America's Test Kitchen Season 26 Episode 7

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Transcript

00:00To be continued

00:30Today on America's Test Kitchen, Erica makes Bridget chicken yassa, Jack challenges Bridget

00:43and Julia to a head-to-head tasting of chicken broth, and Becky makes Julia Peruvian arroz

00:50con pollo.

00:51It's all coming up right here on America's Test Kitchen.

01:00Today, we're making chicken yassa, a beautiful chicken and rice dish that comes from Senegal.

01:10Now, yassa means, literally, cooked in onions, and I love anything cooked in onions, so I

01:15can't wait.

01:16And Erica's here.

01:17She's going to show us how to make this.

01:19It's such a flavorful chicken dish that's super delicious, and also super simple and straightforward

01:25and hard to mess up, quite frankly.

01:27Oh, right up my alley.

01:28It starts with our marinade.

01:30I have a third of a cup of lemon juice, one and a half tablespoons of oil, two tablespoons

01:38of Dijon mustard.

01:39Okay.

01:40A lot of tangy flavors here.

01:41Mm-hmm.

01:41So bright.

01:43And a teaspoon of table salt.

01:46And I'll just whisk that together.

01:48Okay.

01:48So four ingredients for our marinade, and to that, I have two pounds of bone-in skin-on

01:55chicken thighs that have trimmed to remove the excess fat.

01:58So I have my chicken, it's nicely coated in the marinade, so we are ready to cover it.

02:05And I'm going to refrigerate it for 30 to 60 minutes.

02:07Okay.

02:08It's been an hour, so let's start cooking our chicken.

02:11Great.

02:12So I have two tablespoons of oil that's been heating over medium heat in the Dutch oven.

02:16And now that it's shimmering, I'm just going to add the chicken thighs in.

02:20And the chicken is going to cook for six to eight minutes until it's nicely browned.

02:24It's been eight minutes, so let's flip the chicken on the other side.

02:34And now I'll let the chicken cook for another six to eight minutes on the other side.

02:38Okay, great.

02:39While the chicken cooks, let's talk about the onions.

02:41Yes.

02:42Because yasa means cooked in onions.

02:43We want to make sure that we have equal part chicken to onions.

02:47So we have two pounds of chicken, two pounds of onions.

02:50That's a lot of onion.

02:51It's been eight minutes, and our chicken looks beautiful.

02:56The fat is rendered, and that's what the onions are going to cook in.

02:59So I'm going to take the chicken out, and I'll add in the onions.

03:03Okay.

03:03Two pounds of our thinly sliced onions, and half a teaspoon of salt.

03:08I'm just going to stir it together, and as I do, I'm just going to scrape up all those brown bits.

03:13They're packed full of flavor, and I want to get all of that flavor in the onions.

03:18All right.

03:19I'm going to reduce the heat to medium-low.

03:21And I'll let the onions cook for about 25 to 30 minutes until they fully caramelize.

03:26And every now and then, I'll just come back and give them a quick stir.

03:29So our onions are almost done.

03:32So I'm going to let them finish cooking.

03:34And in fact, Bridget, do you mind just checking in on the onions for me?

03:37I'll keep spoon duty.

03:38All right.

03:39I appreciate that.

03:40And meanwhile, I'm just going to finish and do a little bit more prep.

03:43So I have eight garlic cloves.

03:44So I'm just going to smash these.

03:48I also have one whole habanero.

03:51Ooh.

03:51To make sure that it just falls slowly in the braise, what I like to do is just pierce it

03:55a few times with a paring knife.

03:58And then that's it.

03:59So now, time to add the braising liquid.

04:01Okay, great.

04:02I have one and a third cup of chicken broth, eight peeled and smashed garlic cloves.

04:07There they go.

04:09One habanero.

04:12And a quarter teaspoon of black pepper.

04:15And our reserved marinade.

04:16Oh, yeah.

04:17I almost forgot about that.

04:18Yep.

04:18Now I'm just going to stir it all together, bring it up to a simmer, and then add the chicken

04:25back in.

04:26Okay.

04:28Now I'm adding back the accumulated chicken juices.

04:32And I'll just gently stir it.

04:34And then I'll cover it and let the chicken cook until it's fall off the bone tender.

