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Cook's Country from America's Test Kitchen (2008) Season 18 Episode 8 - New England Sandwiches
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FunTranscript
00:00Cook's Country is about more than just getting dinner on the table.
00:09We're also fascinated by the people and stories behind the dishes.
00:14We go inside kitchens in every corner of the country to learn how real people cook.
00:20And we look back through time to see how history influences the way we eat today.
00:25We bring that inspiration back to our test kitchen so we can share it with you.
00:31This is Cook's Country.
00:37Today on Cook's Country, Ashley makes Jitto-style steak bombs.
00:43I talk about regional sandwich names.
00:45Jack explores the world of squash.
00:48And Brian visits a Boston sandwich shop and shares his version of their eggplant Spucky.
00:53That's all right here on Cook's Country.
01:06Philly's got their cheese steaks and Chicago's famous for their Italian beef sandwiches.
01:11Out in L.A., you've got the famous French dip.
01:14But here in New England, well, we like a good steak bomb.
01:18And da bomb, Ashley, is here.
01:20Sorry, she's going to show us how to make this great sandwich.
01:24I am.
01:24So if you're from New England, chances are you have had a steak bomb.
01:28And you know just how good they are.
01:30But the one that we love the most is a place up in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
01:35And it's a super steak shop.
01:36It's called Jitto's Super Steak.
01:38And they have the most amazing steak bombs, super tender meat, the vegetables, the onions,
01:43the mushrooms, and the peppers are super, super well seasoned and cooked to perfection.
01:47All right.
01:47So let me show you our version of how to make that.
01:50Okay.
01:51So we're going to start with some vegetable preparation.
01:53We've got our usual suspects, red bell pepper, some white mushrooms, and an onion.
01:58Pepper's, onion's mushroom.
01:59Mm-hmm.
01:59Gotta have it.
01:59Gotta have it.
02:01So I'm just going to use the striations of the onion and kind of guide me across the onion.
02:05Just a quarter inch thick slices.
02:09All right.
02:09Now for this red bell pepper, I'm just going to stem seed and then slice this pretty thinly
02:14as well, about a quarter inch thick as well.
02:16Okay.
02:20All right.
02:20Now for the mushrooms, I've got four ounces here, just plain white button mushrooms.
02:24I'm just going to stem them and then halve them and slice them thin.
02:29Okay.
02:30All right.
02:30So I'm putting these in the same bowl because the mushrooms and the peppers are going to
02:33go into the skillet at the same time.
02:35Okay.
02:35Now let's get to the bomb part of our steak bomb.
02:38Okay.
02:39Genoa salami.
02:41Genoa salami in a steak bomb.
02:42Yep.
02:43So just one and a half ounces of the thinly sliced salami.
02:46Just find it at the deli at your grocery store.
02:48Great.
02:48And that is done.
02:50Now let's get to the steak of our steak bomb.
02:53I've got one pound of sirloin steak tips, also sold as flat meat as you see in the grocery
02:58store.
02:59This is actually really well trimmed, but if it did have any kind of connective tissue or extra
03:04fat on there, you would go ahead and trim it right now.
03:07I'm going to cut this into three quarter inch pieces.
03:12All right.
03:13So I'm going to wash my hands.
03:16Time to cook the vegetable portion of our steak bombs.
03:20I've got two tablespoons of vegetable oil in this 12 inch nonstick skillet over medium high
03:24heat.
03:24As you can see, there are some beautiful ripples.
03:27We are up to a shimmer.
03:28So I'm going to add our onions.
03:32And I'm going to cook these for about four minutes until the onions are beginning to
03:35brown.
03:36Okay.
03:37All right.
03:37Four minutes has passed and you can see the onions are beginning to brown.
03:40So now I'm going to add the rest of the vegetables to the skillet.
03:43And I'm going to let that go for about six minutes.
03:45But I need to season the vegetables at this stage.
03:48So one teaspoon of one of my favorite seasoning weapons here of the Lowry's seasoning salt.
03:55Now they use this up at Jitto's.
