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Great Korean Railway Journeys S01E05 Gwangju to Jeju
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00:01South Korea by rail
00:04These trains are capable of more than 200 mpH
00:08the opportunity to explore one of the world's most successful countries
00:14amidst towering skyscrapers in gleaming mega cities
00:18architectural statement
00:21I'll ride the wave of Korean culture sweeping the West. It's got this very spicy sauce
00:27and encounter ancient civilizations and traditions
00:33on a peninsula divided by war along a border between
00:37capitalism and communism the sense of tension here is powerful
00:42I'll see how out of destruction and partition South Koreans have forged an
00:48impressive new identity
01:02The ATX Fanshawe train number 427
01:07departing towards Bukul at 1825
01:11It's now in Russia
01:125.5.6 behind the yellow TV line
01:30My Korean excursion, which began at the frontier with the north, is nearing its end in the
01:36south of the peninsula.
01:40My impression of Korea from the train window is that it's in two parts, city and mountain,
01:48and the trains cut through the mountains in tunnels and on viaducts.
01:53It's an amazing achievement of civil engineering.
01:56But the tunnels are very frequent and they're very long, so don't expect to get many glimpses
02:03of spectacular Korean countryside from the train.
02:11Starting at the demilitarized zone between North and South Korea, my first stop was the
02:17dynamic capital of Seoul.
02:18I've visited Daejeon and historic Gyeongju before exploring the southern port of Busan.
02:26From Gyeongju in the west, I'll travel to the city of Gwangju, synonymous with Korea's fight
02:32for democracy.
02:33And I'll finish on the subtropical volcanic island of Jeju.
02:41This morning, my high-speed KTX train, travelling at almost 200 miles per hour, has brought me
02:48to Gwangju, the country's sixth largest city, with a population of one and a half million.
02:55The transport hub of the south-west, on the river Yong, in the centre of North Duella province,
03:01it lies at the foot of Mount Mudung, almost 4,000 feet above.
03:14In the rural area of Gwangju, around eight miles out of the city, I've come to discover
03:21a passion that is integral to this nation's culture.
03:26One food could be said to be the most characteristic of Korea.
03:31They'd been making it for more than 3,000 years.
03:34In the cold winters of the peninsula, people had no access to fresh food, and they staved
03:41off starvation by, in the autumn, fermenting vegetables that were then stored.
03:48It's called kimchi, and today, it appears at breakfast, lunch and dinner.
03:57South Koreans eat around two million tons of the spicy dish every year.
04:03And over the past decade, it's become increasingly popular around the world.
04:07At her village restaurant, kimchi expert Ran Lim is going to share her recipe with me.
04:13Mrs. Lim, hello.
04:17What a pleasure to meet you.
04:20I understand that you are a sort of champion of kimchi making.
04:35Fantastic.
04:36Now, tell me about some of the things we have here, please.
04:55Oh, lovely ingredients.
04:59Beautiful.
05:01Aren't they beautiful?
05:04Aren't they beautiful?
05:30How many people might be gathered together?
05:35How many people might be gathered together?
05:35It's about 7 or 8 people, about 10 people.
05:39It's about 3 or 4 days.
05:42I put them in a bag.
05:45I put them in a bag.
05:49I put them in a bag.
05:50I put them in a bag.
05:51I put them in a bag.
05:57Will you show me, please, how you make the kimchi?
06:11What's in this spicy sauce?
06:25Lovely smells.
06:28You seem to have wonderful vegetables.
06:32Are all these vegetables from close by?
06:36I put the kimchi in this mountain.
06:43This is a mountain mountain.
06:46It's called the mother mountain mountain.
06:49The mountain mountain mountain is a mountain mountain mountain.
06:52It's called the mother mountain mountain mountain.
06:57I put them in here.
06:59I put them in here.
07:02Everything is so fresh and beautiful.
07:05I put them in here.
07:08No substitute for the hands, it seems.
07:11I put them in here.
07:12And now...
07:14Is that ice...
07:16Yeah, we're spreading that all over there.
07:18Uh-huh.
07:19Leaf by leaf.
07:21Yeah.
07:23How did you learn to make kimchi?
07:48Oh.
07:53Mmm.
07:55It's very good.
