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America's Test Kitchen Season 26 Episode 5
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FunTranscript
00:00I'm sorry, I'm sorry.
00:30Today on America's Test Kitchen, Keith makes Bridget a German farmer's breakfast.
00:43Adam reviews cookie sheets, and Bridget makes Julia a Dutch apple tart.
00:50It's all coming up right here on America's Test Kitchen.
01:00Bratkatafen is the German word for fried potatoes.
01:07Now, those sound good on their own, but when you turn it into a recipe, it's got bacon, it's got onions, all the good things.
01:14Now, Keith is here. He's going to show us how to make it, but also turn it into something a lot more special.
01:19Yeah, we have a two-recipe-for-one special today.
01:22So, we're going to start with a side dish that you talked about, the potato side dish, which is fried in a little bit of bacon.
01:27Wonderful dish.
01:28But we're also going to make bauernfrustrück, which is a farmer's breakfast that takes those potatoes and adds eggs to make this wonderful, filling, hearty breakfast.
01:38Right up my alley there.
01:39So, we're going to start with our bacon.
01:41I have three slices of bacon here.
01:43I prefer to use hickory bacon because the flavor is closer to what you would see in Germany, which is a beechwood smoked bacon.
01:50Okay.
01:50So, I'm just going to cut this into small pieces.
01:52So, transfer it over to a 12-inch nonstick skillet, and I'm going to turn this on to medium-high heat.
02:02And we're going to let that bacon start to render and start to brown.
02:05While that's happening, I want you to keep an eye on that for me.
02:08Okay, no problem.
02:08We can focus on our potatoes.
02:10I have two pounds of Yukon Gold potatoes.
02:12A medium-starch potato is nice here because the slices will hold their shape while they cook.
02:18Okay.
02:18Also has a great flavor, too.
02:19Definitely.
02:20So, I'm just going to cut these into half-inch slices.
02:24Now, we're also going to add half an onion here.
02:29Okay, I think that's looking pretty good.
02:31You can start to see some of that fat render out getting a little color on that bacon.
02:36Oh, yeah.
02:37So, when the bacon starts popping, it's time to add the onion.
02:40So, I'm just going to stir this into the bacon, and we're going to let those cook for another three to five minutes.
02:46It's been three minutes, and you can see that the onions have softened and started to pick up some color.
02:52Bacon has rendered.
02:53Smells so good in here.
02:54Smells great.
02:54Now, I'm going to take this out of the pan before we cook our potatoes.
02:57If I try to cook the potatoes with those aromatics in there, they'll start to burn.
03:02So, I'm going to return this.
03:04I'm going to turn that down to medium heat.
03:06I'm going to add two tablespoons of unsalted butter.
03:08Okay, I think that's good.
03:11So, I'll add our two pounds of peeled potatoes.
03:14I'm going to sprinkle that with a half teaspoon of table salt.
03:19Now, I'm just going to stir that.
03:21Okay, so, I'm going to leave that on medium heat.
03:24I'm going to put a lid on it.
03:25I'm going to go for nine minutes shaking this pan gently.
03:29It's been nine minutes, and this is just a status check about halfway through.
03:33What I'm looking for is this nice bubbling that I'm seeing around the potatoes.
03:37If the heat's too high, we won't see that bubbling, and you will evaporate all the moisture off the potatoes, so they won't cook evenly.
03:44So, this looks actually perfect.
03:45So, I'm going to put the lid back on, and then we're going to go for another six to nine minutes and make sure that the potatoes are completely tender at that point.
03:53Okay.
03:53It's been another six minutes.
03:56Now, I want to check these potatoes.
03:59I'm just going to take a paring knife and insert it in the center, and I have no resistance.
04:04So, that means those potatoes are perfect.
04:07So, I'm going to leave the lid off at this point, and we want to evaporate that liquid off, and we want to continue to brown these potatoes.
04:14Now, I'm going to go in there every two to three minutes, stirring those over because it's going to brown on the bottom, flip it over, get brown on the second side.
04:21That will take about ten minutes for that to happen.
04:24I've been cooking these potatoes for ten minutes, stirring them occasionally, and you can see all this wonderful browning that we've gotten.
