- 20 hours ago
Top designers Telsha Anderson and Jason Rembert discuss the highs and lows of being Black and at the top of the game in the luxury fashion space.
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00:00Welcome to Essence Fashion House. I am your moderator today for the day's first panel
00:11discussion on black and luxury. I'm Marjan Carlos. I'm a journalist, editor, and host of your
00:19favorite auntie show, and I'm joined by two fashion mavens, which I'm really excited to
00:26get into this conversation with. We have Telsha Anderson, who is the founder and owner of TA,
00:31a luxury retailer in the meatpacking industry here in New York City, and of course, stylist
00:37and fashion designer of Aliette, Jason Rembert, and these two have a lot to say and have really
00:45added to the conversation around black luxury through their careers and their impacts. So
00:52let's get into it, shall we? Let's do it. Let's do it. So first off, I want to know how you guys define
01:01luxury as black creatives. What does that mean to you? What does that represent? Because it's not
01:08always about product or labels, but it can be more of a sense or a lifestyle. So either one of you can
01:15take that question first. What's up, guys? How are you guys doing today? For me, luxury right now,
01:25like that idea of luxury to me has changed. Like, you know, when I first came into this industry,
01:30luxury was defined by the fabrications and, you know, the legacy of the brand and what stores they
01:38went in and who was wearing it. And I feel like it was more about clout and rather about now, I feel
01:45like luxury, especially for us as black people, is defined by having that autonomy over your brand,
01:52over the directive of where you want to go, the stories that you're telling. And, you know,
02:00I'm grateful to be able to tell our stories and, you know, to uplift us in the way and work with
02:08other creators and designers and work with, as well, other talent who are, you know, unapologetically
02:17proud of us. Like, that's a great feeling to me, you know, to be able to share those opportunities
02:26and share those platforms with the talent and the other creatives. To me, that's luxury. You know,
02:33that I'm able to say, nah, that don't feel right. This is what feels right. And be okay with not
02:41getting the commercial success, but getting the success that is me and for me. And being able to
02:51have that control over yourself and your career and over your brand, to me, is the true luxury.
02:58Absolutely.
02:59That was great. So piggybacking off that, for me, luxury is an outlook towards lifestyle and
03:07towards living. And that's articulated from designers or from seamstress or anyone involved
03:14behind the scenes through the textures, through the shapes, and how that's expressed through their
03:19perspective. So I've, and I've seen that a lot with the contemporary brands that we carry in store.
03:26They all have a renewed outlook towards luxury living. They all have a take on what they deem luxury
03:32to be. And that can be having a shirt with its back completely out or adding a new type of layer to
03:39a turtleneck or however they may see that. And I see that a lot through the black designers we carry
03:46at the store as well. They show up with ideas that are far beyond anything I can think. And I think
03:53their take on luxury is the most beautiful thing.
03:57Right. I like what you guys have both said here. It's more of a femoral and, you know, a feeling and a
04:04sense of control and power. And I think that's really, really strong narrative. I would also say that,
04:11like, you know, black and luxury or black luxury, it's not a new thing. You know, this, we've been in
04:18this game for a minute. We had Eunice Johnson at the couture shows. We have little Kim as like the
04:23muse to like every designer that ever mattered. And now we have Beyonce and Tiffany's ads. You know,
04:30like this is like, we've been, we're new, we're true to this. We're not new to this. So, but I have
04:36noticed that there's been a lot of recognition of us in this space recently. And that's picked up and
04:42that's new. And I'd love to know what your thoughts are on that and what you think inspired that.
04:48I don't think we need it. Like, I honestly don't feel like the recognition is needed from anyone other
04:56than us. Like, I feel like a lot of times, you know, it was like this, this, this acceptance from
05:03the powers that be, but the powers that be don't have as much power anymore. Now, now that the rock
05:13stars of the world are rappers. Now that the, the most, the, the most talented athletes in the world
05:20are black, like, you know, the, the biggest pop stars are black, like, you know, it's, I don't
05:27think we need that acceptance anymore. Like, you know, and it's enough of us to, to support one
05:34another. And I feel like if we get to a point of saying like, yo, I, I don't need this validation
05:41from a white brand to put in my store, or I don't need this validation to put my black client in this
05:50huge white brand or this huge European brand to make them the fashion star that they are.
