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00:01Come with me on a voyage through Spain.
00:07Buenos dias, mi capitán.
00:10As I reveal the secrets.
00:12What an amazing building.
00:13That is magnificent.
00:15Of places you think you know.
00:17Look at the size of this.
00:19I like it!
00:20And the little known regions.
00:23That is spectacular.
00:25Just waiting to be discovered.
00:27This is very nostalgic for me.
00:29Smell the money.
00:30Ooh.
00:31Sadly we're on the Riviera.
00:33But I'm inside the barrel.
00:35Together we'll go beyond the hotspots.
00:38Absolutely spectacular.
00:39It's so remote.
00:41Arriba! Fuerte!
00:42To the places where the magic is made.
00:44You have to love heat and smoke and flame.
00:48Yeah!
00:51I can't wait to show you.
00:57Today I'll take you to the little known cities of Cartagena.
01:01What a fantastic sight.
01:04And Murcia.
01:05This is so beautiful.
01:07Where surprising delicacies.
01:09We are going to put the brains into the pastel de carne.
01:11Brains.
01:13Ancient therapies.
01:14The creature from the Black Lagoon.
01:16And traditional pastimes.
01:20Are celebrated proudly and loudly.
01:24Bobby!
01:34Our journey through Spain continues to a stunning region on its south eastern coast.
01:42Where acres of orchards and vineyards set in the mountains and valleys.
01:47Meet around 175 miles of the Mediterranean Sea.
01:52Welcome to the province of Murcia.
01:57Just an hour's drive south of Alicante at the end of the Costa Blanca.
02:02Few Britons visit this region.
02:05Its reputation is growing.
02:07But I think it's still vastly underrated.
02:10So come with me as I reveal a little of what it has to offer.
02:14Before the crowds discover it too.
02:18We begin in the region's second largest city.
02:24Magnificent Cartagena.
02:26Have you heard of Hannibal?
02:28He was the Carthaginian general.
02:30Hannibal.
02:31Who somewhat took the Romans by surprise.
02:33By marching with an army.
02:34From Spain.
02:35Into Italy.
02:36Through the Alps.
02:38With a herd of elephants.
02:40Well, it was Hannibal's brother-in-law.
02:42Hasdrubal.
02:43Who founded this great city.
02:45It soon fell to Rome.
02:47But that was not the end of its greatness.
02:50Because one civilization after another.
02:53Was magnetized to this natural harbor.
02:56Built castles on the hills.
02:59Left their mark on the city.
03:01But today.
03:02Somewhat distant from golf hotels and beach resorts.
03:07Many people have not heard of Cartagena.
03:10But we.
03:12With a determination worthy of Hannibal.
03:15Will storm the city.
03:16And make it yield its secrets.
03:22Although Cartagena has been inhabited for over 2,000 years.
03:26Some of its most striking buildings are relatively recent.
03:30They represented a new style of architecture called modernista.
03:36Rebuilding the city was possible only because of a dark period that had come just before.
03:43Local historian Maria will tell me more.
03:48Quite surprisingly, Cartagena has a lot of interesting buildings from the 19th and 20th century.
03:55Why is that?
03:56That's because the end of the 19th century was a very, very difficult moment here in Cartagena.
04:04It was a local uprising.
04:07And it wanted to rebel from the state, the Spanish government.
04:13Cartagena wanted to be independent.
04:20In 1873, government forces attacked the city.
04:24And during a six month siege, 70% of its buildings were razed to the ground.
04:33Many of the buildings in the city centre were destroyed.
04:36So it was really a chance to start new buildings.
04:41To start building new palaces like the one we're standing at.
04:46It's Casa Cervantes.
04:48One of the most beautiful buildings that were made in Cartagena.
04:53This is the first building in modernist style to be erected here in the city of Cartagena.
04:58By the architect Victor Beltri.
05:01Very, very famous here.
05:05Victor Beltri had studied in Barcelona,
05:08where he was influenced by the extraordinary buildings of architect Anthony GaudÃ.
05:13A central figure in the new modernista or Art Nouveau style,
05:17growing in Europe and the United States at the time.
05:24Beltri returned to Cartagena bringing ideas with him.
05:32What do we mean by modernist style?
05:34It's about using new materials outside the buildings.
