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00:00I'm Jane McDonald.
00:04Let's go exploring!
00:06I'm on an extraordinary trans-global trip of a lifetime.
00:10Look at those!
00:12From pole to pole.
00:14A lot of people often stop me and say,
00:16what's the best place you've been to?
00:18You can actually feel it doing you good.
00:20I always say,
00:22every place has got its own magic.
00:24Starting as far south as I could possibly go,
00:28in Vancouver, Antarctica.
00:30I've encountered awe-inspiring wildlife
00:32in the South Georgia Islands.
00:34Whoa! Look at this!
00:36Made new friends in the Falklands.
00:38That is such a different taste.
00:40Can I have a hug off all of you?
00:42Taken a leap of faith in Uruguay.
00:46Wait!
00:48It is the 1600s!
00:50Oh my God, I'm in Outlander!
00:52Scaled new heights in Brazil.
00:54Oh my God, you actually feel like you're flying.
00:56And lived La Dolce Vita in the Med.
00:58Oh, this is gorgeous!
01:00Look at this place!
01:02Wow!
01:04That's some journey!
01:06This is the final leg of my epic adventure.
01:10There's nothing past it on this globe.
01:12So, that's it.
01:14I'm at the top of the world.
01:16Just look at that.
01:18I've travelled a whopping 15,000 miles on my pole-to-pole journey.
01:30And there's one last destination to tick off my bucket list.
01:34I've flown to Longyearbyen, the capital of Svalbard, deep in the Arctic Circle.
01:44This is the most northern town in the whole world.
01:48And as you look around, it's got like a cowboy feel.
01:52It feels completely different to a normal high street.
01:56Which is quite nice really, because when you see high streets now all over the world,
02:00they all look the same.
02:02And it's quite refreshing to see.
02:05But it has got this, like, rural feel about it.
02:09It's quite a busy little place.
02:13But so different from what we're used to.
02:18Previously a coal mining community, this last frontier now attracts scientists and tourists.
02:24And it's the gateway for Arctic adventurers like me.
02:29It's a strange place, this, because it's either sunny all the time, 24 hours.
02:35And then this time of year, it starts to change into the darkness.
02:42So there's all sorts of magic happening at this time of year.
02:48I've come to the end of the earth to find out just who lives in a place like this.
02:55I've travelled all the way from Italy to meet my discovery yacht, Scenic Eclipse, in Svalbard,
03:01to circumnavigate this Norwegian territory between the mainland and the North Pole.
03:07My route includes Bjarnfjorden in the north, the nature reserve of Terelneset,
03:13the Brasvelbrien Glacier, and the Alcanet mountain.
03:17I found my ship, and I'm going to get on there because it's going to take me even more north than I am right now.
03:27But I'm just going to have one last bit of civilisation.
03:31So it's one for the road with some Longyearbyan locals.
03:38Joining me in the bar are Robert, Siv and Marina at the world's northernmost brewery.
03:43I thought it was the start of a joke. There was this brewer, a vicar, and a jeweller.
03:49But they were all people who had come to Svalbard and stayed there because they fell in love with the place.
03:58Oh, look at this!
04:01Established in 2015, this brewery is a triumph in Arctic circles, and I'm dying to find out why.
04:09So, you're the brewer.
04:12Well, I'm a chief of the brew hosts, but I'm not the brewer.
04:16They're down there, though, aren't they?
04:18So tell me about it, because there's something about the alcohol here.
04:20Yeah, well, in 1928, it said that you have no allowed to make any alcohol on the island.
04:29No alcohol at all to be made here?
04:31No alcohol at all to be made here.
04:32Right.
04:33Apparently the miners, hello, they had a problem with alcohol.
04:39So alcohol was rationed, and there was no alcohol that could be made in this town.
04:44So I was talking with the department, if they could change the law, so we can make beer up in Svalbard.
04:53And it took five and a half years, and then they said yes.
04:57Wow! So you've changed the law here?
05:00Well, yes, I do.
05:02Local hero.
05:04So you must be, you know, well-loved. And well done!
05:08I mean, that deserves a drink. Can we drink?
05:10Yeah, of course.
05:11Which one do we start with?
05:12We have our Pilsner on the right hand.
05:14The Pilsner?
05:15Yeah.