03:57And it's just one way that kind of makes their steak bomb extra special because of the seasoning
04:01out of this jar.
04:03So six minutes here and then we're going to come back and get to the beef.
04:07Okay.
04:07Picture a sandwich piled high with meat on a long roll.
04:18Now, what do you call it?
04:20The answer probably depends on where you grew up.
04:23If you call it a hero, you're likely from New York.
04:27A grinder, you could be from Connecticut.
04:30And a po' boy, that's New Orleans for sure.
04:33The origins for these varying Italian sandwich names are murky.
04:38But what we do know is that the sandwich vernacular is region-specific.
04:43And not all of these sandwich names are interchangeable.
04:46Take, for instance, a hoagie.
04:48It could describe any Italian sandwich.
04:51But a zeppelin is made with just one meat, tomato and onion slices, and never any lettuce.
04:58Here at Cook's Country, we are enamored by a New England Italian sandwich, the steak bomb.
05:11You can see the vegetables are really beautifully softened.
05:14They're gorgeous.
05:15Gorgeous.
05:16I'm just going to transfer them to this bowl here because they are good and cooked.
05:21Now, let's move on to the sub rolls.
05:24All right.
05:24Here I have four sub rolls that are split and still together on one side.
05:30Now, these are Pianta Dossi bakery rolls.
05:34They come from a bakery in Malden, Massachusetts.
05:36And this is the type of roll that Jittos uses.
05:39What's important is they use them because they're sturdy on the exterior,
05:43but then they're really nice and soft on the interior.
05:47Gorgeous.
05:47So if you can't get the specific brand, soft on the inside, sturdy on the outside.
05:52Exactly.
05:52Okay.
05:53Now, I've got six tablespoons of mayonnaise that I'm going to spread on the interior of each roll.
05:59So I'm going to do about one and a half tablespoons per.
06:01Okay.
06:03So I have an oven that's been preheated to 400 degrees with the oven rack set at the middle position.
06:08And I'm just going to cook these for about five minutes until they're turning golden brown.
06:11Now, it's time to move on to our steak.
06:19I'm going to heat up vegetable oil.
06:21I've got one teaspoon until just smoking.
06:25Now it's time to add the steak.
06:29All right.
06:30I just put it in a single layer, but I'm not going to touch it after that point
06:33because we want to get a good amount of browning on the meat.
06:36And we want to cook it for about five minutes to medium.
06:40And also, I'm going to add a little bit more of the Lowry's.
06:43One more teaspoon.
06:44Sprinkle right over.
06:46And finally, the salami.
06:49I'm just going to sprinkle that over top.
06:52All right.
06:52Five minutes, not stirring at all.
06:54And we're going to want the meat to be medium
06:56because we want it to be super tender on the interior,
06:58but cook through, looking for that crisp bottom.
07:00Okay, great.
07:02The steak is nice and cooked.
07:04Now, just off the heat, we're going to add our vegetables
07:07and just stir everything together.
07:13All right.
07:14So now I'm going to fill the sub rolls evenly
07:17with our steak and vegetable mixture.
07:21And you are generous with your filling here.
07:25This is how they do it at Jettos?
07:26It sure is.
07:27So I've got eight slices of deli American cheese,
07:33and I'm going to just put two pieces over top.
07:38All right.
07:39Now I'm going to put this back in the 400-degree oven
07:41for just one minute until the cheese is melted.
07:48Oh.
07:50Wow.
07:51Oh, my goodness.
07:53Oh, ma'am, I'm here from the bomb squad.
07:55I'm picking this one.
07:58Oh, yeah.
08:00Oh, I really have goosebumps.
08:02I'm not even joking right now.
08:04Look at that.
08:05Cheese melted.
08:06I know.
08:07Vegetables peeking out there.
08:09This is what I like to call good eating.
08:13Mm-hmm.
08:14Real good eating.
08:15Mm-hmm.
08:16Only one way to find out just how good this is.
08:18I agree.
08:18Mm-hmm.
08:23Mm-hmm.
08:23That is right.
08:26Happy dance.
08:28That is so good.
08:29Wow.
08:29Mm.
