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Great Continental Railway Journeys - S09E13 - Huvösvölgy to Kobanya

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00:01I'm embarking on a new series of railway journeys,
00:06exploring Europe's most beautiful and historic regions.
00:10Ooh, we're about to set off.
00:14From Belgium.
00:15Oh, I'm loving this.
00:20To Hungary.
00:23This is amazing.
00:25And the islands of Sardinia.
00:30Fantastic.
00:31And Corsica.
00:34I'll enjoy nature, history, culture and fun
00:38in some of Europe's most enchanting places.
00:44I am looking forward to a tremendous railway adventure.
01:05I'm enjoying a railway tour of Hungary.
01:09And today I'm exploring Budapest.
01:16I'll visit the home of a composer who is the pride of Hungarians,
01:21driven into exile by Nazism.
01:23If communism left one charming legacy, it's a railway run by children.
01:29And if one thing indicates how far behind in their past Hungarians have left communism,
01:35it's their leisure airline.
01:37People who were once locked behind the Iron Curtain can now whiz about at will.
01:46My journey has brought me from the far north-west to the capital.
01:50I'll head south towards the border with Serbia and explore the Buk Mountains of the north,
01:56ending my travels in the vast grasslands of the great Hungarian plain.
02:00Using its impressive rail network, I'll discover how Hungary's eventful past and vibrant culture
02:07have made it the nation that it is today.
02:21This morning I'm starting in Huvarsvål, just outside the city in the hills to the west of the Danube.
02:30The forests here are a popular destination for hikers.
02:34It's also the northern terminus of a most surprising railway.
02:40All the staff on this scenic single-gauge line, except for the train drivers,
02:45are children aged between 10 and 14.
02:49The day starts at 8 with roll call.
02:55Children's Railway obviously combines discipline and patriotism.
03:01Let's hear the things of the night which is a great duty.
03:05Look at the city of the night and hy bize.
03:05And while still you have the work of my development,
03:08the wealth of people who are the most successful to come,archive
03:11to come. Be careful.
03:13Drs et
03:13to the ten.
03:14Flag raised, anthem sung, it's time to run the railway.
03:23Originally known as the Pioneer Railway,
03:26it was modelled on a Soviet service run by a youth organisation called the Young Pioneers.
03:31Launched by the Hungarian Communist Party in 1950,
03:35it was designed to train the workers of the future.
03:37There were once more than 50 children's railways across the Eastern Bloc and Soviet Union,
03:43many of which are still running today.
03:4618-year-old youth leader Lili Gallon-Bosch joined the railway when she was 11.
03:51Lili, hello.
03:52Hi.
03:53I'm Michael.
03:53I'm Lili, nice to meet you.
03:55You've been working on the railway for a number of years, but tell me how it all started for you.
03:59Well, when I was 10, my parents and I came to visit the railway, only as tourists,
04:04but when I first saw it, I instantly fell in love with the whole atmosphere.
04:09Were you someone who was interested in railways? Did you have a model railway, perhaps?
04:12Not at all.
04:13I was more of the princess type of girl, and my parents were very confused and surprised
04:19when I told them that I wanted to work on the railway.
04:22But for me, it's the community, really.
04:24The thing that first caught my eye was the huge responsibility that Sondá showed us.
04:30All these kids are treated as adults, even though they are 10 or 11 years old.
04:35You had to go through a lot of training.
04:37Was there a moment when you felt like giving up?
04:39There's a four-month course when you start working here, where you learned every inch
04:45and every bit of the railway system and all the names of the parts of the trains.
04:53And, well, that was hard.
04:54But in the end, it really was worth it.
04:57The children are on the trains, the children are in the ticket offices.
05:01Adults drive the trains.
05:02Do children make safety-critical decisions?
05:06They do, actually.
05:07They decide when trains can leave, when they can arrive.
05:10They are signalling to each other and signalling to the trains.
05:14So, yes, it is critical that they pay attention all the time to all the little details.
05:20And tell me about what skills you've learned.
05:24Well, it taught me responsibility, how to handle difficulties.
05:28We learn how to respectfully talk to each other, talk to adults, how to handle money, huge amounts of money,
05:35because there's a lot of income in a summer day when there's a lot of tourists.
