- 10 hours ago
Designers April Walker and Groovy Lew unite to discuss how indie designers can protect their designs and businesses from large, fast, fashion companies who co-opt the ideas of smaller Black-owned brands and successfully capitalize off of their creativity regularly. The panel will also weigh in on how to take action on the back end for designers who find themselves targeted."
Category
🛠️
LifestyleTranscript
00:00What's up everybody, how y'all doing?
00:06Everybody's awake, everybody's here, we outside, okay, vaxxed.
00:13Weren't those some beautiful collections that we just saw, y'all?
00:16Like absolutely incredible, and I'm so blessed to be here.
00:19If y'all haven't met me, my name is Deshonda Brown,
00:22I'm an associate editor here at Essence and for Essence Girls United.
00:26And I'm super, super excited for this conversation because
00:29the topic that we're about to dive into
00:31is something that the fashion industry knows all too well about.
00:36And unfortunately it's the word that kind of gets a little tossed around,
00:42a little too much, but nobody really knows what it means,
00:44and that's cultural appropriation, you know?
00:47Oftentimes there's intellectual property theft.
00:50Oftentimes we don't get the credit that we deserve.
00:53Like our editor Blake Newby said, we start the trends, right?
00:57So we're here for an incredible discussion with two amazing people
01:02in the fashion and the style world.
01:04So without further ado, I'm going to first introduce April Walker,
01:08who was the founder and creator of Walker Wear.
01:11Hello, hello, hello.
01:14And then we got Veni Entian, who is the head designer of LaVenity.
01:18How are you guys doing?
01:21And I'm excited. How are y'all doing?
01:23And I always like to ask how anybody's mental health is doing before we dive into any conversation.
01:27So how's y'all minds?
01:30If I'm really honest, it's been a really heavy week.
01:36But I'm blessed because I woke up this morning and I'm here with so many beautiful people
01:43and I'm excited for this conversation.
01:45Yeah, and thanks for asking that because even with me and my assistants,
01:50I actually do that with them now.
01:51I'm like, mental check.
01:52And they're like, oh, this is a new thing.
01:54And I'm like, yeah, this is a new age.
01:56Like we need to check on each other.
01:57So thank you for, you know, checking on me.
01:59But I'm good.
02:00Yeah, everything's good.
02:01Good. I'm so glad to hear that.
02:02You.
02:03Me?
02:04How are you good?
02:04I'm good.
02:05I can't complain.
02:06You know, I'm blessed and highly favored.
02:08I'm awake.
02:08I'm alive.
02:09I'm here.
02:10My friends and family are good.
02:12My mental health is in check.
02:13So I can't complain.
02:14I'm all right.
02:16So without further ado, we're going to get into this conversation.
02:19So to start, I want to first talk about the process of taking a design
02:23from a concept to an actual product,
02:25because obviously it's not something that you just hop, skip to.
02:28There's a lot of steps in between.
02:30And oftentimes, you know, we see it being such a glamorized process
02:33that you people think that you just wake up and you have a product.
02:36But it's not like that at all.
02:38So who are some of the key players that you want to have on your team
02:42in those early stages to ensure that your ideas are protected, even from onset,
02:47the freely creative process?
02:49And April, I want to start with you.
02:52If we're talking about protecting our ideas, I would say you want to have a good legal team.
02:59You want to have attorneys that count and know not just attorneys, but the ones that understand
03:04about intellectual properties, understand about trademarks, copyrights.
03:11It's very hard to trademark or to protect all of your designs.
03:16But if you know you're going to be using this design so much, you can protect that.
03:26But having the right attorneys that understand that world is key because you can spend a lot of money
03:33with attorneys that don't know the business and can take you down the wrong road as well.
03:39So I would say attorneys is one.
03:41I'm also a big believer in immersing yourself in as much knowledge as possible.
03:47So, you know, you could go to the USTPO.org and really read up on trademarks, copyrights, all of it.
03:56If you're into, I don't know what you're creating, but patents are different than trademarks.
04:01Trademarks are different than copyrights.
04:03So just having that general knowledge helps you when you sit down with an attorney to see where they're at.
04:11Yeah, I mean, I totally agree.
04:13Like having a good lawyer, even like a mentor or someone who also like has been probably where you want to go.
04:22Someone who knows ropes.
04:25Because I think having that mentorship or having someone who's been there would be able to also show you, you know, the team that you need.
04:36Because the process of making a garment is just so much than the end product.
04:42Like I think April would agree that like taking it from design or just a thought to then creating patterns and then finding the fabric and then cutting it out and then finally putting it, you know, to sample, to production, like all of that is so much work.