08:03It's got this very spicy sauce.
08:08It's really lovely.
08:10It's so good.
08:12Congratulations.
08:14Your family and your friends are very lucky.
08:37Back in Gwangju, I've come to investigate a dark chapter in South Korea's history.
08:44Here in the centre of the city, May the 18th Memorial Park was opened in 1998 to honour the people
08:52who fought for the nation's freedom.
09:02Since the division of the peninsula into South and North, the Republic of Korea has been a beacon of capitalism,
09:10but not always of democracy.
09:13During the 1960s and 70s, there were military coups, the imposition of martial law, and the suspension of basic civil
09:24liberties.
09:25Here in Gwangju, in response in 1980, first students and then other citizens began to demonstrate demanding freedom.
09:34And that uprising was crushed with many people killed.
09:40But that violent reaction is now seen as a key moment in the recovery of democracy, because it was a
09:48national disgrace never to be repeated.
09:53Army General Chun Doo-hwan led a military coup and declared martial law in April 1980.
10:01People took to the streets, calling for democratic elections, and Gwangju became the centre of the protests.
10:08I'm meeting former chairman of the Bereave Families Association, Suman Chong.
10:14I'm Michael.
10:16We meet in front of this very emotive monument to the victims of the uprising of 1980.
10:22Please tell me about your connection to those events.
10:29In May 1980, during the Gwangju Democratic Uprising, my younger brother was arrested by the martial law troops and killed.
10:38Arriving in downtown Gwangju with a group of people to hold a memorial service, I was also arrested and detained.
10:47On the 18th of May, around 600 students, demonstrating against the suppression of academic freedom, were met with tear gas,
10:55batons and live ammunition.
10:57Others joined them, and an estimated quarter of a million people took to the streets, demanding an end to military
11:05rule.
11:06How was your brother killed?
11:09After being arrested by the martial law troops, my younger brother was beaten and collapsed in front of the provincial.
11:15government building on May 20th.
11:18He was transported to a military base, and he passed away.
11:23After nine days, army tanks moved in to crush the rebellion with brute force.
11:30Official government figures estimate that 165 civilians were killed, but those involved believe it was closer to 2,000.
11:40At that time, all roads from Gwangju to other cities were blocked.
11:45All means of communication were cut off, including newspapers, TV and radio.
11:51The government at the time concealed the atrocities committed by the martial law troops against the people.
11:57However, over time, people came to learn about Gwangju.
12:04Over the following decade, the pro-democracy movement continued to grow nationwide, and in 1993, South Koreans elected Kim Yong
12:14-sam, their first civilian president in more than three decades.
12:18As you look back on it now, what role do you think the uprising has played in the history of
12:26modern Korea?
12:28Korean democracy is rooted in the blood shed by the citizens of Gwangju during the May 18th democratic uprising.
12:37I believe the people have a much higher level of democratic awareness than the politicians.
12:46That democratic spirit was tested in 2024, when President Yoon Suk-yeol suddenly declared martial law, a move that was
12:55dramatically thwarted by parliament a few hours later.
13:01As someone who experienced May 18th, I believe that this recent martial law would never succeed.
13:09You were right, it did not succeed.
13:13Today's Korean people would never accept a coup.
13:20More than 700 people who lost their lives in the protests are buried here in the park cemetery.
13:28May 18th is a national day of commemoration to honour those who took part in the uprising, and they're remembered
13:35inside this monument.
13:40Mr. John, how many names do you think there are here, and will you please show me the ones that
13:46are of most importance to you?
13:48Mr. John, where is it?
13:53When your friends and friends have been born, you're by the past African Americans, this is the original name of
13:55the U.
13:58We have been a long time ago.
14:05Mr. John, how many names do you think you see?
14:12Is this one?
14:16Mr. John and I do the nextcond of the prime minister's name, this is the J means that you remain
14:17in the past 5 years ago.
14:25How long were you in prison?
14:29It must be a very moving experience for you to come to this beautiful monument.
14:54Yes.
14:54Mr. Zhang, it's been a great honor to meet you.
14:57You fought for freedom and to honor the memory of your brother.
15:18My tour has taken me the length and breadth of South Korea by rail.
