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00:35mudou a face da fuga das meninas.
00:39Dress chávily, e lembram a roupa.
00:42Dress impecably, e lembram a mulher.
00:48Mas atrás da imediante imediante publicidade
00:51está uma história de colaboração da guerra com os nazis
00:54e uma vida de desastres.
00:58Sempre uma espécie, nunca uma espécie,
01:00Koko's desejo de amor quase costou-te tudo.
01:03Mas sua determinação viu sua triunfo em um mundo humano
01:08em seus próprios termos.
01:11No final, a casa de Chanel foi tudo que ela tinha,
01:16mas ela deixou um legado de glamour que dura até hoje.
01:33No final, a casa de Chanel, a mulher que transformou 20th-century fashion,
02:00was born to a life far from luxury.
02:04She was named Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel,
02:08born on the 19th of August, 1883,
02:11in Saumur, in France's Loire Valley.
02:18Gabriel was delivered to her scandalously unmarried parents in a poorhouse.
02:24Her father was a market trader.
02:27She and her four brothers and sisters spent much of their childhoods
02:31in the public markets of Western France,
02:34where her father made a basic living.
02:39These were tough times for working class women.
02:43They were second class citizens.
02:45They could not vote and were expected to be subservient to their men,
02:50often having no option but to work as poorly paid domestic servants or labourers.
02:57This was the future Gabrielle would have expected for herself.
03:01But when she was just 12 years old, all that changed.
03:08In the winter of 1895, Gabrielle's mother died suddenly.
03:16Her father travelled to the nearby town of Aubergine and split the family.
03:21He sent his sons to live with farm labourers,
03:24and his daughters to an orphanage.
03:28Gabrielle never saw her father again.
03:35The Aubergine orphanage was the largest in the region,
03:40run by disciplinarian nuns and home to hundreds of children,
03:44many abandoned by their parents.
03:48Gabrielle, left by her father and grieving the loss of her mother,
03:52spent her impressionable teenage years within this strict institute.
04:01Respite came in the form of occasional holidays,
04:04when she was allowed to visit her aunts, Adrienne and Louise.
04:14Gabrielle and Aunt Louise would spend their days making clothes.
04:21She had been taught how to sew at the orphanage,
04:23but Louise taught her how to sew creatively,
04:26adding frills and pleats to embellish a simple bonnet.
04:35But at the end of the summer, Gabrielle had to return to the strict regime at the orphanage.
04:44After seven years there, at the age of 18, she was given a choice.
04:50Become a nun or leave.
04:55Gabrielle wasn't about to spend her life in a habit.
05:04She arranged to visit her aunt Louise in the town of Moulin.
05:11From there, she enrolled at the Notre Dame finishing school for young ladies.
05:16As Gabrielle had no way of paying the fees, she was one of the charity pupils there,
05:21given a free place, but treated very differently to the wealthier girls.
05:28After two years, age 20, she was considered ready to face the world on her own.
05:42In 1903, Gabrielle was offered a job as a seamstress in a tailor's.
05:50The owner liked her because she was especially skilful with a needle and thread.
05:59It was a good job for a young lady of Gabrielle's modest standing,
06:04but she didn't see any future in being a seamstress.
06:10Moulin was a garrison town,
06:13and off-duty soldiers had to amuse themselves as best they could.
06:18Gabrielle began to catch the eye of several young officers
06:21who came to the shop to have their clothing tailored.
06:25They began to invite her, with her aunt Adrienne, to the local music halls.
06:36Here, Gabrielle could see a much more glamorous future.
06:40The musicals were a bawdy scene.
06:43Amateurs could take to the stage between performances,
06:46and very quickly, Gabrielle was no longer in the audience, but up on stage.
06:54Her repertoire was limited, just two songs,
06:57Coco Rico and Kikavu Coco.
07:01So the audience soon thought of her as La Petite Coco.
07:07Under the stage lights, seamstress Gabrielle could be someone else.
07:12She could become Coco Chanel.
07:14And as Coco, her on-stage presence was getting her noticed.
07:26Etienne Balcin was a young infantry officer,
07:30an enthusiastic sportsman with a taste for the high life,
07:34and a millionaire.
07:37He was a frequent visitor to the music halls in Moulin,
07:40and Coco caught his eye.
07:42She was just 21.
