00:00This is what both clients and technicians are equally afraid of.
00:04A deep crack reaching the middle of the nail bed, and on top of that, it's right on the
00:09live part of the nail plate, which means it can't be cut off in any way.
00:13When using your fingers, of course it hurts and feels unpleasant, so we use a little trick.
00:18I take a base coat, any kind, preferably a bit thinner, and I apply it to the spot where
00:24the crack happened.
00:24Next, you need to move your nail a little so the base coat seeps inside.
00:30The crack isn't fresh, there's no blood here, so there's no need to worry.
00:34I set it with a mini curing light, put it under the lamp, and now I'm removing the sticky layer
00:39to check it.
00:40The nail doesn't move anymore, which means it won't hurt the client during removal.
00:45But still, I decided not to file, but to cut instead, but it wasn't that easy.
00:50By the way, for everyone who says that gel tips don't hold well and always break, I don't
00:55know how you do it.
00:56Because even with good nippers, I couldn't cut it off properly the first time, since my
01:01tips were also reinforced with gel containing fiberglass.
01:05By the way, today we'll talk about fiberglass again, but first I'll take my favorite drill
01:09bit, the Dr. Alex machine, and I'll show you how the arm is positioned at an angle.
01:15I have the pro version, I turn it on at full power, and it shines a little from the side
01:19like this, and it's conveniently positioned.
01:22Next I take the bit and the machine.
01:24Did anyone notice the arrow?
01:26You know that I'm working at 19,000 RPM with a bit that has a blue ring, and I prefer
01:31to
01:31remove it probably, not so much from the cuticle to the free edge, but rather from right to
01:36left.
01:37Because it's exactly this way.
01:39As I'm showing right now, the material smooths out more easily.
01:45In our situation we need to remove the entire coating completely, meaning we won't leave anything
01:50on the nail, because we want to see the true structure of our nail and understand how we
01:57will need to fix all of this.
01:58Now the crack is slowly starting to show, look, it's actually even more than halfway across,
02:04and that's on one side, and on the other side it's slightly lower and smaller.
02:09I'll shorten it a bit and we'll assess the extent of the damage.
02:13By the way, the base sealed everything well, the crack still hasn't moved, because I intentionally
02:17applied the base onto the side wall, there's a small drop there.
02:21We'll remove it now, but first let's do the unboxing.
02:25I have a help kit here from Nana Nano Professional.
02:29There are three products in the set, one beige, one clear, and one in an unusual natural color.
02:36Let's take a look, and they also gave me that fiberglass.
02:39Unfortunately there are basically no instructions for use on the packaging, it only says it's
02:44for professionals, so let's figure this out together like professionals.
02:49The first product we have has a very beautiful natural camouflage shade that will blend perfectly
02:55with the nail plate.
02:57The second product is a natural silicone gel.
03:01It has a very unusual color.
03:03I understand that many people might react strangely to it now, but at the end you'll see why it
03:08has this color.
03:10People will probably say it looks like pus, so let's just go with that.
03:13It's yellowish, but that's just the natural color of the free edge.
03:17And another additional helper gel is completely transparent with just a slight pinkish tint,
03:23just a hint of pink.
03:25And it probably looks like jelly gel.
03:29As you can see it's transparent, it doesn't level out at all, so the way you apply it is
03:33exactly how it stays.
03:35It's perfect for building up corners right in the air.
03:38So, you see the brush strokes don't smooth out, the first beige option would have leveled
03:43out by now.
03:45And the second gel in a natural shade also spreads and levels out well.
03:49I cured them for a minute, now let's see if the material is hard or not, meaning whether
03:54it's a gel or a base.
03:57I applied them in a thin layer, I'm checking, and in a thin layer they're brittle.
04:02So at first they bend, and then at the end, when the tension is at its maximum, they of
04:07course break.
04:08The hardest one to break was this beige one, or rather not beige, but a yellowish shade,
04:13but I still managed.