04:30I'm going to add our onion and bacon back to the pan.
04:36I'm just going to stir this in.
04:40Okay.
04:40So, this is our side dish.
04:42This is bra catafelain.
04:43We would stop here, and you could serve it with a roast, fish, really anything.
04:48But, we're going to go one step further.
04:51So, I'm just going to let that heat go down a little bit.
04:54And now, I have six eggs.
04:56So, we're going to make our Baumwurstruck, which is a German farmer's breakfast.
05:01Okay.
05:01Party rich.
05:02So, I'm just going to add a quarter teaspoon of salt, quarter teaspoon of pepper.
05:10Before we add the eggs, I'm going to add another tablespoon of butter.
05:14The pan is fairly dry at this point, so the butter will kind of help cook those eggs.
05:18Yeah, I was getting worried.
05:18Swirl that around.
05:19Well, you said farmer's breakfast.
05:21So, in theory, we've been out in the fields for two hours.
05:24For two.
05:25And we deserve this at this point.
05:27Okay.
05:27So, I'm just going to pour the eggs over the potatoes.
05:31Oh, my.
05:35Like that.
05:35Incredible.
05:36We're going to let the eggs cook for 45 seconds.
05:39Just allow them to set a little bit.
05:40Okay.
05:41Okay.
05:41So, I'm just going to start to lift the egg from the edges like this.
05:47What I'm doing is I'm letting that egg run from the top into that little void that I create.
05:54Now, you can see that I can't get all of that runny egg onto the edges underneath to cook it.
06:00So, we're going to use our lid again.
06:02I'm going to put this on here.
06:04The steam's going to come up and cook the eggs that are on top of the potatoes that we can't get underneath.
06:09Been a couple minutes, and we're just going to check on this.
06:13That looks perfect, right?
06:14There's no runny egg on the top here.
06:16So, we're just going to slide this onto a platter, spatula around, but that non-stick pan is doing a really good job.
06:24Boy, does it ever.
06:25Oh, man.
06:27Beautiful.
06:28I might fight you for it.
06:30One last thing.
06:32A little parsley.
06:34Ready?
06:35Yes.
06:36Okay.
06:36This is beautiful.
06:37It is beautiful, isn't it?
06:38I'll give you a hearty wedge.
06:42This is stunning.
06:44It's simple.
06:46But it's absolutely gorgeous.
06:48Look at this perfect slice that Keith gave me.
06:50That is as good as it gets.
06:53Oh, my goodness.
06:54Between the bacon fat and the little bits of bacon in there, you're getting potato, bacon, butter.
06:59Yeah, and it's really about the potato flavor, not necessarily all the bacon and the onion.
07:04That's true.
07:05The potatoes are perfectly cooked, creamy.
07:07Really creamy.
07:08And the egg.
07:09It's almost like it's a little beautiful pie shell underneath all of this filling.
07:14One word.
07:15That is wunderbar.
07:17How about that?
07:17Nice.
07:18This is spectacular.
07:19I'm going to make it whether or not I'm working out on the farm.
07:22Now, if you want to make this fantastic breakfast, it starts by cooking bacon and onion until golden brown.
07:29Saute and steam the potatoes with butter in the rendered bacon fat.
07:32And after browning the potatoes, pour over eggs and cook it until just set.
07:37So, from America's test kitchen, a hearty breakfast fit for champions, it's bon for stuck.
07:45Now, I'm thinking sausages in here too, maybe.
07:49Ooh.
07:50Sausage and bacon.
07:51Sausage and bacon.
07:52Yeah.
07:57This is not a cookie sheet.
07:59It's a baking sheet, a rimmed baking sheet, in fact, and it's great for other things.
08:03But if you're baking cookies, you might need a tool just for that job.
08:07Enter the cookie sheet and add them.
08:09Let's talk about some of the differences here, Bridget.
08:12You can see that this thing has about a one-inch rim around all four sides.
08:16An actual cookie sheet, which is what we're testing here, we have 12 in the lineup.
08:21The price range was $17 to $100.
08:24The actual cookie sheet is like this.
08:27It doesn't have a full rim around the whole thing.
08:30Right.
