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Cook's Country from America's Test Kitchen Season 18 Episode 7

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Transcript
00:00Cook's Country is about more than just getting dinner on the table.
00:09We're also fascinated by the people and stories behind the dishes.
00:14We go inside kitchens in every corner of the country to learn how real people cook.
00:20And we look back through time to see how history influences the way we eat today.
00:25We bring that inspiration back to our test kitchen so we can share it with you.
00:31This is Cook's Country.
00:37Today on Cook's Country, Ashley makes double chocolate banana bread.
00:43I share the story of how bananas took America by storm.
00:47Hannah reviews cold brew coffee makers.
00:50And Christy makes chocolate brownie cookies for Bridget.
00:54That's all right here on Cook's Country.
01:06Today, Ashley's going to take banana bread a step further and show us how to make chocolate banana bread.
01:11That's right.
01:12And not just any chocolate banana bread.
01:14I'm going to show you how to make a double chocolate banana bread.
01:18Double chocolate.
01:18Mm-hmm.
01:19All right.
01:19And it's not going to be too sweet and it's going to be just as tender and moist as the most amazing banana bread you've ever had.
01:26Okay.
01:26Now, for banana bread, obviously, it's all about the banana.
01:30Mm-hmm.
01:30But this banana is not ripe enough.
01:32Not yet.
01:32You see a few speckles.
01:34Mm-hmm.
01:34But we want really ripened bananas, almost black bananas.
01:38Yeah.
01:38So if you don't have overly ripe bananas, all you have to do is put the bananas in a 325-degree oven for just 20 minutes.
01:47Huh.
01:47And what you're going to get...
01:49That's what that is.
01:51Yes.
01:52Interesting.
01:52Mm-hmm.
01:53Well, that's kind of cool because now you can make banana bread anytime.
01:55You don't have to wait for that magic moment when you have four overly ripe bananas.
02:00Yes, exactly.
02:01So first thing I need to do is I need to mash some bananas.
02:05I'm just going to peel them.
02:07I'm curious to see what the inside looks like knowing that they've been roasted.
02:10Mm-hmm.
02:10Oh, yeah.
02:11Look how soft they are.
02:12Yep.
02:13All right.
02:14And I'll just continue with the rest of these.
02:17All right.
02:18So now I'm going to mash these bananas, and I'm going to be looking for a total cup amount of two cups of the mashed bananas.
02:28All right.
02:29So let's see how close I am.
02:33All right.
02:33Two cups.
02:35All right.
02:36So I'll add that right there.
02:37So now we've got some more wet ingredients.
02:39I have one cup of packed dark brown sugar.
02:42And here we have 10 tablespoons of melted and cooled unsalted butter.
02:46And then finally, two whole eggs.
02:49I'm just going to whisk until thoroughly combined.
02:52And there may be a few lumps in there, but...
02:54Banana lumps.
02:54Exactly.
02:55Now we've got our dry ingredients.
02:58Here I have one and a quarter cups of all-purpose flour.
03:00And then I have a quarter cup of cocoa powder.
03:03That looks like Dutch processed.
03:04Yes.
03:04Yep.
03:04It's Dutch processed.
03:05And it's going to give us a great overall cocoa powder, but it's not going to give us the full chocolate potential that I'm looking for.
03:13One and a quarter teaspoons of baking soda.
03:15Just going to add that right in here.
03:16Give it a nice whisk.
03:17And then finally, three quarters of a teaspoon of salt.
03:21I'm going to add our dry to the wet.
03:24And just whisk until combined.
03:26Again, a few lumps are A-okay.
03:30All right.
03:30And now I have four ounces of chopped bittersweet chocolate.
03:35Yum.
03:35So it's not going to add a ton of extra sweetness.
03:37We really want to control that here with the banana bread.
03:40And this is going to give us really amazing pockets of chocolate.
03:44Oh, it's so good.
03:46Now I have a loaf pan.
03:48Eight and a half inches by four and a half inches.
03:50I went ahead and sprayed it with some vegetable oil spray.
03:52And it's on this rimmed baking sheet just simply for insurance.
03:56Just because it is going to be quite full in case it wants to bubble over.
03:59I don't have to clean my oven.
04:00I just have to clean my baking sheet.
