Explore the historic beauty of the famous Empress Market and President’s Clock Tower in Karachi, Pakistan. These iconic landmarks represent the rich culture, colonial architecture, and vibrant history of Karachi city. Watch the stunning views, busy market scenes, and heritage atmosphere of one of Pakistan’s most popular tourist attractions.
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FunTranscript
00:00Today, under the shadow of the magnificent clock tower, we see people buying vegetables, fruits and spices.
00:07We are talking about Empress Market.
00:09Exactly Empress Market, but perhaps very few people know that in 1857, people were killed with cannons at this very place.
00:20was tied up and blown up
00:22That is, it was a slaughterhouse.
00:24Yes, a slaughterhouse, to hide which a very beautiful and attractive market was built.
00:31So in today's detailed tour, we will visit those layers of this Empire Market located in the heart of Karachi.
00:39We are going to explore the layers that have been hidden for decades.
00:42This is a very important topic because when we look at this market, it is not just a buying market.
00:50Doesn't seem like a mark
00:51Yes, it's more than just a building.
00:54This uninhabitable force is a clear sign of the changes of urban progress and the restlessness of the country.
01:03And in this we mean various newspaper reports, books by the famous historian Gul Hasan Kalmati and expert writer Tania Ali.
01:13Sumro's research includes
01:14True, the purpose is not just to describe the excavation of any historical building.
01:20Rather, from that dreadful date buried in its bricks, which was the Hungama Khij Operation of 2018.
01:28Yes, we have to reach the reality of that Insad Tajawajat operation.
01:34So let's start this bloody date right, away from the current hustle and bustle and the aroma of spices.
01:41Let's turn back the clock for a while
01:44The War of 1857, during the independence movement, was considered treasonous by the British.
01:49Absolutely, and Gulhasan Kalmati's research presents a very interesting picture.
01:57Meaning, the remaining local soldiers of the 21st Native Infantry Regiment were blown to pieces by cannons in the same barren field
02:05Well, that's exactly what happened, and it was a very deliberate and efficient move by the British Empire.
02:14Well, it was a clean sweep, but tell me in detail what actually happened.
02:20See, in 1857, when the fire of rebellion was spreading throughout Bare Saghir, it was also spread in Karachi.
02:28In some places of the regiment, the Pahis planned to revolt against the British.
02:33Well, names like Surajbali Tiwari and Ramdin Pandey were also included in them, right?
02:38Yes, those same people, but their misfortune was that two informants had already informed the British officials.
02:45Bafre, that is, captured before the rebellion began
02:48Of course, these rebel soldiers were arrested and hanged in the same vacant ground where the Empress Market clock stands today.
02:57The tower exists
02:57There, all the mangoes were tied to the mouths of cannons and blown to pieces.
03:03This is a very horrific way of punishment.
03:07I mean, why not just hang him, he could have shot him.
03:11That's the point, being blown up by a cannon wasn't just a death sentence, oh, it was a psychological weapon
03:19Psychological weapons? How is that?
03:21See, the British government wanted to instill terror in the minds of the local population.
03:25When a person is blown up by a cannon, his body is completely torn to pieces.
03:31Well yes, there is nothing left?
03:34Absolutely, which meant that there could be no burial for these rebels.
03:38And according to his religion, his last rites could not be performed.
03:43This was a complete act of erasing existence.
03:47Sure, but wait a minute, here's a question.
03:52If the British were so afraid of rebellion and the local people
03:57So, to control this area, they could have built a military fort or fort there.
04:03This is a very good question
04:06Meaning, why was only one market created?
04:08Do people forget their heroes while eating vegetables and meat?
04:13It was here that the true art of British Navabadi Aati Shahri Mansuba Bandi became visible.
04:19What happened was that the local people quietly started making this place a memorial and a centre of devotion.
04:27had done
04:27So, did people start going there?
04:29Yes, people would come there in the dark of night, light the oil burning fire and treat it like a shrine.
