00:00Did you know that a man had managed to surf a wave at a distance of 12 km?
00:05This feat was made in 2004 by the Brazilian surfer Picuruta Salazar.
00:10To give you a point of comparison, know that Central Park in New York only extends over 4 km.
00:16It was the Pororoca wave, which can only be surfed 3 days a year.
00:21Its power is such that it propels you naturally, but some passages remain particularly arduous.
00:29If you are looking for one of the most dreaded surf spots, Pipeline, in Hawaii, is an essential reference.
00:35However, this place is not for the faint of heart.
00:38Renowned for its monumental waves that can reach up to 6 meters in height,
00:42Pipeline is also known for its shallow reefs.
00:45The falls there are dreadful and can cause serious injuries, or even drag you down.
00:51The waves of Pipeline are also unpredictable.
00:54You will never really know what to expect, a bit like a box of chocolate,
00:58but replace the treats with gigantic waves capable of crushing you without hesitation.
01:03If you like to take on challenges, the famous annual competition of Bilabong Pipe Masters takes place there every winter.
01:10Just make sure to give your best and bring spare underwear.
01:15Even the most seasoned surfers tackle each wave with apprehension.
01:20This spot, comparable to a wild animal, punishes any mistake.
01:25If you think you are ready to take on one of the most demanding waves in the world, go to Pipeline.
01:30But don't say you weren't warned.
01:33For lovers of strong sensations in California, Mavericks is a must-see place.
01:38Known for its gigantic waves and its powerful currents, this spot even puts the most experienced surfers to the test.
01:44Hang on tight, because this wave won't let you down.
01:47Let's make it clear right away that Mavericks is not for beginners.
01:50This colossus can reach dizzying heights, reaching up to 18 meters.
01:55But if you are a seasoned surfer and you like adventure, Mavericks is the place you need.
02:01Located just offshore of Half Moon Bay, this spot is famous for its formidable waves.
02:06One could say that it embodies the Hulk of surf spots.
02:10Immense, bold, and ready to crush everything.
02:13But beware, Mavericks is not limited to its gigantic waves.
02:17This place also welcomes a community of passionate surfers.
02:21These men and women live for the adrenaline of taking on a wave at Mavericks, and are ready to do anything to achieve it.
02:27However, Mavericks is not just about sport.
02:31It is also a real community.
02:33The surfers who face these titanic waves support each other, forming a great family united by their common passion.
02:40So here is Mavericks, the most extreme and iconic surf spot in California.
02:45If you are ready to take on the challenge, take your board and go for it.
02:49But don't forget, facing a 18-meter-high water wall, screaming out loud is perfectly understandable.
02:55No one will judge you.
02:57Teahupoo, in Tahiti, also houses some of the most formidable waves on the planet.
03:02Scattering on a shallow reef, it creates spectacular and intense waves.
03:08The name itself, pronounced Tchopoo, means broken skull in Tahitian, which gives an idea of the danger of the place.
03:15These colossal waves, which can reach 7 meters high, break on a shallow reef, generating phenomenal power and tubes that extend for hundreds of meters.
03:25If you fall at Teahupoo, prepare to meet the underwater reef up close.
03:30With its roughness, it acts like a real cheese wrap on the skin.
03:34So be sure to bring bandages and good insurance before you go there.
03:38But for those brave in search of adrenaline, Teahupoo remains one of the most mythical surf spots in the world.
03:45However, it is sometimes wiser to opt for safer spots.
03:49If you are looking for impressive waves without risking your life, explore these places known for their safety.
03:56Let's start with Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, an ideal place for beginners as well as confirmed surfers.
04:01These regular waves and their sandy bottom guarantee a pleasant experience and the presence of lifeguards ensures maximum safety.
04:09Then there is Bondi Beach in Australia, famous for its idyllic setting and relaxed atmosphere, while offering waves perfectly adapted to surfing.
04:18With its shallow waters and its many surf schools, Waikiki offers a perfect start to sport.
04:24But if you are looking for something more exotic, go to Nosara in Costa Rica.
04:29You will find warm water, constant waves and a relaxed atmosphere.
04:34In addition, the inhabitants, known for their hospitality, will welcome you with open arms.
04:39Finally, the Muisenberg beach in South Africa is ideal.
04:43This spot offers some of the most regular waves in the world, but they are neither too big nor too dangerous.
04:49In addition, shark getters ensure your safety in the event of unauthorized visits by local carnivores.
04:56No matter how safe the place may seem, you will always need a few tips to perfect your technique and reach the upper level.
05:04Have you ever wondered why surfers apply wax on their boards?
05:08Know that this is not just a matter of aesthetics.
05:10In reality, when we tackle the waves, it is essential to avoid sliding like a mancho on the bench.
05:16This is precisely where the wax intervenes, essential to ensure adhesion.
05:21Indeed, the wax creates an anti-slip surface on the board, thus allowing it to stay in place, a bit like peanut butter on a slice of bread.
05:30Without this protective layer, you would risk sliding like a pig fattened during a fair.
05:36That said, it is important to note that all waxes are not worth it.
05:40It is advisable to choose a wax suitable for your board as well as water.
05:44A bit like the choice of an ice cream.
05:46You don't want to end up with a chocolate mint while you dream of a salted butter caramel.
05:51The next time you see a surfer meticulously waxing his board, remember that this is not a superfluous ritual or intended to appreciate the pleasant scent of some waxes.
06:02Above all, it is about avoiding an embarrassing fall in front of the spectators.
06:06That said, here is an additional tip.
06:09By applying a little wax directly under your feet, you will improve your adhesion to the board.
06:15A simple but effective gesture that will prevent these unpleasant slides worthy of a seal on a wet rock.
06:21Another precious tip is to wear earplugs.
06:25Did you know that there is a known affection under the name of the surfer's ear?
06:29Due to their prolonged exposure to cold winds and water, some surfers, especially those evolving in harsh climatic conditions, see their auditory conduct shrink.
06:39This can lead to an accumulation of water, cerumen, or even air, thus increasing the risk of infection.
06:45To prevent these discomforts, experienced surfers prefer the use of earplugs, an essential accessory, even for beginners.
06:54And if you surf in particularly cold waters without suitable hoods, another tip is to apply a thin layer of Vaseline on your ears to isolate them from the cold.
07:03A simple and effective method to keep them warm.
07:07Finally, you would be surprised to learn that some surfers include transparent fingernail varnish in their life jackets.
07:13This unexpected tool is used not for fingernails, but to temporarily repair small cracks on their boards.
07:20By applying a thin layer of varnish on a crack, you will prevent the water from infiltrating and aggravating the damage.
07:26However, experienced surfers will advise you to prefer specialized repair kits for long-lasting results.
07:33And that's it, surfer friend. Now equipped with these tips, let yourself be carried away by the waves with the assurance of a true pro.
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