Vogue Fashion Week by Vogue - Dailymotion

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From final fittings backstage to the fashionable front row, see the runway shows like never before.

Transcript

00:00It's September 10th and we're just hours away from the start of the Spring 2026 shows.

00:05To be technical about it, we've been reviewing collections since Monday.

00:09This is anything but an ordinary season. A month from now we'll have witnessed not one,

00:14not two, but 15 runway debuts. Who are these designers? How will they reshape fashion?

00:20And why should you care? My name is Nicole Phelps.

00:23I'm the Global Director of Vogue Runway and this is The Big Reshuffle.

00:30Straight into our big story, I'm joined by my colleague Jose Criales-Ansueda.

00:39Welcome Jose. Hi. We're here to break down what's coming in the season ahead.

00:44The first thing we're going to do is discuss the key players.

00:48Mathieu Blasier has gone from Bottega Veneta to Chanel.

00:52Jonathan Anderson is now at Dior and Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez have replaced him at Lueve.

00:59They left the label they found at Prenza Schooler to do so and Diatima's Rachel Scott has just been named as their replacement.

01:06Demna walked away from Balenciaga and is now at Gucci following a short stint by Sabato Di Sarno there.

01:13Pierpaolo Piccioli is now at Balenciaga. A year ago he was replaced at Valentino by Alessandro Michele.

01:20Simone Bellatti did four great seasons at Bali and is now at Jill Sander.

01:25And Glenn Martins of Y Project and Diesel is the new guy at Maison Margiela.

01:32Phew!

01:32And it's not all of them yet.

01:34No, there's more.

01:35The really big question is why is all of this happening at once?

01:39I mean, Nicole, the grass is always greener. That's really what it is.

01:44But there are also two really important economic factors.

01:47In 2024, there was a huge luxury slowdown, which means that luxury fashion really start to reassess

01:52its place in everyone's lives, right?

01:55So sort of try to understand how to get people to shop luxury again.

01:58And then on the other side, there is sort of this sense of corporate ambition.

02:02Executives start to rethink what fashion can do or what they can sell.

02:06And then that's where we get designers start moving around.

02:10But what is really interesting is that it is almost from the same gene pool.

02:13You see them go from conglomerate to conglomerate, from big brand to big brand.

02:16We're asking very successful, very important creatives to have lightning strike twice.

02:21It is a really hard thing to do.

02:23Sometimes it happens.

02:25I always like to bring up Phoebe Philo, who made magic at Chloe,

02:29went to Celine and came back two years ago with Phoebe Philo.

02:33And so she is a three times a charm.

02:36Right.

02:37But it's a pretty rare.

02:38That also depends not just on them.

02:40It depends on the culture.

02:41It depends on the zeitgeist, right?

02:43Like when Alessandro Michele changed the way we dressed at Gucci,

02:46he sort of like ignited this wave of gender fluid fashion with like

02:50pussy ball blouses for men and all of this, right?

02:52But we were ready for that back in 2016.

02:54At this point, we've been having that conversation for 10 years.

02:56So how do you do that again is to me what's interesting.

02:59So we can't forget the big announcement that happened.

03:02Your friend Rachel Scott, who founded Diotima several years ago,

03:06has landed the Parenza Schooler job.

03:09She has.

03:10Rachel is a Jamaican designer and she has really conquered a very specific

03:15subset of New York people who love fashion, buy fashion, wear fashion every day.

03:21But the reason why I think that is a fascinating person to install at Parenza is that in so many ways,

03:27Lazar Hernandez and Jack McCullough, when they started Parenza Schooler, did a similar thing,

03:31right?

03:32They all of a sudden were dressing kind of New York's it fashionistas.

03:36Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, Lauren Santo Domingo.

03:39I'm also fascinated to see what Parenza looks like when it's designed by a woman,

03:44considering so many women love Parenza.

03:47Yeah.

03:47And I have to say that Rachel is a very nice addition to this story because we were working on

03:5315 debuts, all of them being men.

03:58But for one, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Rachel Scott makes two.

04:03Makes two.

04:04And she's just an exciting talent, but she also breaks the mold.

04:07And we need a little more of that.

04:14These shows are all happening this women's ready to wear season.

04:17But actually, we've already seen some debuts from big brands like Celine,

04:21Christian Dior and Maison Margiela during menswear and couture.