05:39And also mixing, reminiscence from classicism,
05:44but also with organic forms.
05:47Which we have, for example, all these vegetal forms, the palms.
05:52We have also in the iron work, in the carvings in the woods,
05:57we can see all that organic forms.
05:59Every single detail here has been designed just for this building.
06:05The siege created the need and modern technologies the money.
06:11Silver had long been mined in the surrounding area,
06:15but during the Roman Empire it had run dry.
06:19Modern methods allowed access to seams deep underground.
06:23And what better way for the city to show off its newfound wealth
06:27than with a bold new style of architecture?
06:32This is such a beautiful building.
06:34What is this?
06:35This is the Tonjo.
06:36I see the date up here.
06:391907.
06:401907.
06:41Tell me about the styles.
06:42It's very mixed, isn't it?
06:43Yes.
06:44For example, the French rotundas in the corners
06:47that you are seeing over there,
06:49with some elements taken from classicism,
06:52from Baroque, everything there.
06:54You see, it's a mixture, a perfect blend between all these elements.
06:58I feel that great architecture lifts the spirit.
07:02And I see the people of Cartagena and the visitors
07:04just standing here and admiring great buildings.
07:07I love to see buildings like this,
07:09because it's talking a lot about Cartagena's spirit.
07:16That period of great wealth shaped the modern city.
07:21But Maria wants to show me a recent discovery
07:24from a previous period of prosperity.
07:30Oh, Maria.
07:31That is spectacular.
07:36A huge Roman theatre.
07:41What a fantastic sight.
07:45And it's in between all the houses.
07:48It's just stuck in the middle of town.
07:53How was it discovered?
07:54Well, by pure chance.
07:561988.
07:58The theatre is a surprise in so many ways.
08:02Not least its size.
08:04The stage alone is over 40 metres wide.
08:09How big is it?
08:10How many people could sit here, for example?
08:12Over 7,000 people.
08:14And that is quite big.
08:16So this suggests that Cartagena was an important place.
08:18It was very important.
08:19And so the Cartaginians could feel like
08:22they were in any other part of the Roman Imperium.
08:27When the theatre was built between 5 and 1 BC,
08:30Cartagena was a major Roman port.
08:33Made rich by local silver and lead,
08:36the city wanted a theatre to reflect its status
08:39and modelled on the Theatre of Marcellus in Rome.
08:44These theatres were really important structures.
08:48They were grandiose structures.
08:49Imagine if you came here as a common person
08:52and you see all this luxury, this expense.
08:55It's most impressive, isn't it?
08:56Yes.
08:58In pink travel time.
09:00Coming from local quarry
09:02and also the white Carrara marble
09:04coming by sea from Italy.
09:07So this was a prestigious place.
09:09Yes.
09:10This was the luxury people wanted to see
09:13in a theatre like this.
09:17When the Roman Empire fell, the city was sacked.
09:20And over the following centuries,
09:22most of it was destroyed or left in ruins.
09:25What are these pillars here?
09:27It's a curious story
09:29because people in the Middle Ages
09:30found all these columns just thrown around
09:34and they wanted solid material
09:37to build their new buildings.
09:39And these columns have been chopped up like a chorizo, haven't they?
09:42Yes, completely like a chorizo.
09:43And this is one of the problems with Roman ruins.
09:46If people knew that they were there,
09:48they used them as a quarry for their new building works.
09:51They just came and looted everything.
09:52Yes.
09:53They just came here.
09:54They took it.
09:55It was the,
09:55la ley de la jungla,
09:57as we say it in Spanish.
09:59The law of the jungle.
10:00The law of the jungle.
10:03What seems extraordinary given its scale
10:06is that over time the theatre disappeared.
10:09Built over by successive city inhabitants.
10:14Then, in the late 1980s,
10:17it was rediscovered by chance
10:19under a residential neighbourhood.
10:21Tell me about the discovery.
10:23The discovery was in 1988.
10:26But they didn't know nothing about the Roman theatre.
10:30They found a little bit and they had to work away.
10:32Yes, exactly.
10:33They found a little section of the stairs
10:35at the lower level
10:36and then they continued with excavations
10:39until 1990 that they find out that it was a Roman theatre.
10:47Over the next 15 years,
10:49the site was excavated and then restored.
