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00:00Come with me on a voyage through Spain.
00:08Buenos dias, mi capitán.
00:10As I reveal the secrets.
00:12What an amazing building.
00:14That is magnificent.
00:15Of places you think you know.
00:17Look at the size of this.
00:19I like it!
00:21And the little known regions.
00:23That is spectacular.
00:25Just waiting to be discovered.
00:27This is very nostalgic for me.
00:29Smell the money.
00:30Ooh, suddenly we're on the Riviera.
00:33But I'm inside the barrel.
00:35Together we'll go beyond the hotspots.
00:37Absolutely spectacular.
00:39It's so remote.
00:40Arriba! Fuerte!
00:42To the places where the magic is made.
00:44You have to love heat and smoke and flame.
00:47Yay!
00:50I can't wait to show you.
00:52Today I'll show you the stunning island of Mallorca.
01:02Isn't that the most wonderfully tempting water?
01:05Where we'll venture off the beaten track.
01:07After trudging through the wilderness and oasis.
01:10In search of island traditions.
01:12Ready for the fight.
01:14Man versus almond.
01:16And long lost confections.
01:18This is the most wonderful smell.
01:20I see things that I've never seen before.
01:21I discover ancient facilities.
01:23It's bigger than my bathroom.
01:25But I can be ambitious.
01:26But the stakes are high.
01:27Here they come towards the finishing line.
01:29My journey through Spain continues to an island that many of us think we know.
01:44This is Mallorca.
01:49The largest of Spain's Mediterranean islands.
01:52Mallorca lies 125 miles east of the mainland.
01:56A beauty that I delight to visit.
02:01Now I want to show you what lies beyond the beaches.
02:04A place of bountiful produce.
02:07With its own culture and customs.
02:10And distinct Catalan dialect called MallorquÃn.
02:13Set against a rugged skyline.
02:18Our starting point is the island capital.
02:20And capital of all the Balearics, Palma.
02:23Where more than 30 million passengers touch down every year.
02:29Just a fraction, however, makes it to the magnificent landmark that dominates the city's seafront.
02:39This is the Gothic cathedral in Palma in Mallorca.
02:43Not a site you'd necessarily expect to see on what is considered a holiday island.
02:48Being one of the loveliest cathedrals in Europe.
02:50Most unusually set on the shores of the Mediterranean.
02:53Rising majestically visible across the sea from a great distance.
02:58And many visitors who use Palma Airport do not visit this stunning capital.
03:04But here, and in that gorgeous mountain landscape, we shall explore together to discover the places where tradition flourishes undisturbed.
03:14Our journey takes us first into an historic heart of the island.
03:21And one of its most treasured towns, Soler.
03:24Which for many centuries was largely isolated from the rest of Mallorca.
03:29Ahead of me, the Tramontana Mountains, looking pretty much like a wall.
03:36They're very impressive.
03:38And they wrap around the town of Soler.
03:41So it is pretty much cut off from the rest of Mallorca.
03:45But historically, because it has its own port, it was able to trade with the rest of the world.
03:50So, oddly, for many centuries, Soler probably had more connection with France than with the rest of the island.
03:57Or indeed with Spain.
03:58In 1997, a road tunnel was built that connected Soler and the Golden Valley with the rest of Mallorca.
04:15It's a town well worth visiting for its modernist Art Nouveau buildings and pretty squares built in the 19th century.
04:22On the back of a booming citrus industry.
04:25Such was the wealth from citrus pouring into Soler that the town needed its own bank.
04:38And what's more, it didn't want to miss out on the modernist fashion.
04:41So it commissioned the architect, Joan Rubio, who was a disciple of the great Anthony Gaudi, to design them this.
04:49Complete with two balconies and a lion overlooking the square.
04:54Then, the same architect was commissioned to do a new facade for the church, which had been very largely baroque.
05:00So a pretty enormous change.
05:02And you might regard that as a great extravagance.
05:04But there was little limit to the money that could be squeezed from fruit.
05:09The tram that once transported oranges on route to Marseille still runs, now delighting passengers.
05:17It's clearly fun and an experience that I cannot possibly miss.
05:21One of the main attractions of Soler is surely its charming antique tram.
05:31Built in 1913, the line runs for just over three miles to the nearby port.
05:36And for 10 euros, it makes a picturesque trip back in time.