04:41Okay.

04:42And so flavorful.

04:43It's going to take about 45 to 55 minutes.

04:46This smells heavenly.

04:47Doesn't it?

04:49It's been 55 minutes.

04:51So let's check on our yas.

04:52Okay.

04:53That looks so good.

04:55Oh, my gosh.

04:56Oh, my goodness.

04:58So what I'm going to do is we want to fall off the bone fork tender chicken.

05:03Right.

05:03So I'm going to go in and test one of my chicken thighs.

05:06Ooh.

05:07Yes.

05:08It's nice and tender.

05:10In Senegal, a lot of dishes are served family style and served with rice and over rice.

05:15So I'm going to take the chicken out and place it right over the bed of rice.

05:19So I'm just going to check the consistency of the sauce because we're looking for the consistency of heavy cream.

05:25Okay.

05:25I'm just going to dive in here.

05:28That is exactly what we want.

05:30It nicely coats the spoon there.

05:31Okay.

05:32So let's finish off the sauce with two tablespoons of lemon juice.

05:38And I'm going to season it with some salt and pepper.

05:40Okay.

05:41So I'm just going to take the onions in the sauce and spoon them right over our chicken and rice.

05:46Fabulous.

05:46The whole test kitchen here is just filled with the aromas of caramelized onions and garlic.

05:53Gorgeous.

05:54Now I'm just going to finish it off with about one and a half teaspoons of chopped parsley.

05:58Okay.

05:59Sprinkle that right over.

06:01And I'm going to also garnish it with some fresh lemons.

06:05Now we're ready to serve.

06:06All right.

06:08Mm-hmm.

06:10Let's get some of those caramelized onions.

06:14And of course, a lemon wedge.

06:15Yes.

06:15I like to take a lemon and squeeze it over.

06:19We have that concentrated lemon flavor from the slow braise, but this just wakens everything

06:24up a bit.

06:26All right.

06:27Cut into some of that beautiful chicken here.

06:29Mm-hmm.

06:30A lot of onions.

06:31It is yassa after all.

06:33Yes.

06:34Mm.

06:35What do you think?

06:36I expected one thing, but this is like deep, deep flavored with lemon.

06:41Mm-hmm.

06:42This dish just feels like coming home to me.

06:46It's so packed full of the concentrated lemony depth, tender chicken, rice.

06:52It really doesn't get much better than this for me.

06:54Mm-hmm.

06:56I think I'm noticing a little bit of heat from that habanero.

07:00Yes.

07:00Not too much at all.

07:02And you also get some of that fruity complexity, too, from the habanero.

07:05So it's not just knock your socks off heat.

07:07It's also that complexity that really balances the lemon flavor quite nicely.

07:11Oh, my gosh.

07:13Those onions are something really special.

07:15Right?

07:16Just fall apart.

07:18Mm.

07:19Mm-hmm.

07:20It's a centerpiece.

07:21It's a masterpiece.

07:23It's everything you want out of chicken and rice.

07:25Thank you so, so much for bringing this to us.

07:28Happy to be here.

07:29You definitely want to make this one.

07:31It is fantastic.

07:33And it all starts by marinating chicken thighs with tangy lemon juice and mustard.

07:37Brown the chicken and then caramelize two pounds of sliced onions in the rendered fat.

07:42Finally, add the reserved marinade back to the onions and braise the chicken until fall apart tender.

07:48So from America's Test Kitchen, the incredible, the incomparable chicken yassa.

08:02So I have a confession to make.

08:05Uh-oh.

08:06That's never good.

08:07No.

08:08When it comes to chicken broth, I buy by format.

08:12So you can prioritize format, ingredient list, or flavor.

08:18And so by format, I mean I buy the paste because I want to buy a little teeny jar that will make 38 cups of broth.

08:26It also can make a quarter cup or a half cup of broth and you're not left with an empty container that you've got.

08:32What am I going to do with three and a half cups of more broth?

08:34True.

08:34But this is America's Test Kitchen.

08:37We care about flavor.

08:39So you are going to be tasting and telling me of these samples, which is the best tasting.

08:45I should give you a warning.

08:47Of the samples that we tasted, many of them were not recommended.

08:50Oh.

08:51Landmines.

08:53Landmines ahead.

