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00:00On Eating Dirty, David travels to Syracuse to a trendy spot serving fresh fish straight from the market.
00:05Life is very, very good here in Sicily.
00:09Then he visits a chef who's bringing her Michelin-star cooking to the streets of a small town in Puglia.
00:15It's like a gift from the gods.
00:18Finally, he heads to a lively town festival in Calabria with lots of food and some new friends.
00:24These ladies are amazing!
00:28Oh, this is the ear.
00:30It's actually not bad.
00:31I'll be your guide as David Rocco goes on a wild ride through Italy.
00:50It's eating dirty, baby!
00:56Our first destination is on the east coast of Sicily.
00:58Close to the city of Syracuse lies the tiny island, Ortizia, where you can find its world-famous open-air street market.
01:07It's amazing because this market sells a little bit of everything but I love the prepared food.
01:12We have fruits, vegetables, fish. It's full of life but it's like a throwback to a whole different era.
01:19It's been around for 150 years and they're still doing it like back in the day.
01:23However, tourists have started to catch on so a lot of vendors have changed to cater solely to them.
01:28But if you look around, you'll still find some places that are as authentic as it gets.
01:33David's guide today is Paolo, who manages cappuccio, a trendy seafood spot tucked inside this market.
01:45But before lunch, he wanted to show Mr. Rocco what the market has to offer.
01:49And what better start than with freshly shopped oysters?
01:53Gin spritz?
01:54Yes. And this is a tapate. This is a classic.
01:57Yeah.
01:58See?
01:59OK, here goes.
02:00You're a lucky man here.
02:05We are.
02:06Grazie, grazie.
02:07Grazie.
02:08Ciao.
02:09It has a great vibe here. It has that, you know, Sicilian supple.
02:14You can feel the authentic vibes.
02:16Absolutely.
02:17The next stop on the tour is Angelo's. He runs one of the oldest fish stalls here in the market.
02:22I love a little taste.
02:23It's amazing.
02:24This is just thinly sliced squid, raw, with a little olive oil and lemon.
02:33Angelo, let's switch it up.
02:35Great, great.
02:36This is raw prawns with fresh mint, olive oil and lemon.
02:42Angelo, this is amazing.
02:45This is the real Sicily.
02:48Paolo now leads David back to the restaurant for lunch.
03:02This place is hip, laid back, and has some great takes on seafood pairs.
03:05It's on seafood paired with excellent local wines.
03:09This is kind of a place where the cool kids hang out, you know.
03:12It's a fun take on market food.
03:14Paolo has come on board, and he's kind of like the sommelier.
03:18David's also joined by Marco, Capuccio's owner, who's a musician and the son of the singing fishmonger, Angelo.
03:25Marco grew up in this marketplace.
03:27He comes from a lineage of fishermen.
03:30He's a musician.
03:31His dad's a musician.
03:32So, just a fantastic atmosphere here.
03:36I love it.
03:37Love it.
03:38So, what's this?
03:40This is botarga.
03:42Botarga is dry-cured tuna fish eggs, a salty umami local delicacy.
03:48Very, very complex.
03:55It is.
03:56I saw on a couple of tables you had these bruschettas with ricotta and that botarga.
04:01I think Hugo will make something for us.
04:04In the kitchen, we find Hugo, a French-Italian chef.
04:08Now, don't worry.
04:09No one's listening, but French food or Italian food?
04:12And there's only one right answer.
04:15Everyday Italian food.
04:16Right.
04:17For serious food, French food.
04:19Once a year, then that's it.
04:21That beautiful Sicilian bread gets sliced, then Hugo drizzles local olive oil, adds ricotta, and tops it with grated botarga.
04:29Hugo, grazie, grazie, grazie.
04:32Grazie, grazie.
04:33Grazie.
04:40Caspida.
04:41This is crazy.
04:42Tanta nova.
04:43Crazy enough.
04:44Wow.
04:45This is the kind of vibe I love.
04:47Taking the elements from the market and presenting it in such a sophisticated, heartfelt, beautiful way.
04:55It's simple stupid.
04:56It's an explosion.
04:57And I say it in the most respectful way.
04:59Even unexpected.
05:00Yes, yes.
05:01And this is another big classic.
05:03Yeah.
05:04You have the bread.
05:05Yeah.
05:06The same one.
05:07And this is local, marinated anchovies, therefore.
05:09And we put pepperoncino from here.
05:11Yes.
05:12Lemon like that.
