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Follow Refinery29 to Downtown Los Angeles’ infamous Santee Alley shopping district, where you'll find dozens of displays bursting with hot-ticket fake makeup items like Kylie Lip Kits, Anastasia Beverly Hills highlighters, and MAC lipsticks. Ten years ago, this stretch was the place to go for knock-off handbags — and if they weren't already out in the open, all you had to do was ask. Today, there isn't a fake purse in sight; they've all been replaced by contouring palettes.

Read the complete article here -
http://refinery29.com/2017/08/165109/fake-makeup-trend-mac-kylie-cosmetics

ABOUT SERIES
Shady is the side of the beauty world you haven't seen. Hosted by Refinery29 Senior Beauty Editor, Lexy Lebsack, the series swivels between the unexpected and uplifting, dives deep into the dark underbelly of beauty, gives a voice to those trampled by this quickly growing industry, and questions what it’s all worth. From counterfeit makeup to skin trafficking for cosmetic procedures, we go there.

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TALENT
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Transcript
00:03So we're going to meet the undercover operatives right now, make the buy, walk away, hand me the
00:07product that they purchased. If anything happens, I'm supposed to go into the bank immediately.
00:12Is this the black market? It's counterfeit goods. It's illegal activity. It's black market.
00:16This is Shady. This winter, I got a tip that made my jaw drop. Car tables on the street in
00:24downtown Los Angeles lined with just-released in-demand beauty products at a fraction of
00:29the retail price, things that had just hit stores. And even to the beauty editor, they
00:34look totally authentic. So what's the deal? I headed downtown to see for myself.
00:47This is fake, but the good kind.
00:49So we can cut through to the alley here. Do you want to?
00:54All right, so we just walked to Dasanthi alley and we're going to look around.
01:07The prices in Santiali are astounding. It appears that MAC lipstick is going for $2? Urban Decay
01:13palettes for $15 instead of $50? So what's the catch?
01:17Some people are makeup artists that come down here.
01:19Really? Oh my gosh.
01:23So she says that makeup artists come down here and buy a lot of this stuff.
01:29The majority of the people we're talking to down here don't want to be on camera,
01:32but we found one woman who might talk to us. So we're going to go try to find her.
01:38So you have every brand that everyone wants. You have Too Faced, MAC, Kylie.
01:45How much, for example, is a Kylie lip kit here? It's $6.
01:49$6. And then how do you sell them for so much less than you would find them like on Kylie's
01:55website,
01:55for example? Well, not lying, everything's from China.
02:00How do you get it? Where do you order it from? Highline.
02:02Okay. A lot of people can afford a $30 lipstick.
02:06You know, so $5, $3, it's perfect to pay that. Yeah.
02:11I heard people be having reactions on things, but complaints, no. I use them myself.
02:17Oh, you do? Do you ever get scared that you don't know what's in it,
02:19or like what the conditions are like in China where they make it?
02:23Me, I think everything's just a lie. I think everything's come from the same wear, same thing.
02:28So you think a lot of the stuff that you're buying from China is replica, or they're just the same
02:34stuff?
02:35It's just the same stuff. That's what I think. Because I use it. I see the original. I see the
02:39fake.
02:39And I really don't see a lot of things that are different. You just save more money.
02:44Yeah.
02:45According to sellers, this is the secret to getting cult products at rock bottom prices.
02:50But are they really the same? To find out, I headed to the beauty capital of the country.
02:59If it feels like the beauty industry has exploded overnight, it's because you're right. The makeup
03:04category grew by 12% in 2016, and the $445 billion per year industry is growing at a steady rate
03:12of 3%
03:13per year and has proven to be recession-proof. To fulfill the demand, conglomerates like Estee
03:18Lauder and L'Oreal are purchasing indie brands at a record rate. The result is a palpable demand for
03:24expensive luxury beauty products, an atmosphere perfect for counterfeiting.
03:29It's a huge problem, and it seems to be getting bigger. I would compare this industry to, say,
03:34a drug trafficking organization. Some of the things, some of the items we've examined have been found to
03:40contain lead, arsenic, mercury, even horse urine. How are the products getting into the country?
03:46They usually come into our seaport, and then from there, they're offloaded and taken to various
03:52distribution points. We do our investigations, and we work our way back, and for the most part,
03:59it takes us to China. To find out just how easy it is to get the goods in bulk, we
04:05sent an undercover
04:06reporter into a cosmetics market in Guangzhou, a major manufacturing hub in China. Turns out,
04:12it's as easy as walking into the right store, which was the first one we tried.
04:17This is a half stock. Can I see? You need a person of a business?
04:22Well, first, I have to see the quality. Quality similar to Mac. You can ship to the US?
04:28Yes. You know what they make it with? Like, is it animal fat? Or, you know, is it just like
04:33the real?
04:34Same product? Same ingredients? A little bit different. A little bit different?
04:50Actually, what's inside is very different. The FBI reports that counterfeit cosmetics have been
04:56found to contain dangerous levels of bacteria, and reported reactions include acne, psoriasis,
05:02serious skin rashes, and eye infections. What's more, these reactions can take days to show up,
05:08which means the counterfeit products don't always get the blame they deserve.
05:13Estee Lauder seized over 2.6 million counterfeit Mac products in 2016 alone. Back in New York,
05:20we met with the man in charge of its global security team.
05:23What does the dark underbelly of this look like?
05:26I traveled to China, to Guangzhou, a couple of years ago, and my team took me around to some of