08:31There are a couple of disadvantages to having all four sides here.
08:35It can't expand and contract in the oven heat, so sometimes it'll warp.
08:40Also, with these tall sides, it's a little harder to get in there with spatulas and really get the cookies on and off.
08:45So, we're getting rid of this thing.
08:47Okay.
08:47That's gone.
08:48A dedicated cookie sheet, or the ones we like, have fewer sides.
08:53Much easier access with a spatula or take it away, Bridget, with that piece of parchment.
08:58Nice.
08:59Love doing this.
09:00So, you've got this nice flat edge.
09:02Just grab the parchment.
09:03All the cookies come off at once.
09:05The whole thing slides off.
09:07Not doing that with a rim around there.
09:09No.
09:09No.
09:09Not easily.
09:09Definitely not.
09:11So, we like them when they have just two raised edges like that one does and this one.
09:15They're the same one.
09:16This has about 200 square inches of baking space.
09:20This one, for instance, has about 165 inches of baking space, so it felt a little cramped.
09:27It's also got just one barely raised edge.
09:30It was kind of hard to grab with an oven mitt on.
09:33One of our testers went in and tried to grab it to rotate it mid-bake and smooshed a cookie.
09:37That is unacceptable.
09:38Not good.
09:39So, this lineup covers a range of materials.
09:42There's steel, there's aluminum, there's aluminized steel.
09:45Some of them are nonstick coated.
09:47This one is clad.
09:49And we know what that means.
09:51That's an aluminum core with stainless steel on the outside.
09:54That's gorgeous, but it's heavy.
09:56It's $100 and it weighs four pounds for a cookie sheet.
09:59$100.
10:00I'm putting it back gingerly.
10:02Very careful.
10:03Not ideal.
10:05This is another one that testers didn't actually love.
10:07This one is insulated.
10:09This one was not ideal because it baked cookies unevenly.
10:12The air in between the two layers of metal would heat up unevenly.
10:15There were cool spots.
10:16There were hot spots.
10:17So, the cookies didn't bake evenly and it even warped a little bit in the oven.
10:21Not good.
10:21Not good.
10:23In the end, what testers really loved was this one here.
10:26This is the Volrath, wherever, aluminum cookie sheet.
10:30It's uncoated.
10:31It's $33.
10:32And it's got everything that we love.
10:34It's got 203 square inches of baking space.
10:37It's got two raised edges so you can turn it easily in the oven, but you can also get on there easily with a spatula.
10:43Or you can slide the whole sheet of cookies off and on.
10:46Perfect.
10:47This is pretty much the ideal cookie sheet and you want to have one of these in your bakeware collection.
10:53Well, there you go.
10:53And if you want to find out more about our product testing here, you can go to our website.
10:58In the meantime, I'm going to have a cookie.
11:01Can I have one too?
11:02Oh, Bridget.
11:03Cheers.
11:04Cheers.
11:09If you look up recipes for Dutch apple pie, you'll find a variety of interpretations.
11:14Some use pie plates, others tall cake pans, some add a little cream to the filling, others put crumb topping on top.
11:22But today, Bridget's going to show us a more traditional recipe for Dutch apple pie.
11:26That's right.
11:27Yeah, we went straight to the Dutch and we said, what do you think apple tart is?
11:30They said, this is apple tart.
11:32Big, it's tall, it's beautiful.
11:34But great news for the home cook, it's one of the easiest apple pies you will ever make.
11:39So let's start off with the apples.
11:40Okay.
11:40So I've got four pounds, these are golden delicious apples, obviously, peeled them, cored them, and then cut them into quarter inch slices.
11:48Now we don't want them to turn into applesauce, so we're going to pre-cook them before we bake them.
11:53And now, just a little bit of dark brown sugar, this is a quarter cup.
11:56And I'm just going to toss this together, and that's the pie.
12:01I told you it was super easy.
12:02Well, it isn't a Dutch oven.
12:04Or as they call it, oven.
12:07All right, so I'm going to turn this to medium-high heat, put a lid on it.
12:12And we're going to let this go from 8 to 14 minutes.
12:15Really, anywhere in there, what I'm looking for is the apples to start to soften.