07:47But Balcin already had one living mistress,
07:50and no intention of settling down.
07:53Yet Coco didn't care.
07:55She didn't think of him as a potential husband.
07:57She knew that as an illegitimate orphan,
08:00she stood no chance whatsoever.
08:03But she realised he could be her meal ticket out of poverty.
08:09It wouldn't be the last time she'd use her sexual allure
08:12to get what she wanted.
08:20Just 12 months after Coco and Balcin's meeting,
08:24his old mistress had packed her bags.
08:27Coco moved in at Balcin's Grand Royaleur estate.
08:31She was now his living mistress, a kept woman.
08:36The role of mistress in France was something of an institution.
08:41And there'd be no more need for work in the tailor shop.
08:46Royaleur was a window into another world.
08:49Those invited to this grand estate
08:51came unaccompanied by their spouses to have fun.
08:55She passed her time learning to train and ride Balcin's horses,
08:59and she very quickly became an accomplished horsewoman.
09:03Within just a year of leaving school,
09:06Coco Chanel, the little orphaned seamstress,
09:09was socialising with some of the wealthiest people in France.
09:12She was gaining confidence too, doing things differently and getting noticed.
09:22In the 1900s, fashion was as much about sexual politics as it was about clothes.
09:29The top designers were all men, and women's dresses were ornamental and not practical.
09:35Their creations forced women to be decorative, helpless creatures.
09:40Floor-length billowing skirts and breathtakingly tight corsets made even the simplest practical task a trial.
09:48But Coco thought this ridiculous.
09:51Her confidence and sense of practicality would not allow her to be a slave to her era.
09:58Fashion has become a joke.
10:01The designers have forgotten that there are women inside these dresses.
10:07The designers have forgotten that there are women inside these dresses.
10:08In the summer of 1909, aged 26,
10:11she attended a racing event with Balcin,
10:15and caused quite a stir.
10:20Because she wasn't wearing women's clothes at all.
10:28That day, Coco wore one of Balcin's ties and a coat belonging to one of his friends.
10:35It was a practical and sporty look, and definitely considered male attire.
10:42She topped it off with a boater she'd made herself.
10:48Society women couldn't believe her audacity, but they had to admire it.
10:52She began to think she was onto something.
11:01Balcin indulged Coco's forays into fashion.
11:04He gave her a space in his apartment to design and make hats for her friends,
11:09just as she had as a child with her Aunt Louise.
11:14But Coco didn't want just a hobby.
11:16She wanted a profession.
11:18A business.
11:21But as a woman without money,
11:23she would never be able to launch a business by herself.
11:27And then someone entered her life.
11:30Someone who understood her desire to make something of herself,
11:34and who wanted to help her achieve it.
11:43Arthur Capel was known to his friends as Boy.
11:46He was wealthy, a polo player and a playboy like Balcin.
11:50But that's where the similarities ended.
11:54Boy was British, and the only one in the group who worked for a living.
11:58And by 1909, Coco was not just Balcin's mistress, but Boy's as well.
12:10The true circumstances of Coco's first meeting with Boy Capel remain a mystery.
12:18Later in life, Coco would give a variety of elaborate accounts,
12:22the most romantic being they found themselves riding alone
12:25through meadows beneath the snow-capped Pyrenees.
12:30But however starry-eyed their first meeting,
12:33the self-made Capel quickly recognised Coco's personal drive and business ambitions.
12:40And she recognised he could be the perfect person
12:43to help and encourage her to forge a career.
12:48But there was much more to it than that.
12:52In the summer of 1909, Coco decided she no longer needed Etienne Balcin,
12:58and she left him a scribbled note.
13:01My dear Etienne,
13:03I shall never be able to repay the kindness and comfort
13:06you have given me while I've been with you.
13:09I am leaving with Boy Capel.
13:11Forgive me, but I love him.
13:15She followed Capel to Paris that day.
13:26Paris in the 1900s was in stark contrast to the run-down markets and town squares of Coco's poor upbringing.
13:37This was the Belle Epoque, a golden age of artistic freedom and personal indulgence.
13:44And Paris was the place to be.
13:47Home to the rich, the famous and the beautiful.
13:53Coco was socialising with the most sophisticated and well-connected in the city.
13:57And with Boy Capel's money, she could fulfil her dreams.