05:13Okay.
05:14Oh, this is for us.
05:15Yes.
05:16My new favorite place.
05:17Like, look at the simplicity of this.
05:19Do you have something that the fishermen would eat years ago?
05:23It's rustic and fancy in the same way.
05:27Wow.
05:28It's so easy that even the French can do it.
05:33That's good.
05:35As they head to the tables outside, Hugo brings out what they call their fish nubils.
05:40Cheers.
05:41Cheers.
05:42Cheers.
05:43Cheers.
05:44Cheers.
05:45Cheers.
05:46Cheers.
05:47Oh, wow.
05:48Okay.
05:49To prepare these, Marco fillets fresh cod and then chops it into nugget sized pieces.
05:55Then Hugo breads them and into the deep fryer they go.
06:02The exterior is very flaky and crispy.
06:09It's accompanied with its extremely purple homemade sumac mayonnaise.
06:22These are fantastic. I mean you guys call them nuggets so you're even having fun with the name.
06:28Local cod, right? But I mean it's done in such a beautiful way.
06:33Trust on us and you will have probably one of the best experiences.
06:37No, that over there is amazing. That over there.
06:41I will trade you one of those for one of these and try it with the mayo. The mayo is fantastic.
06:47Yeah. How did you hear about this place?
06:50We just walked around. I saw a lot of dark hair, a lot of Italians and a lot of old people.
06:55This is the place, this is the place.
06:57I want you to try that because when I ate it, I was like having dialogue with God.
07:07And this is really good.
07:09It's very good. It is. Yeah.
07:11And now this place, it's all about heart, simple cooking.
07:15Simple but it's really good. Very good. Yes. So, compliments. Yeah.
07:20Being a talented musician, Marco plays a song to accompany the final course,
07:25which is grilled octopus skewers served on a bed of yogurt and topped with induya,
07:30a spicy pork spread delicacy from Calabria.
07:32La madina non c'è sulica mi sconsa stu doluri.
07:35La sira non c'è frisco come astuta stu diseu.
07:39La notti non è giorno ma lo stesso ma lo stesso ma lo svecchio.
07:43La fami scumbariu.
07:44La fami scumbariu.
07:45Y è la città sini.
07:46Sparka.
07:47Wow. Wow.
07:50This isn't grilled octopus.
07:51This is fantasia. This is creativity in the kitchen.
08:01Life is very, very good here in Sicilia.
08:06Sicilia.
08:08Bella la Sicilia.
08:15Grande.
08:17Bravo.
08:24Our next destination is a short flight away, close to Bari in the Puglia region.
08:30David's heading to the small, ancient and quiet town of Combassano.
08:34Here we find Evviva Maria, an elevated street food destination from a world-class chef, Maria Cicciorella.
08:41Maria was first recruited into being a chef by her son for his restaurant Pasha.
08:45He'd lost his head chef and knew exactly who to call in an emergency.
08:48Here's Mum.
08:49Good job he did, as she earned them a Michelin star.
08:52But now she has her own quieter place, where she continues to cook the recipes she grew up with, but at a more sedate pace.
08:59Together with her assistant Francesco, they make a selection of upscale street food that includes a famous calzone made with homemade dough, which is traditionally served on Good Friday.
09:09It's a savoury pot pie filled with onions, olives and tuna.
09:14It comes out crispy, flaky and delicious.
09:17Maria, I might not leave here.
09:25I'm going to be your mascot.
09:27I'm not going to leave.
09:28I'm going to be right here.
09:29As long as you feed me, you know, non vado via.
09:33And I love your story because you fell into this world of being a chef.
09:38How did it all start?
09:39Allora, io ho iniziato a cucinare per il ristorante e poi nel nostro ristorante per emergenza.
09:48Perché all'improvvisto siamo rimasti senza chef.
09:51Dato forza e coraggio alla famiglia, ho detto, va bene, non vi preoccupate, intanto faccio io.
09:57No, e mio figlio, Antonello, è entusiasta.
10:01Arriva la mamma.
10:02Here comes mamma.
10:04Per te era una sfida per te stesso?
10:06Cioè perché sei entrato?
10:08Perché veramente è un mondo difficile.
10:10Non lo sapevo che era un mondo difficile.
10:12Meglio.
10:13Devevo prendere i butti.
10:15Ma dire la verità , non l'ho mai visto come difficile.
10:18Impegnativo, sì.
10:20Quello che facevo io, che sapevo fare, ho sempre preparato cose che...