08:53So we did risotto, we made gravy, but I thought this was the easiest way to taste them.

08:59So the format, there are three choices.

09:00You can get a box.

09:01It's four cups.

09:03It is going to be a little bit more expensive.

09:05It's heavier if you're carrying your groceries.

09:07And most importantly, once you open the container, you really need to finish it in the next couple

09:11of days.

09:11You can get a concentrated paste.

09:14It's, you know, as it says, it's got a little bit of liquid in it.

09:18Or you can get a powdered, you know, bouillon cube, basically, but in powdered form that you

09:23can scrape out what you want.

09:24The other thing is, do you want something that's got chicken, carrots, onions, and celery,

09:30and that's kind of it for the ingredient list, along with some salt?

09:33Or what about hydrolyzed soy protein?

09:36That sounds delicious.

09:37Mmm.

09:38When it came to the ingredient list, we felt like the ingredient list was actually the

09:42least useful thing here.

09:44Some of the brands that read like homemade kind of tasted like homemade, and some of the

09:48brands that read like homemade tasted sour.

09:52They had weird flavors.

09:54A lot of the vegetables overtook the chicken, and you're like, okay, this is like some weird

09:58vegetable broth, and it's not good.

10:00Right.

10:01And that some of the more less natural, however we put it that way, brands were actually closer

10:07to chicken flavor.

10:09Well, immediate impressions, this one is super salty.

10:14In fact, so much so it almost killed my palate to taste anything else.

10:18I don't think I like it.

10:21There's a really odd celery flavor in there.

10:23I mean, celery belongs in stock, but we've gone overboard.

10:26This took me back to 1973 at my grandma's house, and I'm sick.

10:30That's what it tastes like.

10:32I think I know exactly what this is.

10:34Also used a lot in industrial kitchens.

10:36Okay.

10:37That's what I'm thinking.

10:38This one, the color, not too appealing.

10:43Very bland, and there's a, what is that?

10:50It's something in there that makes me very sad.

10:53That's sorrow.

10:55You're tasting sorrow.

10:56I think this one, it's not seasoned enough for me, but it's this, and if I could put like

11:01a spoonful of that in there, I'd be really happy.

11:03Okay.

11:03So I'm actually not happy too much with any of them.

11:06Okay.

11:07Well, I'm glad I've made you miserable then.

11:08Yeah.

11:09Glad it's sad.

11:09Yeah.

11:10Yeah.

11:10I'll perk up in a minute.

11:12Are you miserable and sad, Julia?

11:14No, no, but it was really interesting.

11:16I mean, this D, which you said tastes like sorrow, it looks bruised.

11:20It tastes awful.

11:21It's watery, metallic.

11:23Didn't like it at all.

11:24This, like Bridget, very nostalgic.

11:26I think I can picture this in a little cube.

11:29Yes.

11:29And it has been in the cupboard since the 70s.

11:31Yes.

11:32This, I mean, it looks milky.

11:34It tastes really strong.

11:36Yeah.

11:36I feel like it could be diluted down a bit more.

11:38That's it.

11:38And it would be great.

11:39That's it.

11:40But it's just too strong.

11:41I loved this the first time I tasted it, but then when I went down and back the second

11:45time, I thought it was bland.

11:46But the first time, it tasted clean.

11:48It had a clean chicken flavor, just really mild.

11:51So you're picking as your favorites?

11:54I liked A.

11:55Okay.

11:55The first time.

11:56And I think it would be a good base level if you're making a soup.

12:00I did like this if it was watered down.

12:01The color is unnerving.

12:03If you could see the color, like if you were making a risotto, the risotto would be this

12:06color.

12:07You'd think it was saffron risotto.

12:08So I think that might turn me off for some recipes.

12:11All right.

12:11And where are you landing?

12:14I'm really reluctant to pick anything.

12:16I think, you know, if I was making a soup, I would go with something like this.

12:21Although, as I mentioned and Julia said, too, once I got past here, I had a hard time tasting

12:25it again.

12:26But if this is reconstituted and it was reconstituted at a much weaker level, I think it would be fine

12:32in a soup.

12:33So why don't we sort of go down the line?

12:36All right.

12:37So A is our winner.

12:40This is Swanson.

12:41Okay.