05:56Like we, we, we can do that with us. Right. Like we can support us and we don't have to just
06:00support us at the BT awards or at the source awards or at So Train awards or any other, or,
06:06or just for Essence magazine. Like when our clients are also shooting the Vogue's of the world or the W's
06:13or, or even doing the Emmys or Oscars or any of those, those events, like we can legit
06:20put our clients in us and we're enough. Like there's so many talented designers who are,
06:29who makes fashion interesting. It's like to me, the New York fashion week, the black designers
06:34is the ones I want to go to. Period. Like they, they make it interesting. Like, you know,
06:40they make it fun. They make it unique. They, they have a voice, they have a point of view.
06:44And if we take back that power of the validation or the recognition and be okay with
06:54us supporting us and the community, I think we would go further.
07:02I agree. I agree a hundred percent. And the recognition that we are getting from white spaces,
07:09I hope that that continues far beyond 2021. And I hope that we continue to show up as we've
07:19always been doing in whatever space that may be. Yeah. Yeah. I think the gatekeeping has to stop.
07:25And I think that your, both of your careers are really great examples of that, getting beyond
07:31the gatekeeping and to tell shit to you with developing your store, which you guys should all
07:38check out in lower, lower Manhattan. Um, it's beautiful. It's a beautiful collection of incredible
07:45designers. How do you stay true to yourself and your intentions when you pull designers and pull
07:51brands? And, um, like you were saying before, speaking to someone who has a point of view.
07:57Um, that's a great question. I think for me, I have to keep blinders on. Um, and that's when I'm sourcing.
08:03That's when I'm looking for a new brand. And when I'm looking for that brand, that gives me a sense
08:09of discovery that I haven't seen. Like we specifically carry brands that are not in the U S or
08:15are not in current stores in the U S. And if they are, it's because they're a brand that I have just
08:21loved forever and I can't wait to have them. But, um, I think staying true to how I buy is going for
08:28pieces that would excite me or would excite my mother or would excite a future customer and trying
08:35not to be swayed by other department stores and what they're doing. And I think that is why a lot
08:41of some of our favorite boutiques just are no longer because they went the route of caring. Oh,
08:46well, if X is carrying them, then I have to, too, to get that same client base. And that's not
08:51necessarily the case at all. Like being an anomaly and having a store that stands out in the area of
08:56which I'm in and carrying brands like Otterlinger or Aja that people just do not know is
09:03incredible. Like the idea of discovery is what I go for. And if I'm not discovering it, hopefully
09:10someone else is and they can let me know, but it's all about what's new and what's up and coming.
09:16I love that. Are you just like reading a bunch of fashion magazines all the time or like on Instagram
09:21and just like, yeah, I stock probably all of you in this room. No, I go for Instagram, Tumblr,
09:29Pinterest. A lot of influencers as well will be gifted by a lot of brands. And that's also a source
09:37that I tap into looking to see who's because if you're new, you do gift and you try to get your
09:42brand out there through people who have quote unquote, a following. So I go for that as well.
09:48But I'm in the depths of Instagram. Like I can probably tell you your 2017 posts and you're
09:54like, what? But that's just, that's me. That's how we do it. It's rabbit holes, rabbit holes. I get it.
10:00I totally, totally get it. Jason, I'm assuming with your line of work, you're also down a lot of rabbit
10:05holes, just like sourcing. You're referential God. Like the first time we had a conversation,
10:10you were pulling references that were taking me back. You know, how does your work as a stylist,
10:17being super referential and impact your work as a designer?
10:23That's a great question. I think my work as a stylist, first off, I'm a fan of fashion,
10:32like, you know, and I'm a fan of like so many designers. And I think I'm so happy to
10:41to first have started as a designer. Because now, number one thing, I understand craftsmanship.
10:50And it's hard, it's hard. I tell my stylist friends all the time, like, you know, especially
10:57in our community, you know, with younger designers, it's hard for, to expect the quality of a Dior
11:04from them if they never even held the quality of a Dior garment. And so it's our job to communicate
11:13and to nurture and to mentor them to get to a place of great quality and great craftsmanship.