04:02And finally, two tablespoons of granulated sugar.
04:06And this is going to go just over top.
04:08It's going to give that really shiny, crispy, shellac-y sheen.
04:12All right.
04:13We are ready to go into the oven.
04:15The oven's been preheated at 350 degrees with the oven rack at the middle position.
04:19And it's going to bake for about an hour and ten minutes.
04:22Okay.
04:29Bananas are the most popular fruit in the United States.
04:33Which, dare I say, is a little bananas.
04:36Since there was a time when bananas didn't exist in North America.
04:40Starting in the 1880s, bananas were imported from tropical southern regions like the Caribbean.
04:46But they were expensive.
04:46In time, improvements in shipping helped get more of the fruit to U.S. markets.
04:52Banana prices dropped.
04:54Cookbooks celebrated the, quote, exotic fruit, publishing recipes for fried bananas, baked bananas,
05:01stewed bananas, banana pudding, and banana cake.
05:04A clever marketing campaign promoted bananas as a health food, even going so far as to claim
05:10that they treated certain illnesses, like tuberculosis and celiac disease.
05:15And while that marketing angle didn't last, promoting recipes with bananas as the main ingredient did.
05:22By the 1930s, recipes for banana bread were appearing everywhere.
05:29Fast forward to today, where we at Cook's Country have joined the chorus, singing the praises of bananas.
05:35We add a double dose of chocolate to make our banana bread extra special.
05:40Oh, smells so delicious.
05:56All right.
05:57So I want to check for doneness, and I'll know that it's done if a toothpick comes out clean.
06:01Okay.
06:02Perfect.
06:03All right.
06:04All right.
06:04And now I'm going to leave the banana bread in the pan to cool for about 30 minutes.
06:08Okay.
06:09All right.
06:09It's been 30 minutes, so I'm just going to tilt the pan here, which will help it come on out of the pan.
06:15All right.
06:16The unmolding.
06:17The unmolding.
06:19Oh, that's perfect.
06:21So now I'm going to leave this to cool for 30 more minutes, and then it's going to be time to taste.
06:26Okay.
06:26All right.
06:28Let's slice in.
06:29Mm-hmm.
06:31Do you want an end piece or an interior piece?
06:34No, I think I want an interior piece.
06:36All right.
06:38Well, I like how you cut them on the big side.
06:40You're not messing around.
06:42Mm-mm.
06:42Serves, too.
06:43Trust me, you're going to want a real big piece.
06:47Oh, smells chocolatey.
06:48Mm-hmm.
06:49But can you smell the banana?
06:50Oh, yeah.
06:51Yeah.
06:51And you can see some of the pieces of banana.
06:53I love that.
06:54Mm-hmm.
06:55All right.
06:55I'm going for the middle.
06:56Mm-hmm.
07:01Mm.
07:02Mm.
07:03Mm.
07:04That's a really good combination.
07:06Mm-hmm.
07:07Mm.
07:08You can taste the chocolate.
07:09Mm-hmm.
07:09You can taste the banana.
07:10It's moist.
07:11It's right on the edge of cake, but it's still decidedly a bread.
07:15Mm-hmm.
07:15But it's not too sweet.
07:16Mm-mm.
07:17This is so good.
07:18And the chopped chocolate in there.
07:19Mm-hmm.
07:20And I love the crystalline on top.
07:23Mm-hmm.
07:23Yeah.
07:23Mm-hmm.
07:24Tender, moist, not too sweet.
07:26Mm-hmm.
07:27Hit all the marks here.
07:29Ashley, this is fantastic.
07:31Oh, you're welcome.
07:32If you want to take your banana bread to the next level, mash very ripe bananas for a total
07:37of two cups.
07:38Stir Dutch processed cocoa and chopped bittersweet chocolate into the batter.
07:43And after it's baked, let the bread cool in the pan for 30 minutes.
07:46From Cook's Country, a killer recipe for double chocolate banana bread.
07:52Killer.
07:53Killer.
07:54I love it.
07:54So good.
07:56Mm.
07:57The cold brew coffee industry is valued at more than $4 billion, and that means that
08:08a lot of you like your joe on the chili side.
08:12So, can you save some money by making it at home?
08:15Let's call in Hannah, and she's here to tell us all about these cold brew systems.