05:43This lovely tram runs from Soler town down to Soler port.
05:48And that means that part of it runs through the countryside.
05:51We're passing lemon and orange trees just now.
05:55And the tram was used to take fruit down to the port and export to France.
06:00And fish from the fishing boats would have been taken up to the town on tram.
06:05And the port of Soler is no longer lined with cargo ships.
06:08Ooh!
06:09Suddenly, we're on the Riviera.
06:10Isn't that the most wonderful thing?
06:11Yeah.
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06:52Tonight, I'm booked to stay in the valley,
06:55well away from the hustle and bustle.
06:58I've been told to take the return tram
07:00and get off at an unmarked stop just outside the port.
07:06And now I'm completely lost.
07:12I've tried the low road and the high road,
07:15so where's the hotel?
07:19And to think just a few minutes ago,
07:21I was on one of the island's most popular beaches.
07:25After trudging through the wilderness, an oasis
07:29for the sinner Eden revisited.
07:35My host Amelia is the 14th generation of her family
07:39to oversee this beautiful estate.
07:47Hola, Amelia.
07:48Hola, Michael. Hello.
07:50Nice to meet you.
07:52Mucho gusto.
07:55What a lovely place you have here.
07:57Is this yours?
07:58Yeah, this is from my family,
08:00uh, belong 1723.
08:02Oh!
08:03Yeah.
08:04It wasn't a hotel in 1723.
08:06No.
08:07My father created the hotel, uh, 1991,
08:10and was the first rural hotel in Mallorca.
08:14Wherever I travel, I try to find places like this.
08:18Family owned, tied to tradition, away from the crowds.
08:24And Spain is full of them.
08:25And Spain is full of them.
08:26So, Michael, this is our pamboli.
08:31Oh, how lovely.
08:32Look at that.
08:33What is that?
08:34So, this is the most famous dish in Mallorca.
08:37Mallorcan bread, tomato, olive oil from our olivar.
08:42From our olive trees?
08:43Exactly.
08:44Uh, Iberian hemp.
08:45And always, uh, it's with, uh, season fruit.
08:49And now it's the fig.
08:50I noticed we're surrounded by fruit trees.
08:52Does that explain why your family has been here so long?
08:55Were you fruit farmers?
08:56Exactly.
08:57This was, uh, orange trees.
08:59We had more than 5,000.
09:01And my great-grandfather export all the fruit to France.
09:06Through the port of Soler?
09:07Exactly.
09:08To Marsella.
09:09Because more easy without the tunnel.
09:13Why did your father decide to switch
09:16from being a fruit farmer to a hotelier?
09:19Pues, ehm, él empezó haciendo pambolis, hace 40 años,
09:25con unos amigos, viviendo aquÃ,
09:28y era un movimiento muy bonito, de jóvenes,
09:32un poco de artistas bohemios en dÃa.
09:35Y se hizo muy famoso.
09:39Incluso vino Michael Douglas a cenar pamboli aquÃ.
09:41Y bueno, luego lo convirtió en un restaurante
09:44y fue el primer hotel rural en Mallorca.
09:46This pamboli is absolutely delicious.
09:51And what is so extraordinary to me
09:53is you feel like you could be
09:55a hundred miles from the nearest city.
09:57Would you say Soler is quite different
09:59from other parts of Mallorca?
10:00After those years of isolation,
10:02does it have its own character?
10:04Yes.
10:05And Soler has a lot of influence from France
10:08because they have, well, many, many, many years
10:12and it was not easy to contact
10:14to other towns in Mallorca
10:17and have a lot of French people
10:19that was living here
10:20or a lot of people from Soler
10:22that was living in, in France.
10:24For example, in Spain we say carro
10:27and here in Soler it in ca-ho.
10:29Like a French char.
10:30Exactly.
10:31This is absolutely marvellous.
10:35I'm going to really enjoy my night here
10:38in the countryside.
10:40Thank you so much and congratulations
10:42on this special place.
10:44Thank you, my goodness.
10:45Next, an abundant harvest.
10:54What a beautiful sight.
10:56Lots of lovely almonds.
10:57Begets a bounty.
10:59Bon profit.
11:00Bon profit.
11:01Excellent.
11:02I'm revealing the mysteries of Mallorca,
11:14the stunning Balearic island.
