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00:00:00To be continued...
00:00:30To be continued...
00:01:00To be continued...
00:01:30I'm down here at the historic Rocks area of Sydney.
00:01:42And behind me is the iconic 1888 wool store.
00:01:47And it's a famous heritage wool store that was used for depositing wool, which has now been converted into a luxury hotel.
00:01:56Now, this area around here in the Rocks is full of these old wool stores.
00:02:02And it's where the precious cargo of wool was actually stored until it was loaded onto the tall ships back at the turn of the century before they sailed off to the old world and the markets of Europe.
00:02:15This is the story of wool.
00:02:20The saying Australia rides on the sheep's back refers to the significant role
00:02:50late 19th and early 20th centuries.
00:02:53It signifies the importance of sheep and the wool industry as the backbone of Australia's initial prosperity and economic growth during that period.
00:03:04Systematic cross-breeding produced the Australian merino, a very hardy sheep carrying an exceptionally heavy fleece of wool of superb quality.
00:03:14More than one quarter of the total wool of the world is produced in Australia under natural conditions.
00:03:19My name is Paddy Huntington.
00:03:21You obviously know that.
00:03:23But I'm a Sydney-based fashion journalist.
00:03:26I'm the features and fashion news director for Harbour's Bizarre Australia, the Australian correspondent for Women's Wear Daily.
00:03:32And I do a lot of talking about fashion on the ABC, on ABC television and radio.
00:03:39So it keeps me dizzy.
00:03:45Australia was built on the sheep's back.
00:03:47Yeah, look, incredible.
00:03:48I mean, we are this country on the other side of the world, what, 25 billion people now.
00:03:53When these sheep that came here were originally from Spain, the merino breed, and then they were, you know, they were hybridised and stuff.
00:04:01But we continue to produce the highest percentage of apparel wool that comes from Australia.
00:04:06I mean, New Zealand also has a lot of sheep, but they tend to produce wool for the home furnishings industry.
00:04:12It's a lot coarser.
00:04:13We are the country, you know, we're off the sheep's back, literally.
00:04:17And, yeah, wool's an amazing product.
00:04:21It really is.
00:04:23Hi, I'm Jason Brunston.
00:04:24I'm a fashion and lifestyle designer.
00:04:27I've been in the business since the early 80s, so it's about 40 years now.
00:04:30I think the Australian wool story is fascinating because it goes way back.
00:04:36It goes back to the 1820s, 1830s, when we was our biggest industry for a very long time.
00:04:44And, yeah, I used to work with Woolmark and I did a lot of work with them.
00:04:47I just think that it's part of Australia's history, you know, it's intrinsic to the culture.
00:04:55The story of sheep goes all the way back to the First Fleet as the first 29 fat-tailed sheep were brought into Australia in 1788 with the First Fleet.
00:05:06The origin of the phrase, Australia rides on the sheep's back, can be traced back to the mid-1800s, when Australia's economy heavily relied on the production and export of wool.
00:05:19Australia's climate in vast grazing lands were well-suited for sheep and farming, and the industry quickly prospered.
00:05:26At shearing time, everyone turns out to help.
00:05:33Sons and daughters, wives, neighbours, all hands and the crook.
00:05:44As they go through the drafting gate, the lands are separated from the ewes, and various classes of sheep are placed in separate yards
00:05:53to be driven into the catching pens in the shed, ready for the shearer.
00:05:59Wool soon became Australia's primary export commodity, and the revenue generated through wool played a pivotal role in the country's economic developments.
00:06:09It provided the funds necessary for infrastructure projects, such as railways and ports, and supported the growth of cities and towns.
00:06:23Australia riding on the sheep's back encapsulates the pivotal role that wool exports played in shaping the nation's economy
00:06:31and setting the stage for the emergence of a thriving garment industry.
00:06:37Australia's colonial history, marked by British settlement in the late 18th centuries, led the foundation for the wool industry.
00:06:45The introduction of merino sheep, bred for their wool, revolutionised the Australian agricultural landscape.
00:06:54The harsh Australian climate and the vast expanses of land were ideally suited for sheep farming, leading to the rapid expansion of the industry.
00:07:05The wool industry quickly became an economic backbone of Australia, providing a regular and reliable income stream, fostering the growth of related sectors.
00:07:16My name is Catherine Veltman, and I am the global project manager for the International Woolmark Prize at the Woolmark Company.
00:07:23Wool has been so ingrained within Australian history.
00:07:27I think it's such an important fibre and commodity for the Australian market.
00:07:32You know, it has such global resonance that it really does provide an opportunity for Australia to stand out on the global market.
00:07:45The early 19th century witnessed a significant increase in the number of sheep in Australia, and this expansion was fuelled by several factors, including the aforesaid favourable climatic conditions, the availability of vast grazing lands, and the advancements in breeding techniques.
00:08:07John McArthur, often referred to as the father of the Australian wool industry, played a pivotal role in introducing merino sheep and improving the wool quality through selective breedings.
00:08:23There's nothing else like wool out there that can be so amazing for the environment and has the most amazing eco-credential.
00:08:35It's sustainable, it's organic, it's natural, and it's biodegradable.
00:08:41And moving forward, with the way the world's going, I think we need to start to learn more about buying for longevity and not landfill.
00:08:53My name's Georgie Wallace, and our property here is called Trefusis.
00:08:58I've always had a great passion for merino sheep and their wool.
00:09:03I think wool is such a wonderful, versatile, sustainable and clean green fibre.
00:09:08So I think it has a really bright future.
00:09:12We're in the spotlight of the world now, so we've got to be putting our best foot forward and seeing that we are, we are doing something positive.
00:09:26We're improving the land for future generations.
00:09:30It is so much better for the environment.
00:09:33I see that we're custodians of this property.
00:09:37We want to see our native flora and fauna thrive.
00:09:41And I think for the whole biodiversity of this property, it's important to look after that native land.
00:09:47So we want to leave this property in an even better order for the next generation.
00:09:51I'm Alistair Laid.
00:09:55I'm part of a family business that's been producing ultra-fine merino for 140 years.
00:10:00And I'm fourth generation and looking forward to the fifth generation taking over.
00:10:04I run 10,000 ultra-fine merinos on 1,000 hectares.