08:19Yes.
08:19Cold brew is everywhere these days.
08:21It's known for being smoother and less acidic than hot coffee, which I really appreciate.
08:26To make cold brew, you steep coarsely ground coffee grounds in water for 12 to 24 hours,
08:31so it's a long time.
08:32Then you want to press, remove the grinds, and you have a concentrate left behind.
08:36You can either drink it straight if you really want rocket fuel.
08:39You can add water back.
08:40You can even heat it up, and it keeps for a week in the fridge.
08:43So it's kind of a messy process, but once you do that initial making, you can actually
08:47have it to sip on for seven days or more.
08:50And cold brew coffee is expensive, for good reason.
08:52You're using a higher ratio of grounds.
08:55I actually paid $7.75 for a cup this morning.
08:58One cup.
08:58One cup.
08:59Not one gallon.
09:00No.
09:00One cup.
09:01Okay.
09:01Yeah.
09:02Bring on the machines.
09:03Exactly.
09:03So we actually did the math, and we calculated.
09:06It costs about $2 to make a cup with our cold brew recipe at home.
09:10So if you like cold brew, investing in a machine could, could save you money.
09:15We tested 10, and I say could because some of these are a complete waste of money.
09:19So let's get into it.
09:21All right.
09:21They were priced from $20 to $80, and we found three styles.
09:25I want to walk over here first.
09:26Let's talk about electric.
09:27Right.
09:27These look fancy.
09:28They look fancy.
09:29Electric sounds fancy.
09:30You know, they're all shiny.
09:31Like I said, cold brew takes 12 to 24 hours.
09:34So some people say, no, no.
09:36Let's try to do it in five minutes with a centrifuge.
09:39We're going to spin the grounds and water very quickly to accelerate the process.
09:44What do you think?
09:45Sounds good, right?
09:45I think that everyone knows that things done really quickly are always better.
09:50No.
09:50No one said that ever.
09:52You're on to something there.
09:53Here, come right over here.
09:54I just want to show you two samples here.
09:57Okay.
09:57So one of these was made in an electric cold brew machine, and the other was made with
10:02the classic long-weight cold brew.
10:05Right.
10:05I'm guessing this is the long-weight.
10:07And this looks like you dredged the Charles.
10:10Yes.
10:10You think it looks bad now?
10:11Let me show you what's actually inside.
10:13Merky.
10:17Check that out.
10:18That'd be your last sip.
10:19Do you ever get a last sip like that?
10:20You get hit with that?
10:21Oh, yeah, absolutely.
10:22It's like a meal at the bottom of the cup.
10:24You do not want that.
10:25But look, I mean, even the color without the grounds, this one just looks so much more
10:29robust and well-developed.
10:30This one looks light and kind of weak.
10:33Yeah.
10:33Unfortunately, the electric models produced the worst of both worlds.
10:37They spun only for five minutes.
10:39So they didn't extract enough flavor, but they were able to spin out grittiness and oil.
10:43So it was weak and gritty.
10:45Jeez.
10:45Okay.
10:46No way now.
10:46Let's stop talking about these things.
10:48Right.
10:48All right.
10:49Come over here to our next style.
10:51These are basket style.
10:52Have you ever seen like an iced tea machine that looks like this?
10:55Yeah, a little infuser in there.
10:56Exactly.
10:57So you put the grounds in here.
11:00Mm-hmm.
11:01Once the time has elapsed, and again, these are slow, old school, cold brew makers.
11:06They're going to take overnight.
11:07Once the time has elapsed, you pull this out, the grounds come along with it, and then you
11:12have your brew left in the bottom there, and this container can be stored in the fridge.
11:15What we didn't like about these was there just wasn't enough room for the coffee grounds
11:19to circulate with the water.
11:20We had to get in there and stir, which was like, we practically need tweezers to do it
11:24precisely.
11:24Right.
11:25A swizzle stick.
11:26Exactly.
11:26Exactly.
11:27And even once we did that with some of these, there was dry coffee left.
11:31Oh.
11:32No.
11:32So you need more room, more circulation.
11:34More room, more circulation.
11:36Dry coffee is bad for flavor, and it's just a waste.
11:38Yeah.
11:39So these were like fine, workable, not our favorite.
11:42All right.
