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Hafiz Mustafa has been perfecting Turkish delight since 1864. Now with 24 locations, including in London and Dubai, the company is preparing for even greater expansion, with potential branches in the US. But instead of franchising or mass-producing its sweets, Hafiz Mustafa insists on making everything fresh in-house to maintain authenticity. We visited Istanbul to see how this 162-year-old confectioner is protecting tradition while competing in the modern global dessert market.
Transcript
00:00This kitchen in Istanbul serves one of the oldest dessert shops in the world.
00:07And recipes for Turkish delight have been handed down for 162 years.
00:13At Hafiz Mustafa, these treats are made fresh every day.
00:18Because they are so delicate, even a slight shift in temperature can alter their texture.
00:23I'm going to break.
00:31For decades, Hafiz Mustafa sold sweets only in Turkey.
00:37But today, it is one of the largest producers of handmade Turkish delights in the world,
00:43with 24 branches, including in London and Dubai.
00:51So what does it take to make and keep this traditional dessert fresh on a massive scale?
00:58And how is this famous house of sweets turning legacy into a launch pad?
01:06Masterchef Hussain Baral starts each morning at 7 a.m.
01:20Workers begin by mixing cornstarch, sugar and water.
01:25Once it reaches this consistency, they slowly add in a natural foaming agent to plump up the candy's volume.
01:35They beat this mixture at intervals, keeping it frothy while it boils for nearly two hours.
01:55This variety is called Afyon Turkish Delight, after the region it originates from.
02:02Then workers start preparing three other popular flavors.
02:07This one is pomegranate pistachio.
02:11They mix a concentrate of the local fruit made in-house along with nuts.
02:17For the next flavor, workers pour in about 40 kilograms of hazelnuts and an orange extract that makes the kitchen
02:25smell like citrus.
02:28The last kind is loaded with coconut, kiwi and double-roasted pistachios, giving it a rich green color.
02:42Turkey is famous for its high quality nuts.
02:45But with the country's inflation rate above 30%, sourcing these ingredients can be a challenge.
02:52We always have a increase in prices, so we can do a lot of money, but we always try to
02:58protect ourselves.
02:59We always try to take the best ingredients and the best ingredients.
03:03Blenders attached to the kettle keep the batter flowing.
03:07But workers also use traditional tools like this paddle to stir the pots every few minutes, so that it doesn't
03:15stick to the bottom.
03:17Soon after they add the fruits and nuts, they turn off the heat.
03:23And the mixture is carefully transferred onto wooden trays layered with cornstarch.
03:31It's weighed and left to cool, usually for about half an hour.
03:37Next, workers coat the top with cornstarch before flipping it over and rolling it out.
03:43They have to be careful during this step.
03:52These long hand rolls are what Hussain calls fiddle.
04:14Workers set the logs aside for 12 to 24 hours at room temperature.
04:20Finally, the dessert is carefully cut by hand.
04:25Hussain himself learned this craft from a master chef when he was just 11.
04:42Now, he's considered an usta or a master as well.
04:54That's why Hussain carefully supervises every part of the process.
05:18Some of these trays are sent to stores where the dessert is freshly cut for customers, but much of it
05:25is divided into cubes by machines.
05:34The company could rely entirely on machines if it wanted to, but those that Hafiz Mustafa believe, that would compromise
05:42the quality of the dessert.
05:50In these containers, it can last up to three months if properly stored, but if it's left in the fridge,
05:58it could harden, and at warm temperatures, it could become sticky.
06:10The real test comes when the box is opened at home.
06:23This is my 12th Turkish design.
06:29For Hussain, the greatest satisfaction comes from observing the customers.
06:44Here in Turkey, the dessert originated in the palace kitchens of the Ottoman Empire in the late 1700s.
06:51Back then, it was made with ingredients like honey and flour instead of sugar and cornstarch.
06:58And it was infused with rose water, nuts, cinnamon, and citrus, ingredients that symbolized prestige and hospitality.
07:07Slowly, the royal treat made its way to the masses.
07:11Lokum, as it's known in Turkey, emerged as a popular dessert in the early 1800s.
07:17The name is derived from the Arabic word lokma, which means morsel or mouthful.