00:10:09In this environment up here that we really enjoy living in, we have beautiful, clean water, good soils.
00:10:16And with the right amount of sun, we can grow high-quality, nutritious grass that is ideal for these ultra-fine merinos to produce some of the best natural fibre in the world.
00:10:28It's a pleasure going out and seeing these happy, healthy sheep.
00:10:32And they really respond to being looked after.
00:10:37We're all merino operation for fine wool.
00:10:39We have about 16,500 sheep.
00:10:41I think one of the great things about family businesses and farms in particular is that we don't have to manage for a result in 12 months' time or in 6 months' time.
00:10:49We're managing for generations.
00:10:51So the health of the landscape's important to us, not for now, but in 30 or 60 or 100 years' time.
00:10:58Hopefully we're moving into a society that is less throwaway.
00:11:01Wool lends itself perfectly into that.
00:11:03It's definitely not a product that you have for one season and discard at the end of that.
00:11:08It's an annual product that's grown naturally on a sheep's batch.
00:11:12The availability of a reliable and abundant material encouraged the establishment of textile mills and garment manufacturing facilities within Australia.
00:11:22And this, in turn, created employment opportunities, stimulated local economies and fostered technological advancements in the garment production process.
00:11:31Sure, I'm John Roberts.
00:11:34I'm the Chief Executive Officer of Australian Wool Innovation and the Managing Director of its subsidiary company, the Woolmark Company.
00:11:42I stem from a wool growing family in the southern highlands in New South Wales.
00:11:46But I actually grew up in the city, so I won't pretend to be a country boy.
00:11:50But I certainly, it's always been part of my history and I think it's in my blood a bit to be part of the wool industry.
00:11:58Yeah.
00:12:09A month in my diary is, it's quite diverse.
00:12:13I've got everything from standing in a paddock with wool growers talking about fly strike or worm prevention to the other end of the supply chain that the International Woolmark Prize in Paris, for example.
00:12:26So, and everything else in between.
00:12:29It's a privilege to do the job.
00:12:33Riding on the sheep's back is, you know, I think people of my generation and older grew up listening to that phrase.
00:12:41And it was true, I think, you know, when the wool industry started in Australia, once it really started to hit its straps and we started, you know, we got to 170 million sheep in Australia, it was, the economy was very much dependent upon the scale of the Australian wool industry.
00:12:59And certainly through two wars and the Korean War as well, I think, you know, wool was a key part of, a key export and, you know, it was a huge form of revenue for Australia.
00:13:14So, we, I think a lot of that's probably lost on subsequent generations.
00:13:19That said, it's still a hugely significant industry for Australia.
00:13:23Today, wool still accounts for about three and a half to $4 billion in exports for Australia, for the Australian economy.
00:13:36It's a lot less than it used to be in terms of volumes, but the prices have actually come up quite a lot.
00:13:42So, in terms of dollars, it's still quite a significant export.
00:13:45I think the wool industry in Australia is one that a lot of people don't realise how important it is.
00:13:54You know, the significance of the amount of wool that we export to Europe and to China, the amount of business that we do with, you know, all of those Italian fabric mills, you know.
00:14:08And for any guy or girl who's bought a suit and has flicked through, you know, all of those beautiful fabric swatches, and we all want an Italian fabric.
00:14:18In fact, most of that's made from Australian wool.
00:14:21It's an extraordinary business.
00:14:23And I think that more power to the growers, and I hope that, you know, as time goes forward, they get a larger piece of the pie, because otherwise it's not sustainable.
00:14:40I think what's so amazing about the wool business and the wool fibre, I mean, it's a miracle fibre.
00:14:45It comes from, you know, sunshine, grass and rain, and these incredible animals produce this beautiful fibre, which is so versatile.
00:14:54I mean, this fibre, it has the most perfect drape, the most beautiful silhouettes, the most perfect handle.
00:14:59It's technical, it's functional, it has moisture management, odour management, shape retention, and all these things that, you know, people try to replicate it in the laboratory and they simply can't.
00:15:09So I think that's the miracle of the fibre, plus the fact that it is also now one of the most sustainable fibres on the planet, which I think we've probably not spoken enough about in the past.
00:15:19So the thing about wool that is so amazing is just it's a diversity, you know, everyone can find a connection with wool, but the way you use wool can be interpreted in so many different ways.
00:15:32You know, whether you're looking at it from, you know, a traditional sense in terms of tailoring and knitwear, but then you've got a lot of designers coming and looking at wool from a new perspective, from performance and really tapping into those qualities that make it stand out.
00:15:48And then you also have all of its natural benefits, you know, the fact that wool is natural, renewable, biodegradable, it's the most recycled apparel fibre in the world, just lends itself so nicely to the way the industry is going.
00:16:03People want to find those alternatives that are going to be gentler on the environment and will definitely provide that.
00:16:48The development of transportation infrastructure,
00:16:52such as railways and ports,
00:16:54further facilitated the growth of the wool industry.
00:17:12And this allowed for the efficient transportation of wool
00:17:15from remote rural areas to urban centres,
00:17:19both within Australia and international export.
00:17:39Additionally, the establishment of wool auctions
00:17:42provided a platform for buyers and sellers
00:17:45to negotiate prices,
00:17:47ensuring fair trade practices
00:17:49and enhancing market transparency.
00:17:53Australia's abundant wool supply
00:17:55soon captured the attention of the international garment industry.
00:17:58The superior quality of Australian wool,
00:18:01particularly our merino wool,
00:18:03made it a highly sought-after textile
00:18:05for manufacturers worldwide.
00:18:07The fine texture, the strength,
00:18:10the natural insulation properties of Australian wool
00:18:13made an ideal material for producing high-quality garments
00:18:16by the textile mills in Europe.
00:18:19As the demand for Australian wool increased,
00:18:22so did the export volumes.
00:18:24Wool shipments were primarily destined
00:18:27for the textile manufacturing hubs in Europe,
00:18:29particularly in Britain,
00:18:31where the industrial revolution was in foreswing.
00:18:34The Australian wool industry played a crucial role
00:18:39in providing a reliable and sustainable source of raw material
00:18:42to support the growing textile industry,
00:18:45contributing to significantly the economic development
00:18:48of both Australia and the importing nations.
