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00:00You can taste every kind of cheese, oysters on a half shell,
00:07French charcuterie.
00:09But beyond classic French delicacies,
00:12there are bolder, spicier flavors making waves in this city.
00:18Montreal's Haitian food is as vibrant
00:20as the community that's making it.
00:22Oxtel croquet.
00:25Oh, that's jamming.
00:27In every bite, you can taste the strength of Haiti's flavors
00:31and its people.
00:34I'm Suresh Das.
00:36I've spent my career writing about the local favorites
00:38that make Canada's food scene truly unique.
00:41I believe every bite tells a story.
00:44Now, I want to share those stories with you.
00:54My wife and I try to come to Montreal once a year.
00:57This is where we fell in love.
00:58There are food experiences here that you just can't get anywhere else.
01:03One of them is a food scene I've been watching grow over the years
01:07that the city is really taking notice of.
01:09For a long time, I've been really curious about the Haitian food culture in Montreal.
01:14I have to say, I mean, from the few Haitian friends that I've had in Toronto
01:18and having met people in Montreal, Haitian people are some of the most resilient people
01:22you'll ever meet, because they've gone through a lot.
01:25We're talking dictatorships, political turmoil, and then natural disasters.
01:29And all the while, the beacon in the air for the Haitian people has been,
01:33together, we're strong.
01:35That spirit of strength through unity is the power behind the remarkable Haitian cuisine in Montreal.
01:44Over half of newcomers from Haiti have made their home in Quebec,
01:50because speaking French makes it a natural choice.
01:53Many have settled in the northeast of the city, which is a distance.
01:56So, we're going to go from hybrid to electric.
02:04Montreal Nord is vibrant and full of life.
02:07There is a strong sense of community shaped by its multicultural roots.
02:11People here face challenges, but stick together with a lot of pride.
02:18I'm heading to one of the Haitian community's mainstays,
02:21a restaurant called Kanesuk.
02:23It's run by Claudette de Sours and her daughters, Noemi and Clarice.
02:28I really want to meet Claudette.
02:30She is, from what I understand, the matriarch of Haitian food in Montreal.
02:37Bonjour.
02:38Good morning.
02:39Morning. Are you Claudette?
02:40Yes, I am.
02:41I've heard so much about the food that you are doing here.
02:43I've heard that your soup jamu is, like, the best in the city.
02:46The best one.
02:47I would love to try that, if you don't mind, yeah.
02:49Okay.
02:53Soup jamu, or independent soup, is perhaps the most important dish in Haitian cuisine.
02:59It's always good.
03:00It starts with a vibrant blend of peppers, parsley, and other aromatics,
03:06fundamental to Haitian cooking, called épis.
03:09It's rubbed into generous chunks of lime-marinated beef,
03:19then simmered with noodles and topped with vegetables.
03:27Including pumpkin squash, which I didn't know has a special meaning for Haitians.
03:31Oh, this looks good.
03:43Oh, it's good, huh? I'm gonna need a minute.
03:47I can't say anything for like a minute. This is incredible.
03:49Whoa, it's like, it's luscious. I love that it's so chunky.
03:53And there's like so many different textures.
03:56The meat is just beautiful. Just so much depth.
03:59So, like, just comforting.
04:01The kind of soup that you eat with your whole family.
04:04Every Asian family, they go to church.
04:08After church, they all eat together.
04:10This is why we sell the soup on Sundays.
04:13And it's always sold out, always.
04:15If you come here after 11 o'clock, you're not gonna find some soup.
04:18Wait, really?
04:18Yep.
04:19After 11 o'clock?
04:20After 11 o'clock.
04:21Because the soup is very comfortable.
04:24Exactly.
04:24It's a family.
04:26Yeah, the comfort of the family.
04:27Yes.
04:28Yeah.
04:29But what is the significance of soup Jammu?
04:30Like, how important is it to the community and the culture?
04:33It was the first thing that we were able to eat after the slavery.
04:36After that, we had our independence.
04:39French colonizers did not allow enslaved Haitians to eat the pumpkin squash they grew
04:44or the soup made from it.
04:47So after their liberation, soup Jammu became a powerful symbol of freedom
04:52eaten every January 1st, Haitian Independence Day.
04:56The friends and even the neighbors that come to the house and we all eat the same soup.
05:04We're able to remind ourselves that what our ancestors did for us so we can be here together today.
05:09True liberation.
05:09Yes.
05:10Through a bowl.
05:11Exactly.
05:16Claudette's own independence has been hard won.
05:20After immigrating from Haiti in 1994, Claudette had a successful restaurant with her partner for 25 years
05:26years, then lost everything in their separation.
05:32The restaurant's name is the Creole word for sugar king, a plant that can survive in the toughest of conditions.