14:02Yet Coco had not abandoned her old boyfriend Balcin entirely.
14:08So, within a year of her arrival in Paris, Capel and Balcin struck a deal jointly to fund Coco's very
14:16first venture.
14:17A hat shop at 21 rue Cambon.
14:21They had decided to give me a place where I could make my hats.
14:25The way they would have given me a toy.
14:32The hat shop caused a stir because Coco's creations were so very different.
14:37And not at all in the usual elaborate and cumbersome fruit bowl style.
14:43Coco's passions were simplicity and modernity.
14:47Allowing women to be stylish and practical at the same time.
14:52Nothing makes a woman look older than obvious expensiveness, ornateness, complication.
14:58The shop was a huge success.
15:03But for Coco, the hats were just the beginning.
15:10The seaside town of Deauville in southern Normandy was six hours by train from Paris.
15:18With one of the best beaches for miles around, Deauville was a fashionable holiday resort.
15:24A favourite of royalty and emperors, it was cosmopolitan and the place for the rich and famous to be seen.
15:32And these were just the sort of people Coco wanted to attract.
15:36So it was here that Coco chose to take her next step.
15:43In 1913, and once again with Boy Capel's financial backing, the doors opened on a new Chanel store.
15:52But this time, it was not just a hat shop, but Coco's first fashion boutique.
16:05Coco's was the first couture collection for women, designed exclusively by a woman.
16:12There were no frills, no ruffles or corsets.
16:15It was simple, it was stylish, but above all, it was practical.
16:22I want to give women the possibility to laugh and eat, without necessarily having to faint.
16:31No one had seen anything quite like it. The collection was a triumph and Coco's reputation was sealed.
16:42But then, the whole world changed.
16:49In the summer of 1914, Europe was plunged into a devastating conflict.
16:57World War I saw 65 million men on the front lines.
17:01Over 8 million were killed and 21 million wounded.
17:07Swathes of the French countryside were churned into miles of bloody, muddy trenches.
17:15Everywhere, there was scarcity and hardship.
17:18This was no time for high fashion.
17:23Yet, amid the misery and despair, the war revealed an opportunity for Coco.
17:36French society was changing.
17:39With most of the men away at war, it was left to women to pick up their men's working roles.
17:45Delivering mail, driving buses and trams, and making munitions.
17:51Women were holding France together.
17:56But their traditional corseted dresses weren't just impractical.
18:00They were dangerous to wear in factories with machinery.
18:06Wartime women needed functional working clothes.
18:09This was Coco's natural style through and through.
18:21Ela pegou a sua chance
18:23e começou a criar novos desenhos de guerra.
18:28E então veio a deslizamento.
18:31Mulhas fábricas fábricas foram difíceis de encontrar,
18:34mas havia bastante de jersey,
18:36a fabrica de fabrica usada para fazer men's undergarments.
18:39Depois, Coco decidiu transformar Necessity into Style
18:43e criou uma pequena coleção de jersey daywear para as mulheres.
18:50A coleção foi uma sucesso.
18:52Ela encontrou uma nicha,
18:54tínhamos suas talentos naturales
18:56e comeu com uma formula de fórmula.
19:03A world estava morrendo,
19:05enquanto uma outra estava morrendo.
19:07Eu estava lá.
19:09Uma oportunidade foi meia,
19:11e eu levou.
19:13E eu levou.
19:14...
19:19Durante uma década de jas de 1812, Koko e Boy Capel gibral Poly hope conforme Metas Aprendidas Cossadas-ですかnصadas.
19:29iz dizer que noв take
19:31encontrei sempre que encontrei uma turma para os conflitos.
19:34Legrafo deוס para oразir na terra do França.
19:38near the border with neutral Spain.
19:40Biarritz was a haven for the wealthy,
19:43and those able to travel would flock to the town
19:46to forget their war worries.
19:48But Coco didn't relax entirely.
19:52She soon realized that Biarritz
19:54could offer the same possibilities as Deauville.
19:58While all around her was collapsing under the pressures of war,
20:01Coco was preparing to expand her empire.
20:07In 1915, Coco opened another Chanel couture boutique in Biarritz,
20:13and with it came a sense of independence.
20:17I was my own master, and I depended on myself alone.
20:22Boykapelle was well aware he didn't control me.