12:19About half of them should start to look a little translucent.
12:22Okay.
12:22All right.
12:23All right, let's check this.
12:24It's been about 10 minutes.
12:26All right.
12:27Now this, this is what I'm looking for.
12:29So you can see it's a little bit translucent.
12:31Yep.
12:32And now, I'm going to dump them out onto this rimmed baking sheet.
12:35We want them to stop cooking.
12:38All right, spread this out.
12:40So I've got here flour.
12:41This is 2 1⁄2 cups, 12 1⁄2 ounces of all-purpose flour.
12:45I've got 5 1⁄4 ounces or a 3 1⁄4 cup packed dark brown sugar.
12:50Dark brown.
12:51Dark brown.
12:51A little bit of an odd ingredient for a pie crust.
12:54This is baking powder.
12:55A tablespoon of it.
12:57And a half a teaspoon of just regular table salt.
13:01Now, I've got a spatula here, but what's really good is to get in here with your hands,
13:05break up those clumps of brown sugar.
13:08All right.
13:08So now, let's talk liquid ingredients.
13:11One egg, crack it, whisk it.
13:16All right.
13:17Now, I do want to reserve a little bit of this beaten egg, about a tablespoon, for later on.
13:22We're going to use it in our egg wash for the top of the pie.
13:25Yeah.
13:26All right.
13:27So the egg goes right in.
13:28Now, I've got some butter here, just a little bit.
13:31Just a little bit.
13:32It's 14 tablespoons of unsalted butter, melted and still hot.
13:37That's going to make it easy to incorporate in our dish.
13:40And just to help things along, I've got a tablespoon of water just to bring the dough to the texture that I'm looking for.
13:46All right.
13:46Just want to bring this together.
13:47All right.
13:49I'm going to dump this onto my surface here.
13:52Now, I get to have some fun.
13:54Just going to knead this until it comes together.
13:56Then all the ingredients look to be well mixed.
13:58So now, I just want to roll this out to about a nine-inch log.
14:02All right.
14:03And I'm doing this because it's going to make it easier for me to portion this out into three equal portions.
14:09Ah-ha.
14:10All right.
14:11I'm going to put you to work.
14:12You're going to help me make this crust.
14:14So this is a non-stick springform pan.
14:17It's nine inches.
14:18If you're using a regular one that's not non-stick, you'll need to grease it with a little bit of vegetable oil spray.
14:23Okay.
14:24But we're going to take one-third of this.
14:26So we just crumble this into the bottom.
14:28I just need you to press this just into the bottom at this point.
14:31Okay. No sides.
14:31No sides.
14:32Thank you for giving me something to keep busy with.
14:34Of course.
14:35You know me.
14:36Next up, I'm going to take another blob, one-third of the dough.
14:42And I'm going to pad it out to about an 8-by-4-inch rectangle.
14:46Now I'm going to put another piece of parchment on here just so it's making contact there.
14:51How's that?
14:51That looks great.
14:52Almost done.
14:53Just set that aside for a minute.
14:54Okay.
14:55So again, put a little piece of parchment on top.
14:57Get it to stick.
14:59And now I'm going to roll this out to a 10-by-12-inch rectangle.
15:04All right.
15:04I'm going to leave this between the sheets of parchment.
15:06Mm-hmm.
15:07And I'll put it on a rimmed baking sheet.
15:09This is going to go in the fridge in just a moment.
15:11All right.
15:12So this last piece of dough, what are we going to do with it?
15:15I know.
15:15Let's build the side crust.
15:17So same thing.
15:19Just crumble around the edges and then start padding up the sides of the pan.
15:23That dough really is easy to work with.
15:25Yes.
15:26All right.
15:26So I need the butter to chill, get a little bit firm.
15:29Apples still have to cool down, so I'm going to go put these in the fridge.
15:32Okay.
15:34Well, as Bridget mentioned earlier, it's important to par-cook the apples so that they hold together in the tart.
15:40Here's why.
15:42If you bake raw apples for an hour and 15 minutes, which is the total baking time of the tart,
15:48the pectin in the apples, which holds the cell walls together, separates from each other, turning the apples mushy.