05:32the locations where these products are made, and it's just unsanitary conditions. I mean,
05:38there's no quality control. There's no, well, this doesn't right. Meet the test. Let's take it off
05:43the line. You wouldn't eat there, let alone make products there for distribution.
05:48This is just a taste of the kind of conditions that Estee Lauder's global security team finds when
05:54raiding counterfeit factories both overseas and in the U.S.
06:00MAC has such a massive problem with counterfeiting that they actually have an entire division that's
06:07set up just to try to combat it. And they have a private investigator who sort of heads finding the
06:14people who are selling it on the streets. So we are going to meet with this person now. Go.
06:21I'm driving in New York right now for the first time, so I'm going to try to get us there.
06:28This is Jimmy, Estee Lauder's private investigator. He's the real deal, and not just because people
06:33compare him to Tony Soprano. He's ex-military, served 20 years in the NYPD, and now he's hired by
06:39huge corporations to get knockoffs off the street. He's going to be showing us just how they fight
06:43counterfeiting right here in New York City. A company like Estee Lauder will reach out to me.
06:48They have an anti-counterfeiting program. What we'll do is we'll investigate leads and determine if
06:53they're counterfeit and conduct an investigation and then present it to the police. So I'm going to
06:58guess that you're not on the street buying beauty products from the counterfeiters. I do not think I'd be
07:03effective in my role to buy beauty products. In order to deliver a counterfeiting case to the police on a
07:10silver platter, Estee Lauder does the legwork. For example, Mac gets tipped off about suspicious
07:15products, often by consumers through social media. The global security team develops the leads,
07:21then they often hand them over to a private investigator. A case is developed using undercover
07:25operatives, often criminal justice students who fit an average buyer's age. Undercover footage
07:30seals the deal, and the products are inspected by a brand rep who completes an affidavit that they're
07:35counterfeit before it's all turned over to the cops. All this just to get a single seller
07:40off the corner.
07:48Hi. Hi. So actually this is Nancy Gordon with Estee Water. Hi. It's so nice to meet you. Nancy is
07:55the
07:55expert in authentication, so she's coming out with us to actually examine the products that we're buying
08:00to confirm that they're counterfeit. They can become agitated. They can become confrontational. They can
08:07escalate it to a physical altercation. So those are all the risks involved in doing an undercover
08:12operation. So they're waiting for us to get there. Okay. And that's when the girls will be waiting.
08:18Okay. Perfect. Hello? Okay. So he's set up. Great. All right, we're on the way. So the vendor is on
08:36the corner.
08:36Okay. At 181 in St. Nick. So we're going to go up there and have the operators make a buy
08:42with you. So our
08:43friend is behind that white truck. Oh, wow. On the opposite side of the corner. He's not in the,
08:50he's not hiding at all. He's just right out there. Right out there like these vendors are on. Yeah. See,
08:55this table is standing right there. I don't want to point to my phone call. All right, listen. I don't
09:05know who
09:05the undercover is. You're the undercover? Uh-huh. The girls are going to try to complain if they
09:08just act like you're dating their brothers. Okay. Like you're from college. Okay. Because you're not
09:12going to fit here. I'm going to stay here. I can see nothing. Yeah. And we're going to get closer
09:16and be careful. If anything happens, I'm supposed to go into the bank immediately.
09:43That's the Anastasia. I've heard this stuff's really good too.
09:47I like the MAC eyeliner. The MAC is the famous one that people like.
09:54Oh. 3 for 20. 3 for 20? 25. 3 for 25. How much for just these?
10:02This is 25. 25? Yeah.
10:12All right. Thank you. Thank you.
10:35So we got all, literally, they bought all of this stuff for $120. And this at the store would just
10:42be
10:43like, it would be hundreds of dollars, like easily. That's wild. I also got a couple things too.
10:51So now, catch Nancy goes for a thing. Can you tell it's counterfeit yet? Oh, sure.
10:58You didn't even open it. You just know. I didn't need to. I can tell by the packaging.
11:06Nancy, what are you thinking about that one?
11:09Pretty obvious. The label. Take a look at how sheer tone is spelled.
11:13Sheer Tione. You guys, they spelt tone wrong on the packaging. Tone. T-I-O-N-E is how they
11:21spelt it.
11:22So, uh, what is the final verdict? Counterfeit.
11:26All of it. So far, but I'm sure that they will be.
11:32What is going to happen to this guy? Well, after the police conduct our investigations, then
11:37make the determinations of our findings, as what we see here, that he is selling counterfeit goods.
11:42He broke the law. So, he will be arrested.
11:46Jimmy was right. The New York seller got arrested by NYPD using the evidence Estee Lauder collected,
11:52and his goods were seized. But he pled down to lesser charges to avoid jail time. It's hard not
11:57to think it was all just a drop in the bucket. All that work for one tabletop of products. So,
12:02what's the long-term solution? Awareness. The consumer must be aware of the counterfeit
12:09ingredients of the products of inferior quality that are out there. Ultimately,
12:14if you eliminate the demand, you address the supply. Some may say that's easier said than done,
12:21especially when the efficacy of our cosmetics seem to be growing less valuable than the name on the
12:25package. So, what's more important? Your skin or the name printed on your makeup? It's just, I think,
12:31the brand. People just want the brand. People just want the brand. It's like a fake Louis Vuitton.
12:36Yeah. People just want to carry a fake Louis Vuitton. Yeah. People just want to carry a fake lipstick.
12:41That's it.
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