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00:00Hey, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.
00:04This time, we're on the wild and western fringe of Europe.
00:08It's the land of mighty waterfalls, the midnight sun, and volcanoes.
00:12It's Iceland. Thanks for joining us.
00:30We're exploring Iceland's highlights for a short visit, its capital city, Reykjavik,
00:52and the unforgettable day trip deep into Iceland's majestic nature.
00:57It's called the Golden Circle.
01:00Reykjavik feels laid back and easygoing.
01:03It's chill in more ways than one, with a landmark church,
01:08a scrappy history, and a determined cultural life.
01:13We'll soak with the locals in the neighborhood thermal pool.
01:17Then, venturing into Iceland's dramatic interior,
01:20driving the famous Golden Circle,
01:22we'll see the gorge where Europe meets America.
01:27thrill under the original geyser,
01:30and feel the spray of a thunderous waterfall.
01:35Iceland, the size of Virginia with less than half a million residents,
01:39sits in the North Atlantic, just below the Arctic Circle.
01:42From Reykjavik, the northernmost capital on Earth, we'll loop inland on the scenic Golden Circle.
01:52Reykjavik, by far the biggest city in the country, is still small.
01:57It's about the size of Berkeley or Fargo.
01:59With a hardscrabble heritage and a vibrant culture,
02:02today it offers a tourist-friendly mix of old and new.
02:08While short on world-class sights, Reykjavik certainly has an urban vitality,
02:13with plenty of restaurants and shopping to keep visitors entertained.
02:17It's unexpectedly cosmopolitan, with an artistic, bohemian flair.
02:23And it's blustery.
02:25Iceland can be cold, even in summer.
02:28This is a typical day in July.
02:31And so is this.
02:33If you don't like the weather, just wait a few minutes.
02:38Reykjavik's neighborhoods are enlivened by street art.
02:41A blank wall will just get tagged with graffiti anyway.
02:44So, instead, homeowners hire talented street artists
02:48to create colorful murals.
02:56It seems every street leads to Hallgrim's Church,
02:59crowning a hill in the town center.
03:01Designed by Iceland's state architect in the 1930s,
03:12the church represents the national style.
03:15Stark and utilitarian, yet beautiful,
03:18it evokes the island's volcanic landscape.
03:21Stair-stepped gables echo Iceland's basalt cliffs.
03:26The interior is Lutheran, serene, and austere.
03:34The glass is clear, not stained.
03:38And the altar is a simple table.
03:44An elevator whisks visitors to the top of the tower
03:47for panoramic views over all of Reykjavik.
03:51Two out of every three Icelanders
03:54lives within sight of this steeple.
04:01In front of the church stands a statue of Leif Eriksson.
04:04Born here in Iceland,
04:06this Viking explorer is believed to be the first European
04:09to set foot in the Americas,
04:11about five centuries before Christopher Columbus.
04:17The modern sculpture, called the Sea Voyager,
04:20is an homage to those Scandinavian adventurers
04:23who, beginning in the ninth century,
04:25loaded up their ships,
04:27set sail into an uncharted ocean,
04:30and brought civilization to this uninhabited island.
04:37Iceland, so harsh and desolate,
04:39steaming with volcanoes,
04:41was settled over a thousand years ago
04:43by early Norse farmers.
04:45Imagine the original Icelanders,
04:49hardy folk, eking out a living,
04:52on remote farms, living in isolation.
04:55They chronicled their lives in the sagas,
04:58a blending of historical records,
05:00tall tales, and legends.
05:03From the age of the Vikings,
05:10the country grew slowly.
05:12By the mid-1700s,
05:14all of Iceland still only had about 50,000 people,
05:18and Reykjavik was just a big farm.
05:21As trade, mostly fishing, increased,
05:23and towns began to form,
05:25Reykjavik emerged as the capital city.
05:28The National Museum collects artifacts
05:30from these early days of Iceland.
05:33A society made of wood
05:35doesn't leave much behind.
05:40But a few exquisite items,
05:42like these ornamental horns,
05:44and these whalebone carvings, survive.
05:52Pagan Iceland converted to Christianity
05:55in about the year 1000.
05:57Until relatively modern times,
06:00Icelandic settlers lived in rustic cottages.