11:42Now let's go down to the drawdown style.
11:45This is our third style, the drawdown style.
11:48They have a bucket on top with a series of filters in it and a carafe that you drain into
11:53down below.
11:54Okay.
11:54So pretend this has been brewing overnight.
11:56There's grounds, there's water.
11:57This thing is full.
11:58Can you go ahead and try to put it on its carafe first?
12:02So I've got to get this over here without spilling any?
12:05There's a plug on the bottom, so you need to take that out and get it on there.
12:08And you'll notice this is quite tall and narrow.
12:11Yeah, that would not be good.
12:13That would just not be good at all.
12:15No.
12:15No.
12:15I mean, a tiny narrow top feels like it's going to fall over.
12:18This is heavy.
12:19It's all light, like it's plastic.
12:21Yeah.
12:21And this fell over during testing.
12:23I can see why.
12:24Yeah.
12:24It's top heavy.
12:25It's tall.
12:26It's narrow.
12:27It's awkward.
12:28It's a disaster waiting to happen.
12:29And I don't need more awkward in my life.
12:31No, you're awkward enough.
12:33I know this, too.
12:34Now, let's move down.
12:35She knows me so well.
12:37Let's talk about the toddy.
12:38So this was our winner right here.
12:40And I want you to do the same thing.
12:44Let's pretend.
12:45Let's go another game of make-believe.
12:46Pretend this is full of coffee and grounds and you're ready to drain.
12:50Compare how this one feels.
12:52I mean, look at the opening.
12:53You don't even need to try it.
12:54No, on the jar.
12:56But, I mean, this, well, this already feels like it's not going to fall apart.
12:59And the fact that it's larger, just a lot easier.
13:02Toddy is a big name in the cold brew world.
13:04This was our overall winner.
13:07It had fewer parts to keep track of.
13:08It had two filters, which is another thing we found.
13:11Two filters was really important.
13:13If the manual ones did not have two filters, the coffee was silty.
13:17Right.
13:17So our winner from Toddy, two filters, streamlined, compact design.
13:22Once your coffee's brewed, this goes right there and that gets stored in the fridge.
13:28How lovely is that?
13:29It's downright cute, isn't it?
13:30For up to a week.
13:31For up to a week.
13:32Exactly.
13:33Well, there you go.
13:34You saved my sanity, you saved my time, and you saved me some money.
13:36So thank you very much.
13:38Just invite me over for coffee.
13:39I definitely will.
13:40So if you want to pick up the winner, it's the Toddy Cold Brew System and it runs about $60.
13:52Let's talk about culinary portmanteaus.
13:55That's a word that's created from the parts of two other words.
13:59Well, you have brunch.
14:00That's pretty standard.
14:01And more recently, there's cronut.
14:03But what about the brookie?
14:05The brookie is a combination of a brownie and a cookie, and it should be the best of all worlds.
14:09At least that's what I've been promised.
14:11But here is Christy.
14:13She's going to show us how to make a chocolate brownie cookie that's going to end all brookies.
14:19Well, we had to start by thinking about our favorite brownie.
14:23Right.
14:23It blends the perfect amount of sweetness and really intense chocolate.
14:27It's rich and chewy, kind of fudgy and dense, and it has that shiny, crackly top.
14:33Okay, check.
14:34Yes.
14:34Now, imagine for me a situation where you have that shiny, crackly top that surrounds the entire brownie.
14:41Okay, got it.
14:42That's where we're going.
14:43All right.
14:43I'm on board.
14:44Okay.
14:45I'm on the train.
14:46Well, let's start with our dry ingredients.
14:48I have a cup of all-purpose flour.
14:51I'm adding a quarter cup of Dutch processed cocoa, which is three quarters of an ounce.
14:56Now, that's going to give us a really clean, bright chocolate flavor, and it also gives us that really dark color.
15:02Yes, necessary.
15:03Absolutely.
15:04Now, I'm using a mix of leaveners.
15:06I have a teaspoon of baking powder, and I'm also using a quarter teaspoon of baking soda.
15:12Which is going to help to control the spread.
15:15It's also going to help give us a little lift before the cookies settle and crackle.
15:20I'm also adding three quarters of a teaspoon of salt, which is a decent amount of salt, but we really want to lean into that bright chocolate flavor.
