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00:01I'm Adam Richmond, global food adventurer and someone who loves exploring this wonderful world fork first.
00:08I'm making the map my menu.
00:10That is beautiful.
00:11And eating my way through a country that is synonymous with delicious food that's beloved the world over.
00:16Italy!
00:18Risotto alla Milanese.
00:20I'm seeking the iconic dishes that are named for the legendary Italian cities that invented them.
00:26From prosciutto di Parma in Parma.
00:29My knee's got a little weak.
00:30To world famous pizza.
00:32Real Neapolitan pizza here in Naples.
00:35Monte di Napoli.
00:36To Polonese lasagna in Bologna.
00:39It's magic. It's beautiful.
00:41If you want to uncover a city's true food soul, eat the food that wears its name.
00:46Bistecca alla Fiorentina in Florence.
00:49I'm exploring the best.
00:52The freshest.
00:54Oh my God, it's amazing.
00:55The most delicious bites of each region of Italy I travel to.
00:59Tiramisu.
01:00At the restaurant where it was born.
01:02This is my incredible edible adventure.
01:05This is Adam Richmond Eats Italy.
01:13Right now I am surrounded by the beautiful and incredibly clean waters of the Adriatic.
01:18A place that is the second largest city in southern Italy.
01:21A place that has been called the gateway to the east.
01:25Bienvenuti a Bari.
01:27Welcome to Bari.
01:28If I'm making the map of my menu in Bari, that means I have to try their famous Orecchiette Little
01:34Ear Pasta.
01:36Focaccia Barese.
01:37The local type of focaccia that infuses the flavors of fresh tomatoes.
01:42And hey, if I'm on the Adriatic, I have to try some fresh seafood.
01:45Whether it's in a dish that dates all the way back to the 16th century and still enjoyed by the
01:51barese today.
01:52Or some of the freshest seafood street food you're likely to find anywhere in Italy.
01:58This is my incredible edible adventure in the heel of the boot.
02:02This is Adam Richmond Eats Italy in Bari.
02:09The Puglia region, of which Bari is the capital, is known for wheat, for wine, and for olives.
02:16And I think when we talk about Italian cuisine, Italian bread is deeply beloved and deeply respected.
02:22But before there was piadini, before there was even pizza, there was focaccia.
02:26And while you can get focaccia pretty much everywhere in Italy,
02:30some places have their own distinct and wonderful versions, like Genoa and, yes, in Bari.
02:36And for focaccia barese, we're heading for some of the best, panficio fiori.
02:42While Bari may not have invented focaccia, they definitely have put their stamp on it.
02:47With a unique local version that's soft, crunchy, uses more local olive oil to more tomatoes and olives
02:54than many other regions of Italy, creating a signature dish,
02:57and head baker Antonio is going to show me how it's done.
03:00Roll up my sleeves.
03:02I love focaccia.
03:04Okay.
03:04Okay.
03:04Vieni qua.
03:06Sì.
03:07Segui.
03:09Okay, so olio di oliva.
03:10Olio d'oliva.
03:14Olio.
03:15Sì.
03:16Olio di barese.
03:18Olio di Bari.
03:19You're going to do all the oil.
03:20This is the region to do it.
03:22Quello lo puoi bere.
03:23Ah?
03:23Lo puoi bere quello.
03:25Tu beri?
03:26Ottimo.
03:27È vero.
03:30Ottio.
03:31Olio buono.
03:32Un po' picante.
03:35Ottimo.
03:36Oh, wow.
03:37The little spicy, super fragrant, almost perfumey.
03:41Wow, that's delicious.
03:44The whole tomato.
03:46Vai.
03:49Sì?
03:49Sì.
03:50Oh, that's awesome.
03:51Oh, my God.
03:52I get to take out so much frustration and tension on these poor little tomatoes.
03:56Oh, well, that's why we have the apron.
03:59Oliva.
04:01Oliva.
04:04Dentro.
04:04Dentro.
04:05Oh, press them in.
04:06Okay.
04:06Cusci.