20:25I thought I'd given you a plaything, I gave you freedom,
20:29he once said to me in a melancholy voice.
20:31The house of Chanel was well and truly established.
20:42On November 11, 1918, an armistice was signed.
20:47The war was over.
20:51It should have been a time of jubilation for Coco.
20:54She had turned wartime necessities
20:56into a winning formula for her business.
20:59And both she and Boykapelle
21:01had come through the war unscathed.
21:04But within weeks,
21:05Kapelle betrayed her.
21:10In 1918,
21:12he announced his intention
21:14to marry an aristocratic English beauty
21:16and daughter of a lord.
21:23Coco was distraught.
21:25She admitted she had only ever truly loved once.
21:29We were made for each other.
21:31That he was there,
21:33and that he loved me,
21:34and that he knew I loved him,
21:36was all that mattered.
21:48After his wedding,
21:50Coco and Kapelle continued their affair.
21:53But for Coco,
21:54the worst of it
21:56was that she was now not Kapelle's sole partner,
21:58but merely his part-time mistress.
22:05Then, in 1919,
22:07things got even worse.
22:15Late on the evening
22:16of the 21st of December 1919,
22:20Boykapelle
22:21was killed in a car crash.
22:29If she was crushed
22:30by the news of his marriage,
22:32then she was utterly broken
22:33by his death.
22:36I lost everything
22:37when I lost Kapelle.
22:42Boy had supported and loved her
22:44despite the social stigma
22:46of her modest background.
22:49Now she was alone.
22:51Coco blamed the social elite
22:53for boy's loss,
22:54and she wanted revenge.
23:01All those blue bloods,
23:02they turn their noses up at me.
23:04But I'll have them groveling
23:06at my feet.
23:10Coco was going to show
23:12just how ruthless she could be.
23:15She would join high society
23:18and make it worship her.
23:24Her first step was,
23:26very deliberately,
23:28to rewrite her own history,
23:31romanticizing
23:32and reinventing her childhood.
23:35Coco told so many different stories
23:38about who she was
23:39and where she came from
23:41that many felt
23:42it was no longer possible
23:43to know the real Coco.
23:45Her next step
23:47was to move her Paris Couture shop
23:49to larger,
23:50more luxurious premises
23:52at 31 Rue Cambon.
24:01The polished image
24:02and move worked.
24:05With her fashion empire
24:07once again booming,
24:09doors were open to her.
24:10The rich, famous
24:12and royalty alike
24:13all wanted to be associated
24:15with her chic,
24:16stylish image.
24:18In 1919,
24:20as a mark of her intentions,
24:22she took an apartment
24:23at the renowned Ritz Hotel,
24:25one of the most luxurious
24:26and prestigious in the world.
24:34There,
24:35she shamelessly used sex
24:37to enhance her status.
24:39men became mere trophies
24:42to her.
24:44I developed the habit,
24:46then unprecedented,
24:47of surrounding myself
24:48with people of quality
24:50so as to establish
24:51a link between myself
24:53and society.
24:56In the early 1920s,
24:58her self-styled Slavic period,
25:01she had an affair
25:02with Russian composer
25:04Igor Stravinsky.
25:06She even had an affair
25:08with the richest man
25:09in England,
25:10the Duke of Westminster.
25:15Bendor Grosvenor
25:16met Coco in Monte Carlo
25:18in the Christmas of 1923.
25:22He was said to be enchanted by her
25:24and sent her love letters,
25:26flowers and baskets of fruit
25:28and made the hugely extravagant gesture
25:31of flying them all the way
25:33from London
25:33to her home in France.
25:38She spent her summers
25:39with the Duke,
25:40dividing her time
25:41between his townhouses
25:42in London
25:43and country home
25:44in Cheshire.
25:47She socialised with his friends,
25:50incorporated his tweeds
25:51into her fashion designs
25:52and even met his friend
25:54Winston Churchill,
25:56the then British Chancellor
25:57of the Exchequer.
25:59As time went by,
26:01there were rumours of marriage,
26:03but this never materialised.
26:05He wasn't free
26:06and nor was I.
26:08I didn't want to leave
26:09the House of Chanel,
26:11which I had built
26:11all by myself
26:12and continuously reshaped.
26:16This, of course,
26:17wasn't true.
26:19Bendor Grosvenor
26:19could never have married her.
26:22But meanwhile,
26:24her empire was expanding.