06:01With the help of family and friends, and even old customers and employees, Kanesuk took a root.
06:20Oh, that's great. That's wonderful.
06:21She has so many friends that love her. She has so many friends that want to help her.
06:24Her friends make like a little envelope and everyone put like $100 for her.
06:29Oh, that's cool.
06:31That looks cute.
06:32It's like old school social way, the free social media.
06:35Yeah.
06:36And I feel like this is the way that you can really tell like unity is a strength.
06:40Mm-hmm. Absolutely.
06:41Because of that, we have the train to open this right now and do what we do every day.
06:46Yeah.
06:47This is a way to show the love that we have for our customers.
06:50Well, I'm glad I got a taste of that.
06:51Yeah.
06:52I may have to ask you for a second bowl.
06:54Montreal Nord has one of the largest Haitian communities in Canada.
07:10Today, the area is recognized for its strong community activism and vibrant entrepreneurial
07:15spirit.
07:16Every single plaza that I see, I see something.
07:18Barber shops, there's a butcher shop, more restaurants, a couple of takeout places.
07:22And I've heard about a group of guys called Duo de Chef, run by four young entrepreneurs
07:28that are doing something really interesting.
07:29Four young Haitian Canadians united in a takeout and catering operation that thrives on their
07:42connection to the city.
07:43Today, they're prepping for one of their famous outdoor block parties.
07:47Hey Google, can you reduce the temperature by two degrees?
07:52Sure, turning down the temperature.
07:56I've heard about this thing called Haitian poutine, which, I mean, assimilation at its finest.
08:02And what could be more organically assimilating of Canadian culture and Haitian culture than
08:07griot poutine?
08:11Duo de Chef began almost by accident when childhood friends Ray Jean-Baptiste and Don Joseph ran into
08:18each other at culinary school.
08:19When we saw each other, we were like, what you doing over there?
08:23We didn't know that we both had the passion for cooking.
08:26Yeah.
08:26And after that, we never separated.
08:29They joined forces with Ray's cousins, Rémy, and friend Carlito Cetout with a mission to create
08:36a menu that is uniquely Montreal Haitian.
08:40God, what are you doing?
08:42You should have brought a couple of friends with me.
08:45I don't even know how to react to this, okay?
08:46Like, there's so many things on this plate.
08:48What do we have here?
08:58Griot.
08:59Classic griot.
08:59I love that.
09:00Yeah.
09:00The tasty magic that is griot is made by marinating pork shoulder in a spicy,
09:06tangy house blend of Haitian épis, simmering till tender, then deep frying until crisp.
09:12Apparently, it's called the piqulis, a big dish made of beef and strong.
09:17Perfect.
09:19Wow.
09:21I mean, I love that crust on it.
09:24Crispy and tender, for sure.
09:26Yeah, because I mean, normally, I mean, griot is something where it's like,
09:28anyone can make it, but you have to make, you have to execute it properly, right?
09:31It's that, with that cut of pork, you have to be very careful that you don't make it tough.
09:35This is wonderful.
09:36Okay, so, second generation Haitians.
09:38What was it like growing up here, right, as a Haitian?
09:40It was a sort of combat to find ourselves.
09:44Our parents, our parents are Haitian.
09:47Our parents are Haitian.
09:48And then, we grew up in Quebec.
09:50We're the first generation who had to find a balance between the two.
09:53Ah, yes.
09:54And I think that's what our food reflects.
09:58It's this balance between Haitians and being born in Canada.
10:02Oh, yes.
10:03The perfect example is Duo de Chef's griot poutine.
10:08Crisp fries that are topped with cheese curds,
10:11covered with Duo de Chef's special gravy,
10:14and finished with spicy, tender chunks of griot.
10:19Whoa, whoa.
10:21And this incredible plate of gooey mac and cheese with flavorful Haitian-style shrimp.
10:26Whoa, here we go.
10:27That's nice.
10:28That's, that's nice.
10:29That's perfect.
10:30Yeah, that's nice.
10:33Oh, delicious.
10:35Okay, and then this.
10:36Yes, this is the must.
10:37You have to tell me why this is the best griot poutine in Montreal.
10:41First of all, the griot is tender.
10:43And the homemade gravy that we have is something, is something else.
10:48Without telling me the secrets, what makes it special, the gravy?
10:51I will not.
10:55Is it, is it like a, is it like a spice?
10:57Is it, oh, it's so good though.
10:59Wow.
11:00It's got like a nice silkiness.
11:02It's rich.
11:04Slight, like there's something there, like an umami.
11:06Like something like a Worcestershire kind of thing, or like dark sauce.
11:10You're cold, cold, cold.
11:11I'm cold.