04:08Ok.
04:09Ok.
04:10Ok.
04:10Ok.
04:10Sale?
04:11Sale.
04:12Salt.
04:13Cusci sale.
04:16Oh, molto bene.
04:18Oregano, ok?
04:22Ok.
04:24Molto oregano.
04:25Ok.
04:25Ok.
04:25The focaccia rests and proofs for 20 minutes to get the perfect state that will give us
04:31the airy, crusty texture it's known for.
04:33And then it's straight into what feels like the biggest and hottest oven in Italy.
04:39Wow.
04:39That thing is huge.
04:41That thing is huge.
04:42That's like Tutankhamun's tomb.
04:44Seriously.
04:45This is bigger than a one-bedroom apartment in New York City.
04:48One thing you need to hear.
04:49Hey, Marco, could you throw your boom in here?
04:53See if you can hear the sizzle.
04:58That's the olive oil, the juices of the tomatoes, the olives themselves, all the little pockets
05:04in the yeast moving and flapping and just soaking up.
05:07Oh, my God.
05:08Molto bona.
05:09Okay.
05:10We have the focaccia coming out.
05:12I'm degloving.
05:13Ready to do some focaccia loving.
05:16Oh.
05:17Wow.
05:20Well done.
05:23Oh, wow.
05:24Look at that leopard-ing.
05:25Look at that crust.
05:27Look at that crust.
05:30I mean, it's wild because pretty much everything is from here in Puglia.
05:36Occasionally, seasonally, they may have to source tomatoes from Sicily, but everything.
05:40This is a taste of Bari.
05:43Un sapore di Bari.
05:44Sapore di Bari.
05:45Let's have a taste.
05:47Sagiamo?
05:47Sagiamo?
05:48Sii, si, certo.
05:55Grazie.
05:56So, look, it's crunchy, it's soft, and you smell olive and olive oil throughout, even if you
06:02don't have a piece of olive oil on it.
06:04Salute.
06:05Salute.
06:11Come on, uh, it is crunchy on the bottom, pillowy in the middle, and then that rich tomato,
06:22olive, oregano thing.
06:23How about that?
06:26Mmm.
06:28It's got this golden smell, this spice, this sweetness, this caramel nuttiness, and that's
06:34just the olive oil.
06:35And that's what's underneath the focaccia and on top and in between all the layers.
06:40So, all of this color, that comes not just from the heat, but from the olive oil baking
06:45into it.
06:46It's just perfect.
06:47Perfetta.
06:51Many iconic local dishes throughout Italy are rooted in the traditions of cucina povera,
06:58the kitchen and culinary traditions of the poor.
07:01And puria, the region of which Bari is the capital, is no different, where humble ingredients
07:07are transformed into complex, incredible flavors.
07:11In many ways, the dish that truly embodies this here is orequete a la cima de rapa, ear-shaped
07:18pasta made from local durum wheat, cooked with turnip tops that flourish in the rich coastal
07:23soil.
07:24I've come to Larpie in Barivecchia, the ancient part of the city, where owner Vincenzo's secret
07:29to this dish is to call on extremely experienced hands.
07:34Ciao, Vincenzo.
07:35Oh, hi, that's why.
07:36How are you?
07:37Piacere.
07:38Piacere mio, Montoglieto.
07:39So, this restaurant is what?
07:41This is my restaurant, yes, and this is the home for Maria.
07:45She prepared the homemade pasta from orecchietta with turning tops.
07:49The real, the real orecchietta.
07:50You want to come inside?
07:52Adiamo.
07:52Okay.
07:53Come on, come on.
07:54Let's go see Maria.
07:55Signora Maria is only yards away.
07:58Talk about fresh.
08:00Buongiorno, buongiorno.
08:02Allora, Maria, lui è Adam.
08:05Sono Adam, piacere mio.
08:06Her 40 years of pasta craft and know-how supplies the pasta for Vincenzo's restaurant.
08:12Who taught you?
08:14Mia madre.
08:17Oh, so this is mom's recipe.