12:41It has a very simple ingredient list.

12:44It's chicken, salt, onions, carrots, celery, and cabbage.

12:49You know, we like it.

12:50It is the closest to homemade, I think, of anything that we tasted and certainly anything here on

12:54the table.

12:56B, so this is what I'm using at home.

12:58Yeah.

12:58This is the paste, the Better Than Bouillon.

13:01It's awfully salty and you will want to dilute it a little bit, especially if you're going

13:05to be cooking it down.

13:07It's got all kinds of ingredients that are difficult to pronounce, but it kind of gets

13:12you there on a flavor basis.

13:14You both recognize the Knorr.

13:16Yeah.

13:16So, you know, this is basically the bouillon cube that's in a powdered four so that you

13:20can scoop out whether you want a half teaspoon, a teaspoon, and then reconstitute it.

13:24It's got the little bits of dried herbs in it.

13:27And it wasn't bad.

13:28It ended up recommended with reservations.

13:31It's got a sort of nostalgic taste.

13:33It's hospital broth.

13:35And then D is the kettle and fire.

13:38And I put it here.

13:39So this is organic.

13:41And if you read the ingredient list, everything is natural sounding, but a couple of things

13:47stood out.

13:48One, it's got a long list of vegetables.

13:50So there's mushrooms in here.

13:52There's tamarind in here.

13:54There's tomato.

13:56And so there's like things that like, is that beyond the carrots and the celery and

14:00the onions?

14:01Tamarind.

14:01Yeah.

14:01And it's a little sour, I felt.

14:04And the vegetables are kind of overshadowing the chicken.

14:07And so this was a good example.

14:08And we found several other brands where even though the labels sell, well, that seems like

14:12homemade.

14:13Didn't really taste like homemade.

14:16Didn't taste very good.

14:16So we've got some consensus that probably the Swanson has the most sort of classic chicken

14:25broth flavor.

14:26But you guys kind of sound like you agree with me that if you want to be super lazy and

14:31have 38 cups of broth at your disposal when you want it, that the Better Than Bouillon

14:37is a good choice.

14:39Buy the flavor, not the water.

14:40Chicken and rice is a dish cooked all over the world, with each region adding its own

14:52spin, either in terms of cooking method or flavor.

14:55But today, Becky's going to show us a version inspired by the cuisine of Peru.

14:59Yes.

14:59This is a one-pot meal.

15:00It's got juicy chicken, fluffy rice, lots of colorful vegetables, spices, aromatics.

15:06So we're going to start with the chicken.

15:08I have six five to seven ounce bone-in chicken thighs here.

15:13And we're going to season them up.

15:14I have one and a half teaspoons of salt.

15:16Okay.

15:17And these have been trimmed and patted dry.

15:19These are going to be braised, so they're going to cook all the way to 195.

15:23Can't overdo it.

15:25All right, there we go.

15:25Our chicken is seasoned.

15:27I have two tablespoons of vegetable oil heating up over medium heat here.

15:31I'm just going to go ahead and put the chicken in the pot, skin side down, because we want

15:35that skin to get nice and crispy.

15:36All right, so we're going to leave these in the pot for eight to 12 minutes.

15:41Not going to move them at all.

15:43Then the skin will be round and we'll flip them over.

15:44Okay.

15:45All right, it's been about 10 minutes.

15:46What?

15:48All that crackling, right?

15:49That's a good sound.

15:50Good things are happening.

15:51It is a good sound.

15:52All right, let's take a peek.

15:53Oh.

15:54Hello.

15:55Look at that.

15:56That looks delicious.

15:56That looks amazing.

15:57That's that crispy skin that's going to taste so good.

16:00So I'm just going to flip all these over and we'll let them go for two more minutes until

16:02they brown on the second side.

16:04Okay.

16:06All right, it's been about two minutes.

16:08The chicken's brown on the other side, so I'm going to take it out and put it on a plate

16:10here.

16:13Look at all that beautiful fond left in the pot.

16:15Oh, I know.

16:16That's good stuff.

16:17That's what we call the liquid gold, right?

16:18Yep.

16:19So now we're going to make what's called an aderezo.

16:21It's the flavor base for this dish and actually for lots of Peruvian dishes.

