Locals Welcome Season 1 Episode 1

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Transcript

00:00What do music and fashion have in common with food?

00:05For a young generation of Nigerians presenting their culture worldwide,

00:09they are a part of a sweeping movement of cultural pride known as Naija.

00:19I'm Suresh Das.

00:21I've spent my career writing about the local favourites that make Canada's food scene truly unique.

00:26I believe every bite tells a story.

00:29Now, I want to share those stories with you.

00:38So when I was four, my family moved from Sri Lanka to Nigeria,

00:41and ever since then, it has held a special place in my heart.

00:45Over the past 15 years, Nigerians have come to Canada in record numbers,

00:49with over 120,000 becoming permanent residents.

00:53And with them, they've brought this distinct expression of cultural pride and hope,

00:57one that connects the diaspora to home.

00:59They call it Naija.

01:01Naija is this endearing term that younger kids use to celebrate Nigerian culture.

01:09Today, I've set out to learn about the Naija in Nigerian food in Toronto.

01:15From vibrant street food to comforting traditional dishes, to innovative personal twists on classics,

01:20there are chefs celebrating and shaping Naija in Canada, today and for the future.

01:27My first stop, the Brampton location of Naija Jollof.

01:31Chef and owner Beauty Obosuyi has carved out a niche in the growing Nigerian community,

01:36serving up comforting food that reminds them of home.

01:40Nothing takes me back to being a kid in Lagos like her Jollof rice.

01:45Okay, take care, bye.

01:47Hi!

01:53How are you?

01:54Good, good. Oh, it's so nice to see you.

01:56And your boy, he's like tall.

01:58I know!

01:59I remember the first time I came to see you,

02:00because a friend of mine from Scarborough said,

02:02if you want really proper Jollof rice,

02:04you have to go to this food court and eat at Naija Jollof.

02:07It was tiny, but that was the Naija Jollof seed.

02:10Now you have this beautiful restaurant.

02:13But you know why I came today, right?

02:14Yeah.

02:15You're going to have Jollof rice and the bitter leaf soup.

02:17So many nice things.

02:19And me and you are going to eat together.

02:20Fantastic.

02:21I drove from Scarborough to come see you.

02:22Exactly!

02:23So let's do it Beauty.

02:24Okay.

02:25To escape a very difficult childhood back home,

02:27Beauty came to Canada as a refugee.

02:31Nine years later, she opened a small food court stall,

02:34and from there has grown Naija Jollof into a successful empire,

02:38with five locations across the Toronto area.

02:44Oh, oh my dear.

02:47This is worth driving an hour for for lunch.

02:51And by the way, it's Naija Jollof.

02:55This is the Jollof.

02:56There has to be that Naija in it.

02:58Mm-hmm.

02:59Jollof rice is the most iconic of all West African dishes,

03:02and its ingredients and preparation changes from town to town.

03:06Jollof can be made in so many different ways,

03:09but my recipe makes me feel like I'm in Udo, my village,

03:13where I'm from.

03:14I have blended tomatoes, curry, chicken broth, scotch bonnet,

03:19the rice, of course.

03:20But the most important ingredients in Jollof rice?

03:23Love.

03:24It's true.

03:25Yeah.

03:26Okay, before we eat,

03:27can I tell you a little story about the Jollof rice?

03:29Yeah.

03:30So when I was a kid growing up in Nigeria, in Lagos,

03:31we were at a party.

03:32Nigerians, they love to have parties in like the parking spots

03:35or like outside the house.

03:37So my mom brought me this plate of rice,

03:39and to me it looked like, oh, this is like rice and curry,

03:42like you would have in my home country, Sri Lanka.

03:44But the rice had a different color.

03:46And my brain was telling me this tastes so familiar,

03:50but very different.

03:52And that was my first memory,

03:53my mom feeding it to me.

03:55And whenever I eat the Niger Jollof rice,

03:58it takes me back to being that kid on the chair,

04:02my feet barely touching the floor.

04:05I'm going in.

04:06You first.

04:13Mm-hmm, mm-hmm, mm-hmm.

04:15It's going all area, all around.

04:17Literally, like, you know, from my tongue to my throat,

04:19all the way down to my body, all over.

04:21I'm just feeling the Jollof take over.

04:23High five.

04:25The stew on top, that sauciness,

04:26like almost like a paella style,

04:28it is so wonderful.

04:30This is why Nigerians dance.

04:31So when Nigerians eat good food,

04:33two things they do,

04:35take off their wig,

04:39and they put their foot, bare foot on the floor.

