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  • 6 weeks ago
How does one of the highest-altitude and most remote fine dining restaurants on Earth create a world-class tasting menu using ingredients found nowhere else? High in the Andes of Peru, Chef-Owner Virgilio Martínez has built MIL around a simple idea: every dish should tell the story of the landscape that surrounds it. Follow Virgilio and his team as they harvest rare Andean ingredients, revive ancient farming traditions, and prepare an eight-course tasting menu sourced almost entirely from the ecosystem around the restaurant.
Transcript
00:00Here we are at a meal at almost 4,000 meters above sea level, which is a lot.
00:08This is a restaurant in the middle of nowhere, in the Andes of Peru,
00:15where you can find ingredients you've never seen before, which for me is the restaurant of the
00:21future. Something unique that is happening in one specific location. Then you start to see
00:27all these different shapes like this, and this, and then like this. For us, this is a potato, but
00:33this could be the real potato. This is a black mashua. Look like a purple carrot, but it's not.
00:44It's like got radish, got spicy, anise as a natural dye. You can see here. These mashas are endemic to
00:54this area. That's why they grow big, full of colors and flavors and aromas. We have also a yellow one,
01:02like this. It's milder.
01:08Yeah, super good. What is the most interesting about mashas is that they give us a sense of place.
01:13When they put this in a plate, it means that we are in Moray. These are okas, and look at
01:19these
01:19beautiful colors. Yeah, if we compare an oka with a mashua, this is a way milder, also softer,
01:28super, super good. And then we also use this in the kitchen. We have this kind of dough. A mix
01:34of
01:34salt, clay, called chaco, chaco clay. Some of the juices of the oka, that's why we have this color. It
01:42becomes this mix to produce an interpretation of the huatia.
01:53What is a huatia? It's a way of eating the harvest, fresh ingredients. You harvest potatoes,
02:00then you start to build this kind of oven. You set the fire with the plants, pour all these
02:07vegetable roots and potatoes, okas, mashas. And then you just break the whole oven and you start
02:18to see tubers and vegetable roots already cooked. And that was for me like a whole concept, you know,
02:26doing something like this in the kitchen. We have purple mashua, yellow mashua,
02:33oka, another kind of oka. We have this red potato. We're going to cover the whole thing like this,
02:42but we need to add a bit more of clay, even more flavor for the huatia, some more of the
02:49salt.
02:50And once we have the huatia in our hands, they're going to be cooked in about, let's say 20 minutes.
03:00So this is the huatia that we think is already cooked. And you see the heat, you see the smoke,
03:06it's going to be amazing. So just with my hands like this, these roots, clean them with our fingers.
03:13The first time I learned about this technique, it was the first time I participate on the harvest
03:18of potatoes. It was a ceremony. It was a sense of gratitude to Mother Earth. It was a sense of
03:24community,
03:24people just laying down in the soil and laughing, singing, eating with your fingers. We don't have
03:30to be scared about dirty soil, clay. I mean, it is actually flavor.
03:37Yeah. One of the sauces made with these local herbs.
03:44Beautiful.
03:46I consider this a blessing for a cook to get to understand the ingredient from the soil.
03:51Once it goes to the kitchen, I think it's too late. Creativity happens in the soil,
03:56creativity happens in this extreme multitude. And I had to meet people up in the mountains,
04:01in the Andes of Peru, to understand, you know, the importance of one potato, one sugar,
04:05because they know the soils and all these ancestral knowledge and techniques and technologies.
04:15Our goal was to grow our own corn. It took us a while, you know, to develop this idea where
04:23we can work together with the farmer. Now we're sharing this into a 50-50 situation. They produce
04:2950 percent of the farm for the homes and the other 50 for the restaurants.
04:42Yeah. Fantastic. How can we do attribute of the color, the flavor, the taste? We cooked this corn and then
04:50we puree. It's a mix of black mashua and corn and we end up having something like this. And now
04:57we're
04:58going to add this to the corn puree. It looks like quite blue. And after a few minutes, this is
05:06going to set.
05:07We take red corn, then we make a puree, dry dehydrate the whole puree. Once it's dry like this,
05:14I'm going to use the fire puff a bit. Super crispy.
05:21Same with the yellow corn. We're doing the same process. So I want to showcase all these different
05:26colors. Here we have the chopped corn and I'm going to add the juices from the red corn.
05:33Yellow chili pepper paste. Trying to play with all these different colors and flavors.
05:38So the presentation goes like crispy corn, purple corn, and then we do this kind of sandwich like this.
05:45The kind of blue corn with red corn, yellow corn, dry corn like this. Crispy, fresh corn.
05:53This is one course, which is part of the tasting menu and immersion into the corn fields.
06:02So this is called kabuya. This is what we call the heart of the kabuya.
06:06That meal is surrounded by these plants. They are everywhere. This is one of the best examples of
06:11these amazing ancient techniques that are getting lost. They go to get this piece. You see here,
06:18we have the part of the roots. This is a long process to get the sweetness out of this. And
06:26now
06:26we're going to get this to the fire. We need the exposure, maybe like 15 hours.
06:34So now this is the kabuya heart. It burned a bit the skin. It's not easy to get sweetness out
06:41of this.
06:42These juices start to caramelize and they end up being something very similar to honey. And after a
06:50long process, we're having this syrup. So it's quite smoky because of the exposure to the smokiness and to
06:56the fire. Anyway, it's pure sweetness and the texture is amazing. So we have more than 20 varieties of quinoa
07:04here in our farm. We're trying to preserve the ones that are not that common. It's quite hard,
07:10you know, because we do everything by hand. Now we need to remove the leaves. We need to remove this
07:17tiny skin that the quinoa has. Doing this by hand is the next level of craft. You end up with
07:26your
07:26hands like this for a week. This is the land of quinoa. Black quinoa, green quinoa, caniwa.
07:32What we prepare is a tasting. This is just white quinoa. Try to make a hole. There it is. I'm
07:39going to go with the kabuya syrup.
07:45Cover with this red one and the yellow one, purple one. And now we're going to add the green one.
07:54Black quinoa and caniwa. Normally people think that quinoa is good for salads and so many other
08:00preparations, but we want to put two things that grow together. The quinoa and the kabuya and make
08:06a dessert. This is quite like a surprise for the guests. They don't know that there's this kabuya
08:12sweetness coming. This idea of becoming number one restaurant in the world. I mean, it's fantastic.
08:21It's good for exposure, but that's not the purpose of what we do. Astronomy is evolving. When you're here,
08:27you start to notice, you know, how important it is to maintain another sense of purpose in life
08:33when you cook. Think again about what's the meaning of fine dining. Maybe the future of the fine dining
08:39is here. For me, you know, returning to Peru has changed the way I see food now.
08:47I'll see you next time.
08:47Bye-bye.
08:48Bye-bye.
08:48Bye-bye.
08:48Bye-bye.
08:49Bye-bye.
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