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00:01Over 20 years ago, I was based in South Africa, reporting from across the continent for the BBC.
00:08It's Big Papa, here's the news.
00:10It was an unforgettable experience.
00:13Roll up, roll up, the best lamb in Marrakesh!
00:16But I've always wanted to come back.
00:19He'll turn.
00:21And find out more about the Africa we rarely see on TV.
00:26One mistake, I'd clap you.
00:28Oh my word, I better not make a mistake then.
00:31Now, I'm travelling across this vast continent to discover why life can feel so much bigger and bolder here than
00:39anywhere else on Earth.
00:41I'll be uncovering some deep family roots.
00:44You are from Africa.
00:45I knew I was a warrior god.
00:48And getting the chance to live life local style.
00:51Woo!
00:54As I experience the speed.
00:56Woo-hoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!
00:58The sights.
00:59Check out that view.
01:01And the soul.
01:02I'm going to see you!
01:04Of this vibrant and varied land.
01:07Oh, look at that.
01:08Animals crossing the road.
01:10Woo!
01:12Join me on my African adventure.
01:26Nigeria's nickname is the giant of Africa.
01:28That's partly to do with the size of the population and the economy.
01:32But I think it's much more than that.
01:35Everything is larger than life here.
01:38The voices seem louder.
01:40The personalities more outsized.
01:42There's nothing shy or retiring or hushed about this place.
01:46And you know what?
01:48It's exciting.
01:49It's exhilarating.
01:51I want to find out what underpins Nigeria's confidence and exuberance.
01:58To discover why Nigerians live life large, I'm heading about 50 miles inland from the coastal
02:04metropolis of Lagos to the city of Abayakuta.
02:10While I'm here, I'll be getting a taste of the sport taking Africa by storm.
02:21And serving up some moves in the country's most exciting dance studio.
02:26One, two, three, four.
02:29Like you're kicking a football.
02:31Just like Man City, man.
02:32Like I'm kicking a football.
02:35But first, I'm off to discover a Nigerian art form.
02:38That's to die for.
02:46Abayakuta is a center for the Yoruba people, one of Nigeria's biggest ethnic groups, known
02:53for their creativity, craft and textile skills.
02:58The city is off the tourist track, but I've always wanted to come here.
03:04My mum worked in the fashion industry, and I love a good suit, so I'm excited to get hands
03:10on with world-famous Nigerian fabrics.
03:16Adire is the Yoruba tradition of dyeing cloth, with a variety of clever, creative techniques.
03:23And it's at the heart of the country's current fashion boom.
03:29Lizzie Adebayejo is one of Nigeria's top creators.
03:34Ah, you must be Lizzie.
03:37Oh, yes.
03:37Hello, I'm Clive.
03:39Very pleased to meet you.
03:41Oh, wow, same here.
03:41Ekaru, as they say.
03:43Ekaru.
03:45Ekaru.
03:45Ekaru.
03:45And you really tried, that was great.
03:46I tried, I tried.
03:48Good morning in Yoruba.
03:49Good morning.
03:50What a wonderful, tranquil workspace this is.
03:53And Adire?
03:55And Adire?
03:56Adire.
03:57Adire.
03:57That's great.
03:58Adire.
03:59Adire.
03:59Okay, that is the art of tie?
04:02And dye.
04:02Tie and dye.
04:03Yeah.
04:04Okay, I recognize that from the 60s and 70s, tie and dye.
04:07It's the traditional way of making different, beautiful patterns on fabric.
04:13Well, I'd love to see a bit more of the play here.
04:15You're welcome.
04:16Just come around and see what we are doing.
04:22This is an industry driven mostly by women.
04:25Patterns and themes passed down from mother to daughter.
04:28But today, I'm going to learn the basic technique.
04:32Here, you're using string.
04:34Yes.
04:35To block the color.
04:38Impregnating the fabric once you've dyed it.
04:41And you're actually tying.
04:42So this is tie and dye.
04:43Oh, yes.
04:43This is tie and dye.
04:46Tie and dye.
04:47Tie and dye.
04:47Tie and dye.
04:48Tie and dye.
04:48Tie and dye.
04:48Tie and dye.
04:48Tie and dye.
04:49There are three primary methods used to create amazing patterns.