06:05Existence may have been bleak,
06:07but families were tight-knit.
06:09Many Icelanders lived simple lives,
06:12much like this,
06:13until the early 20th century.
06:16Life was tied to the sea.
06:19Icelanders sailed in open boats,
06:22fished for cod,
06:24and hunted shark for their valuable liver oil.
06:28More and more,
06:29symbols like an official national costume
06:31and its own flag
06:32demonstrated a growing sense
06:34of national identity.
06:37Iceland remained part of Denmark
06:39through the 1800s.
06:42Iceland-born politician Jan Sigurdsson
06:44lobbied in Copenhagen for independence,
06:47which Denmark finally granted in 1918.
06:53Iceland's parliament,
06:55called the Althing,
06:56may seem humble,
06:57but it represents a thousand-year journey
06:59in this society
07:00from rustic farmsteads
07:02to today's modern democratic nation.
07:05For locals, Parliament Square remains a place
07:12to make your voice heard...
07:15or to just hang out.
07:20Reykjavik still has a hard-working harbor,
07:23busy with both industrial vessels
07:26and sightseeing boats.
07:29And in just the last generation,
07:32boldly modern condos and office towers
07:34show how today's Iceland
07:36is charging into the future.
07:40And a fine example of that
07:42is the super-modern concert hall
07:44called Harpa.
07:47In the lobby, the sky reflects
07:49like you're inside a giant honeycombed prison.
07:53This extravagant use of space and glass
07:57put Iceland on the world's architectural map
07:59when it opened in 2011.
08:02Welcoming the public,
08:03a hit with locals and tourists,
08:06and busy with conferences and concerts,
08:09Harpa is the hub of the country's
08:11cultural and community activity.
08:17This island is proud of its homegrown artists,
08:20especially the sculptor Einar Janssen,
08:22who, in the early 1900s,
08:24was inspired by Rodin.
08:28A welcoming sculpture garden
08:30is filled with his bronze works.
08:34Inside the Einar Janssen Museum
08:36are the plaster originals.
08:39Janssen's works are intense and emotive.
08:43You'll see Viking warriors,
08:46bold explorers,
08:50protective women,
08:52and lots of drama.
08:55He blended elements of Christianity,
08:58Old Norse legend,
09:00Greek mythology,
09:02and his own belief that every person
09:04contains at least a kernel of goodness.
09:07A visit here reminds us that even small countries
09:10produce talented artists like Janssen
09:13worth getting to know.
09:15For a peek at the city's everyday charms
09:19and more insight into the culture,
09:21I'm joined by local tour guide,
09:23Saga Friedrichsdottir,
09:25a Reykjavik native who loves showing off her hometown.
09:29Saga, I love Iceland,
09:31but this language is impossible for me.
09:33Oh, yeah.
09:34How can any tourist remember that?
09:36Oh, well, I mean,
09:37Sjólaverðustígur.
09:39Sjólaverðustígur.
09:40Sjólaverðustígur.
09:41Yeah, that's pretty hard,
09:42but we know we all speak English as well.
09:43Thank goodness.
09:45This street makes me happy.
09:47Very happy, very colorful,
09:49dedicated to gay pride,
09:51but also a reminder
09:52that Iceland is much for just equality
09:54and human rights.
09:57And this is always Rainbow Street.
09:59Nice.
10:00Yes.
10:01So in the summer,
10:02days are very long,
10:03but in the winter,
10:04what is it like in the winter?
10:05Well, cold and very, very dark,
10:08but we have these beautiful, colorful houses
10:12that really characterizes Reykjavík.
10:15They brighten up our days in winter.
10:17And also you notice
10:18we have a lot of corrugated iron
10:20that clothes these wooden houses,
10:22which was revolutionary material
10:24because it protected the houses
10:27from this crazy Icelandic weather.
10:29I'm sure, historically,
10:32this is a society
10:33that has dealt with hardships.
10:35Oh, yeah, for sure.
10:36Definitely.
10:37But we have strong mentality
10:38and there's actually a saying
10:40in Icelandic,
10:41Þetta rættast.
10:43Þetta rættast.
10:44Þetta rættast.
10:45Þetta rættast.
10:46And it basically just means
10:47it's gonna be fine.
10:48Don't worry about it.