11:16For decades it's been associated with both package holidays
11:21and a destination for the rich and famous.
11:27Together though,
11:28we are searching out the places
11:30that other visitors often miss.
11:33I'm arriving in quite a remote
11:35and very fertile part of the island.
11:38Mountains still all around me.
11:40Actually I'm only about half an hour from Palma
11:44but we really could be anywhere here.
11:52My arrival in Puchpunyent,
11:54to the west of the island,
11:55coincides with the almond harvest.
12:01I'm meeting Maria de Luc,
12:03whose family has farmed the land for many generations.
12:06Hola, Maria. Encantado. Soy Michael.
12:08Hola, Michael. Encantada.
12:09Mallorcan farmers grow more than a million kilos of almonds
12:14every year.
12:15The nuts here are regarded as amongst the best in the world.
12:20La almendra Mallorca,
12:21lo más especial es que tiene mucho aceite.
12:23Y eso lo hace diferente de todas las otras almendras
12:27que hay en el mundo.
12:28Y es muy valorada sobre todo para la pastelerÃa.
12:33Around 20,000 acres of Mallorca
12:36are devoted to almond groves.
12:38La almendra tiene la cáscara.
12:41Y con el sol la piel se abre.
12:44Y se abre asÃ.
12:45Luego con la máquina tiene un sistema
12:48que quita esta piel
12:50y se queda la almendra solo asÃ
12:52para poder entregarla a la cooperativa.
12:54May we open one now, please?
12:55SÃ.
12:56La forma tradicional.
12:58The traditional way of opening an almond.
13:01I don't think I've ever eaten an almond straight from the tree.
13:11It's fantastic.
13:16Mmm.
13:18No wonder Mallorca is famous for almonds.
13:20That's delicious.
13:22Almonds were first cultivated on the island in the 10th century,
13:28during the Islamic occupation.
13:34900 years later, disease wiped out Mallorca's vineyards
13:38and almond groves were planted to replace them.
13:41Until recently, workers harvested the almonds
13:46by beating the nuts off the tree with long sticks.
13:50Hola Juan.
13:51Encantado, Michael.
13:52Y Juan también.
13:53Your name is Juan, as well.
13:54Encantado.
13:55Maria's father and helper Juan
13:57have the luxury of a modern solution.
14:00Desde cuando ha empleado máquinas?
14:04Hace 30 años.
14:0530 años, yeah.
14:07Ah, and now the umbrella has extended itself.
14:19Now we're going to give the, oh my goodness,
14:21give the tree a very good shape.
14:26It used to take two people ten minutes to harvest each tree.
14:3055 seconds a tree.
14:40That is effective.
14:43But do you remember the ancient times?
14:46Yes, I've taken a lot of almonds
14:48on the plates and on the plates.
14:50Did you like to do it like this?
14:52Well, we didn't know what it was.
14:55You've been dedicated to almonds, right?
14:57All my life.
14:58All your life you've been doing this.
15:07Hopes are high for this year's yield.
15:13Time to collect any nuts missed by the modern machine.
15:18Ready for the fight.
15:19Man versus almond.
15:21Like a medieval knight with a lance, I face down my foe.
15:28Whilst avoiding being taken out by the tractor.
15:30I'm feeling good about this.
15:31Maybe too good.
15:35Too sentadito.
15:36In no time at all, we've made fast work of the harvest.
15:40What a beautiful sight.
15:41Lots of lovely almonds.
15:42Gracias.
15:43Nada.
15:44Mucho gusto.
15:45Time to taste the fruits of our labour.
15:46Maria, what a wonderful spread.
15:47Tell me what you have here.
15:48Here we have here.
15:49El postre más tÃpico de Mallorca que tú.
15:50El postre más tÃpico de Mallorca que tú.
15:51Hecho con almendras.
15:52Hecho con almendras, el gato de almendras.
15:53El gato de almendras.
15:54Y aquà tenemos el postre más tÃpico de Mallorca que tú.
15:55Hecho con almendras, el gato de almendras.
15:56Y aquà tenemos el postre más tÃpico de Mallorca que tú.
15:57Hecho con almendras, el gato de almendras.
15:58I love almond cake.
16:00Mmm.
16:01Was this good?
16:02No.
16:03No.
16:04No.
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16:55No.
16:56Don't you have a donkey to do this?