05:16Cheers to Robert, the man who changed the North.
05:22Is that quite strong? She says go for another drink.
05:264.7.
05:274.7?
05:28Yeah.
05:29The weakest.
05:30That's the weakest?
05:31Yeah.
05:32So it gets stronger, stronger, stronger?
05:33Stronger, stronger, stronger, yes.
05:35Put that one down then.
05:37And tell me, what is the passion here? Why do you love it so much?
05:41It's some kind of falling in love with the people and the land and nature.
05:47You know, here you actually are given the possibility to explore something.
05:51It's still a wilderness, and then I believe that people also then start exploring something within themselves.
05:58Which is lovely.
05:59And also a little bit accept for different people.
06:02There's many nationalities.
06:04Oh, it's very diverse here.
06:05And it's very international.
06:07I think it's 40, 50 different nationalities here.
06:10That's amazing.
06:11And this is a place where people really live together.
06:16Like, we are living a super nice life together.
06:20If you could write it down and tell everybody else what the secret is.
06:25Well, I think actually it's the fact that we live this far away from the places we came from.
06:30Maybe.
06:31From our families, our closest friend.
06:33It creates this understanding, and you realize how interdependent you are.
06:39Nature tells you, you are really, really vulnerable.
06:42You are the weak one.
06:45But at the same time, you can actually survive.
06:48Wow.
06:49I think we should drink to northerners.
06:52Cheers to all of you.
06:54And thank you.
06:56Cheers to you.
06:57Bon voyage.
06:58Bon voyage.
06:59I love it.
07:03With a belly full of Svalbard beer, I'm off.
07:06The street signs are a little bit different to what we have at home.
07:10So, to make sure I don't get lost, I'm meeting Kaiser, who works as a guide on this Arctic tundra.
07:17Hi, how are you doing? I'm Jane.
07:19I'm Kaiser.
07:20Nice to meet you.
07:21Nice to meet you.
07:22Do you understand what this says?
07:24Yeah, it means that past this side, everyone should carry something to scare the polar bear off if it approaches.
07:34Will this hat work?
07:35No, most likely not.
07:37No.
07:38So, it has to be something like a flare gun or rifle that makes a loud bang.
07:43And in case the bear attacks, you can protect your life and kill the bear if it's needed.
07:50So, just let me get this right, you carry a gun?
07:54Yes.
07:55Everyone who moves here, they get a firearm permit.
07:58Have you ever had to use it?
08:00Never against the polar bear.
08:01Uh-huh.
08:02And the polar bear is totally protected species, so we have to avoid putting us in a situation where we have to kill a bear.
08:09Uh-huh.
08:11When you first see a sign that says, warning, polar bears, you start to think, hang on a minute.
08:21Do I really want to go up there? Am I going to get eaten by a polar bear?
08:25With the constant threat of an encounter with one of the 3,000 bears in Svalbard,
08:30I want to find out what drew Kaiser to this remote outpost in the first place.
08:37I was working as a dog sledding guide in Sweden and Norway.
08:41Ah.
08:42And got the summer job, and somehow I ended up staying longer and longer.
08:46I think she is.
08:49So, can you see yourself staying here?
08:52I will stay as long as I feel it's fun for me.
08:55Fun. You see, this is it. Joy. You've got to chase your joy.
08:58Yes.
08:59Without much driving, I can be in the mountains with a few minutes.
09:03Mm-hmm.
09:04Snow kiting, paragliding, kitesurfing, skiing.
09:07Yeah.
09:08And it's also nice to see the contrast between the really busy summer,
09:12and then when we can calm down and be cosy and light some candles and read books.
09:17Well, oof. Sounds paradise, actually.
09:20Or knitting sweaters. It's a lot of knitting in the town.
09:23Knitting sweaters. I like that. Yeah.
09:26I don't think I could live on Svalbard,
09:29but I do believe I could have a much quieter life with not as much stuff.
09:35And I'm going through things like my mother's possessions and Ed's possessions,
09:41thinking, wow, all this stuff, and what for?
09:46So it's taught me, speaking to Kaiser, that the simple things in life are much more fulfilling.
09:55You've got it right, you know, Kaiser. You really have got it right.
09:59I think you're brilliant.
10:01Get back.
