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Sailing the Shipping Forecast with The Rev Richard Coles - Season 1 Episode 4
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05:09And then Queen Mary, over a number of years, saw sick and injured sailors coming back from war
05:16and then turned it into the Royal Hospital for sailors.
05:19It's incredibly grand, isn't it?
05:21I mean, it was quite a thing as an expression of gratitude
05:24for people who fought in the, you know, those kind of various wars of conquest.
05:28Well, it's Britain's naval history.
05:32It was in 1694 that Queen Mary commissioned Sir Christopher Wren
05:36to build a hospital for old and infirm naval servicemen.
05:43And what a hospital.
05:48And if this weren't enough, just look at where the old boys used to eat their dinner.
05:53Welcome to the, to the painted hall.
05:56They went off stating their case. It's amazing.
06:00It's fabulous.
06:01So this was where the Royal Navy offices and those sailors that obviously come back wounded,
06:06this was their dining room.
06:08And during the renovation, stories of how much gravy they actually removed from the ceiling is fascinating.
06:13So, so even the last sort of hundred years has had its impact and, and revealed some...
06:18Of course, it'd be a competition, wouldn't it? Have you flicked, right?
06:20Yeah, that's it.
06:21It's just astonishing. Everywhere you look, your eyes kind of drawn into this story again.
06:25It's, you've got the bow of a ship there as well, haven't we?
06:28A ship of the line, flying the red ends in.
06:37Not just a naval icon, the building is now home to budding sailors of the future.
06:42Yes, there we are. So my, my sea cadets outside, ready to do colours.
06:46I'm going to get the colours to you.
06:48Ship!
06:50Division!
06:51Turn it on!
06:52Right!
06:53Turn!
06:54A former naval man himself, Chris is now in charge of the Greenwich branch of the sea cadets.
07:01Started in 1856 to help orphans of the Crimean War.
07:06Today, the sea cadets offer teenagers the chance to learn life skills, both on and off the water.
07:14So, welcome. I'll introduce you to some of my sea cadets.
07:17But first, we'd just like to welcome you on board as you would do on a naval vessel at sea.
07:21Thank you.
07:32Wow, what an honour. Thank you.
07:33What we're going to be doing now, so when we meet, same as the Navy in the morning,
07:36we're going to be doing a ceremony of colours, and then the evening is repeated by doing evening colours.
07:40So that's the tradition, isn't it? It's, it's, it's the, the greeting and the farewell to the flag,
07:46a reminder of what you're for and why you're here.
07:48Yeah, and essentially sets the start, it's the start of the formal working day,
07:51although there's people working 24-7.
07:53Right.
07:54Division! Time!
07:56Time!
07:57So our parade commander brings them to attention.
07:59Down comes the little pennant.
08:00Come down to the little pennant, which tells other ships around it, it's one minute to colours.
08:03So everyone now knows.
08:04So everybody now knows.
08:07And then they pipe the still, which is a different call to what you would have just had.
08:11So traditionally eight seconds.
08:12And then the ensign is hoisted for the length of, obviously for the day at sea and for us and the sea cadets for the length of our meeting.
08:28And that means you're now in business, right?
08:30Yeah.
08:31And everyone knows where they are and what they're doing.
08:32And everyone knows where they are and what they're doing.
08:33Yeah.
08:34And hopefully you'll never see a union flag flown upside down, which shows that a ship is in distress or surrendering.
08:43You see all the time around my way.
08:45Nobody knows the right way up for a union flag.
08:47Yeah.
08:48And often referred to as a union jack.
08:50But a union jack is only a union jack when it's flown under and the bow of a ship on a jack staff.
08:55I didn't know that.
08:56I knew union flag was right, but I didn't know why.
08:58Basically, if you want to know anything, ask the Royal Navy.
09:00Ah, correct.
09:01OK.
09:02Yeah.
09:03Time!
09:04Three, four!
09:07Taking kids from age 10 to 18, there are currently 15,000 sea cadets nationwide.
09:19And it's not all marching and flags.
09:25As the name suggests, the sea cadets also spend a lot of time out on the water.
09:29So I've travelled slightly upriver to Surrey docks, where Cadet Lucas is waiting to show me the ropes.
09:39Hey, Lucas.
09:40Hello.
09:41How are you doing?
09:42Very good, thank you. How are you?
09:43Now, you are the commanding officer of this vessel.
09:46Yes, I am.
09:47What is it?
09:48So this is a quest commonly used for two-person going out onto the water.
09:52This would be a good learner's boat.
09:54This is definitely a good learner's boat, especially if we want to get better with being a crew member.
09:58OK.
09:59Or commanding crew.