26:34France had rebounded
26:35from World War I
26:36with jubilation.
26:38By the 1920s,
26:39the era of corsets
26:41was well and truly over.
26:43Modern girls were flappers
26:44and they were out
26:46to have fun.
26:51It was as if
26:52the world of fashion
26:53had caught up
26:54with Coco's style ideas.
26:56Her designs,
26:57as always,
26:58were based upon
26:59how she liked to dress.
27:02Dress chabilly
27:03and they remember the dress.
27:05Dress impeccably
27:06and they remember the woman.
27:10with Coco at the helm
27:12of the House of Chanel,
27:14innovation followed innovation.
27:17In 1923,
27:19Coco made a daring move
27:21and launched a perfume.
27:23Named after her lucky number,
27:26Chanel No. 5
27:27was the world's most expensive.
27:30in 1926,
27:32she introduced her signature
27:34little black dress.
27:36American Vogue predicted
27:38it would become a uniform
27:39for all women of taste.
27:45and she was one of the first
27:47to put women
27:47into chic,
27:48stylish trousers.
27:53time and again,
27:55with every collection
27:55through the 20s
27:56and early 30s,
27:58she was defying convention
27:59and redefining
28:01how women dressed.
28:02She was now
28:03an industry leader
28:04in a previously
28:05male-dominated world
28:07and by having a career
28:08and enjoying
28:10a liberated love life,
28:11she symbolized
28:12the post-war aspirations
28:14of a generation
28:15of newly emancipated women.
28:20I was the first person
28:22to live the life
28:23of this century.
28:26Her prestige
28:27had never been higher.
28:31But very soon,
28:32a chain of events
28:33was set in place
28:34that would see her
28:35risk it all.
28:51on the 1st of September,
28:531939,
28:54Germany invaded Poland.
28:59Just two days later,
29:01Britain and France
29:02declared war.
29:03Hitler set out
29:04to spread his Nazi empire
29:06across Europe
29:06in a conflict
29:08that would be
29:08the most deadly
29:09and destructive
29:09in history.
29:16France didn't immediately
29:18fall under attack
29:19and in Paris,
29:21Coco's clients
29:22begged her
29:23to keep her boutiques
29:24open for morale.
29:30But in May 1940,
29:32the Nazis attacked
29:33and thousands
29:35of civilian refugees
29:36clogged roads
29:37throughout France.
29:41Coco laid off her staff
29:42and closed
29:44the House of Chanel.
29:45Only one small
29:46perfume store
29:47remained open.
29:48When the streets
29:49began to empty
29:50as Parisians fled
29:52in their thousands,
29:53Coco joined them,
29:55the difference being
29:56she was in
29:57a chauffeur-driven car.
30:09In June 1940,
30:12German forces
30:12bombed Paris.
30:30Within days,
30:32France surrendered.
30:58An agreement was made.
31:00The Nazis would occupy
31:02and govern
31:03north-western France
31:04and a new
31:05collaborationist
31:06French government
31:07based in the town
31:08of Vichy
31:08would run
31:09the south of the country.
31:19Coco spent
31:20the next few weeks
31:21reflecting upon
31:22what she should do.
31:23She had successfully
31:24steered the House of Chanel
31:26through one world war
31:27and she began to think
31:29she might be able
31:30to do the same again.
31:33giving up was not
31:35her style
31:35and the House of Chanel
31:37was now the only thing
31:38she valued in her life.
31:41So in August 1940,
31:43Coco decided
31:44what she must do
31:45and once again
31:46she headed back to Paris
31:48and to the Ritz Hotel.
32:00was occupied and swarming
32:02with German soldiers.
32:04The German army had even
32:06commandeered the Ritz
32:07as its headquarters.
32:10But she was able
32:11to take a small room
32:12in the civilian wing
32:13of the hotel
32:14and use it
32:15as her new Paris base.
32:18Coco, as always,
32:19was intent on survival
32:21and bent to the times.
32:23By day,
32:24her perfume boutique
32:25was selling
32:26to the wives
32:26of Nazi officers
32:28and by evening
32:30she was living
32:31cheek by jow
32:32with Nazi commanders.
32:34But by 1941,
32:36Coco's relatively
32:38benign relationship
32:39with the German occupiers
32:40began to change.