04:42Maybe you can tell my wife this,

04:43because she's always wondering why I'm tapping

04:45when I'm having good food.

04:46That tells you you're having a good meal.

04:47Yeah.

04:48Because you're feeling the vibe

04:49from the outside and everywhere.

04:50It's hypnotic.

04:51How long did it take you to perfect this?

04:53I started cooking when I was six.

04:55Mm.

04:56It started as a punishment, though.

04:58My stepmom used to punish me by cooking.

05:01But then, eventually, it became like my therapy.

05:04So she just leave me in the kitchen,

05:05and I just do my thing.

05:07So now it becomes my strength.

05:09That's amazing.

05:10I'm here for the jollof,

05:12but Beauty wants to share a traditional soup

05:14that's special to her.

05:16This is authentic Vitaly soup.

05:19My favorite soup.

05:23This is such a beautiful-looking soup.

05:25For the honor of my dad.

05:26Mm.

05:27This is his favorite soup.

05:28And this is what we use to dip.

05:29They call it fufu.

05:31Pounded.

05:32Yum.

05:33So you open it up.

05:34Ooh, this is still steaming.

05:35Mm-hmm.

05:36Let's do justice to it.

05:37Yeah.

05:38Yeah.

05:39So nice to do this.

05:45Oh, my.

05:46Oh, my goodness.

05:47Ooh.

05:48There's some nice little peppery heat to it.

05:50Ooh, I love that.

05:51There's so much going on in this soup.

05:54So we have in here cow foods.

05:56Mm.

05:57And shaki.

05:58Yeah, tripe.

05:59Shaki.

06:00Then we have the catfish smoked.

06:01Yeah.

06:02That's the first thing that I taste when I eat the soup.

06:03Have the smoky flavor.

06:04Yup.

06:05And of course, bitter leaves.

06:09Mm.

06:10I remember when I first met you in the food court.

06:12My initial impression of you was this incredibly ambitious person.

06:15Tell me a little bit about this empire that you've built.

06:18My target is not actually just Nigerians.

06:20There are so many other people that love to try our food.

06:23And for Nigerians, they come to Niger Jollof.

06:26And any food you get makes you feel like home.

06:29Any food.

06:30That's a lot of comfort.

06:32Absolutely.

06:33Yeah.

06:34I promise I was not going to cry.

06:36But it's not been easy.

06:39I came to Canada in 2009.

06:42My son was two years and I was pregnant.

06:44And no family.

06:46No friends.

06:47I had equivalent of not even 10 cents.

06:50I went to one shelter to another shelter.

06:53But I'm very strong because I believe this is my home.

06:59This is where I'm going to make all of my dreams come true.

07:03And so that goal gives me strength to conquer anything that comes my way.

07:09It's amazing to see how much you've done in the last 15 years of being here.

07:12This is Niger Jollof's journey but also your journey.

07:15I hope that one day you open a Niger Jollof in Scarborough as well.

07:19You know, close to me.

07:20You should say I hope one day you open a Niger Jollof in Dubai.

07:24Fair, fair.

07:25It's going to be amazing.

07:26It's going to be Canada and worldwide.

07:28I love that.

07:29I want it to be a franchise, like a McDonald's franchise.

07:32And I'm going to get it.

07:33Amazing.

07:34Over in downtown Toronto, another chef is using his cuisine to celebrate Niger

07:47through storytelling and conversation amongst diners.

07:52Funmilare Taiwo, better known as FT, is known for his creative supper clubs

07:58where he curates menus that trace his personal journey from Nigeria to Canada.

08:03This is an evolution of Niger that anyone can find and experience with a little searching online.

08:14Tonight I've secured a seat at one of his private dinners,

08:17which he is hosting in the fast-changing neighbourhood known as The Junction.

08:24You first.

08:26No idea what to expect here.

08:28I couldn't think of a better companion to experience this with than Nigerian food writer and culinary historian Ozoz Soko.

08:36Welcome, welcome.

08:37There we go, guys.

08:39We're joined by a group of artists and chefs who are also drawn in by FT's expressive maker.

08:44I smell something really delicious, so I'm going to go check out what FT is doing.

08:48I'll be right back.

08:49How are you?

08:50Good.

08:51Welcome.

08:52I'm so thrilled to taste your cooking for the first time.

08:55Can't wait, man.

08:56I'm excited.

08:57You're in tech.

08:58I am.

08:59You create things.

09:00Yes, yes.