10:00Easy for Lucas to say.
10:02He and his fellow cadets are here once a week during the summer, clocking up around 40 hours afloat a year.
10:09That is the main sail.
10:10So if you want to go at an optimal speed in every wind, you usually pull the sail in when you're going upwind.
10:16OK.
10:17And you let it out to give you more surface area going downwind.
10:20You sound very good at this, Lucas.
10:22I've been sailing for five or six years.
10:26But what age are you now?
10:2716.
10:28So you've been sailing since you were ten?
10:30Yeah, around then.
10:31Can I do anything useful now to prepare the boat?
10:33So if you come over this side of the boat here, we have the rudder.
10:38Right.
10:39Now, we need to get this rudder onto these two bits here.
10:44OK.
10:45So what we want to do here is we want to move these two bolts here into the holes here.
10:50I got it.
10:53Do they click in?
10:54Yeah, it should give you a click.
10:56And once you've done that, there's a little latch here that you'll want to place this and let go so that this isn't obviously dragging along the water.
11:03Thank you.
11:04That's been very helpful.
11:05What about the pointy end?
11:07I know it's technical.
11:08OK.
11:09Would you mind the boom, of course?
11:10How many times have you been whacked on the head by a boom?
11:12Oh, a lot.
11:13Yeah.
11:14It was only recently that I got whacked by a boom and fell into the water.
11:18Oh, blimey.
11:19Now you tell me.
11:20I like sailing close to the wind, which is when your boat is very far up.
11:25So I have a reputation among my fellow sea cadets of falling into the water a lot because there's not much leeway.
11:32way for you to not fall in.
11:34Can you think of a reason why they wanted you to be the person who took me out on this boat?
11:41Despite his thrill-seeking tendencies, Lucas has been sailing solo for the last two seasons and is now an assistant instructor.
11:50So I'm in safe hands.
11:52It's me I'm not so confident about.
12:02Here in shipping area Thames, shore leave is well and truly over.
12:08That's taking a lot of effort.
12:09As I get ready to weigh anchor with sea cadet Lucas.
12:13When we've got the boat on the water, what we want to do is we want to get the rudder, get into the water, push it down until it does that.
12:21Yeah.
12:22And then click it in.
12:23That's not going anywhere.
12:24We can steer.
12:25Yeah.
12:26Yeah.
12:29How's that?
12:30Now, do you remember these two ropes here?
12:33Now, what I'll have you do for whilst we're sailing along, you will control the jib.
12:39So put on the right rope at the moment and let go more on the left.
12:44On the other side.
12:45There we go.
12:46That's good.
12:47We're off.
12:48Instantly, I'm amazed by how quiet and peaceful it is.
12:53If it weren't for Canary Wharf looming up ahead, I'd easily forget I'm in London.
13:01So you said you didn't have much experience in sailing.
13:04Zero.
13:05You've never been sailing before?
13:06No.
13:07When I was a kid, my Uncle Bob, he built a dinghy and he took me out in that.
13:11And then I've been on a bigger yacht in the south of France where that had a crew.
13:15Oh, OK.
13:16So I love being in them, but I didn't know anything about how to do them.
13:20Do you see what I mean?
13:21Yeah.
13:22Actually, it's great.
13:26Now, we're going to tack.
13:27And what you say is ready about, and the crew say ready.
13:30Ready.
13:31And then we tack.
13:33Get around.
13:38And hey, presto, we're on the other side.
13:42Oh, that's lovely.
13:43So, after Sea Cadets, what have you planned for the future, Lucas?
13:48So, after Sea Cadets, I plan to use that as a stepping stone to get into the Navy.
13:53Right.
13:54Because you have more chance of getting into the Navy if you're in Sea Cadets,
13:57because that naval background, the tasks that you do and stuff like that.
14:01So, you've already shown competence and interest.
14:04And especially with my interest in wanting to become a pilot, it's paramount that I do well in the Sea Cadets and contribute.
14:13When you say pilot, you don't mean your ship's pilot, you mean an aircraft pilot.
14:16Yeah, I mean like an aircraft pilot with the ship.
14:19The waiting list to become one is very long, like five to ten years, but I'm determined to do so.
14:26It's been a delight to spend the afternoon with Lucas, and certainly very grounding at the age of 63 to be so completely shown up by the superior knowledge and skill of a 16-year-old.
14:43So, that was my first sailing lesson with a very masterly teacher in Lucas, so thank him for that.
14:54It's a bit like cricket, nothing happens for ages and then it all goes mental.
14:58So, there was a lot of shifting sides which he could do much more athletically than I could.