05:39What's your present position with the railway?
05:41I became a youth leader when I was 14, and our job is to make sure all the kids are
05:47safe, that they are here on time.
05:50People who have been kids on this railway, are there examples of them enjoying great success?
05:57Well, for example, the deputy pressman of the National Railway of Hungary has been a kid here.
06:05Also, lots of kids who work there later become engineers, or they go work at the public transport company of
06:12Budapest.
06:13Is your future in railways?
06:15I don't think so, but I will definitely use the skills I've obtained here.
06:23We want to go to the first train of the first train of the first train of the first train
06:28of the first train.
06:36The hourly trains run all year round, and with a maximum speed of just 12 miles an hour,
06:43the 45-minute journey is a popular way to enjoy the scenery.
06:52Much of the route seems to be through forest.
06:56Well, it's called the Buddha Forest, and this railway line connects lots of sightseeing points
07:04and the viewpoints of Budapest.
07:06It's one of the most beautiful parts of the city.
07:09I saw this morning the children put up the flag.
07:13Is patriotism an important part of the railway and what you learn on the railway?
07:18It is.
07:19I think it creates a sense of community among the kids,
07:22and it teaches them discipline and how to work together and how to work as a team.
07:30More than 15,000 children from all over Hungary have been employed by the railway since it began.
07:36Hello, can I have your tickets, please?
07:38But only those achieving top grades at school can apply,
07:41and work shifts every fortnight during school terms and holidays.
07:46Hello, can I have your tickets, please?
07:50Have a very nice trip.
07:53Hello, good morning. Can I have your tickets, please?
07:56Yes, of course.
08:00Thank you very much.
08:01My name is Michael. What's yours?
08:03My name is Vincent.
08:05Do you have a moment to have a chat?
08:06Have a seat.
08:09How old are you, Vincent?
08:11I'm 13 years old.
08:13What are your duties today?
08:15I'm now a ticket inspector, and if a passenger doesn't have a ticket, then I give a ticket for him.
08:23On other days, do you have different duties?
08:25Yes, yes.
08:27There is dispatcher who dispatches the train, and we can be a cashier, or we can be a switch inspector.
08:35Why did you join the railway?
08:36Oh, yeah, since I was a little kid, I loved trains too much, I think, too much.
08:43And it was a big dream of me.
08:46And has it been as you hoped, as you expected?
08:49It's better. It's way better than that.
09:00The idea of children running a railway originated under communism, but judging by the kids and young adults that I've
09:10met today,
09:11it proves its worth in the modern time, because they are so mature and so prepared for life.
09:18And what's more, an outing on this railway is cute and memorable.
09:25The end of the line here at Session E Hill is over 1,000 feet above Budapest.
09:31A couple of minutes' walk away, I can make my descent on yet another unusual service.
09:55Beautiful villas sprang up on the hills above Budapest, but until the late 19th century, they were very difficult to
10:02reach.
10:03The solution turned out to be something very recently invented, and Swiss engineers arrived here and built what was only
10:11the third cog railway in Europe when it opened in 1874.
10:18It's a journey back in time for visitors, but having been refurbished in the 1960s, it's used by commuters travelling
10:26from the peaks to downtown Budapest.
10:42From the busy city centre, I'm heading to the residential 2nd District.
10:49In this peaceful neighbourhood of tree-lined streets and historic villas, I'm on the trail of a national hero and
10:57one of Hungary's musical icons.
11:02Some time ago, I attended the unveiling of a statue to the Hungarian composer Biela Bartók outside South Kensington Underground
11:10Station in London.
11:11He was a frequent visitor between the wars, but his home in Budapest was here.
11:20The statue in Kensington is a replica of this one.
11:25Although Bartók would die in the United States during the Nazi occupation of Europe, there's no doubt at all that
11:32his heart remained in his native land, whose popular music he adored and championed.
11:50The celebrated composer and concert pianist, one of the greats of the 20th century, created many of his most famous
11:58works here.
11:59His former home is now a museum, and the director is Zoltan Farkash.
12:06The house is quite grand. Does this mean that Bartók was quite well off?
12:12Well, he was quite rich at that time when he lived here, because it was his last home in Hungary.