11:11Cold.
11:12I'm playing this game like my son does.
11:13Warm, warm, hotter, boiling, boiling.
11:17Whatever the secret is, it keeps the Montreal Nord community coming back.
11:22I know for the both of you, it's really important to give back to the community.
11:25Now with the block party and all the other events and the pop-ups that you've done.
11:42Is that symbolic of the Haitian spirit in Montreal?
11:45I mean like there is this saying that I keep hearing.
11:47Unity is strength.
11:48Mm-hmm.
11:51What does that mean to you?
11:52When you come together, there's no, there's no limit to what you can do.
12:04That's beautiful.
12:04You're gonna leave me alone with my poutine and my mac and cheese now.
12:07That's all yours right now.
12:15From the northern outskirts of Montreal, I've made my way to one of my favorite districts,
12:26the Old Port downtown.
12:29I'm here to check out a young chef who's bringing Haitian cuisine to Montreal's waterfront.
12:33Mike Leffaei has opened the city's first Haitian food truck.
12:38It's a satellite of his nearby brick-and-mortar restaurant Cuisine and it's flourishing in this
12:43wonderful area.
12:45Angelo.
12:46Hey, man.
12:46How are you, man?
12:47How are you doing?
12:48Good to see you.
12:48Yeah.
12:49Angelo Cadet, actor, producer, and cultural promoter, is a long-time champion of young Haitians
12:56with ambitious dreams in Montreal. So, I've asked him to introduce me to Mike.
13:00Mike, nice to meet you, finally.
13:05Nice to meet you too, man.
13:06But I've been waiting for this for so long and I mean two Haitian ambassadors in the city.
13:10So, thank you.
13:11So, what are we here to try?
13:12I'm gonna follow your lead, man.
13:13Okay, dessert.
13:14You have something with mamba.
13:15Yeah, I have a mamba cake.
13:17Mamba cake?
13:18Go have a seat.
13:18I'm gonna take care of you guys.
13:19Okay.
13:19Thank you, chef.
13:20Thank you, man.
13:20Mike came to Canada after the Haitian earthquake in 2011.
13:28He wanted to be a chef, but it was tough to move up in kitchens because of his eyesight.
13:33You realize that one day when I was learning how to drive with my uncle and then I almost
13:37went into a tree and then that's when I had to go see a doctor. I see blurry in the middle,
13:42but I have a good peripheral sight.
13:45So, he opened his own restaurant, leaning on loyal staff to build a strong new business
13:50where he could serve up Afro-Caribbean dishes and his incredible desserts.
13:55Doing the same food all the time gives me a headache. It gets me bored.
13:59A bakery and pastry, I kind of really like a lot.
14:05You must have the perfect technique to roll it. Let's roll it together.
14:08Okay.
14:09This whole restaurant, it's not only me, it's also influenced by a lot of people that I met,
14:15my cooks, everyone who comes in that brings in their part of flavors and their recipes. This is
14:21what makes cuisine better. Mike's restaurant was so popular,
14:25he decided the next step was a food truck where he could keep his creative juices flowing.
14:32I mean, the waterfront here is beautiful, but to be able to see
14:35the integration of like culture through food trucks, street food, that's incredible. I mean,
14:39this must make you really proud, right? I'm really proud because it's got a lot of guts,
14:43you know, to do that.
14:51Whoa, okay, okay. I'm gonna serve you the spicy mamba cake.
14:54Mamba cake? Yeah, mamba is a spicy Haitian peanut butter.
14:57You just said the magic word for me, spicy peanut butter.
15:00Spicy, spicy. Haitian peanut butter.
15:01Haitian peanut butter. I like to make spicy and sweet, you know,
15:04it's so salty and sweet, something different.
15:06I love it. I mean, like, one of my favorite things about Haitian food culture is the peanut butter.
15:13The fire roasted peanuts and scotch bonnet peppers of mamba give a fantastic kick to a cake inspired
15:20by the French bouche de noël, pairing beautifully with its layers of sponge and chocolatey cream.
15:28It's like there's so much going on there, right? Like that earthy peanut butter taste.
15:32Salty, but not salty. A little bit sweet.
15:35A little sweet.
15:40So, Angela, things are really happening with the Asian culture here,
15:44and it feels like there's... Haitian food is having a moment.
15:47Our parents opened the doors, and then we opened, like, the path,
15:55and then the kids opened the shops, you know?
15:57Yeah, yeah, the second generation kids, you know?
15:59Yeah. Now it's easier to make that dream come true, and we have resources.
16:05But really, I mean, Angela, I think the sky is the limit.
16:09The sky is not the limit, man.
16:10You can see the sky, you can see beyond it.
16:12Okay, beyond the sky.
16:13Yeah.