04:25Joining us now is Becca Gavisciani, the founder of style.com who attended these shows.

04:30Hi, Becca.

04:31Thank you for joining us today.

04:33Thank you for having me.

04:35You saw Jonathan Anderson do menswear at Christian Dior.

04:39Michael Ryder do Celine and Glenn Martens of Y Project and Diesel fame do Maison Margiela.

04:47So what was it like to be there?

04:50Before I say anything about the collection is that I want to note that I'm known as Jonathan Anderson's fanboy.

04:59I honestly, I swear, I went to the show location one hour before.

05:04One hour before.

05:05And I was sitting in front of cafe across the street just to be sure that I'm on time.

05:10And I'm one of the first to go inside the building and to see the location and to see the venue,

05:15because I had no idea what he would prepare.

05:17He's the one who can create and mix the concepts and make a blend that no one else does for me.

05:25That's my opinion.

05:26When you go to the concept on even of the first look,

05:29seeing that bar jacket made for men paired with the cargo shorts that have a same pleat that has

05:37Jonathan's most favorite Dior dress.

05:39When you see this concept mixed so perfectly, I mean, I fall in love with this even more.

05:44Then Celine.

05:46If I was Mike Ryder, I would do the same collection.

05:49Honestly, every single piece we were joking, saying like,

05:52this is something that if Hedy and Phoebe had a child and that was it in the best possible way.

05:58And Glenn, to decode the collection, we saw Martin, we saw John, we saw Glenn,

06:03and we saw even leftovers of something like Matthew Blassie.

06:07I mean, we saw the masks.

06:08He was kind of touching all the development of the Margiela past few years.

06:12Could you call a winner from those three, three debuts you saw?

06:16Who do you think did the best?

06:18Oh my God, that's, these are different collections.

06:20So everyone won its own segment.

06:22I think winners, we can talk end of October,

06:25when there is an actual battle of women's wear.

06:28Who else are you looking forward to seeing in September and October?

06:32Chanel stands as number one for me, but it's also the last one.

06:35So the anticipation and we will have until the last moment, we have to wait.

06:38Then obviously comes Demna at Gucci.

06:41He was saying that he had also this vision of glamour.

06:44He would probably one day would implement in one of the, in some brand.

06:50And I think he has a perfect chance doing it at Gucci.

06:54Then comes Pierre Paolo, who is going in a way in a traditional couture house,

06:58maybe Balenciaga, which is Balenciaga.

07:02But the way that Demna has created the visual concept of it,

07:05that is so different from what Pierre Paolo has been doing during past 20 years of his career.

07:12That is very exciting.

07:14Just to imagine how Pierre Paolo's pieces and his designs gonna fit,

07:19even in the stores of Balenciaga that was designed for the Demna's aesthetic and the vision.

07:23So at the end of the season, I can say more who did it in their own way better, in my opinion.

07:33I'll see you at Ralph Lauren.

07:35Thank you, Becca.

07:36Yes. Thank you so much, Nicole.

07:37See you soon.

07:38Ciao.

07:38Now I'm joined by Laya Garcia-Furtado, my colleague.

07:48Laya, I know you have lots of opinions about the way these designers are gonna impact how we dress.

07:55Maybe nobody more than Michael Ryder at Celine, which we really liked.

08:00Yeah, the Celine debut by Michael Ryder was definitely one of the most exciting,

08:04mostly because he opened the show with skinny jeans, which we do not love.

08:09But I think if there's anyone in the world that can make fashion sort of reconsider their stance on skinny jeans,

08:15it's probably Michael Ryder.

08:17We're both wearing very wide cut jeans and pants today.

08:21But also his super preppy silhouette, a lot of preppy details in his collection and primary colors,

08:26which Jonathan Anderson at Dior also had.

08:29He also did a skinny jeans.

08:30So I don't know, the skinny jeans might actually be coming back.

08:34Well, Michael Ryder is an American guy, and he was just at Polo Ralph Lauren.

08:39So the preppy element makes sense.

08:42It checks out.

08:43Why do you think Jonathan is feeling preppy at Dior?

08:46I don't know.