17:00That's how the cake was in Mallorca.
17:07Might take a little rest.
17:09Juan, it's terminado.
17:11No, no, dale tú, dale tú.
17:13Perhaps you won't have ice cream.
17:16Okay, let's have it then.
17:19Mmm, looks delicious.
17:21Okay.
17:23Mmm, it's heaven.
17:27Es el paraÃso, digo.
17:29It's heaven.
17:30It's full of lovely little pieces of almond.
17:33Exquisito.
17:35Muy bueno.
17:40MarÃa is not alone in keeping Mallorca's culinary traditions alive.
17:46Back in Palma, I've heard that there's a remarkable display
17:49of historical goodies.
17:53What a beautiful place.
17:56This is the most wonderful smell.
17:58Hola, Tomeo.
17:59Hola, ¿qué tal?
18:00¿Cómo estás, Michael?
18:01MarÃa José, ¿qué tal?
18:03Qué sitio más formidable, qué lugar.
18:07Tomeo and MarÃa José started their business in 2010
18:10with a very particular passion.
18:12Me interesaba mucho la antropologÃa, la sociologÃa, la historia de la gastronomÃa local.
18:19Esto generó en mà una pasión de probar de hacer estas recetas antiguas y de maravillarme de todo ese patrimonio tan rico que de alguna forma habÃamos perdido.
18:33HabÃamos perdido, ¿no?
18:34The result is an edible archive of mallocan pastries.
18:40I see things that I've never seen before.
18:42Do you want to show me what some of these things are?
18:44Tenemos recetas que son muy antiguas, como el Beskuit de la Reina, es una receta medieval.
18:54Qué buenÃsimo.
18:57Tenemos cocas asà muy tradicionales que se hacÃan en las casas, asà más grandes para compartir toda la familia.
19:09It turns out the shop is also a museum.
19:12There is a picture of Tomeo's grandmother.
19:15She was a very, very good cook and she used to work for the palaces and the big houses.
19:19And all these molds have been present from customers.
19:24Now, the interesting thing about this is that the molds help them to recover lost recipes.
19:29For example, this is called an imperial cushion.
19:32It was made in a monastery and it had been entirely lost.
19:36But because they got the mold back, the old mold, they now know what shape it had and how it was made.
19:43Después, tenemos muchas ensaymadas, porque la ensaymada es lo más conocido, lo más famoso de Mallorca.
19:51These sweet spiral pastries decorated with fruit are Tomeo and MarÃa José's bestsellers.
19:59Should we go inside and see how you work?
20:01Muy bien. Adelante.
20:05Baked fresh every day, they originate from a period of religious persecution in the island's history.
20:11It's a very simple dough.
20:13Eggs, flour, water, a tiny bit of sugar, a little bit of olive oil.
20:18Ahora tú puedes poner la manteca.
20:20Ah, sÃ.
20:21SÃ.
20:22Ahora tú vas para allá.
20:23SÃ.
20:24SÃ.
20:25En cantidad.
20:26The pork fat makes it more stretchable because we're trying to make a very thin pastry with this.
20:31Look at the way it's stretched, isn't that unbelievable?
20:36It's then left to prove for 30 minutes.
20:40Look, Michael.
20:41Ahora lo que vamos a hacer va a ser que vamos a hacer una trenza con estas dos cuerdas.
20:50The origin of this bread is thought to be Jewish.
20:53It was used at festivities for the Jewish New Year.
20:57And plaited bread in Jewish culture would mean the binding together of people.
21:02People coming together to celebrate their unions and their connections.
21:06This plat with its pork fat is linked to the island's Shweta Jews who were forced to convert to Catholicism from the 14th century.
21:15That's just muy complicado.
21:16Look at that.
21:17Qué arte.
21:18What skill.
21:19Leading many to conceal their Jewish heritage.
21:23How could a Jewish bread have pork fat in it?
21:26En Mallorca, los judÃos, bueno, hubo una persecución muy grave sobre ellos.
21:32Entonces, lo que pensamos que hacÃan era poner grasa de cerdo para salvar la piel de alguna forma,
21:41para salvarse, porque esto podÃa significar la muerte.
21:47By the 1600s, the ensay mother plat had become a feature of Mallorcan festivals,
21:53and later spread across the world, with local versions made from the Philippines to Latin America.
