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00:00Welcome to Essence Fashion House. I am your moderator today for the day's first panel
00:11discussion on black and luxury. I'm Marjan Carlos. I'm a journalist, editor, and host of Your Favorite
00:19Auntie show. And I'm joined by two fashion mavens, which I'm really excited to get into this
00:26conversation with. We have Telsha Anderson, who is the founder and owner of TA, a luxury retailer in
00:33the meatpacking industry here in New York City. And of course, stylist and fashion designer of Aliette,
00:39Jason Rembert. And these two have a lot to say and have really added to the conversation around
00:47black luxury through their careers and their impact. So let's get into it, shall we? Let's do it. Let's
00:56do it. So first off, I want to know how you guys define luxury as black creatives. What does that
01:05mean to you? What does that represent? Because it's not always about product or labels, but it can be
01:10more of a sense or a lifestyle. So either one of you can take that question first.
01:16What's up, guys? How you guys doing today? For me, luxury right now, like that idea of luxury to me
01:27has changed. Like, you know, when I first came into this industry, luxury was defined by the
01:32fabrications and, you know, the legacy of the brand and what stores they were in and who was wearing it.
01:39And I feel like it was more about clout and rather rather about now, I feel like luxury, especially
01:46for us as black people, is defined by having that autonomy over your brand, over your the directive
01:55of where you want to go, the stories that you're telling. And, you know, I'm grateful to be able to
02:02tell our stories and, you know, to uplift us in the way and work with other creators and designers and
02:12work with, as well, other talent who are, you know, unapologetically proud of us. Like, that's a great
02:21feeling to me, you know, to be able to share those opportunities and share those platforms with
02:27with the talent and the other creatives. To me, that's luxury. You know, that I'm able to say,
02:35nah, that don't feel right. This is what feels right. And be okay with not getting the commercial
02:43success, but getting the success that is me and for me. And being able to have that control over
02:52yourself and your career and over your brand, to me, is the true luxury.
02:58Absolutely.
02:59That was great. So piggybacking off that, for me, luxury is an outlook towards lifestyle and
03:07towards living. And that's articulated from designers or from seamstress or anyone involved
03:14behind the scenes through the textures, through the shapes, and how that's expressed through their
03:19perspective. So I've, and I've seen that a lot with the contemporary brands that we carry in store.
03:26They all have a renewed outlook towards luxury living. They all have a take on what they deem
03:32luxury to be. And that can be having a shirt with its back completely out or adding a new type of layer
03:39to a turtleneck or however they may see that. And I see that a lot through the black designers we carry
03:46at the store as well. They show up with ideas that are far beyond anything I can think. And I think
03:53their take on luxury is the most beautiful thing.
03:57Right. I like what you guys have both said here. It's more of a femoral and, you know, a feeling and
04:03a sense of control and power. And I think that's really, really strong narrative. I would also say that,
04:11like, you know, black and luxury or black luxury is not a new thing. You know, this, we've been in this game
04:19for a minute. We had Eunice Johnson at the couture shows. We have little Kim as like the muse to like
04:24every designer that ever mattered. And now we have Beyonce and Tiffany's ads. You know, like we, this is,
04:31this is like, we've been, we're new, we're true to this. We're not new to this. So, but I have noticed that there's been a lot of
04:37recognition of us in this space recently. And, um, that's picked up and that's new. And I'd love to know what your
04:44thoughts are on that and what you think inspired that.
04:48I don't think we need it. Like, I honestly don't feel like, uh, the recognition is needed from anyone other than us.
04:57Like, I feel like a lot of times, you know, it was like this, this, this acceptance from the powers that be,
05:05but the powers that be don't have as much power anymore. Now, now that the rock stars of the world
05:14are rappers. Now that the, the most, the, the most talented athletes in the world are black.
05:21Like, you know, the, the biggest pop stars are black. Like, you know, it's, I don't think we need
05:28that acceptance anymore. Like, you know, and it's enough of us to, to support one another. And I feel
05:35like if we get to a point of saying like, yo, I, I don't need this validation from a white brand to put
05:44in my store, or I don't need this validation to put my black client in this huge white brand or this
05:52huge European brand to make them the fashion star that they are. Like we, we, we can do that with us.