15:02But it's the first lesson that made me want to have a second lesson actually,
15:06because the bit where you're just going along, gliding along, is a very nice feeling indeed.
15:11I just wish I'd done it sooner.
15:12Leaving London behind, my voyage through the Thames shipping area continues 80 miles north along the coast,
15:25and 23 miles out to sea.
15:34This is the MSC Rose.
15:37364 metres long and 51 metres wide, she's more than two and a half times the size of a football pitch.
15:50She's currently en route to her final destination, the port of Felixstone.
15:55And because of her size, there's only one person who can safely bring her into dock.
16:03Here we are Richard, the Harbour Masters Jesse here, the Harbour Masters Pound.
16:07And today, it's Jonathan, one of the 30 pilots based at Harwich Haven Authority, a trust port in Essex.
16:16Don't worry, I've not confused my modes of transport.
16:19A maritime pilot is the person who goes aboard a ship to guide it safely to Harbour.
16:23We're making good speed, Jonathan, in… this is the Harbour pilot's vessel.
16:40That's correct, yep.
16:41So, we're on with St Christopher.
16:43Matt, our coxswain, has taken us out, and we're doing about 24 knots, which for a seagoing cross, quick.
16:49So, it's going to take us 45 minutes to get out to the ship.
16:52Blimey!
16:53So, that's where the deeper water is, and we're probably going to board her in about 60 miles offshore by the time we get there.
17:00But that's as far in as she can come without your help?
17:03Absolutely, yeah. Then the channel becomes shallower, and then she needs my guidance or assistance.
17:13Most UK ports require a pilot for ships above a certain size.
17:17Armed with intimate knowledge of tides, channels and hidden hazards, they work with the ship's captain to see her safely into Harbour.
17:28So, when you're on board, do you kind of trump the master?
17:32The definition of being a pilot is a person who's got the conduct of the navigation, but he doesn't belong to the crew, so the captain is still the captain.
17:40He could override me, but I then take over the conduct of the navigation. I give the helm orders, the engine movements, whatever is needed.
17:49That could be an interesting moment, couldn't it, if there were a clash of personalities? I'm sure there never is with you, Jonathan.
17:54It can be, because, you know, you're going on a ship, and in fact, you've got a plan of action which you've got to impose, if you like, on the ship and say, this is what we're going to do.
18:04Pilots have been around for centuries, in fact, there's references to them from ancient Greece.
18:11Back then, they were typically fishermen or seafarers with knowledge of local conditions, but today, it can take up to seven years of training to get to Jonathan's level.
18:22We're going to go onto this container ship today, but when they leave the Far East, some of the larger ones are carrying somewhere in the region of a billion dollars' worth of cargo on board.
18:30What's in it?
18:33Everything you can imagine, whether that's car parts, electronics, probably the cameras that are filming us now, that originated from the Far East and came in that journey.
18:42So what I'm wearing, what he's using?
18:44Clothing, everything.
18:46Amazing. Today is a fine day, which I'm very grateful for, a smooth trip for us today.
18:52But just weather, presumably, does it make a big difference about whether ships can put in or not?
18:55Absolutely. Here in the North Sea, it's quite shallow, and the wind direction has a huge effect on how the swell or how high the seas are.
19:06And certainly working with the coxswains, sometimes it becomes untenable.
19:10We can't create a perfect leave for us to get alongside, and it's unsafe.
19:13With millions of pounds of cargo on board, I'm keeping all fingers crossed that the weather stays calm and Jonathan can get on board.
19:25I'm in shipping area Thames, making my way from Harwich on the Essex coast to the container ship MSC Rose, now 16 miles out to sea.
19:46MSC Rose, good morning. I will be with you in approximately five minutes.
19:54And as the full 364 metres looms into view, it feels more like we're approaching a small city.
20:03A recommended boarding course when safe to do so, 270 degrees, 270, speed of six to seven knots.
20:10We've got one pilot to board on your starboard side.
20:17The 16-metre-long pilot launch is specially built for pilotage.
20:24Note that there are no handrails.
20:27This is because they may become damaged when alongside vessels,
20:30so instead the crew must clip on with a safety tether to stop them going overboard.
20:35Jonathan, it's livelier than I thought it would be.
20:39You're not just hopping from one craft to another. How are you going to get on board that ship?
20:43So, you're right, Richard, once we go past this ship, we're going to go round the stern.
20:47You'll see a small door in the shell plating, which I'm going to go through, which gives me access into the ship.
20:54If this ship was lighter in the water, I'd have to use a rope ladder to get on board.
20:59So you either leap like a gazelle or you clamber up like a monkey?
21:02Absolutely. So we're allowed to climb nine and a half metres unaided up the side of a ship.