22:00So this is what happens after 24 hours in the cupboard.
22:03It has swelled up, and all those gaps have closed in.
22:07Ooh, qué buena pinta tiene.
22:08Looks marvellous.
22:09The ensay mothers made by Tomeo and Mario Jose come with a variety of toppings.
22:15And this season, we're decorating ours with fresh figs.
22:18Could it be other fruits at other times of year?
22:21En mayo o junio, junio, ponemos albaricoques.
22:26May and June, we use apricots.
22:28Ponemos también, aparte de fruta, se pone sobrasada.
22:31Goodness, so you can put sausage on. It's amazing that, isn't it?
22:36This pastry will taste savoury or sweet.
22:41This one is definitely sweet.
22:44That's quite a lot of sugar.
22:46Then it's into the oven for 30 minutes.
22:52All the way to the end.
22:59Usually enjoyed at breakfast with coffee or hot chocolate, I simply cannot wait.
23:05It looks wonderful.
23:06Would you please do the honours?
23:07Would you cut it for us, please?
23:08Oh, yeah.
23:10So much history in this.
23:12Michael.
23:13Gracias.
23:15Bon profit.
23:16Bon profit.
23:17Bon profit.
23:20Excelente.
23:21As this bread is plaited together for our new friendship.
23:28Asi.
23:29Thank you so much.
23:34Next, I reveal a stunning stained glass.
23:38It's the second largest Gothic rose window in the world.
23:41And have a flutter on the 10pm at Parma.
23:44Looking good.
23:45The key up speed.
23:46Come on, Coloma.
23:51Our journey to some of my favourite parts of Spain continues on the island of Mallorca,
24:02in its capital city, Palma.
24:05With a population of under half a million people,
24:08it might come as a surprise that it boasts one of Europe's tallest Gothic cathedrals.
24:14What's more, most of it is open to the public, including the roof.
24:18Just be prepared for the 215 steps to reach it.
24:26The towers of the cathedral in Palma are not particularly high.
24:30But the roof of the central nave is at 144 feet.
24:34It's number eight in the world rankings.
24:37To support this enormous weight of wall, they used arched supports,
24:42which are known as flying buttresses.
24:45Indeed, this building is so colossal that they used double flying buttresses.
24:52The views from the roof are exceptional.
24:55But I think the interior is even more impressive.
25:02Commissioned in 1229 to mark the expulsion of the Muslims from Mallorca,
25:07it took another 370 years to complete.
25:11More recently, Catalan architect Antony Gaudi oversaw more modern additions,
25:17like this sculptural canopy hanging over the altar.
25:24But my favourite feature is one of its most ancient.
25:27The diameter of that Gothic rose window is equal to the length of six very tall men.
25:36It's the second largest Gothic rose window in the world.
25:40And it covers the stone with these glorious stains of colour.
25:44I was lucky enough to attend Christmas mass here.
25:48And at midnight on the altar, by custom, a woman or a child holding a sword
25:55sings prophetic chants in the old Catalan language.
26:00In years of attending Catholic mass, I had never heard anything like it.
26:04And it made me realise how very singular is this island.
26:08The cathedral rises where the Grand Mosque once was.
26:16Close by stands an Islamic monument that has survived from one culture to the next.
26:23Following the Christian reconquest,
26:26the royal palace of the Almudaina became an official residence of the Spanish royal family.
26:33Hola, Luis.
26:34Luis is the palace's architectural historian.
26:38Hola, Michael. Encantado.
26:40Muchisimo gusto.
26:41This is a magnificent palace.
26:43Tell me about it.
26:45Pensemos que en el siglo segundo antes de Cristo aquà hubo un asentamiento romano,
26:49un castro romano.
26:50Hasta el 903 que los musulmanes invaden la isla
26:54y se asientan aquà durante muchÃsimo tiempo.
26:57The Islamic settlers renamed Palma as Medina Mallorca
27:01and built a fortress or Alcazaba to defend their new city.
27:08Pensemos que lo que tenemos aquÃ, la torre que estamos viendo en la parte de atrás,
27:11por una parte de la Alcazaba musulmana inicial
27:15que luego se transforma en ese Alcazaba cristiano.
27:19During the 1300s, while constructing the cathedral next door,
27:22the Christians set about transforming the Islamic citadel into a Gothic palace.
