Watch as Alyona tackles the ultimate nail rescue! From DIY disasters to a pro gel makeover, see how she transforms a set of seriously damaged nails. Curious about the new I AM gels and real talk on nail care fails? This one's for you! Subscribe for more satisfying nail journeys and comment below—what part did you enjoy the most? #nails #makeover #beauty #nailart #transformation
👉 This channel was created in collaboration with https://www.youtube.com/@alenalavrenteva
0:00 - Introduction and Client Background
0:50 - Cause of Nail Issues Uncovered
2:17 - Assessment of Nail Condition
4:38 - Anticipating Treatment Challenges
6:33 - Introduction to Gel Products
9:27 - Application Process and Challenges
11:08 - Nail Shaping and Strengthening
14:02 - Finishing Touches and Conclusion
👉 This channel was created in collaboration with https://www.youtube.com/@alenalavrenteva
0:00 - Introduction and Client Background
0:50 - Cause of Nail Issues Uncovered
2:17 - Assessment of Nail Condition
4:38 - Anticipating Treatment Challenges
6:33 - Introduction to Gel Products
9:27 - Application Process and Challenges
11:08 - Nail Shaping and Strengthening
14:02 - Finishing Touches and Conclusion
Category
📚
LearningTranscript
00:00Hi, hi, I'm Alena Ovrentieva and today I have this model visiting me.
00:06I found her in my chat, in our salon chat, where requests come in.
00:11Anyway, the girl was asking to do something about her middle finger.
00:15But when I saw the photo from the chat, I realized that it wasn't just the middle finger that needed
00:20work.
00:21Because it looked like all the fingers here needed some kind of reconstruction, care and makeover.
00:28Anyway, during the process, as always, I naturally asked how she ended up in this situation, what she wanted to
00:33fix and so on.
00:35Basically, complaint number one was this middle finger, which grows crooked on the side and it almost looks like it's
00:42even missing a little piece.
00:44She doesn't like that it's a bit crooked and I asked at what point that happened to her.
00:50Here I'm already starting to work on it and I'll tell you that it turns out, around age 15, when
00:57she was doing her own manicure, she really wanted narrower nails.
01:01This is quite common and when people want narrower nails, sometimes they don't file them quite right and in some
01:08cases they pry at them.
01:10I've already started the prep work here and I'll leave the RPM on screen for you because this work is
01:15very delicate.
01:16Here it's only 8000-9000 RPM and a red band bit because all the nails are in a deplorable state.
01:25Basically, she wanted to make them narrower, so she kept filing, picking and trying every possible way to fix it
01:30and she picked at it so much that now she has an injury there and it's permanent.
01:36Meaning, it's completely impossible to fix, so it's going to stay like this forever now.
01:42You can think of it as a scar or a small scar, but the entire nail plate is damaged here
01:48and now the side wall will never be the same again.
01:51Well, unless surgeons invent some kind of miracle, reconstructive surgery.
01:56And as a result, of course, all of this irritated her, so she started peeking at her nails.
02:01And here I'm showing her that if the nippers stuck like that, they're dull, bad nippers.
02:06And I started showing her this because during our conversation, it turned out that she hadn't gotten a manicure in
02:12a year, yet there were traces of an amateur manicure on her nails and hands.
02:17It turned out she was doing it herself.
02:20It's a completely normal and healthy desire to tidy up your nails yourself, but the thing is that not everyone
02:26knows how to do it.
02:27And that's totally fine, after all, she's not a nail technician.
02:31It's not her line of work, so of course you might not know how to do it.
02:35Still, without the proper skills, whether she picked the wrong cuticle nippers or didn't quite get how to use them,
02:40she ended up hacking and tearing up her cuticles.
02:43And the nail folds on her thumb were all swollen too, while her nails, to my surprise, turned out to
02:49be super soft.
02:50I mean, I started pressing them and thought, that's weird.
02:54So I said, you don't get manicures?
02:56She says, well, I only bite my cuticles off.
02:59That's literally how she put it, bite off.
03:02But the nails themselves look like something's being done to them.
03:07Here, I compare my cuticles to hers, and you can clearly see that her cuticle fold is much puffier.
03:14And it's not some kind of abnormality.