15:27Okay.
15:27We'll just give this a whisk.
15:30Okay.
15:31Moving on.
15:32All right.
15:33Our chocolate journey.
15:34We're going to double down on chocolate.
15:37So not just the cocoa.
15:38No.
15:38No.
15:39We're also going to add 10 ounces of bittersweet chocolate.
15:43You're going whole hog here.
15:44Totally.
15:45All right.
15:45But we're doing it in two different stages.
15:47So I have four ounces here.
15:49This is one bar, and I'm going to chop this.
15:53I do like to use a serrated knife.
15:55And we're just going to do a chop so it doesn't have to be super fine because these are going to be chunks left in the cookie.
16:03Oh, so this is the cookie part like a chocolate chip cookie.
16:06You want chocolate chunks.
16:08Right.
16:08And some of them are going to melt, and others are going to leave just a little trace.
16:13So you see, it's just a chop.
16:15Love it.
16:15We don't have to completely obliterate it.
16:19Now, I have six ounces here that I've already chopped, but this we're going to melt.
16:23Okay.
16:23Still bittersweet.
16:24Yes.
16:25We're using a mix of fats here.
16:27I have three tablespoons of vegetable oil, and I'm also adding a tablespoon of unsalted butter.
16:33And it's that mix of saturated and unsaturated fats that are going to give us that really nice, chewy texture.
16:40Gorgeous.
16:41We're going to microwave this for about three minutes at 50% power, and I'll go in halfway and stir it.
16:49Okay.
16:56So we're on our way.
16:57It's always a good idea to stir it every once in a while, because chocolate does not look like it's fully melted sometimes when it actually is.
17:04Totally.
17:10Okay.
17:11We can still see some chunks, but I know that as soon as we start stirring, we're going to be good.
17:16Okay.
17:20Like magic.
17:21Melts away.
17:23So we just want to work out any final pieces of chocolate.
17:26That looks good.
17:27That looks lovely.
17:28Well, thank you.
17:29I work really hard at melting my chocolate.
17:31Yeah, you do.
17:32Now, we want to cool this down a little bit before we eventually add our eggs.
17:36So I'm going to add two tablespoons of whole milk.
17:39Okay.
17:39And you were able to get away with that without it seizing up because you had the fat already in there.
17:44Right.
17:45Look how nice and smooth that is now.
17:47Perfect.
17:48Where's the ice cream?
17:49Let's just pour it over and be done.
17:51Okay.
17:52So this is all set.
17:53Now, the final thing we have to do is mix our eggs that I mentioned with some sugar.
17:58So I have a cup of granulated sugar in here.
18:01And that's really important for this recipe because it's the granulated sugar that's going to give us that shiny, crackly top.
18:08Okay.
18:09Not powdered.
18:10Not powdered.
18:10No, not powdered, but as opposed to brown sugar that gives really nice flavor, it's not going to help with that shiny top.
18:17Okay.
18:17So I have two large eggs.
18:19So we're going to mix this on medium-high speed for about four minutes.
18:23What we're looking for is for this mixture to get nice and thick and to develop kind of a pastel yellow color.
18:30Gorgeous.
18:30Lovely puffy.
18:37Well, thank you.
18:37That's what we're looking for.
18:40It's pretty close to ribbon stage there.
18:42It really is.
18:43It's nice and thick, super pale.
18:46And that just means that the sugar has dissolved into the eggs.
18:49And so we're going to have that nice, shiny top.
18:51All right.
18:52Gorgeous.
18:53Now we're all done with the stand mixer.
18:56Okay.
18:56Great.
18:56And I'm going to first add my chocolate mixture to the eggs and sugar.
19:03All right.
19:04The melted chocolate.
19:05The melted chocolate.
19:07So we're going to whisk this in.
19:09Make sure that we have a nice, homogenous mixture.
19:13Okay.
19:14This looks nice and smooth.
19:16We're not seeing any white streaks.
19:18I'm going to switch over to the spatula now because I need to fold the dry ingredients into the wet.
19:23Right.
19:23And we're going to add the dry mixture.
19:25This is where we want to prevent a lot of gluten from forming.
19:30Right.
19:31So the fewer strokes needed, the better.
19:34Okay.
19:34This looks good.