10:03Coming up, on my first Arctic mission, I witness a geological phenomenon.
10:11That's the ice.
10:12Oh, my God!
10:15And I catch a rare sighting of the ultimate Arctic predator.
10:20Oh, my God, there's a polar bear.
10:33Leaving civilisation behind, I've come to the beautiful Bjornfjorden,
10:38at the top of the world, for the last leg of my journey.
10:42On board my polar-class yacht, I'm surrounded by home comforts,
10:46but they're in stark contrast to the remote icy wilderness of the Arctic.
11:03Wow.
11:05You know, throughout this whole trip,
11:07every time I've seen a view, I've thought,
11:10nothing can top what I've just seen.
11:12And then you wake up, and you see that.
11:18The mist gently coming off the sea,
11:22the snow all over the hills over there,
11:26the rugged outline of everything,
11:30the colour, all these blues and greys and browns.
11:35It's just a palette like I've never seen before.
11:39Just look at that.
11:42It's not hard to see why Svalbard's largest island made my bucket list.
11:53Dramatic glacial landscapes and only 800 miles from the North Pole.
12:01And the best way to get used to these remote Arctic conditions
12:04is to get out there.
12:06OK, got you. Thank you.
12:08And give kayaking another go.
12:11We meet again.
12:12Hey, Jane, how are you doing?
12:13I'm good, how are you?
12:14I'm doing well.
12:16The first time I went kayaking with Simon was in Antarctica.
12:19And this is not for the faint-hearted.
12:22That's all I'm saying.
12:24Oh, my God.
12:26And I remember thinking, never again am I doing that.
12:31Ah, there you go.
12:32A bit more clutch.
12:32So when they said to me this time, do you fancy going kayaking in the Arctic?
12:38I thought, no, face your fear.
12:40Face your fear and go out and do it again.
12:42I know, Simon, you would never put me in danger.
12:46No.
12:47You're in good hands.
12:51That's what he said last time.
12:53That's all I'm saying.
12:55Being adventurous means coming out of your comfort zone.
12:59And I think everybody should try and just come out of the comfort zone a little bit
13:04because it gets the adrenaline going and it's all, gosh, I'm alive.
13:09There's that.
13:09All right, Jane, you ready for this?
13:12No.
13:14Where do you want me in this bit?
13:16You'll swing your feet over.
13:17All right.
13:20Oh!
13:21Ah!
13:24I'm in.
13:25There you go.
13:25You made it.
13:30Gosh, just look at this.
13:31It's like a milk pond, right?
13:33Seeing the first glass here was like Game of Thrones, you know, the wall.
13:43It looks like AI, doesn't it?
13:45Yeah.
13:46Or polystyrene.
13:47It doesn't look real.
13:49Your eye just doesn't believe what it's taking in.
13:52So I must admit, Simon, oh, my God.
14:02That's the ice.
14:05Oh, my gosh.
14:06To my relief, that sound of ice breaking off the glacier is a natural process called calving.
14:17So once you hear that boom...
14:19Yeah.
14:20..the ice has already fallen.
14:21Yeah.
14:22Oh, wow.
14:25The sound of the ice breaking away is like thunder.
14:30And you're looking up in the sky, and it's not in the sky, it's in the ice.
14:36To actually experience that and then hear this amazing vroom after it was quite something.
14:47Ooh.
14:49Some big chunks of ice here.
14:52Let me know if I headed towards the big one.
14:54Yeah.
14:54I think we've already crossed that bridge.
14:57Nah.
14:57We're doing all right.
15:00And this freezes over, does it?
15:02Yeah.
15:03Winter drops a lot like a curtain.
15:05Yeah, it's going to freeze.
15:05And everything turns white.
15:07All the snow everywhere.
15:08Right.
15:09Generally, glaciers are snow.
15:12Yeah.
15:13And they build one snowflake at a time.
15:15Uh-huh.
15:15And so the ice gets replenished by the snow that falls up above.
15:19Yeah.
15:20If that doesn't happen, then you have a receding glacier.
15:23Mm.
15:26The difference from Antarctica and the Arctic is the birds.
15:30And it's wonderful because you hear this cacophony of just bird song all the time.
15:38And it's just, it makes you feel elated.