03:16It's just a condition caused by the cuticle constantly being subjected to some sort of manipulation.
03:24Anyway, we figured out that her nippers are dull, and to make her nails look smoother, she constantly buffs them
03:32right on top.
03:35In other words, she's constantly grinding, filing down, and removing the top layer of her nail plate time after time.
03:42The entire nail consists of scales and layers, and she has filed down most of them.
03:49And then I realized that this means she's missing the dorsal layer, which in turn means that such nails will
03:56most likely have poor attention.
03:58So, if we apply an artificial coating here, and by the way, we will, she'll most likely get lifting.
04:04And since she had booked just a regular manicure with a coating with a technician at my salon, I understood
04:10that she'd probably get it done and then leave a bad review.
04:14Because her nails would most likely pop off, pop loose, and lift.
04:18Though you never know for sure.
04:20But there's definitely a chance, and percentage-wise it's very, very high.
04:24Because the girl picks at them, meaning she suffers from onycophagia, she hates it.
04:30She feels some anxiety about the condition of her nails.
04:34This means she'll constantly be searching for flaws in them.
04:38By the way, there's a similar line on the thumb as well.
04:41It has a crack, and there's also something like a little scar there.
04:45So, while cleaning up and prepping her nails, I explained to her that the polish probably wouldn't hold up well.
04:52And that I wouldn't recommend she get it done right now.
04:55And certainly not to a nail tech for some standard manicure service.
04:59Because in our case, it's very non-standard.
05:02As you can see, I'm doing a whole lot of work, and the nails aren't really getting drastically better.
05:07This isn't an everyday case.
05:09She's not a standard client.
05:11Anyway, I decided to do her gel overlay.
05:14And of course, I warned her that, well, it might lift.
05:18So, we agreed that if anything goes wrong, if there's any lifting, if anything bothers her,
05:23or she just doesn't like it, she'll text the administrator right away,
05:27they'll pass her message to me, and we'll meet up immediately.
05:30Because with clients like that, this is the only way to work.
05:34If a client like that comes to you as a nail tech, and you don't warn her and guide her
05:39the way I just did,
05:40you'll most likely get an unhappy review.
05:43The client will think that you gave them a bad manicure, that you're just a mediocre nail tech.
05:48And you'll be thinking that this client is somehow difficult, right, and can't keep her nails on.
05:52But in reality, this is what the situation is all about.
05:56Look, the nails are super, super soft.
05:59But now, I'm going to try to do everything possible to work with these nails properly.
06:03As for the dirt under the nails, I want to say right away that it just won't come out from
06:07under there.
06:07The girl has a vegetable garden, well, a country house, and she enjoys life there, growing things, and that's just
06:14wonderful.
06:15But there is this side effect, yes.
06:17There is dirt under the nails.
06:18The nails are porous on the inside, so there's simply no way to clean it out here.
06:23And we are not going to do anything about it.
06:26We'll just coat these nails.
06:28Just so you know, she tried using a brush too.
06:30Long story short, nothing works, so we'll just live with it.
06:34I'll be using prep fluids.
06:35In this case, I'm working with the Iris K brand.
06:38And I'm about to show you something that will blow your mind, honestly.
06:42Because I was absolutely thrilled.
06:44I couldn't wait to try these gels out.
06:47Honestly, I've already tested one nail on my husband.
06:49But now, it's on an actual client.
06:52This is a new brand called I.M.
06:55And this is a full range of products.
06:57Bases, color gels, tops, and of course, gels.
07:00But for now, I'm showing how I apply a rubber base coat.
07:04It has a really nice consistency here.
07:06Neither thick nor runny, just right in the middle.
07:09And it's perfect for a base coat.
07:10I'm showing that I'm not rubbing it in, but applying a decently, reasonably thin coat.
07:15Just a totally normal one.
07:17Neither too much nor too little.
07:19While all of this dries for 60 seconds, working with the forms awaits me.
07:25Here, I'll be using lower paper forms.
07:28I use them whenever I need to make the nails look as natural as possible.
07:32That is, if I were to apply a dual form, it would all look noticeably different.
07:36Besides, I couldn't find a form to match her curve.
07:39Plus, she mentioned that she didn't want any length at all.