10:49It's gonna work out.
10:51On weekends,
10:52the downtown flea market
10:54is a characteristic
10:55and mostly local shopping scene.
10:57This is really a fun place.
10:59And don't miss
11:00those famous Icelandic sweaters.
11:02I don't do a lot of shopping.
11:04But when it comes
11:05to the Nordic countries,
11:06I like a sweater.
11:08Oh, that's beautiful.
11:10So, Saga, this really feels like good wool.
11:12I mean, we consider it
11:13to be the best wool in the world.
11:15This is like Icelandic sheep.
11:17Proper Icelandic sheep wool, yes.
11:19Yeah.
11:20And what is it special?
11:21Because it feels a little special.
11:22Well, I guess because they've been
11:24roaming freely in Iceland
11:25since 874.
11:27They know how to deal
11:28with rough Icelandic weather.
11:30And they give us
11:31the perfect clothing for that.
11:34Oh, yeah.
11:35Do you think it's good?
11:36Yes.
11:37Very good.
11:38I like it because it feels
11:40it has history, you know?
11:41It's...
11:42Yeah.
11:43Wow.
11:44Oh, look at that.
11:45Yeah.
11:46You look like a local.
11:48I feel like a local.
11:49I can speak Icelandic.
11:51Yes.
11:52The flea market is also a place
11:55you can sample some unique tastes.
11:57As the early Icelanders
11:59settled this untamed island,
12:01they resorted to many hardship foods.
12:04So, when we come to Iceland,
12:06everybody has to try the shark.
12:07They have to try the shark, definitely.
12:09I mean, this is the famous Greenland shark.
12:13This is shark.
12:14Yes.
12:15Fermented shark, yeah.
12:16Because if you would eat the shark straight away,
12:19you know, when it's fresh,
12:20you would die, unfortunately.
12:21You would die?
12:22Yes.
12:23It is toxic in Iceland.
12:24So, how did you ferment this?
12:25So, you chop it in pieces,
12:27you bury it in the ground for some time,
12:28and then hang it up.
12:29And you get rid of the ammonia,
12:31or, like, the urine, basically,
12:32which is the toxins.
12:34And I always think, like,
12:35how many tries did it take
12:36to figure out this method
12:38of, like, not getting killed
12:41by eating the shark?
12:42That just stokes my appetite.
12:43Right?
12:44Is it possible to try some?
12:45You have to try it.
12:46There are some pieces here.
12:47Oh, good.
12:48There you go.
12:49I'm going to put this piece of shark down.
12:50Here we go.
12:51And this is usually how it comes,
12:52like, in small pieces.
12:53So, you're more than welcome
12:55to have a piece or two
12:56if you fancy it.
12:57Yeah.
12:58Give it a good chew.
12:59Give it a good chew.
13:01Wow.
13:02Now, that is very fishy right now.
13:07Yes.
13:08Wait for the afterpaste.
13:09Yeah.
13:10My goodness.
13:11Now, it's like it just got swept over
13:13with ammonia.
13:15Right.
13:16And usually, you're supposed to drink it
13:18with the black death schnapps.
13:20Ah, some akavit, some firewater.
13:22Yes.
13:23Please have some.
13:24Oh, baby.
13:25That is unforgettable.
13:26Yeah.
13:27Oh.
13:28But now you've tried the famous
13:29Icelandic shark.
13:30Oh, the aftertaste.
13:31I just feel like I've been
13:32in a gas station or something.
13:34One, two, three.
13:35Down.
13:44Iceland is a volcanic island.
13:46It's formed at the rift,
13:47where the European and North American
13:49tectonic plates are pulling apart.
13:51That's why there's a chain
13:52of active volcanoes, hot springs,
13:54and steam vents like this,
13:56cutting right through the center
13:57of the country.
13:58Visitors come to Iceland,
14:00hoping to see a volcanic eruption,
14:02but big, dramatic eruptions
14:04that casual visitors can actually
14:06get up close to and see
14:07are very rare.
14:13But exploring this island
14:15does come with plenty
14:16of steamy serendipity.
14:18Like roadside attractions,
14:20bubbling mud holes gurgle
14:22with molten muck.
14:25Vents spew steam.
14:28And as the fog clears from your glasses,
14:31suddenly you're interested in geology.