08:47I thought it was really interesting that before the show started, he posted these

08:51inspiration images on Instagram, and it was a portrait of Basquiat and a portrait of Lee

08:55Radziwill, photographed by Andy Warhol.

08:58So it was a very American, New York, you know, 70s, which does not read preppy.

09:04But I think because he's trying to modernize Dior and Couture, and it's all so elevated,

09:10the opposite of that seems to be American prep.

09:12It could be that it's just a good moment for Americans in Paris.

09:16Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez of Prenza Schooler are now at Lueve.

09:20Becca was on the show.

09:21He said that Mathieu Blasie's Chanel debut is what he's looking forward to most.

09:26And I think that's a universal feeling.

09:28What do you think he's going to do there?

09:30Do you think he's going to tackle the little tweed suit?

09:33Like, I think the thing that we love about Mathieu is that he has a really irreverent

09:37approach to fashion.

09:38Like, you know, when he did his first collection of Bottega Veneta, the first look was a tanked

09:43up in a pair of jeans.

09:44And we were watching at home being like, okay, tanked up in a pair of jeans.

09:48That means it's a clean slate, except they were actually made of leather.

09:51So I love that he made his first statement with a trickster spirit.

09:55And it's also what Karl Lagerfeld used to do.

09:57I think, you know, the Chanel supermarket and making a suit out of denim.

10:01Karl always saw that he had to sort of break and do unexpected things.

10:05And I think Mathieu is going to bring that same spirit.

10:09And I think he's definitely going to take on the tweed suit and the flat and the quilted

10:13bag and just make us want all of them immediately.

10:17And what about Demna at Gucci?

10:19The thing that he has on his side is the fact that he has a bit of a palette cleanser,

10:23because there were three seasons that Sabato de Sarno worked on.

10:27But I have a feeling that he's going to go a little bit softer, maybe not such a severe silhouette.

10:32Dakota Johnson just stepped out on the red carpet a few weeks ago wearing a silver strapless A-line dress.

10:39And I mean, if you look at Demna's past collections, he loves the silver moment.

10:42He loves something that feels textural and at odds, you know, unnatural in a way.

10:48So when I saw that dress, I was like, ooh.

10:55All right.

10:56It's speed round time.

10:58Hot takes.

10:59Jose is back with us.

11:00Jose.

11:01What's up?

11:01What's your prediction?

11:02My prediction slash hot take is that the debuts that we're expecting to be the best

11:09will be the ones we like the least.

11:11Really, the underdogs are going to surprise us and please us the most.

11:15I love an underdog story.

11:16What about you, Leah?

11:17I think that tracks.

11:18My hot take is that fashion is going to split into two.

11:21Quiet luxury, donezo.

11:23And now we're going to see luxury, luxury.

11:26And then on the other hand, it's going to be a split where people are going to be prioritizing

11:32things that are made by hand and like a kind of hippie,

11:36like late 90s, early 2000s layering of a sarong over pants.

11:41Like Julian Klausner did a Dries front note.

11:43And that's my hot take.

11:44All right.

11:45Well, what side, what camp are you going to fall in?

11:48I'm definitely going to be in the hippie camp pants and a scarf every day,

11:52which I've already been doing.

11:52Which you've been doing, yeah.

11:53So, yeah.

11:55Jose?

11:55Well, if I could, I would be on the really luxury side.

12:00But since I don't have that budget, I'll be wearing the sarongs too.

12:03But you do love a strong shoulder.

12:05We do.

12:05I do love a sharp shoulder.

12:06What about you, Nicole?

12:07I don't quite have a hot take as a concern.

12:11It's a long season.

12:12And I think that the guys at the end of the schedule will have the hardest job.

12:19Right.

12:19Unless it's amazing.

12:21It's really hard to please you.

12:22Which I very well, maybe.

12:24I mean, Mathieu is closing and it's going to be amazing.

12:27Chanel Vannier is the last one.

12:28Yeah.

12:29Can't wait.

12:30Thank you both.

12:32Well, friends, as you've just heard, in between now and October 6th, there will be 15 debuts.

12:38That is a lot to unpack.

12:40We'll be doing exactly that.

12:42All day, every day, and well into the night.

12:45If you don't have the Vogue Runway app, please download it now and follow along.

There Are 15 Designer Debuts This Season. The Big Reshuffle Is Here to Help You Make Sense of Them All

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