15:43Because you're in the sea, you're looking at the ice, and then there's these birds having a party all around you.
15:49There's quite a few birds here.
15:53Sure.
15:54Yeah.
15:54There's an Arctic tern colony.
15:56Mm-hmm.
15:57Their claim to fame is travel.
15:58So they go from here all the way to the other side of the planet.
16:02Wow.
16:04That's some journey.
16:05It really is.
16:06Gosh.
16:07And some of those birds will see a million miles in their lifetime.
16:09Oh, my God.
16:11Yeah.
16:11Really exceptional.
16:13So they've done the pole to pole as a bird as well.
16:16Yeah.
16:17They're following us.
16:18They are.
16:19I think I'd rather have my trip.
16:30It's so good for your brain and your mental health, this.
16:36Yeah.
16:37It's the only way to travel.
16:38With a big, strong man behind you.
16:42Or woman.
16:44But just someone who can take over when you're a little bit tired.
16:49That's a treat.
16:57Back on board my yacht, I may as well take advantage of this fabulous Arctic light before my next stop.
17:04Now, how to take the perfect selfie?
17:08If there's anything I've learned along the years of making telly, it's don't have something hanging out your head.
17:16Which is a bit like this selfie I'm going to do now.
17:20Never take a selfie from here either, because you've got your chins and all your bags and your face that drops.
17:25It's not attractive.
17:26Stop it.
17:28Always have the camera up slightly so that you're not getting this bit.
17:35Also, don't do it full on, because you always look a bit strange.
17:38I don't know why that is.
17:40Maybe it's just my face.
17:42But always sort of look to the side a little bit when you're taking a selfie.
17:46Also, if you've had a hard night, put these on, because these sunglasses cover a multitude of sins.
17:56You feel like Jackie O.
17:57Watch where the wind is blowing.
18:01As you can see, the wind is now blowing my hair back.
18:07So, it's taking it off my face.
18:10Now, if I turn round and do a selfie from there, look at the state of that.
18:17I look like I've got a beard, which is not a good look.
18:20It's not a good look.
18:22So, go back to that.
18:24A side-on view is always better.
18:28So, yeah.
18:29So, that's it, really.
18:30Always have the sun behind you.
18:32And watch for your mates in the background, because the little terrors, and they will come and do a little stuff behind you.
18:38That is not nice.
18:39Just saying.
18:40A new day, and after a big breakfast with fellow guests, I'm ready for another day of adventuring.
18:54I've come to Disco Bookture Bay, on the west side of Svalbard's third largest island, Ejoia.
19:04It's a haven for wildlife.
19:06So, inspired by Kaiser, I'm going on a bear hunt, from the safety of the bridge.
19:12Peter goes to starboard there.
19:13Hopefully, Captain Rado has good news.
19:16Blimey, it's a party up here, isn't it?
19:18You know that we have an open bridge policy, so guests love to use it.
19:22So, if the door's open, you're allowed in?
19:24More than welcome.
19:25Come, ask a question, look outside, take binoculars.
19:28I love that.
19:30So, what's on the agenda today?
19:32Have we seen any polar bears yet?
19:33We are hoping to get some polar bears to the inside, yeah.
19:36Right.
19:37Are they a bit temperamental?
19:39Not really.
19:39They're very slow and lazy.
19:41This is how we see them, but we also have a lot of precaution for them.
19:45Are you?
19:46I'm on the bear safety team.
19:48My name is Will.
19:48Sorry, the bear safety team?
19:50Bear safety team, yes.
19:51Hello.
19:51Nice to meet you.
19:52Yeah, you as well.
19:53So, you're on lookout, are you, all the time?
19:55Oh, pretty much all the time.
19:57We just make sure that we're spotting a bear before it spots us, ideally.
20:01Okay.
20:02And how far are we away from them?
20:05We won't know.
20:06But we have to keep a safe distance always, which is minimum 300 meters, if I'm not wrong.
20:11Is that because they're really fast runners and we're not?
20:15Partly.
20:15They don't really love to run if they don't have to, but they can cover a lot of ground quickly if they're motivated.
20:20Have you ever raced a polar bear?
20:23Not really raced one, but, you know, not one, two, three, go.
20:27I mean, you know, have you ever?
20:28No.
20:29Fortunately, I've never been in this situation.