00:18:52The export of wool provided Australia
00:18:54with valuable foreign exchange earnings,
00:18:56enabling the country to import machinery, technology
00:18:59and other goods for industrialisation.
00:19:03And this economic growth, driven by the wool industry,
00:19:06laid the foundation for the emergence
00:19:08of a domestic garment manufacturing sector in Australia.
00:19:14The Australian garment industry
00:19:16emerged as a normal progression
00:19:18from the wool industry.
00:19:20Initially, the focus was on producing woolen garments,
00:19:23such as sweaters and blankets and coats,
00:19:26capitalising on the unique properties of Australian wool.
00:19:30Furthermore, the wool industry's impact
00:19:32extended beyond economic factors.
00:19:35It shaped Australia's identity and cultural heritage.
00:19:40The image of the rugged Australian sheep stations
00:19:43and the iconic Australian stockmen
00:19:45became synonymous with the country's national identity and character.
00:19:51The wool industry became ingrained
00:19:53into the image of the nation's psyche,
00:19:55just like the American cowboy,
00:19:57serving as a symbol of resilience,
00:20:00hard work and resourcefulness.
00:20:02The cowboy can come from anywhere.
00:20:06And we have this wonderful, you know,
00:20:12heritage with the awards now called, you know,
00:20:14the International Woolmark Prize.
00:20:16But I mean, it was originally the Wool Secretariat
00:20:18board, E. Severl and Karl Lagerfeld won,
00:20:21and I think it's 1954.
00:20:22So, you know, it's an incredible story.
00:20:26And we have this connection to the fashion industry
00:20:28via this amazing fibre.
00:20:31I've been involved with Woolmark, I guess,
00:20:34probably through my whole career somewhere or another.
00:20:40What I love about fashion is the craft.
00:20:42It's not necessarily just, you know, a look or a show.
00:20:45That's motivating as well to get a look and sort of realise it.
00:20:49But it's the craftsmanship of actually being able to drape
00:20:51a piece of fabric, work with beautiful quality fabrics
00:20:54and come up with a story.
00:21:01I was on the South Australian Wool Board for many years,
00:21:05which I learnt a lot about, you know,
00:21:07from the farmer to the shop, I guess, that whole process.
00:21:11So, and then worked a bit with the CSIRO
00:21:13and trying to develop fabrics,
00:21:16silken wool and fabrics, things that were, you know,
00:21:19probably a little bit different to what was on the market
00:21:21or what available.
00:21:22But there's so much more now that is available.
00:21:24So it's exciting.
00:21:25There's so much more technology and development.
00:21:30I used a lot of marina wool in my last collection in Paris
00:21:33and I mixed it with a lot of lace because I love the idea
00:21:35of even with what I do now,
00:21:37mixing different textures and fabrics together.
00:21:39And also, you know, using a lot of pleating
00:21:42and silk doesn't pleat whereas wool does.
00:21:46So it's quite interesting to experiment
00:21:49with different fabrics together
00:21:50because you get very different effects
00:21:51than when you wash things afterwards.
00:21:53And so the last collection was not necessarily intentional
00:21:58just to use wool.
00:21:59It was because it was a great fabric to use.
00:22:01With what I do, I'm a luxury company
00:22:04that uses very good quality fabrics.
00:22:06So if I choose to work with wool,
00:22:07it's going to be a good quality fabric.
00:22:09And it's natural and it breathes
00:22:12and it does so many more things
00:22:14than man-made fibres could do.
00:22:16I think the wool industry in Australia,
00:22:18I mean, it's like New Zealand.
00:22:20It's incredibly important to both, you know, countries.
00:22:24But it's something that I see now.
00:22:27The wool board has definitely taken a different direction
00:22:29in its marketing
00:22:30and they have international competitions
00:22:34of which Australia is very strong in support.
00:22:36And it's very important for the industry
00:22:39and it's very important
00:22:40because they're actually bringing younger designers
00:22:42to the forefront in an international way
00:22:45rather than a local kind of, you know,
00:22:48farmers marketing way.
00:22:49I hate to say that, but it is.
00:22:51It's very international now.
00:22:52And I think, you know, it has a great group of people
00:22:55across judging the different fashion categories.
00:22:59But apart from that, for me, it's sort of,
00:23:01I would like to see a lot more
00:23:03of the wool finished in Australia.
00:23:05So it's sorted and combed and spun here
00:23:08rather than often it's sent overseas,
00:23:11whether it's to Italy or China to be finished
00:23:13and then sent back here as fabric.
00:23:15But, you know, it's a very strong industry here
00:23:17and I think it's something
00:23:18that we all need to support and recognise.
00:23:20Australian wool has always been a really important story
00:23:24in context of not just the industry
00:23:26but Australian Fashion Week.
00:23:28It's one of our competitive advantages.
00:23:31You know, the fine micron merino wool
00:23:33that Australia produces is one of the best raw materials
00:23:37for fashion to be found anywhere in the world.
00:23:40And the ultimate is Australian designers
00:23:42using their own raw materials as a competitive advantage
00:23:45and taking that to the world.
00:23:47We wanted to encourage as much as possible
00:23:49for Australian designers to focus on wool.
00:23:52So we had a very close association
00:23:55with Australian Woolmark Company.
00:23:58They became a sponsor of the event in the early days
00:24:01and we were very supportive.
00:24:03And our work together was encouraging more
00:24:06and more Australian designers to embrace the opportunity
00:24:10with wool and the innovation that was being developed
00:24:13to be used in different sort of knitted and fibres.
00:24:16So everyone from Dion Lee to Carla Zampatti to, you know,
00:24:22to everyone, Sasson Byde, really got involved in working
00:24:27with the wool program, which was fantastic.
00:24:30And this has become a global phenomenon now.
00:24:34I mean, it was initially launched back in the early 60s
00:24:39when Karl Lagerfeld, in fact, won the International Woolmark Prize
00:24:43and then it was reinvented by the Woolmark Company
00:24:46a number of years later.
00:24:48We got heavily involved in helping to establish that in Australia
00:24:53and various parts around the world.
00:24:55And myself and my wife, Kirsten, were involved in judging that
00:24:59for many years.
00:25:00And as a continuation of the story of wool,
00:25:04and that is to be able to influence designers to use
00:25:08what is the most sustainable, most beautiful resource in the world to use.