10:52the surrounding modern city simply adds to its drama.
10:59Maria, I have a thought.
11:00Shall we test the acoustic of the Roman theatre?
11:03Would you mind going up into the auditorium?
11:05And I will speak to you from the stage.
11:07It's a great idea.
11:13Maria, you can hear me clearly.
11:18The acoustics are marvellous.
11:21All the world's a stage
11:23and all the men and women merely players.
11:29They have their exits and their entrances.
11:33And one man in his time plays many parts.
11:38His acts being seven ages.
11:49Next, I attend to a delicate delicacy.
11:54He says I'm suffering.
11:55I certainly am suffering.
11:56A little bit.
11:57And apply a healing therapy.
11:59That's working already.
12:01Really?
12:01It's a hand action.
12:02It's these magic hands.
12:03Absolutely.
12:13I'm showing you Spain's little-known region of Murcia.
12:17We've started in the city of Cartagena
12:20on its south-eastern coast.
12:22It's overlooked by most tourists
12:23heading for the Costa Blanca next door,
12:26which I think is a mistake
12:27because it has much to offer.
12:32If you drive to Cartagena,
12:34you come across a long, flat plain.
12:37And just when you think
12:38you're reaching the Mediterranean,
12:40boom!
12:41A range of mountains.
12:42And that is the secret of the city.
12:45A port protected on all sides.
12:49In this part of Spain,
12:51a cathedral stands where there used to be a mosque.
12:54That, in turn, was once a Visigothic church.
12:57And before that,
12:58there might have been a Roman temple.
13:00In Cartagena today,
13:02they are excavating beneath the bullring,
13:05where they found a Roman amphitheatre,
13:08suggesting that the same spot
13:10has been a place of public spectacle
13:13for what?
13:142,000 years.
13:19One constant is that Cartagena
13:22has always relied on fish.
13:25And in the many tapas bars across the city,
13:28one, in particular,
13:29appears again and again.
13:33The humble anchovy.
13:39Few are caught here.
13:41Most come from the Cantabrian Sea
13:43on Spain's northern coast,
13:45where they're salt-cured in barrels.
13:50They're then transformed by hand
13:53into delicate fillets.
13:56Adriana.
13:58It's an art reserved for a skilled tapas chef
14:01like Adriana.
14:02However,
14:03she'll show me the bare bones of the process.
14:06Take this.
14:07Take this.
14:08Take this.
14:10Take this.
14:11Take this.
14:14Look at that.
14:15Okay.
14:15That's beautiful.
14:16Take this.
14:18Take this.
14:19Take this.
14:22Adriana makes it look easy.
14:24I'm not convinced
14:25that the same will be said of me.
14:27You put it here.
14:29Take this.
14:30Take this.
14:30It doesn't cost you much.
14:31There.
14:34So, very slowly,
14:36cleaning off the skin.
14:40Turn the fellow over,
14:42holding by the tail.
14:44Cantabrian anchovies are considered
14:46amongst the best in the world.
14:48And after six months stored in salt,
14:51great care is needed to prepare them.
14:54We're opening up the two fillets.
14:56See.
15:00Separate.
15:01The trick here is not to break the anchovy.
15:03Okay.
15:04Yes.
15:05This goes here.
15:07And we take the next,
15:09the dorsal spine.
15:13Very good.
15:14The number of times I've seen
15:17a dried anchovy or a tinned anchovy
15:19and never quite understood how you got
15:22from that to that.
15:24It takes Adriana less than a minute
15:26to fillet the anchovy.
15:28Let's see how her apprentice fares.
15:32Now, with any luck,
15:33we'll be able to open this up.
15:36Ooh.
15:37This is the difficult pitch, I think.
15:42Please, Adriana, this is my first.
15:47Well.
15:48This one I'll put aside.
15:50Here.
15:51Now I'm going to try and get the spine out.
15:54These things are so delicate.
15:58The spine doesn't want to come out
15:59without taking all of the fish with it.
16:04Mmm.
16:05Mmm.
16:06Muy bien.
16:08No sé si muy bien, pero no malo.
16:11No se ha roto, está bien.
16:13Mm-hmm.
16:14¿Quieres hacer más?
16:16Supongo que sÃ.
16:18Okay.
16:21How many anchovies do you prepare in a day?