16:25We're starting with one red onion, chopped up fine.

16:29Put it right in there.

16:31Tablespoon of garlic.

16:34Now I have aji amarillo.

16:36This is a paste of yellow Peruvian chilis.

16:39It's kind of fruity, hot.

16:41It varies in spice level from brand to brand, so you want to taste it before you cook with

16:44it.

16:44This is pretty spicy, but we're going to use all of it because you like it spicy, right?

16:47Yeah, I do.

16:48Half a teaspoon of cumin and then three-quarter teaspoon of salt.

16:55So we're going to let this cook for about five minutes.

16:57We want the onion to get nice and soft and we'll continue.

17:02All right, it's been about five minutes and the onions are nice and soft now.

17:06Now I have a Peruvian beer here.

17:08Is that Cusqueña Negra?

17:10Oh my gosh, you're good.

17:11Yeah, I love that beer.

17:13That's what it is.

17:14Okay.

17:15You can use any smooth, malty beer for this.

17:18So we're going to add this to the pot.

17:20We want this to cook down until the beer is almost dry.

17:22That's going to take seven to ten minutes.

17:24Okay.

17:25So we'll let that bubble away and while that cooks, let's go over and do the cilantro.

17:29I have two cups of cilantro and you'll see I left all the stems on.

17:33Yeah.

17:33And that's actually the most flavorful part of the herb and it also makes it super easy

17:36too.

17:37Yep.

17:37Just throw it all in the blender.

17:38So two cups and that goes and I'm going to add a half a cup of water and we're just going

17:44to let that puree.

17:49All right, so it's been about seven minutes.

17:51You can see that beer has almost completely evaporated, but all that flavor is concentrated

17:55in the bottom of the pot.

17:56So now let's add our cilantro puree.

18:00All right, so there's our braising liquid.

18:02I'm going to add the chicken back to the pot.

18:04Of course, I want to put it skin side up.

18:06I want to preserve that chicken skin.

18:07You can see that most of the chicken is actually above the braising liquid.

18:10That's what we want.

18:11Put those juices in, all that flavor, right?

18:14I'm just going to lower the heat a little.

18:16We just want to maintain a simmer.

18:18I'm going to put the lid on.

18:19We'll let this cook until the chicken registers at least 195 degrees.

18:23That'll take 18 to 20 minutes.

18:24Okay.

18:25Okay, it's been 20 minutes.

18:27Let's take a peek, see what's going on in here.

18:29Ooh.

18:30Oh.

18:31Mm, smell that here.

18:33The smells.

18:34There's a lot going on with the aromas.

18:36Oh, I know.

18:36I can't wait to taste this.

18:37So good.

18:39Let's check the chicken.

18:40It needs to be at least 195 degrees.

18:45196.

18:46Nailed it.

18:47All right, so now we're going to take this chicken out.

18:50And now I have this beautiful cooking liquid.

18:52Yeah.

18:53And we're going to use this to cook the rice.

18:54But I want to make sure I have the perfect amount of liquid so that our rice is just right.

18:59We don't want it to be dry, undercooked, and we also don't want it to be mushy and soft.

19:02Makes sense.

19:03So I'm going to pour it into my measuring cup here.

19:05I have a four-cup liquid measuring cup, and I'm just going to put all the liquid and the

19:09solids right into that cup.

19:14And then I have two cups of chicken broth.

19:16So I'm going to add enough chicken broth so that it measures three and a half cups.

19:22All right, so exactly three and a half cups.

19:25Nailed it.

19:25So we're going to put that back into the pot.

19:28So I have one and a half cups of long grain white rice here, and I rinsed it really well.

19:34I want to get rid of any starch because I'm looking for that really nice, fluffy rice.

19:38In fact, there's even a term for the perfect Arroz Campoyo rice, and it's called graniato.

19:43Graniato.

19:44It's talking about that nice, loose, light, fluffy texture that we're after.

19:47So you get that by rinsing the rice and measuring your cooking liquid.

19:50I like it.

19:51So let's put that rice into the pot.

19:57And then here comes the colorful veggies I was talking about.

20:00So these are the traditional vegetables that are added to this dish.

20:03We have two carrots.

20:04Put those in.

20:07And then one red bell pepper.

20:10Stir that in.