05:58Right. Like we can support us and we don't have to just support us at the BT awards or at the Source
06:03awards or at Soul Train awards or any other, or, or just for Essence magazine. Like when our clients
06:09are also shooting the Vos of the world or the W's or, or even doing the Emmys or Oscars or any of those,
06:17those events, like we can legit put our clients in us and we're enough. Like there's so many
06:25talented designers who are, who makes fashion interesting. It's like to me, the New York
06:32Fashion Week, the black designers is the ones I want to go to. Period. Like they, they make it
06:39interesting. Like, you know, they make it fun. They make it unique. They, they have a voice. They
06:43have a point of view. And if we take back that power of the validation or the recognition and be
06:53okay with us supporting us and the community, I think we would go further. I agree. I agree a hundred
07:03percent. And the recognition that we are getting from white spaces. I hope that that continues far beyond
07:132021. And I hope that we continue to, um, show up as we've always been doing in whatever space
07:21that may be. Yeah. Yeah. I think the gatekeeping has to stop. And I think that your, both of your
07:27careers are really great examples of that, um, getting beyond the gatekeeping and to tell shit to
07:33you, um, with developing your store, uh, which you guys should all check out and lower, um, lower
07:40of Manhattan. Um, it's beautiful. It's a beautiful collection of incredible designers. How do you stay
07:47true to yourself and, and, um, your intentions when you pull designers and pull brands and, um, like you
07:54were saying before, speaking to someone who has a point of view? Um, that's a great question. I think
07:58for me, I have to keep blinders on. Um, and that's when I'm sourcing. That's when I'm looking for a new
08:05brand. And when I'm looking for that brand, that gives me a sense of discovery that I haven't seen.
08:11Like we specifically carry brands that are not in the U S or are not in current stores in the U S.
08:17And if they are, it's because they're a brand that I have just loved forever. And I can't wait to have
08:23them. But, um, I think staying true to how I buy is going for pieces that would excite me or would excite
08:31my mother or would excite a future customer and trying not to be swayed by other department stores
08:37and what they're doing. And I think that is why a lot of some of our favorite boutiques just are no
08:43longer because they went the route of caring. Oh, well, if X is carrying them, then I have to,
08:49to get that same client base. And that's not necessarily the case at all. Like being an anomaly
08:54and having a store that stands out in the area of which I'm in and carrying brands like
08:59Otterlinger or Aja that people just do not know is incredible. Like the idea of discovery is what I
09:07go for. And if I'm not discovering it, hopefully someone else is and they can let me know, but
09:13it's all about what's new and what's up and coming. I love that. Are you just like reading a bunch of
09:18fashion magazines all the time or like on Instagram and just like, yeah, I stalk probably all of you in
09:24this room. No, I go for Instagram, Tumblr, Pinterest. A lot of influencers as well will be gifted by a lot of
09:35brands. And that's also a source that I tap into looking to see who's because if you're new, you do gift
09:41and you try to get your brand out there through people who have quote unquote, a following. So I go for that as
09:48well. But I'm in the depths of Instagram. Like I can probably tell you your 2017 posts and you're
09:54like, what? But that's just, that's me. That's how we do it. It's rabbit holes, rabbit holes. I get it.
10:00I totally, totally get it. Jason, I'm assuming with your line of work, you're also down a lot of rabbit
10:05holes, just like sourcing. You're referential God. Like the first time we had a conversation, you were
10:11pulling references that were taking me back. You know, how does your work as a stylist, being super
10:18referential and impact your work as a designer? That's a great question. Um, I think, uh, my work as a
10:29stylist, um, first of all, I'm a fan of fashion, like, you know, and I'm a fan of like so many designers. And I
10:38think, uh, I'm so happy to first have started as a designer, because now, um, number one,
10:48I understand craftsmanship. And it's, it's, it's hard. It's hard. I tell my stylist friends all the
10:55time, like, you know, especially in our community, you know, with younger designers, it's hard for to
11:02expect the quality of a Dior from them if they never even held the quality of a Dior garment. And so it's our
11:11job to, to communicate and to nurture and to mentor them to get to a place of, of great quality and great
11:20craftsmanship. And being a stylist and being able to hold these garments and to, um, you know, see
11:29how these creative directors have designed and how they elevated and how they evolved throughout their
11:36career for me has gave me, uh, a more understanding for who I wanted to be as a designer. And I think,
11:46uh, references for a styling is, is a great thing. And it's, um, it's, it's something that we use on
11:55like video, we use day-to-day life, we use on carpets, we use maybe an editorial, but as a designer,
12:05I feel like, uh, you have to be kind of a little bit more conscious about, you know, things being
12:11a reference of something because you could easily be called out on like diet product.