09:01During the day, and you're also creating things at night, too.

09:02Creating never stops.

09:03Hold that note.

09:04Walk with me for a second.

09:05Okay, okay, okay.

09:06Just about to check the moi moi right now.

09:08A very, very traditional Nigerian dish.

09:10Steamed beans, typically steamed in banana leaves.

09:15Saturday morning breakfast.

09:17So this version sort of marries the traditional and the more modern, so to say.

09:23It's still beans.

09:24It's still steamed.

09:25But the flavors are slightly different.

09:27Very, very creamy.

09:33That's got so much depth to it.

09:35And a slight little bit of sourness, a little bit in there.

09:38That's really nice.

09:39Yeah, that's wonderful.

09:41I can't wait to eat the rest of this.

09:50Starting very, very strongly with one of the favorite courses on the menu.

09:53Akara.

09:55A bean fritter.

09:56Typically made with honey beans or black-eyed peas.

09:58Today's is made with honey beans.

10:00But I really wanted to make a different version of it.

10:03I love sandwiches.

10:04And so I wanted to turn that upside down and use Akara as the actual vessel.

10:08It's very, very reminiscent of Akarajay that's also traveled around the world.

10:12And I hope you enjoy.

10:18Amazing.

10:19If you look at what I tend to think of as the Black Atlantic, there's Haitian Akara, there is Jamaican pumpkin Akras.

10:29So in New Orleans, there is a sweet version of the fritter called Kalas.

10:34People made their own versions.

10:35I'm really enjoying the textural play.

10:37It's not too crunchy on the outside, just the right amount of crisp.

10:41The texture, the flavor, the spiciness is just perfect.

10:45So...

10:46What's it reminding you of back home?

10:48Joy.

10:49Yeah.

10:50This is something in Bahia that you are just walking.

10:53This is my lunch.

10:54Coming to Akarajay in the street, and you just take it in the street.

10:58Yeah.

10:59You think of West Africans being brought to Brazil centuries ago, and we can still recognize it.

11:05It's a real symbol of culture and resilience.

11:07The meaningful conversations are a true highlight of the experience.

11:11Plus, I get to slip into the kitchen and see what FD's got in store for us next.

11:17Snapper?

11:18Bread snapper.

11:19The sauce that is going with it's very, very rich.

11:22That's the sauce, huh?

11:23This is you.

11:24There's heat.

11:25There's heat.

11:29Ooh.

11:30The earthiness of it is really nice.

11:32Got that sort of chimichurri quality to it.

11:34Oh, yeah.

11:35It's really nice.

11:36You're the lucky guest.

11:37You have to try everything before it hits the table.

11:39That's the secret goal here.

11:40You're paying a lot of tribute to the history of Nigerian cooking, but you're also taking

11:45it in your own direction.

11:47Learning how to balance a lot of spice in Nigerian food, I learned from Mexican food.

11:51Lots of salsas, high acid.

11:53Oh, yeah.

11:54I can see that now.

11:55Because the sauces are so rich.

11:57A mole, for example.

11:58A protein is nothing without the sauce.

12:00But the sauce is the soul.

12:06Wow.

12:07Dish after dish, it's clear that we're seeing the transformation of Nigerian cuisine.

12:19Just as a kara is transformed into a karajay.

12:21I mean, two dishes.

12:22Heritage chicken, very, very similar to hard chicken that we eat in Nigeria.

12:27Next dish, red snapper, gorgeous green chili base.

12:31On top of that, charred okra.

12:33Oh.

12:34And then my favorite dish on the table, moi moi and beets.

12:38Earthy, umami flavor.

12:41Thank you, chef.

12:43I've never had Nigerian food like this, I'll be honest.

12:45I mean, I feel like I've had my fair share, but this is just mind-blowing.

12:49The fish is extremely refreshing.

12:51Mm-hmm.

12:52I think the okra is phenomenal.

12:54What a testament to how food can evolve as people move from place to place.

12:58As an immigrant, you move to a new country, and you feel to adapt.

13:02And then slowly, you start showing more yourself.

13:05Yes.

13:06Your culture, the colors, the flavors that you feel proud with, the spices, the textures.

13:12People are really excited to be authentically themselves.

13:15Yep.

13:16And it's letting people see, like, oh, this is wonderful.

13:19I want to be a part of this.

13:20And also the very personal expression of this is me, this is my culture, this is my heart,

13:25my process, my dreams on a plate.

13:29I think it's really stunning.

13:31How's the second course?

13:33So I can say you guys are hungry.

