00:07Authenticity is claimed by everyone. Your jeans, your shirt, your socks, your coffee.
00:12We are surrounded by claims of authenticity. Even this animation is influenced by edits before it.
00:18Is this authentic? What is authenticity? What does it mean to be authentic?
00:22Oh, okay. Let me think about that. Um.
00:25As Carissa pondered the depth of the question, at the exact moment in time thousands of miles away,
00:31Peter King, an ex-professional surfer, felt compelled to ask the same question.
00:35What is authenticity? What is it? Yeah, to you. Am I authentic? Yeah.
00:42Why? Just because you like me? No. You think I'm authentic? I think I am.
00:46What is it? Describe it. Um. You're really going to have me answer this right now.
00:52You don't. You don't know. You're tripping. I can't give you a breakdown right now. I just can't do it.
00:56This caused some confusion, so we got back to risk.
01:00To just be yourself and to be proud of that, to embrace all of who you are,
01:04to know that you are made imperfectly perfect and that you are here for a purpose
01:10and to not try to be someone else.
01:13In a world where your every move is analyzed, where does genuine begin and where does it end?
01:17You see, when we are young, we are who we are. We are real.
01:22Happy, sad, a sister, a fairy. We jump around with a hose and sing the bum song.
01:27We surf and get interviewed by dad.
01:30Wow. Okay. Um. Who's your favorite surfer?
01:36Daddy.
01:36We are genuine, authentic. But when the world gets involved,
01:41our very social scrutinizing world gets involved.
01:43There's just so many different distractions and things that are trying to mold you
01:50or change you into something that you're not.
01:53Then who is an authentic Carissa Moore?
01:54Her media-trained response when asked how she feels after losing is this.
01:58Yeah, um, it is what it is and I just wasn't, I didn't make the best decisions
02:06and she surfed really well and I think I just have to go, go back and take a look at
02:11it
02:11and figure out what I need to do moving forward.
02:14When what she actually wants to say is...
02:15How do you think I feel? I feel like s***. I just lost. I'm out of the contest.
02:21These are her different smiles.
02:24And this is Riss Bored at an interview. What gives it away?
02:30Are we done?
02:31Hello, pizza.
02:33In a half hour.
02:36She refers to herself as a goofball.
02:38This is what she means.
02:42And to break this goofing around up, she likes to take naps.
02:45I love to nap. Anytime, anywhere, I can nap.
02:48I've taken 200 naps this year. Or more. No, 300 naps.
02:52There's probably only 60 days out of the year, 65 days out of the year that I haven't napped.
02:56In between naps, she does this. This is Riss in her happy place.
03:00Popular psychology refers to this as state of flow, also known colloquially as being in the zone.
03:06It is the mental state in which a person performing an activity is fully immersed
03:10in a feeling of energized focus, full involvement, and enjoyment in the process of the activity.
03:16But, don't take my word for it.
03:19Here is Chopu Virtuoso Matahi Drolay from the island of Tahiti to explain.
03:24This is my friend, you need to go from super fast to super slow.
03:31Here's Matahi going from super fast to super slow, from super fast to super slow.
03:36And then Riss decided to join in super fast to super slow.
03:42Okay, let's wrap this section up. Take it home, Matahi.
03:44C'est ça l'état de flot.
03:50Thank you, Matahi.
03:52Further exploring athlete psychology, the inner sanctum between surfer and coach is a private, safe space.
03:57A place where they look out on the ocean and whisper their strategy for success.
04:02Our crew, unaware of the privacy conduct, managed to record this rare exchange moments before the final.
04:08Here they are talking about getting chocolate ice cream after the heat.
04:12Throwing on all the toppings, nuts, raisins, caramel, marshmallows.
04:15Just throw it all on there.
04:16Yeah, a couple of scoops. Just chuck it on.
04:17Caroline disagreed.
04:19She liked sorbet and quickly insisted that they got lemon.
04:23Mitch responded, sorbet's disgusting.
04:25Eh, Caroline laughed them off.
04:26I don't like repeating stuff because it's not authentic.
04:29Okay.
04:30Okay, forget it. Let's move on.
04:31So, I mean, it does get challenging at times to, I feel like I have to constantly check in and
04:37be like,
04:38Oh, is this, does this make me feel good? Is this who I am?
04:41Um, you know, um, I have to take a second and be like, listen to my intuition and my gut.