08:20Her mom taught her.
08:21You can see how these little concave ear shapes are going to be perfect to catch and hold the
08:27sauce.
08:28Maria, tu potresti insegnare Adam a fare gli orecchietti?
08:32Oh, grazie, grazie, grazie.
08:35This way, the other way.
08:37Con due mani, così, e devi tirare.
08:44Lo devi tirare.
08:46Insieme, fagli vedere, prende il coltello e fagli vedere il movimento giusto con le due
08:50mani.
08:51Okay.
08:52Ecco, così.
08:53Dei due mani.
08:55Bravissimo.
09:06The five-second rule is international, right?
09:09Devi schiacciare.
09:11I didn't push.
09:12Mocca la capi e tolf.
09:16I'm scared out of my mind.
09:18I don't know.
09:19Will someone translate?
09:20What did she say?
09:21Did I not push hard enough?
09:22Yeah.
09:23Why is she yelling at me?
09:24Devi schiacciare.
09:26Schiacciare.
09:27Schiacciare.
09:27Good.
09:28I don't know what that means.
09:28Schiacciare con i diti.
09:30Does scacciare mean you scaring the s*** out of me?
09:33Because scacciare all the way.
09:35I am sketched out.
09:38What does scacciare mean?
09:39All day, you.
09:40Schiacciare.
09:43No, spingere, spingere.
09:45E non spingere.
09:46I capi e due.
09:49Oh, she stare, brav.
09:51Dai.
09:51Okay.
09:52Yeah?
09:53I do a man.
09:53I cannot tell you the immense fear in my heart right now.
09:58Spingi, spingi le mani.
10:01Bravissimo!
10:06Hallelujah.
10:06I finally managed to schiacciare.
10:10I will save it.
10:21He's more happy for Adam.
10:24My first time.
10:25Bravissimo!
10:29I'm so emotional.
10:31This is my baby.
10:33Bravissimo!
10:34With the pasta made, it's over to Chef Usin, who's been making this dish for 20 years.
10:40Extra virgin olive oil from Puglia, shaved garlic and anchovy for extra seasoning and flavor.
10:47Next, the turnip tops or chime de rapa, quickly cooked with a fresh orequete.
10:52It's essentially part of the mustard family.
10:55It's part of the brassicae family, to be honest.
10:58That's why it has a nuttiness, a bitterness, an almost almond-like taste.
11:02Finally, a few juicy tomatoes into the anchovy oil, then in with the veg and the pasta to create an
11:10Italian flag of beautiful flavors.
11:12The pasta is so fresh, it came from across this narrow walkway.
11:16It went from the Cucina de Maria to Cucina de Arpia.
11:20Like, that was it.
11:21I mean, olive oil is from Puglia.
11:24The pasta came from Maria right over here.
11:27She's actually watching me just off camera right now.
11:30So I better like it, because she's a very tough lady.
11:40It tastes like springtime at the seaside.
11:44That's the best, clearest explanation.
11:47And there is no substitute for handmade pasta.
11:52There just never will be, there never has been.
12:03Wow.
12:04It's just the most bright, beautiful, flavorful, colorful punch in the mouth you ever did have.
12:16Oh.
12:38My eating adventure across Italy has been exquisite.
12:43I've had some of the finest food I've ever eaten as I've crisscrossed this beautiful boot, making the map my
12:48menu.
12:49I'm in Bari, a city that sits on the internationally recognized, pure, clean waters of the Adriatic coastline,
12:56which makes it home to an abundance of world-class seafood.
13:00Its rocky seabeds and warm currents make it the perfect location for the Barreze tradition of fishing for octopus.
13:08While I know that the world at large may have mixed feelings about eating them, I'm a guest here.
13:13And the Barreze have been catching and eating octopus for centuries,
13:16celebrating its firm, clean bite and briny sweetness.
13:21I've come to the aptly named La Tanna de Pulpo, The Den of the Octopus,
13:26to try their famous octopus sandwich, The Hot Pulp, a cheeky, fishy riff on the hot dog.