07:24In 1864, a young confectioner began making these sweets in the basement of his shop in Istanbul, using just his
07:32hands and a dibek stone.
07:35The store came to be known as Hafiz Mustafa, named after the founder.
07:41But ownership has passed from one family to another.
07:45This is a 160-year-old company.
07:47It's not been closed.
07:48Of course, there were many kinds of events in our country.
07:51It's not closed.
07:53It's not closed.
07:54Aaron Ungerlar's family bought out the business in 2007.
07:59At the time, Hafiz Mustafa had just one store with six employees.
08:13That means saying no, even when demand says yes.
08:18When Hafiz Mustafa opened a store in Dubai in 2019, its first outside Turkey, the production facility was ready.
08:27But the flavor wasn't quite right.
08:34It took 25 days to replicate the authentic Turkish taste.
08:39If a person would want to go into Istanbul, we would want to go to Istanbul.
08:42We would want to go to the eyes, the mouth, the mouth, the mouth, the music, the music, the taste.
08:49Freezing and shipping the desserts to its stores abroad would be easier.
08:53But that would diminish their taste, even if only slightly.
08:58So every Hafiz Mustafa has its own production facility.
09:02Even in London, where it launched its store in 2024.
09:12Over the years, the company has won many food awards.
09:30But it's not resting on its laurels.
09:33Research and development have become central to balancing classic recipes with modern tastes.
09:52Now the company is planning to scale up its production capacity too.
10:05This kind of expansion is crucial to staying at the top of Turkey's nearly $2.5 billion dessert market.
10:12Here, sweets play a vital role at cultural celebrations.
10:17Often gifted at births, at weddings, and on Eid.
10:21But traditional desserts have faced competition from trends like Dubai chocolate and Basque cheesecake.
10:28Hafiz Mustafa has also started offering those options with its own twist.
10:33While these fads come and go, the company says Turkish delight has remained a favorite.
10:40Today it produces 36 varieties of Turkish delight, 16 types of cake, and 27 other desserts.
10:48And it has an entire staff dedicated to making baklava.
10:54Here in this kitchen, they start making baklava at 6 in the morning.
10:58And as you can see, there are nearly 30 different varieties.
11:02Guess what I'm having for breakfast this morning?
11:04More baklava, so let's go for it.
11:10Mmm.
11:12Workers start by rolling the dough by hand until it's so thin that it's nearly transparent.
11:18There are different types of cakes.
11:21We have different types of cakes.
11:24We have different types of cakes.
11:26Some types of baklava are layered flat, while others are twisted or rolled into a spiral.
11:33They're filled with different kinds of nuts.
11:35We have different types of cakes.
11:41Once out of the oven, the trays are left to sit for at least two hours,
11:46and are later topped with a syrup that's heavy on ghee.
11:51Then they're sent to the store.
11:53Come in, please.
11:55Hafiz Mustafa attracts nearly 7 million customers a year across its branches.
12:01In Istanbul, 40% of them are locals, and 60% are tourists.
12:07When we come to the house, we eat.
12:10My favorite place is here, because they really give us value.
12:17The tin containers featuring the founder's image even serve as a memento for some customers.
12:23Despite the brand's success, it has no plans to franchise.
12:38But even as this 162-year-old company draws inspiration from its past, its sights are set on the future.
12:46Dubai, Γ–len, Londra, Paris, New York, Tokyo,
12:52we are here.
12:54We want to be here.
12:55We want to be here.
12:57We want to be here.
12:59We want to be here.
13:00We want to be here.
13:01We want to show us.
13:15To keep its traditional recipes alive, Hafiz Mustafa plans on training the next generation.
13:27So the company is opening the first vocational high school for baklava making in Turkey.
13:56Carrying on that legacy is also important to Hussain, who hopes to pass this craft
14:01on to future generations.
14:04Today, when I look at my boss, my boss says that my biggest work is to show me what you
14:10have done.
14:13For me, this is my heaven. This is my world. I am happy here.
14:19If you give a bus, I will not be so happy.
14:33I will not be so happy.
14:35If you give my bus, I will not be so happy.
14:35You
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