12:17The Bartók family lived here from 1932 to 1940.
12:22But it was not his property. He rented this house.
12:26It was his most comfortable and most pleasant accommodation in his life.
12:31Where had he been born?
12:33He was born in Nagy-Szent-Miklós. Now his settlement belongs to Romania.
12:38When he was born, Hungary was much bigger, so he lived in Ukraine, Slovakia, and later on he moved to
12:45Budapest.
12:47Bartók was taught to play the piano by his mother and began to compose music from the age of nine.
12:54In 1903, he graduated from the Royal Hungarian Academy of Music.
13:00Tell me about this inspiration that he found in folk music.
13:04He started as a late Romantic composer.
13:07His teacher was influenced by Brahms, Johannes Brahms.
13:10But once he heard a song of a mage servant somewhere in Upper Hungary,
13:17and he realised how beautiful music is, he called it peasant song.
13:22These melodies didn't fit to the European classical tradition of the harmony,
13:29so he had to invent new harmonies.
13:32Among the composers who were inspired by folk music, he was the greatest, in my opinion.
13:39Early in his career, Bartók began touring Hungary to record a huge collection of folk songs on a phonograph.
13:47The singer or the peasant player have to play here.
13:52One single cylinder can preserve some three minutes.
13:56In a village he could record a hundred.
13:59And then the same machine was used to play the music back again?
14:01Yes, absolutely.
14:03The only difference is that you have to change the stylus to playback stylus.
14:09Because the cutting stylus could ruin the previous recordings.
14:13You could play back only ten or twelve times,
14:17because every playback ruined a bit the surface of this cylinder.
14:22Does any of the music that Bartók recorded survive?
14:26Yes, many of them, there are some which are more damaged, but you can hear the melody,
14:32so you have the sense of being in 1909 with Bartók and listening to this peasant singer.
14:41He was quite successful in his lifetime.
14:43I mean, for example, I know that he was often in London playing.
14:46Yes, in 1922, there was a recital with violin player Jelli Aranyi,
14:53and they produced his first sonata for violin and piano.
14:58And they repeated this concert in Paris.
15:01Everybody was present who was important.
15:04I mean, Stravinsky, Boris Ravel, who turned the pages when Bartók played the piano.
15:11So it was one of his great European successes.
15:17Under its leader, Miklos Horthy, Hungary supported Nazi Germany.
15:23Bartók, although not Jewish, became an outspoken critic of the ruler and his anti-Semitic laws.
15:30Tell me a little bit about the circumstances in which he left Hungary.
15:35The political events was rather terrible in the continent.
15:41And after 1933, Bartók couldn't bear the political atmosphere.
15:47In 1940, he left for the United States with his wife, Dita.
15:52He died in the United States.
15:54How do Hungarians think of Biela Bartók?
15:56Hungarians heard that Bartók died after the Second World War.
16:00It was a tragical moment.
16:03And Bartók is the person who made it possible that the Hungarian culture could address the whole world.
16:11Because Bartók's language is universal.
16:13One of the most important reasons I am proud that I am Hungarian is Bartók.
16:21Bartók's music is enjoyed by visitors from all around the world in the museum's concert hall.
16:29Today, renowned young Hungarian pianist, Fulop Ránki, is going to play for us.
16:53This piece is an excerpt from 15 Hungarian peasant songs for piano, completed in 1918.
16:59Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki.
17:20Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki.
17:46Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki.
17:48Fulop Ránki, Fulop Ránki.
17:48Philip, thank you so much.
17:49That was wonderful.
17:56This afternoon, I wend my way just south of the city centre.
18:11Since I've been in Budapest, I've noticed that the traffic is very heavy.
18:15And of course, like everywhere, particularly bad when it rains.
18:18This is the great advantage of the tram.
18:20You go whooshing past the traffic.
18:23The journey times are cut by two-thirds.
18:42Here on the Danube, I've come to discover how a post-communist start-up has become one of Hungary's largest
18:48and best-known companies.
18:52After the fall of the Iron Curtain, those countries which had been under Soviet control opened up to tourism and
18:59their citizens could travel freely abroad.
19:02And Western Airlines quickly seized the opportunity.