00:25:14So the ultimate is Australian designers using Australian wool
00:25:19and Australian Fashion Week always had a role in promoting that association.
00:25:24The ultimate goal of the prize is to educate these designers
00:25:28on the benefits of using wool, provide them with the resources they need
00:25:32to integrate it into their business models
00:25:35and then ultimately have them as lifelong wool advocates
00:25:38so that they can really embed it into their business models
00:25:41and show consumers how amazing it is.
00:25:54The Woolmark Prize is just a critical focal point
00:25:58for the power and the irresistibility of wool.
00:26:02The importance of this prize is on rivals, one that focuses on craft,
00:26:12on individual nations and currencies and geographic locations
00:26:17and seeing how they can implement that within their own work.
00:26:24The extraordinary innovation that took place with wool
00:26:27of subverting everything we think we know about this fabric
00:26:30and making it incredibly modern, ethical, conscious.
00:26:35I thought it was a really intelligent group of designers.
00:26:42The Woolmark Prize is probably our crown jewel
00:26:45in terms of some of the marketing campaigns we do.
00:26:48It's the crown jewel because it's not just about marketing
00:26:51but it's also about developing alumni of people who learn to love wool
00:26:56and talk about wool for the rest of their career.
00:27:01We think that the Woolmark Prize is still very highly regarded,
00:27:06still one of the most prestigious fashion awards, we believe, in the world.
00:27:11As it's evolved over the years, it also hasn't just been a fashion award
00:27:14but we have a sustainability component to it
00:27:16and an innovation component to it.
00:27:18So it's something that we want to keep pushing and driving.
00:27:23The Woolmark Prize for me is a sign of excellence.
00:27:27What I'm loving really this year is the use of wool mixed with sustainability.
00:27:33Natural fibres need to be so considered as part of our wardrobes,
00:27:37as part of the process and the way in which we work in fashion.
00:27:40I think the designers who are part of the Woolmark Prize have solutions.
00:27:44When you talk to the designers here today, they're all alive to possibilities
00:27:51that I don't think people were even considering five years ago.
00:27:56I mean, wool is the most sustainable material
00:28:00and they are using it in an exquisite and very innovative manner.
00:28:05This generation of young designers and establishing designers are the future of fashion.
00:28:18The Woolmark Prize is regarded as a hugely prestigious event.
00:28:19I mean, we're lucky enough. We get a judging panel who come in every year.
00:28:23We get the likes of Tim Blanks. They come and do this out of the goodness of their heart.
00:28:27And a lot of the time, they're not charging us to come in.
00:28:29They actually want to be here to actually judge these things.
00:28:30We've had Victoria Beckham judge in the past as well.
00:28:31And they do this because they want to see good young talent evolve and also they want to push for sustainable fibres.
00:28:36So it's something that we're really proud of and we want to continue to push.
00:28:41The program is so unique in that it's opened up to emerging design and the production.
00:28:47It's a big part of the project that we're at the same time as a whole.
00:28:50We're at the same time as a whole.
00:28:52It's a big part of the project and we're at the same time as a whole.
00:28:55And we've had Victoria Beckham judge in the past as well.
00:28:57We've had Victoria Beckham judge in the past as well.
00:29:00And they do this because they want to see good young talent evolve.
00:29:03And also they want to push for sustainable fibres.
00:29:06It's something that we're really proud of and want to continue to push.
00:29:09it's opened up to emerging designers across the globe.
00:29:13And then once they're onboarded as a finalist,
00:29:15they receive 60,000 AUD,
00:29:18and then they enter what we call the Innovation Academy,
00:29:20which is our education and mentorship program,
00:29:24where they are given the tools and the resources
00:29:27and the mentorship to develop
00:29:28a six look Merino wool collection.
00:29:31And then that's kind of the beginning
00:29:32of their journey with wool often.
00:29:34And it's really amazing to see how they embrace that,
00:29:37embed it within their company and their ethos,
00:29:41and then continue on later after the prize.
00:29:44I'm Saul Nash, and I'm a menswear designer in London.
00:29:47And today we're here at Somerset House at my studio.
00:29:53This is my messy desk.
00:29:54This is where I sit.
00:29:57And up on the wall, we have every collection
00:29:59that we've made to date.
00:30:02I do that so we always have a reference to go through
00:30:06so we can see the journey that we're going on as a brand.
00:30:10In my masters, I'd explored knitwear,
00:30:14and I'd always been keen to bring knitwear back into my work,
00:30:17but I couldn't find the right partners to do it with.
00:30:20And I had visited the Walmart company many years prior,
00:30:25just to explore a bit about what they do.
00:30:27And I was really intrigued because on that visit,
00:30:31I discovered that wool could be used in so many other ways
00:30:34than, you know, your traditional knitted sweater
00:30:37or, you know, your traditional wool coat.
00:30:42I think that's what was really exciting with the Walmart Prize,
00:30:45is that you think of things holistically,
00:30:47particularly around the discussion of sustainability.
00:30:51I think the Walmart Prize came at an essential time,
00:30:54particularly in my brand,
00:30:55because it was something that I was always questioning or exploring.
00:31:01So when you look at, you know, wool as a renewable material,
00:31:05and then also the fact that it's biodegradable,
00:31:08if it's used in certain ways,
00:31:10I think it's embedded, well, parts of my work
00:31:14that I can't ever see leaving again.
00:31:16It did start from that place of, you know,
00:31:19how do I design something that I want to wear all the time,
00:31:21but I was comfortable moving in.
00:31:23This idea that the garment should feel like air,
00:31:26this kind of understanding of movement,
00:31:28it's informed, like, the fabric choices.
00:31:31And then also, I guess, the technical aspects of the garment.
00:31:37So a few of these are the first kind of iteration,
00:31:41stemming back from the Walmart Prize.
00:31:42This set is made out of 100% merino wool,
00:31:46and I developed it with KnitwearLab.
00:31:47What I really love about it is that it integrates plain knit
00:31:52with mesh, and what's nice is when you wear it without a jacket,
00:31:57you feel the ventilation throughout the body,
00:32:00but then when you put a jacket on, it warms you up.
00:32:03Using wool, it's a lot more positive than using 100% synthetic fibre.
00:32:09For me, it was a step towards a better use of materials
00:32:12within my design process.