21:07So it's just a rope ladder. Yeah, that's correct.
21:09So what you don't want to do is fall in, obviously.
21:12Yes. But that must happen, surely?
21:14Sadly, it does. Not very often.
21:17But there are, throughout the world, instances where we've had fatalities of pilots.
21:22They fall in the water or they fall onto pilot launches and it does happen, unfortunately. Yes, it does.
21:26This is a high-stakes job. It was just two years ago that a UK pilot lost his life while transferring to a vessel.
21:40Even on a sunny day like today, the thought of climbing aboard a ship like this is incredibly daunting.
21:46I can only imagine what it must be like when the sea is rough or it's pouring with rain.
21:53I mean, just looking at it, it's extraordinary. It's like, I mean, it's huge. How many containers?
21:59Well, several thousand on here. And let's say this one's got a draft of 16 and a half metres.
22:03So it's one of the deepest that can come to the UK.
22:06It's an amazing thing. I had no idea they were so big.
22:08So here's the hatchway, so this is my bit now coming up, so I'll be boarding shortly.
22:17It's the job of Cox and Matt to bring the pilot boat as close to the MSC rows as possible.
22:23He'll utilise the specially designed fenders that will let the launch get alongside without damaging the hull.
22:30Right, well, I hope you have a lovely time.
22:33Thanks very much.
22:34Do you want to bring it back?
22:39Travelling at a steady rate of seven knots, around eight miles per hour,
22:44Matt must match the speed of the MSC rows perfectly so that Jonathan is able to step safely across.
22:53Consummate artist. That was very elegant, Jonathan.
22:58See you. Bye, folks.
22:59It's just extraordinary.
23:01A little door opens in the side of this enormous ship, 23 miles offshore in the North Sea.
23:07And Jonathan leaps without a second thought.
23:10From this vessel onto that, he's quite excited.
23:13It's an Indian crew and apparently the lunch is really, really good.
23:16So I'm disappointed I'm not going with him.
23:18It's just this little thing.
23:20It's like, you know, one small leap for a man, one great leap for international trade.
23:23Without pilots getting on ships like that, containers wouldn't arrive, wouldn't be offloaded.
23:28This apparently has got all our Christmas stuff coming in.
23:32So we're filming this in August, but that stuff is going to be in the shots of Christmas.
23:36So your Christmas present is probably on board there, and it's thanks to Jonathan and his plate of onion barges that is shortly to be delivered to him that that's happening at all.
23:45Under Jonathan's watchful eye, the MSC Rose slowly but majestically glides into her next port of call, Felixstowe.
23:55She is part of the 95% of goods coming in and out of Britain by sea, much of it through forecast area Thames.
24:03Not only is Felixstowe the UK's largest container port, but area Thames also includes the Port of London, which shifts more tonnage than any other.
24:19Humber, Thames, Dover, White. Variable two to four. Becoming south or southeast. Three to five. Occasionally six later.
24:28But ships trading the waters of Thames is nothing new.
24:35For years this coast was busy with sailing barges.
24:39Flat-bottomed, red-sailed, and particular to Thames, these are different to the barges you might have seen on canals and rivers.
24:49I've come to St Joseph's boatyard, just west of Clacton-on-Sea, in Essex.
24:54The site has been a port since 1214 and was a regular end point for the Thames sailing barges carrying cargo like sugar and grain to and from London.
25:09Oh, welcome Richard. Hi Jay. Welcome to Sailing Barge May.
25:12Thank you. Would you like to come aboard? I'd love to.
25:14Cool, let's go.
25:18She's covered in tarpaulin at the moment, so it's hard to tell, but when she was built 134 years ago, barges like the May here were the workhorses of the Thames.
25:27There's a little rope there to hang on to as you come to the steppe.
25:32Look at this, what an absolute beauty.
25:37It's like going back in time.
25:39Very much so.
25:40So, this is the May.
25:42This is the May.
25:43She has a Thames sailing barge.
25:44Yep, she's a Thames sailing barge.
25:46Gosh, look at this, it's like something from, you feel like you're almost in sort of Horatio Hornblower world, don't you?
25:50It's like all those traditional boat building methods.
25:53Yeah.
25:54And what's special about a Thames sailing barge?
25:57They have adapted for use, so they're really good for maybe two people to sail, which is what they used to do in their trading days.
26:04So, just two people on a boat this size?
26:06Two people could sail her, yeah.
26:07Really?
26:08And they used to carry a huge amount of cargo.
26:10And what's this big centre thing?
26:14This is called a Kelson.
26:16It's like a keel on a boat.
26:17But you don't have a keel on a barge, do you?
