- 7 months ago
S1.E1 β Cambodia & Vietnam
Thu, Jul 16, 2009
Rick Stein is on an epic culinary journey beginning in Cambodia, where he discovers the joys of freshly caught swimmer crabs cooked with green peppercorns from Kampot.
Thu, Jul 16, 2009
Rick Stein is on an epic culinary journey beginning in Cambodia, where he discovers the joys of freshly caught swimmer crabs cooked with green peppercorns from Kampot.
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TVTranscript
00:01Welcome to my adventure in the Far East.
00:04I'm here to discover not just the food,
00:07but what makes places like Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam tick.
00:12What's so special about Bali, Sri Lanka, Malaysia or Bangladesh?
00:17Well, the food, of course, but beyond that it's the people.
00:21People talking about food, the greatest love in their life.
00:30We'll see you next time.
00:35We'll see you next time.
00:37Bye.
01:00I suppose I'm a bit ashamed to say that I first became interested in Cambodia
01:07after reading The Killing Fields,
01:09one man's account of that terrible time when the Khmer Rouge took over the country,
01:15murdered about two to three million Cambodians and broke everything up.
01:20But one of the things that came out of it was a sense of a very sophisticated people,
01:26very nice-looking people, and with a great civilisation behind them.
01:32The whole thing, of course, was destabilised by the war in South East Asia.
01:37And then people started coming back to Cambodia,
01:40started going to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap,
01:43and here to the Gulf Coast, the Gulf of Thailand.
01:46And what came out of it particularly was the food.
01:49Well, I know a bit about Malaysian food and Thai food,
01:52but Cambodian food, no.
01:54So before I came, I thought, I'd better read up about it.
01:57And a friend said, no, don't read up about it, just go there.
02:01And so here I am, and I'm very excited,
02:03and I'm looking forward to every dish that comes my way.
02:07As you can see, it's absolutely teeming with people here.
02:28And scooters, I've never seen so many scooters.
02:31We've seen two on a scooter, three on a scooter, four on a scooter.
02:35There's loads of people coming in from the country, farmers,
02:38with all their produce on the scooter.
02:40It's like all life is here.
02:42And on a more serious note, all death is here as well,
02:45because I've just been reading about the Khmer Rouge
02:48and everything that happened in the 70s,
02:50and the fact that the whole of Phnom Penh was emptied.
02:54And that was only 30 years ago.
02:56And now look at it.
02:57It wouldn't know now that anything like that had happened.
03:00But it did happen, and all the middle-class professional people,
03:05even if they just wore glasses,
03:07were sent away to grow rice in the killing fields.
03:10Those who came back were the lucky ones.
03:12Mr Watty, my guide, was one of them.
03:15The Khmer Rouge just cared for nothing.
03:18Most of the time, you can see Khmer Rouge destroy many Buddhist monasteries,
03:23pagodas, and the temple blasted many temples,
03:27and they collected the rock for the road construction.
03:31But it is very good, even though the Khmer Rouge were very stupid,
03:34but they still maintain Angkor Wat very better.
03:37Because Angkor Wat was the symbol of the country.
03:40No Angkor Wat, no Cambodia.
03:45Out of all the countries I'm going to visit on this odyssey,
03:48I can safely say that Cambodia is one of the poorest.
03:52They call this Kep-sur-Mer.
03:54It was the French Riviera of the Far East,
03:57populated by sophisticated middle-class French people
04:01who built villas here to get away from the noise and the crowds of Phnom Penh.
04:06But when the Khmer Rouge's grip grew tighter,
04:09they were too scared to go back,
04:11and the villas were wrecked and looted by the regime.
04:14The Khmer Rouge were determined to destroy anything linked to their imperial past.
04:20It's funny, but you can still sense echoes from a time when this place would be thriving
04:25with a refined and elegant crowd entertaining in their sumptuous gardens.
04:30But I sense there's a resurgence on its way.
04:33Small hotels are being done up and well-travelled tourists looking for something different
04:38are returning to Kep.
04:40But as food plays a tremendous part in visiting a country,
04:44it seems fitting to start with their national dish, fish amok,
04:48which was cooked for me by Shanti at my hotel.
04:51Well, Shanti, the cook, first of all, made a container out of a banana leaf.
04:57Now, I'm not suggesting that you go out to your local supermarket and buy a banana leaf.
05:02No, you can get them in good Southeast Asian shops these days.
05:06But I would suggest maybe you used an earthenware pot or a little porcelain pot.
05:10It does need something a bit celebratory to do it.
05:13She took a blender and first added a couple of handfuls of lemongrass.