16:24Los cuatro kilos, cuatro horas.
16:27Mucho trabajo.
16:28SÃ, mucho.
16:30También te duele la espalda, eh?
16:31Oh, yes.
16:32You get backache from doing that.
16:34At this rate, it will take me four days.
16:43Te veo sufrir, Michael.
16:50In a world of high-tech,
16:52there's something charming
16:53about the attention that Adriana lavishes
16:56on each and every anchovy.
16:58Okay.
16:59Arriba y regresa.
17:01Ya está.
17:02La siguiente.
17:03Arriba.
17:05Okay.
17:06Está salido muy bien.
17:08It's come out very well.
17:09SÃ.
17:09It's now time to make one of Cartagena's
17:12most popular tapas, la marinera.
17:16In the late 1970s,
17:17a hungry sailor asked for a bar snack.
17:21In the kitchen, there was a breadstick,
17:23Russian salad,
17:25and anchovies.
17:27And so the story has it,
17:29la marinera was born.
17:32Ta-da!
17:34Muy bien.
17:35MuchÃsimas gracias a ti.
17:37A ti, Michael.
17:39Y ahora?
17:40Te la tienes que comer.
17:42Exactamente.
17:43Now, time to eat.
17:47I've always thought that one of the great things
17:49about a tapa was its simplicity.
17:52I mean, a breadstick,
17:53Russian salad,
17:54and an anchovy.
17:55Could anything be more straightforward?
17:57Shame on me.
17:58I had no idea that the anchovy
18:01had been six months in salt,
18:03and it takes me about five minutes to peel.
18:06So, the tapa is not simple,
18:09but it is delicious.
18:12Mmm.
18:15Marinera.
18:17From Cartagena.
18:19Creamy.
18:20Crunchy.
18:21Fishy.
18:25My hunger satiated,
18:27I'm heading to one of the region's
18:30most spectacular natural landmarks.
18:32Just north of the city,
18:34it's Europe's largest saltwater lagoon,
18:37the Mar Menor.
18:40It's a body of saltwater.
18:43There's a band of land
18:44that almost cuts it off from the sea,
18:47but saltwater goes to and fro.
18:49Famous for chameleons and flamingos.
18:56It's also been a source of sea salt
18:59since the Roman Empire.
19:01The intense colour of the water
19:03is caused by salt-loving microorganisms
19:07which thrive in the shallow pools
19:09which are created as the water evaporates,
19:12leaving the salt behind.
19:15Sitting on the lagoon's shores
19:17is Los Alcáceres.
19:19In the summer, the fishing village
19:21is popular with tourists
19:22who flock here for the nearby golf courses.
19:27The attraction for me is a dirty secret
19:30found at the end of the jetties
19:32that poke into the warm water of the lagoon.
19:38Hello, gentlemen.
19:39What a pleasure.
19:39My name is Michael.
19:40So I find you putting mud on yourselves.
19:43Why are you doing that, may I ask?
19:45Because this is really good for the health.
19:48Yeah? Yeah.
19:48It keeps you moisturised,
19:50it has minerals on it
19:52and it's really good for your bones and your muscles.
19:56Locals say that if you do that six days in a row,
20:00you don't get ill during the year.
20:02Do they charge for the mud?
20:04Do you have to...?
20:05No, you don't have to pay nothing.
20:06You can use it wherever you want.
20:09That's extraordinary, isn't it?
20:11Because, I mean, a spa could be very expensive.
20:13But this is for nothing.
20:17Smearing your skin in mineral-rich mud
20:20has been practised since Roman times.
20:23Today it's recognised as a therapy
20:25for skin conditions and inflammation.
20:28Some believe this mud can work miracles.
20:33I'm meeting regular bather Bernadette,
20:36who has chronic arthritis.
20:39Nine years ago,
20:40when I was diagnosed with this condition,
20:42they were really worried that within three years
20:45I would be in a wheelchair.
20:47And that was nine years ago?
20:47Yes, so...
20:49And look at you.
20:49Yeah.
20:50Far from a wheelchair.
20:51And you put that down to the mud, do you?
20:53Yes.
20:54I know, I'm there back cycling.
20:56And, you know, walking long distances.
21:00I want what she's having.
21:05In order to do that,
21:06I'll need a costume change
21:08and my trusty bucket.