26:19You don't have a keel on a barge because they have to have a flat bottom, so the keel's on the inside, so it's for strength.
26:24Strength, that's it, because if you're carrying a big, I mean, it's a big boat, isn't it?
26:27She's a big boat, yeah, she is a big boat.
26:29Oh, look at this, it's absolutely gorgeous and you've got lots of bits.
26:31I want to ding the bell, can I ding the bell?
26:33You can ding the bell.
26:38From the 17th century, these ingenious flat-bottomed sailing barges were the perfect way to transport cargo
26:45from rural creeks and backwaters in East Anglia and Essex along the Thames estuary to the clamour of the London docks.
26:57This would have all been originally grain, sugar, whatever it might be?
27:01Yeah, she'd have literally just carried a cargo and there would have been the mate's cabin up the front or forward
27:09and then the skipper would have been at the back in the aft cabin.
27:12And what was the accommodation like?
27:14Oh, it was pretty basic.
27:15It was, but it was.
27:16It was very basic.
27:17After 70 years carrying grain and flour, May was brought by Tate and Lyle in the 1960s and used for sugar transportation.
27:26But Sailing Barge May's story doesn't end here.
27:30She is now home to the Bread and Roses Barge, a burgeoning social enterprise that will soon turn May into a floating bakery.
27:38We want to be able to sail from port to port and invite women, particularly women, to come on board that have been through trauma in their lives.
27:48We want to have a baker with us so the bakery will be up and running and we'll be taking fresh bread to the different ports that we go to.
27:57Interesting thing strikes me is that traditionally we're in what would have been an almost exclusively male environment.
28:03Absolutely.
28:04Clearly you're using space in a different way here.
28:07Definitely.
28:08Women were often in the background with barge sailing.
28:11They were the wives of the skippers, but they weren't actually recognised for what they were doing.
28:17So it's quite important to us that women are now the forefront of the project.
28:21A nice idea then that it's women who would have not traditionally been included in the conversation are the ones who are leading the conversation.
28:28Absolutely, yeah.
28:29I think also for people who are in recovery perhaps, for one thing or another, this would be a great place to come.
28:34It's amazing how people sitting around the table with like-minded women will actually talk in a way that they probably wouldn't if they were in their own homes or, you know, in the pub or something.
28:46So it does create quite a special atmosphere on here.
28:49To help fill the coffers, Jane offers afternoon tea from the barge.
28:54Topped up with grants, the charity aims to have the bakery up and running by early 2026.
29:03Lots of people feel very nostalgic for Thames barges, I think.
29:07They do, yeah, they do.
29:08And everyone has someone in their life who would have been affected by the sort of issues that you want to talk about.
29:13Yeah.
29:14Yeah.
29:15Unfortunately, it's quite common.
29:16We all like a cake, don't we?
29:17We all like a cake.
29:18Do you know what we're having on the menu, Jane?
29:20There's a blueberry and homemade lemon curd cake coming.
29:25OK.
29:26Can I just say that if any member of the crew attempts to eat a slice of that, you have full commission to smack them with a wooden spoon.
29:32It's not happening.
29:33They're yours then.
29:34Thank you.
29:35OK.
29:36But I'll have to wait to get my hands on that cake as the guests from just up the river at Brightling Sea are about to arrive.
29:48Just watch the slightly wobbly, because it's floating, this pontoon.
29:52Got it.
29:53This is where we're going to meet everybody.
29:55So this is like your drive, kind of.
29:58This is like our drive, yeah.
30:01That's our boat, Jane, right?
30:04Yeah.
30:05That's your boat, yeah.
30:06And they come on.
30:07That's the one from the harbour.
30:08Your happy customers.
30:09With all the, yeah, happy customers that have had a really lovely trip up on such a nice calm day.
30:14I like the idea of having a leisurely little sailor on the river to come to tea.
30:18Mmm.
30:19That's nice.
30:20I know.
30:21It's pretty popular, I must say.
30:22When the bakery is fully operational, this will be a women-only space.
30:27But for the money-raising afternoon teas, everyone is welcome.
30:33Hello, and you're...
30:34Hello, Beverly.
30:35Hi, Beverly.
30:36Oh, I'm here.
30:37Hi.
30:38And you're... Hello, John, Richard.
30:39Hello, I'm Karen.
30:40Hello, Karen, Richard.
30:47Back on board, Jane very quickly hands me a pinny and puts me to work.
30:51There's no such thing as a free tea.
30:55Tea delivery on a hot day.
30:58Madam, I have a cup of tea, a pot of tea, but it's very hot.
31:01Anybody else for tea?
31:02Did you...
31:03Yeah.
31:04Did you pick up another tea?