08:30That meat is so tender in there.
08:32Mm-hmm.
08:32It's the salami.
08:34Mm-hmm.
08:34It's a little tangy.
08:35That and the mayonnaise together.
08:36Yeah.
08:37Those two add so much flavor in here.
08:39Of course, that seasoned salt is very specific.
08:42It tastes like no other hoagie or sub or grinder
08:45or anything else that I've ever had.
08:47And the American cheese.
08:48Mm.
08:49It's doing its thing.
08:50This might be the best sandwich I've ever had.
08:53And I don't have to drive to New Hampshire for it.
08:55No.
08:55Yeah.
08:56Just hanging with you.
08:57Yes.
08:57Thanks so much, Ashley.
08:58You're welcome.
08:59Well, if you want to make this incredible sandwich,
09:01it starts by seasoning and sauteing onions,
09:04peppers, and mushrooms until tender.
09:06Separately, brown steak tips with salami.
09:09Assemble on toasted buns,
09:11top with cheese, and bake until melted.
09:13So from Cook's Country, Jitto-style steak bombs.
09:18Take two.
09:18They're small.
09:19Mm.
09:25The only thing I like about winter, it's squash.
09:29And I'm going to teach you which varieties go in which recipes,
09:32which varieties can be substituted for each other.
09:35And I'm going to tell you about my favorites.
09:36But before we get there,
09:37I need to talk about the thing that's not on the table.
09:39Those packages have already peeled, prepped squash.
09:43Big mistake if you just want to roast the squash.
09:45They're really dry.
09:46They don't have a lot of flavor.
09:47And if you just toss it with olive oil and put it in a hot oven,
09:50it's going to be really unpalatable.
09:53It's acceptable.
09:54Not great, but acceptable.
09:55If you want to put it in a soup or stew,
09:57that liquid is going to rehydrate the squash.
09:59Also, the more flavorful ingredients, the better.
10:01But let's talk about the whole squash here on the table.
10:04I'm going to start with acorn.
10:05This is a little watery, and it's a little stringy.
10:08So I don't think it's a great choice for cutting into wedges and roasting.
10:11I think it's better cut in half and stuff it with something flavorful,
10:14maybe like sausage.
10:16But that means you need to cut it in half.
10:17And I know a lot of you struggle with this.
10:19So here's what you need to do.
10:21Get a towel.
10:22You want to put the squash right on the towel.
10:25It's going to steady it a little bit so it's not rolling around.
10:27And we're going to use a mallet to help get the knife through.
10:31Because if you're just trying to do this with your knife,
10:33you know what's going to happen.
10:34That knife is going to slip, and you run the risk of cutting yourself.
10:37And by using it this way, and then you just keep on going,
10:40you're going to make sure that your hand is away from that blade,
10:43and it's not going to slip.
10:45Next, we have probably the most popular butternut.
10:47It's wonderful roasted.
10:49This is the thing to cut into large chunks and toss with olive oil and put in a hot oven.
10:53Next, we have this little honey nut.
10:55Very similar flavor.
10:56It's a little sweeter and earthier.
10:58It's a little easier to prep because you'll see here in the butternut,
11:01there's a lot of light-colored material.
11:03You've got to peel all that away to get down to the orange.
11:06So you're going to need to peel four or five times.
11:08The honey nut squash has a thinner skin, so you end up with less waste.
11:13My favorite, I told you I had a favorite, it's the delicata.
11:16Because you don't need to peel it.
11:17You just need to cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, cut it into half moods,
11:22toss it with olive oil, and roast it.
11:23I love it on a sheet pan with Brussels sprouts because you get the sweet
11:27and a little bit of the bitterness.
11:28My favorite winter vegetable combo.
11:32This here is the buttercup.
11:34It's a little dry.
11:35It's okay for roasting or for braising.
11:37But I think the next squash, the kabocha, is a better choice here.
11:42I prefer the red variety of this.
11:43There's also a green variety, but the red is a little sweeter.
11:46This is wonderful in a braise.
11:49Blue Hubbard, biggest squash on the table.
