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The Cook Up with Adam Liaw Season 9 Episode 22
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00:00MUSIC
00:22Hello, I'm Adam Lear, and welcome to The Cook-Up,
00:23the greatest compendium of recipes known to humankind.
00:26On tonight's menu,
00:27duck frites, whipped labneh and grilled quail,
00:31and Toulouse sausages braised with grapes and vincotto.
00:33Let's meet our guests.
00:34When you hear the words, Australian food icon,
00:36you might think of the succulent Chinese meal guy,
00:38but you'd be wrong, because of course I'm talking about Maggie Beer AO,
00:42a tireless cook and advocate whose hope is for everyone
00:44to enjoy quality, seasonal cooking.
00:46Welcome back, Maggie.
00:47Thank you, Adam.
00:48It is all such a pleasure to have you here.
00:50Oh, I'm thrilled.
00:51And I'm very glad Steve Flamseed failed his circus entrance exam
00:55because it'd be tricky for him to make award-winning wine
00:57while unicycling, a trained chef and cheese maker.
01:00His current projects are Silo Wines and Decades Wine.
01:03Hi, Steve.
01:04Hi, Adam. Good to be here.
01:05Great to have you here.
01:06Now, you two know each other.
01:07How did that come about?
01:09Well...
01:10You go.
01:12Steve came to work with us at the Pheasant Farm in 1991.
01:1691, yeah.
01:17When he came to Roseworthy to do Enology.
01:19Yeah.
01:20But he was so fantastic out the front and he was such a support for me.
01:24I mean, the multi-talented man, truly.
01:27Yeah.
01:27You're very much a Renaissance fan, Steve.
01:30That sounds great.
01:31Yeah.
01:32But what was it that first brought you to the Pheasant Farm?
01:35Look, I was at Roseworthy and, you know, we had a share house and we needed to eat.
01:39Yeah.
01:39And I love the idea of the Pheasant Farm.
01:42The whole concept of it was amazing.
01:43Also, the bonus was we brought home all leftovers on a Sunday night, so...
01:46And there'd be a Sunday feast.
01:47That's conviviality, isn't it?
01:49That's exactly what it's all about.
01:50Yeah.
01:50Pack your bags, because tonight we are going to wine country.
01:56Oh, my God.
01:58Maggie, the Barossa is one of the greatest wine regions, not just in Australia, but in
02:02the world, in my opinion.
02:03How does that affect the food scene?
02:05Well, I guess the great effect is that there are so many winemakers who love to drink and
02:12match with wine.
02:14It's...
02:15Of course.
02:15Oh, it's a wonderful place to be.
02:16Isn't it?
02:17Absolutely wonderful.
02:18Steve, you're trained in these two things that we're talking about.
02:22You're a trained chef.
02:22You're also a trained winemaker.
02:24Yep.
02:25Do you find them, like, is it two wolves inside me fighting for supremacy or do they
02:29go kind of collaboratively hand in hand?
02:31No, they really go together.
02:32I mean, winemaking is about flavour and it's really about texture as well.
02:37And I think, you know, that's really helped me in winemaking to understand that wine has
02:41to have length and breadth, but also this texture is the most important part of it.
02:44I 1000% agree with you.
02:46Yeah.
02:46Let's talk a bit more about that because I'm going to make some duck frites.
02:54So duck frites is basically steak frites, but instead of a steak, I'm cooking duck.
02:59It's not a classic dish, but you tend to see it around a little bit these days as people,
03:02you know, steak frites has become so popular.
03:04I think people are looking to see to change it up a little bit.
03:07But the reason I kind of wanted to cook this is literally what you were just saying, Steve,
03:11about texture.
03:12I don't know if your definition of texture in wine is the same as me is largely down to the
03:16tannins
03:16that are in it that give you that mouthfeel of either astringency or luxuriousness.
03:22And when you're matching it with something like, you know, duck, it's so important.
03:26It's a matrix of alcohol, acidity, phenolics, tannin, all that stuff going on, which is what makes wine so magic.
03:32And when you get those, when they coalesce properly, it's an incredible experience.
03:37And, you know, the food's the same.
03:38But for me, I would describe texture sometimes as weight.
03:43Oh, yeah.
03:44As weight.