05:18Then she added three large cloves of garlic and two shallots.
05:23And now fresh turmeric. She peeled that, I suppose, a bit about that long.
05:27And next she took some dried chillies, red dried chillies,
05:31and just de-seeded them, just about that much, and added that.
05:35And next she took some galangal and peeled that.
05:38Now, galangal is the same sort of plant as ginger or indeed turmeric.
05:43It's a rhizome, and it's got a sort of spicy taste,
05:47which is sort of slightly reminiscent of ginger, but not quite.
05:51Then she took a couple of kaffir lime leaves, and then she added a handful of peanuts.
05:56And I went to check, and they'd actually toasted them,
05:58probably in a frying pan beforehand.
06:00Just give them a more of a nutty flavour.
06:03And then she added a, well, a large wine glass full of coconut milk.
06:08And then she blended everything together.
06:10And the whole kitchen's filled with those lovely fragrant aromas
06:14of the lemongrass and the kaffir lime leaves.
06:17Now, we went over to what I call the larder cook, who was preparing the catfish.
06:21So she cut the skin away from the fish, and then cut that into thick slices,
06:26and then cut those slices into what I call bite-sized chunks.
06:31Now, you're not going to get catfish in your local supermarket,
06:35but in my view, you'd be better off using a sea fish, a ling.
06:39I think it's got a very similar texture, because it's quite sort of like sinewy,
06:44like a catfish, and the texture is about the same.
06:47So that's what I would suggest.
06:51So she puts the paste into hot oil.
06:53I think it was palm oil.
06:55And then she adds sugar and a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce.
06:59These pastes are the essence of cooking here.
07:02They've got different names all over South East Asia.
07:05Now Shanti puts in a teaspoon of salt and some star anise, a couple of them,
07:11kaffir lime leaves, again a couple, about a cup of coconut milk,
07:16and then in with the fish.
07:19The whole lot is thickened with beaten eggs.
07:21It's more common over here than I was thought to use eggs to thicken sauces and soups.
07:26I think it's the Chinese influence.
07:29And now she adds a leaf called noni.
07:32The Latin name is merinda citrifolia.
07:34It's usually called the Indian mulberry,
07:37and the fruit of it is sometimes called the vomit fruit.
07:41That's nice.
07:42Of course, you won't be able to get the leaves at home,
07:45and I suggest using coriander.
07:49And then the whole lot is popped into a little banana leaf cup as one portion,
07:54a touch of beaten egg over the top and into the steamer for ten minutes
08:00and served with some fragrant Cambodian rice.
08:05Would you say that is Cambodia on a plate, really,
08:08in terms of the best about Cambodian cooking?
08:11There's a lot of original spices and ingredients from Cambodia.
08:15Yes, that's the resume of Cambodian food.
08:18Stefan Harry runs a hotel in Kep.
08:20He's one of the first batch of French people to return.
08:23They're such civilised people, so sophisticated.
08:27The food is so special.
08:29They're so nice.
08:30They're so beautiful.
08:32How could something like the Khmer Rouge
08:35and that terrible time in the 70s have happened?
08:38The government, the city and the countryside were different societies.
08:45The countryside was poor and very upset by the corruption of the city
08:51and the trade people, the traders people.
08:54But presumably lots of countries are like that.
08:57They don't start slaughtering each other in large numbers.
09:01What was the sort of special case here that caused that genocide?
09:06When the U.S. get involved with the Vietnamese war,
09:11a lot of Vietcong came through Cambodia to attack those Vietnams
09:18and the U.S. troops launched a huge, massive bombing from 69 till 75.
09:27Every night you have B-52s who bombed Cambodian people without reason.
09:32Cambodia was a natural country, but for six years they get more bombs
09:35than Germany during the Second World War.
09:38That's insane. Totally insane.
09:40So, no wonder the Khmer Rouge in that case, I mean, it's just like...
09:45And the hatred, presumably, of everything to do with the West.
09:48It just sort of went out of control, presumably.
09:51Totally. You can imagine to get bombed every night.
09:53You are a natural country. You don't know who, you don't know why,
09:57you don't know how long it will go along,
09:59but it was six years' bombing story.
10:02That's absolutely insane condition to develop a country.
10:09One of the most famous products from this region was Kampot pepper,
10:13but the Khmer Rouge made the farmers grow rice instead
10:16and the pepper fields were abandoned.
10:20Kampot pepper is about a hundred years of history.
10:23There were still one million poles of pepper, of pepper vine,
10:26in Kampot in the 60s.
10:28Jérôme Benazèche has helped re-establish this local cooperative
10:32and regards Kampot pepper as as important as Fleur de Sel.