16:13Yeah.
16:14Amazing.
16:14Nighttime in Montreal, the city winds down, but downtown, the restaurants are humming.
16:31And in the Place des Arts, I'm heading to taste the food of another celebrated chef.
16:35Paul Touissant is shattering the cultural glass ceiling by uniting strong Haitian flavors
16:49with the romance of French dining.
16:51I'm in the cultural hub of Place des Arts to visit a restaurant of a chef who's united the
17:07vibrant flavors of Haitian cuisine with the romance and finesse of French technique to create Kamui,
17:14one of the most exciting restaurants in the city.
17:17It highlights Haitian cuisine and culture to a level rarely seen in dining.
17:24Vicky, how are you?
17:25I'm spotting yourself.
17:26So nice to see you.
17:28Spotlighting Haitian culture is what entrepreneur and business coach Vicky Joseph is all about.
17:35She often works with restaurants like Kamui on events to boost their profile.
17:38I mean, being at the Place des Arts, like at the center of the city, it's amazing.
17:45Even for me, coming from, you know, the Haitian culture, for me to see, like, you know,
17:50all the vibrance today in the middle of Montreal is just resonating even more.
17:58Yeah, right to the core.
17:59Right to the core.
18:00Yeah.
18:02And in the kitchen,
18:02Chef Paul Toussaint works with his team to unite that Haitian warmth and spark.
18:13With a little bit of French flair.
18:20Paul originally came here from Haiti to study law, but changed course to culinary college
18:24when he realized his true passion was food and he fell in love with Montreal.
18:28His poisson-free reimagines traditional fried snapper by grilling it
18:37and adding a tangy passion fruit butter, serving it with crisp watercress and spinach.
18:44Whoa.
18:46Whoa.
18:46Oh, my God.
18:49It's tangy.
18:51This is like, you know, Michelin level.
18:52Ah.
18:53Absolutely.
18:53Like, this should win awards in terms of the way it's presented.
18:56The flavors are familiar, right?
18:57But it's presented in a different way.
18:59A different way.
19:00Ooh.
19:02Should we dig it into our, yeah, Jambalaya John John?
19:09For his Jambalaya John John, Paul shakes up the Southern classic with house-made sausage
19:14and the rare Haitian black mushroom John John, known for its deep umami flavor.
19:20Then he finishes the dish with fresh shrimp and mussels.
19:23It's spectacular.
19:26This is the John John Jambalaya.
19:30Make with love.
19:31This looks incredible.
19:38Reminds me of, obviously, risotto and the way it feels, but the flavors are just so deep
19:44and the spicing is like, there's a little kick, you know, like it hits you with, you know, every forkful.
19:50Hey, Paul, this is slow.
19:52This is incredible.
19:53It's slow.
19:54Yeah.
19:54This is exactly, that's what we were saying.
19:56You could feel it, you see it.
19:58So what inspired you to express Haitian food this way?
20:02The love for cooking, like it's come from Haiti.
20:05I always say that because I think the fact I grew up in Haiti till I was 20, like they feed you,
20:11they feed your soul with, with the food, you know, is that gonna stay in here?
20:15What I learned from cooking here in Montreal is picture, you know, presentation and all that.
20:22When I'm home, I'm home.
20:23Yeah.
20:24I want my mom to cook for me perfectly.
20:26I want all that, but when I'm here, I want it to be like the best of the best.
20:31You want to play.
20:32I can create.
20:35Well, I mean, this represents your life experience, but also like your creative spirit too.
20:38Yeah, because I'm a funky guy.
20:40I want to enjoy everyone, like, you know, sitting together.
20:44Like Asian meet with the Caribbean, with the Canadian.
20:49It's not only Haitian people that comes here. That's what's strong with this restaurant.
20:54Haitian food is so warm, you know, kind of like resembles everybody around the table.
21:01I mean, that really speaks to the Haitian community.
21:02It's unity as strength.
21:06The Haitian spirit of unity, relying on friends, family and community,
21:11and also bringing flavors and cultures together, has not only created a cuisine of strength in Montreal,
21:17it's created a legacy.
21:20Truly, L'Union fell a force.
21:32Just live this way, because I'm going to be alleys.
21:34Well finally, let's practice surfacing.
21:34You're checking up everything that's solar.
21:37And when I find an interesting story, we're all set on top of your memories!
21:39Firstly, you're seeing these things хорошies.
21:46Really good, darling.
21:46Bye-bye.
21:48Bye-bye.
21:51Bye.
21:51Bye.
21:52Bye.
21:52Bye-bye.
21:53Bye-bye.
21:57Bye-bye.
22:00Bye-bye.
22:00Bye-bye, bye-bye.
22:01Bye-bye.
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