04:54Adire Oniko is one of the oldest, dating back to the early 19th century.
04:59It literally involves tying the fabric with string to protect those areas from the dye,
05:04before adding it to a color bath.
05:07So here we go.
05:08A bit of string.
05:09Put that down there.
05:10Then bring it round.
05:13There we go.
05:13There we go.
05:14Make it very tight.
05:15Very tight.
05:16Very tight.
05:17Yank it, Myri.
05:18Yank it.
05:21Then I knot it, right?
05:22Yeah, you knot it twice.
05:23Knot it twice.
05:24Oh, wow.
05:25I got a good student here.
05:27Twice?
05:27Yeah, twice.
05:31Yaaah.
05:31Three times?
05:32Bit of a hat trick.
05:33Okay, go one more if you want to go.
05:35Yeah, man.
05:36Ding, ding, ding.
05:38Boom.
05:39Boom.
05:40He made it again.
05:40Oh, this is as they yell.
05:42Thank you very much indeed.
05:43And I just go like this.
05:45Yes.
05:45Snip, snip, snip.
05:47Bing.
05:49By the bing.
05:52She's looking at me very strangely.
05:56I think she thinks I'm crackers.
06:00Then we mix powder dye with hydrosulphide and caustic soda.
06:04There we go.
06:06Together they help bind the dye to the fabric and give it its vibrancy.
06:10Then we get our hot water and we just pour this in and we be careful.
06:13Be careful.
06:14Because we're going to get fused.
06:16Ooh.
06:18Bubbly, bubbly.
06:19Yeah.
06:20Bubbly, bubbly.
06:20That's the soup getting ready.
06:22Yes.
06:22Yeah.
06:23What's on the fire?
06:25Yeah.
06:25What's cooking?
06:26You're the sorcerer and I'm the apprentice.
06:29I'm the sorcerer's apprentice.
06:32Okay, let's see your spoon and see what we have around there.
06:34You see, what do you have?
06:35Blue first.
06:36So I've got the blue first.
06:38Then the purple is coming out.
06:39And the purple's come around the back.
06:40So that's a sign that it's good.
06:43And then just pour it in.
06:46Ooh.
06:47Mixing that in and then.
06:48You're going with the fabric.
06:50We're going with the fabric.
06:51Oh.
06:52Here we go.
06:54Yeah.
06:54Get all that white fabric well and truly mixed.
06:59Yeah.
07:00This is really good.
07:01In the soup.
07:02I can see the purple in it too, you know.
07:04It's very active.
07:05And all the chemicals are very good.
07:07Yeah, they're binding well.
07:08Yes.
07:09Here we go.
07:10You are really doing great.
07:12Pull them all together.
07:13Should I squeeze it?
07:14No.
07:15Don't squeeze it, man.
07:17Yeah.
07:17Ready to rinse it all off.
07:19Here.
07:19Okay.
07:20Yeah.
07:22The next step in this delicate process is to cut off the string without damaging the fabric.
07:28This is how the pattern is going to be revealed.
07:32Okay.
07:33So.
07:34Baba scissors.
07:36Ooh.
07:36Yeah.
07:37Look at that.
07:39Amazing.
07:42And lastly, we unfurl the entire piece so it can dry in the sun.
07:47Clive, this is a beautiful one.
07:49Oh, my word.
07:50Look at that.
07:51That's amazing.
07:56Who would have thought?
07:57Bit of cloth, bit of string, and a butterfly has been created.
08:03Beautiful.
08:04Yeah, beautiful.
08:04Absolutely beautiful.
08:06Look at that.
08:10Let that dry.
08:11Yeah.
08:18We did it.
08:23A diare is not just beautiful, it's a cultural heritage passed down through generations.
08:33Clive, you're welcome to our museum.
08:36Yeah, where we have different designs.
08:39But each one of the design has its name and the reason why it's created.
08:44So each design has its own individual meaning.
08:47Oh, yes.
08:49Like this is owonifari.
08:51Owon is money.
08:52Owon?
08:53Owon is money.
08:54Okay.
08:55And when you said owonifari, money is what you need to do whatever you want to do.
08:59And you know...
09:00So this is an owonifari pattern.
09:01Yes.