12:17Like, so it's like, you know, it, things have to just be like a little bit more, um,
12:25respected and, and not taking things from things and just like making it your own and being, being
12:31creative. So I kinda, I don't, I don't really look when, when I'm thinking about design, I don't really
12:40look at other stuff as much. Like, you know, I read a lot or, uh, I would look more at like art or, um,
12:50more about like, I read, uh, I learn more about, uh, women who I'm inspired by. So who inspires you?
13:00To be honest, I mean, so many, but the number one is, is who, who's named after is my mother.
13:09Like, you know, like, you know, like, you know, what she, who she was. Like, I remember this is
13:1310 years since she passed away. And I remember going to her funeral and seeing like 500 people
13:21there and every single person had the same thing to say about her. And so I walk with that every day.
13:27Like, you know, I'm trying to get to a place of
13:30where she's as proud as I am of her.
13:36Mm. Mm. Mm. Mm. I love that.
13:39Mm. I love that.
13:42And I love that, you know, when you are in this industry, you're bringing along so many things
13:47with you. You're bringing along your family, you're bringing along your ancestors, you're bringing
13:50along your story. Um, it's not just, I don't know, it's not just glitz glam. It's, it's, it gets,
13:57it gets really deep. Um, and I'm curious to know, as you guys have started in this industry and,
14:03you know, you as a designer, you as a shop owner, what challenges have you guys faced
14:07in this space that you've been able to, able to confront and like hopefully overcome or are
14:13overcoming? You know, I think it's an ongoing work in progress. I wouldn't say it's, you know,
14:20it's an, it's an, um, it's still a challenge. Um, so many, uh, but I think the biggest,
14:29because I did open the store during COVID, that was not the plan. Um, I did open when I was 27.
14:36So there's that, or really 26. I think the biggest thing for me has been fighting to stay in this space
14:44that I'm in because I came into the game. I was in social before I was in PR before I went to school
14:51for retail management. I was in grad school while I was opening the store, but I didn't have the
14:56quote unquote fashion buyer experience. So I think it's when you, I didn't really get a seat at the
15:04table. I kind of like built the room and was like, who's going to come in? Um, thanks. So I think for me,
15:12it's just being able to fight for the space that I'm in and that's with partnerships, that's with
15:17getting brands in the store and kind of always, always having to explain why I'm here, how I'm here.
15:23And I think that's doubled when you're a black woman and you're a young black woman. Um, and people
15:29look to take, you know, advantage of that when they can, or they try to. Um, and so all from that,
15:36I've learned to surround myself with beautiful people that will fight for me in the moments that I
15:41can't fight for myself because you do also have to show up and be, you know, a certain,
15:47even when you are being taken advantage of. So I know just fighting for that space and continuing to
15:53do so. Well, you're doing a great job at it. Um, I'm going to be, I'm going to be completely honest.
16:03It's money. Like, you know, money, money is the big thing. Like, you know, uh, there is not proper
16:10funding and support for especially young designers and then young black designers on top of that. Like
16:19there's, there's, there's a lack of support. And I tell with, especially with us, like I tell my team,
16:28I'm fine with supporting black designers on messenger costs or on FedEx and even tailoring,
16:37like, you know, for certain carpets, because I know on my side, even at this point in my career,
16:44while yet the budget is me, there's, there's, there's no, there's no backer there. There's no,
16:52no one who's paying for that Uber or that messenger or that, that sample, or if this person wants to
16:58double of it tomorrow, like I'm, I'm covering the cost for everything, but I also have what I do in
17:06my career as a stylist to support it. A lot of these designers don't have nothing. Like, you know,
17:12they have the dream and they have the creativity and they have the work ethic. So I feel like I do my
17:18part, but when I get that opportunity to pay for their messenger or like, I remember CFDA awards went
17:28when Issa wore, when she hosted and she wore all black designers, they paid me,
17:37let's say $5, like, right. They paid me $5. It cost me $10 to make all those designers work.