10:36Although highly sought after by discerning chefs,
10:39pepper production here is only just re-emerging from that dark past.
10:44This was the king of peppers, wasn't it, Kampot?
10:47It was, and it is still one of the best peppers in the world,
10:51you know, just taste this corn, you know.
10:53I love it. It's absolutely wonderful.
10:55It's a really distinct flavour
10:57and very distinct aroma from other peppers,
11:00you know, very intense, flowery taste at the back of your mouth.
11:03Often the peppers are very spicy on the tip of your tongue
11:06and then, you know, the taste stops or gets a bit muddy in some cases.
11:11With this pepper, three seconds after this spicy taste,
11:14you've got this, you know, free, flowery aroma at the back.
11:17Get a Frenchman off on taste and off we go!
11:20No, it's like a good Bordeaux-Jongtanic wine in the last days here.
11:26The green peppers are the young fruit of the vine
11:29and they're laid out to dry in the sun for three days,
11:31depending on the weather conditions, when the husks turn black.
11:35Now they're graded by weight, by using the power of gravity
11:38to select the peppercorns.
11:40The heavier ones stay in the basket and they're rated as top quality.
11:44Well, we've got salt now, salt and pepper.
11:46A salt comes in endlessly beguiling packages of marketing triumph,
11:52I sometimes think, and the purity or the special nuances of flavour
11:56of a particular sea salt.
11:58But I think the same thing should happen to pepper.
12:01And certainly, from talking to Jerome,
12:03I think they would welcome the price of pepper to go up
12:06to be commensurate with that of salt.
12:09Jerome took me to one of his favourite restaurants
12:14where they use ground campot pepper mixed with fresh lime juice,
12:18salt and a bit of sugar as a dipping sauce
12:21for their famous dish, loklak.
12:24Here, Viet, our macho chef, has marinated strips of beef
12:28in a mixture of sugar, oyster sauce, tomato puree, chilli, garlic, lime,
12:33a chicken stock cube and the ever-present MSG, of course,
12:38before flash-frying it over intense flames.
12:41This is a really tasty dish and a first for me.
12:45Marinating the meat like this makes it incredibly succulent
12:48and intensifies the flavour,
12:50and a dish I'm definitely going to make at home.
12:53As with many dishes in this part of South East Asia,
12:57it's never complete without the ubiquitous fried egg.
13:03It's exquisite.
13:05Plain and simple.
13:06No big secret.
13:08Salt, pepper, campot pepper.
13:11Doesn't work with any pepper.
13:12Absolutely not.
13:13Campot pepper and lime, and fresh lime juice,
13:17and that just gives you a great little taste to your food.
13:20Do you love Cambodian food?
13:21I mean, do you miss French food at all?
13:23Obviously, being French, French food is something that I miss.
13:28The words like cassoulet, confit quad, the canard,
13:31and that's words from the past that I miss a little bit.
13:35Well, I'm happy.
13:36I mean, I love cassoulet, but just at the moment...
13:39That would do it.
13:41This is for me.
13:42No dish in South East Asia is complete for me without fish sauce,
13:46apart from puddings, that is.
13:48This factory in Campot has been making fish sauce for 14 years.
13:52Although it's supposedly buried in the midst of time,
13:55I strongly suspect that fish sauce was invented by the Chinese,
13:59as were most things of a culinary nature, including even pasta.
14:03I've always wanted to see how they make fish sauce.
14:06It's a bit apprehensive,
14:07because I thought it was going to absolutely stink.
14:10But it doesn't.
14:11It's a bit strong, but that's all.
14:14It looks a bit like a winery.
14:16I mean, there's all the wooden vats.
14:18And actually, how they make it is very similar to making wine.
14:22They just put loads of anchovies in the vat with salt
14:26and then press it like wine, with stones in this case,
14:29rather than a hydraulic press.
14:31And I think it's probably the most important food in Cambodia.
14:36It's called duck tray, by the way, next only to rice.
14:39And the reason for that is that a lot of people in Cambodia
14:42haven't got a lot of money, so they tend to cook rice.
14:45And this is the only form of protein.
14:47They put vegetables, fish sauce in the rice,
14:50and they've got a perfectly balanced dish.
14:53Wherever my troubles take me,
14:55I'm going to pick up recipes which everyone can cook at home,
14:59with ingredients found in any local supermarket.
15:02Well, this cured beef salad would not be what it is
15:05without fish sauce.
15:07I love these salads.
15:08In fact, I've got far too many in the programmes.
15:11They normally come with green mango, green papaya.
15:14In this case, it's beef and bean sprouts.