09:02You make this design, you wear this and you're leaving home, you don't have to be asked where
09:07you are going.
09:07We know you are going for a business trip.
09:09A business suit.
09:10Yeah, a business suit.
09:12All right.
09:12Well, what about this one then?
09:13We call it alomoko.
09:15Alomoko.
09:16And when you say alomoko, somebody cuddling.
09:18So it's husband and wife cuddling.
09:20Cuddling together.
09:21And that is why you see the line going into one another.
09:25So this is a symbol of love?
09:27Exactly.
09:28Yeah.
09:29I suppose I should get this for my wife Catherine.
09:32Why not?
09:33Yes.
09:34Alomoko.
09:35Alomoko.
09:35That's beautiful.
09:37And the pattern that I made outside, that was squares.
09:41What does that signify?
09:43That stands for balancing.
09:44Balance.
09:45Yeah.
09:45Okay, steadiness.
09:46Sure-footedness.
09:48Oh, you get it all.
09:48Which is why I made it.
09:49You see that?
09:50And that is what you chose to make.
09:52That's great.
09:53There you go.
09:53Yeah, that's great.
09:54Steady.
09:55Solid.
09:56Yes.
09:56Firm.
09:57Beautiful.
09:58Yeah.
09:58Yeah.
09:59That knowledge was an unexpected bonus.
10:01But as well as that, I think a diaray will make the perfect gift.
10:06All these patterns and colours, they're absolutely gorgeous.
10:09I mean, I've already got the piece that I made, which I'm going to take away, but I'd
10:12like something else for my sister Judith in Jamaica, for my mum, for my niece Nia.
10:19Sonia and Lorna, my two kid sisters as well.
10:21Look at this.
10:21This stands out.
10:23Green and gold colours of the Jamaican flag.
10:27Yeah.
10:28That'll do.
10:40When I was covering stories in Nigeria, something I never had time to experience, and always
10:46wanted to, was one of the country's famously extravagant celebrations known as Owambe.
10:56Owambe doesn't mean just any party.
10:58These celebrations are extra special, and one of the main features is a massive spread
11:03of food.
11:08Tejemola is the woman in charge of the catering for today's event, which is a high profile
11:13birthday party.
11:14Who's the guy whose birthday it is?
11:17He's a celebrity guy.
11:18He's a gospel musician.
11:20Gospel musician.
11:21Yes.
11:21Right.
11:22Okay.
11:22We're expecting 1,002 guests.
11:25The two don't bother me as much.
11:26It's 1,000 that I'm worried about.
11:28You've got to cook for them all.
11:29Yes.
11:29We're going to do that.
11:33I can smell fish.
11:34Yes.
11:35Oh, what's your secret ingredient?
11:37You want me to tell you that?
11:38You could tell me, but you'd have to kill me.
11:40That's fair enough.
11:41I understand.
11:43My family's from the Caribbean, so if there's one thing I do know, it's how to grill fish.
11:48Have you trained before?
11:49I mean, you know, I did work at a pie factory.
11:51That's it.
11:52That's it.
11:52You know, I'm a part-time chef.
11:54The rest of the time, I'm a news reader.
11:56I'm sure your recipe is not as good as mine.
12:01I'll tell you what.
12:02I'll tell you my recipe if you tell me yours.
12:05You know what?
12:05Tell me yours and I'll tell you mine.
12:08Mine involves fish.
12:10Tell me more about yours.
12:15Oh, dear.
12:20Today's event is a 50th birthday do for a gospel musician known as a Lyo melody singer.
12:27And with 130,000 followers on social media, no wonder this party is so big.
12:33And it's important to look the part.
12:44The music's pumping.
12:46The party's getting underway.
12:47The guests are here.
12:48And there's a reporter recording everything, asking the people who are coming how they're
12:53feeling and recording it for posterity.
12:56It's a big deal.
13:01Hello.
13:02Hello, hello, hello.
13:02Hello.
13:04I just want to check this kind of big event.
13:06I mean, it reminds me of a Hollywood premiere.
13:08You're going to be seeing a lot of the Nollywood faces.
13:12Nollywood faces.
13:13Nollywood areas.
13:13So this is a Nollywood party.
13:15Yes.
13:15Nollywood is the Nigerian equivalent of Hollywood.