21:10And we're off.
21:14And then you go and pick nice soft mud.
21:19Ugh!
21:20Okay.
21:29Excellent.
21:30That's enough now.
21:31Is it?
21:31Yes.
21:32Will that do the two of it?
21:33Absolutely.
21:34There's quite a lot of me, you know.
21:36Yeah.
21:42Tips on application.
21:43How do you put it on?
21:44You apply the mud in a light coat.
21:48You go ahead and show me.
21:49Okay.
21:49I start with my legs.
21:51In a light coat.
21:52It doesn't have to go on very thickly.
21:54Keep all that arthritis at bay.
21:56Yes.
21:56Give the knee a good rub.
21:59I need you to put it on my back.
22:03That's working already.
22:04Is it?
22:04Oh, gosh.
22:05Absolutely.
22:05Really?
22:06Well, it's the hands, you know.
22:07Yes.
22:07Nothing to do with the mud.
22:08It's the hand action.
22:08It's these magic hands.
22:10Absolutely.
22:11Yeah.
22:12Would you like me to do something for you?
22:13Yeah, would you mind doing my face?
22:14I will do it.
22:18And you see me getting more beautiful there by the moment.
22:20Absolutely by the second.
22:22There's a rather massive area you've not done yet,
22:24which is the nose.
22:27You might need another bucket for that.
22:32You know, Bernadette, I've just been a little bit worried
22:34that someone I know might see me looking like this.
22:37But, um...
22:38They won't recognise you.
22:39Well, that's true.
22:40But you won't tell anyone, would you?
22:41Because my name would be Mud.
22:44My lips are sealed.
22:47It seems to me that as it dries,
22:49it kind of tightens on your face.
22:52Yes.
22:52You feel a little bit dingly.
22:54Yes.
22:54Is that what you get as well?
22:55Bit of a tingle.
22:56You know it's working, then.
22:57Oh, right.
22:59The creature from the Black Lagoon.
23:04Next, an extraordinary boudoir.
23:07This is so beautiful.
23:09And an awful meat pie.
23:10Is that a complete brain?
23:12The hard one.
23:13It's a hard brain.
23:14Ah!
23:18Ah!
23:19Ah!
23:24Our journey through Spain continues along its southeastern coast
23:28through the little-known region of Murcia,
23:30where we're heading away from its second city
23:33and on towards its first.
23:40The capital is also called Murcia.
23:43It is a city with a reputation for being very hot.
23:46It's set in a bowl of mountains.
23:49It has a very beautiful cathedral.
23:54Thirty miles inland, the city of Murcia sits on the fertile plain of the Segura River.
24:05Founded as a provincial capital by the Emir of Córdoba in 825,
24:10Murcia later became a centre for silk production,
24:13connected to the Silk Road,
24:15a trading route that linked China to the west.
24:19The city still has vestiges of that industry and its successors.
24:26Some of the streets in Murcia are named after the trades that were conducted there in the Middle Ages.
24:32Caboneria, soap makers.
24:34Plateria, silversmiths.
24:36And traperia, well, that was tanners and then suppliers of cloth.
24:41And that street has an interesting history because King Jaime I built a wall to separate Muslims from Christians.
24:48The wall was not very popular.
24:50It didn't last very long.
24:52And when it came down, it left a straight and wide void,
24:56which is today probably the city's most popular shopping street.
25:04Calle Traperia leads onto the city's most famous landmark, Murcia Cathedral.
25:12But before I take you there, behind closed doors, there's the most surprising of buildings.
25:21Oh, Cristina, this, this is so beautiful.
25:26What a fantastic place.
25:30Helping me to explore the extraordinary Royal Casino of Murcia is local historian Cristina.
25:39This building is a social club to hide society of Murcia from 19th century.
25:49Casino, in this case, means a member's club, not a place for gambling.
25:57Its construction began in 1847, though inspiration for its interiors was drawn from further back in Spain's rich history.
26:19And it's very interesting to me that as late as the 19th century, Christian architects are still copying the Islamic
26:26style as a tribute and a sort of nostalgia, too.
26:30Yes, in the 19th century, there was a romantic moment about the past.
26:37People started to look back and wanted to copy those societies.
26:43If you read around the perimeter of the room, we can read all the time nothing greater than Allah.