19:07But as capitalism returned to Central and Eastern Europe, a new rival emerged.
19:13Wiz Air Hungary, founded in 2003.
19:17A shock to the market in shocking pink.
19:21From its beginnings in the former Eastern Bloc, the company is now a global business, with branches in the United
19:28Kingdom, Malta and Dubai, employing an international team of more than 8,000 people.
19:34I'm meeting corporate officer Yvonne Moynihan.
19:38I'm Michael.
19:40Hi, Michael.
19:41Great to see you with this beautiful view.
19:44What were the factors that made it possible to found an airline based in Hungary in Budapest?
19:49It was born out of EU policy.
19:52So in 2004, we had the historic EU enlargement.
19:57And there were 10 countries from Eastern Europe which were joined to the EU, including Hungary.
20:02So that was an occasion for the Central and Eastern European region to democratise aviation.
20:10So people who'd been confined behind the Iron Curtain from about 1990, 1991, they're free to travel.
20:17And they've seized that opportunity, haven't they?
20:18Exactly.
20:19We took the opportunity to offer low fares to customers who had never travelled before.
20:26Now the largest airline in Central and Eastern Europe, its direct flights to over 50 countries are monitored here in
20:34the control room.
20:35Michael Delahant is the Chief Operations Officer.
20:40Michael, we're in a room which manages to be very busy and very quiet at the same time.
20:45This is essentially the central nervous system of our daily operations.
20:50From where we need to have our aircraft to where we need to have our crews to how the airports
20:54and the ground handlers manage.
20:55And I guess a lot of that actually is about resolving problems that arise.
20:59Certainly.
21:00Everything from weather to, unfortunately, the things we're seeing nowadays with modern wars.
21:05And the operation is getting bigger?
21:08It is.
21:09We're up to about 220 aircraft now and we aspire to be at over 500 by the time we end
21:15the decade.
21:16Wow.
21:16That is quite a rate of growth.
21:18Now, I see here a familiar flag.
21:22Why are we flying the Union Jack on this desk?
21:24Hello.
21:25Hello.
21:26My name is Michael.
21:27Hello, Michael, nice to meet you.
21:28My name is Istvan.
21:29I'm the one responsible for taking care and oversee the UK operations.
21:33What kind of actions do you take?
21:35Let's suppose that one of those weather systems disrupts your sector.
21:39Weather occurrences around London always give me some headache.
21:43But we have a department for taking care of the routings and they're the one looking for alternatives.
21:50A few miles away, on the outskirts of the city, the airline staff are sent for training with instructor Niko
21:57Ziba.
21:59Niko, what an extraordinary place. I'm Michael.
22:01Hello, nice to meet you.
22:03Here you have quite a large section of aircraft fuselage. What training do you do in there?
22:09Yeah, this is the cabin emergency evacuation trainer and believe or not, but it was a real aircraft.
22:14It was flying in Brazil like 20 years ago.
22:17We are training our crews here for emergency evacuation, door operation and even we teach them how to save the
22:25pilot's life if it's needed.
22:26How to move them from the flight deck compartment.
22:29Let me show you.
22:32For the cabin crews to be fully prepared should the worst happen, the training has to be as realistic as
22:38possible.
22:41Well, well, well. I mean, I couldn't tell I'm not on a real aircraft.
22:44Feel free to take a seat. Yeah, everything is real here. All the switches, all the lights, all the handles,
22:50because training is the most important part for our airline to be ready for the unexpected to be able to
22:56save life.
22:57OK, let me show you an emergency scenario.
23:00I'm ready. OK, let me be your cabin crew today.
23:05And actually, I'm controlling everything from this tablet.
23:08So, let's start with the pushback. It can be a rainy weather, for example.
23:13You can even hear the rain. Let's start the taxiing. Engines are running already. OK, then let's take off.
23:25This is amazing. Did you used to work on aircraft yourself?
23:30I'm still flying. That's my passion, actually. I cannot put down my wings.
23:35Were you very early at this airline?
23:38I was the very first cabin attendant more than 20 years ago. I started my carrier here.
23:43OK, we reached our cruising altitude. Guess how many seconds do we have to empty a whole aircraft of 240
23:51passengers?
23:5290.