27:28En este espacio estamos viendo exactamente el carácter defensivo que tenÃa la Almudaina.
27:36Vemos aeteras para la defensa del complejo, de todo lo que es la Alcazaba.
27:42Y si nos fijamos en el techo, un techo magnÃfico con un artesonado
27:46que representa la noche y el dÃa, el blanco y el negro,
27:48es un techo que se crea luego ya en el siglo XIV.
27:55It's all wonderful, such an amazing combination
27:58of different styles and different periods of history.
28:05For just seven pounds, the palace is open to the public
28:09most days of the week, except Mondays.
28:11Luis, this is quite a surprise.
28:19I'm looking down into a room,
28:22and then towards some mirrors which are reflecting
28:24what looks like a series of chambers underneath us here.
28:27What is this?
28:29Pues estamos en los baños que se conocen árabes,
28:32pero realmente pensamos que son originados en época romana.
28:35Y lo que estamos viendo aquà es el lugar debajo de estas salas
28:38donde se producÃa ese calor.
28:41Las calderas donde provocaban ese vapor de agua
28:45y ese calor que calentaba el agua.
28:48It's all very civilized, and actually very large,
28:50bigger than my bathroom, but I can be ambitious.
28:56The Spanish royal family still uses the palace for state events,
29:00and outside you can see why centuries of Spanish and Mallorca monarchs
29:05have chosen it as their base.
29:06What a marvellous, commanding view over the Bay of Palma.
29:12I suppose that the people of Palma must be immensely proud
29:16of this wonderful heritage.
29:18Es un lugar que evidentemente puedes casi percibir
29:21de todos los lugares, de todos los sitios de la ciudad,
29:23y por supuesto es del mar.
29:25It's been a real privilege to see it with you.
29:27Thank you so much.
29:28Gracias, Michael. Un placer.
29:29As the afternoon fades and Palma's bars and restaurants grow busy,
29:39I've taken a ten-minute taxi ride to the outskirts of town,
29:42to the home of one of the island's most popular sports.
29:48This is Palma's Hippodrome Sombardo, the historic stadium for trot racing.
30:03Jockeys on horse-drawn buggies compete around a kilometre-long track.
30:10The Mallorca Hippodrome is a beautiful racecourse.
30:15What strikes me most on arrival, though, is actually the smell of barbecue.
30:22The steaks are high and steak to eat.
30:26On Friday evenings in summer, families and fans come to cheer on their favourite riders
30:33over a hearty buffet feast.
30:35How are you doing?
30:36I love to see you.
30:37My guide for the evening is Almu.
30:40I miss my hobby, and I've been basically raced around the race track.
30:43How many races will there be tonight, for example?
30:46Tonight we'll have six, a total of six races.
30:48And is there prize money involved?
30:50Yes.
30:52Each race tonight consists of eight horses and riders trotting over two and a half laps.
30:59Here they come towards the finishing line.
31:02Strict rules govern how they compete.
31:05Number five by what? Five lengths.
31:07Now, the surprising thing to me is that the horses are trotting, and the jockey has to make a real effort to make the horse only trot, not gallop.
31:20That is part of the scale. If you gallop during the race, you are disqualified from it.
31:25Organised horse races in the Balearic Islands represent three quarters of all those in Spain.
31:31There are around 1,200 trot riders.
31:35Hola.
31:36Hola.
31:37Almu's friend Coloma is one of them.
31:39Coloma, Michael, Michael Coloma.
31:41Normalmente, Coloma.
31:42Y como se llama el caballo?
31:44Ella es Mayrena, ahora tiene tres años.
31:46La puedo atacar?
31:47Si, si, si, claro.
31:48Perfectamente?
31:49Si.
31:51Es buena chica.
31:52Es buena chica.
31:53She's a good girl.
31:54A good girl.
31:55¿Qué caracterÃsticas tiene que tener el trabajo para hacer el trot?
31:59Bueno, tiene que ser rápida y también tiene que tener un buen motor.
32:06Si.
32:07Un buen corazón.
32:08Mayrena, ¿de dónde es?
32:09Nació aquà en Palma, en una finca que se llama Carnes Cofi.
32:13¿Cuándo empezaste tú a ser trotting?
32:15Con 18 años empecé.
32:17Ya hace un par de años, si.
32:20¿Y por qué te metiste?