15:17But they all have fish sauce in it.
15:19That is the sort of thing that binds them all together.
15:22But then, of course, you've got to have lime juice,
15:24you've got to have chilli, you've got to have basil,
15:26all those lovely flavours.
15:28This is a really refreshing salad,
15:31and it's the juice of fresh limes that give it a zing.
15:34Now, some finely chopped lemongrass,
15:36making sure you've got rid of the tough outer leaves.
15:40Next, the all-important fish sauce.
15:43I couldn't get the Cambodian one back at home,
15:45so I'm using the Thai version.
15:47But in my view, the Cambodian one was more subtle.
15:51Now, this is really important, shrimp paste.
15:54It smells quite repugnant, but tastes wonderful,
15:58mixed together with fish sauce and a drop of water.
16:01In fact, I think there's a good marketing opportunity here
16:04to sell Cambodian fish sauce.
16:06Then, palm sugar with a lovely fudgy taste,
16:09and the best ones have a flavour of smoke, too.
16:12Then, shallots and bean sprouts,
16:15along with chopped peanuts and fresh chopped chilli,
16:18for some who like it really hot, like me.
16:21I sometimes get criticised for using too much chilli,
16:24but it's essential in this salad.
16:27Next, the leaves are fresh mint and basil.
16:30You can use coriander, too.
16:32All that is coarsely chopped.
16:34It's a great dish for summer, with a really cold beer,
16:38or, in these squeaky clean times, a non-alcoholic beverage.
16:42Finally, the whole lot is covered with a fragrant dressing.
16:47One of the things I've learnt about all these salads is, really,
16:50you shouldn't make them until they're ordered,
16:52certainly in a restaurant,
16:53because they start to lose their crunch and their fragrance
16:56so quickly afterwards,
16:58so it's just make it, serve it, eat it.
17:00I think these dishes are the best way in the world to go on a diet.
17:06They're so healthy.
17:08I mean, there's plenty of protein in that beef there,
17:10but there's loads of vegetables.
17:12You'd have your fruit and veg requirement on a daily basis
17:16every time you ate one of these salads.
17:18I just love them.
17:26Stefan, my new-found friend from the hotel I was staying at,
17:29told me that no trip to Kep would be complete
17:32without tasting its famous fresh crabs.
17:35So, early one morning, he took me out with some local fishermen
17:38who live on an island nearly five miles off the coast.
17:42It seems very good fishing for crab.
17:44I mean, how much are they getting a day in weight, do you think?
17:48It's good business when the season is good.
17:51For one kilo of crab, you can get $5.
17:54You know, it's the selling price.
17:57That sounds good money.
17:58And how much would they catch in a day?
18:00I think today we get already around 10 kilos,
18:03every day 10, 15 kilos, and it's a good income.
18:06And what's the sort of national monthly income, sort of, for everybody?
18:10It's very low, you know, it's around $50 a month.
18:13That's an average salary.
18:15So, really, they're not too badly off, then, in that case.
18:19I mean, if they're getting 15 kilos a day...
18:21Yeah, 15 or more, that's a good day.
18:24They got minimal revenue.
18:27The seller makes more money, more profit than them.
18:31What, you mean the middlemen and the...?
18:33Well, was it ever thus? It's the same at home.
18:37I think so.
18:38The prime producers, the farmers, the fishermen, they never get the money.
18:41In all the country.
18:42They get a lot of work, but not so much money.
18:44I actually find going on fishing trips making these films
18:48probably the best time.
18:50There's something very optimistic about fishermen.
18:52They're hard-working and cheerful types.
18:55And these are the crabs.
18:57It's a blue swimmer.
18:58As you can see, they've got swimming fins on the back there.
19:01Notice these rubber bands.
19:02That's because they're, um...
19:04They've tied up because they're really vicious little critters.
19:07Both, they nip you, but they also nip each other.
19:09But these are the best crabs possible for any type of chilli crab.
19:13And particularly here, they have this pepper crab with green peppercorns
19:18and really quite fiery stir-fry sauce to go with it.
19:23Lovely.
19:24And it's really nice eating these crabs.
19:26They've got quite sort of soft shells.
19:28You can chop them up and stir-fry them
19:31and then sit there drinking a glass or two of Anka beer
19:35and contemplating the world going by
19:38and thinking, what a great thing a crab is.
19:44This is Rabbit Island,
19:46famous for its crab dish made with campot pepper.
19:49Here it's cooked by Yi Meng,
19:51simply known as Grandma to the locals.
19:53She takes great delight in bullying anyone not adept at removing
19:58every sweet morsel of flesh from these tasty crabs.