32:44She was feeling her age
32:46and unhappy
32:47about the decline
32:48in her looks.
32:51She told a friend
32:52that when looking
32:54in a mirror
32:54she found it
32:55a struggle
32:56between it and me.
33:02It was around this time
33:04that she met
33:05Hans Gunther von Dinklage
33:07known as Spatz.
33:09He was a German officer
33:10and Nazi spy,
33:12something of a playboy
33:13and 13 years her junior.
33:17Coco dined with him,
33:19asking his help
33:20to release her nephew
33:21who had been detained.
33:25During the negotiations,
33:27she and Spatz
33:28became lovers.
33:30She was 56 years old.
33:34Spatz may have been German,
33:35but Coco didn't seem to mind.
33:38She later claimed,
33:41Really?
33:41A woman of my age
33:42cannot be expected
33:43to look at his passport
33:45if she has a chance
33:46of a lover.
33:49But then,
33:50Coco's more senior
33:51Nazi connections
33:52led her to become involved
33:54in a sinister plot.
34:00One evening,
34:02Coco and Spatz
34:03dined with cavalry captain
34:04Theodore Mom.
34:06They began to discuss
34:07the future of the hostilities
34:09and to think maybe Coco herself
34:11could play a role
34:12in ending the war.
34:15After all,
34:16Coco had spoken
34:17of the Duke of Westminster
34:18and had regaled stories
34:20of mixing with Churchill.
34:22She'd been partner
34:23and lover
34:23to an Englishman
34:24for eight years.
34:26She knew both
34:27the English mindset
34:28and had friends
34:29with influence.
34:33You Germans
34:34don't know
34:35how to handle
34:35the English.
34:36I do.
34:38Not even Coco
34:40could have realized
34:41what she was getting
34:42herself into.
34:48Coco traveled to Berlin
34:49and was introduced
34:51to Walter Schellenberg,
34:53Hitler's chief
34:54of foreign intelligence
34:55and personal aid
34:57to Heinrich Himmler.
35:00By now,
35:01Schellenberg was convinced
35:02the Nazis would lose the war
35:04and was desperate
35:05to cut a deal
35:06with the Allies
35:07to gain peace
35:08with honor.
35:11There and then,
35:12the bizarre operation
35:13Modal Hoot
35:14was conceived.
35:17Even today,
35:19the full details
35:19of the plot
35:20remain secret.
35:22But it is thought
35:23Coco was to be used
35:24as bait
35:25to lure Churchill
35:27into a meeting
35:28where he could be
35:29persuaded to make peace
35:31on terms favorable
35:33to the Nazis.
35:35Coco traveled
35:36to neutral Spain
35:37where she planned
35:38to meet the British
35:39ambassador,
35:40Sir Samuel Hoare.
35:41She hoped that he,
35:43a man with a reputation
35:44for negotiating
35:45delicate international deals,
35:47would arrange a secret
35:48face-to-face meeting
35:49with Churchill.
35:51It seemed Coco
35:52had overstated
35:53her real influence
35:54with the British.
35:56Hoare did not
35:57take the bait
35:59and said Churchill
36:01was too ill
36:01for any meeting.
36:03Operation Modal Hoot
36:05had come to nothing.
36:07yet Coco was now
36:09on record
36:10as having collaborated
36:11in a Nazi plot.
36:14She returned
36:15to the Ritz apartment
36:16in Paris
36:17and to her German lover.
36:21But by now,
36:23the tide of war
36:23was turning
36:24against Hitler.
36:30on the 6th of June
36:321944,
36:34the Allies
36:34Operation Overlord
36:36was put into action.
36:41And the beaches
36:42of Normandy
36:42flooded with Allied troops
36:44in the largest
36:45amphibious operation
36:47in history.
36:50The Allies defeated
36:51and began to push back
36:53with German army units.
36:58On the 25th of August
37:001944,
37:01Paris was liberated.
37:18The next day,
37:20General de Gaulle
37:21and leaders
37:21of the French resistance
37:22marched in celebration
37:24from the Arc de Triomphe
37:25to Notre Dame.
37:27Thousands gathered
37:28to witness the liberation.
37:33It was a huge spectacle.
37:37France was once again free.
37:43Coco watched the scene unfold
37:45from a balcony
37:46on the Rue de Rivoli.