20:31Really, it's these binoculars are our biggest piece of safety equipment, right?
20:35So, we're out there being vigilant, keeping an eye, and if we see anything that looks suspicious, we're backing off and getting back to the ship where it's safe.
20:43Because we're in their front garden, really, aren't we?
20:45Exactly.
20:46So, we have to be respectful of their space.
20:47Yes.
20:48I mean, they're the apex predator up here.
20:50They're the king of the north for a reason, so you have to really respect that.
20:55I get that.
20:56I get that.
20:57Well, thank you so much, both.
21:01Very welcome.
21:01Thank you for having a chat with us.
21:03I'll go get me binoculars and a cup of tea.
21:06Or you can use one from the bridge.
21:07We have some.
21:08Oh, fantastic.
21:09Here you go.
21:10Here you go, if you wish.
21:11Have a look around.
21:12Thank you, thank you, Radlon.
21:13I'm captain.
21:14Sorry, captain.
21:15No, no, it's all good, Jane.
21:18Right, I'm going to have a go with these.
21:22It is quite a special expedition being on this ship because you've got trained people who are looking out for polar bears.
21:31Oh, I've got a bird.
21:32I've got a bird.
21:33Who know how to use guns, who are proper guides, who know everything about the species.
21:39And you feel like you're in safe hands the whole time.
21:46I've got three birds.
21:48Good.
21:49Talk amongst yourselves.
21:50We could be here for some time.
21:52Is that a polar bear?
21:56I guess it's a rock.
21:57It's a rock.
22:02Coming up.
22:03Oh, my God.
22:04I'm overwhelmed to witness a once-in-a-lifetime Arctic wonder.
22:09Three walters within 20 feet.
22:12I'm welling up.
22:21I'm on the final leg of my journey, and I've sailed to Freeman Sundet.
22:26And I'm determined not to leave my post until I've spotted a polar bear.
22:31I have to admit, I have seen a polar bear before, but it was in the Yorkshire Wildlife Park in Doncaster.
22:38A little thing on the beach.
22:40Yeah.
22:40And it just didn't have the same effect as seeing it in its own habitat through a telescope.
22:48Some reindeer out there, too.
22:50The bear safety team have been meticulously scanning for activity since 5.30 this morning.
22:59And just as I'm about to hang up my binoculars...
23:02This is Helena, your discovery leader from the bridge.
23:07We have spotted our first polar bear of the voyage.
23:11So join us on the outer decks to view this spectacular king of the Arctic.
23:15Thank God I've got to put a little bit of the polar bear.
23:19Just see the nails.
23:21Just me the nails.
23:22We've got to keep our boxes down.
23:25There he is.
23:26The excitement that we all had out on deck, seeing a polar bear in its own environment,
23:42just sat sunbathing, was electric.
23:47Oh, my God.
23:49There's a polar bear.
23:51Oh, my God.
23:52Hi.
23:56That is incredible.
24:01And the fact that it was far enough away that it couldn't get to me and eat me.
24:05That did help, too.
24:08But, yeah, beautiful animal.
24:10Beautiful animal.
24:12That is the most amazing thing.
24:15When you just see one polar bear sunbathing, having a little rest.
24:19His paws are out like that.
24:22But we've all got to keep our voices down.
24:24Because their senses could pick up everything that we're doing.
24:30I wonder if he knows how excited we all are.
24:33Probably smell it.
24:34Probably right.
24:35I can smell the excitement.
24:40What could possibly top seeing the king of the north with me own eyes?
24:45Good morning.
24:51Here we go.
24:54I'm back out braving the elements today with Discovery Guide Tash.
24:58Just here.
24:59Thanks, Tash.
25:00Morning.
25:01Yes, we're here to see a massive iceberg.
25:04A glacier, even.
25:07Everybody who's come back has just been raving about it.
25:10It's huge, is this thing.
25:13Definitely hashtag bliss.
25:15I've sailed to the northeast of Svalbard to the famous Braswellbrien Glacier, which at 180 kilometers is the longest in the northern hemisphere.
25:27It looks like Dover from here.
25:30The cliffs of Dover.
25:31The white cliffs of Dover.
25:32And this glacier front is also pretty famous for the waterfalls that will run off the ice edge in the summertime.
