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America's Test Kitchen (2001) Season 26 Episode 8 - Pan-Seared Halibut and Ma'amoul

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00:00Humanities
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00:29Today on America's Test Kitchen, Ben makes Bridget pan-seared halibut with wilted bitter
00:43salad.
00:44Jack challenges Bridget and Julia to a head-to-head tasting of frozen puff pastry, and Erica makes
00:50Julia mamoo.
00:52It's all coming up right here on America's Test Kitchen.
00:59Sometimes, you gotta treat yourself right and make a fine dining experience in your own
01:09home kitchen.
01:10Well, lucky for me, today, I'm gonna get that fine dining experience thanks to Ben, who's
01:15inspired by a recipe from a recent trip.
01:18That's right, Bridget.
01:19I was in Paris recently, and I had an amazing salad while I was there, and I have a confession
01:23for you.
01:24I hate salads.
01:25I love you.
01:26This is a memorable meal for that reason, and it was a pile of cold bitter greens with
01:31like a hot salad dressing covering up a little monkfish filet.
01:35And so I wanted to recreate that dish at home because it made me so happy to be eating it.
01:38So the dish I had in Paris used monkfish filets, but at home, I wanted to use a fish that's
01:43a little easier.
01:44And so I use halibut here because it's nice and meaty, white fish, similar to the monkfish.
01:48But you truly could use salmon, you could use, honestly, catfish.
01:51You could use any kind of fish filet you want.
01:53You could even use chicken if you really wanted to.
01:55Hey!
01:56So I patted dry the halibut here, and I'm just gonna season it with a little bit of
01:59salt and pepper on both sides.
02:01So we are heating up about three tablespoons of olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high
02:06heat just until the oil is starting to smoke a little bit and kind of rippling on the surface.
02:10So I'm gonna add the halibut filets to the oil.
02:18So we're gonna let these cook for about eight to ten minutes.
02:20We're gonna be looking for 130 degrees on the inside, and we're gonna flip them about
02:24halfway through.
02:25And so while those are cooking, we're gonna prep the fennel.
02:27So we use one bulb of fennel, and what we're gonna do is actually use some of the fronds for
02:32the top of the salad greens, but then cook the bulb, and that kind of goes under the salad
02:36as well on top of the fish.
02:37So I'm gonna take about a quarter cup of these fennel fronds here, and you can just
02:41kind of tear them off with your hands and pack them into this little quarter cup measure
02:44here.
02:45Then I just wanna trim off these stalks here just to keep up a nice even bulb.
02:50I'll take all these fronds, put it back out of the way here.
02:54And then for this bulb, I'm gonna trim off the end here just to make it nice and flat.
02:58And then I'm gonna cut the fennel bulb lengthwise into about half-inch pieces, which ends up
03:02being about 12 wedges.
03:05Makes nice little even wedges, and cutting through the core helps to keep everything
03:07together, because we're gonna be frying and flipping these later.
03:10Got it.
03:11So I'm just gonna add these to the bowl here.
03:13Okay, so the halibut has been cooking for about four to five minutes now, so it's time
03:17to flip.
03:18So I'm just gonna flip over each filet, and that's what you want.
03:23Nice light golden brown sear.
03:24They're nothing too dark.
03:25So now that those are flipped over, I'm gonna move it back on the heat.
03:28And we're gonna continue cooking for about five more minutes until it reaches about 130
03:33degrees.
03:34Perfect.
03:35Well done.
03:36We're gonna transfer all these fillets to plates.
03:39So this is a nice, like, kind of single-serving piece of fish for each person, you know,
03:44so...
03:45You're starting the restaurant plating.
03:46I love it.
03:47Exactly.
03:48You got it.
03:49So now to the skillet that's still here.
03:50It still has a little bit of oil in it, but that's okay.
03:52Yes.
03:53We're gonna add a little more oil to cook our fennel.
03:55So we're gonna heat this over medium heat.
03:58I'm gonna add the fennel wedges.
04:00These will cook for about 10 minutes, and we'll stuff them about halfway through.
04:04Okay.
04:05We're gonna make sure they're really nice and caramelized and tender on both sides.
04:08Meanwhile, we're gonna start making the greens for the salad.