03:45Because I'm always looking for a beautiful white wine, for instance, that has body and weight
03:52and, you know, that beginning, middle and end is so important.
03:57That's a great word for it.
03:59Yeah, that's just how I feel about it.
04:00I do sometimes feel, you know, winemakers are famous for it, having a bunch of words to describe, you know.
04:06It might be intimidating, right?
04:07Yeah.
04:07And I think often it's just like, it's the simple stuff like that that is actually what you should be
04:11talking about.
04:12That's the language, yeah.
04:14Weight's a great term.
04:15Yeah.
04:15So, duck breast, I don't bother scoring or doing any of that stuff or heating my pan, to be entirely
04:20honest.
04:21Cold pan.
04:22Ah, to render the fat.
04:24Yeah, just to render the fat.
04:25Nice.
04:26So then I turn the heat on, on my duck breast, I'll put a little weight on it
04:29and just sort of let that render.
04:31Yeah.
04:32So I'm going to balance, I guess, the richness of the duck breast and also the sauce, which is going
04:35to have some butter whisk through that in a little bit.
04:38Yeah.
04:38With the sweetness of the quince paste and then also some sherry vinegar, some sourness from sherry vinegar.
04:43Yeah.
04:43Yeah, cool.
04:44My wine is reducing and you can see how much fat is kind of rendering out of these duck breasts,
04:51even without any scoring of the skin.
04:53So when you flip them over, they can start to cook all the way through.
04:58And now the season, my sauce.
05:01The quince paste, the ultimate sweetener.
05:03Yeah.
05:04A lot of the sauces that you do see with duck, whether it's mulberries or blackberries or that kind of
05:08thing, they always have a little bit of sweetness to them.
05:11I'm going to throw the quince paste in and kind of start to whisk that through.
05:16I've got a lot going on in this pot at the moment, the thyme and the echelot.
05:20It's another thyme over here actually.
05:21It's drifting out.
05:22Yeah.
05:22But then I'm going to reduce the heat a little and start to whisk in some butter.
05:27That can be like a beurre blanc almost.
05:29Yeah, a little bit.
05:30A beurre rouge.
05:31Yeah.
05:32I mean, to be honest, the quince paste has done a bit of a job of thickening in it anyway.
05:36It does.
05:36Yeah.
05:37But the butter is going to add kind of another dimension to the pot.
05:40It does coalesce really easily.
05:42Yeah.
05:42Yeah.
05:43So there is my sauce, which I'm going to strain out now.
05:47These are velvety and lovely.
05:48Yes.
05:48Unctuous.
05:49I kind of went a little light on the butter as well, knowing how rich our duck and fryers
05:54are going to be, but let's consider this.
05:55Balance.
05:56Yes.
05:57Balance with food, balance with wine, and balance when you put food and wine together.
06:01Everything in moderation, but occasionally in excess.
06:03Oh, no, no.
06:04This moderation thing.
06:05I'm going to rest my duck for a minute and then finish it back off in the pan once we
06:08get
06:08ready to plate it.
06:09Okay.
06:10There's something about the smell of duck too that actually gets everything going in
06:12its library glands.
06:13Yeah.
06:14It's very aromatic.
06:15Yeah.
06:16It's quite sort of, quite evocative.
06:18Uh-uh.
06:18Yeah.
06:19Maggie's going to say pheasant's better, right?
06:21Well, it doesn't.
06:22See, pheasant has hardly any fat.
06:25Yeah.
06:25So we don't get that same initial burst that the fat does give us.
06:30All right.
06:31I'm going to take some oven fries out.
06:33I can't believe I'm about to serve Maggie beer oven fries.
06:35I can't resist them.
06:38Okay.
06:41And I'm almost ready to put that on the plate.
06:44Now I'm just going to return my duck breast to a hotter pan just to, this is where I think
06:50people go wrong when they rest things.
06:52Resting things is so important for the way that we cook, but then the oil is going to
06:56go cold.
06:57I'm like, the internal temperature isn't going to go cold because it's going to hold its heat
07:01so well.
07:01And if you're worried about the outside going cold, what you can do is exactly what I'm
07:05doing now and just give it a little flash to bring it back.
07:07Great call.
