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Condé Nast Traveler joins chef Erchen Chang in Taipei as she shares her favorite places to eat across the city. From Taiwanese comfort food like three taste chicken and succulent gua bao to the best convenience store snacks. Explore Taipei’s vibrant food culture, neighborhood night markets, hole-in-the-wall eateries, and local institutions while learning what makes Taiwanese cuisine and the city’s incredible food scene so special.
Transcript
00:00The life of Xiao Long Bao probably only lasts 5 to 10 minutes.
00:03It's there for you to eat straight away.
00:05Hello, I'm Er Chan Chan.
00:07Here we are in Taipei, and I'm taking you to my favorite spots.
00:10And this is where the chefs eat.
00:17Welcome to Taipei.
00:18We're here to eat.
00:24We're in Zhongshan area, which is a very buzzing neighborhood.
00:27It's right in the center of town.
00:29And I'm going to take you to my favorite spot.
00:32One of my favorite spots since childhood.
00:34And it's called Jijiazhuang.
00:35I'll show you.
00:42This is where I come for comfort food.
00:44I've been coming here since I was a kid.
00:46So it's just been a place that's ingrained in my brain.
00:49Like whenever I come back to Taiwan, this is the place I want to hit.
00:51You can sit around the round table, have the Lazy Susan.
00:55And nothing has changed here since day one.
00:57I come here for San Weiji, which is their three treasure chicken.
01:02And here, the name being Jijiazhuang, meaning like a chicken house.
01:06Chicken is their specialty, their signature.
01:09And it's amazing.
01:10This is a chicken fat rice.
01:12So they boiled it in chicken stock and a bit of chicken fat.
01:15And it's really plump and glistening.
01:17And the flavor is really elegant.
01:19I know it looks really ordinary, but I love how simple it is.
01:23And it's done so well.
01:24And it's so consistent.
01:25And it works so well with all the other dishes.
01:28Especially this mapo tofu here.
01:30Scoop a little bit on it.
01:32I kind of make a tiny dent.
01:35And then let it sit in.
01:36And you can literally,
01:38You can keep slurping it in.
01:40It's beautiful.
01:41The first one I always go for is the chicken here.
01:44And I'll find a nice juicy bit.
01:48And then a little bit of the pickle.
01:50Amazing.
01:55I love how the skin is always really like bouncy.
01:58And then the flavor of the chicken is really well seasoned.
02:01So then you're not just eating a bland piece of chicken.
02:03It's like chickeny and also flavorsome.
02:06A table like this,
02:07I always have to order a veg for the family.
02:09One of my favorite veg is Cheerio Si Gua.
02:12It's like a loofah.
02:13So like a gourd.
02:14They cook with ginger.
02:16And then the liquid.
02:17For me, the liquid is the gold.
02:19Because it works so well with rice.
02:20And this is a dish that my grandma actually loves cooking for me.
02:27So sun-dried daikon cooked in egg.
02:30Quite really fluffy.
02:31I think it takes a lot of oil to cook this to keep it this fluffy.
02:36I just love the burst of saltiness from the sun-dried daikon.
02:39And the flavor inside the egg is a very classic Taiwanese flavor combination.
02:45And chicken clam soup.
02:47It's a chicken house.
02:48You have to have chicken broth, chicken soup.
02:51Clam.
02:52Taiwan is an island surrounded by amazing seafood.
02:57And clam being one of the greatest of Taiwanese cuisine in my opinion.
03:05This is the bowl you want to eat after a shift.
03:09So we've finished our full meal now.
03:11And they always give you a complimentary custard pudding.
03:15We call it bouding.
03:15Jitan bouding.
03:16And I love it.
03:17Because it tastes really nostalgic.
03:18The idea of like having a flan at the end of your meal is like a very 80s thing to
03:23do.
03:24And it's just something that I love that nothing has changed.
03:27We're frozen in time.
03:29Cool.
03:30We're done.
03:30Let's go to the next spot.
03:39So here we are in Wanhua area which is the west side of Taipei.
03:43It's really close to Ximending and it has a very famous temple called Longsan temple.
03:49We're here to visit one of my favorite bao place.
03:52It's called Yijia Zi which is kind of like a classic Taipei eatery.
03:58This one specializes in kind of Tainan, South Taiwan flavor.
04:02They have a whole piece of pork belly, braised, super succulent.
04:07The bao is kind of like this big, like really big.
04:10But I always describe to my friends that it just disappeared like that.
04:15So usually the queue is always down the block, like all the way to the end.
04:19And today we're really lucky that it's really short.
04:21I have to join the queue as soon as I get in just in case someone else also come in.
04:25My favorite is their classic Gua Bao.
04:27And in Taiwan, the Gua Bao only comes in a fermented veg,
04:31peanut powder, braised pork, coriander, super simple, big fluffy bao, nice and warm.
04:38Serve in a plastic bag and that just kind of woof into your mouth.
04:47Cool.
04:47So we just got the Gua Bao and then you can feel that it's really,
04:50really soft.
04:51I love that they just come in a plastic bag anyway.
04:54So humble and everyday life.
04:57The pork itself is one big slab of pork, which is different to how I serve in our restaurant.
05:04But what I love about them is they really have braised their pork to perfection.
05:12The coriander in Taiwan is so flavoursome and then the combination of peanut powder,
05:18coriander and that kind of like soy braised flavour is the epitome of Taiwan, in my opinion.