25:43Yeah.
25:44And so we might still see some trickles now in the autumn, but we'll see what we can find out there.
25:55It's like a different planet when you get here.
25:58It's very special, and how things are able to adapt to survive and the harsh conditions is pretty incredible.
26:05You wouldn't think anything would survive here, would you?
26:08You might not.
26:09I mean, we hardly survive an hour out.
26:11It's pretty cold, but...
26:12I can't believe how many layers I've got.
26:15Oh, wow.
26:17This is just incredible.
26:20Pretty amazing.
26:22Braswellbrien is also a key site for scientists to monitor signs of climate change.
26:28The center of this ice cap that we're looking at is pretty impressive for this region, and it's the third largest one in the European area.
26:38I know, it just goes on forever.
26:40I think that's what is so mind-blowing, is that it's forever.
26:46It's incredible.
26:53I know it's only a bit of water coming off some ice, but it looks so beautiful.
26:59It is beautiful for me as well.
27:01I always like to really take in the fact that we really are looking at ancient ice.
27:12When you come on this trip, and you're in the sea, either in a kayak or a zodiac, and all the engines are switched off,
27:20you hear this silence.
27:25And it does make you exhale.
27:37You just go...
27:39And you can feel the peace around you.
27:43And even thinking back to it, I'm exhaling.
27:49It's like a meditation.
27:50You're just in this calming, amazing experience that I'll probably never forget.
28:00And that's quite special.
28:02After one of the most mesmerising views of my life, it's back to my Discovery yacht to defrost with a warming whisky.
28:32A new day, and after travelling even further around Svaldberg, there's a whole new view.
28:41What we're looking for here?
28:43Have you seen anything yet?
28:46Birds.
28:47Just birds?
28:48Birds.
28:48Birds everywhere.
28:49Zodiacs.
28:51Right.
28:52Zodiacs and birds.
28:55It is quite magnificent out here, though, isn't it?
28:57Fellow travellers Nancy, Francis and Gary are clearly as much in awe as I am.
29:04So what made you pick the Arctic?
29:07World life.
29:08World life.
29:09Is this what you're into?
29:10Yeah.
29:10Yeah.
29:11It's what we like.
29:12I think it's about the only place that I hadn't been to.
29:14Really?
29:15I've been travelling for about 40 years.
29:17Oh, my goodness.
29:18And I'm thinking, too old to go there.
29:20And then somebody said to me, no, you're not, just go.
29:23Yeah.
29:23Here I am.
29:24Who's told you to...
29:25Did you think you were too old to do this, then?
29:27No, other people did.
29:29Did they?
29:29No, you look great.
29:31I'm not going to ask you your age, but how much do you weigh?
29:34I don't think it matters.
29:37Even if you come here and watch it all from the ship, it doesn't matter, does it?
29:40No, it doesn't matter.
29:40No.
29:40No.
29:42So have you got family at home?
29:44Have you got...
29:44They all think you're discoverers and adventurers?
29:47They think we made some of them.
29:49Yeah, they think some of the places we go.
29:51Yeah.
29:51They don't understand why we want to go to cold places.
29:54Yeah.
29:54They think we should sit on the beach all day.
29:56Yeah.
29:57And drink pina colada.
29:58Yeah, grow old on the beach.
29:59Yeah.
30:00Well, you can do that as well, though, can't you?
30:02Of course you can.
30:02Yeah.
30:03Have you got any good photos, then?
30:05Have you got any good photos?
30:06Oh, you're a great one at the field.
30:08Have you?
30:08Oh, let's have a look.
30:10See, we're going to have to compare.
30:11It's like getting us kids out, isn't it?
30:14Have a look at this way.
30:15Oh, my God.
30:17That's incredible, isn't it?
30:19Fantastic.
30:21Mine's a bit pathetic now.
30:23I zoomed in.
30:25I'm proud of this.
30:26Very proud.
30:27Yeah.
30:28See, I've got you all chatting now.
30:30We should be looking at birds, shouldn't we?
30:32Shall we go back to what we're supposed to be doing?
30:34There's always something to see and someone to have a laugh with on the ship.
30:49But when it comes to the wildlife, nothing beats getting up close.
31:00And we're off.
31:02Come on.