19:35I don't see any dry bits left.
19:38Make sure, especially around the bottom.
19:41So now we're going to fold in those chocolate bits that we left.
19:44Fantastic.
19:46So we'll fold those in.
19:48It's getting a little thick now.
19:50Okay.
19:50This looks good.
19:51And I think we have good mix of chocolate in there.
19:55Properly dispersed.
19:56To form the cookies, we're going to use either a tablespoon measuring spoon.
20:02Okay.
20:02Or you can use a number 30 scoop, which is really perfect because a leveled-off scoop will give you exactly 20 cookies.
20:11If you're using a tablespoon measure, which is fine, you want to do a heaping tablespoon.
20:15Okay.
20:16And that can just be a little more subjective.
20:18Yes.
20:18One person's heaping is another person's second cookie.
20:20It's a very forgiving batter, though.
20:23So if you need to kind of, you know.
20:25Steal.
20:26Exactly.
20:26You can do that later.
20:27Either way, though, you want to make sure that you spray your measuring spoon or the scoop with some vegetable oil spray before you start.
20:34It'll just make it a lot easier to release the cookies.
20:37Love it.
20:38So we'll batter up.
20:40Nice.
20:41I'm going to do 10 cookies per sheet.
20:45So to my ordered mind, we'll do a row of three, a row of four, and then another row of three.
20:53And then we'll do the second sheet of cookies, which will give us a total of 20.
20:58Last scoop.
21:01All right.
21:01So we have to bake these now.
21:03I have my oven set up, upper middle and lower middle racks.
21:06Okay.
21:06These are both going to go in at the same time.
21:08Oh, that's great.
21:08And the oven is heated to 300 degrees.
21:11So we're going to bake these until they get a little puffy and we see some big cracks starting to form.
21:16It's going to take about 16 minutes, but we'll go in halfway and switch and rotate the sheets.
21:22All right.
21:23Switch at eight.
21:23Yes.
21:24Okay.
21:24I'll get the door.
21:36Oh, Bridget.
21:40Oh, we got cookies.
21:43Yeah, we do.
21:45Wow.
21:46Oh, my goodness.
21:51These are perfect.
21:53So you can see that we've got puff.
21:57Yes.
21:57We have some big cracks and you can see it looks a little bit raw in the cracks.
22:02Right.
22:02It's okay.
22:03It's fine.
22:03These are going to continue to firm up as they cool.
22:06And we have to let them cool on the sheet pans for 30 minutes anyway.
22:10Are you ready?
22:11I'm so ready and I'm seeing a spatula.
22:13So I know it's been 30 minutes.
22:15It has been 30 minutes.
22:16You want to use a nice thin spatula.
22:20I see crackly, shiny top.
22:25There we go.
22:26So lonely.
22:28Oh, thank you.
22:29Did you really think I was only going to give you one?
22:32Look at that.
22:33Oh, my goodness.
22:34Beautiful.
22:35And do you see the little bits of chocolate in there?
22:38I do.
22:39Still just glistening.
22:40Oh, yeah.
22:41Definitely can see some there.
22:45Mmm.
22:46I got a hit of a chocolate pocket.
22:49Mm-hmm.
22:49Chocolate pocket, trademarked right now by me.
22:54Mmm.
22:55That's big flavor.
22:57And the outside, it's got the little crispness, but it also has some chew.
23:02Mm-hmm.
23:02But they're melting as soon as I can put them in my mouth.
23:06Just starting to melt.
23:07And they're so super tender.
23:09Mm-hmm.
23:09And Christy, thank you so much for bringing us this fantastic baked cookie brownie.
23:17And if you want to bake these, and you know you do, use both baking powder and baking soda for a crackling top.
23:24Add a combination of vegetable oil and butter for moist brownie-like texture.
23:28And use Dutch processed cocoa and melted bittersweet chocolate in the batter, then stir in chocolate chunks before baking.
23:34So from Cook's Country, the dessert that proves you can have it all chocolate brownie cookies.
23:40You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes.
23:46And those are all on our website, cookscountry.com slash TV.
23:50Now, the only way I could see making these better is like ice cream between two of them.
23:56Oh!
23:57Ooh!
24:03Oh!
24:04Oh!
24:04Oh!
24:05Oh!
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