07:42So, we'll be adding just tiny fractions of a millimeter.
07:45Just the tiniest bit.
07:47And here, we have a complication with this lateral fold, so I'm trimming it here.
07:52And the most challenging one will be the middle finger, because it tilts to the side.
07:57We're missing a side wall.
08:00It was really tough to cut the paper form, but I think I managed.
08:04Here, I'm also freeing the lateral fold from the ingrown area, where her nail plate starts splitting.
08:11Using an orange wood stick, I tucked the corner in there.
08:15And basically, we're ready.
08:16We're ready to show you the new I.M. gel.
08:19It's called Quick Gel.
08:20It's called that precisely because of the sound you'll hear when you open it.
08:24Sounds intriguing so far, but probably doesn't make much sense yet.
08:27Right now, I'm applying the base coat.
08:29And I'll tell you that these gels come in very interesting peel and reseal packaging.
08:34That means you peel it off, do your work, then stick it right back on, and nothing spills.
08:39Well, that is genuinely cool.
08:41It's just incredible news.
08:42When I saw it, I was wildly excited.
08:45And the very first urge I had was to quit plugging and just go work as a nail tech.
08:49Because I've wanted to work with products like these all my life.
08:52That is truly no exaggeration.
08:54It really is so cool.
08:55Because I just hate the current jars.
08:58Well, as for the gels consistency, I can say it's extremely comfortable to work with.
09:02These are next generation gels.
09:04Just the way we like it.
09:06Elastic in a thin layer.
09:07Firm in a medium layer.
09:09And very rigid in a thick layer.
09:11Overall, it's just right.
09:12And it's great that their consistency is super, super comfortable to work with.
09:16Just look at how nicely they spread.
09:19And they...
09:19Well, there's this feature.
09:21I don't know the smart scientific term for it.
09:23But basically, they don't drag out like strings.
09:26I really like that they aren't stringy.
09:28It's extremely comfortable.
09:29They also pinch with ease.
09:31These gels are considered less likely to cause a heat spike.
09:35That is, they have an average heat spike.
09:37But you won't find a gel that doesn't burn in the lamp at all.
09:41You can press a special button on the lamp that will give you half power to perform the initial cure.
09:46I recommend doing this if your client is very sensitive.
09:50And then, we had a major fail.
09:53Look, I can't remove the form, the paper template.
09:56Because its corner got glued in, poked right through and got stuck.
09:59It happens.
10:00The base layer was very thin.
10:02And I know that if I tear off the form right now, I'll ruin everything.
10:05And I'll have to redo the extension from scratch.
10:07So, I decided to build the main nail structure right over this template.
10:12This way, I will add rigidity to the free edge.
10:15In other words, I'll reinforce the nail so it's already strong.
10:18And after that, I can completely, calmly and smoothly remove the form.
10:23Let me know in the comments if you've ever had this happen too.
10:26Just like with me, you know, accidentally getting a piece of the form glued right in there.
10:31I'm sure that if you're practicing nail tech, you've done this too.
10:34Back in the day, I used to do it pretty often.
10:37But here, I was trying to make it as thin as possible.
10:41And to keep it looking natural.
10:43Anyway, it just happened that the form got stuck.
10:45It happens to the best of us.
10:47But at least it gives me the chance to show you how to fix it.
10:50Basically, I just cured it for about 5 seconds.
10:53By the way, these gels cure pretty fast.
10:56And pinch it.
10:57Now I can easily pull the form out.
10:59But a tiny piece of paper is still stuck on the side there.
11:02Look, you can see it a little bit.
11:05But that's no big deal.
11:06We'll fix it later during filing.
11:08On the middle finger, the situation is better.
11:11Here, I managed to create a super thin base layer.
11:14And I can even take off the form.
11:16You need to press it downwards.
11:18And pull it out just like this, by pressing down.
11:20Well, on the ring finger, unfortunately, I wasn't so lucky.
11:23So we're taking it off.
11:25Once again, I build a full nail structure.
11:27I use a fine brush to help place it.
11:30Look at how beautifully the gel self levels.
11:32Just absolutely masterful.
11:35Oh, by the way, yes.
11:36Take note of these paper forms.
