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On this episode of For a Living, we meet Pastry Chef Daphane DeLone, who is leading the dessert and bread programs at West Hollywood’s Connie & Ted’s. Daphne went to school for psychology, but when a good friend pointed out to Daphane how much she loves cooking and that she should try culinary school, Daphne went in that direction and never looked back. Now she is the head pastry chef at Connie & Ted’s, a large, upscale seafood restaurant. Every single roll, bun, bread, ice cream, and dessert is made in-house by Daphane and her sous chef.

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For a Living documents extraordinary women thriving within unique careers. From the salary they earn to the most unexpected task they perform at work, we learn the ins and outs of life for these women dominating in their field.

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Transcript
00:00Everything here is baked fresh in-house.
00:06What it feels like to be in charge of the kitchen
00:09is to never truly be in charge.
00:12You have a boss, you have other people, you also have guests.
00:15It's like, I like this dessert more, but they like this one,
00:18so I guess I'll keep making that one.
00:25That's what it's like being the boss in the kitchen.
00:29My name is Daphne DeLon, and I'm a pastry chef in Los Angeles for a living.
00:35I arrive at 8 a.m., and I basically just come in,
00:41take stock of what we have, what we don't have,
00:43figure out my production for the day.
00:45Working in this industry, we always work weekends,
00:48so my weekends are for myself Monday and Tuesday,
00:51so that's when I would get my rest and go out, I guess.
00:55So this is pretty much my pastry quarters.
00:57This is our own little corner.
00:59We have our ovens, our proofer, our speed wrap,
01:02where we store everything that's going to be baked
01:03or have been baked and is cooling.
01:06This is my production list.
01:07It kind of guides me along with what we're doing for the day.
01:10Here's the little boy.
01:11We have all of our desserts ready to be plated.
01:15These are my recipe books, and today we're making the whoopie pie,
01:19so I'm just going to find that recipe.
01:21I was going to school for psychology,
01:23and a college best friend of mine just like,
01:27well, why don't you just go to culinary school?
01:29You like cooking.
01:30I'm like, I do? I guess I do.
01:32And so that was something that encouraged me to look into that.
01:35Just like, I'll see what happens, and then the rest is history.
01:38My family is Southern, so we do a lot of cooking just in general.
01:42I did do a lot of baking growing up.
01:44My mom bought me an Easy Bake Oven, so that was my intro to baking.
01:47And I do have a great aunt that I would spend a lot of time in the kitchen with
01:51just because she spent a lot of her time cooking and teaching us things just by proxy.
01:55She's pretty much the matriarch of our family,
01:58and so just naturally being around her, you gain an interest.
02:01A lot of times being in this industry, I don't see a lot of people that look like me.
02:05A lot of times I'm the only black person, let alone black woman in this space.
02:09Some challenges that I face are just having to be assertive,
02:13and like having to tiptoe around being assertive
02:15because people are always going to perceive you as having an attitude or being too sassy.
02:19It's just like, no, I don't have an attitude.
02:21I'm just a boss, and this is the way that things need to go,
02:24or this is the way that you need to listen to me.
02:26In this industry, being a woman is also hard because there are a lot of men.
02:30It's basically ran by men. There are a lot of men around you.
02:32In my history of being in this industry,
02:35I've worked in both bakeries and kitchens. I've gone back and forth.
02:38In bakeries, there are a lot of women,
02:40and so it's definitely more, like, balanced in that way,
02:44but in kitchens, there's definitely more of, like, men and men energy.
02:50Welcome back, Martha.
02:52So every day, me and Martha come in in the mornings and get everything started.
02:56She'll get started on the bread, and I'll get started on pastry production.
02:59We'll help each other out when we need it.
03:02Also, we'll decide what music we're going to play for the day.
03:05She likes rock.
03:06No.
03:07And Johnny Cash.
03:08I like Beyonce.
03:09I feel weird saying, like, I love Beyonce.
03:13Here at Connie and Tess, I've been working for about two years.
03:15To get the job, I actually had to do a tasting with the owners,
03:19Chef Michael and Donato.
03:21In the tasting, I had to make a few different desserts
03:23to kind of showcase my talents and my ability to work in a kitchen,
03:26and the kitchen was brand new to me, so that was a bit of a challenge.
03:29I made a orange cheesecake with a kumquat topping.
03:33I made my butterscotch ice cream, which is still on the menu, so I adore that.