11:51This is often sold in chunks because it's so big.
11:54What are you going to do with all of it?
11:56This is the choice for, let's say you're making a stew
11:58where you want lovely chunks of squash.
12:00They're going to soak up that broth.
12:02The Blue Hubbard is wonderful for that.
12:04And last up, spaghetti squash.
12:08Now, I didn't have the best introduction.
12:10My mother treated it like pasta and smothered it with spaghetti sauce.
12:16Don't do that.
12:17It's a vegetable.
12:18It's not pasta.
12:19They're very delicate.
12:20As you can see here, they're pretty thin.
12:22So toss it with a vinaigrette, maybe something punchy like a lemony vinaigrette,
12:26and add flavorful ingredients, herbs, nuts, cheeses,
12:30but don't smother it with tomato sauce.
12:34So the wonderful world of winter squash, there's a squash for every recipe.
12:39From Philly's iconic roast pork sandwich to New Mexico's beloved green chili cheeseburger,
12:52every region of this great nation takes pride in its signature sandwiches,
12:56and I've had the pleasure to try many.
12:58Here in Massachusetts, a classic sandwich is making a comeback in Brookline Village.
13:03Located right outside of Boston, Brookline offers small-town charm just outside the city.
13:08With a local cinema, quaint side streets, and of course, local mom-and-pop shops.
13:15Cuddy's is one of those family-run joints that sells some of the best sandwiches in town.
13:19Owners Charles and Rachel Kelsey are down-to-earth folks who just love a good sandwich.
13:24They also happen to be two of my oldest friends.
13:27We all work together as recipe developers at America's Test Kitchen,
13:31where the two met and fell in love with each other and with sandwiches.
13:34People completely underestimate, like, the art of the sandwich.
13:39There's so much thought that goes into it, and so those layers do matter.
13:44This artistry is on full display across the Cuddy's menu,
13:47but I'm here for one sandwich in particular, their version of the New England Spucky.
13:52But first, I had to ask.
13:54Can you tell me exactly what a Spucky is?
13:57So a Spucky is like an old Boston term for a sub.
14:00Apparently, it comes from the word Spuckadella, which is the name of the roll that they make,
14:06these, like, torpedo-shaped rolls.
14:08I think our older customers know, and they get excited to come in and see it on the menu,
14:13and it reminds them of their childhood.
14:14A lot of people don't know what a Spucky is,
14:17and we've had a whole bunch of mispronunciations of the word Spuckle.
14:22Spunkle.
14:23Sporky, Spunky, people say all different things.
14:26Yeah, you should consider changing the name of Spunkle.
14:29I like it.
14:31You know what they say, Spunkle sells.
14:34Traditional versions of the sandwich feature deli meats, cheese, vegetables,
14:38and dressing piled high on a long roll.
14:41But Charles and Rachel put their own spin on it
14:43and subbed out the deli meats for roasted eggplant.
14:47I followed Charles back into the kitchen to see how their version comes together.
14:52Charles and Rachel put a lot of thought and care into their ingredients,
14:55and they often source them from local farms and purveyors.
14:59All right, and what about the olive oil? What kind of yeast here?
15:00Okay, so this is from a family from the North Shore of Massachusetts.
15:05It's a Turkish family, and they have orchards and turkey, and they make olive oil.
15:09The star of this sandwich is the eggplant,
15:12which they slice thinly and coat with that special olive oil.
15:16Obviously, the oil is going to help flavor the eggplant, but also help with the browning?
15:19Yeah, so you do want to put enough on there so that it doesn't dry out.
15:23You don't want to put so much on that it's greasy, but that's perfect.
15:26Just two or three swipes with the oil, and you're good.
15:30Now a little bit of salt.
15:31Again, I'm not putting like a ton on, and I'm not going to put any on the other side.
15:35Once the eggplant is coated and salted, it roasts and rests.
15:41Then it's time for assembly.
15:44We start with the bread, which comes from a local bakery that Charles and Rachel have been using for years.
15:50The bread is washed in that same bright, grassy olive oil, so you get a nice hit of it with every bite.