11:38Extremely comfortable to work with.
11:39Even though they don't have a foil backing.
11:41I was very pleased.
11:43Really, so convenient.
11:45Just truly spot on.
11:46Next is the middle finger.
11:48I see that it's slanting off to the side.
11:50And I'm really missing this side wall here.
11:53Even though I thought I'd build it up.
11:54Once I take off the form, I realize it's not quite enough.
11:57So I add a bit more as a little rolled strip.
12:00Basically building up the side ridge.
12:02And so on.
12:02I flash cure it, not right in the lamp, but specifically with a small flashlight.
12:07I love doing that when I realize I don't have that split second for the client to move her hand
12:12into the lamp.
12:13It's a great technique.
12:14Definitely take note of it.
12:15And this is what our other hand looks like.
12:18Pretty rough, right?
12:19It doesn't look so great.
12:20But now we're going to do the shaping and the whole situation will be fixed.
12:24By the way, I'll remind you at the end of what the nails looked like before,
12:27so it doesn't seem like nothing changed.
12:29In fact, everything changed.
12:32And here I'm shown how I do the filing.
12:34So first I shape the side walls and then I'll adjust the whole length.
12:38That piece of our nail form is still there, but no big deal.
12:42Now I'll speed it up a bit, because it really takes too long to show me filing it all down.
12:47And here it is, that little piece of paper, which I successfully dug out from under the corner.
12:52Well, considering that, basically there's still soil under all of her nails.
12:57As a reminder, gardening is a hobby of hers.
12:59And we can't really do anything about this dirt.
13:02We can only grow it out.
13:04Of course, I told her that it would be better to do all of that with gloves on.
13:08But I think that anyone who has at least one flower bed knows what gloves do.
13:13They tear all the time.
13:14So it's impossible to protect the client from this.
13:17You just need to get your fills done on time.
13:20And believe me, nobody has ever died from dirt under their nails.
13:24It's just dirt.
13:25It's not a big deal.
13:26And the nails are already much harder.
13:29Meaning, I pinch them, of course, to test them.
13:31I try to create a straighter structure.
13:34Meaning, so they don't curve downward.
13:36So they point straight ahead.
13:38And this will give us maximum strength.
13:40Because, let me remind you, the nails are super, super thin.
13:44Very bendy.
13:45There's barely anything left of them.
13:47So we're in the danger zone.
13:49Next, we'll just seal all of this with top coat.
13:51There won't be any color.
13:52There won't be any design.
13:53We're going to disappoint everyone right now.
13:55The goal is to restore the nails and get back to nail enhancements.
13:58Because the client went a whole year without having her nails done.
14:01Anyway, let her get used to it.
14:03For the top coat, I'm also using IM.
14:05I want to draw your attention to the fact that the brushes in both the base and top coat are
14:08transparent.
14:09Well, to each their own.
14:10But for me, it's just a nice little detail.
14:13Because I...
14:13I can't explain why, but I just love a clear brush.
14:17And I know there are people among my subscribers who somehow also like it.
14:20It just seems cool.
14:22Though I have nothing against a black one either.
14:24It's just a little detail like that.
14:26The top coat goes on easily.
14:28I'm not leveling anything out.
14:30I already have a filed surface.
14:31So we won't be making any unnecessary extra moves.
14:35Our main goal is to help her grow out her nails and make sure the coat lasts.
14:39The design comes later.
14:41Besides, she doesn't really like anything too bright.
14:44She prefers more subtle options.
14:46Now, what can really help here is oil.
14:49I'm completely serious.
14:50For some reason, a lot of people overlook this.
14:53But cuticle oil is super important.
14:55Because once the skin is moisturized, take a look at our before and after result.
15:00She'll get fewer hangnails and have less of an urge to pick at them.
15:05I'm using Builder Gel from Iris K in shade number 9.
15:08Definitely take note of this one.
15:10It's a semi-sheer, super natural shade.
15:12If it weren't for the dirt, honestly, I think the result is just amazing.
15:16The fingers look neat.
15:17Now we just have to wait for them to grow out.
15:19And we'll see how the skin calms down.
15:22That's all from me.
15:23This was Alyona.
15:24Bye-bye.
15:24To be continued.
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