04:36Were
04:37So the British were afraid that this massacre might become a symbol of the conflict.
04:43Of course, that's what they feared; if they built a fort there, the feeling of tension and predation would always remain.
04:50A fort is a symbol of enmity, isn't it?
04:53Yes, a fortress means you're always in a state of war.
04:56In contrast, a market entangles people in their daily routines of life, livelihood and needs.
05:03What a thing, that is, he decided to build such a magnificent public building here.
05:09Which is so captivating that people remember all the old things, that blood and that charaka.
05:15And then the foundation of this building was laid in 1884.
05:19And to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, it was renamed Empress Market.
05:25This means that the Indian ownership market was indeed a very delicate game.
05:32But the building that was built to erase this memory, itself played the role of the fan of construction.
05:37Was
05:37Meaning, as mapped by Chief Municipal Engineer James Trachan
05:41Yes, James Trachan's design is very popular.
05:45And special red stones were brought from Jodhpur area of Rajasthan.
05:49And that 140-foot tall clock tower
05:54surrounded by leopard heads
05:57Yes, those leopard heads still look amazing.
06:02But was this just a British building that was brought and erected there?
06:06No, look, this design by James Trachan wasn't just a display of British power.
06:12This is a masterpiece of pure Indo-Gothic style of construction.
06:17Indo-Gothic? What is it?
06:20It combines British Gothic styles such as tall spires, clock towers and Roman arches with local Hindustani and Mughal styles.
06:29has been mixed
06:30Okay, so both were mixed?
06:33Of course, a very large open courtyard of one hundred thirty by one hundred feet was kept in it which was like a barrack.
06:40Traditional Marathas have a special
06:42Ah, this Indo-Gothic style of construction is like a British officer telling the local people about his
06:50At least wear a shalwar kameez to match it.
06:53But don't forget to top it with a British hat and medals.
06:57You gave us a wonderful picture, it was exactly like that.
07:01So that it is absolutely clear who is the ruler.
07:04Yes, he was following local tradition.
07:07But the center of power was still the clock tower.
07:11which was a symbol of British times and Najmuzbad
07:15You have said correctly
07:16And in this context, research by expert in manufacturing Tania Ali Somro
07:21brings out a very interesting aspect.
07:24Which aspect?
07:25This design reflects the religious and social sentiments of local buyers.
07:30How carefully the weave was taken
07:33Oh, you're talking about that special secret part of the beef?
07:38Yes, a special chamber was built in Empress Market for the sale of beef.
07:45And it was kept covered with a curtain.
07:48So that the sentiments of Hindu buyers who consider cows sacred are not hurt.
07:55Well, and they can shop at the rest of the Bila Jizg Bazaar
07:59Of course, that's what the purpose is.
08:01I have a bit of a doubt here.
08:04In what context?
08:05Was this just a show of respect for his strong feelings?
08:10Or maybe the British simply wanted there to be no religious conflict.
08:14and their market continues
08:16Because in a capitalist system, the most important things are profit and peace, right?
08:22Your question is very valid
08:24This is pure Atan Naubadiya capitalism
08:28That is, the mechanism of colonial capitalism was
08:32Meaning he was not concerned about emotions?
08:34No, the British did not intend to disrespect local religions.
08:39Rather, his aim was to create such an economic eco system
08:44Where people of different religions and communities can trade without any conflict.
08:50Yes, because if meat caused trouble, the basic purpose of the market would be lost.
08:56That means sacrificing life and wealth for that slaughter?
09:00That purpose would have failed, of course. Therefore, these curtains and sealed chambers are actually an administrative tactic to maintain peace.
09:08Were
09:10This means that when the market was fully opened in 1889, it was a highly organized, clean market.
09:18And British poetry was a specimen of confiscation
09:21Yes, and at that time there were a total of 280 shops.
09:25Only 280, but most of us, more or less today's generation, have always considered the Empire Market a
09:34I have seen it only as a huge crowded and disorderly market
09:39That is it
09:40So how did this magnificent and well-prepared building turn into a mess like a matchbox?