13:18So the biggest stars will be here.
13:21Yes.
13:21You've got two microphones.
13:22Can I help you?
13:23Oh, yes.
13:24Is that okay?
13:25Is that all right?
13:25There is a lot of stress off me right now.
13:28Can I leave here for you?
13:29Oh, off your shoulders, the weight has been lifted.
13:34Hello there.
13:34I'm Clive Myrie.
13:35And I'm on what is a black carpet, but actually a red carpet.
13:39In truth, for this amazing 50th birthday celebration
13:43of a very, very big personality here in Nigeria.
13:48Can I ask, who are you wearing?
13:50Off Innovation.
13:51Ah.
13:52Okay.
13:53Sounds wonderful.
13:54It looks amazing.
13:55And what about the music that you want to dance to tonight?
13:57What do you want to hear?
13:58Well, every good music.
13:59Yeah.
14:00We are here to dance to every good music.
14:01What about a bring gun?
14:03We are good to go.
14:04Good to go.
14:05All right.
14:05Well, have a fantastic time.
14:06You too.
14:07It's a pleasure to meet you.
14:08Take care.
14:09Thanks so much.
14:10There you go.
14:16With hundreds of guests already arrived, it's time to get inside.
14:24It's enormous in here.
14:25The worth of the Nigerian events industry has been estimated in the billions of dollars.
14:32Not surprising when even birthday parties are this size.
14:37As well-known guests start to arrive, they're surrounded by cameras.
14:45Outside, in less glamorous surroundings, the food service is in full swing.
14:50It's crowded in there.
14:51Okay.
14:52A lot of mouths to feed.
14:53How's it going?
14:53It's going fine.
14:54It's going great.
14:55Are you running out of any food?
14:56No.
14:57No?
14:57Yes.
14:58Plenty of food.
15:01Bit of garnish.
15:03Oh, yeah.
15:04Final touch.
15:05Done.
15:06Okay.
15:06Okay.
15:07With over a thousand hungry people to feed, I've been pressed into helping out.
15:21There you go.
15:23Enjoy.
15:34Hello.
15:36Hi.
15:38There you go.
15:43Well, I've served some food, and I think everyone's happy.
15:47And I'm hearing the birthday boy has arrived.
15:58Now, this is quite the entrance.
16:13It's getting crazy, but it's wonderful.
16:16It's a bit like a gift or a tip, but more extravagant, and you make sure that everyone sees.
16:25Hello.
16:26Clive Larry, BBC.
16:28What an amazing party.
16:30Wow.
16:30Absolutely incredible.
16:32Thank you to God be the glory.
16:34Yeah, yeah, yeah.
16:35I know you're feeling the love here in the room.
16:36Yeah, the love.
16:37The love, yeah.
16:38The love is amazing.
16:40Amazing.
16:41Yeah?
16:41How long did it take you to set the whole thing up?
16:43Like three, four months.
16:44Three, four months?
16:45Yeah.
16:46Well, this is your 50th birthday party.
16:48What's your 60th gonna look like?
16:51It's gonna be even bigger than this.
16:54Yeah, yeah.
16:54Oh, all the best, man.
16:55I'm happy to have you guys here.
16:56No problem.
16:57Listen, my wife, my mum, and my dad would love a selfie from me.
17:01Is that all right?
17:02Yeah, that's right.
17:03Let's get this stuff.
17:04Okay.
17:06Come on in.
17:07Come on in.
17:08Here we go.
17:09Yeah.
17:10Say cheese.
17:11Cheers.
17:19Ever since I was a kid in Bolton, one of my biggest passions has been football.
17:23And it's by far the biggest sport in Africa.
17:26But maybe not for long.
17:29In 2024, the Nigerian women's basketball team was the first African side, male or female,
17:37to make the Olympic quarter-finals.
17:39One, two, three, go.
17:43And in the past few years, there has been a significant rise in the number of local leagues,
17:48tournaments and academies to engage young players and find the stars of tomorrow.
17:55One of those is run by coach Babatunde.
17:59You've got the ball very well, good.
18:01I see the players are already limbering up.
18:04I'm ready.
18:05It's a beautiful day to shoot a few hoops.
18:08And a little bit of very light exercise.