26:51Think about that Catholic society.
26:53They didn't know what they were writing.
26:56They wanted to copy it exactly.
26:59And it was a Catholic society.
27:01Doesn't make sense.
27:04Each room we enter is another surprise.
27:09Ooh!
27:11A pretty and highly decorated room.
27:14This room is really beautiful.
27:17This is the ladies dressing room.
27:19But it was a gentleman's club.
27:21But in the year 1920, it changed.
27:24Women could become full members of the casino.
27:28Uh-huh.
27:29So they decided to create a room for them.
27:32With a very beautiful ceiling.
27:35Quite interesting because one thinks of Spain as having a lot of machismo.
27:39I mean, married women couldn't have bank accounts until relatively recently.
27:45So I'm amazed that in 1920 they were full members.
27:48We can say that 1920 and especially 1930s were very progressive if you compare it with what happened later with
27:59the dictatorship.
28:02After 1939, such progressive changes came to an abrupt halt.
28:08When under General Franco's nationalist government, women lost their right to vote and other freedoms.
28:17They were fully restored only in 1978.
28:22My father was a member of a casino.
28:25And it was a very valuable thing to him.
28:27He would go down to the casino to have a coffee or whatever.
28:32But I think most of all for conversation.
28:35What he would call a tertulia.
28:37Yes.
28:37So he and a group of other friends regularly would meet for conversation at the casino.
28:42Mm-hmm.
28:44The casino is an important part of their daily life.
28:48They come here, have a coffee, talk with friends, different things.
28:52And they share knowledge.
28:55Thank you so much. I've enjoyed the tour of the casino.
28:58Not just for the appreciation of the building.
29:01But I think also it's an insight into a Spanish way of life.
29:05Yes, it's a secret that we have here.
29:12There's no secret about the city's most prominent landmark, which must be viewed and appreciated.
29:22Constructed in the Middle Ages, it marked Murcia's transformation from a Muslim into a Christian city.
29:30The cathedral has a façade in that over-the-top style known as Baroque.
29:36But behind here is a much older cathedral.
29:39Indeed, it used to be a mosque.
29:41And when the Christians took over from the Muslims, they converted it into a cathedral and created a beautiful square
29:48so that people could see it.
29:50The façade was added in 1751.
29:54Some 230 years later, the cathedral still towers above the surrounding city.
30:00The cathedral has a lovely bell tower, which took centuries to complete.
30:06But when it was finished, it turned out to be the second highest in Spain, beaten only by that in
30:11Seville.
30:12It has a set of bells, including Nonna, which weighs more than a tonne, four foot in diameter,
30:18and it sends out over all the city the most marvellous, resonant bong!
30:31Time, I think, for something to eat.
30:33Spain has a tradition of meat pies, which dates back to the Middle Ages.
30:41This bakery opened in 1828 and has been selling Murcia's special meat pie ever since.
30:48It does smell very well, isn't it?
30:51Carlos is the seventh generation of his family to bake them here.
30:56How old is this pie?
30:59It's, like, at least more than 300 years old.
31:04That's extraordinary. How do you know that?
31:08It explains the way to make meat pies.
31:14This is from 1695.
31:18It's a king's order.
31:21Wow. Yeah.
31:23King Carlos II of Spain's decree specified every detail.
31:30Even down to the exact dimensions of the case
31:33and the quality of the flour that would be used to create the pie.
31:38Carlos has agreed to reveal the secrets of how he makes it.
31:43Keep this, this way.
31:45Okay? Yeah?
31:46The other way.
31:49Let's see how you do it.
31:51Vamos, Michael.
31:53Poco a poco. Poco a poco. Perfecto.
31:56Muy bien, Michael.
31:57Muy bien.
31:59What do I do at the end here?
32:00Ah, don't worry. You cut it.
32:01I just cut it.
32:03Ole, Michael. Muy bien, tÃo.
32:06That's not too bad, actually.
32:08No, no.
32:08Y tú lo que tienes que hacer es...
32:13...suave...
32:13...con posas.
32:15Ah, that's so interesting.
32:18Vale.
32:20You're using dough, almost like a sponge...
32:22...to press down on the other dough.
32:25And make these nice shapes.
32:27After that, you have to...