37:49She must have sensed
37:50to witness a change in mood.
37:52Among those who had
37:52collaborated with the Nazis,
37:54fear was growing.
38:02Nazi officers were interrogated
38:04and collaborators rooted out.
38:08Thousands of female collaborators
38:10were rounded up,
38:11stripped and paraded
38:13in the streets,
38:14their hair shorn
38:15in public humiliation.
38:18as the lover of a Nazi officer,
38:21Coco's position
38:22was vulnerable.
38:24Worse,
38:25there was her role
38:27as a Nazi agent
38:28in Operation Modalhut.
38:30She would surely be found
38:32guilty of collaboration.
38:35In August 1944,
38:37just two weeks
38:38after de Gaulle's march,
38:40two men arrived
38:41at the Ritz.
38:45They handed Coco
38:46an arrest order
38:47from the Committee
38:48of Public Morals.
38:50She was named
38:51a Nazi spy.
38:53Under interrogation,
38:56Schellenberg had revealed
38:57every detail
38:58of Operation Modalhut.
38:59He claimed Coco Chanel
39:01was at its center.
39:04Coco picked up
39:05her gloves and bag
39:06and calmly walked
39:08out of the door
39:08with her captors.
39:13The woman
39:14who had risen
39:15from the poorhouse
39:16to a position
39:17of enormous wealth
39:18and influence
39:19and who had single-handedly
39:21revolutionized fashion
39:23was set to be denounced
39:25as a Nazi agent
39:26and publicly paraded
39:28for all to see.
39:30Once the embodiment
39:31of the modern,
39:32liberated woman,
39:34Coco Chanel
39:34was now labeled
39:35as a collaborator.
39:41Yet, just a few hours
39:42later, Coco
39:44was released
39:45without charge.
39:51Coco would never
39:52confirm exactly
39:53what happened,
39:55but some say
39:56she knew too much
39:56about the British
39:57upper classes.
40:00Others claim
40:00Churchill personally
40:01intervened
40:02on her behalf.
40:04But whatever the reason,
40:07Coco avoided
40:07public humiliation.
40:10Yet her reputation
40:12was damaged
40:13beyond repair.
40:14France turned
40:16against her.
40:17It was now unsafe
40:18for her to remain
40:19in Paris.
40:20So Coco packed
40:21her bags at the Ritz
40:22and bought a one-way ticket
40:24to Switzerland
40:25where her German lover
40:27Spatz was waiting
40:28for her.
40:30The dream was
40:32effectively over.
40:37In Switzerland,
40:38bitterness set in.
40:40Coco had lost
40:41the two things
40:42that mattered most
40:43to her,
40:43her reputation
40:44and her empire.
40:46She stopped
40:47designing altogether
40:48and lived in comfort
40:50on the fortune
40:51she had made
40:52selling her perfume
40:53to the Nazis.
40:57Starting at the
40:58Place de la Concorde
40:59on a midnight tour
41:00of Paris,
41:01designer Pierre Balmain...
41:02Quietly and from
41:03the sidelines,
41:05Coco witnessed
41:05the changes
41:06in post-war
41:07French fashion
41:10and she despised
41:11what she saw.
41:18In 1947,
41:20Christiane Dior
41:21introduced
41:22the new look,
41:23a cascade
41:24of nipped waste
41:25longer lengths
41:26and fuller skirts
41:27with yards
41:28and yards
41:29of fabric.
41:30Ruffles found
41:31their way
41:32to skirt hems,
41:33necklines
41:33and waists.
41:34Gathered skirts
41:36were topped
41:36with soft
41:37feminine detailing.
41:39Coco saw
41:40Dior's designs
41:41as standing
41:42against everything
41:43she had achieved
41:44for women.
41:47Coco was convinced
41:48that women
41:49would soon be desperate
41:50to throw off
41:51the waist cinches,
41:52padded bras
41:53and heavy skirts
41:54and returned
41:55to a more practical approach.
42:01She began to think
42:03fashion once again
42:04needed her.
42:06But there was more
42:07to it than that.
42:13Coco's personal life
42:15was empty.
42:16Although she was still
42:17paying him an allowance,
42:18she and her lover
42:20spats had split.
42:22Former lovers
42:23Etienne Balsan
42:24and the Duke of Westminster
42:26had both died.