31:08Utterly exhausted by my exertions, I sit down for a well-earned rest and a slice of the cake I was promised,
31:14to chat to Helen, one of the women who's benefited from this most versatile of barges.
31:21What brought you to Bread and Roses?
31:23So, I've seen what they do, how the women help women and followed it on Facebook,
31:29and then someone turned up at my door, Jane, and said,
31:34we're looking for someone to be a life-drawing model in barge.
31:39And I was like, yeah, I'll do it.
31:42Like you do.
31:43Never, ever, ever been a life model before.
31:46Why did you say yes?
31:48Because I felt I could go and I was allowed to talk about my journey.
31:52I can go to these people, show them my scars, show them my prosthetics, just tell them about my journey.
31:59So, you had breast cancer?
32:01Yes.
32:02And you had surgery for breast cancer?
32:03Yes, yeah, full mastectomy.
32:05OK.
32:06Followed by chemotherapy, radiotherapy, and then drugs as well.
32:09So, pretty punishing.
32:11Yeah, it was pretty cruel.
32:12You look in the mirror and every day you see that scar and it brings back memories of the treatment
32:18and the fact that you have had breast cancer and it could come back.
32:21That's, you know, that's a fact.
32:23So, to actually come and show other women what they might look like was a big factor.
32:31So, that's a really interesting thing to do, I think, because you're turning something, which lots of people have prayed,
32:36into something that's a bit less dreadful, right?
32:38Yes.
32:39I can do this, you can do this too, actually.
32:41Yeah, absolutely.
32:42To come on here and speak to other women, you just pass on that.
32:46And that's because it's a safe space to do it?
32:48Yeah, absolutely.
32:49I knew it was women here and they look after women and it's, the whole, just the essence of it is just amazing.
32:59Yeah, I was just struck by, this was built as a very male environment, wasn't it?
33:04Yes.
33:05Yes.
33:06Yeah.
33:07Sailing barge is up and down, full of grain, whatever.
33:09Yeah.
33:10Yeah.
33:11And it's really radically changed now, that space.
33:13It's, yeah, it's amazing.
33:14I mean, thanks to these ladies, you know, they've done an amazing job, yeah.
33:18What an honour to chat to Helen, and what a lovely way for Sailing Barge May's story to continue.
33:31There are warnings of gales in Viking, 40s, Cromarty, 4th, Shannon, Rottenham.
33:41I'm here, I'm here.
33:43Caroline, the sound of the land. Caroline, the sound of the nation. Caroline!
33:52Ah, 1964. The sun seemed brighter, the air fresher.
34:02And three miles off the Essex coast, an old trawler, anchored just inside international waters,
34:07began broadcasting pop music to the nation.
34:11This is Radio Caroline on 199, your all-day music station.
34:15We are on the air every day from six in the morning to six at night.
34:23Before this, the BBC held the monopoly on radio broadcasting in Britain,
34:27and they only begrudgingly played a couple of hours of pop a week.
34:31Radio Caroline changed that overnight, thrusting rock and roll onto the airwaves, kick-starting a revolution.
34:39For me, as a kid growing up in the 60s and 70s, pirate radio was everything music should be.
34:44Rebellious, anarchic, and loads of fun.
34:49So, here I am, following in the footsteps of the Caroline DJs,
34:53aboard a fishing boat bound for this ship itself.
34:56Luckily for me, she is now only a mile off the Essex coast.
35:02Owner Peter Moore has been keeping her spirit alive for 40 years.
35:07What was your first impression when you got involved with it?
35:10That it was like a Mad Hatter's Tea Party.
35:12I'm sensing that would be congenial company for you.
35:15Yeah. Anything that operates without the law obviously attracts a lot of unusual people.
35:21My general script was to say, OK, here we are.
35:25You can be here for 15 minutes or three weeks, you choose.
35:29Yeah.
35:30And some just couldn't cope.
35:33Despite the obvious fun that would be had on a pirate radio station,
35:37taking a job on board did involve a certain steeliness.
35:41Well, I was thinking if you are in a forced tail and you're 20 miles offshore, what happens?
35:46You either sink or you don't.
35:48I mean, that's the truth.
35:50The ships were not particularly well maintained and they were old.
35:53How near did you get to disaster?
35:57We encountered disaster maybe six to eight times.
36:01Really?
36:02The first ship went adrift, finally it sank.
36:05That was all due to the northeasterlies, they were the killer.
36:09The second ship was more robust, but it also fell into disrepair.
36:14And ultimately it was shipwrecked, so we had a litany of disasters.
36:19One of the station's most famous alumni, Tony Blackburn, was caught up in one of those disasters
36:25when the original Radio Caroline boat ran aground in 1966.
