a spare rib.
10:15It's the bacon that runs down that little thin, fat edge there.
10:20You bite in, and it kind of explodes, right?
10:24Breakfast never had it so good.
10:26Bacon on goddamn heads.
10:35I'm in Italy.
10:38Exploring Fort First, making the map my menu, and visiting some old personal favorites.
10:44And discovering some brand new ones.
10:47The iconic 1960 Fellini film set and shot in Rome is about the Roman sweet life.
10:55And it doesn't get any sweeter than this high-quality, authentic Italian gelato.
11:02Italy's creamy answer to ice cream.
11:05This place is one of my all-time favorites.
11:08I have been dying to return to taste their exquisite gelato made using milk from grass-fed
11:14dairy cows and their unbelievable homemade cones.
11:18In 2016, when I was filming a TV show here in Rome, my director of photography and good
11:23friend Rob said, listen, I heard about this place, and it's called Come e Latte.
11:28It means like milk.
11:29And it is just like that.
11:31Let's have some amazing gelato, shall we?
11:34Andiamo.
11:37Oh, I forgot about that.
11:38Buongiorno.
11:39Smells buongiorno.
11:40Adam.
11:41Nicoletta.
11:42Nicoletta, piacere.
11:43Alex.
11:44Gelato is generally served warmer than American ice cream.
11:48Yeah.
11:48Which I think makes it even more palatable.
11:51Yeah.
11:52It's like your taste buds spent a semester abroad, and they started listening to classical
11:56music.
11:57You're like, ooh.
11:58Tell me how Come e Latte was born and how it was named.
12:02And...
12:02Yes.
12:03It started like 14 years ago.
12:05I started, you know, being interested in how you make gelato.
12:09So after a little bit of learning, I opened this place here.
12:15And I started, you know, from zero.
12:19All of Nicoletta's gelato is made in-house, right in the kitchen in the back of the shop,
12:24with carefully balanced recipes she has perfected over the years.
12:28And I'm getting a VIP look at how it's made.
12:31Okay.
12:31What flavor are we making?
12:33We're making mascarpone and gentilini.
12:36It's a mascarpone cream with the biscuits, the gentilini, which has typical Roman biscuits.
12:44Yeah.
12:44They look kind of like lady fingers, and I guess they have honey.
12:49Yeah.
12:49And we, like, crush them, and we put in white chocolate, and then we drizzle inside the gelato.
12:56The exact ratios of Nicoletta's gelato recipe are top secret, but suffice it to say that
13:03the best cream and the best milk are added to just the right amount of sugar.
13:09I'm gonna add the mascarpone in.
13:11I try to do everything as natural as possible.
13:14Pure Lombardi lusciousness.
13:17Yeah.
13:17That is the cheese that you'll find in tiramisu.
13:20All right.
13:20Now she's put in her bazooka.
13:29So now we gotta get this guy frozen, right?
13:31This is gonna pasteurize it.
13:34Okay.
13:34It's gonna bring it up to 85 degrees.
13:37It's the churning that really makes the difference.
13:40Gelato is slow churned.
13:43Yeah.
13:43So that means that there is a creamy consistency with very little air.
13:47American ice cream, or traditional ice cream, is whipped very fast.
13:52And so it aerates it and makes it very light.
13:56Mm-hmm.
13:56So that is why there is this sort of velvety, silky thing.
14:01I'm getting a little turned on here right now talking about the gelato.
14:06The conversation is not the only thing that's heating up.
14:09We eagerly wait for the mixture to hit the pasteurization point of a steamy 85 degrees Celsius.
14:20Once pasteurized, the gelato mixture is cooled and churned, and Alex starts mixing the flavors.
14:27White chocolate and Gentilini honey biscuit.
14:30Creamy, crispy, and expertly crafted with quality ingredients.
14:34Adding the chilled white chocolate and biscuit mix to the frozen gelato base.
14:39Oh, I can't wait to get a taste.
14:41Grazie.
14:47Okay, the lovely Alessandra said this is one of her favorite flavors.
14:50I never would have thought to do this.
14:53Oh my God, it's amazing.
14:55Oh my God, it's amazing.
14:58That's why it's my favorite.
14:59Yeah.
15:00The cookies almost powderize in your mouth.
15:03It just sort of becomes this lovely crispy texture through the whole thing.
15:07As delicious as that was, I really want to relive my delicious Roman memory of this place,
15:14ordering the exact same cone I did a decade ago, combining their absolute number one flavor
15:20with one of my all-time favorite gelato flavors and one of their exquisite handmade cones.
15:26First, one of the things I remembered the most, melted chocolate inside the cone.
15:32Then we add a scoop of stracciatella from the Italian word stracciare to tear up,
15:37referring to the tiny ribbons of shaved chocolate inside.