09:45To understand this, we need to look at the city's demographic changes and urban sprawl.
09:53Meaning the time after 2947
09:55Yes, after the domination of Pakistan, there was a tremendous increase in the population of Karachi.
10:01Millions of Muhajireen came to the city
10:03And that British model with 280 shops could not meet the needs of this not-so-twenty population.
10:10Under this very pressure, in 1954, the Karachi Municipal Corporation (KMC) decided to enter the market.
10:21And this is where things started changing, they increased the number of shops inside to 405 and outside to about
10:281390 more shops and cabins were built
10:32But the matter did not stop here.
10:34What happened after that
10:35The formal economy has swallowed this historic building from all sides.
10:39Yes, this unceremonious life is not created under any intention.
10:43Of course, it flourishes according to the needs and wants of the people.
10:49When the state institutions fail to provide employment and trade
10:54So people create their own worlds.
10:57Right, and that's what happened around Empress Market.
11:00It became more than a market, a complete and self-sufficient monastic system.
11:06Let us briefly describe this system so that the listeners can understand its reality.
11:11Sure
11:12On one side were colorful mountains of spices.
11:15From where came the strong aroma of turmeric, coriander and red chilli which permeated the entire area.
11:22And the other one was Bird Market.
11:25were being sold
11:26And right next to it is the Rainbow Centre
11:29It quickly emerged as Asia's largest CD and DVD market.
11:35It was all so dense and interconnected.
11:39That he could barely make it through the market streets to the magnificent 140-foot clock tower
11:46This incident was a race where a new date was being written on top of the date.
11:52That newly inhabited house had gone into the background
11:55And before it was the living reality of thousands of hard workers, shopkeepers and buyers.
12:02A non-funny but very interesting fact on the maternal side
12:07But then this crowded system, which lasted for decades, suffered a severe blow in 2018.
12:14Yes, the operation of the two thousand and eighteenth incident.
12:17Yes, a campaign was launched against Tajawazat in Karachi on the orders of the Supreme Court.
12:23Its biggest centre was this Empress Market.
12:28Reports indicate that more than seventy shops in and around the market have been demolished.
12:34And the employment of approximately four thousand people, who were repeatedly linked to this market, was lost.
12:40While reviewing this incident, we will have to look at all these opposing aspects completely impartially.
12:47Meaning what is coming from both sides?
12:49Yes, renowned experts of Shehri Mansooba Bandi like Dr. Naeem Ulhaq and Dr. Nouman Ahmed have strictly advised on this operation.
12:58criticized
12:58What was his stance?
12:59His position was very clear that this was a poor enemy.
13:04The issue before him was not that the Tajawazat was removed.
13:07The issue was that the government and the MC had not prepared any concrete plan for providing employment to these thousands of hard workers.
13:14had done
13:15That means overnight people were deprived of their livelihood.
13:19We were exactly like that
13:22The stories of these victims are truly heartbreaking.
13:26The issue is a report in the Dawn newspaper mentioning a man named Shaheen Abbasi.
13:32Yes, those who had drive-thru shops there.
13:35Yes, who had proper shops on the drive route.
13:38He says that he did not even get time to take out his belongings.
13:42And within just four hours, everything he owned turned into rubbish.
13:46Yes, it hurts a lot
13:48And not just that
13:49Take the example of Mr. Setna's family.
13:52Who were doing business there since 1938, that is, many years before the establishment of Pakistan.
13:58the people who were there by race
14:01They were suddenly evicted
14:04This is the harshest reality of urban development.
14:08that the most vulnerable often pay the price for this
14:12But there is another side to the picture too.
14:16Yes, without understanding that we cannot know the whole story.
14:20Those who support saving the administrative and cultural heritage
14:24I have a distinct and strong point of view.
14:27Of course, the statement of the Commissioner of Karachi at that time also came out.
14:31That a very powerful mafia was operating inside and outside the market.
14:37Yes, about whom it was said that Mahana used to collect a Bhatta of Rs. 3.5 crores.