36:29He and his fellow DJs were rescued and given a very rock and roll cup of tea.
36:41Today the MS Ross Revenge is the nautical home for Radio Caroline.
36:47It's a lovely shape to see.
36:50I'm kind of with you.
36:51It takes a lot of boxes for me too.
36:53And it's played such an important part well in my life, actually.
36:56And the lives of a lot of people.
36:57There she is.
36:58Well, it's part of British history now.
37:00In need of a little TLC, Peter is currently fundraising to give Caroline a facelift.
37:07I guess that's just one of those things you could pour endless money on.
37:10Yeah.
37:11But an owner's suite, I'm thinking, with maybe a jacuzzi perhaps.
37:15Well, that is the first expense, yeah.
37:18And also stopping it sinking.
37:21Home to Radio Caroline since 1981, the Ross Revenge is a 71-metre former trawler
37:27built in Germany in 1960.
37:29Former DJ Bob Lawrence has offered to show me around the old girl.
37:39Oh.
37:40Oh, now this is what I was looking for.
37:43A proper ship.
37:44You see, this is what she was, a fishing trawler.
37:47Would you describe it as a very bespoke conversion?
37:50I think it was probably a quick conversion.
37:56But actually the most obvious thing about it is the mast.
38:01Yes.
38:02The small mast.
38:03And that enables you to speak peace unto the nations, as they say.
38:06To broadcast where?
38:07With 300 feet in 1983, it was covering all of Northwest Europe, up into Scandinavia.
38:15There were reception reports occasionally from the estates.
38:17Really?
38:18Yeah.
38:19But it also seems that people find that voice coming to them late at night,
38:22early in the morning, whether they're ashore or afloat.
38:25Mm.
38:26It's a connection, a human connection, and that's the really important thing.
38:30I can tell you now, when I was on Radio Caroline in the late 70s, we would listen to the shipping forecast.
38:38Yeah.
38:39And if you imagine in the pitch black, the dark nights, but when the shipping forecast was on, it was a shared experience.
38:48Yeah.
38:49We were all listening.
38:50When that voice on Longwave said, Northeasterly, Force 10, sometimes Gale, you know, we knew we were in for it, and we had no choice.
39:03The fishing boats, those little lights, they could, let's go ho, or go back to port. We couldn't.
39:08Yeah.
39:09The legality of the situation was if we went back into territorial waters, we'd be arrested.
39:13You were going to have to sit it out.
39:15Sit it out, and hope that nothing untoward happened.
39:19But for music lovers, being stuck out at sea on a pirate radio ship isn't the worst thing in the world.
39:34So, imagine these stairs in a storm, Richard.
39:36Oh, not really.
39:37As you climb up.
39:39Climbing, it's steep, isn't it?
39:40It is.
39:41And this is, well, we've got studios here.
39:44This is my favourite room on the ship.
39:47Oh.
39:48This is the record library.
39:50Oh, I'm Howard Carter, and it's Tutankhamen's tomb.
39:53I see such treasures.
39:54Look at this.
39:55Oh, it's lovely.
39:57This is, oh, well, it's wonderful.
39:59I mean, it's your life in 12-inch portions, isn't it?
40:02Absolutely.
40:03I mean, to those of us of a certain age, this was the thrill, the excitement of going to the record shop,
40:08getting the album, getting the single, taking it out of the cover.
40:11The artwork, the smell of the van, the little crackle of that static.
40:14Absolutely. All of those things.
40:16To you and me, this is a treasure house, right?
40:18How did you get involved with Radio Caroline, Bob?
40:21When I was 10, I fell hook, line and sinker for the station,
40:27listened to the station, and eventually, it took me three goes,
40:32but I eventually managed to get a job.
40:34I'd turned 18 in the July, and in the August, I was on not this ship, but our previous ship.
40:43It was the start of the most exciting two years of my life.
40:47There was this young 18-year-old from a council estate in South London, suddenly put into this environment with people, very disparate people.
40:57A whole bunch of people who would also have one thing in common, which is the idea of a renegade life would appeal.
41:03Yeah?
41:04Absolutely appealed.
41:05Yeah.
41:06I mean, the rebel in me, I'm still a rebel at heart.
41:10But do you know what I mean?
41:11Yeah.
41:12We were a rock and roll radio station.
41:13Yeah.
41:14We were hip.
41:15Yeah.
41:16I'm glad you say that, because being hip, I'm looking around on this treasure vault, which I noticed is alphabetized,
41:23and wondering just where, randomly, pick a letter from the alphabet, C, wondering where the C's, where would the C's be?
41:32And the C's would be roughly...