15:40And then a scoop of gianduia, a heavenly blend of chocolate and hazelnut.
15:45Milk and cream and sugar and talent and time and temperature, and that's really what you got.
15:50Come a latte.
15:51So let's see.
15:59It's like everything you love about the combination of chocolate and hazelnut,
16:03where you can taste every ingredient, where you can taste the milk,
16:07and the cream isn't oppressive and heavy.
16:10And you get the perfuminess.
16:12You understand why they protect hazelnuts from pimonte.
16:16If they're woody and waxy and nutty and smoky and have a little bit of a bite to them,
16:21and it's everything that is right with the world.
16:24And I'm so glad I get to have the rest of this cone.
16:27There's chocolate inside of it.
16:34Our final destination holds a really special place in my heart.
16:38And it's not just for the incredible food they produce.
16:45I was lucky enough to call Chef Anthony Bourdain a friend and a mentor.
16:49And the last time we ever connected was right here in Rome.
16:53And he loved this place.
16:56The idea of connecting with my old friend in the last place I saw him is pretty heavy,
17:03pretty powerful.
17:04But I know how much he loved Rome and how much love he instilled in me of Rome.
17:11So this next bit is not just a love letter to the eternal city or making the map my menu,
17:18but it's because I missed Tony.
17:33All right, I want a real taste of Rome.
17:36So what should I have today?
17:37What should I eat today?
17:38I mean, probably would be cacio e pepe.
17:42Cacio e pepe.
17:43If there's one dish that is synonymous with Rome itself, it is cacio e pepe.
17:48This simple cheese and pepper pasta is an iconic Italian dish.
17:52Eccolino romana, pepper, and talent.
17:56This osteria has been run by the same family for three generations.
18:00And now, siblings Daniela and Stefano, along with their other siblings,
18:05are preserving the traditions that Tony fell in love with.
18:08Here we go.
18:10What kind of pasta?
18:12Tonarelli?
18:12Spaghetto.
18:13Spaghetto?
18:14Spaghetto.
18:15Okay.
18:16For pasta al dente?
18:18Al dente.
18:19I need to throw it in the fridge or for like stick?
18:25Oh, really?
18:28Sì, sì.
18:29Stefano is always ready, never runs steady, and already has his pasta perfectly cooked.
18:35Okay.
18:36Okay?
18:37È pronto.
18:37È pronto?
18:38Okay.
18:38Renew that.
18:42There's the cacio, there's the pepe.
18:44But you see that Chef has already also brought out a ladle of the pasta water.
18:51Acqua.
18:51Acqua.
18:52Acqua di pasta.
18:53Acqua, pecorino e pepe.
18:54Nada masco.
18:55Mamma mia, che spettacolo.
18:57Oh.
18:58È un piatto molto semplice, ma bisogna farlo bene.
19:02So, la ricetta, memoria, occhia.
19:05Memoria, occhio e tempo.
19:07Tempo.
19:08Tempo.
19:08È un piatto semplice, ma difficile.
19:11Sempre.
19:11So, the thing is, it's a recipe that's simple, but very difficult.
19:16It's simplicity is what makes it difficult.
19:18And it's both the memories that he got from his nonna of knowing what it should look, smell,
19:25taste like.
19:31Incredible.
19:34Look at that.
19:35Now, the thing is, that's the beautiful thing.
19:37It's deceptive.
19:38You go, oh, it's pasta with cheese and pepper, but it's not.
19:41You saw the ratio, the way he was mixing it in.
19:44He's creating una sugo.
19:47He's creating a sauce, but senza sugo.
19:51Senza sugo ma sugo.
19:53But for a pro like Stefano, whipping up a plate of cacio e pepe is effortless, but it takes
19:59years of practice and years of tradition to get it this good.
20:16I didn't anticipate the immediacy of acutely feeling his loss so, so profoundly.
20:25I just miss my friends so bad.
20:28And the funny thing is, he would make fun of me right now so much.
20:33He'd be like, your pasta's getting cold, stupid.
20:35He's right.
20:43That is beautiful.
20:46It's spicy and it's nutty and creamy all at once.
20:52It has a faint, almost sour note behind it.
20:55And there's an inherent salt sort of content that comes both from the cheese and from the
20:59water itself and yet it's luxurious and it's delicate.
21:06It's a thing of beauty, kind of like the city itself.
21:16I'll give you a glass to my friend, raise the glass to Rome, to Stefano.
21:22Live your life.
21:23Love your life.
21:24La vita bella.
21:25I miss you, Tony.
21:28Salute.
21:42So this was me here in Comea Latte standing right here in 2016 and in this hand,
21:51I held what was to become my favorite gelato in the whole wide world.
21:54Romero Version 着蒙鬼知
21:57let you know by its way. We
21:59still come back to that? We
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