10:26Sapevo già fare.
10:28Come hai fatto per...
10:29Per la famiglia.
10:30Per la cucina di casa, sì.
10:31I love this.
10:32So you got this wonderful surprise.
10:35You got a Michelin star.
10:36Addirittura quando ho ricevuto la telefonata, pensando a uno scherzo, volevo chiudere.
10:42Però...
10:43Fortuna non l'ho fatto.
10:45Dopo tutto questo chef stellato, hai aperto questo posto.
10:50Mi è piaciuta perché non mi impegnava molto.
10:52Mi sembrava quello che facevo tutti i giorni.
10:55It was like cooking for your friends.
10:56Esatto, esatto.
10:57Mi è piaciuta e siamo qui.
11:00Amazing.
11:01Next on the menu is another one of her famous traditional Poulian dishes, bread meatballs.
11:06I love this Poulian tradition of honoring ingredients and not having waste.
11:12And these are pulpette di pane, or meatballs, but with no meat.
11:17Leftover bread has this incredible texture.
11:20Dell'impasto c'è pane raffermo bagnato con acqua, poi c'è formaggio, uova, e mento.
11:27Once they mix all that together, they fry it in oil, making this simple, tasty, vegetarian
11:32meatball.
11:33Crispy on the outside, and soft and moist on the inside, almost like a falafel texture.
11:46Francesco, amazing.
11:47How long have you been working here?
11:48Three months, circa.
11:49Ah, only three months.
11:50And how is it working with Maria?
11:54I love this.
11:55I mean, even Francesco is getting emotional.
11:56Working with Maria, there's this sense of family, there's love, there's heart with every single
12:23dish.
12:24And no dish is that more apparent than in her world-famous giant orecchiette.
12:28I love how Maria makes her orecchiette really big, so it traps all the sauce inside.
12:36And her orecchiette are kind of meaty.
12:40They have lots of body, lots of texture, chewiness, but they're soft and delicate.
12:46Look at that.
12:48It's almost like little buckets of the sauce.
12:52That explode in your mouth.
12:55It's a testament to Maria's love of food, tradition, family, and her grandmother's recipes.
13:01So good.
13:03Maria, these orecchiette are big.
13:09I remember my grandmother used to make these, and it was always my favorite pasta shape.
13:15But why are they so big?
13:16Why are they so big?
13:17Why are they so big?
13:18I wanted to create a typical Pugliese.
13:22The orecchiette we've always had.
13:24Is this your trademark?
13:26I came like this since the first time I tried it.
13:30So if I'm wrong, I've done something iconic.
13:33Maria still makes her famous giant orecchiette from scratch, rolling out her fresh dough,
13:39forming into these big pasta shapes.
13:41Orecchiette means ear shape, and with these big ones you can really see why.
13:45For her sauce, Maria uses ground beef, lots of butter, fried mushrooms with a pumpkin base,
13:55making it this lovely color.
13:57There can't be that many take-out shops in the world where the chef has a Michelin star
14:01and makes carry-out tubs from her grandmother's recipes.
14:04It's pretty special stuff, and Mr. Rocco definitely approves.
14:08It's like a gift from the gods.
14:17It's such an elegant, beautiful, refined dish, like you.
14:23It's a reflection of you.
14:25You've almost made these dishes democratic for everyone.
14:31They are not street food.
14:33It is elevated dining on the street.
14:37Evviva Maria.
14:41Grazie.
14:50Our final destination is down to the southern tip of Italy,
14:53to the mountain village of Antonomina in the heart of Calabria,
14:56where it's strangely quiet in the evening.
14:58That's because the entire town is now at a sagra, or food festival.
15:13After you get tired from dancing, there's tons of food,
15:16as the locals line up for tins of pork, fresh zeppoles,
15:19or spaghetti cooked in pork fat.
15:21Wow, okay, so this is a street party.
15:26This is real Calabria.
15:28Yeah.
15:29Here to show Mr. Rocco Round is Vladimiro,
15:31a proud Calabrian and creator of the popular food blog,
15:34Calabria Food Tour.
15:35Vedi, amici o parenti fanno queste tavolate lunghe,
15:40perchè stanno tutti insieme a mangiare, a brindare,
15:44ma cibo semplice, non è nulla di gourmet.
15:48What I love is that it's the food that always brings people together.
15:52Yeah.
15:53Right? It's always the food.
15:54This is a church of pork.
15:57Church of pork.
15:58Yeah.