14:42These were not the great corrupt shopkeepers near the three and a half crore i.e. Intezamia.
14:48No, according to him, this was an illegal system which has made a historical legacy illegal, but here it is
14:56It's a bit difficult to digest
14:57On one hand, on what basis are we saying that many of these shopkeepers have chemists who are decades old?
15:04He had government receipts and was paying the rent in full.
15:07And on the other hand, the administration is calling them Bhata Khor Mafia.
15:12Did not the State and its officials themselves give legal shape to these illegal allotments by collecting rent?
15:19Was
15:19This is a very important incident that you have pointed out.
15:23This means that you yourself make someone stay in your house, charge him rent and then suddenly throw him out by calling him a bastard.
15:29In fact, the political patronage, corruption and flaws within the KMC gave rise to this issue.
15:38The independent chieftains of the princely institutions were not on the same page.
15:42Absolutely, another example of this is the point of view of my Karachi friend Wasim Akhtar at that time.
15:48He said that KMC did not have the funds, diesel and even heavy machinery for such a large operation.
15:55Was
15:56Okay, so where did the machinery come from?
15:59It was told that machinery and diesel were provided by Bahariya Town Intezamia on a Razakarana basis.
16:06The bottom line was that after the dust settled, it was a magnificent Indo-Gothic building from 1884.
16:15After decades, for the first time, she appeared before the world with her complete Ab Utab.
16:22Its Roman arches, its vast courtyard and the clock tower with its leopard head are once again the highlights of the city.
16:30Naame pe vaaze ho gaya
16:31This was a huge success for the experts in heritage conservation.
16:36Of course, they were happy that the building had exploded, but to the social experts, it was a human tragedy.
16:44And this is the most difficult stage of urban psychology where there is no easy or straightforward answer.
16:53Do you save a 140-year-old historic building?
16:59Or the employment of thousands of people whose lives revolve around it?
17:04Of course, major cities around the world face these kinds of challenges, but a city like Karachi
17:12Its effects are much deeper in
17:14So what is the future of Emporium Market after this operation?
17:34So the hands of the clock tower, which had stopped for a long time, have now started moving again.
17:40Is the falling of the clock tower again a sign of disaster?
17:45Yes, the renovation and decoration of the building is slowly but surely continuing, even today if you go there
17:53So, meat, vegetables and spices are still being sold inside the market.
17:59The inner market is alive, but its barren landscape, which once housed thousands of small shops leading up to the Rainbow Centre, is gone.
18:07And it was surrounded by bags, it has now been completely cleaned.
18:11The building now stands alone once again as a monument to a newly inhabited place.
18:17Absolutely
18:18So, after gathering all this conversation, historical references and these human stories, we come back to where we started.
18:25We started this journey
18:28That is, a beautiful building and the secrets hidden in its stones.
18:31Of course, the British Emperor built Empire Market in 1884 to prevent the rebellion of local soldiers and their bloodshed.
18:42and erase forever the memory of this sad death and this slaughter
18:48They founded a market on the blood of the Mujahmat.
18:53And then in 2018, the princely states imposed several decades of restrictions on the lives of poor and hard-working people.
19:03and wiped out their living market
19:05So that this British building can be restored to its original form.
19:11So ultimately this raises a very silent question.
19:17that when our cities are cleaned up
19:20Or they are redesigned in the name of progress.
19:23So we decide whose save the date
19:27And on whose date do they run the bulldozer?
19:29Absolutely
19:30Is the history of stones more important than the history of humans? This is a question whose answer we may never know.
19:37You will have to find it yourself in the future.
19:39This is indeed a question that requires us to reconsider our cities and their models of development.
19:47gives a feast
19:47Absolutely, and with this thought in mind, we conclude this detailed study today.
19:53This story of Empress Market is not just the story of Karachi but of every city that is proud of its past and
20:00Looking for balance in the recent past
20:23Jhal Jhal Jhal Jhal Jhal
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