04:11So this is our salad that has two cups of arugula right here, nice and green and crunchy
04:16and a little bitter.
04:17And then we're also gonna have some radicchio and endive.
04:19So I'm just gonna tear each of these leaves probably in half and just make, like, kind
04:23of big leaves.
04:24So we're gonna add these to the bowl of arugula.
04:27And now I'm going to trim the endive.
04:29What I like to do is just trim off the root end here and then cut the entire head in half
04:35crosswise.
04:36That just gives you slightly smaller pieces so you don't have these, like, big spears
04:38you're tackling.
04:39And then I just kind of pull the leaves apart one by one.
04:43And then I'm just gonna toss these together with my hands just to make sure they're nice
04:46and mixed.
04:47Bridget, the fennel has been cooking for about 10 minutes now.
04:51As you can see, it's lovely golden brown.
04:53It's starting to soften.
04:54So we're gonna leave the fennel in the pan and continue cooking while we make the sauce
04:58around it.
04:59So what I'm gonna add is I have one shallot that's been finely minced.
05:03And then also I have three cloves of garlic that I minced up as well, and we mince them
05:07because we want them to cook really fast.
05:09Okay.
05:10This is gonna cook for about two minutes just until they're soft.
05:15So now it's time to make the dressing.
05:16So we're gonna pour in about three quarters of a cup of dry white wine, anything that you
05:20love to drink.
05:21Then we're gonna add two thirds of a cup of lemon juice.
05:23I know it sounds like a lot, but it's dressing for four servings and also the acid really cuts
05:27through the bitterness of the greens that we have over here as well.
05:30Got it.
05:31And the sweetness of the fennel, so it's really nice.
05:32But also just to make sure that it's not too acidic, we're gonna add three tablespoons
05:36of water.
05:37The nice secret ingredient in a lot of salad dressings is water because it helps kind of
05:40cut through how intense they can be.
05:42Sure.
05:43So we're gonna add that as well.
05:44I'm just gonna bring this up to the simmer.
05:45We're gonna let that go for about two minutes just until it reduces a little bit and gets
05:49nice and thick.
05:50Great.
05:51So the sauce has been nice and reduced, as you can see, and it's like bubbling, which
05:54looks really lovely.
05:55So the final touch to make it really French, but also to make it taste great, is we're
06:00gonna add two tablespoons of Dijon mustard.
06:02This helps to kind of emulsify the dressing and just adds that lovely flavor.
06:07So now that the mustard is in, I'm just gonna kill the heat, season it with just salt and
06:11pepper.
06:12Mmm.
06:13That's perfect.
06:14Doesn't that smell wonderful?
06:15It smells beautiful.
06:17So now I'm going to take those fennel wedges, and we're gonna remove these from the sauce,
06:23and we're gonna plate these on top of the fish.
06:25Okay.
06:26So put about three or so on top of each fish filet.
06:28We're gonna come back to that in one second because we want to dress the salad first.
06:32So we're gonna add a little bit of olive oil, about two tablespoons, to the salad greens,
06:37and then also about a teaspoon and a half of lemon juice.
06:40This just kind of makes like a pre-vinaigrette for the salad.
06:44And season with a little salt and pepper.
06:46Okay, so now the salad is nice and dressed.
06:51It's time to place it on top of the fish.
06:52I actually like to use my hands for this.
06:54So I just take, you know, a small handful here, just kind of let it fall artfully over
06:59the top of the fish as much as possible.
07:01If any leaves go off to the side, just kind of bring them back up or let them go as they
07:05are.
07:06I like to drizzle around the outside first and then kind of finish up right in the center
07:09to make sure the fish below gets all that dressing as well.
07:13We're gonna come back to those fennel fronds that we had earlier.
07:15Tear them up a little bit just to give a nice little final flourish.
07:20We're gonna add a little bit of sea salt on top as well, just because it is a French restaurant dish.
07:25Of course it has to have some flaky sea salt on top.
07:27It's the law.
07:28It's the law, exactly.
07:29And then to further go the lily, just because we want to make sure it shines brightly, we're
07:33going to add just another little drizzle of olive oil.
07:36Because remember, we have all that lemon juice in there as well, and the bitter greens.
07:39Just want to make sure everything is nicely balanced.
07:43All right, go for a little bit of this endive.