07:07But it's good that you say that because so many people feel that while it's resting,
07:13it's going to lose all temperature, particularly if it's a whole chook.
07:17Yeah.
07:18And that, so long as you're resting it upside down, keeps for 20...
07:23Resting upside down.
07:24So important.
07:25Yes.
07:25That's a great tip.
07:26It is vital.
07:27All the juices go back into the breast.
07:30All right.
07:32Our frites on first.
07:37I love chips.
07:37Yeah.
07:39The green to make me feel better about myself.
07:43And Adam, you really like that butter lettuce?
07:44You like the texture of that?
07:46I do.
07:46I do.
07:47I know you can use it a lot.
07:48I don't think everything needs that.
07:50I love iceberg lettuce in certain circumstances, but I think with the butter...
07:54Oh, having been brought up with only iceberg lettuce, I don't ever use it because,
07:59you know, you sort of had all your formative years and there was nothing else.
08:04Yeah.
08:04So the duck is there and then just, I won't overdo the sauce on this, but it's going to
08:08provide that nice sweetness that we need.
08:11Shining from that butter.
08:12Yeah.
08:14And that is duck frites.
08:24Just needs a glass of Pinot Noir.
08:26Oh yeah, that's what we need because duck and Pinot are kind of like the natural, natural
08:30friends.
08:30Yeah.
08:31But putting that sherry vinegar in at the last moment after you taste it, that's a secret,
08:36isn't it?
08:36I think so.
08:37Yeah.
08:37Just looking at it again.
08:39It's a bit like adding a bit of seasoning, isn't it?
08:41It's a bit like the salt and pepper and the sherry vinegar to balance it up.
08:44I do it in a lot of sauces.
08:45I even do it with stews because I just find that once you've cooked something for a long
08:47time, you lose some of that sharpness that you want at the ends.
08:50Yeah.
08:51After the break, we will venture further into wine country with Maggie and Steve.
09:06Welcome back to The Cook Up.
09:07Tonight, Australian food icon Maggie Beer and Australian wine legend Steve Flamsteed are
09:11travelling with me to wine country.
09:13Steve, what are you making?
09:14I'm making what we call Toulouse sausages and they're braised in, normally braised in fresh
09:20grape mark, right in the middle of vintage.
09:22Wow.
09:22It's not in the middle of vintage right now so we're substituting some really lovely muscatels,
09:26which I'm soaking in some Yarra Valley Pinot Noir.
09:28Sounds amazing.
09:29I'm going to braise the whole thing together.
09:31Lovely.
09:31Maggie, what are you making?
09:32Well, I'm going to grill some of these jumbo quail with a quince and rosemary glaze
09:40and with some whipped labneh and I'm going to steal a bit of Steve's polenta.
09:46I didn't tell him in advance though.
09:56Maggie.
09:57All right.
09:58Quail.
09:59I always learn something about birds when you come in and cook them, whether it's pheasants
10:04or chickens or ducks or quails.
10:06Well, I love quail but because they cook so quickly, it's so important that we tuck their
10:13wings behind them because this is the thickest piece of meat so we have to make sure it gets
10:21every little bit of fire.
10:23I guess the wings do cover up that breast meat and kind of act as a barrier, I guess.
10:28That's exactly right.
10:29And so I'm doing this quince glaze.
10:31Usually I do it with leftover quince from the cheese platter.
10:35But I'm being really extravagant today and use most of it.
10:41And I've always thinned down the quince with verjuice and a little bit of olive oil to make
10:49Oh, beautiful.
10:50To make a paste.
10:52And that's where we get the sweet sour too, that agrodolce.
10:57Oh, lovely.
10:58In your career, Maggie, you've always been very clear that you are a cook.
11:02Absolutely.
11:03And not a chef.
11:04Yes.
11:05What is the difference in your mind?
11:07Okay.
11:07In my mind, because I was never taught to cook.
11:09I just cook by instinct and I don't follow anything except for my gut and produce.
11:15So I'm just what I would call a produce-driven cook.
11:20Amazing.
11:21And I know I was pretty, you know, I led my own kitchen, but I never would have gone
11:27and led someone else's kitchen.
11:29Oh, okay.
11:30See, there's the distinction.
11:32Can I tell you, like, from watching you for so many years, can I tell you what I think
11:35the distinction is?