13:35It looks like a tongue mark.

13:37Looks like a tongue mark.

13:39Woodbridge, one of the biggest suburban communities north of Toronto.

13:52It used to be a place for Italian food, but now there's more than that.

13:58We're also seeing, like, suya beef or, like, sopas.

14:03And that's what makes going to see Diana so exciting.

14:08Diana Okafor is chef and owner of Ragals, a local favorite.

14:13While secret supper clubs spread Niger through stories and conversations,

14:17Diana shares the vibrance of Nigerian nightlife in her restaurant by catering big events.

14:23And it all centers around Nigeria's most popular spice plant, my favorite, suya.

14:32Diana, smells amazing.

14:35But I don't recognize what this is.

14:36No.

14:37This is not chicken.

14:39Guinefao.

14:40Guinefao.

14:41It tastes more like a matured chicken, but the flavor is top notch.

14:46So this is the suya spice.

14:48You sprinkle it on?

14:49Yes.

14:50Suya is a staple seasoning across Nigeria.

14:53Typically, it's made with garlic, ginger, cloves, cayenne, and importantly, ground peanuts.

14:59That is so tender.

15:00Mmm.

15:01Whoa.

15:02The smokiness of that.

15:07You nailed it.

15:08So it's juicy inside and crunchy outside.

15:11Mmm.

15:12Ooh.

15:14That's so hot.

15:15When it comes to suya, it's better enjoyed, like, in group, you know?

15:19It's for social gathering.

15:20After work or school, we come together, we enjoy it over at Imperial.

15:24Nothing that unites people more than food.

15:26Would you like more seer spice or you're doing okay with the heat?

15:29Give me more heat.

15:30More heat?

15:31Absolutely.

15:32You sure about that?

15:33Oh, yeah.

15:34Oh, yeah.

15:35Very spicy.

15:36I'm fine with heat.

15:38I mean, whoa.

15:39But Diana didn't just cook all this for me.

15:42Okay, so we just have to get this out of this place.

15:45I'm also here to help Diana as she prepares to cater a booth at African Fashion Week, where

15:50she's bringing her Nyjah flavors to downtown Toronto.

15:53Whoa, whoa.

15:54Let's not spill the jolla price.

15:56Oh, yeah.

16:03Nigeria is a major force in African fashion, and the hungry crowd here at Diana's booth

16:08is a testament to the growing passion for Nigerian food in the heart of the city.

16:14As night falls, I'm off to find out how the Nyjah movement is transforming Toronto's nightlife.

16:21And to show me this transformation is Juno-nominated Afrobeat artist, Nonzo Amadee.

16:28This Nigerian spot is special, and you find out why when we get there.

16:32I've never heard someone say there's their favorite Nigerian spot in downtown Toronto.

16:37Downtown Toronto.

16:38It's always uptown.

16:41This is a new generation of just young people trying to push their country forward in whatever

16:46ways they can.

16:47Are you going to play some music today?

16:48For you.

16:49Just for you, Sir Rich, I'll do this.

16:52We're here.

16:53Let's go.

16:54Nonzo has brought me to Toronto's trendy, Ossington Strip.

16:58This neighborhood has been named a top travel destination for years by many international

17:03publications.

17:04And tonight, we're here to visit a new kid on the block.

17:18The DJ is playing smooth Afro pop, the bartender is slinging vibrant cocktails, and there are Nigerian

17:23plates that I've never seen before.

17:26Mild Afro Lounge is a place where food and music really come together, and there's nothing

17:30else like it in the neighborhood.

17:34But before we settle in, Nonzo sneaks me into the kitchen to meet the man behind it all.

17:39His friend, Chef Toby Onyenyenwu.

17:41Oh, my God!

17:42Look who I got here!

17:43What's up, man?

17:44Good to see you.

17:45Hi.

17:46Good to see you, buddy.

17:47I'm Dan Chef here.

17:48Welcome to my humble kitchen.

17:49How did you end up on, like, on the Ossington Strip?

17:50Like, the coolest strip in Toronto?

17:51Yeah.

17:52I guess it's meant to be.

17:53No, I think we make it cool, actually.

17:54We're the ones who make it cool.

17:55Is there a Nigerian community here?

17:56Yeah.

17:57Well, something I really do appreciate is the fact that, like, it's not just catering

18:00to Nigerians now.

18:01It's catering to the world, and I believe that's the dream we had come out after when

18:03they created it.

18:04You're doing something that's different for the city.