00:32:13What I loved with this garment is you have double-faced jacquard,
00:32:19but then you have single jersey integrated within it.
00:32:23So when you wear it on the body, it moves really well.
00:32:26So these are kind of iteration, stemming from what I'd created when I won the Walmart Prize.
00:32:37But what I really love about this, actually, is it's a step towards creating something
00:32:42which is 100% performance-driven or for active wear.
00:32:46Even the way the garment's constructed, it's built to resist.
00:32:50It can be worn on different bodies because it's made quite small,
00:32:55and it stretches to the different body types.
00:32:58Look, I think the Walmart Prize in the future, I think it'll always have the element of fashion,
00:33:04obviously, but I think it'll be about sustainable fashion.
00:33:08We spoke earlier about how fashion is the number one priority these days,
00:33:12and I think given how sustainable wool is,
00:33:16I think there's always going to be the element of sustainability,
00:33:19whether that be natural dyes or just talking about the virtues of wool more broadly.
00:33:25But also, I think there's a functionality component.
00:33:28We've often talked about wool as a luxury fibre,
00:33:32but we don't often talk about wool as a technical fibre, and it's highly technical.
00:33:36So we're certainly pushing for that with our designers as they come through.
00:33:40So the finalists over the years have been so diverse.
00:33:43So obviously, starting back in the 1950s with Karl Lieberfeld, Yves Saint Laurent.
00:33:48Since then, we've had the likes of Edward Crutchley, who won.
00:33:51He was actually the first finalist ever to have a double win.
00:33:55He won the Men's Wear and the Innovation Award back in 2019.
00:33:59And then he went on to work at Dior following that.
00:34:01We had Gabriella Hurst win the women's wear category a few years ago,
00:34:05and then went on to work at Chloe.
00:34:07We've had more recently Sol Nash, who is one of a UK performance wear designer.
00:34:13And I mean, he's doing the most incredible things.
00:34:15We actually just launched a ski-inspired athleisure wear collection with him.
00:34:21We've had the likes of Kolovos from the US.
00:34:25We've had Christopher Bevins from the US.
00:34:27He was the first person to win the Innovation Award.
00:34:31We've had Bodice from India, who was absolutely incredible.
00:34:35Rahul Mishra, who won in 2014.
00:34:37And, you know, I think he's one of the most incredible winners we've ever had.
00:34:42He so consistently uses wool and pushes the boundaries of wool, collection to collection,
00:34:48that he's such an incredible alumni member to have.
00:34:54The winner is Rahul Mishra.
00:35:00I must have finished myself a hundred times so far.
00:35:04I'm still sinking in the feeling, I'm still feeling as I'm dreaming.
00:35:07It has been one of the biggest dreams I ever had in my life.
00:35:10It's going to create such a huge motivation within a country of millions,
00:35:14that you believe in your own roots and think about the universe.
00:35:19Like, look really far in the past and create something in the future.
00:35:26It makes me so much emotional right now, when I'm here,
00:35:32actually touching it, feeling how
00:35:34it is produced. And I've worked with this fiber for such a long time.
00:35:42And very honestly, this fiber has kind of given me so much.
00:35:46I'm able to express myself really well when I work with wool, with Merino especially.
00:35:53The entire inspiration of this collection also started with this story of wool, or story of Merino,
00:36:04and how something which is so sustainable starts from farm, goes to highest in fashion.
00:36:11And this is what kind of amazes me when I see something which is being produced
00:36:16on a farm level, on such a green platform, goes to probably Manhattan in New York,
00:36:25most artificial city humans have ever built.
00:36:31Because of the incredible source, that entire field is maintained.
00:36:35That's why I'm saying this fiber has got a life of its own.
00:36:38And that life still exists.
00:36:43So this is where we started weaving it, in one of the weaving villages in India.
00:36:48Again, this is also kind of a sustainable model.
00:36:51Then we have got a group of weavers who weave with hand.
00:36:54Like, this guy who has woven it, he has been weaving it for more than 10 generations,
00:36:59have gone into weaving the fabric.
00:37:01And this is more than 90% Merino wool.
00:37:05This is what is an amazing technique.
00:37:08Like, he would literally lift every yarn and insert this extra weft, which is here.
00:37:15This makes it amazing.
00:37:17Created this embroidery, again with 100% Merino wool yarn.
00:37:21But embroidery never felt so soft, ever.
00:37:26Like, this really feels amazingly soft.
00:37:29It's like couture, which can be worn every day, which feels soft,
00:37:36which has got such a great feeling.
00:37:39I think we could have not got it with any other fiber, any other fabric, any other thread.
00:37:44This kind of feeling.
00:37:45This is one of the most important things that we have ever had.
00:37:54So we've had a few Australians in the mix.
00:37:55So from an Australian perspective,
00:37:57our finalists have included Dion Lee,
00:38:00Albus Luhmann, Christopher Esber, McGraw, Bianca Spender.
00:38:05Most recently, we had Jordan Duller
00:38:07a few years ago as a finalist.
00:38:09So there's definitely be some strong
00:38:12Australian finalists in the mix.
00:38:13The last International Worldwide Prize final was in Paris.
00:38:16So we took it back to its roots.
00:38:18It first started in Paris in the 1950s.
00:38:21So it was very exciting to go back there in May, 2023.
00:38:26We held it at Le Petit Palais, excuse my French,
00:38:30but it was an absolutely incredible venue,
00:38:32really historical, incredibly, just aesthetically beautiful.
00:38:36So to have that as a backdrop of showing innovation,
00:38:40the modernity of wool was a really cool contrast.
00:38:43Our most recent winner was Lagos Space Programme from Nigeria,
00:38:53who won the International Woolmark Prize.
00:38:55And then Aroga Ho from Copenhagen
00:38:58won our Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation.
00:39:00You know, I always find it really interesting to see
00:39:04how the winners and the finalists reflect
00:39:06what's happening in the world.
00:39:07And I think with this most recent batch of finalists,
00:39:11you really saw that post-COVID casualisation trend come through.
00:39:15They were very much designing for versatility
00:39:18and for looks and garments that the consumer can mix and match
00:39:23and use in their everyday life.
00:39:24And then, you know, for more special occasions as well.