11:36Yeah.
11:37It's the sort of the raison d'etre.
11:39It's the, a chef is cooking because it is their job.
11:44They have to.
11:44A cook is, in my mind, always cooking for a different reason.
11:48It's either the necessity of getting food on the table or the joy of it.
11:52And when I watch you cook, it's that joy of a cook, not the joy of a chef that comes
11:55out.
11:56Well, it's definitely the joy.
11:58I can tell you that.
11:59But it's also my permission to tell myself it's okay if I'm messy because I was never,
12:04I was never taught to be controlled.
12:08I truly love the idea of tucking the wings behind to keep the quail breasts kind of exposed.
12:16Exposed is right.
12:17And, of course, we have to have the grill hot.
12:20Very hot.
12:20Which we do.
12:21The heat coming off that.
12:22And I'm going to do nearly all of the cooking on these.
12:26Oh, on the bone side.
12:27On the bone side.
12:28Yeah, right.
12:30Amazing.
12:30I'm not sure I'm going to fit four on here, but that's only three.
12:33That's fine.
12:33We'll fit what we can.
12:35There's only three of us.
12:36We'll be okay.
12:37Oh, yeah.
12:37That's right.
12:40Really, really important.
12:42Always not to overcrowd.
12:44I love quail.
12:45Yeah.
12:45So do I.
12:46And I love eating with my fingers.
12:47That's what I love about it.
12:49It's like an experience rather than just slice and go.
12:53Yes.
12:53I can't wait to see how they turn out.
12:58Steve.
13:00The Toulouse sausages cooked in grape must sounds incredible.
13:05What are we doing?
13:06It's a dish I first came across when I was working in Bachelorette, my very first wine
13:09experience.
13:10Right in the middle of harvest.
13:12It was sort of like a mid-harvest dish where they go and get basically a bucket full of
13:17fresh fermenting grape mark, which was Gamay.
13:19So they're semi-sweet, partly fermented, and then some really lovely big pork Toulouse sausages.
13:26And basically it was like tossing vegetables and a bit of saucisson sec together in the pan,
13:31brown off the sausages, put it all together, a big sort of handful of this grape mark and
13:36some of the wine as well, a bit of beef stock.
13:38Okay.
13:39Whack it in the oven.
13:40Well, I will tend these sausages for you.
13:41You tell me what else we've got to do.
13:43I'm just going to saute these vegetables here a little.
13:44Okay.
13:45So you've got the saucisson sec, I guess the dried sausages kind of like that.
13:49I don't want to use French, but I can't think of any other way to say that.
13:52Dried sausage.
13:52It's like a French version of salami that's sort of heavy on the black pepper.
13:57Exactly.
13:58Yeah.
13:58And, you know, that lovely sort of strong flavour.
14:00Yes.
14:01And there's French people now screaming, it's not the French version of salami.
14:04It's not saucisson sec.
14:05Yeah, that's right.
14:05Anyway, it works.
14:07And I'll throw a little bit of butter in there as well.
14:10Lovely.
14:11Just get that nice butter browning up.
14:12You know, one of the things, you're a winemaker in the Yarra Valley.
14:15Yep.
14:16One of the things I love about wine country is actually not just that there's great wine happening.
14:22You talk to any winemaker, they've always got some secret project going on.
14:28It's like, oh, you know, I'm pickling cherries over here.
14:30You know, I've got 25 hams curing in my legs of pork curing in one of my old bowel rooms.
14:37Yep.
14:39Do you have secret projects happening?
14:41Always.
14:41And look, the other thing about winemakers is they love eating.
14:44And I think they love eating and sharing.
14:46Anyone who likes eating and cooking likes sharing.
14:48Yeah.
14:48Winemaking is the ultimate thing to share.
14:51In any winemaker's lifetime, you might only get to make about 30 wines.
14:54You might only get about 30 videos.
14:56So you've got 29 years to get the 30th one right.
14:59That's a sobering thought, isn't it?
15:01It is sobering.
15:01And you never, ever make your best wine.
15:03You're always trying to do something a bit better, a bit different.
15:05Something that you tried a couple of years ago, do it again and push it a different way.
15:09I guess you don't have to be superstitious, but you do have to be a philosopher.