20:12Now we're going to bring this to a boil.

20:14Then I'll turn down the heat to a simmer, put the lid on, and we'll let that cook for 20 to 25 minutes,

20:19and that rice is going to be just right.

20:20Okay.

20:24All right, it's been about 20 minutes.

20:25Let's take a look at our rice.

20:27Oh.

20:28Oh.

20:29That looks so good.

20:30It really does.

20:31So we're going to add half a cup of frozen green peas.

20:35Let's mix that in.

20:37All right, now I'm going to add our chicken back into the pot, skin side up.

20:44Okay.

20:45And let's get all these juices in there, too.

20:47I was just thinking that.

20:48All right, now let's put the lid on, let this sit for five or ten minutes, just let the peas thaw out, and the chicken will stay nice and warm.

20:57And so while that sits, let's make a salsa criolla.

21:00So I have one red onion and half teaspoon of salt, and I just set it over a strainer here.

21:07We're just going to get out some excess liquid out of this onion.

21:09Oh, okay.

21:09And we'll let this sit for ten minutes, and then we'll come back, and I'll show you how to finish the salsa criolla.

21:15Okay, it's been ten minutes, and you can see the onions are glistening a little bit here.

21:20They've started to shed a little of their water, and so they're going to be nice and crisp.

21:24So I just want to rinse them off, rinse off that salt.

21:28All right, so those are rinsed.

21:30Now I'm just going to pat them dry on paper towels and put them in a bowl here.

21:34And now I'm just going to add a few simple ingredients.

21:38So I have two tablespoons of fresh lime juice, quarter cup of chopped cilantro, and then eighth teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

21:48And I know it seems so simple, Juliette.

21:51It really does.

21:51And it is, but it really adds a ton of flavor.

21:54It's just exactly what you want when you're eating this chicken and rice.

21:58So this has been sitting now for about five minutes.

22:01Everything's nice and warm.

22:02So let's get some nice chicken here.

22:05And now I'm going to scoop some of this rice.

22:07We're just going to make a little mold.

22:08This is what moms in Peru often do for their kids.

22:10Really?

22:11This is a fun way to serve the rice.

22:12We'll just put it on the plate here.

22:14One, two, three.

22:15Aw.

22:16Doesn't that look good?

22:17I love that.

22:18Dying to try this.

22:19Yeah, let me give you some of the salsa criolla.

22:21I'm going for the rice first.

22:22Me too.

22:23Get a little of that onion on there.

22:24All right.

22:31Mmm.

22:32Mmm.

22:36That's delicious.

22:38So many flavors going on here.

22:39There's the kick.

22:41Yeah.

22:41From that yellow chili paste.

22:43Yep.

22:44The malty beer.

22:45Mm-hmm.

22:45You get, of course, the cilantro coming through.

22:47Really herbal.

22:49Yeah.

22:49Fresh.

22:50I just want to point out how fluffy this rice is, too.

22:52Remember how we were talking about the ground yato?

22:53This is exactly what you want.

22:54Loose and fluffy.

22:56These onions are right next.

22:57I'm going big on the onions this bite.

22:58Oh, yeah.

22:59So crunchy because we salted them.

23:01Mm-hmm.

23:01Right?

23:01Mm-hmm.

23:02They're just the perfect thing to go with this rice.

23:04That's incredible.

23:05Very good.

23:06Yeah.

23:06Chicken now.

23:07I eat an onion with every bite.

23:08Mm-hmm.

23:09Mm-hmm.

23:10Man, chicken's perfectly cooked.

23:13Yeah.

23:14This is delicious.

23:16Thank you for showing me how to make this.

23:18This was really fun.

23:19This was fun.

23:20If you want to make this classic Peruvian chicken and rice dish, braise the chicken in

23:25an aromatic broth, flavored with aji amarillo, dark lager, and a fresh cilantro puree.

23:30Carefully measure out the cooking liquid for the rice and make the zarza criolla while

23:35the rice cooks.

23:36From America's Test Kitchen, a fragrant and flavorful recipe for Peruvian arroz con pollo.

23:42You can find this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews

23:47and select episodes at our website, americastestkitchen.com slash TV.

23:53I can't wait to make this for Ian.

23:55He is going to love it as much as I do.

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