18:12Coach Babatunde was born to play basketball.
18:15His dad was the national coach.
18:17And now Babatunde is head coach of Ogun State.
18:22Oh, and he's six foot nine.
18:25Hi Clive.
18:26Coach.
18:27Yeah.
18:28Clive.
18:28Good to see you.
18:29Good to see you.
18:30My God, you're a tall chap.
18:32Yeah, I'm a tall chap.
18:34And everyone here, they just seem so enthusiastic about basketball.
18:38That's why they're here.
18:39Yeah, that's the reason why we have them here.
18:41They love the game of basketball.
18:43They all want to be a professional.
18:44There's nothing stopping you from becoming the next Mikey Jordan.
18:48Yeah.
18:49And of course these young people, they will see those stars.
18:51They see it.
18:52And they will also possibly see a way to try to make money, to get away from probably some
18:59of the difficult conditions that they've grown up in here in Nigeria.
19:02Yeah.
19:03Because the economy, everything, is not really encouraging the kids.
19:09But they strive out of nothing to become somebody.
19:12Yeah.
19:13Who knows?
19:14Many of them graduated into being in the U.S., on scholarship in the U.S.
19:18Oh, right.
19:19That's an important thing as well.
19:20You can get a scholarship.
19:21You can get a scholarship through sports.
19:23To get to America through sports.
19:24Through sports.
19:25And that's something that a lot of the people here might want to get involved in.
19:28Yes.
19:29So before you know it, you're a future champion.
19:31Yeah.
19:31Well, hopefully you're going to be training some of the next Olympic champions.
19:36Yeah.
19:36Why not?
19:36And NBA players.
19:38NBA players.
19:38And women professional players too.
19:41So that's good.
19:44Now, I'd usually be more comfortable kicking a ball than throwing a ball.
19:48But Baba Tunde is a national coach, so I'm getting a lesson from the best.
19:52This is the ball.
19:53That's the ball.
19:54That unites every basketballer.
19:55Uh-huh.
19:56Okay.
19:56Yeah.
19:57This is the national kick that we all want to share.
19:59Okay.
19:59That's the national kick.
20:01The national kick that we all want to share.
20:02That's the nice way of putting it.
20:03Now, if you want to bounce the ball.
20:05Yeah.
20:05Your hand should form a corner on the circumference of the ball.
20:08Yeah.
20:08Then when the ball comes into your palm there.
20:11Yeah.
20:11You push it down where?
20:12Although I didn't expect the audience.
20:15Good.
20:16Good dribble.
20:17Can you all put your hands together for me?
20:19Yes.
20:20Now you can see.
20:21Now.
20:21That's lovely.
20:23Now, the next thing is passing off the ball.
20:27Okay.
20:28Good chest pass.
20:29Woo!
20:29Put your hands together for you.
20:31Look at the ball through.
20:32Knock his head over.
20:34Can you see?
20:35Oh.
20:35All right.
20:36Push it out.
20:36Yeah, you have to push it out.
20:38And leave your head forward.
20:39There.
20:40Let's go.
20:41This way.
20:41Chest.
20:42Good.
20:42Now we are attacking our opponent.
20:44We are attacking our opponent.
20:45Let's attack our opponent back there.
20:47Let's go.
20:48I'm open.
20:50Oh!
20:51Put the ball in the basket.
20:52Oh!
20:57That's the first basket I have ever scored in my life.
21:02Babatunde's basketball school is very democratic.
21:05Taking on kids of every ability.
21:07And despite my one basket, there's streets ahead of me.
21:13Now I'm going to have a shooting competition with Claf.
21:18Can I have Claf here?
21:20All right.
21:20Who can go on a shooting competition with Claf?
21:23Are you sure?
21:24Yes!
21:25Okay.
21:25Let's have you.
21:27Even the dogs know which way this shooting match is going to go.
21:33Oh, he's really good though.
21:35He's really good.
21:36He's really good.
21:38Come on.
21:39Oh!
21:41Let's have him.
21:49Oh!
21:51Almost.
21:52Almost.
21:57Oh!
21:59Well, I found myself in a shooting competition.
22:02Let's go.
22:02You can record that.
22:05And he's really good.
22:06Let's see.
22:07Okay.