15:13Absolutely philosophical.
15:15I'll come back in a minute.
15:18Maggie, the quails are looking good.
15:21Well, you see, I forgot to do something really important.
15:24So I'm having to pivot and do something else.
15:26Because I forgot to squash them down.
15:29Right.
15:30So they were flat.
15:32And so they would cook more evenly.
15:36And I'm going to turn them over and put them into the pan now for the other side.
15:40Because when you find you've done something or forgotten something, you've got to find a way of making sure they're
15:46going to be perfect.
15:47You will not hear me complain about you putting something into butter.
15:50So you go for your life.
15:52Okay.
15:54I'll just a little bit of oil to stop the butter from burning.
15:59Lovely.
15:59And then see it all burn.
16:02Oh, lovely.
16:03Lovely char.
16:04The char is so, so important.
16:09And I'll just put them, they'll take about, they've had about six minutes there and they'll take about three minutes
16:16here.
16:16Okay, great.
16:17But I'll just do that and I'll whip some labneh.
16:20Amazing.
16:21I love making labneh.
16:23It's so, so simple.
16:24It's essentially hung yogurt.
16:26It's hung yogurt overnight and you can decide how soft you want it.
16:30Yes.
16:31But I tend to just make it and have it.
16:33And if I want to have it softer and a little more flavoursome, I put salt.
16:39I put a couple of tablespoons of olive oil.
16:43Do you think, and I want your honest opinion on this Maggie, people are terrified of oil in cooking.
16:51And I think it comes from, I don't know what it comes from.
16:55Just the, the, the, the processed food industry, when they started to have, sell reduced fat milks and reduced fat
17:03things and replace the fat with sugar and.
17:05Hysteria.
17:06Okay.
17:07Hysteria about fat.
17:08I'm glad you said it, not me.
17:09And it's not just oil, it's butter.
17:12Yeah.
17:12But, um, and without fat, you don't have flavour or the carrying of flavour.
17:18That looks fantastic.
17:19I'm going to take them off.
17:20Okay.
17:21And let them just, um, just rest.
17:24Lovely.
17:24They'll need quite a bit of resting.
17:26And I know we were whipping, um, but here, whenever I'm resting something, I always just upside down.
17:37And always drizzle a little bit of verjuice and what comes out is some jus.
17:43Okay.
17:43You're essentially making like a, a, a dressing or something.
17:47Yes.
17:47Yeah.
17:48Making like a dressing.
17:49And with it, and that's whipped labneh.
17:51Lemon.
17:52This is another trick that I've learnt from you.
17:53Resting.
17:54Upside down.
17:55Upside down.
17:56So the, the, the, the breast is at the bottom rather than at the top.
17:59That's right.
17:59Cause everything comes back down because it's more, well, more vulnerable to overcooking often.
18:08Beautiful.
18:08And I can't wait to see how it all goes together.
18:09Cause these are flavours that would not normally meet, but the labneh and the quail, I think it's going
18:13to be beautiful.
18:17Steve, this smells incredible.
18:19Yeah.
18:20You can see I've put a little bit of flour in there too, just to create a tiny bit of
18:22a roux.
18:23Okay.
18:23I just want a tiny bit of thickness in there.
18:25I don't want it to be like gravy, but I want it just to have a little tiny bit of
18:27texture.
18:29Um, some beef stock.
18:31Okay.
18:32A little bit of the, um, the Pinot Noir that the muscatel's have been soaking in.
18:35So you've been soaking the muscatels in wine to rehydrate them.
18:39That's a cool trick.
18:40I've not actually not heard of that before.
18:42That's great.
18:43And then, um, we'll use those muscatels obviously in the actual dish itself.
18:46Yeah.
18:46I'd like just to let it reduce for a few minutes on the stove just to get all that lovely
18:49flavour
18:49off the pan.
18:50Yes.
18:51Um, and also you'll see that flour just having a bit of an effect.
18:53Yeah.
18:53It's just going to give a little bit of delvediness.
18:55So the sausages, all of our veg and, well, I mean, that's just a pile of flavour right
19:01there, isn't it?
19:01Lots of goodies there.
19:02All into the baking tray?
19:04Yep.