32:30...mean while I finish that.
32:31So that cuts the pastry, doesn't it?
32:33Yeah.
32:39Next, in goes the filling.
32:41Minced beef and salt.
32:43Sliced, hard-boiled egg.
32:45And then, normally, chorizo.
32:48Today, Carlos is making an especial.
32:54We are going to put the brains into the pastel de carne.
32:58Brains? Brains.
32:59Pork brains?
33:01Pork brains?
33:02Pork brains.
33:04Is that a complete brain?
33:06The half one.
33:07It's a half brain.
33:08Oh, poor little piggy.
33:10So how much of this do we put in?
33:12Everything.
33:13What, everything in one pie?
33:14Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
33:15Wow.
33:16What kind of flavour does this add?
33:18It's like...
33:19...ierro.
33:20Like iron?
33:21Yeah.
33:21It's quite disgusting.
33:24I don't like it at all, eh?
33:25But people go crazy with this flavour.
33:28Really?
33:29What's your busiest day?
33:31El entierro de la sardina.
33:32The burial of the sardine?
33:34Yeah.
33:35We celebrate the end of the Easter.
33:36Yes.
33:37When we left the fish and we're going to start to eat meat.
33:40Yes, of course.
33:41The end of Lent, the end of the period when you can't eat meat.
33:44So you bury the sardine, you go back to meat.
33:48This special day to celebrate the pastel de carne murciano was introduced in 2009.
33:56How many pies did you sell that day?
33:59Close, 1,000.
34:00That's extraordinary.
34:01And that's extraordinary.
34:02And they're all made by hand.
34:03Yeah.
34:04Yeah.
34:05What in my mind makes the pie stand out from other Spanish pies that I've enjoyed is its lid.
34:13Rubbed with pig fat, the pastry is then tightly rolled before being sliced like a stick of rock and stretched
34:20by hand.
34:2325 minutes in the oven and it's ready for me to try.
34:31That is really crunchy.
34:34This is my spectacular puff pastry.
34:37It has this spiral, doesn't it?
34:39It's so good looking.
34:43That's a great pie covers.
34:46And this is a pie for all occasions.
34:49For rich, for poor, for home, for picnic.
34:52Congratulations to you and generations of your family on this amazing meat pie.
35:01Next, I learned the look.
35:07Excellent.
35:08And taste a tasty pastry.
35:10The trouble is you get it on your nose.
35:11No, you put it on your nose.
35:13Oh!
35:24Although my journey through Spain's little known Murcia region is coming to an end, there's still time to show you
35:30a couple of special places.
35:33In Spain, families are extraordinarily united and close.
35:40It's typical for older relations who may be invalids to live with a family.
35:48Communities are also very strong.
35:51People of all generations come together habitually, but also more broadly, I think people of all generations are really interested
36:01in sustaining customs and traditions.
36:05And they do so wholeheartedly and unitedly.
36:15I've heard that 15 minutes' drive from the city centre, in the town of La Alberca, there's what's called a
36:22Peña Huertana that's been keeping alive ancient traditions.
36:37The great place.
36:38Well done.
36:39You are Juan Manuel.
36:41Hello, my king.
36:42Hello.
36:43What a pleasure.
36:43Un pleasure.
36:44Un pleasure.
36:45Juan Manuel is President of Peña Huertana Laseda.
36:49Tell me, what is a Peña Huertana?
36:51What is?
36:52The Peña Huertana is an association, without any interest in profit,
36:56apolitica que defiende las tradiciones de la huerta y de nuestra región de Murcia.
37:01The word huerta means an orchard.
37:04¿Qué tipo de huerta, what sort of orchard was there here?
37:07Huerta.
37:08La palabra huerta significa lo que ha sido la subsistencia de todos los murcianos.
37:13Era donde se cultivaba el arroz, las verduras, berenjenas, pimientos, tomates
37:20y gusanos de seda, que por eso es la palabra de peña la seda.
37:26Up until the arrival of the Islamic Empire in the 8th century,
37:30the art of silk making was unknown in Spain.
37:35Centuries later, it would become Murcia's main source of wealth.
37:39Much of it manufactured by families living off the land,
37:43growing mulberry trees like these to feed the silkworms.
37:47Here, you made silk.
37:50SÃ.