31:04So far on my journey, I've seen penguins, elephants, seals, and polar bears.
31:11And now for a pole-to-pole full house, walruses with my guide.
31:17So, Julia, we've got to keep our spices down.
31:20We do, yes.
31:21So we're at Terrell Nusset, up here in Svalbard.
31:25Right.
31:25And it's a popular haul-out for walrus, the Atlantic walrus.
31:29Fine.
31:30When we went out on the walrus trip, we were told they would, one, be very, very smelly.
31:38And, two, that we wouldn't be able to get up close to them because they are quite far away.
31:44There's quite a few down there.
31:45Just a few, yeah.
31:47I don't know how many exactly.
31:48And we were all happy with that.
31:50You don't want to get too close to a walrus.
31:52Is it only here that walrus live?
31:55Well, the Atlantic walrus is found in a number of places.
31:59Yeah.
31:59There are a few haul-out sites that are popular with the walrus.
32:02They're very sociable, so they like to haul out in groups.
32:05What's a haul-out?
32:07That's actually a really good question, and it's something that I've not really considered,
32:10but thinking about it, because seals and walruses are really big animals.
32:15So I guess that's really where it's come from, just the way they have to haul themselves out.
32:19I know how that feels.
32:21I can't even get out of a swimming pool without a haul-out.
32:24Lovely.
32:25In this get-up, it's sad enough hauling meself across the beach.
32:34But worth it for the surprise of my life.
32:38Oh, yeah, they're there, look.
32:40Yeah.
32:40About 150 walruses have found a prime lounging spot just in front of me.
33:02Oh, my God.
33:03They're always all huddled together.
33:17Occasionally, one of them will move.
33:19They might annoy each other as they sort of...
33:22Someone's nice and settled, snoozing nicely.
33:26Then someone moves and...
33:27That's so annoying, isn't it?
33:29It is.
33:30So, yeah.
33:30And it probably is for them as well.
33:32Yeah.
33:32So they'll sometimes have a little, a bit of a tussle with each other as they just annoy,
33:37and then they'll settle down.
33:39But you'll find that the males and the females have tusks.
33:43Really?
33:44Yeah.
33:44It's just that the males have much longer tusks than the females.
33:47And then they're wider as well.
33:50Yeah.
33:50That makes sense.
33:51And then they've got about 15 centimetres of blubber.
33:56That's how thick their blubber can get.
33:58Wow.
33:59That is quite a lot.
34:00It is.
34:00Yeah.
34:01So nice and warm.
34:03Nice and warm.
34:04Didn't need to be here.
34:05Because although it looks nice and sunny here, it's flipping cold.
34:08It is, yes.
34:10It is very cold here.
34:11Yeah.
34:12Actually, this one just in water.
34:14Yeah, there's one there.
34:15There's one there as well.
34:15Oh, my God.
34:16You can see the hot breath is there as well.
34:22That's fantastic, isn't it?
34:24Yeah, it's wonderful.
34:27Fancy having this beach all to yourself, though.
34:29Oh, wouldn't it be wonderful?
34:32Yeah.
34:34And just when I think, it couldn't get any better.
34:41Oh, my God.
34:42Oh, my God.
34:42Stay in the water, guys.
35:01That is incredible.
35:02Three walrus, within 20 feet, come to say hello.
35:08I mean, that's magical, isn't it?
35:13That's magical.
35:14Well, I'm well enough.
35:16I'm well enough.
35:18I'm well enough.
35:20I have to pinch myself when things like this happen.
35:24And I write a journal every day.
35:26And that is definitely quite a big paragraph about how I felt when they just put their heads up.
35:33Because they didn't just swim past.
35:35They stopped and put their heads out and said hello.
35:39Oh, sometimes nature just takes you by surprise.
35:48It's magic.
35:49It's magical.
35:51Wow.
35:52I mean, that's pretty special.
35:57You don't get that every day, do you?
36:04That's great.
36:04I'm going to look like Alice Cooper.
36:07Coming up, after my extraordinary adventure from the very bottom to the top of the world,
36:13ready to rock and roll.
36:15This awestruck wakey lass reaches the finish line.
36:19What an adventure.
36:21This is it.
36:35My pole-to-pole journey has been the adventure of a lifetime.