00:39:27So Lagos Space Programme was very much focused
00:39:31on incredible tailoring and shirting, amazing, amazing
00:39:34Nigerian heritage and the different dye techniques
00:39:38that their culture uses, which was just beautiful to see.
00:39:42And then Aroga Ho, on the other hand,
00:39:45was very focused on knitwear and pushing the boundaries
00:39:47of knitwear within her current business model.
00:39:51So she worked with a lot of our trade partners
00:39:54to reinvent how you approach knitwear within a collection.
00:39:57I think, you know, the International Woolmark Prize
00:40:00has been running for so many years now.
00:40:02And I think one of the most important elements of it
00:40:05is the industry support that we receive.
00:40:07You know, we have worked with the most incredible industry members
00:40:11to support the designers, but also wool and the wool industry.
00:40:16You know, these judges that come on board every year,
00:40:19whether that be Tim Blanks from Business of Fashion,
00:40:21Corinne Whitefield from CR Fashion Book,
00:40:24Edward Ennfield, who is with Vogue,
00:40:26these amazing figureheads who come on often free of charge.
00:40:30They're offering their time and their wisdom to the prize
00:40:35and to the designers to really amplify wool on a global scale.
00:40:38And I think their passion for wool is what makes it so amazing.
00:40:42You know, we've got all these people coming together
00:40:44from different disciplines within the industry,
00:40:47but they all believe in wool,
00:40:48which is a really amazing thing to see.
00:40:50Well, the International Woolmark Prize
00:40:53is something that goes way back.
00:40:56The brands that we've worked with over the years,
00:40:57such as Vivian Westwood, Victoria Beckham.
00:41:02And I think that Woolmark are doing a wonderful thing,
00:41:05supporting young designers,
00:41:07and not just from Britain or Europe.
00:41:09You know, this is a whole world.
00:41:11We have people from Australia, China, Japan,
00:41:14and that's great to treat the world as well.
00:41:17Donatella Versace, all of these designers,
00:41:20they believe in wool as well and they work with wool in their own capacity.
00:41:25So when they then come on board to support the prize,
00:41:27it's, you know, such a natural fit.
00:41:30And they're incredible ambassadors to have for the fibre.
00:41:34And Australia, wool has played a significant role
00:41:44in the British and Italian garment industries,
00:41:47particularly with Italian luxury companies like Xenia.
00:41:52And the Xenia brand were not just content to champion Australian wool,
00:41:56the Xenia family were committed, so committed,
00:42:00that they actually bought a majority stake in an Australian wool farm.
00:42:04The actual farm in Australia's New South Wales
00:42:07might not be where you'd expect to find a count,
00:42:11an Italian count or a luxury Italian brand,
00:42:14but this 2,500-hectare property
00:42:17is exactly where Emilia Xenia wanted to be.
00:42:21And in 2014, the luxury fashion house
00:42:25bought a 60% share in this family-run farm.
00:42:29For the company, then chairman, third-generation member, Paola,
00:42:35it was a good opportunity to work closely with wool growers
00:42:38to develop the right fibres for his garments.
00:42:42Convincing farmer Charlie Coventry and his family
00:42:45to sell them a stake was a challenge.
00:42:48But in the end, both sides did find common ground
00:42:51in both being family businesses.
00:42:54We certainly have a sense of family commitment, seriousness,
00:42:59and how well you can do your job, whatever your job is.
00:43:03I think there's a lot of commonalities between us, Paolo Xenia said.
00:43:08And for Emilia Xenia, the purchase completed the cycle of full integration,
00:43:14widely referred to internally as a business that goes from sheep to shop.
00:43:20And in Australia's digital age, however,
00:43:22their end point is also way much more on the screen.
00:43:25So it's important to connect to a new generation of digital savvy customers.
00:43:31The idea was that the fabrication, sort of the fabric itself, was made in Italy.
00:43:48That is how it all started.
00:43:56It all started with great fabrics.
00:43:59The idea was to take away that business that Great Britain had had forever
00:44:04and having the highest quality fabrications in the world.
00:44:07It just goes to show how much they care.
00:44:09And that care came way back when they first started creating fabrics
00:44:13and the details that were put into small mini books
00:44:16describing every little particle and detail within the fabrication
00:44:21that created what you see today.
00:44:25The Xenia family has always been innovative.
00:44:28In 1963, they decided to collaborate with farmers and create the Xenia Trophy.
00:44:33This giving the opportunity for a farmer to win a prize,
00:44:37but also create something that is probably better than something that's ever been created
00:44:41and share that information with all other farmers.
00:44:44And since then, Xenia has given away many trophies to different farmers,
00:44:48one being Australia, where they have the golden fleece, which is like the paramount of sheep's wool,
00:44:56creating one of the finest merino wools in the world.
00:44:58Over the decades, they've had, they've come all the way to the Centennial Award,
00:45:04which has created something that was a little bit bigger than 11 micron thick wool, which is surreal.
00:45:10They've only been able to create, I think, 200 meters of that wool.
00:45:13So this is something that Xenia has done to be not only the best merchant, retailer, and supplier of suits,
00:45:21but somebody who can create the best fabrics still in the world.
00:45:25Italian mills have long been recognised for their expertise in textile production and garment manufacturing.
00:45:33The use of premium materials is a critical factor in their ability to create high-quality fabrics.
00:45:40An Australian fine wool, renowned for its exceptional quality,
00:45:44has been highly sought after by Italian mills for many decades.
00:45:50Italian mills, including those associated with prestige brands like Xenia,
00:45:55have long established partnerships with Australian wool producers.
00:45:59And these collaborations ensured a consistent supply of high-quality wool,
00:46:04which formed the foundation of these luxurious fabrics produced in these famed Italian mills.
00:46:12The unique characteristics of the Australian wool, such as its softness, its durability,
00:46:17its versatility, made it an ideal material for the creation of elegant and refined garments.
00:46:26I mean, the Italians love Australian wool, which is great, because we know Italians like the finer things in life.
00:46:32You know, they are always looking for the most premium option, whether it's clothing, apparel and fibres,
00:46:38or it's what they eat or what they drink, as we were saying before.
00:46:40So I think the fact that they discovered Australian merino wool so many years ago and have embedded it within their industry really shows that it is one of the best fibres on the planet.
00:46:55They adopted it so long ago from a very traditional sense within their tailoring and their knitwear.