19:04And then how long in the oven roughly?
19:06Probably 45 minutes to an hour.
19:07Okay.
19:08And not too hot.
19:08Quite slow too.
19:10Just so it braises away.
19:11Braise it and bring it all together.
19:12What a, this is, this is a dish that is, uh, I don't know, there's something soulful about
19:17it, Steve, I have to say.
19:18It's like all the great food.
19:19It's a dish that was inspired really from a, you know, a farming culture.
19:22And, you know, I mean, peasants the correct word.
19:24And the peasant food is always the most beautiful food, that Moorish, succulent, get a piece
19:29of bread and dunk it in there kind of food.
19:30Well, I love food that takes its time like this because, you know, there's so much focus
19:33on getting everything done as quickly as possible and, you know, I don't have time
19:36to cook.
19:37One of my favourite times is basically it's on Sunday or Saturday when, you know, we're hanging
19:42out at home.
19:42You know what you're going to cook in the morning.
19:44You basically start doing it in the morning.
19:45By the lunchtime you've had a glass of wine.
19:48It's in the oven or you're prepping and then it goes in the oven and spends the rest of
19:51the afternoon cooking away.
19:52So, I mean, that's kind of like paradise for me.
19:54And then the family's all there and we eat together.
19:56The one thing about winemakers, you guys do know how to enjoy life.
19:59We love to eat.
20:00Yeah.
20:00When we return it's time to taste and we'll chat about how to make quince paste the
20:03Maggie Beer and Steve Flamsteed way.
20:16Welcome back to The Cook Up where good friends and even greater cooks Maggie Beer and Steve
20:20Flamsteed are making food from wine country.
20:23Steve, how's it all looking?
20:24Pretty good.
20:25Just finishing off the polenta now.
20:26Oh, great.
20:27And Maggie, how's this going to go?
20:29Well, I think I want to have a little bit of Steve's polenta.
20:33I think that's just what it needs now.
20:35Steve, can you help us out with some polenta over here?
20:37Have you got enough?
20:39Heaps.
20:39Heaps.
20:41Can I set that up or do you want to...
20:42Oh, can I do it because I'm just not...
20:45I'm getting a bit of an idea of how this dynamic would have worked in the pheasant farm
20:49back in the 90s.
20:50Oh, I was terrible, wasn't I?
20:52No, you were.
20:52We just followed the whirlwind round.
20:54That's all.
20:55It was good.
20:56The whirling dervish.
20:57That's it.
20:58Thank you very much, sir.
20:59No worries.
20:59Thank you, Steve.
21:00I hope I haven't taken too much.
21:02Okay.
21:03Now, a quail.
21:05A quail has to go on top and be oozy down.
21:10That looks incredible, eh?
21:12And a bit of the whipped labneh.
21:16Okay.
21:17I'm just going to go.
21:19I'm just going to go.
21:20Big, big dollop.
21:21And then the gremolata.
21:23You know, that very, very fresh gremolata.
21:28Oh, my goodness.
21:28And, of course, I can't do anything without that last flourish.
21:32Last bit of olive oil.
21:33Of olive oil.
21:35Maggie, that looks beautiful.
21:36Absolutely beautiful.
21:37So simple.
21:38But best on a charcoal barbecue if you have one.
21:42Amazing.
21:42Amazing.
21:45Steve.
21:46Okay.
21:47We're just ready to serve up now.
21:49Kind of under-appreciated polenta, I think.
21:51Oh, I love polenta.
21:52And I think it's just such a beautiful base for almost anything.
21:55And the other cool thing about polenta is if you've got nothing,
21:57nothing left in the kitchen.
21:58Yeah.
21:59Or in the fridge.
22:00If you've got polenta, you can always find something to cook up
22:02and braise and stick on it.
22:04It's just, again, that beautiful sort of peasant food based
22:08to all those beautiful peasant dishes.
22:10Those sausages, Steve, look like the stuff dreams are made of.
22:13Yeah.
22:14Just the way it all becomes so plump and juicy and flavourful.
22:17And these muscatels have just plumped up beautifully.
22:20Mm.
22:20Made a bit of a drip on the plate there.
22:21My goodness.
22:22I'm going to put a little bit of fresh thyme on
22:23just to finish it off as well.