03:37A typical path and career for baking and pastry,
03:40and just in kitchens in general, will probably be, like, entry level,
03:42which you come in and you do production,
03:45probably earn about minimum wage, whatever that may be, in respective areas.
03:48And then you just kind of, like, keep your head down, work hard,
03:52learn things, take direction well, and work well with others,
03:56and then you work yourself into a salary position.
03:58Starting out of this industry, I think you can expect to make
04:01somewhere around minimum wage.
04:04I've been in this field for over 10 years, so I am now at a salary position.
04:09Here at Connie and Ted's, I make about $80,000.
04:12In kitchen, you can do this job with or without culinary school.
04:15Of course, with some proper training, you do put yourself at a certain level
04:19to be taken a little bit more seriously.
04:21But honestly, you can interim to production, and if you work hard enough,
04:25you can definitely progress up to a higher position.
04:28I personally went to culinary school because I was just honing in on my own interests
04:33and seeing what I wanted to do.
04:35Everything doesn't happen overnight.
04:37You actually have to be patient, work on your craft, work on it at home.
04:41A lot of my knowledge is self-taught and practiced.
04:44I am also proud of my trajectory in that I get to, like, run my own program here
04:49at Connie and Ted's.
04:50I decide what goes on the menu.
04:52So now I'm going to show you how I make our sweet potato hulby pie.
04:57All right, we are doing 255 grams of butter.
05:02You have to be very precise in baking or else your stuff will come out pretty messed up.
05:07For granulated sugar, I need 225 grams of sugar.
05:13It's nice to have two different types of sugar.
05:15It just puts a little bit more depth into the recipe.
05:19All right, now we're going to just cream our butter and sugar until it's nice and fluffy.
05:26Now I'm going to crack my eggs.
05:29Three teaspoons of vanilla.
05:32Vanilla is very expensive, so a gallon costs, like, 300 bucks.
05:37When my butter and sugar is ready, I'm going to add in the eggs.
05:41Wait till they get nice and emulsify it in.
05:45All right, at this point, we're going to add in our pureed sweet potatoes.
05:49We do get these in fresh, so we just bake them off really nice
05:52and then puree them in a food processor.
05:55400 grams.
05:57Three quarters of heavy cream.
06:00We have all of our spices here.
06:02Some cinnamon, some ginger, some nutmeg, salt,
06:06then a little leavening, bacon powder, baking soda.
06:08And then once it's mostly starting to come together, you'll add in milwets.
06:13The pan's been a little messy. It's all right.
06:16The batter is all done.
06:18Now we scoop.
06:20This is a portion scooper.
06:22We use it for ice cream.
06:23We use it for cookies.
06:24We use it for whoopie pies.
06:26Of course, these will expand in the oven,
06:28so you're going to make sure you don't put them too close together.
06:30But mostly, they should just be going a little bit wide and up.
06:36And I'll set my timer.
06:38Six minutes.
06:40I would make this sweet potato spice cake a lot for my family
06:43and for family events.
06:45And, like, for my aunt, she likes it a lot, too.
06:47So, basically, I took that recipe and evolved it into, like,
06:50a whoopie pie recipe for the restaurant.
06:54A lot of times, if this is, like, only a few more seconds,
06:57I'll wait right here.
06:59Beautiful whoopie pies.
07:00Kind of look like cookies, but they're just a lot more soft.
07:02So, for our whoopie pies, we have our cream cheese, buttercream here, which is our filling.
07:09Now that they've cooled down to room temperature, we can add our buttercream.
07:13So, basically, for service, how we would do, check a little Connie and Ted's paper, wrap it around.
07:21And then I want a plate just like that.
07:23And here's our spicy potato whoopie pie recipe.
07:27I feel especially proud of myself when I think about how far I've come.
07:32Because actually being able to support myself full-time with my job
07:35and actually doing something for a living that I love and I have a passion for.
07:39Oftentimes, when I come out, they ask for the pastry chef.
07:41They're like, oh, that dessert was so good.
07:42Can I speak to the shepherd?
07:43Can they come out?
07:44And I come out, they're like, oh, wow.
07:45Especially if it's, like, someone who does look like me.
07:47If it's a black person, they're very proud.
07:49And they're just, like, so surprised and so proud of me.
07:52I almost feel like I just made, like, a new family member in that moment.
07:54And I do know that representation matters.
07:56So, I'm very happy to be representation for all of my little black girls growing up.
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