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Hay's Way: Katharine visits the Calanais Stones on the Isle of Lewis
The Scotsman
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1 year ago
Katharine visits the Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, another popular spot for visitors, but one that is struggling under the pressure of tourism to the island
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Travel
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00:00
Hello, so I've made it to Callowish Stones on the Isle of Lewis. It's one of the most
00:24
popular sites that people come and visit when they're visiting the Outer Hebrides. So behind
00:29
me you can see the Standing Stones. They date back, well, about 5,000 years and back to the
00:36
Neolithic period and they actually also predate England's Stonehenge. But I mainly came here to
00:44
talk about tourism and just how the site is keeping up in the face of more and more visitors
00:51
coming to the island. And just walking around it's quite clear you can see where there's
00:56
signs of erosion, where there's been a lot of people walking around the stones.
01:00
And I was just talking to a local archaeologist who was saying that they are very concerned
01:07
about the wear and tear on the site and apparently there are talks of maybe having to close it off
01:13
just to allow some of the land to sort of regenerate and get back into a stronger position
01:17
to accommodate all these people coming to visit. Interestingly, they also told me that they used
01:23
to have heather around the stones which would have been more robust but that was removed to
01:30
make way for kind of a grassy plain to make it more accessible for people to walk up to the
01:34
stones and visit them. But it looks like that's, yeah, there's been an unintended consequence
01:40
perhaps with the land around the stones just not looking very stable. As I said, just walking
01:47
through I can see where the grass has kind of worn away quite a bit and it's muddy. So yeah,
01:54
I can understand why people are a bit concerned and want to perhaps talk about closing it off
01:58
for a period of time just to allow the land to regenerate. There's also a bit of a worry that
02:05
there's a new visitor centre being developed which means that the current one is closed.
02:10
It also means that one of the two entrances to the site will be shut over next year whilst the
02:15
building work is taking place and locals were telling me they're a bit concerned about the
02:20
congestion that will happen at the entrance that remains open because it's already heavily
02:27
congested in the summer when a lot of people come. So limiting people to just one entrance is going
02:32
to cause problems they said. So yeah, it's just interesting to come here and I've just been
02:38
walking through the Highlands over August and September where there are similar concerns about
02:43
local infrastructure and whether it's capable of supporting tourists to these more rural areas.
02:52
On the Isle of Lewis specifically, the port at Stornoway has been developed so
02:56
it's going to be able to accommodate larger cruise ships coming in which means more visitors.
03:02
And a few people I've spoken to said yes, one option is to kind of improve the infrastructure,
03:07
for example build bigger roads to accommodate these buses and camper vans. But there are also
03:12
people who say that's not what they want to happen. Mitigating the effects of tourism
03:19
needs to come from the source rather than the island having to respond and develop
03:25
which would end up changing quite a lot of why people like to come here.
03:31
That being the single track roads, the less developed areas, it's something that
03:38
gives the island its charm and makes it distinct from other places in the UK and around the world.
03:44
So yeah, I'm going to be staying on the island a little bit longer for a few more days and then
03:48
I'll head down to Harris and hopefully visit Uist as well just to carry on documenting and hearing
03:55
the important conversations that are going on in these island communities. As always you can
04:01
find my stories on the Scotsman website under a section called Hay's Way and I also have an
04:06
Instagram page where I add pictures and anecdotes of my trip which I've been doing for the last
04:12
seven months now which you can find by searching at rural underscore cat with a k.
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