17:45So I came out double out of my own pocket to make, so she could wear all black designers.
17:51And I, I hope that there's more of that. I hope that there's more of, of us who are,
18:00who are, who are supporting us in those ways where it's like taking out the, the dollar out of our
18:06pocket or the, the thousand dollars out of our pocket to make that person's dream come true.
18:13Right. Yeah.
18:14Because if we do that, hopefully it's a, hopefully that person does that for someone else.
18:20Yeah. No, absolutely. I, I was, I, that was one of my last questions to you guys was about equity and
18:26like how we can own more of this space, you know? And I think that's a really good solution is just
18:31like, you know, we might have to just put our money twice through until she's like, girl,
18:36and you're like, I'm a, I'm a living, I'm a living example.
18:39Yeah. Cause he's right. There's not a lot of funding, um, that circulates within the black
18:44community and there are not a lot of loans or grants that are given to us. And when those
18:53alerts, we get our emails, get a $10,000 grant. Like you're up against everybody else. Um,
19:00and it's a million of deserving people out there that want the same 10 K I might want. So
19:05I think, yes, put your dollars into the community, um, as best as you can. And sometimes support also
19:15shows up far beyond monetary value. Sometimes it's a repost or a reshare or a tag or something as
19:22small as that. And then someone maybe with those funds that you might not have discovers it, sees
19:28it, goes, shops it, or goes and supports it or buys it. And then it's like, oh, well, I couldn't get
19:33the $5 from them, but I got the $5 from them. And when X person has $5, hopefully they'll come back
19:40to me. And I think that's like what we can do more of when it comes to all monetary circulation.
19:46I hear that.
19:47Um, I agree. I mean, we got, we got to celebrate, celebrate each other wins. Like,
19:52you know, to, to be honest, like I look at, I look at like Atlanta rappers,
20:00every single person, when that person drops a single, when that person drops an album,
20:05every Atlanta rapper reposts it. They post it on their Instagram feed. They post on their Instagram
20:10story. Like they support one another. And I feel like in our community, we just need to support one
20:17another. Like, you know, and I try, I try to do that a lot more. Like, you know, I try, I try to
20:23do monetary, but if, if my friend posted some fire styling, I'm reposting it. Like if, like, if,
20:32if, if another friend, like, like design something crazy or won an award or won a grant, I'm, I'm reposting
20:40it. Like your, your win is our win. Like, you know, so I think, I just think it needs to be more,
20:51more of that. That's how we grow. Like, you know, we, we have to grow together and, you know,
20:56and I'm so happy. It was, it was like, when I first came into this industry and Marjorie, I'm sure
21:02for you as well, so many people were okay with being the only one. And now it's so beautiful to see,
21:10like, like the community that, that was fostered through the past few years and just to see how
21:19many of us are in those rooms. And it's because we built the new room and it's because we built the
21:25new table and it's because we, we, we kicked down and burned down all those bridges that never ever
21:31empowered us. So it's, it's really dope to just even be on a stage with you guys and to even be able
21:39to talk about black luxury because that recognition that we spoke about earlier of it always being
21:48black luxury. We're not new to this. We're true to this, right? Black luxury always existed,
21:55but it's like, and now it's time for us to take it back and to support us.
22:02I love that. I love that about the younger generation and to your point, it's like building
22:07that community and I, and, and getting rid of the gatekeeping and the only one and all that kind
22:12of stuff and just making it more expansive and opening it up. Um, guys, that's all time we have,
22:19but this has been a wonderful, wonderful conversation. Um, I, I thank you guys, my panelists,
22:24uh, for joining me here today and I appreciate the audience for listening and engaging and, um,
22:31there's more essence fashion house to come. Yes, sir. Yes. Follow these two and their journey
22:37and support them. Thank you. Thank you guys.
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