00:08With all the technology and modern horsepower that may be present, a Wipeout is a Wipeout.
00:15I've had this approach of it's okay to back out because if things don't look right, don't take a stupid
00:21risk.
00:22Risk is inherent in big wave surfing. Sometimes the line between risk and reward is blurred.
00:29Survival is basic. Hold your breath. Don't panic. Draw upon experience.
00:36Catching the wave is only half the battle, whereas you need to be able to surf the wave also.
00:42Calculated takeoffs perfectly timed still render disaster for many.
00:47And for a few elite, focus is everything as they charge forth on a day that would rewrite unexplored chapters
00:55in big wave surfing.
00:57It's easy to go out there and catch a bunch of medium-sized waves and never really push your comfort
01:02zone.
01:03And it's really hard to go out there and catch just a few really good big waves.
01:15All year long, every big day, somebody gets injured. And on any one of those days, you can lose your
01:21life, never mind end your season.
01:24Maybe even worse is be crippled or paralyzed or have something happen where you can be really seriously hurt.
01:37Watching people go down and get hurt, I've been trying as hard as I can this year to really only
01:41catch waves that I know I can make.
01:42The waves continue to scale and wipeouts are ramping, putting on a show for spectators watching a mile away.
02:00Mountains of water lift towards the cliffs.
02:02And wave after wave, Payahi clutches each challenger into its mighty hands.
02:09And wave after wave.
02:11And wave after wave.
02:14And wave after wave.
02:18And wave after wave.
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