42:29Even Nazi spymaster
42:31Walter Schellenberg,
42:32for whom she had paid
42:33costly medical bills,
42:35was dead.
42:38Coco was alone
42:40and in need
42:41of a distraction.
42:42She realized
42:44the time was now right
42:45for her style
42:46to make a comeback.
42:48So in 1954,
42:50she began to prepare
42:51for what was to be
42:53the most important
42:54collection of her life.
42:59On the 5th of February,
43:00age 73,
43:03Coco Chanel
43:03returned to Paris
43:04to the world of fashion.
43:08Here,
43:08she would launch
43:09her first post-war collection.
43:13She had worked tirelessly.
43:16Every dress
43:17was inspected
43:18and re-inspected.
43:19The models
43:20were poked,
43:21prodded
43:22and pinned
43:22round the clock.
43:28To Coco,
43:29this show
43:30meant everything
43:31and the stakes
43:32could not have been higher.
43:35She would either
43:36make a triumphant comeback
43:38or face humiliation.
43:46to the world
43:47to the world
43:48and the rest
43:48of the world
43:49of the world.
43:56The French press
43:57was scathing.
43:59They had not forgiven her
44:00for her wartime collaboration.
44:03The British press
44:04called it a fiasco,
44:06the same old styles
44:07with nothing new.
44:09But redemption
44:10did come,
44:11this time
44:12from overseas.
44:23It was the Americans
44:24who were enraptious.
44:27The unchanged simplicity
44:29and classic elegance
44:31of the Chanel look
44:32won them over.
44:34Practical yet luxurious clothing
44:36was sought after
44:38by American working women
44:39and Coco was there
44:41to dress them in style.
44:44I don't like people
44:46talking about
44:46the Chanel fashion.
44:48Chanel,
44:49above all else,
44:50is a style.
44:51Fashion, you see,
44:52goes out of fashion.
44:54Style?
44:54Never.
44:57In 1962,
44:59Broadway producers
45:00even proposed a musical
45:02of Coco's life story.
45:04She considered
45:05the female lead,
45:06Catherine Hepburn,
45:07nearly 20 years her junior,
45:09to be too old
45:10for the role.
45:13In time,
45:14France forgot Coco's
45:16wartime history.
45:17Europe too fell
45:18for her designs.
45:23The House of Chanel
45:24was bigger
45:25and better than ever.
45:26Coco herself
45:27was idolized.
45:34In the late 1960s,
45:37the House of Chanel
45:38was a worldwide
45:39fashion colossus
45:40worth over
45:41100 million pounds,
45:43with Coco,
45:44the grand mammozel,
45:46at its helm.
45:47For the second time
45:48in a century,
45:49Coco Chanel
45:50had made her fortune.
45:52She was now wealthier
45:53and more successful
45:54than ever.
45:59But for all the successes,
46:01beneath the carefully
46:03manicured image,
46:05Coco was increasingly frail
46:06and lonelier than ever.
46:09The men she had loved
46:10were long dead.
46:12She had never married
46:13and had no close family,
46:15and was now
46:16utterly reliant
46:17on nightly morphine sedatives
46:19to help her sleep.
46:21One shouldn't live alone.
46:23It's a mistake.
46:25I used to think
46:26I had to make my life
46:27on my own,
46:28but I was wrong.
46:30I've got nothing.
46:31I am alone
46:32with my millions.
46:35Yet despite
46:36her lifelong search
46:37for love,
46:38Coco Chanel
46:39had risen to the top
46:41in a male-dominated world
46:42to create a style
46:44of clothing
46:44that had changed
46:45the face
46:46of women's fashion.
46:48By 1971,
46:51Coco,
46:52orphan,
46:52mistress,
46:53millionaire,
46:54was growing
46:55increasingly frail
46:56and difficult.
46:58On the 10th of January,
47:00at the age of 88,
47:02and still officially working,
47:04Coco Chanel,
47:06a fashion industry icon,
47:08died at her Ritz apartment.
47:11Her maid was with her
47:13for her last moments.
47:15As Coco pushed
47:16one last syringe
47:17of nightly morphine
47:18into her leg,
47:19she said,
47:21You see,
47:22this is how one dies.
47:40is going to be
47:41in a thousand days
47:41of ministry.
47:41And,
47:59when she first became
48:02she said,
48:03She said,
48:10Abertura