14:35The entire island is shaped by lava
14:37from past eruptions.
14:39Dark, chunky lava rock blanketed
14:41by cushy moss covers much
14:43of Iceland's surface,
14:45giving the countryside a desolate,
14:47almost lunar feel.
14:52And the Icelanders have ingeniously
14:54harnessed their endless supply
14:55of green energy.
14:57Geothermal plants in the middle of nowhere
15:01are hard at work, boring deep into the Earth's crust,
15:04to tap into hot water.
15:06And pipelines carry that superheated water
15:09through miles of countryside
15:11to heat and power Reykjavik and other communities.
15:18Despite the chill, houses are toasty.
15:21In fact, you'll notice many small windows propped open.
15:25Because that geothermal heat is so cheap,
15:27people don't even bother turning down the radiator.
15:30They just crack the window.
15:34The most enjoyable use for Iceland's hot water
15:37is its thermal pools.
15:39And the most famous spa
15:41is 45 minutes outside Reykjavik,
15:44the Blue Lagoon.
15:46Years ago, a geothermal plant
15:48began dumping its hot, mineral-rich wastewater
15:51into this lava landscape.
15:53Locals discovered it was a great place to take a dip.
15:56Developers then transformed it into a high-end spa.
16:00Today, Iceland's top tourist attraction
16:03is close to the airport
16:05and a popular first or last stop for visitors.
16:09The Blue Lagoon is a lavish spa,
16:12but it's extremely touristy,
16:14and you sure won't meet many Icelanders here.
16:16But the good news?
16:18You have plenty of alternatives
16:20that are just as relaxing.
16:22The community thermal pools.
16:25The Blue Lagoon is popular, but it's expensive,
16:34about ten times the cost of a pool like this.
16:37You can luxuriate in the Blue Lagoon,
16:39or you can soak with the locals
16:42in a neighborhood pool.
16:44The choice is yours.
16:46Today on Soakin' Local.
16:49Fed by natural thermal springs,
16:51the main pool is bathwater warm.
16:54Water slides, cascades, and kid zones
16:57keep locals entertained.
16:59This is where Icelanders meet up after work
17:02to connect with friends and family.
17:05I can't think of a better way to meet the locals.
17:09And for the ultimate in relaxation,
17:12100-degree hot pots simmer nearby.
17:15Soaking together is a great equalizer.
17:18Student, truck driver, doctor, and tourist,
17:21everybody's equal in the pool.
17:25Iceland is all about the great outdoors.
17:35But if the weather's bad, as it often is,
17:38several indoor sites here in Reykjavik
17:40offer a taste of the majesty of Iceland
17:42without leaving the capital city.
17:44At the edge of town is a one-stop way
17:47to experience this country's top natural wonders,
17:50at least virtually, under one roof, the pearl.
17:54Exhibits feature fiery volcanoes
17:57with majestic footage that gives a sense of awe.
18:01Birds perched precariously on towering cliffs.
18:05And a 300-foot-long ice cave.
18:09It's a primer on Icelandic nature,
18:12especially worthwhile for those without the time
18:15or money to see the real thing.
18:18The most elusive natural thrill is the aurora borealis.
18:23In summer, when it's too light to see these northern lights,
18:26you can step into the planetarium
18:28to get a sense of this fabled phenomenon.
18:31But, of course, there's nothing like experiencing the real thing.
18:35Remember, even if you come in the winter
18:37solely for the northern lights,
18:39there's no guarantees of seeing them.
18:41But if you do see those ethereal lights
18:44dancing in the sky,
18:46the experience will stay with you
18:48for the rest of your days.
18:55The weather's great,
18:56and from Reykjavik,
18:57we're making the classic 150-mile day trip loop,
19:01the Golden Circle.
19:03Within minutes,
19:04we're immersed in Iceland's iconic wide-open spaces
19:06and enjoying the dramatic scenery
19:08of this island's natural wonders.
19:12Today, we'll see gorges, waterfalls, geysers, and more,
19:16with epic views all along the way.
19:19By the way, most people do this as a day trip on a tour bus.
19:23But we're driving.
19:25Our first stop is Thingvellir.
19:29This national park is important to Icelanders for two reasons.