37:51Aquà se criaba la seda, en la alberca.
37:54La alberca fue el centro neurálgico del corazón de Murcia,
37:57donde se cultivaba la seda.
38:00El oro de la huerta.
38:01Era con lo que las familias podÃan subsistir durante todo un año
38:05gracias a los gusanos de seda.
38:07Now, Juanma, tell me about your clothes.
38:10What are you dressed in?
38:11Esto es un traje tÃpico de Murcia.
38:14Esto es una manta de invierno, pantalón de terciopelo,
38:18chaleco brocado.
38:19And what about the hat?
38:20Sombrero.
38:21El sombrero tÃpico murciano.
38:24Y póntelo.
38:24Póntelo.
38:25Póntelo.
38:26It's a beautiful hat.
38:28Typical Murcia hat.
38:29My head is a little bigger than yours.
38:31Además, no.
38:32El sombrero tiene que calárselo.
38:34Calárselo, asÃ.
38:35En plan, es chulo.
38:37No, no, no.
38:37Bajito, chulo.
38:38Mirada, mira.
38:39Mirada.
38:41Mirada, asÃ.
38:42Mirada a la mujer, asÃ.
38:44AhÃ, ahÃ, ahÃ, ahÃ, ahÃ.
38:45Ole, ole.
38:48Since 1975, members of this Peña have dressed, danced, played and eaten
38:56to ensure that their ancestors' customs are sustained.
38:59Hola, Pilar.
39:01Hola, Michael.
39:02¿Qué es lo que estamos haciendo aqu�
39:04Estamos haciendo paparajotes.
39:06Paparajotes.
39:07SÃ.
39:08¿En qué consiste?
39:09Paparajotes es un postre que se prepara con hoja de limonero.
39:14Se va rebozando en una masa.
39:16Entonces se frÃen.
39:17Y cuando están fritos, se rebozan en azúcar con canela.
39:21Thought to have been introduced by Sephardic Jews during the Muslim rule,
39:26this is a local delicacy with a North African twist.
39:30¿Y los probamos?
39:31Shall we try them?
39:32Venga, tú primero.
39:34Tú también, ¿no?
39:35Venga.
39:39La hoja no se come.
39:40No.
39:41La hoja no se come.
39:41No, no, no.
39:41La hoja no.
39:44Mmm.
39:45Mmm.
39:46It's, um, it's very sweet, of course.
39:48It's lovely.
39:48Crisp.
39:50Lemony.
39:51What a shame that you can't eat the leaf as well.
39:53Qué pena de no poder comer la hoja también.
39:55Está bueno.
39:56Excelente.
39:57Bueno.
39:57Mmm.
39:59Probably as you get it on your nose.
40:01No, te la, te la puesto tú.
40:03Si es que...
40:04Oh.
40:06Um, I think there are lots of hungry mouths over here.
40:09Let's see who would like one.
40:13The game of bolos huerzanos is traditional to the region of Murcia.
40:18Muy bien, muy bien, muy bien.
40:20All you have to do is knock over one of the nine pins.
40:24What could be simpler?
40:27SÃ, señor.
40:28SÃ, señor.
40:30Pa' este lado.
40:31Más pared que te vaya a la pared.
40:33Venga, a ver si es verdad.
40:35¡Ah!
40:36¡Ahà está!
40:36¡Ahà está!
40:37¡Ahà está!
40:38¡Ahà está!
40:38¡Ahà está!
40:39¡Ahà está!
40:39¡Ahà está!
40:39¡Ahà está!
40:40¡Ahà está!
40:41You're a good teacher.
40:41You're a good coach.
40:44Amigos.
40:45Gracias.
40:46Bueno, I think we've earned paparajotes.
40:49Vamos.
40:49Venga.
41:05Venga.
41:06Venga.
41:07Venga.
41:07Venga.
41:10Venga.
41:14Venga.
41:40Venga.
41:47Venga.
41:50Venga.
42:04Venga.
42:09Venga.
42:13Venga.
42:25Venga.
42:26Venga.
42:30Venga.
42:34Venga.
42:36Venga.
42:54Venga.
42:56Venga.
42:57Venga.
42:58Venga.
43:00Venga.
43:01Venga.
43:01Venga.
43:02Venga.
43:03Venga.
43:04Venga.
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