15:56I love that.
15:57There's nothing better than just olive oil-saturated bread.
16:01Yeah, it's really the little things.
16:03With the bread properly seasoned, we add a punchy carrot salad.
16:07It's a play on a mufaletta salad, the large format sandwich from New Orleans.
16:12It's got shredded carrot, roasted red peppers, olives, a little garlic, some secret spices that I can't mention here.
16:21Charles then shingles the eggplant in a single layer before adding some fresh mozzarella.
16:26This is awesome mozzarella.
16:28It comes from a company in Connecticut.
16:31They're making a mozzarella and ricotta for, I think, like 100 years.
16:36I love how much attention to detail you give to each element of the sandwich here, from the bread, the salad, the mozzarella, the eggplant.
16:41We really want to make people's day.
16:44I mean, for not a ton of money, you can make somebody's day, like, so much more amazing by having the bite into a sandwich like this.
16:52Yeah.
16:53Let's go give it a taste.
16:54All right.
17:02Matt, I just love every element of the sandwich is absolutely pitch perfect.
17:06The crunch and the sweetness in the carrots, like mild smokiness from the roasted peppers, the brineness of the olives, the hit of garlic.
17:12That's really just fantastic.
17:14And even, like, with the eggplant cooked like this, you don't miss meat at all in the sandwich.
17:19Yeah, no.
17:19This eggplant spucky, hands down, one of my favorite sandwiches of all time.
17:24Thank you for taking the time to show me how to make it.
17:26Got it.
17:28Charles and Rachel don't take life too seriously, except for when it comes to sandwiches.
17:32Their approach to food is infused with a playful curiosity and genuine thoughtfulness behind each ingredient.
17:39And their care and attention to detail is apparent in every bite.
17:52It has been so awesome to watch Rachel and Charles build that business from scratch.
17:57And I have such fond memories of all of us cooking and developing recipes in the kitchen.
18:00I know all of you helped me get my feet wet when I started developing recipes here at the kitchen.
18:05I remember.
18:05Yeah, I was just a wee lad.
18:07So I love their sandwich shop.
18:10I love everything on the menu.
18:11But for me, perhaps one of the greatest accomplishments they've made is this eggplant sandwich they have.
18:16All right, so let's get started.
18:17We're going to slice up one and a half pounds of eggplant into half-inch thick slices.
18:22So like you saw at Cutty's, they use a machine to cut the eggplant super thin.
18:26But at home, I think it's a little bit easier to cut the eggplant thicker in about half-inch thick slices, which come across nice and meaty in the sandwich.
18:34So half-inch slices.
18:38All right, so we have those sliced.
18:40We're going to throw these onto a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil, sprayed with a little bit of nonstick cooking spray.
18:45We'll just lay these on there.
18:47Okay, so we have the eggplant laid out here.
18:48And we're going to brush the eggplant on both sides with a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.
18:52And this is just to help with the browning in the oven.
18:55And eggplant and olive oil are really super close friends.
18:59All right, so we have eggplant brushed with olive oil on the first side.
19:03We have about three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt here, this table salt.
19:06We'll sprinkle this.
19:08We'll do the same on the second side.
19:10You just really need to encourage the browning with this.
19:15All right, and the remainder of the three-quarters of a teaspoon of table salt goes on top.
19:20Okay, so that's seasoned on the second side.
19:22Now we're going to throw the eggplant under the broiler.
19:24So we have the oven rack adjusted to six inches from the broiler element.
19:28The broiler is set to high.
19:29We're going to let it go for a good 14 minutes or so.
19:31Oh, wow.
19:31We're going to flip it about halfway through.
19:33What we're looking for is nicely browned eggplant that's really nice and tender and cooked through.
19:37Okay.
19:40Okay, so while the eggplant is broiling, we're going to work on the olive salad.
19:47Oh, this is the best part of the sandwich.
19:49It absolutely is.
19:50I love this salad.
19:51So at the restaurant, they use green olives.
19:53We're going to use kalamata olives.
19:55We just happen to like the pungency that they offer.