15:59And these are all the priests.
16:00Vladimiro takes Mr. Rocco to worship at this shrine of swine,
16:04where they're cooking enough pork to feed the entire town
16:06in this massive cauldron.
16:08The town festival honours the pig by using every part of it.
16:11Here they don't throw anything out.
16:13It's really the respect for the entire animal.
16:16You eat everything.
16:18Muso, orecchie, coda, zampe.
16:21Huh?
16:23Aricchia.
16:24Oh, this is the ear.
16:26Cheers to the ear.
16:27Cheers.
16:28Yeah, cheers.
16:31It's actually not bad.
16:33This whole big cauldron has one liter of water.
16:38The rest is all rendered down pig's fat.
16:41Take a look at how much liquid there is.
16:45That's all melted fat.
16:47And every net that is taken out is a different part of the pig.
16:52How long is it cooked in here for?
16:5410 hours.
16:5510 hours.
16:5610 hours.
16:57So this isn't for someone that is on the diet?
16:59Yeah.
17:07It's pretty good.
17:08I mean, it's cooked in a lot of pork fat.
17:11How could it not be good?
17:12They pile some more pork for Mr. Rocco in a tin
17:14and send him over to a big table to share it around.
17:17This is really poor pork.
17:20Walk me through this.
17:21What am I eating here?
17:23This is really fat boy, eh?
17:25Yes, yes.
17:26That's like the pork belly.
17:27Yeah.
17:28Yeah.
17:29OK.
17:30My doctor's going to kill me here.
17:31The doctor's asleep, no problem.
17:36I'm not into, you know, the ears as much as this beautiful white meat
17:41with wine served in plastic cups sitting next to strangers
17:46that really treat you like family.
17:48This is what it's all about.
17:50Sometimes the best way to travel is to enjoy life like a local.
17:54No water.
17:55Only, yeah, yeah.
17:56Oh, no, I understand.
17:57Acqua fa luce.
17:58Acqua...acqua creates rust.
18:01I get it, I get it.
18:02Però non beve nessuno.
18:04Come essa cosa, eh?
18:06Ah, ria signora!
18:08I just wanted to celebrate all the farmers in this table.
18:22Come get to the diet that will begin tomorrow.
18:25The next thing David has to try are the Zeppelis,
18:28which are being cooked fresh by the women of the town.
18:30Sarah, a thing of beauty!
18:34these ladies are amazing they're making it on the spot this is not like a kitchen in a restaurant
18:42this is in the piazza these zeppoles are made with dough and mixed perhaps surprisingly with
18:47mashed potatoes many of the zeppoles are cooked with anchovies stuffed inside
18:51they're then fried and come out crispy delicious and very hot
18:58now it's probably a good idea to wait till these cool down
19:02but they're so good and the little shock of anchovies here i'm getting away with a lot
19:08there's a big line up there yeah don't worry don't worry there's lots to go around i promise
19:15i'm not gonna eat them all
19:23these women have been working all night just pumping it out to keep this tradition alive
19:29it's time for mr rocco to grab even more food everyone at the festival is eating a spaghetti
19:42dish and david discovers that it's simply spaghetti mixed with the pork concoction from the cauldron
19:48and it's dripping with fat they don't do things by halves in this town
19:57this dish is tradition where they throw none of the pig out they use every single part so that melted
20:04pork fat well that's the sauce it's beyond eating dirty it's eating heavy
20:08it's actually very good i was a little concerned because there's a lot of fat in here my cholesterol
20:19is uh gonna go through the roof but is this the traditional dish here yes it's traditional here
20:24people live till they're 90 100 so this has got to be healthy maybe we hope so and have water with
20:32this to calabria after all the heavy dishes and wine i think mr rocco is reaching his breaking point
20:38water generally makes the stomach rust but after having this meal here i gotta drink water
20:47now revitalized david dances his way over to see what else there is to eat he spots the zeppeli ladies
20:53are now preparing chestnuts which are getting roasted to perfection in this interesting but rather
20:58less than traditional contraption this guy was the gentleman who came up with the idea of using an old
21:08washing machine basket to roast the chestnuts they were throwing these out and he said let's use it
21:15we'll recycle it and it'll be the perfect chestnut roaster
21:19roasted chestnuts only in calabria with a belly full of chestnuts wine and pork fat david's stepping
21:31out on the dance floor to try and help unclog those arteries i'm going on a diet that's it baby i'm done
21:38i'm done i'm done
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