05:01So it's like what April said, like we have to find ways to protect it as much as we can and educating ourselves on like the legal part or if not ourselves, like not learning the basics, find the people who could actually give you that information.
05:17And April, yourself, you have over 20 years in the game, like is that iconic or impressive or what?
05:26Like we're sitting next to an actual icon, like she's absolutely amazing.
05:31But your brand, Walker Wear, is unfortunately in the middle of the exact thing that we're talking about.
05:38So do you think that established legacy brands or design pioneers such as yourself are more vulnerable to being targeted?
05:46I don't know if we're more vulnerable because I see it happen to a lot of black and brown creatives, period, if I'm honest.
05:54I will say that I know it happened to Dapper Dan, it happened to myself, and it happened to a lot of other people that might not be legacy brands.
06:07But I think that social media allows this open curtain for people to do drive-bys when it comes to these big corporate fashion houses.
06:17And I think that they do it unapologetically because they think there's no repercussions, then they won't be held accountable.
06:29And they get away with it most of the time.
06:32So that's why I think that it happens.
06:34I think we know about some of the stories, but I think it happens far too often.
06:39And so that's why I'm in this legal battle, because I'm really tired of it happening to black and brown creatives, period.
06:48I know that's right.
06:51And, Venny, you've been doing your thing for more than a decade as well.
06:55Your brand, Levenity, is like literally everywhere.
06:58Like I'm pretty sure everybody in this audience can say that they've seen his brand, if not somewhere, then another.
07:04So the explosion of social media, as April mentioned, has provided like these massive platforms for so many designers to not just like reach broader audiences, but also connect with one another.
07:15Like designer, designer, build those mentee-mentee relationships and really champion one another.
07:20So how do you balance taking advantage of that while also keeping your brand and your ideas protected?
07:27So I guess that's like the price that we pay for social media.
07:31It's like it's kind of hard to protect it.
07:34But I think like having a distinct voice into who you are as a designer, which is why it's always good.
07:44It's not just to make clothes, you know.
07:46It's like if you know who you are as a designer and you show who you are as a brand, you'll have a following that could immediately identify what that is, you know.
07:56So like in the case of April Walker and what she's going through right now, it's like we could distinctively see that this is her brand.
08:05We knew.
08:06We knew, you know.
08:07So it's like once you have a great following and a distinct hand on the industry, the way to protect it is by doing just that and having your following kind of like just champion with you and be like, oh, that's not right.
08:21You know, it's like now it's all about how loud our bark can be, you know, because right now the more we kind of rally up together, the more change we will see.
08:31And the thing is, it's us rallying up together.
08:34You know, it's like we all have to just come from one cause because if she's going through it, then I'm going through it, you know, like and vice versa.
08:41Like we have to stop this competition thing.
08:44We have to stop us like, you know, this person there, that person there.
08:48So it's like if we all come together as one because it's not fair for these big companies to just come and just take what we work so hard for, it's like to them it's a check.
09:00But to us, it's like it's our heart, you know.
09:02So come on.
09:03We are not for sale.
09:05Yeah, we are not for sale.
09:05The culture is not for sale.
09:07I know that's right.
09:08And honestly, it does dishearten me even as somebody who is not a stylist or somebody who is not a designer.
09:15But it really does break my heart to know that that's my sister's design or that's my brother's design.
09:21Because what if it was my father?
09:23What if it was my aunt?
09:24What if it's my friends who are on the come up?
09:26If it's happening to one, it's happening to multiple.
09:29Yeah, and just to piggyback, and I think that that's what we don't really get.
09:33It's like if we have that mentality that like if one hurt, we all hurt.
09:38Yo, we will see so much change, for real.
09:41We will see so much change.
09:43On that note, like this case, I'm praying for a positive outcome.
09:47But the outcome is to really point to a change for our policies, a change in laws.
09:54I'd like to see a fund set up that represents independent designers for things like this that happen so they can have representation.
10:03So if anyone in the audience has access, et cetera, please DM me, get at me, because I'm dead serious about this.
10:11Amen.
10:11Wow, that's good.
10:12Amen.
10:13That's good amen.
10:14Honestly, like mic drop.
10:16And April, honestly, like you, if I were to read your receipts, we'd literally be here all day.
10:22But you're the first woman of color to launch a hip-hop clothing line and open your own boutique back in the 90s.
10:28So to say that you're a trailblazer is an understatement.
10:31Like you've absolutely been doing the work for sure.
10:36And you've worked with Aaliyah, Biggie, Jay-Z, Queen Latifah, Tupac.