41:34Here.
41:35Here.
41:36Oh, here are the C's, and it just so happens that my hand falls upon two classic albums of the 1980s as fresh today as ever they were.
41:53It just so happens that I was in the commune.
41:57No!
41:58Yes!
41:59How funny that should be.
42:00Were you the drummer or something?
42:01I was, I like to think of myself as the inspiration, the heart, the mind, the soul, that some guy sang.
42:07And I did the keyboards and stuff.
42:10Do you know, I haven't actually held, seriously, I haven't actually held a vinyl copy of one of our albums in probably 30 years.
42:16Yeah.
42:17Well, there you go.
42:19Radio Caroline continues to broadcast daily, but these days it's only live from the ship once a month.
42:27DJ Ellie is one of the current presenters.
42:29Hello, Ellie.
42:30Hello.
42:31This is very exciting.
42:32It is lovely here.
42:33So this is the famous historic Radio Caroline studio.
42:38The historical Radio Caroline studio. One of two.
42:42And how long have you been on Radio Caroline?
42:45I've been on Radio Caroline almost a year now. It's quite, quite impressive.
42:51It's amazing that you're one of the younger on-air talent.
42:54Yes, I'm the youngest female presenter on Radio Caroline.
42:57How old?
42:5818.
42:59Oh, blimey.
43:00Freshly 18.
43:01First job.
43:02Yeah, definitely.
43:03And why do you want to do it?
43:04I just love radio.
43:05I love talking and this has got a lot of history behind it, obviously, and it's just such a cool thing to do.
43:12You're never on your own doing radio. You might be in a room on your own, but you never feel like you're on your own.
43:16I mean, logistically, how do you do it? Do you take the boat out very early in the morning and do your morning show?
43:22So I could do it from here, but it's obviously, I have a show six to seven o'clock every weekday, so it'd be kind of difficult.
43:30I've got a studio at home.
43:31Yeah.
43:32There's a studio in Kent as well, but I record from home and put my show on air, pre-recorded.
43:38And in the old days, of course, DJs came out here, but there was no going home, right?
43:41Yeah.
43:42They went and did weeks at a time.
43:43Yeah.
43:44Not like that for you. How do you think you'd have coped in the old days?
43:47I do think it would have been an experience to stay out here for weeks doing shows.
43:52I'd definitely love to do that, but I also quite enjoy having my own studio, my own space for it.
43:59Yeah.
44:00But it's not the same.
44:01But if you were, for example, to interview, just for example, a legendary 80s show business, God, is that too much?
44:10Is that too strong a word?
44:11Would you want to do that here?
44:12I'd do it here.
44:13Do you want an interview?
44:14Me?
44:15No, I'd love to be interviewed by you.
44:27Good morning.
44:28Good morning.
44:29Now, today we have the one and only Reverend Richard Coles.
44:33Hello.
44:34Hi, Ellie.
44:35How are you?
44:36Good.
44:37How are you?
44:38Very well.
44:39Thanks for having me.
44:40It's a pleasure to be on board Radio Caroline.
44:41It's so awesome.
44:42Now, have you ever listened to Radio Caroline in the past?
44:45I've listened to everything on Radio Caroline.
44:48I grew up in a world where we used to phone dial a disc.
44:51We used to literally phone up to hear the latest number one record.
44:54So, yeah, I have listened to Radio Caroline.
44:55And do you think your band has played much on Radio Caroline?
44:59Well, I've had a little look through the vinyl library next door,
45:03and I'm happy to say that there's strong representation of the Communauté there.
45:06Yes.
45:07So, I'd like to think we did go out once in a while.
45:08Yeah, you definitely do.
45:10And it is so cool to have you here with us today.
45:14Of course.
45:15Thank you.
45:16It's a pleasure to be here.
45:17Radio Caroline epitomises a sense of daring-do,
45:32a rebellious spirit of adventure and risk-taking,
45:35that also perfectly encapsulates shipping area Thames.
45:40It's about goods going out.
45:41It's about goods coming in.
45:42It's the pilots at Harwich ensuring those massive container ships get in safely.
45:47It's about the sea scouts at Greenwich, the Royal Naval College,
45:50where so many seafarers will.
45:51There it all began for them.
45:53But like a great city, of course, there's its renegade fringe.
45:56There's the imaginative work being done by Bread and Roses
45:59on those converted Thames sailing barges of Breitling Sea.
46:03And then, of course, there's the pirate ships to end all pirate ships.
46:06Radio Caroline sending out its message on a completely new voyage
46:10out across the coast and into a waiting world.
46:26And then, of course, we'll see you next time.
46:42We'll see you next time.
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