00:47:00And you can see that through a lot of our partners, as you said, Xenia or Benetton, you know,
00:47:05they're longstanding partners of the of the Walmart company, and they continue to use wool season on season just because it's unbeatable.
00:47:13They love the qualities that it provides and their consumers love it, too.
00:47:29Xenia, in particular, has a longstanding history of sourcing wool directly from Australia.
00:47:38And the company's commitment to quality and craftsmanship has made it a leading player in the luxury menswear market.
00:47:47Xenia's use of Australian fine wool has contributed to its reputation for producing exquisite fabrics that exemplify both style and comfort.
00:47:58The influence of Australian fine wool in the Italian mills goes beyond the material itself.
00:48:05Australian wool producers have collaborated with these Italian mills to develop innovative techniques and processes
00:48:13that enhance the performance and aesthetics and appeal of the fabrics.
00:48:18And these collaborations have led to advancements in fabric finishes and dyeing methods and blending techniques,
00:48:26further elevating the quality and versatility of Australian fine wool.
00:48:35The Lunarossa Prada Pirelli team, we started partnering with them, oh gosh, we've just, we're in our second year, second phase now,
00:48:43so probably about five, six years ago.
00:48:46And they were looking for a partner who could help them develop technical wear that would still align with their
00:48:53focus on sustainability.
00:48:55So we worked with them on developing a collection that would provide the performance benefits they needed.
00:49:00So obviously their sailors are training both on and off the water.
00:49:04So making sure that they've got gear that allows them to move freely, that regulates their temperature,
00:49:11wicks moisture, provides them with that soft next to skin feel.
00:49:15And we created a full kit with them.
00:49:17So you've got their training kit.
00:49:19So more of your gym wear.
00:49:22And then you've also got the kit that they wear on the water as well.
00:49:37The attraction for Prada, for wool, I think has evolved over time.
00:49:41I mean, previously it was all about what we stood for in terms of quality, in terms of luxurious,
00:49:47glamorous, perfectly good fibre with beautiful drape.
00:49:51Now, the attraction for someone like Prada is our sustainable characteristics and our eco credentials.
00:49:58And I think that's what a lot of people are now changing the way they want to engage with the
00:50:03Woolmark company.
00:50:04Yes, all the good stuff that we're known for in terms of quality is still a priority for them.
00:50:09But the added bonus now is they recognise us as the sustainability partner.
00:50:14And we're finding that more and more as people gravitate back towards natural fibres.
00:50:19So it's a very special time for the wool industry right now.
00:50:23We've been lucky enough to work really closely with Prada in the last little while.
00:50:28And Lorenzo Bertelli has been a really great supporter of the fibre.
00:50:32The first thing we did was work with the Prada Lunarossa America's Cup sailing team.
00:50:41It's been an incredible journey.
00:50:43They are mad about sailing and obviously sailing has a global audience that's vast.
00:50:48They were looking for a sustainability partner to come up with something that was more appealing
00:50:57to and functional for their sailors, but also something where they could illustrate their morphing
00:51:03to a more sustainable brand.
00:51:05So we worked with the Prada team to come up with some technical
00:51:12outfits to wear it, not just for outer shell, for water repellent, base layer for working out
00:51:18and doing the grinders and everything else that these sailors do.
00:51:21And we put all those products through to the test.
00:51:25We outfitted them all.
00:51:26They became huge advocates for those outfits.
00:51:29One, because they don't put micro plastics into the ocean, which they adore.
00:51:33And two, because they really love the functionality of it.
00:51:37And then after that, from there, we've been lucky enough to do a capsule collection with Prada
00:51:44as they look to sort of move towards a more sustainable image.
00:51:48And we're lucky enough that they're working with us to be that partner.
00:51:54But it isn't just the Italians who have a thing for the romance and power of Australian wolves.
00:51:59It turns out all the major international fashion announcers, the big ones, and their designers,
00:52:07all pretty much worship Australian wool as something being natural and divine.
00:52:14And this fascination is shared by many artists and designers around the world,
00:52:19who romance both the wolf and also the Australian outback farms where it comes from.
00:52:24Japanese fashion label, FaceTasm, is deeply rooted in Tokyo's edgy street culture.
00:52:32Journeying to Australia, founder, designer, Hiro Michi Okai,
00:52:38visited a Merino wool growing facility to mark the beginning of a two-year season
00:52:43and partnership with the Walmart company.
00:52:45Japan is a wonderful market, obviously. You know, it's a leading fashion market.
00:53:06And there's always good evolving designers coming through.
00:53:09We've been lucky enough to work with a group called FaceTasm.
00:53:12And the young designer there, he came out a couple of years ago now,
00:53:16and we did a lovely capsule collection with him, beautiful collection.
00:53:21And part of that was him coming out and doing some videography on Australian farms,
00:53:26looking at shearing, touching sheep.
00:53:28And it was a beautiful piece of videography, which he was emotionally very moved by that whole product.
00:53:34And I think the wool growers who we came and saw weren't just appreciative that someone had come and taken an interest in their fiber and where it had come from.
00:53:42So it was a lovely meeting of two, you know, extreme ends of the supply chain.
00:53:46I felt like I had to feel the nature of the nature of the forest.
00:53:51I felt like I was feeling good.
00:53:52I felt like I was feeling good.
00:53:54I was always looking forward to the forest.
00:53:56I was looking forward to the forest.
00:53:58Look, when designers like FaceTasm come out to Australia, I think,
00:54:03first of all, they're overwhelmed by the hospitality and the wool,
00:54:06particularly in the bush, in the regional areas.
00:54:09And the thing that probably really strikes them is the vastness of it, the open spaces.
00:54:15And almost the lawlessness of it, I think, for them is a bit overwhelming.
00:54:21So I think it takes them a few days to come to terms with that.
00:54:24And then to actually see the animals, which you're not going to see an animal in Roppongi.
00:54:31That's a big thing in itself.
00:54:33So to see not just one animal, but possibly 30,000 of them all being cared for
00:54:38in a free-range environment is a really beautiful thing for them,
00:54:42a really powerful thing for them.
00:54:44We love having some of our brand partners come to Australia.
00:54:48We're really proud of what Australian farmers do.