10:41Like that's literally just the tip of the iceberg for her receipts.
10:45Okay.
10:45And Vinny, you did one of the looks from Queen Bey's Blackest King, which is like, need I say more, it's Beyonce.
10:55And that was epic, plus everyone from Cardi B to Nisi Nash, Fantasia, have seen your designs.
11:02But can you each take us back to that specific moment or interaction during these career highlights
11:07that helped remind you of who you are and what you've built is worth fighting for, and should it ever come to that?
11:18You start.
11:19Okay.
11:19I would say for me, it's like the dark times really are the ones, is the moments that remind me that this is what I'm fighting for
11:31because, again, I guess I kind of like went ahead on that question because imagine just seeing a company taking the art that we created
11:43and then now just plastering it on some clothes to make money and not even reach out, you know?
11:52Like these, I know for me, and this is where I am in terms of my career, I don't want to produce anything that it's not from the heart, you know?
12:03So, if I create something and it's made, and then now I see some big company just come in and then do it quicker, you know,
12:13mind you, you know, I'm a small fish, so I may only be able to do 50 units.
12:18I may only be able to do 100 units, you know?
12:21It may just be for my group, my camp, you know?
12:23So, now to see this big company who could do 100,000 units, it's like, yeah, it's just disheartening.
12:31So, it's like, I think that that's where it kind of sits home for me, you know?
12:38I agree, and I just was going to say I have two quick moments because I have a lot to share, but too quick, and I have time clock on.
12:49So, one is the first time I went to Magic to go on the floor, and they literally said,
12:57you can't be on the floor because we don't know what you represent and who you are.
13:02So, we had to get a room on the side in a conference table.
13:06My team and I had worked so hard to come to Magic and then to be told, like, what are you?
13:12We can't put you in contemporary.
13:14We can't have you here.
13:15We can't have you here.
13:16So, literally, we were off the beat in the path.
13:18But we did $2 million at that show, and guess what happened?
13:22The next time we were on the floor, and then we brought more people with us.
13:26So, I fight for that.
13:27I fight for a time when Tupac was doing Above the Rim, and he brought me to the set to actually wardrobe.
13:37And he said, it's mandatory that we have black designers.
13:40I want all of my, this, black designers.
13:43If she can't do it all, bring some more.
13:45So, I think about those moments, and I still have that spirit.
13:50And obviously, y'all both have a lot of wisdom to share.
13:59So, what are some of the first steps that a designer at any level, whether they're a legacy brand, whether they're just starting, should take if they believe that their design has been targeted or has been appropriated or has been a victim of intellectual property theft, and decide that they want to take action?
14:16I mean, seek legal action, for sure.
14:20I mean, rally up their group, rally up their followers, and then their followers would know someone.
14:27I mean, we're all connected.
14:29You know, again, it all stems from if this happens to you, reach out.
14:34You know, don't be afraid to reach out.
14:36We're in an age where it's like, I don't necessarily need to know your phone number in order for me to reach out.
14:42Now, don't go too crazy, of course.
14:43But I'm just saying, like, there's so many ways for us to kind of get connected to drive home what we need done and to protect whatever it is that we design.
14:56I agree wholeheartedly.
14:57Everybody, starting with my faith, tap into your faith, trust God, right?
15:04After you trust God and you know you have a gift to share to this world, protect it.
15:10You have a tribe.
15:12I wouldn't be here without my tribe.
15:13I'm shouting out Jamil right now.
15:15I'm shouting out Essence for having me, for giving me this platform to speak.
15:20But guess what?
15:21If I didn't pick up my own bullhorn and shout it out on social media and say, tribe, I need you.
15:27Here I am.
15:28This is what's happening.
15:29No one would know.
15:31So don't diminish and don't be apologetic about your voice.
15:37Use it.
15:38You have purpose.
15:39You have talent.
15:40You have seeds to plant.
15:41Make it happen.
15:42And together is better.
15:45Absolutely.
15:46And before we go, I want to say, April and Vinny, thank you so much for taking the time out to come to Essence Fashion House to remind us that the, well, not remind us because we know, but remind the people that are watching that the culture is not for sale.
16:00So before we do part ways and return to the rest of Essence Fashion House, let people know how they can follow your journey.
16:07Yeah, on Instagram, I have my personal page is at Vinny Etienne and for my business, it's at LaVenity.
16:13And I am at IamAprilWalker and at WalkerWear on Instagram and my business page is WalkerWear.com and at IamAprilWalker.com.
16:27And if you're tuned in at home, make sure to stick around for more Essence Fashion House.
16:32We'll see you later.
Comments