32:22¿Cuál fue el motivo?
32:23Bueno, mi padre compró una yegua que estaba embarazada.
32:28Y empezamos a hacer potros y venir más a las carreras y entrenar y tal y empezamos a correr.
32:35Y luego asÃ, ya cuando te metes, te metes de lleno.
32:42These gorgeous horses, known as Mallorcan trotters, are bred broad and strong,
32:48making them ideal for this type of racing.
32:51¿Esta noche a qué hora es tu carrera?
32:55A la diez.
32:56¿Y llevas el número uno?
32:57SÃ.
32:58Pues yo voy a estar muy atento.
33:00Perfecto. Muy bien.
33:01Y muchÃsima suerte.
33:02Gracias.
33:03Que te vaya muy bien.
33:04Igualmente.
33:05¿Cómo estás?
33:06¿Cómo estás?
33:07¿Cómo estás?
33:08¿Cómo estás?
33:09¿Cómo estás?
33:10¿Cómo estás?
33:11¿Cómo estás?
33:12¿Cómo estás?
33:13¿Cómo estás?
33:14¿Cómo estás?
33:15¿Cómo estás?
33:16¿Cómo estás?
33:17¿Cómo estás?
33:18¿Cómo estás?
33:19¿Cómo estás?
33:20¿Cómo estás?
33:21¿Cómo estás?
33:22¿Cómo estás?
33:23¿Cómo estás?
33:24¿Cómo estás?
33:25¿Cómo estás?
33:26Por torrada, it's found at fiestas, family occasions, and events like this.
33:32Got the menu here, and all the meat is beautifully displayed.
33:36We have real options as well as some of our major conditions.
33:40Right.
33:41Yeah.
33:42Tonight there's squid and suckling pig.
33:45But for me...
33:54Al Muzdad Juan Antonio is president of the Trop Racing Federation.
33:59¿Qué tal esta noche?
34:00¿Qué tal le va?
34:01Muy bien.
34:02De momento muy bien.
34:03Mucha gente, mucho ambiente.
34:05De momento todo fantástico.
34:07Pues yo he apostado en Coloma.
34:10Tiene posibilidades.
34:12Espero que sÃ. Ojalá.
34:16Looking good.
34:17They're coming towards the start now.
34:20Piggy up speed.
34:22There it goes.
34:23How the race has started.
34:27There she is, Coloma, riding Bayonetta, which is number one.
34:30And they go by in a flash of colour.
34:31After one lap, Coloma's in fourth place in the middle of the pack.
34:43Come on, Coloma.
34:44Oh, it's enough to put you off your state, please.
34:55Into the home straight, Coloma and Mayrena push up the field.
35:01This is it.
35:02Hello.
35:03Hello.
35:04Snatching second place as they cross the line.
35:10Close, but not close enough.
35:12She must have made quite a spurt at the end there.
35:19Yeah.
35:20I was seeing her in fourth place.
35:21And suddenly here at the finishing line, she was second.
35:23Yeah.
35:24She would be really pleased with it.
35:25Good.
35:26Well, what a lovely evening.
35:27Juan Antonio, thank you so much.
35:28Gracias a vosotros.
35:29Salud.
35:30Gracias.
35:31Encantado.
35:32Next.
35:33What a wonderful gallery.
35:35And historic press.
35:36What has passed through this machine is the life of Mallorca.
35:40Impresses me.
35:41That really is such an honour.
35:50It's my final day of exploring Mallorca.
35:53And I'm in the heart of Parma.
35:55It's Old Town.
35:58The religions which have left the strongest marks on Spain
36:01have been Islam and Christianity.
36:05But on Mallorca, Judaism also made its impact
36:08from Roman times until the late 14th century.
36:13That spectacular arch marked the entrance to the old Jewish ghetto.
36:20Palma's Jewish quarter, known as Cal Mayor,
36:23was surrounded by a huge gated wall.
36:26Many of the buildings, like this church,
36:28were built where a Jewish monument once stood.
36:35There used to be a synagogue here.
36:36And to this day, people may be drawn by the energy of the place,
36:39leave thoughts or prayers in the gaps between the stones.
36:45Mallorca had a thriving Jewish population,
36:47which was tolerated during the centuries of Islamic occupation.
36:52But things took a turn for the worse with the return of the Christians.