15:23This morning, on the final leg of my journey, at the far south of the peninsula,
15:28I'll set sail from Wondo to Jeju,
15:31one of more than 3,000 islands scattered around the coast.
15:40From the ferry terminal, it's a two-and-a-half-hour trip across the East China Sea.
16:00I'm very excited to be on my way to Jeju, which is the largest island in Korea.
16:07It was formed two million years ago by an eruption, and that has left a volcano nearly 2,000 metres
16:14high,
16:15making it the tallest mountain in the country.
16:19The island's a bit more than 70 kilometres long, about 30 kilometres wide,
16:25home to more than 600,000 people, and very popular with Korean holidaymakers,
16:32who find it both relaxing and romantic.
16:36For my part, I find volcanoes scary and fascinating.
16:5360 miles from the mainland, Jeju is dominated by Mount Hala,
16:58Korea's largest volcano in the centre of the island.
17:08To the west of Jeju City Port, on the northern coast,
17:13Hyopje Beach is considered the best on the island.
17:26Although Jeju is very close to the Korea mainland,
17:29there is a subtle change in climate to subtropical,
17:32and that has led to extensive forestation of the slopes of the volcano,
17:37and now there's a lovely network of hiking paths that run through.
17:43Jeju attracts around 15 million tourists every year,
17:47mostly from within Korea, but also from China, Taiwan and Japan.
17:52Along its coastline, perfect white sands contrast dramatically
17:57with projections of black volcanic rock.
18:08I'm standing on solidified lava,
18:10and that island is one of the so-called parasite cones
18:14that can be found across and around Jeju.
18:18These are lesser extinct volcanoes, known here as Aurum.
18:25The power of the volcano is terrifying.
18:28Lava pours forth at more than 1,000 degrees centigrade,
18:31and it can form underground passageways as it melts the rock on its way.
18:37And when that cataclysm is over, it can leave beautiful caves.
18:44Just behind the beach, Halim Park, covering 25 acres,
18:49is one of the island's most popular sites for visitors.
18:57Beneath its glorious botanical gardens are Hyopje Caves,
19:01a South Korean national monument.
19:03I'm going to explore them with Yongmun Jeon,
19:06Professor of Volcanology at Gwangju's Chosun University.
19:12Professor John, my privilege to meet you.
19:14I'm Michael.
19:16Welcome to Korea.
19:18Welcome to Jeju.
19:18Welcome to the very famous cave.
19:21That's fantastic.
19:22I'm really looking forward to this.
19:24This sort of geological wonder is known as a lava tube.
19:29Here is one of the largest on the island,
19:31extending for over 200 metres.
19:34Professor John, I am so amazed, so surprised,
19:37at how big this lava tube is.
19:41200,000 years ago, the hot lava moved this way,
19:45and several days, it slowly, slowly melts
19:48and makes us a very huge lava tube.
19:51Two million years ago, the volcano activity started.
19:54This island is still an active volcano.
19:57Wow.
19:58We seem to have these stalactites.
20:01These cannot be made of volcanic rock.
20:04This rock is not volcanic rock.
20:06It's a yellowish colour.
20:07It is carbonate.
20:08Yes.
20:09Very special, very strange features.
20:12Normally, lava tube is black colour.
20:14Yeah.
20:15Where did this limestone come from?
20:16Yeah, this is very interesting.
20:18So, near the coast, there are many...
20:21They developed the white beach,
20:23composed of the shell fragments.
20:25Shell fragments moved by the wind,
20:28and then the rainwater dissolves the mineral.
20:32And then they seep into the cave,
20:35make us some new crystals.
20:36Right, and we can see the water still coming through.
20:38Yes, still crystal, still making.
20:40How unusual is this?
20:41It is unique.
20:43Unique?
20:43Yes.
20:44Wow.
20:44The caves are divided two types,
20:46the limestone cave and the lava tube simultaneously.
20:50It's very beautiful.
20:51It's fantastic.
20:52Now, how unusual are these lava tubes in the world?
20:57Lava tubes only discovered in the volcanic area,
21:01like Hawaii, Canary Island, and then Iceland only.
21:06Not too many.
21:07How many do you have here in Jeju?
21:10Over 200.
21:11Wow.
21:18Professor, here we have what looks like a pillar.
21:22Yes.