11:21And being a stylist and being able to hold these garments and to, you know, see how these creative
11:30directors have designed and how they elevated and how they evolved throughout their career for me
11:37has gave me a more understanding for who I wanted to be as a designer. And I think references for
11:48styling is a great thing. And it's something that we use on like video, we use day to day life,
11:59we use on carpets, we use maybe in the editorial. But as a designer, I feel like you have to be kind
12:08of a little bit more conscious about, you know, things being a reference of something. Because
12:14you could easily be called out on like diet product. So it's like, you know, things have to just be like
12:22a little bit more respected and not taking things from things and just like making it your own and
12:31being it being creative. So I kind of, I don't, I don't really look when I'm thinking about design,
12:39I don't really look at other stuff as much like, you know, I read a lot, or I would look more like art,
12:47or more about like, I read, I learned more about women who I'm inspired by. So
12:57Who inspires you? To be honest, I mean, so many, but the number one is, is who's named after is my
13:08mother. Like, you know, like, you know, what she who she was, like, I remember, this is 10 years
13:14since she passed away. And I remember going to her funeral, and seeing like 500 people there,
13:21and every single person had the same thing to say about her. And so I walk with that every day.
13:27Like, you know, I'm trying to get to a place of
13:30where she's as proud as I am of her.
13:38I love that.
13:39And I love that, you know, when you are in this industry, you're bringing along so many
13:47things with you, you're bringing along your family, you're bringing along your ancestors,
13:50you're bringing along your story. It's not just, I don't know, it's not just glitz, glam,
13:55it's, it gets, it gets really deep. And I'm curious to know, as you guys have started in
14:01this industry, and, you know, you as a designer, you as a shop owner, what challenges have you
14:06guys faced in this space that you've been able, able to confront and like, hopefully overcome
14:13or are overcoming? You know, I think it's an ongoing work in progress. I wouldn't say it's,
14:20you know, it's an, it's an, it's still a challenge.
14:25So many.
14:27But I think the biggest, because I did open the store during COVID, that was not the plan.
14:33I did open when I was 27. So there's that, or really 26. I think the biggest thing for me
14:42has been fighting to stay in this space that I'm in. Because I came into the game, I was in social
14:48before. I was in PR before. I went to school for retail management. I was in grad school while I
14:54was opening the store. But I didn't have the quote unquote, fashion buyer experience. So I think it's
15:01when you, I didn't really get a seat at the table, I kind of like built the room and was like, who's
15:07going to come in? Thanks. So I think for me, it's just being able to fight for the space that I'm
15:14in. And that's with partnerships, that's with getting brands in the store, and kind of always,
15:20always having to explain why I'm here, how I'm here. And I think that's doubled when you're a
15:26black woman, and you're a young black woman. And people look to take, you know, advantage of that
15:32when they can, or they try to. And so all from that, I've learned to surround myself with beautiful
15:38people that will fight for me in the moments that I can't fight for myself. Because you do also have
15:43to show up and be, you know, a certain, even when you are being taken advantage of. So just fighting
15:50for that space and continuing to do so. Well, you're doing a great job at it.
15:56Thank you. I'm gonna be, I'm gonna be completely honest. It's money. Like, you know, money, money's
16:06the big thing. Like, you know, there's not proper funding, and support for especially young designers.
16:16And then young black designers on top of that, like, there's, there's, there's a lack of support.
16:21And I tell with, especially with us, like, I tell my team, I'm fine with supporting black designers
16:32on messenger costs, or on FedEx, and even tailoring, like, you know, for certain carpets. Because
16:39I know on my side, even at this point in my career, while yet, the budget is me. There's, there's,
16:48there's no, there's no backer. There, there's no, no one who's paying for that Uber, or that messenger,
16:54or that, that sample, or if this person wants to double of it tomorrow. Like, I'm, I'm covering
17:01the cost for everything. But I also have what I do in my career as a stylist to support it.