36:56In 1435, there was a mass conversion of Jews,
36:59and during the Spanish Inquisition, many were tortured and executed.
37:04Nonetheless, some Jews maintained their rituals in secret
37:08and continued to intermarry and would deceive the authorities
37:12by working on the Sabbath and eating pork.
37:16These people, the so-called Shwetas,
37:19are identifiable even to this day as a distinct community.
37:23And it is a remarkable story of resilience against oppression.
37:26One such Shweta family has run a successful printing business
37:35in the heart of Parma for almost a century.
37:45What a wonderful gallery.
37:47I absolutely love it.
37:53Tell me the story.
38:03The firm began in 1913,
38:06and Roberto's two children are the fourth generation in the firm.
38:10Tell me about being part of a Shweta family.
38:12My name is Aguiló Ponén.
38:15It is one of the 15 names
38:17the most relevant in the world of Shweta.
38:22This came because there was a persecution in Mallorca
38:26of the Shwetas.
38:29Forced to convert to Catholicism,
38:32the community still faced persecution,
38:35and in 1688 a group attempted to escape to England
38:39but was driven back by a storm.
38:42Five of them were condemned to death.
38:45At that point, the church published a list of 15 surnames
38:49of the people who were involved,
38:51and it was like a curse was placed upon these surnames,
38:55including his surname and his mother's surname.
38:58The Shwetas continued to be ostracized until very recently.
39:02Until very recently.
39:03Yo, en mis propias carnes, en mis edad escolar,
39:09he tenido bullying.
39:11Bullying.
39:12Bullying, sÃ.
39:13And, well, it was a normal thing.
39:16Then, when we were already in the 70s,
39:22it began to secarse.
39:25There was practically no evidence of this.
39:29There was a certain interest,
39:31I myself,
39:33not to return to Judaism,
39:34but to know my past,
39:38it was interesting to know my past,
39:42to understand me now.
39:44Today, the print shop is run by Roberto's children,
39:48Roberto Junior and Belen,
39:50and they've recently collaborated on a project
39:53to reissue classic vintage posters
39:56from Mallorca's golden age of tourism.
39:58What were the most important posters that you found?
40:02In this poster, for example,
40:03we saw a swimmer.
40:04It was a swimming tournament
40:06and it was done in July 1936.
40:11But the Civil War began on the 18th of July, 1936,
40:15so the poster was printed for an event that never occurred.
40:24Using the surviving 1930s printing press,
40:27Roberto needs a hand with a special limited-edition print.
40:32This is a picture of Pal de Mossa
40:34and we're going to print some words on top.
40:38What has passed through this machine
40:40is the history of the culture and the sport
40:42and the life of Mallorca.
40:46With some careful tinkering,
40:48another future classic rolls off the press.
40:54That really is such an honour
40:55to have a poster printed in the 1930 machine
40:58by such a distinguished Mallorca family.
41:01Muchas gracias.
41:06What a superb memento of my time on this island.
41:12Beyond the beaches and popular resorts
41:15that it's become known for...
41:17Gracias.
41:19...on a trip that's had a real impact on me.
41:23I've been so impressed by the strengths of families on Mallorca.
41:28And one generation passes to the next,
41:31traditions and skills.
41:32So, we have one family that is passionate about the production of almonds,
41:38which are, of course, the best in the world.
41:41Another family has a gallery
41:43and has that great enthusiasm for the images
41:47which show the traditional customs and the history of the island.
41:50And then our bakers, who are so determined not to let tradition die,
41:58not to allow old recipes to go into obscurity.
42:03I think many people who visit Mallorca find a small island with a big heart.
42:09I believe I've also discovered a small island with a big soul.
42:12Next time, absolutely spectacular, I'll show you the surprising side of AndalucÃa.
42:25This is a great adventure.
42:27Oh, amazing!
42:30It sure is a mean-looking town.
42:34That's rather strange. What is this pink drink?
42:37Delicioso.
42:42Well, Michael's got till next Thursday at 8 to perfect those steps.
42:48And edging ever closer to the finish line,
42:52Jay McDonald's on top of the world
42:54as her pole-to-pole adventure continues brand new tomorrow at 8.
42:58Life threw Dave a tragic curveball,
43:01so he took the plunge on a new life in the wild and on the water.
43:04Ben Fogel meets him new next.
43:06Space
43:24Space
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