22:07You can record.
22:13Beautiful!
22:15That's up.
22:16Well, I'm getting closer at least.
22:22Oh!
22:23Good thought.
22:24Okay.
22:24Okay.
22:25I'm one basket down and this is my final shot.
22:29Hoop dreams, Clive.
22:31Hoop dreams.
22:38Oh!
22:40Oh!
22:43Go!
22:47Go!
22:48Go!
22:48Let's go!
22:49Let's go!
22:49I'm going to go!
22:51High five!
22:52High five, high five, high five!
22:53Oh!
22:53Well done, man.
22:55Thanks, everyone. Thank you.
23:08While Abe Okuta is a big hub of Yoruba culture,
23:12Yoruba people are based mostly across the southwest of the country,
23:16so it's not the only place to experience it.
23:18The final stop on the Nigerian leg of my adventure
23:22is taking me back to Lagos, where one member of the Yoruba
23:25is leading a creative revolution.
23:31Kudos Onikeku is creative director of Q Dance,
23:35a contemporary dance company with a difference.
23:46The troupe are deep into rehearsals for a brand-new show
23:50that's opening in just a few weeks' time.
23:52Sounds like a live band!
23:54Wonderful!
24:20How are you, bud?
24:21Oh, good, man. Good.
24:23How are you, bud?
24:24Oh, good, man. Good.
24:36After a quick change into my sweats, I'm ready to join them.
24:41Hey!
24:42That was amazing.
24:43That was absolutely brilliant.
24:45The dance that you just did there is looking at the whole question of climate crisis right but from the
24:51indigenous perspective, okay
24:53We have always been in connection and in sync with the element of water
24:57fire wind and earth so if you see the way we're moving and we're still more or less incarnate in
25:04those
25:04Natural forces. So what do you think of what he's trying to do? Yeah, I think it's quite interesting because
25:10There's this groove the silent groove. Yeah, it was silent groove. Yeah, like in Lagos. Yeah
25:19It's inside right like it's innate yours. Yeah. Yes. So when you when you
25:26It's playing inside of you, right? It's an internal sort of dynamo. That's driving everything and
25:36Do you have to be?
25:38African in order to do it. Could you be
25:43Of course, right there are many cities in this world where there is nice rhythm and I feel like there's
25:48a connection between the body and the city
25:50Well, what about Bolton? I don't know
25:58And having this kind of dance center in the middle of Lagos that must be amazing
26:03This is more than amazing
26:05Because this is a kind of dance that once you're into it if only your sleep you're dancing even in
26:11your sleep
26:12You'll be dancing. Are you gonna see that today? Oh, no, no, no, no, no, no. In my sleep, it'll
26:17be a nightmare dance
26:21I
26:22Always like a challenge, so I'm going to give it a go
26:24Five six seven
26:27One two three four
26:30Yeah, you're kicking a football just like Man City man like I'm kicking a football one two three four
26:38Four
26:38So the count is actually on the draw
26:40One two three four
26:42Exactly, that's it
26:43Right, okay
26:44One two three four
26:47That's it
26:47Okay
26:48From here, just this
26:50Just that one
26:51One, two, go
26:52One, two, side
26:55Okay
26:56So stretch out, pull to yourself, side
27:00But can I put the moves together with a live soundtrack?
27:03Five, six, seven, go
27:06One
27:06Two, three, four
27:08One, two, three, four
27:10One, two, one
27:10Yeah
27:10Oh!
27:16Well done guys, well done, thank you
27:18Thank you
27:19Thank you
27:20Thank you
27:20That's brilliant, thank you
27:21You guys are amazing, you're all amazing
27:36I'll tell you what
27:37I've been so lucky to have taken a road less traveled by visitors to Nigeria on this leg of my
27:44African adventure
27:45And it's been amazing, I've partied with celebrities, shot hoops with rising stars of basketball
27:51I've even turned my hand to the ancient art of tie-dying fabric for which this land is rightly lauded
27:58You know, beyond the hustle and bustle of Lagos, this country has so much more to offer
28:03If you know where to look
28:10If you enjoyed that, you can press the red button now to see all episodes of My African Adventures
28:16Only on BBC iPlayer
28:29To be continued...
28:32To be continued...
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