15:54The key to avoiding mushy apples is to par-cook them to around 140 degrees for at least 10 minutes.
16:00At this specific temperature, an enzyme called pectin methylesterase, or PME, becomes more active in the fruit.
16:08The enzyme modifies the pectin that holds the apple cells together.
16:12Once the pectin is modified, calcium ions, already present in the fruit, can easily link the chains of pectin together.
16:19These pre-cooked apples now have a sturdy pectin mesh that allows the apples to stay firm and intact throughout the rest of baking.
16:27So the trick to preserving the texture of the apples is to par-cook them before baking the pie.
16:33Next step, we've got to make our apples taste spiced.
16:37Okay.
16:38Yeah, and these apples, I let them fully cool.
16:40That did take about 30 minutes.
16:42All right, so let's get the apples out of here into our bowl.
16:46And I just, if there are any juices, I'm going to leave them behind.
16:49All right, so let's add the rest of our filling to the apples.
16:53Now, a little bit of a polarizing ingredient.
16:55Do you have to?
16:56You don't.
16:57I like it.
16:59This is golden raisins.
17:00Okay.
17:01So a half cup.
17:02You don't have to add it, but it really is very traditional with the Dutch apple pie.
17:08All right, a little bit of thickener here.
17:10This is a tablespoon of cornstarch.
17:12A little bit of lemon juice.
17:14This is a tablespoon.
17:16And a pinch of salt, just regular table salt.
17:19All right, let's talk about the spice blend here.
17:22Let me tell you what we have here.
17:23Now, our backbone is cinnamon.
17:25You know, it's one of my favorite spices.
17:27A teaspoon of cinnamon.
17:28So this is a quarter teaspoon of ground ginger.
17:33Quarter teaspoon of cardamom.
17:36Oh, I love cardamom.
17:38Yeah.
17:38We have a quarter teaspoon of ground coriander.
17:41And I've got an eighth of a teaspoon of nutmeg.
17:45Really pays to freshly grate it yourself rather than get the stuff out of the jar.
17:49They taste completely different.
17:51They do.
17:51So this is just a little bit.
17:53And I'm going to start tossing this, but I'm almost ready for the pie dough.
17:58So if you wouldn't mind going to the fridge and getting out both the tray and the pie plate.
18:02Okay.
18:03Would you like it here?
18:04Just here is perfect.
18:05All right.
18:06Thanks, Julia.
18:07All right.
18:07So that looks great.
18:09So this is going to go right into the base here.
18:13So I'm just going to arrange these.
18:15We want them to be compacted in there.
18:18So now, let's talk about the top of this pie.
18:21You mentioned crumb toppings.
18:23You can find some of those, but the most traditional is lattice.
18:26Oh.
18:27Now, I said that this pie was one of the easiest pies that we've ever made, this apple tart.
18:32This is why.
18:32You think lattice and fear is struck into your heart.
18:36A little bit.
18:36A little bit.
18:36This is super easy.
18:37So let me just take this out of the sheet pan, and I'm going to peel off this top layer.
18:44And we're going to put this back in this rim baking sheet because we're going to use this
18:47to put the pie on before we put it in the oven.
18:50All right.
18:50Now, we need to cut some lattice strips.
18:53So I need eight in total, and we're going to space these about one and a quarter inch apart.
18:58All right, so I'm going to use a pizza cutter.
19:02You could use a knife for this.
19:04And I'm going to start using those little marks to make my little lattice.
19:09Now, again, it's fine if the edges are not perfect.
19:12This is one of the most forgiving doughs I've ever worked with.
19:17All right, so we're going to use an offset spatula.
19:21And I'm just going to loosen this first one.
19:28There we go.
19:30I'm going to place it right on the top of my pie, spacing them evenly apart.
19:36I'm going to give a little bit of space between them.
19:39Adjust at this point.
19:40All right, so now we're going to put the remaining four at a 45-degree angle.
19:46And I'm not going to be picking up any strips to braid it and to make a basket weave at all.
19:54All right.
19:55So now I just want to go in there and kind of press the strips down onto the pie.
20:00So now I'm going to take a paring knife, and I just want to start going around and just removing the excess dough.