36:40And I've almost reached my final destination, deep in the Arctic Circle.
36:45They say that travel broadens the mind.
36:50Hi.
36:52Going from one end of the earth to the other has definitely opened my eyes in so many ways.
36:59Right.
37:00Are you ready, madam?
37:01I am.
37:04Ready to rock and roll.
37:08I think since losing head, you wake up every morning.
37:12I still get that thud in my stomach every day.
37:15And grief changes you.
37:20I can't lie on that.
37:24And it's changed me beyond recognition.
37:27But now I need something else in my life.
37:33And this is it.
37:34It's travelling and doing all the things now that are a privilege for me.
37:42I've gone as north as I possibly can, weather-wise, ship-wise.
37:51It looks a bit like Iceland.
37:53And I want to end my adventure from the bottom to the top of the world on a high.
38:02So I've chosen the Alcanet Mountain, a truly impressive landmark on Svalbard's largest island.
38:08It was just magnificent to see this mountain veiled and just stood there so proud, as if to say, you've reached it.
38:21So it was like backing me in, saying, you've done it.
38:26Hi.
38:30G'day, welcome.
38:31Would you like a couple of poles?
38:33Well, yeah, pole to pole.
38:34Thank you very much.
38:35Of course.
38:35Yeah.
38:36You've done well.
38:37Oh, gosh, we've got here at last.
38:39Finally.
38:40Yeah.
38:40You've made it.
38:41I know, it's amazing.
38:42Was it a long walk?
38:43No, most of it by ship, thankfully.
38:47But where do I go, Shane?
38:49You head up there, up over that path.
38:52Right.
38:53Thank you very, very much.
38:54I'll just go then, yeah?
38:55OK.
38:56Yep.
38:56Right.
38:57I'm off.
38:59I'm not going to sit here and pretend I'm Michael Palin or David Attenborough, because I'm not.
39:17I'm just a normal traveller doing the pole to pole experience.
39:21And I hope I don't waste it.
39:24I hope I'm articulate enough to convey how special this trip is.
39:32Every moment of my very own odyssey has been extraordinary.
39:37From Antarctica to the South Georgia Islands to Falklands and Brazil.
39:43And then we did Uruguay.
39:46And Montevideo.
39:49And Capri.
39:51It's exhilarating to see the views that you've seen and the things that you've seen
39:58and experience the amazing things that you can do.
40:06And I think once you start travelling, you can't stop.
40:09It's addictive.
40:11That's what it is.
40:13I'm finally here.
40:16Look at this.
40:17We've made it.
40:22We've made it.
40:24Oh, wow.
40:25Wow.
40:25Travel does change you in so many ways.
40:41And I've learned a lot about myself on this journey.
40:44About how I love nature.
40:47How I love the vastness of emptiness.
40:50And how I love peace.
40:57This journey has been full of adventure, discovery, knowledge that I never knew.
41:05Great friends.
41:08Fabulous surroundings.
41:10Sunsets which are breathtaking.
41:12Sunrises which I never usually see, let's be honest.
41:18Amazing adventure.
41:21And all finished off with a cocktail at the end of the night.
41:23I mean, what an amazing experience.
41:28I think we should do it again, don't you?
41:34I think this is a trip that I will never ever forget.
41:38I feel blessed, honoured, privileged to have been able to do this.
41:44So thank you for letting me do this for you all.
41:49I've only done it for you.
41:50You know I have.
41:52What an adventure.
41:58This is it.
41:59The end of our journey.
42:03Well, not quite the end.
42:05There's always time for a song.
42:07You're as cold as ice
42:12Someday you'll pay the price
42:16I know
42:17I've seen it before
42:19It happens all the time
42:21You're closing the door
42:23You leave the world behind
42:25You're digging for gold
42:27You're throwing away
42:29A fortune in feelings
42:31But someday you'll pay
42:33You're as cold as ice
42:38As cold as ice
42:40To me
42:41You're as cold as ice
42:46You're as cold as ice
42:51Cold as ice
42:55I know
42:56Oh, yes I know
43:00You're as cold as ice
43:04You're as cold as ice
43:06I know
43:08You're as cold as ice
43:18I know
43:19I know
43:24I know
43:28I know
43:29I know
43:32I know
43:33I know
43:33I know
43:34I know
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