13:32And owner Michele says it's the best.
13:36Ah, buongiorno, Michele.
13:37Oh, buongiorno. Welcome, Adams.
13:39Adam, piacere.
13:40My name is Filippo.
13:42Filippo, Adam, piacere mio.
13:43So the name, Tanna de Pulpo, means The Den of the Octopus.
13:48So, pulpo is, like, number uno.
13:51Pulpo is...
13:51Number one, yes.
13:52But this is, like, street food tradizionale, right?
13:56This is for Barre, like...
13:58Yes, tradizionale, si.
14:00In addition to the octopus sandwich, I've ordered gamberi fritti e calamari fritti,
14:05fried squid and fried prawn.
14:08Okay, so we're gonna have a little bit of a street food mix.
14:12We're in Octopus City, so you have to step it up.
14:15I'm loving the food in Bari.
14:17Did you grow up?
14:19Yes, sono Bari.
14:20Ah, sì, sì, sì, sono Bari.
14:22The culture of Bari is the culture of the ocean.
14:25Owner Michele gets his octopus fresh,
14:28straight off the boat from local fishermen each day.
14:31First, they're boiled until tender,
14:33in water with lemon vinegar and a bay leaf.
14:36And then they're ready to be taken to the next level.
14:39Extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon and pepper,
14:42three minutes each side over the flames,
14:45gives the octopus a smoky, tender bite,
14:47and it's time to assemble the dish.
14:49I'm heading outside.
14:50I mean, this is street food, after all,
14:53so I may as well eat it on the street.
14:55So we have calamari.
14:57Everyone loves calamari fritti.
14:59The best, with the shrimp.
15:01And to me, lemon and seafood go together like hugs and kisses.
15:05Now, I get a lot of grief for this.
15:08Very often they say,
15:09you gotta take the head out,
15:10it's where all the stuff is.
15:11But I feel you kind of lose the essence of the shrimp.
15:15So, I may get letters, but it's okay.
15:17The algorithm will honor the mentions.
15:19Here we go.
15:23Mmm.
15:25What's nice is I taste shrimp.
15:27I don't taste batter.
15:28I don't taste oil.
15:30I'm not tasting a ton of extra seasoning.
15:33And that while there is batter on it,
15:37it's very thin.
15:38And it's just a suggestion of the crunch.
15:41And it just enhances the eating of already deliciously fresh seafood.
15:47So this is the hot pulp.
15:49It's like the bratwurst of the sea.
15:51Mmm.
15:53Mmm.
15:54Mmm.
15:55Mmm.
15:57Mmm.
15:57Mmm.
16:03That's truly fantastic.
16:05Octopus has a chewiness.
16:06And unless you cook it well,
16:08it's like chewing on a tire or a sneaker.
16:11And it's so soft and tender.
16:12And it gives you just enough of that resistance
16:15that it reminds you that that's what you're eating.
16:17And if you're in città de pulpo,
16:19like you want to know what you're eating.
16:21You want to eat the thing that everyone loves.
16:23Mmm.
16:26Mmm.
16:28Barri is definitely a seafood town.
16:31When you see food in Bari, you should eat it.
16:38Mmm.
16:39Mmm.
16:41Mmm.
16:42Mmm.
16:44Mmm.
16:45Mmm.
16:45Mmm.
16:45Mmm.
16:46Mmm.
16:46To know the food of Bari
16:47is to understand the relationship with the ocean.
16:50And a dish that dates back to 16th century Barese cooking
16:53is tiella, a hearty one-pot peasant dish
16:57with rice, potatoes, and mussels.
17:00I've come to Ai Due Ghiottoni,
17:03the two gluttons, for my very first taste
17:06of la tiella barese,
17:08a dish which proudly wears its city's name.
17:11Owner Massimiliano and his chef Donato
17:13are preparing this humble dish of land and sea.
17:18Qual è la storia di questo piatto?
17:19Allora, and the story of this plate
17:22is the story of Bari.
17:23It's the most important plate of Bari.