07:49It's not too tart, but it cuts through, which is really nice.
07:52And it's just softened a little bit.
07:54Yeah.
07:55Gorgeous.
07:55All right.
07:56I've got to find some fish.
07:57Yep.
07:58There it is.
07:59It's a surprise.
08:04That's how all halibut should be, should be served.
08:07Bright and punchy, tangy.
08:10Because it's pretty neutral fish, so it goes really well with
08:13soaking up all these kind of acidic, bright flavors.
08:15I love the sweetness of the fennel here as well with the bitter greens.
08:18It's really nice.
08:19Six stars.
08:20Oh, fantastic.
08:21Way beyond five.
08:22It's just gorgeous.
08:24Thank you so much for showing us how to make this.
08:25Of course.
08:26My pleasure.
08:26Well, if you want to make Ben's fabulous salad at home, it starts by sauteing halibut until
08:31golden brown, cook fennel wedges in the same skillet, and then arrange with dress greens
08:36and spin the warm vinaigrette over to finish.
08:39So from America's Test Kitchen, a la Che Ben, it's pan-seared halibut with wilted bitter salad.
08:46All right.
08:48Seven stars.
08:48Okay, you gave me the seven.
08:49Yes.
08:50Thank you so much.
08:54So we're talking puff pastry.
08:58This is super simple.
09:00Some brands have butter, some brands don't.
09:03They have vegetable shortening or vegetable oil.
09:06There are brands here with butter.
09:07I want you to find those brands, okay?
09:09Okay.
09:10Find the butter.
09:10Find the butter.
09:12It's a flavor thing, right?
09:13I mean, it's going to taste better with butter.
09:16The second choice you have to make, which does make a difference when you are rolling it out,
09:20is the format inside the box.
09:22So there are now some brands that come rolled, which is nice because there are no creases.
09:27And as you guys know, when you're rolling out puff pastry and you have to unfold it,
09:31those creases can sometimes have stress points and break.
09:35Some of them are larger.
09:36So this has several folds, but when it unfolds, it's very large, which is nice because you have
09:40to do less rolling.
09:42And this is probably the least desirable, the sort of narrow letter format because you've got a lot
09:47of creases and it still doesn't get you that much puff pastry on a single sheet.
09:51The other thing is we thought, oh, there's a brand now that's not frozen.
09:54It's just refrigerated.
09:55Wouldn't that be convenient?
09:56You don't need to plan the night before, put it into the refrigerator, which is what you want
10:00to do with the frozen brands.
10:01We found that the refrigerated brands stuck a lot.
10:04And so we're still recommending that you plan ahead, put the box in the refrigerator the day
10:10before you want to actually use it, but that the frozen brands are a little easier to work with.
10:14So there are going to be lots of crumbs everywhere.
10:16Don't worry.
10:17Are you noticing any flavor differences?
10:19I'm going to start with you, Julia.
10:21If you put blue cheese and walnuts on these and made a tart, I don't know that I'd be able
10:25to tell a difference.
10:26If you're using something with strong flavors, I think this would be pretty much
10:29be passable.
10:30Any of them would be in my house.
10:32Yeah.
10:32We didn't think anything was unacceptable.
10:34We did think the brands with butter had an advantage.
10:38I mean, I can see that they're-
10:39I've made a mess, first of all.
10:41They're all quite flaky.
10:43I really liked C.
10:44Oh, okay.
10:45Even though that's the one that's left on the plate, I was like-
10:47I had to go back to make sure I liked these others as much.
10:50D, I liked D.
10:51It had a familiar sort of sweet finish that I liked.
10:54A was pretty good too.
10:56B was my least favorite.
10:58Okay, so C is your favorite?
11:00C is my favorite.
11:01And what are you thinking, Bridget?
11:02Yeah, they're all beautifully crisp.
11:04Nice browning.
11:05Some were browner than others.
11:06I suspect milk solids might be the culprit there.
11:10Maybe.
11:10Don't know.
11:12But there was some puff difference in these, definitely.
11:15I think my favorite was probably C.
11:18I actually didn't mind B.
11:19A was a little bland for me.
11:22Do I have to pick one?
11:22I'm going to make you pick one.
11:25All right.
11:28I'm just going to go with A.