00:54:50And when we have some of these brand partners who come out,
00:54:54who you might think probably don't have a huge interest in Australian wool,
00:54:57when they come out and they see it, they see the sheep, they see the passion,
00:55:00they see the way we look after the land and look after the animals.
00:55:04I mean, it's a very emotional experience for a lot of those brands,
00:55:07whether it be new up-and-coming designers from Japan or established brands like Prada
00:55:12or Benetton or Palo Xenia, who's often out here working with the Woolmark company.
00:55:19The Woolmark company, but the Woolmark Prizes specifically provides the opportunity
00:55:23to have conversations with some of the biggest designers in the world.
00:55:26So it really is a platform to integrate ourselves into the industry and make sure that we're providing
00:55:34the industry, whether it be emerging or established designers with access to wool,
00:55:39so that they can use what we believe is the best fibre in the world.
00:55:44People wear those garments because they're at a price point.
00:55:47And I think after the war, you know, the growth of synthetic fibres and acrylic fibres
00:55:54were seen as a real progression.
00:55:56And you could argue it was, without possibly realising some of the more damaging outcomes
00:56:02from those fibres longer term.
00:56:04So I think people bought them with the right reason for the right intent.
00:56:08Look, I think petroleum-based fibres and man-made zealosic fibres,
00:56:14they have great functionality.
00:56:16And as I mentioned, they fit a good price point.
00:56:21I think the problem they have is that they don't biodegrade,
00:56:25they stay in the landfill in the perpetuity, contribute to global warming.
00:56:38The process with man-made fibres is, in terms of the lifetime of the garment,
00:56:49you tend to, it's a cheap price point, so it's often just used and then sold,
00:56:54and then another one is bought.
00:56:55So it sort of adds to this, you know, vast consumerism that seems to be happening.
00:57:02So, look, a lot of those garments are, they need to be washed a lot,
00:57:06their odour management's not there.
00:57:08There's a lot of components to them that are what I would say is not sustainable.
00:57:14They also shed microplastics into the ocean, which is a growing concern.
00:57:20So then we all end up eating those microplastics and ingest those things.
00:57:25So I think there's a bit of a reckoning happening in terms of consumer priorities,
00:57:31and consumers are becoming label-turners in a lot of respects.
00:57:35So it's making it a bit more difficult for those fibres.
00:57:38There is a huge increase in synthetics in the market at the moment.
00:57:43And, you know, one of our key roles is to help educate designers on why they should be choosing
00:57:49natural fibres, and more specifically wool.
00:57:51You know, synthetics have incredible qualities, but the fact is that they often don't last as long.
00:57:58When you compare synthetic fibres, for example, to a natural fibre such as wool,
00:58:03you really need to think about the qualities of the fabric and the garment itself.
00:58:08You know, wool has a longer lifetime.
00:58:10It is, as I said earlier, the most recycled apparel fibre on the world, meaning that the cost per wear is
00:58:16lower. So it's all about that buying less, buying better and investing in quality,
00:58:22as opposed to, you know, if you're looking at a garment that's perhaps made of a synthetic fibre,
00:58:28it's cheaper, which meaning it won't last as long.
00:58:30You're going to have to, for example, throw it out after a season or two,
00:58:34and it's not going to have that longevity within your wardrobe.
00:58:39Wool has been very important to Australia because, obviously, from a financial point of view,
00:58:46and yes, it's a huge industry and it's a very long-term industry, but it's also,
00:58:51we export some of the best wool in the world to get made into some of the best fabrics in the world,
00:58:59and then we purchase them back. So it seems ludicrous to me that that's
00:59:03the situation we're in, but we are, and Australian wool is known because it's fine,
00:59:08so it can be made into beautiful suiting and fabrics, but it isn't done here.
00:59:17So for us, you know, it's the ability to support Australian as much as we can,
00:59:23so we buy Australian wool and use the Woolmark emblem when we can,
00:59:31but I feel as though it's an industry that absolutely needs to be supported.
00:59:37So my name is Leila Najah-Hipri, and I'm the CEO of the Australian Fashion Council.
00:59:43I grew up in Beirut in Lebanon, and I came to Australia in 1990 to study economics and accounting,
00:59:51or to continue studying economics and accounting at Sydney University,
00:59:56and I've been here more or less since then, so for over 30 years.
01:00:02It's, I think, a ridiculous paradox that we are one of the biggest producers of fibre, wool and cotton,
01:00:10the most beautiful fibre, natural fibre in the world, yet we export it for, you know, spinning
01:00:19and ginning and all the add value processes. That's not even to talk about the textile manufacturing
01:00:26and the making of clothing. So one of the AFC's pillars is to actually look at how can we,
01:00:34I use the word right-shoring, it's a common word in the transformational side of fashion and fashion
01:00:43industry, and what that means is what can we bring back to Australia that we can compete on. And we
01:00:49can't compete when it comes to labour because we don't want to compete with that because, as you know,
01:00:55there are countries that are really paying pittance to labourers. But what we can compete on is
01:01:04innovation and technology. And so that's an area that if we actually incorporate innovation technology
01:01:12into our system, whether it is, you know, in the case of value adding to raw materials or actually,
01:01:22you know, making textiles and making clothing, then we have a real chance. But I don't know if you know
01:01:27this, that one of the main reasons we don't spend, for example, cotton here or wool is not labour,
01:01:33it's actually the cost of energy. So Australia, one of the most natural energy kind of rich countries
01:01:42in the world, like using that energy is too expensive for local manufacturing. So we send
01:01:50it overseas to make it overseas. It's crazy. Look, in my dreams, the ideal wool story by 2030 is that
01:01:57Australian wool growers are recognised for all the good work they do. The fibre itself is recognised
01:02:03as the most natural, sustainable, biodegradable circular fibre that it is. And the consumer priorities
01:02:10are very much centred towards that fibre. I think that's really important for us and I think it's
01:02:17important for the planet. I'd love the viewers of this program to sort of have an appreciation
01:02:24for wool and also natural fibres more broadly. I'd like consumers to think more about what they're
01:02:31buying, what they're putting on their bodies, turn the label, have a look what's going into your product,
01:02:36and think beyond price and look and think about its impact and also how long it might last.
01:02:46And I think that's just, I think it's a really important thing in the future to be a much more
01:02:50mindful consumer.
01:03:02so
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