20:08And it's going to take a little bit of a bowl.
20:12Woo-wee.
20:14I'm about ready to bake, Julia.
20:17One last step.
20:18This was that one tablespoon of the reserved egg.
20:21Just beat an egg.
20:23All right.
20:23Time to bake this.
20:24This is going to go into a 375-degree oven.
20:27We're going to bake this in two stages.
20:29But for this first stage, I'm going to leave it in there for 45 minutes.
20:32Oh!
20:34Bridget, that is gorgeous!
20:36That was just 45 minutes.
20:38It's not done cooking, though.
20:40Now, it's colored quite a bit,
20:42so we don't want it to color too much more.
20:44So I'm going to tint it loosely with foil.
20:48All right, it doesn't have to be too tight.
20:50Just protecting it.
20:52But we're going to leave this for another 30 minutes
20:54until a skewer inserted comes out nice and clean.
20:56Okay.
20:58Still there!
21:00That was another 30 minutes,
21:02so I'm going to take this out.
21:04And if you wouldn't mind getting the oven door for me.
21:08You bet.
21:10All right.
21:12I can't wait for the reveal.
21:14Let's hope it's still there.
21:16Et voila!
21:18Goodness, Bridget.
21:20Now, the test to see if it is actually done,
21:22I'm going to take a skewer.
21:24All right, it's good to go around a few places
21:26just to make sure it's all baked evenly.
21:28And that looks great.
21:29So, one thing I want to do
21:31before I release the side here,
21:33I just want to take a paring knife
21:35and go around just the top
21:37where the lattice and the side met.
21:39I'm going to release that nice and gently.
21:43And...
21:44Look at that!
21:45Come on!
21:46That is statuesque!
21:47My goodness!
21:49She's a looker.
21:50She is a looker.
21:51Yeah.
21:52All right.
21:53Now, obviously, we can't cut right into it.
21:55We've got to let it rest for at least four hours.
21:58Cool down so it's going to be nice and sliceable
22:00and ready for you.
22:02Completely cooled.
22:04That was four hours.
22:05You can see that the dough really kind of heals itself.
22:08Doesn't matter if it has little imperfections.
22:10All right.
22:11So, I'm going to use a sharp knife.
22:13And you want to just gently saw this because it is kind of crumbly.
22:18I love how tall it is.
22:19Oh, yeah.
22:20Oh!
22:21Goodness!
22:22That's gorgeous.
22:23That's gorgeous.
22:24Isn't that?
22:25It's a sexy pie right there.
22:27All right.
22:28There you go.
22:30Bridget.
22:31Now, in Holland, the Dutch like to serve this with whipped cream, although you could
22:35use ice cream.
22:36But with whipped cream, it's called met slagrum.
22:39Oh, I like it.
22:40Yeah.
22:41And we've got our recipe for our easy whipped cream on our website.
22:44I've got to get in there.
22:46You know, another beautiful thing about this dough is, because it's not that super flaky
22:50American pie dough, which I love for certain things, but it just kind of breaks apart so
22:55easily.
22:56Mmm.
22:57The flavor of the apples.
22:59Mmm.
23:00You can really taste the apples.
23:02And the spices, they're there, but they're nuanced.
23:05They really are just background notes, and it's not just cinnamon or maybe a little
23:09nutmeg.
23:10It's the coriander and the cardamom.
23:12Right.
23:13They all, it's like an orchestra of flavors in the background.
23:16And you get that little bit of ginger without it turning into gingerbread.
23:19Bridgette, this is incredible.
23:21Thank you for showing me how to make it.
23:22You bet.
23:23You want to make this magnificent apple tart.
23:27Start by par cooking four pounds of golden delicious apples.
23:31Make a press in pie crust and top with lattice.
23:34Then bake for an hour and a quarter, covering with foil for the final 30 minutes.
23:38From America's desk kitchen, a magnificent recipe for apple tart.
23:43You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews
23:48and select episodes at our website, americastestkitchen.com slash tv.
23:54I can't wait to make this for my family.
23:56They are going to flip.
23:57Now, we're going to flip.
23:59Okay.
24:00Now, let's flip.
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