00:02A true waterman reflects on his actions in the ocean and realizes deeply that in
00:08every session, in every wave, in every decision he makes, he creates his future.
00:16Good or bad. Just a few years ago Trevor suffered the biggest hardship in his
00:23surfing career. I made a bad decision. I paddled for a wave, didn't catch it. I turned around
00:31and saw the biggest set of my entire life. And I took 10 of the biggest waves of my entire
00:38life on the head. Survival is the only option for a big wave waterman, unless he welcomes
00:46the alternative. I remember thinking, this is not survival.
00:52In the abyss of thoughts, a stillness settles. I really thought I was going to drown.
00:57Self-reliance is everything. They're never ever going to find me and there's going to be
01:02nobody to bring back. I was really lucky that up until that point in the summer, I had been
01:12at home on the North Shore and I had been obsessing on training.
01:15This is the line. Live or drown in a place where one must prove his determination for life.
01:26My entire life became about risk reward. Is the risk worth the reward?
01:33My happiness outside of the water is I really enjoy training as much as I enjoy surfing. And I'm happy
01:40that that goes hand in hand. The only reason I didn't drown is because I spent months and months,
01:46never mind my entire lifetime, obsessing on training. And when that day happened, I still held on by a threat.
01:59If it wasn't for all of that time dedicated to this, I wouldn't have made it.
02:06And I'll be happy with you here.
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