22:25Just a few little sprigs.
22:26Oh, nice.
22:26That smell there.
22:27I love it.
22:28And then finish with a little bit of this sauce.
22:30Stop it.
22:31Toulouse sausages braised with grapes and vincotto.
22:33And whip labneh with grilled quail.
22:44Steve, this is an absolutely beautiful looking dish.
22:46And they're really beautiful sausages too.
22:48Oh.
22:49That lovely pork character.
22:50And then a bit of sweetness from those muscatels.
22:53Mm.
22:53The muscatels.
22:53And the braised echelot in there.
22:54Yeah, it's a nice combination.
22:55Yeah, and the echelot.
22:56I think it's absolutely luscious.
23:00Peasant food.
23:01Beautiful peasant food.
23:01Mm.
23:02But to have a white wine with dishes like this.
23:04Okay.
23:05It has to be a big wine.
23:08And...
23:08What are we drinking?
23:09We're drinking Viognier, Vigilius Viognier.
23:14And it's my absolute favourite.
23:15Because I talked earlier about white.
23:18Oh, beautiful.
23:19But it's also got grit.
23:21Yep.
23:21It's round in the palate.
23:22It's not...
23:23There's not too much sweetness.
23:25And the finish.
23:25Yeah.
23:25And the finish.
23:26A beautiful combination.
23:28Yeah, and quite cool.
23:28I'm glad you...
23:29Love it.
23:30I'm glad you approve I was...
23:31Can we use our fingers?
23:31Is that all right?
23:32Well, I actually want to use fingers.
23:35Because, you know, quail is meant to be eaten off the bone.
23:38Because quail is, I guess, quite a lean meat.
23:42The lavender provides that richness to it.
23:44Wow.
23:45Actually, without too much fat.
23:46It's richness without, you know, a lot of fat to it.
23:49Yes.
23:49Well, I'm going to finish my wine.
23:51But if you could indulge me...
23:53Yeah.
23:54...by talking to me a little bit about...
23:56Oh.
23:57...these guys.
23:58Mm-hmm.
23:58So, we have some...
23:59That's a pretty historic looking fruit.
24:01Can I ever?
24:02Yeah.
24:02And we have, obviously, Maggie, your quince paste, which is...
24:05Yes.
24:05I don't know, it's just become the thing in Australia.
24:08If you haven't eaten cheese, you haven't Maggie's quince paste.
24:10But this is something that the two of you kind of worked on quite a lot back in the day.
24:14Well, we did.
24:15Because at the pheasant farm, we planted a quince orchard.
24:19But then there needs a period of drying the quince paste.
24:24And so...
24:25Well, yeah.
24:26I mean, we tried everything.
24:27We tried the oven with the pot light on overnight, the convection oven on the lowest possible setting.
24:31And they kind of work.
24:32But then we...
24:33Colin had these beautiful machines to incubate pheasant eggs.
24:37Pheasant eggs.
24:38Colin being Maggie's husband, just for those at home who don't know.
24:40And I think Colin might have suggested that we give it a quince.
24:42No, no, no.
24:42We took it over.
24:43And because the thing about the incubator is it can go at a very controlled low temperature.
24:50And so we had these little moulds after a few tries.
24:54And then we dried them, what, one or two days?
24:58Two days.
24:59I can't quite remember.
25:00A little tiny fan force going on at the same time, moving the egg around.
25:04From both sides.
25:04In a pheasant egg incubator.
25:06Yes.
25:06What a wonderful story.
25:07I mean, it seems like such an important story for the history of Australian food, you know, as you talk
25:12about that.
25:14Absolutely fascinating.
25:15Maggie, Steve, thank you so much for joining us.
25:16This has been so much fun.
25:17I've really enjoyed my school.
25:18Thanks for having us.
25:19It's been great fun.
25:20Well, so have I.
25:21Good to cook together again.
25:22Yeah.
25:24Well, tonight has proven that in wine country, all you need is a glass of wine, some good food, and
25:28some great friends, and you'll have a great time.
25:30If you want more of The Cook Up and more delicious food ideas, follow SBS Food on socials.
25:34I'm Adam Liao.
25:34Thank you for watching The Cook Up.
25:36Thank you so much.
25:37For me.
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