11:29You're both winners in different ways.
11:32A and C are the butter brands.
11:34So A is Trader Joe's.
11:37This is all butter.
11:38Now, it's not necessarily available 12 months a year.
11:40So if you shop at Trader Joe's and you see it, you should buy it and keep it in the freezer.
11:45It is half the price of C, which is the DeFore, the other all-butter brand that you liked,
11:50that is available pretty widely in supermarkets, but literally is twice the price of the Trader Joe's.
11:55So I went twice.
11:57They were the favorites because they had the butter.
12:00And so the DeFore, which is the classic that professionals use,
12:04the Trader Joe's was a kind of revelation that it was half the price.
12:07So the other two brands, so B is the Pepperidge Farm.
12:10So this is the classic.
12:11You know, it's not a bad choice.
12:13I mean, as you were saying, put blue cheese, you know, tart or pot pie.
12:19It will be fine.
12:20And then D is the just roll.
12:23So there's another one that unrolls, but this is the refrigerator one.
12:26And again, we just found it would stick a little bit more to the counter.
12:29And so you may want to be a little bit more generous with the flour if you end up buying that brand.
12:33But that said, if you're going to go buy this,
12:36get a brand with butter if you can find it in the supermarket.
12:40So mine had butter.
12:42It was cheaper and no fissures on it.
12:45I'm the triple winner.
12:46Mine was French.
12:47Mammul is a traditional Middle Eastern cookie that's made with semolina flour,
13:01filled with either nuts or dates, and often shaped using a hand-carved wooden mold.
13:07And today, Erica is going to tell us more.
13:09Mammul are one of the first things that I ate when I moved to Jerusalem.
13:12Oh, wow.
13:12And I absolutely love them.
13:14They're festive, the ultimate sign of hospitality, and just really fun to make.
13:19Let's get started with our dough.
13:21In my bowl, I have two cups plus three tablespoons of semolina flour,
13:25and six tablespoons of all-purpose flour.
13:27Okay.
13:28So traditionally, doughs are just all semolina, but we found that the combination of the two
13:33provides structure and also keeps the dough from being too crumbly.
13:36Okay.
13:36So I'm going to whisk that together.
13:39And here I have a special spice.
13:41This is called mahleb.
13:42Mahleb.
13:43Yes.
13:44And would you like to give that a whip for me?
13:46Let me know what you think.
13:46Oh, it kind of has a brown, sugary, nutmeg-y sort of nutty quality to it.
13:52So mahleb is actually made from cherry kernels found inside of cherry pits.
13:57Sold either whole or ground like we have here at specialty stores or online.
14:02This is a quarter teaspoon of ground mahleb.
14:05And I'll whisk that all together.
14:08And to our flours, I have 12 tablespoons of softened unsalted butter.
14:13Mm-hmm.
14:14And a third of a cup of honey.
14:18Three tablespoons of orange blossom water.
14:21Oh.
14:21And three tablespoons of rose water.
14:24Oh, they're so fragrant.
14:25Even the bowls left over are fragrant.
14:27They are.
14:28They're very fragrant.
14:29They are very aromatic.
14:31But they're just going to lightly scent the dough.
14:34Everything is going to work together and really give a very light taste.
14:37I can't wait.
14:38All right.
14:38So now I'm going to use my hands to just work the butter and the wet ingredients
14:42into the semolina and the all-purpose flour.
14:45But just until it's nice and cohesive.
14:46Okay.
14:49Now we have our dough complete.
14:51I'm just going to cover it with plastic wrap.
14:53And it needs to sit at room temperature for four hours until it fully hydrates.
14:56Okay.
14:58So semolina flour has a lot of protein.
15:01Which, if it was wheat flour, would make a lot of gluten in a very tough cookie.
15:05So why do these cookies bake up so tender?
15:08Our mamul dough consists of both semolina and, in order to keep the gluten content down,
15:14only a little bit of all-purpose flour.
15:17The flours are mixed by hand with butter and liquid ingredients.
15:20Then the dough is covered tightly with plastic wrap to rest.
15:24During the four-hour rest, the flour particles hydrate and form a gluten web
15:28that hold the dough together.
15:30But the semolina particles are much larger and simply soften as they hydrate.
