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Refinery29 travels to Amsterdam in their Style Out There series to talk with the girls who've found themselves in the Japanese Lolitas style.

A style subculture created by women, to dress women, and to be admired by women, it's one of very few that remove men from the equation entirely. Our host Asha Leo visits a group of women in The Netherlands who've come across a newfound confidence in a style that's traveled halfway around the world to find them.
Transcript
00:04When I was little I was the typical girl who wanted to be a princess.
00:07It's not like I'm still a little girl and still want to be a princess,
00:11but I just really love dressing up like this.
00:13I feel really pretty in it.
00:17My outfits are a kind of walking piece of art where I can just make it into whatever I want.
00:27I've come to the Netherlands, a place known for its liberal views on sex,
00:32in search of a group of women taking their fashion cues from an era of purity and hyper-femininity.
00:38The lolita subculture may have originated in Japan,
00:42but this style takes its inspiration from the silhouettes and modesty of the Victorian era in Europe.
00:48Now, lolita fashion has come full circle,
00:51back to a country with one of the most active lolita communities in the world.
00:56Who are these lolitas?
00:57And why do they choose petticoats over t-shirts and jeans?
01:02I'm on my way to a wonderland of frills and bows,
01:05a hub of the lolita community here in the Netherlands,
01:08the Summer Tales Boutique.
01:12Tell me, what is lolita?
01:15Well, lolita is a Japanese fashion.
01:17It's very princessy, very elegant,
01:20and girly as well.
01:22The name lolita has some different perceptions.
01:25Because it's after the book that had the 12-year-old girl named Lolita that had a sexual connotation.
01:30And the fashion is totally not about that,
01:32but the Japanese chose the term because it sounds so girly and so sweet and innocent,
01:37so we have to deal with that here in Europe.
01:39What about it speaks most to you?
01:41For myself, I feel really pretty when wearing lolita.
01:44There was no sub-style where I could find my own creativity and just be myself,
01:49so I was always a little bit wandering.
01:50I just wore pants and band shirts until I found lolita.
01:54And now it's totally shifted.
01:56I personally get a lot of inspiration from other lolitas.
01:59Now we have like more than 300 girls.
02:01Katie has invited some of the local lolita girls to her store to help me better understand the many styles
02:07and rules.
02:08It has many different sub-styles, sweet lolita, classic lolita, and gothic lolita.
02:14And what better way to learn than to try it for myself?
02:19Since we're going for a bit more classical look, we'll just...
02:21What would be the difference if it wasn't classical?
02:24Well, when we see Renske, she's like sweet lolita, so her bow is up high, and FIFA as well.
02:29She has a really poppy bow.
02:31And classic is more demure and elegant.
02:34What are the other rules to being a lolita?
02:37Always wear a petticoat.
02:38Yep, rule number one.
02:40Shoulders should be covered, you should have no cleavage.
02:43Bare legs is not a thing.
02:49Despite being covered in layers of fabric,
02:52dressed in full lolita seemed to draw more attention than if I was leaving less to the imagination.
03:02Now that I've dressed in this fashion and I've walked around the streets with you, I can't help but notice
03:07that it does bring a lot of attention.
03:10So my question for you is, why not just dress more modest?
03:13It's still fashion style, but it's just more elaborate than what we're used to here in Europe.
03:18I think especially in Holland, people are just a little bit less used, people who really express themselves through clothing.
03:26I am a really, really shy person, and this is probably the loudest I'll ever be in public.
03:34How did you become so confident then?
03:36When I walk around like this with my friends, I tend not to notice the people around me or the
03:42catcalling.
03:42It's irrelevant.
03:45You get quite a thick skin from wearing lolita as well.
03:48People will laugh at you.
03:49In the beginning it's really tough because you take it very personally.
03:52You just go out with friends who also wear it and we're all just like, well whatever, we just like
03:57it and that's it.
03:58I find it really beautiful and it makes me feel good about myself.
04:04Would you still have the courage to dress this way on your own?
04:07I think I would, but it would take out a lot of fun because, yeah, you really get friends through
04:13lolita.
04:15I'm starting to realize that this return to demure clothing allows these women to truly dress for themselves.
04:21What may at first glance seem childlike or even a costume is simply a bold break with fashion conventions.
04:28They can stand out, but also stand together.
04:34I'm about to meet a lolita who has forged her own direction.
04:39I've never really liked rules to begin with, so perhaps that is why my things stand out in the lolita
04:46community.
04:47Linda Friesen is a fashion designer who has been working with the lolita style since 2007.
04:53With an emphasis on shape, corsets and construction, Linda's distinct style may draw more from lolita's European roots than the
05:01Japanese subculture that first attracted her.
05:06When you saw the Japanese fashion for the first time, what was it that you loved?
05:12The clothes, they looked very rich, like something I would want to wear, I would want to be.
05:17So this perfect, immaculate porcelain doll.
05:20But it's kind of evolved over the years.
05:23It became more a grown-up version, so less frills, less bows.
05:27It gives you the chance to become that fairytale princess for that day.
05:32It changes your whole demeanor.
05:36I've gone from being some grungy hipster to being incredibly ladylike.
05:40You feel like you're floating. That's what it is.
05:45It's almost as if dressing this way helps you reconnect to a time where you get to be treated like
05:50a lady.
05:52Yeah, instead of like a piece of ass.
05:54Right, exactly.
05:55It takes a lot of balls to do it.
05:57The fairytale and the princess-like silhouettes, it's always appealed to me.
06:03Did the lolita fashion start because it is women being more ladylike rather than how we are today, where we
06:10kind of tend to exploit our sexuality?
06:13I think it's just playing dress-up, really.
06:17So it's a nice chance to doll up, like literally.
06:22You can't really do it on your own.
06:25You need like-minded people that want to create this atmosphere and this world together with you.
06:31When we are on the street, we usually are going somewhere to meet other lolitas.
06:34There is no fun in it to wear it at home with no friends.
06:38Katie has organised a petticoat and tea party, with girls coming from as far away as Luxembourg and Germany to
06:46celebrate their personal style in a like-minded community.
06:50I always wanted to hide myself, wear black and then I suddenly discovered this style and I was like, this
06:56is what I want from life.
06:59It enhances who I am rather than it hides who I am.
07:03It's just this group of really open-minded people and they don't really judge because they know what it's like
07:09to be judged.
07:14I like to come to the Netherlands a lot because people here are more open and it's more fun.
07:18In Belgium they are more like, hmm, be more normal.
07:22The world is too boring regarding clothing.
07:25They need to dress what they really like because everybody has that thing that they actually want to wear.
07:30When I arrived, I thought Lolita Style might be a simple statement against an over-sexualised modern day culture.
07:37But what I found instead is a longing to reconnect with a bygone femininity and fairytale atmosphere.
07:45As a group, they found strength through friendship and a fashion that creates a world that's just for them.
08:00Do you ever see a time when you won't be dressing like this?
08:03Well, when I go to metal concerts and...
08:07Metal concerts?
08:08Yeah! I wouldn't get beer on this.
08:09I wouldn't get beer on this.

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