19:57So we have three-quarters of a cup of kalamata olives.
19:59These are pitted.
20:00And this is about half a cup of roasted red bell peppers.
20:03We've just kind of coarsely chopped.
20:06Half a cup of parsley leaves.
20:08A teaspoon of red wine vinegar.
20:12One garlic clove.
20:14Quarter teaspoon of red pepper flakes.
20:17And we have a quarter teaspoon of table salt in that.
20:20And we're just going to pulse this until it's nicely, coarsely chopped.
20:25And that takes about 10 to 12 pulses.
20:29About like that, I think.
20:31Okay.
20:31Nice.
20:32It's all chopped up, but you should still identify the pieces.
20:35We're going to add that to our bowl here.
20:38So now we have a cup of shredded carrots.
20:41We've shredded these on the large holes of box grater.
20:43It's about two carrots.
20:44And then to that, we're going to add two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.
20:48All right.
20:50It has been 14 minutes.
20:52We flip the eggplant once.
20:54Those look good, Brian.
20:55This is exactly what we want.
20:57Nicely browned, fully tender.
21:01All right.
21:01So we'll take these off of our tray here.
21:04And we're going to recycle our tray to toast our bread.
21:08So these are the rolls that they use at Cuddy's.
21:11These are ciabatta sandwich rolls.
21:13Perhaps my favorite sandwich roll ever.
21:15So good.
21:16So we're just going to split these in half lengthwise.
21:18If you didn't have it, you could obviously just buy a bigger ciabatta loaf.
21:22Exactly.
21:22Yeah, you totally could.
21:24Or, you know, just whatever sub-roll you like to use.
21:26This recipe makes enough for four sandwiches, but I'm just going to make the two for us.
21:29So I'm going to brush this bread with two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.
21:33So we're just going to throw this bread underneath the broiler for about two to five minutes
21:38until it's nicely toasted.
21:40And you have to pay attention because it goes from zero to 60 in no time at all.
21:43All right.
21:48All right.
21:49And that bread is perfect.
21:51Nicely toasted.
21:52So with that, we're going to add fresh mozzarella as if the sandwich couldn't get any better.
21:58I know.
21:58So we're going to use about three slices, about a quarter inch thick or so.
22:02Per sandwich.
22:04We're going to add about six tablespoons or so per sandwich.
22:09And we're going to divide it evenly between the two slices of bread.
22:16And we're going to layer on about three pieces of mozzarella per sandwich.
22:20Nicely shingled.
22:22Mm-hmm.
22:23And then about three pieces of eggplant per sandwich as well.
22:27Now we just have to cap our sandwiches.
22:29Give it a light press right across the middle.
22:39Oh.
22:40So good, isn't it?
22:41Yeah.
22:43Mm-mm-mm-mm.
22:47All right.
22:47Well, cheers.
22:48Yeah, cheers.
22:49It's just like I remember.
22:56Mm-hmm.
22:56Mm-hmm.
22:57The flavor of the relish.
22:58There's so much going on.
22:59The sweetness of the carrots and that little bit of crunch.
23:02Mm-hmm.
23:02And then that creamy eggplant.
23:04And then the smooth, mild mozzarella and the crunchy bread.
23:08You're making me hungry.
23:08Jeez.
23:09Mm-hmm.
23:12Man, is that good.
23:13You know what?
23:14That garlic, one clove.
23:16What?
23:16It just comes through.
23:17It comes right through.
23:18This is a great version.
23:21You're welcome.
23:22If you want to make this awesome vegetarian sandwich, broil one and a half pounds of eggplant.
23:28Use the food processor to make an olive and carrot relish and layer it all onto a toasted
23:34chiabatta roll with fresh mozzarella.
23:36From Cook's Country, with special thanks to Rachel and Charles, a Cuddy's-inspired eggplant
23:41spucky, you can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product
23:47reviews and select episodes at our website, CooksCountry.com slash TV.
23:52I'm so excited to know how to make this.
23:54It's a great sandwich and a great story, right?
23:56Mm-hmm.
23:57Mm-hmm.
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24:11Mm-hmm.
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