21:22When the lava moves inside the cave,
21:25the lava is very hot, extremely hot,
21:27and the ceiling and the bottom part is melting down.
21:30But this part remained.
21:32A tough bit of rock that has survived.
21:35Yes.
21:35I wanted to ask you about another feature of Jeju.
21:39This thing called Aurum.
21:41Aurum, yeah.
21:42Aurum is the small volcano,
21:44is the eruption by just one time.
21:47The Hala mountain is the central volcano.
21:49There are 420 Aurum that scatter all of the Jeju island.
21:54It is the evidence of the active volcanic eruption again and again.
21:59Are volcanologists like you able to predict
22:02when there could be another eruption?
22:04Yeah, 1,000 years ago,
22:06volcanic activity happened in this island.
22:08But nowadays we check in the monitoring
22:10and then lava fluctuation,
22:12maybe several hundred years will be exploded again.
22:15But now it's the same.
22:16We've no need to worry.
22:17Not today.
22:18Not today.
22:19It's been the most wonderful visit.
22:33Jeju's dramatic landscape and natural beauty
22:36have made it a popular place to visit.
22:39But away from the crowds,
22:41rural life has changed little over the years.
22:44A few miles along the coast,
22:46in the village of Gwidioq,
22:47I've come to discover a traditional community
22:50that's unique to the island.
22:53The henyu, the word means women of the sea,
22:57dive without breathing equipment
23:01to recover seafood from the depths.
23:03They are descended from countless generations of women
23:07who have similarly risked their lives.
23:10As I near the end of my Korean adventure,
23:13I am privileged to meet these fearless women
23:16who are also a precious Korean cultural phenomenon.
23:21.
23:37Morning, ladies!
23:38Woo!
23:40Morning!
23:44I love you.
23:46Good morning.
23:46Good morning.
23:47Good morning.
23:47Good morning.
23:47Good morning.
23:48Good morning.
23:51Mm, that's...
23:53No, thank you.
23:57It's okay.
23:58When you're old,
24:00you can't sing a great song
24:01that you can sing.
24:03If you're old,
24:03you can sing more.
24:08Henyiu have made a living
24:10and supported their communities
24:12diving off Jeju's shores
24:13for hundreds of years.
24:15how long have you all been doing this 50 years 50 years 10 years 10 years here
24:29you're the babies the newcomers and what is it you catch is it dangerous
24:58where are the abalone and the sea creeps where are they on rocks are they deep down where do you
25:03find
25:04them big stones under the big stones so you have to move the big stone you have to be strong
25:19wow oh look at that vicious weapon how long could you hold your breath I admire you I admire you
25:28so
25:28much you are so brave today just a few thousand henu are keeping the tradition alive but at its peak
25:36around 60 years ago over 20,000 women made their living diving here for up to seven hours a day
25:49why only women
25:59before their dives and on their return the henu gather around the campfire of their stone bull talk
26:07or meeting place to cook some of their catch and to sing traditional songs
26:12a quick journey from the sea to the stomach
26:21ladies I will soon leave Korea when I'm at home 9,000 kilometers away I shall think back to my
26:30lovely meeting with the henu women will you sing the song for me please
26:38uh
26:40uh
26:49co sides
26:52what ID
26:54HIS
26:56yeah
26:56ah
26:57shark
26:5900
27:03car
27:04Ah-ha-ya, oh-ya-oh-ya
27:08Tomah-gim, 술, 따례, 다 들어간다
27:12Ah-ha-ya, oh-ya-oh-ya
27:31Bye-bye!
27:34Come back safe. Bye-bye.
27:39MUSIC PLAYS
28:00Koreans have suffered terribly from colonisation and from war.
28:04And even today, the people in the north are some of the poorest
28:09and most repressed in the world.
28:11But the progress in the south has to be seen to be believed.
28:18Skyscraper-crammed cities are squeezed between mountains
28:21and efficiently connected by high-speed trains
28:25that rush through tunnels and over viaduct.
28:28Things work here.
28:30Koreans are buzzy and competitive,
28:33and yet they have a culture of working together.
28:36Whilst enjoying the welcome here,
28:39I've also felt admiration and even envy.
28:43MUSIC PLAYS
29:13PLUS
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