17:08A lot of these designers don't have nothing. Like, you know, they have the dream, and they
17:13have the creativity, and they have the work ethic. So I feel like I do my part. But when
17:20I get that opportunity to pay for their messenger, or, like, I remember CFDA Awards, when, when
17:28Issa wore, when she hosted it, and she wore all black designers, they paid me, let's say,
17:37$5. Like, right, they pay me $5. It cost me $10 to make all those designers work. So I came
17:46out double out of my own pocket to make, so she could wear all black designers. And I hope
17:55that there's more of that. I hope that there's more of, of us who are, who are supporting us
18:02in those ways, where it's like taking out the dollar out of our pocket, or the, the thousand
18:08dollars out of our pocket, to make that person's dream come true. Because if we do that, hopefully,
18:17it's a, hopefully that person does that for someone else.
18:20Yeah. No, absolutely. I was, I, that was one of my last questions to you guys, was about
18:25equity, and, like, how we can own more of this space, you know? And I think that's a really
18:29good solution. It's just like, you know, we might have to just put our money twice through.
18:35Tell she's like, girl, and you're like, I'm a, I'm a living, I'm a living example.
18:40Yeah, because he's right. There's not a lot of funding, um, that circulates within the black
18:44community, and there are not a lot of loans or grants that are given to us. And when those
18:52alerts, we get in our emails, get a $10,000 grant. Like, you're up against everybody else.
18:59Um, and it's a million of deserving people out there that want the same 10K I might want. So,
19:05I think, yes, put your dollars into the community, um, as best as you can. And sometimes support also
19:15shows up far beyond monetary value. Sometimes it's a repost, or a reshare, or a tag, or something as
19:22small as that. And then someone maybe with those funds that you might not have, discovers it, sees
19:28it, goes, shops it, or goes and supports it, or buys it. And then it's like, oh, well, I couldn't get
19:33the $5 from them, but I got the $5 from them. And when X person has $5, hopefully, they'll come back to
19:40me. And I think that's, like, what we can do more of when it comes to all monetary circulation.
19:46I hear that.
19:48Um, I agree. I mean, we got to celebrate each other wins. Like, you know, to be honest, like,
19:54I look at, I look at, like, Atlanta rappers. Every single person, when that person drops a single,
20:03when that person drops an album, every Atlanta rapper reposts it. They post it on their Instagram
20:09feed. They post it on their Instagram story. Like, they support one another. And I feel like,
20:15in our community, we just need to support one another. Like, you know, and I try to do that a
20:21lot more. Like, you know, I try, I try to do monetary, but if, if my friend posted some fire styling,
20:29I'm reposting it. Like, if, like, if, if, if another friend, like, like, designs something crazy,
20:36or won an award, or won a grant, I'm, I'm reposting it. Like, your, your win is our win. Like, you know,
20:45so, I think, I just think it needs to be more, more of that. That's how we grow. Like, you know,
20:53we have, we have to grow together. And, you know, and I'm so happy. It was, it was, like,
20:59when I first came in this industry, and Marjorie, I'm sure for you as well, so many people were okay
21:04with being the only one. And now it's so beautiful to see, like, like, the community that, that was
21:15fostered through the past few years. And just to see how many of us are in those rooms. And it's
21:21because we built the new room. And it's because we built the new table. And it's because we, we,
21:28we kicked down and burned down all those bridges that never, ever empowered us.
21:34So, it's, it's really dope to just even be on a stage with you guys, and to even be able to talk
21:40about black luxury. Because that recognition that we spoke about earlier of it always being black
21:48luxury. We're not new to this. We're true to this, right? Black luxury always existed. But it's,
21:56like, and now it's time for us to take it back. And to support us.
22:02I love that. I love that about the younger generation. And to your point, it's like building
22:07that community. And I, and, and getting rid of the gatekeeping and the only one and all that kind of
22:12stuff. And just making it more expansive and opening it up. Um, guys, that's the all time we
22:18have. But this has been a wonderful, wonderful conversation. Um, I, I thank you guys, my panelists,
22:24uh, for joining me here today. And I appreciate the audience for, for listening and engaging.
22:30And, um, there's more Essence Fashion House to come. Yes, sir. Yes. Follow these two and their
22:37journey and support them. Thank you. Thank you guys.
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