19:33First, at this gorge, you can see the rift
19:36that marks that slow separation of tectonic plates.
19:40Walking along this fissure in the Earth's crust,
19:43travelers sense this meeting of two continents,
19:46America on the left,
19:48Europe on the right.
19:50And second, Thingvellir,
19:52which means assembly planes,
19:54was the site of the original Althing,
19:57an annual gathering of early settlers.
20:01This is where the nation of Iceland was born.
20:05A thousand years ago,
20:07chieftains from isolated farms all over the island
20:10traveled great distances to meet right here every summer
20:13and make important decisions.
20:15In an age when almost no one could read or write,
20:18each meeting began by reciting the memorized highlights
20:21from last year's gathering.
20:23History aside, Thingvellir is inviting for a nature walk.
20:27In this evocative spot, waterfalls tumble,
20:31and the river flows as geology does its slow-motion dance.
20:39Just up the road is a geological site actually called geyser.
20:44This geothermal field, colorful and steamy with scalding water,
20:49is home to the original geyser,
20:52which means gusher in Icelandic.
20:55The site is otherworldly,
20:58as pools bubble and steam fills the air,
21:01all with a whiff of sulfur.
21:04But the big show is the central geyser.
21:08Tourists line up, cameras poised with anticipation,
21:15ready to capture the moment.
21:17They wait and wait and wait.
21:21Sometimes they wait so long,
21:23the weather actually improves.
21:25And then, suddenly, with a gurgling belch,
21:28the geyser explodes,
21:30rocketing skyward and thrilling the crowd.
21:40As you drive the Golden Circle,
21:42remember to slow down and enjoy the scenery.
21:45And it's not just about the famous natural sites.
21:50Along the way, you'll see slices of Iceland's unique agriculture.
21:56With its efficient greenhouses,
21:58even with the lack of good topsoil and its difficult weather,
22:02Iceland grows plenty of tasty vegetables.
22:06The climate is harsh for conventional farming,
22:09but its expertise in greenhouse technology
22:12and in putting geothermal energy to good use
22:15yields an abundant harvest.
22:23For lunch, we're stopping at a working farm.
22:26It's clear that frugal farmers here
22:28are tapping into the tourist boom.
22:31This family now serves hungry sightseers.
22:34The soup bar is a budget standby.
22:38It's all you can slurp,
22:40with fresh-baked bread and a glass of water
22:43and a cup of coffee.
22:45You can finish with a farm-fresh dessert
22:48with a special twist.
22:50The cows actually watch the diners,
22:53enjoying ice cream made from their very own milk.
22:58For generations, this family has raised horses.
23:02Horse lovers know that Iceland's local breed is special.
23:05Small and sturdy,
23:07these were first brought over by Vikings
23:09in the settlement age a thousand years ago,
23:12chosen because they could fit inside the hold of a ship,
23:15yet they were strong enough to work hard once they arrived.
23:19Throughout the country,
23:21you'll see these wind-blown beauties.
23:23A long-established ban on importing other breeds
23:26means that today's Icelandic horses are purebred and unique.
23:32They also have a distinctive gait that thrills equestrians.
23:49The final stop on our Golden Circle Loop
23:52is one of the most impressive waterfalls
23:55in a country famed for waterfalls.
23:57Gullfoss, the Golden Falls.
24:01The churning glacial river plummets into a narrow gorge.
24:05Up close, the cauldron comes with a deafening roar.
24:10And even from high above, visitors feel the spray, wonderstruck.
24:15Gullfoss is one of those places Iceland specializes in,
24:20where you feel the raw power of nature.
24:24It's the perfect climax to a Golden Circle day.
24:28This remote island, with its mighty nature,
24:40tiny population, and gritty love of life,
24:43brings out the explorer in all of us.
24:45And I'm inspired by both its wild beauty and its people.
24:50I hope you've enjoyed our look at Iceland,
24:53its capital city, and its Golden Circle.
24:56Until next time, I'm Rick Steves. Keep on traveling.
24:59Keep on traveling.
25:03Tell me a tongue twister in Icelandic.
25:09What is that?
25:14That's a little weird.
25:19Until next time, I'm Rick Steves. Keep on traveling.
25:26That's a little weird.
25:41If you you go insane.
25:46You smell
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