17:26Is it?
17:27Traditional, for the tradition of Bari,
17:30because we have vegetables and mussels and rice.
17:35What's really beautiful, again, is once again
17:37we return to this principle of semplice,
17:40of simplicity, and cucina povera,
17:43a dish that was really born of peasantry, of necessity.
17:48Let's make it.
17:49Andiamo.
17:49I'm excited.
17:50I've had the pleasure of sampling
17:52the traditional, hearty casserole
17:54layered with potato protein and veg
17:56in surely England
17:58that's known as Lancashire Hot Pot.
18:00And in many ways,
18:01this could be considered Bari's version.
18:04La tiella barese starts
18:06with humble, perfectly prepared ingredients
18:08that are bountiful and inexpensive.
18:11Chopped onions, potatoes, and garlic.
18:13Next, it's pomodoro puree, parmigiano, freshly cut tomatoes,
18:20pecorino cheese, parsley, salt, and extra virgin olive oil.
18:26Give it a good mix, and then we build one soulful layer of flavor at a time.
18:32The local Adriatic mussels go in raw, an ingredient that nods to Pulio once being under Spanish rule and being
18:40a giant in the seafood game.
18:42Oh, wow.
18:43All of the potato liquid, it probably has starch in it.
18:47It's important for the cooking of rice.
18:50Okay, so at the very top was pane grattugiato.
18:53Yes.
18:54A little bread crust.
18:55The last ingredient.
18:57Just to sort of make a nice crust and soak it up.
19:00So, a la forno, una ora.
19:02Una ora.
19:02So, one hour in the oven.
19:04One and then ten degree.
19:06Two ten centigrade, and then after that, un otro hour.
19:11Ora to eat.
19:12And then we have to wait another hour to let it cool.
19:14Okay, a la forno.
19:15A la forno.
19:21Okay, my friend.
19:22Oh, grazie, man.
19:24Buon appetito.
19:25Grazie per tutti, fratello.
19:27Wow.
19:28This smells like everything that's right with the world.
19:34Oh, just cutting it.
19:37Release the flavor from underneath.
19:40It's almost like coce ripiena, like stuffed mussels.
19:51Wow.
19:52Because all that marine flavor and all those aromatics,
19:57you know, the onion, the tomato, the garlic,
20:01all cooked into the rice.
20:03That bite was almost like paella.
20:05It's like an Italian-tinged paella.
20:07But then remember, there's also so many different layers
20:10of the two cheeses, parmigiano-reggiano
20:13and pecorino-romano,
20:16that there's almost that cheese and rice risotto
20:21umami thing.
20:22It is the Barreze synthesis, to me,
20:26of paella and Lancashire hot pot.
20:30It is Barrecher hot pot.
20:32The beauty of a crispy potato, I think, transcends culture.
20:42And the potatoes catch everything.
20:45The beautiful thing is, it's the juxtaposition
20:48of this high culinary skill with good old home cooking.
20:52And that's what I'm looking at.
20:53Tiela de Barreze, a dish in the 16th century,
20:56still eaten on Sundays.
20:58Eat Barre come la Barreze.
21:02Eat Bari like the Bari natives do.
21:04Have a taste of authentic tradition
21:07for this region, for Italian food,
21:09and for your own experience.
21:11Mangia bene, mangia tutto.
21:15Mmm.
21:18Or don't eat the shells.
21:19The shells will hurt you.
21:20Just saying.
21:21Food is worth.
21:27Charlie's to scratch?
21:29Will you translate what scachara means?
21:31Hey, I'm scachari.
21:32I don't know.
21:33Scachari, scachari.
21:35Scachari.
21:36Scachari.
21:38Look, if I pressed any more,
21:41I would have, like, a hernia.
21:42What is?
21:43I'm scachari.
21:44Can someone translate scachari?
21:45Scachari, so press hard.
21:47Press hard.
21:48I did, and the thing turns to butter.
21:50Press.
21:52All right, I'll try to scachari one more time.
21:54All right, I'll try to scachari one more time.
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