05:27I think what makes Taiwanese food things so special is that there's so many
05:31houses like this, like a hole in the wall in a really humble, humble street.
05:36And they kind of have been doing this for years, 20 years, 30 years, 50 years, day in, day out,
05:43perfecting kind of their craft.
05:44Every time I come home, I really feel like they just hit the spot for me.
05:54We're in front of a convenience store, which I find is a big part of Taiwanese culture.
05:58Not just a convenience store, it's where you do everything.
06:01Here, you probably come in first thing in the morning to get your morning coffee.
06:04Then you can pay your utility bill.
06:07They have like really amazing hot food.
06:09It's not just what you think a regular convenience store would do.
06:12And then you also have ATM.
06:14This is where I come to get money out.
06:16I don't go to bank.
06:17I come to convenience store because there's like really amazing aircon.
06:20Basically, I could do everything here.
06:21I feel like at home when I hear the sound of a convenience store, the jingle.
06:26So let's go in.
06:33There are many aisles and each one kind of specialised in different things.
06:37It's really exciting.
06:38It's kind of the place where I discover what's happening in Taiwan right now.
06:42And what's hot at the moment.
06:44So first thing first, I'm going to have a high bowl.
06:47Look, you can open the top fully.
06:50And then you can see a real lemon.
06:53Really good, really crunching.
06:57So this is a ke le guo, which is like a pea crisps spiral in shape.
07:03And the craziest thing is it actually tastes like the soup that you can get from Shaoshi House.
07:10Insane.
07:12Okay, moment of truth.
07:14I actually haven't tried Doritos with coriander.
07:17Oh my god, it's green.
07:18So stupid.
07:19I love it.
07:25It's mainly Doritos with a hint of coriander flavour.
07:29It's fun though.
07:30It's good, it's good.
07:31Let's have some tea eggs.
07:33So what I do, when you get an egg in a plastic bag, I normally kind of crush it a
07:38little bit.
07:38So then I can peel it easily.
07:41So then you see the crack of the egg.
07:44The soy braised liquor kind of seep into the surface of the egg.
07:47Quite beautiful.
07:51Who loves a fully cooked yolk?
07:53I do.
07:55So the convenience stores in Taiwan are open 24-7.
07:59Sometimes I come late at night.
08:00Sometimes I've even been to a bar where they have a convenience store opposite the bar.
08:04The middle of the night convenience store is kind of like where all walks of life come together.
08:09It's kind of a strange place.
08:20What's your favourite thing about Taipei?
08:21My favourite thing about Taipei is how walkable it is.
08:24And there are so many things to look at.
08:26I love the streets.
08:27I love the plants.
08:28And then I just love the food culture here.
08:31There's like multi-layers of food culture that you can experience.
08:35Night Market has been a big part of the place that I grew up with.
08:39Lingjiang Market is my current favourite because it's such a neighbourhood night market.
08:44It's one street.
08:45But the quality of the stores here are incredible.
08:48You can walk and snack.
08:49You can be quite spontaneous.
08:51You don't have to decide what to eat.
08:52You can eat a little bit, change it up, try something else.
08:55And it's really the way of life rather than being a destination.
09:00So here we are in Zhenghao Xiaolongtangbao.
09:03It's a Xiaolongbao place.
09:04And in Taiwan, I would say Xiaolongbao has become a really iconic dish
09:08that represents Taiwan.
09:09They hand-roll everything in-house that you can see here.
09:12What I love about it is it shows like so much craft
09:15into making something seemingly really simple.
09:18I love the sound of the scooters in Taipei too.
09:21It's such an iconic, sonic identity of Taipei.
09:25This store is located in Lingjiang Market on the side street.
09:29I believe it's a family-owned business.
09:30And it's been here for many years.
09:39So fast.
09:40They serve it so fast.
09:42So one of the key things for Xiaolongbao is make sure
09:44you have to have your sliced ginger and vinegar.
09:49I love my ginger.
09:50So I'm gonna take a little bit more.
09:51And then I'm going to have a bit of vinegar and tiny bit of soy.
09:56Definitely need to have a spoon to keep yourself civilized.
10:02Cool.
10:04So can you see?
10:05It's so beautiful.
10:06Perfectly intact.
10:07You can tell how thin the skins are
10:09by like seeing it droop down a little bit.
10:12And what I do is I put it into a spoon.
10:15And my trick is bite a little bit.
10:21And soak the soup in as I go.
10:24Tiny bell of ginger.
10:27For the vinegar, soy mixture.
10:30And then down it in one go.
10:35The skin has a very slight chew to it.
10:37And then the meat texture is so like flavorsome.
10:41And kind of melts in your mouth.
10:43The soup ratio is really high.
10:45That's kind of what I'm looking for in a Xiao Long Bao.
10:49And I love that I can eat it by myself.
10:51Right now it's quiet.
10:52But like the times I've been here it's been so packed.
10:56But silence.
10:57Because everyone knows you don't talk.
10:59Because you have to eat it when it's really hot and fresh.
11:03The life of Xiao Long Bao probably only lasts
11:05five to ten minutes.
11:06It's not there for you to wait.
11:08It's there for you to eat straight away.
11:10You need to enjoy that burst of heat in your mouth.
11:14That explosion.
11:25Now we're done.
11:27I've showed you all my favorite spots in Taipei.
11:30Next time in Taiwan be sure to visit these places.
11:33And let me know what you think.
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