04:15And the third option, the transparent one that just stays in place, turned out to be
04:19the most brittle.
04:21And why did they put such strange gels in the set, right, you might wonder?
04:25But I'll show you everything now, because today we're going to repair a very deep crack like
04:29this, which we actually can't cut off, because, well, it's still attached to live tissue.
04:34And by the way, these hands actually do a lot of work.
04:37My sister Liza, who as always did something to her nails, I asked her why this nail keeps
04:42breaking, she says it has something to do with the hair dryer button, basically there's
04:46pressure on it.
04:47I've already used the non-nanolac primer, and now I'm using their base coat.
04:51And I apply the base to those areas where I have cracks.
04:56And I don't apply it in a thin layer, but add a little bit of volume.
05:00I need this so that I can embed the fiberglass in that thicker layer of base.
05:06It comes in a small packet like this, and there's a lot inside.
05:09I think it'll last almost forever.
05:11If you use it only for repairs, let me show you how to cut it.
05:15You hold it like this carefully, so it doesn't scatter everywhere.
05:18I really recommend turning on the dust extractor too, because the extractor fan collects even
05:23the tiniest particles.
05:24I'm really afraid of fiberglass.
05:26Write in the comments if you also have occasional panic attacks.
05:30But still, it holds really well, of course.
05:32I even learned how to do nail extensions only with fiberglass at one point.
05:36The nails stay on really firmly, but I'm not ready to do this on a regular basis.
05:41Well, here we have a repair option for when it's really an emergency situation.
05:47I rolled out the fiberglass and then, using the same brush, I take some base and spread
05:52the fiberglass.
05:54I have it on a poly palette.
05:56It's a special kind of paper that doesn't absorb anything.
06:00Next, using an orange wood stick, I soak our fiberglass completely with the base.
06:05I got a little carried away with the process here, so I went out of frame and I apologize,
06:10sorry, but sometimes that happens.
06:12I was trying to concentrate very hard, so that none of the pieces would scatter anywhere.
06:17So I soaked everything completely and made sure there were no dry pieces left anywhere.
06:23You absolutely must not allow that to happen.
06:25If your fiberglass isn't soaked with the product base or gel, whatever you're working with,
06:31when you file it, it will all break off into tiny little pieces and you won't like the
06:35result.
06:37Well, we've already cured it and now I'm applying that strange yellow gel onto the fiberglass
06:42framework.
06:45And now, as I spread it out, you can already see that it's gradually blending in, adapting
06:51and taking on the desired natural shade.
06:55This kind of gel is really helpful in situations when a client asks you to fix or save their natural
07:02nail, but wants no one to notice, so that it looks as natural as possible.
07:08As natural as possible.
07:10Of course you can tint this gel yourself, but why bother if manufacturers have already made
07:14our lives easier and done it for us.
07:17Here, I'm showing how I filed down the fiberglass.
07:20Of course I have an extractor working, it's definitely not 100% dust free, you can't avoid
07:25that completely.
07:26It's also on the side, and then I finish everything up with a drill bit.
07:30My drill bit is from Biotech, it's a ceramic bit, probably one of my favorites.
07:36And then I perfect a finer, more detailed work with a nail file.
07:40Here I have a file with a foam base.
07:42I really love these kinds of files because they hug the nail nicely, they're very very
07:47comfortable to use when filing.
07:49Ah, I just need to shape the edge a little more.
07:52I won't even say anything about the bit, it's the baby bit.
07:55I got a tip that deliveries usually happen on Fridays.
07:59So look for them and try to grab these bits on Fridays, because honestly this is the best
08:04thing they've come up with for filing in hard to reach places from the inside and so on.
08:10And now we have our final result.
08:12The manicure hasn't been done yet, nothing else has been done, I only worked on the crack.
08:17And this is how it all looks right now, to me it looks very much like natural nails.
08:23That's all, thanks everyone, bye.
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