18:05I see people from various cultures having fried plantains, having jollof fries, you

18:07know?

18:08Things they've never heard of, like, Lagos chicken or the Brunard Sandwich.

18:11There's a chicken.

18:12There's a chicken.

18:13There's a chicken.

18:14There's a chicken.

18:15There's a chicken.

18:16There's a chicken.

18:17There's a chicken.

18:18There's a chicken.

18:19There's a chicken.

18:20There's a chicken.

18:21There's a chicken.

18:22There's a chicken.

18:23There's a chicken.

18:24There's a chicken.

18:25Or the Brunard Sandwich.

18:26Those are things that, like, give me joy as a chef.

18:28He's creating a portal to Lagos right here in Toronto.

18:31While Tubi's cooking is rooted in Nigerian cuisine, he really expresses his creativity

18:36by doing something different.

18:40You are a pastry chef, too.

18:43Yeah.

18:44I believe the most important part of the meal is the dessert, because the dessert is

18:48the final farewell to the guest.

18:50What message do you want to pass on?

18:51I believe that's where I want to start.

18:52Like, stuff that is Nigerian.

18:54And then you fuse it with something no world could enjoy.

18:57This is a good example here.

18:58This is Nigerian puff puff, right?

18:59Oh, yeah.

19:00Puff puffs.

19:01Oh, my God.

19:02But I'm seeing chocolate on it.

19:03And that's appealing to the Canadian that loves chocolate.

19:06Every Nigerian child has a strawberry puff puff.

19:09Anytime I get to taste puff puff, it brings back those memories of just being carefree

19:13and just walking down on the road.

19:14Now I have it with chocolate.

19:16Final part is coconut.

19:17Cheers.

19:18Slowly.

19:19Mmm.

19:20Wow.

19:21Mmm.

19:22Oh, my goodness.

19:23I'm going to have one more puff puff.

19:28The chocolate with the coconut is amazing, and the regular one is amazing.

19:37Ha, that's it.

19:38Choose your fighter.

19:39Choose your fighter.

19:40Yeah.

19:41Choose your fighter.

19:42You chase the food, you see what it represents, and you understand that this is the chef.

19:47Same thing you do with your music, but I'm a big fan of this guy.

19:50His music is so unique to him, and you just know it's him once he comes on.

19:54That means a lot, man.

19:55I'm super inspired by seeing your work.

19:58Niger!

19:59Niger!

20:00What does Niger mean to you?

20:02It's my choice for me to define Nigeria to the world.

20:05And that's why I feel I call it Nigeria, because that means I can actually do something with

20:10my country, and that's why I'm so proud of it.

20:12That's what Nigeria is to me.

20:13Thank you, Tobi.

20:14We're going to check out the club tonight.

20:16We're going to just go chill, relax, and see what happens.

20:19Let's go.

20:20Thank you, Tobi.

20:21Thank you, Tobi.

20:22Nice to meet you guys.

20:23Pleasure.

20:24Thank you for feeding me.

20:25Go, Niger!

20:26Go, Niger!

20:27So we have a very special guest tonight, the one and only, your soul, our body!

20:37As a kid, I had no idea that moving to Nigeria was the beginning of an incredible journey,

20:42one that decades later would define my curiosity as an eater in Toronto.

20:47My girl, she got a gun, and she gets one .

20:52Here, I've learned about the deep connection between food, music, and culture

20:56for all generations of Nigerians.

21:02It brings me right back to Lagos, and gives me a small taste of what is coming next.

21:07To help you remember me.

21:09Hey!

21:10Yo!

21:11Say, tonight you can't call my phone.

21:12Hey!

21:13Tonight you can't call me all night long.

21:15Tonight I represent a guy with the money who live fast, but still, baby, don't die young.

21:20Say, tonight is go all the way with me, all the way with me.

21:25What is your name?

21:26Thank you!

21:27Sir, thank you!

21:28Thank you!

21:29My name is up here in the International Society.

21:30Thank you!

21:31I want to call your name, Tim!

21:32Your name is up here in the United States!

21:33And I'll call the floor my name.

21:34I'mere here!

21:35I want to call your name!

21:36My name is up here.

21:37My name is up here in English.

21:38I've been up here in the United States.

21:39I'm going to be up here.

21:40By this fish house, there's a way to end up here.

21:41I'll find it.

21:42The hospital is up here in the United States.

21:43Today you can't call my room for the internet.

21:44Any amount, that's good.

21:45And we're in the hospital, and I'd like to bless all the people

21:47else.

21:48You

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