15:35The protein strands inside the pieces of semolina remain separate from the gluten network in the dough.
15:40And thus, they won't make the cookie tough.
15:43So it's the combination of semolina and all-purpose flour
15:47that give us just the right amount of gluten development for that iconic tender texture.
15:52We have our dough.
15:53Let's make our filling.
15:54Okay.
15:55I have three quarters of a cup of raw shell pistachios, half a teaspoon of ground anise seed,
16:02half a teaspoon of ground cinnamon, a quarter teaspoon of ground mahlep.
16:07So it's in the filling and the dough.
16:08Yep.
16:08You've got it.
16:09It's a double cameo.
16:12Quarter teaspoon of table salt.
16:14Now, I'll just process this until the pistachio pieces are about a quarter of an inch.
16:19It's going to take about five to seven pulses.
16:22Our pistachios look great.
16:23Now it's time for our dates.
16:25Okay.
16:25I have seven ounces of pitted medjool dates.
16:28And traditionally, you wouldn't combine dates and nuts together when making mahmoul.
16:33But we really love the flavor and texture combo of the two of them.
16:37Three tablespoons of softened unsalted butter.
16:40And a tablespoon of honey.
16:45Now, I'm just going to process this again until we get a nice, smooth cohesive paste.
16:50Okay.
16:50It's going to take about 20 seconds.
16:53And as you can see, the pistachio pieces are about an eighth to a sixteenth of an inch.
17:00And that's important because when it comes time to shaping,
17:02we don't want the filling to poke through the dough.
17:04Gotcha.
17:05So I'm just going to cover this with some plastic wrap.
17:07And we're going to pop it into the refrigerator until we're ready to use it.
17:10Okay.
17:12It's been four hours.
17:13Our dough has fully hydrated.
17:15Now let's finish it off.
17:17In my bowl, I have three tablespoons of milk that we warmed in the microwave,
17:21and a quarter teaspoon of table salt.
17:23To that, I'm going to add in half a teaspoon of instant yeast.
17:27I'm just going to whisk it all together.
17:29And I'll add this milk and yeast mixture right to the dough and just mix it together until it's nice and cohesive.
17:38It's about 30 seconds.
17:39Okay.
17:39Now I'm just going to turn the dough onto the counter.
17:45And I'll knead the dough for two minutes until it's nice and soft.
17:49And at first, it looks like it's starting to stick.
17:52It might seem like we made a mistake, but as we continue to knead, it's going to come together.
17:59I think we're just about there.
18:01There's still going to be a little bit of softness to it, but that's okay,
18:04because we're going to let it rest again.
18:05So I'm going to take my dough and place it back in the bowl.
18:10I'll cover it again with plastic wrap, and I want to let it rest for another 30 minutes.
18:15We have our dough.
18:17We have our filling.
18:19Now it's time to assemble our mamut.
18:21Let's start with the filling.
18:22We need 30 equal portions.
18:24Each of them need to be half an ounce.
18:26So what I like to do is just take a piece and weigh it.
18:31There's a little bit extra.
18:32I'm going to pinch off a bit.
18:34That's exactly five.
18:36So I'll just roll it into a ball and place it on our prepared baking sheet.
18:41Okay.
18:42Julia, do you mind working on the filling?
18:44And I can pivot to the dough?
18:45You bet.
18:46All right.
18:46I appreciate it.
18:48All right.
18:48So our dough, ooh, it's really nice and soft and elastic.
18:52So now I'm just going to cut it into two equal pieces and roll each piece into a 15-inch log.
19:02That looks great.
19:04And then I just want 15 equal pieces.
19:06Okay.
19:06I'm going to make 30 dough balls to match our 30 balls of filling.
19:22Julia, we have our tray of the balls of dough and the balls of filling.
19:26You did a great job, by the way.
19:27So now it's time to put them both together.
19:30So I'm going to take a ball of the dough, press it into the palm of my hands to create a three-inch round,
19:36working pretty quickly so the heat of my hands doesn't transfer onto the dough.
19:41Then I'll take a ball of the filling, place it right in the middle,
19:44pull up the sides of the dough all around the filling to completely cover it.
19:50Then I'll just pinch the top and roll it into a ball until it's nice and smooth.
19:57Now it's time for my favorite part.