04:48As highlighted before, we all claim authenticity.
04:51So, instead of talking further, we thought we would show you a few real authentic moments.
04:58Um, I like being interviewed by, by people I like.
05:02Mmm, questionable. Nah, I love you guys.
05:04Um, right now, we are in Hossager, France for the Roxy Pro.
05:09And that is the seventh event on tour.
05:12I think, seventh, eighth, ninth, wait.
05:13No, eighth event. Eighth event.
05:15So, we have three more to go before it's all over.
05:18No, I cannot. But I can do a funky accent like this. What do you think?
05:24What do you, what have you seen?
05:25Can we start again? Can you ask me, Jen?
05:29It's so funny, because literally, I'm doing this interview.
05:32And I'm staring in this little view, like you, Peter sits from there.
05:37And just for perspective, she's like, I'm pretty much tied to the yellow jersey right now.
05:43So, dun, dun, dun.
05:46Number one and two in the world.
05:48Super heat matchup that everyone knew was coming.
05:51And all friendships, everything left on the sand.
05:53Lakey utilizing her priority.
05:56Oh, you can tell that there's a bit of frustration there from Lakey.
06:00Carissa Moore, beautiful right-hander opening up in front of her.
06:03She's on a little magic carpet, I think, and she just looked like she had so much flow coming into
06:08it.
06:08Carissa Moore advancing into the Roxy Pro final.
06:12Come on, Lakey.
06:13Yeah, good job, Chris.
06:14I know, me too.
06:15That was hard.
06:17Good job, Chris.
06:18Good luck, good job.
06:19All right, so Rissa's in the finals.
06:21What?
06:22What, what?
06:23And it's all just happy, good, good, lucky thoughts from here on out.
06:28And hopefully she can get barreled on the inside and call it a day.
06:35Even if she's far off of our spot?
06:37Yeah.
06:38I'd stick with her.
06:39Okay.
06:40If you see something really consistent where you are and there's a set coming, whatever,
06:44but don't give her any...
06:45Okay.
06:46I'll give her any opportunities.
06:52Needs around about an eight-point ride to get herself back into the heat.
06:54Driving into this left-hand wall, going for the throw-tail reverse.
06:59Just loses it just a little bit.
07:01Hold the rail on the backhand.
07:03Carissa Moore turning this final into a shootout of her own.
07:33Good job, Amy.
08:07Hey.
08:08That was, that was amazing.
08:10That was so sick.
08:12Thanks, Dad.
08:13I'm so happy.
08:14I'm so proud of you right now.
08:15That was, I cannot believe you got those two barrels so, so back-to-back like that.
08:21That was incredible.
08:22Thanks so much.
08:23I just felt so good to get barreled.
08:26That was, it was beautiful.
08:28It was really amazing.
08:29Thanks, Dad.
08:30I can't wait to see you.
08:31Thanks for staying up to watch.
08:33That was sick.
08:34I'm so proud of you.
08:35I love you.
08:38All right, bye.
08:39Ha, Gage, Gage texted.
08:41Dude, it was the coolest vision when Malvo and Luke brings me up.
08:45Just the crowd was the sickest crowd I've ever seen.
08:49Girls and stuff was, thank you, Joe.
08:52What's up?
08:53Thanks.
08:55Can you tell me congrats?
08:57All right, congrats, Gage.
08:58Oh, you too.
09:00Thanks so much.
09:00Did you have a meet?
09:01Yeah.
09:02Congratulations.
09:03Congratulations to you, too.
09:04Oh, so, so cute.
09:05That was a really great win.
09:07That was awesome.
09:08Oh, it was so cool.
09:09I've actually never really spent time surfing La Grave, so I didn't have any expectations.
09:13And when I got those two, I was just like, I was elated.
09:16And to share it in front of the crowd that was literally like five feet from me was so cool.
09:20One more time for Carissa Moore, your champion.
09:23Now for the third time here at the Los Angeles.
09:26We get you out in a party, the mod.
09:48Sing something.
09:50No.
09:52I'm not just going to break out of song right now.
09:55This is so weird.
09:56I can't think, can you come back to that one?
09:59Oh, I can't.
10:00I can't.
10:03I've been awake for a while now.
10:07You got me feeling like a child now.
10:11Every time I see your bubbly face, I get the tingles in a silly place.
10:29I'm having you nuances with the dagegen.
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