23:54It's 90.
23:55Is it really?
23:56Yeah.
23:58Pure guesswork.
23:59You're right. It's 90 seconds, one and a half minute. And imagine only four, five cabin attendants.
24:04Therefore, we need to be very, very loud.
24:07Yeah.
24:07Please just follow what you hear.
24:09OK. So, there will be a nose gear collapse.
24:13Horrid. Imagine this happening.
24:16I will be the pilots as well today.
24:23Brace. Brace.
24:24Brace position. Brace position.
24:31Brace position.
24:34Bend down, protect your head, emergency, emergency.
24:38This is important.
24:39Open your seatbelts, open your seatbelts.
24:43Get out, get out, leave your luggage,
24:46leave your luggage, jump and slide, jump and slide.
24:51Get out, leave your luggage, leave your luggage.
24:56Do you know that was genuinely stressful?
24:59Is it? Genuinely stressful, yes.
25:00But did you see the pressure as well?
25:02Yeah, I felt the real pressure, of course.
25:03And that must be fantastic training for your people.
25:07Having made it through the emergency landing,
25:10in an adjacent chamber, I'm going to have a go at flying a plane.
25:16Oh, my goodness.
25:18I feel now I'm in science fiction.
25:20We've got enormous three-legged monsters.
25:23Yeah, three full-flight simulators,
25:25which are working day and night, 24 hours.
25:29I'll be taking off in this virtual Airbus A320.
25:33Under the expert guidance of pilot instructor Attila Tavari.
25:37Hi, Attila. Hello. I'm Michael.
25:39Very nice to meet you, Michael. And welcome to the training centre.
25:42Thank you so much. This looks very exciting.
25:45This is extraordinarily realistic.
25:48We appear to be at London Gatwick, and we're on runway 26L.
25:53We have the clearance. Aircraft is ready. Let's roll.
25:56First, you need to release the parking brake.
25:58And then the next one, you need to advance the thrust levers to the second click.
26:02Right. Goodness gracious. We're zooming down the runway.
26:06Frightening thought that I'm sort of in control of this thing.
26:10You can just lift the nose of the aircraft now.
26:14Whoa. And we lift off.
26:16Wow.
26:18That is stunning.
26:19We're looking out over the Sussex countryside,
26:21towards the English Channel.
26:23And we are just levelling off.
26:25We are at 1,200 feet.
26:27You can bring the thrust levers back to one.
26:30Don't sink.
26:31Don't sink.
26:33What can I do now?
26:34We can just pull back.
26:36Try to turn, move it either side, left or right.
26:38Very nice flying. Very gentle.
26:41And if you are happy, shall we try landing?
26:430.8. This is our work vehicle speed.
26:46This is the glide path and the localizer giving you the center line of the runway.
26:51And you are clear to land.
26:53Gatwick is ahead of me.
26:57We need to slow down the descent rate just before the runway.
26:59200.
27:00Whenever we land, then you need to bring the thrust levers back to idle.
27:04100.
27:05Pull a little bit back, just a tiny bit.
27:0750, 40, 30.
27:09Very nice. Let it go.
27:10Very nice.
27:12Very nice. Close down. Beautiful.
27:16Congratulations on your first landing.
27:18Quite a hard landing, but we actually made it. Thank you so much, Attila.
27:31Biela Bartok was born in a part of Hungary that's now Romania.
27:36When after the First World War, the countries of Eastern Europe and the Balkans gained their independence,
27:43millions of Hungarians found themselves living as minorities in new countries.
27:49Biela Bartok left Hungary to escape Nazism, which murdered hundreds of thousands of his countrymen.
27:56And then came communism.
27:58After the terrible experiences of the 20th century, Hungary can perhaps be frivolous in the 21st,
28:05in the 21st century.
28:15It was built for the royal couple, Franz Josef and his wife, Elisabeth.
28:22The rabbi now changes his clothes. He's going to give me a great privilege now.
28:28He'll be lighting the candles and he'll be opening the curtain to reveal the Torah.
28:34My bones are being rattled. There's no heating. The seats are hard and made of wood and it's enormous fun.
28:45He'll be owning your mind.
28:45The elite fleet
28:45the
28:45the
28:45the
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