20:00This is called a kalab.
20:01It's a traditional wood hand-carved mold that's made with beautiful intricate designs
20:06and different styles are used to denote what type of filling is in our mamoul.
20:10So for date filling, traditionally, you'd see a round flat top.
20:13For pistachio, you'd see an oval.
20:15And for walnut, you would see a cone shape.
20:17Oh, very cool. So you could just look and tell what's inside each cookie.
20:20Exactly. And you can find them online or in specialty stores.
20:25But if you can't find them, you can also use a small bowl
20:27with an eighth of a cup capacity lined with plastic wrap.
20:30So we take our dough ball that's been filled, place it right in the center,
20:34press down with either your fingers or the palm of your hand,
20:38just until it's flushed to the edges.
20:41And here's where the magic happens.
20:43Just take it and tap it on the countertop to release it.
20:48Oh! Voila! Isn't that cool?
20:50Voila! That's beautiful.
20:52Right? So much fun.
20:54So I'm just going to use my offset spatula to carefully transfer it onto the baking sheet.
20:58Kind of tuck it in there.
21:00Now we do have to keep the rest of these covered.
21:02So I just have a damp dish towel here, but I'll just place right on top.
21:07Oh, otherwise they dry out and be hard to shape.
21:09Exactly.
21:10Gotcha. All right. So we've got some cookies to make.
21:12We do.
21:12All right, here we go.
21:14Oh, you're such a pro at these.
21:18It's so much fun to slam the collab on the counter to release the cookie.
21:23It really is. It's actually one of my favorite parts.
21:26And the beauty of when you make these in community is all you hear is this slamming, slamming, slamming and chit chat.
21:33Julia, these mamool look amazing.
21:35We have two trays, 15 mamool each.
21:38They need to bake.
21:39Our ovens have been preheating to 350 degrees.
21:42They'll bake on the middle rack and they need to bake one tray at a time.
21:46Since we're in the test kitchen, we have two ovens.
21:48We do.
21:49We'll take advantage of both of them.
21:50They'll bake for 16 to 20 minutes and we'll rotate them halfway through.
21:54So one tray for the bottom, one tray for the top oven?
21:56Yes.
22:02Ooh.
22:02Those smell delicious.
22:04Aren't they?
22:07We know that the cookies are ready because they're nice and lightly golden brown around the edges.
22:11And then if we pick them up and look on the bottom, you can see that they're also nicely browned.
22:15Oh yeah.
22:16Okay.
22:18So they do need to cool for about 20 minutes and then it'll be time to finish them off.
22:22Okay.
22:22And now it's time to finish off the mamool with some powdered sugar.
22:26Oh, pretty.
22:28I'm just going to lightly dust so you can still see that beautiful intricate design.
22:33It's a touch of elegance really, but it also adds a little extra sweetness
22:38because all we have in there for sweetness is a little bit of honey and the dates.
22:42Now it's time for the best part.
22:44I know.
22:44I was waiting.
22:45This one.
22:52There is so much flavor in here.
22:54Mm-hmm.
22:54You taste the dates and the pistachios.
22:56Mm-hmm.
22:57But then the spices and the rose water and the orange water.
23:01You wouldn't be able to pick them out necessarily.
23:03Right.
23:03But they give you this fragrant backbone and it's not too sweet.
23:07Yes.
23:08Which I love.
23:09Me too.
23:10They're really just so simple and feel very nourishing somehow as well for cookie.
23:16Mm-hmm.
23:17Erica, these are delicious and really fun to make.
23:20Oh, my pleasure.
23:21Thanks for making them with me.
23:22If you want to make this traditional Middle Eastern cookie, start by making a dough by hand
23:27using semolina and all-purpose flour.
23:30Grind the pistachio date filling to a fine paste in a food processor.
23:34Then use a mold to seal and decorate the cookies.
23:37From America's Test Kitchen, a delicious recipe for mamul.
23:41You can find this recipe and all of the recipes from this season,
23:45along with our product reviews and select episodes at our website,
23:48America's Test Kitchen dot com slash TV.
23:52This and a cup of tea.
23:53Oh, that'd be a nice afternoon.
23:55Mm-hmm.
23:56Indeed.
23:56Oh, that'd be nice.
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