20:04She stir-fried them in oiled garlic and fish sauce,
20:07really simple because they're such good flavour.
20:10I don't know why they call the island Rabbit Island.
20:12I didn't see any rabbits, lots of crabs and a few chickens too.
20:17There's an old Cambodian saying.
20:21Actually, David's just made it up.
20:23The chicken that gets too near the pot very often ends up in it.
20:27Once the crab is cooked,
20:30she adds loads of young green peppercorns
20:32which have been preserved in vinegar.
20:34Seems to be an awful lot of pepper she's putting in there.
20:37Yeah.
20:38It's very healthy.
20:39They use it as a vegetable.
20:40It's not only a spicy.
20:42It's something you eat.
20:44Crab and peppercorns combined
20:48bring together the fruits of the land and sea in delicious harmony.
20:52Now, Yi Meng adds some generous dashes of soy and oyster sauce.
20:57Cambodian food isn't always spicy.
21:00This time, there wasn't a chilli in sight.
21:02And being away from the mainland,
21:04they don't use many ingredients.
21:06All they need are the delicate flavours and aromas
21:09of the crabs and the peppers.
21:11It's worth coming all the way across the world for that.
21:22That looks nice.
21:23Very nice.
21:24Bon appΓ©tit.
21:31Bon appΓ©tit.
21:36So good.
21:37It's so sweet and so succulent.
21:40She doesn't approve if you leave anything.
21:43But I won't.
21:44She will check it out before we leave.
21:46She will check our dish.
21:47And will check the dish and make sure we've eaten everything.
21:50No flesh still in the dish.
21:54Stephen, I'm overwhelmed with the fragrance and freshness of this Cambodian food.
22:00Just tell me about Cambodian food.
22:02What it means to you.
22:03Cambodian food, you know, they benefit from one of the best landscapes, soil and climate of all Asia.
22:11But also they used to, they managed to keep the influence of Indian, of Chinese and of Westerners.
22:17Then it's a country where you can eat the best curry Indian and the great Chinese food with a piece of French bread on the same table.
22:25So it is a sort of meeting of all the culinary roads of Asia, really?
22:29It's a long-term meeting.
22:31It's 1,500 years that different civilisations are occupying Cambodia.
22:37Then they keep the best.
22:38I was particularly drawn by these salt pans just outside Kampot.
22:48It was that I was looking at some scene in medieval Europe.
22:52Maybe the stuff of a Bruegel painting where the peasants stooped under the weight of the salt they were carrying.
22:58Salt making is older than recorded history and they need lots of it in Cambodia for fish source and the preservation of fish.
23:08Driving through these villages and fields, I'm sort of reminded of when I was young at school, at my first boarding school,
23:17going into the school library and seeing those old sepia pictures of India and places like Cambodia
23:25with sort of chaps striding around in pith helmets and tropical uniform but everywhere around were the peasants.
23:32Because it just looks so poor around here.
23:36I sort of feel a little bit sort of guilty because everywhere I look is interesting, I have to admit.
23:42But you sort of feel that you're sort of going back in time to such an extent.
23:47And it really drives home the effect of the Khmer Rouge and the stopping of time in this country.
23:55I've come to Kompong Klang village, one of the largest settlements on the shores of the Tonle Sap,
24:03a huge freshwater lake in the centre of Cambodia.
24:07Around 20,000 people live here now in houses built on impressively high stilts
24:14and the lake provides their main source of food.
24:17It seems almost unnecessary to say that I'm totally overwhelmed by what I'm looking at here.
24:25Sort of rather pathetically thinking it's like a Spielberg movie, Indiana Jones, of course.
24:31Because everywhere you look, everything's old. It could be 200 years ago.
24:36There's very little evidence of modern times, apart, of course, from the odd moped.
24:41Well, this time of year, it's the dry season and they're salting fish, smoking it and laying out in the sun to dry.
24:49But during the wet season, there's so much water here that it comes up to the floorboards
24:54and there's kids splashing around and swimming.
24:57And the only way to go shopping is by boat.
25:00I get an impression here that the people seem to be pretty contented with their lot.
25:06There's a saying around here, mean trek, mean trey, where there is water, there's fish.
25:13I was invited to lunch by my interpreter, Sopal, to his aunt's house.
25:18Yeah, this is my aunt.
25:21How do you do?
25:22She's very nice to me.
25:24So she's one of the chiefs for the cookers because she's good at cooking.
25:29She bought the smoked fish and is going to make it with the salad.
25:34They call it salad with smoked fish.
25:37And as a base for that salad, she uses shredded mango.
25:41As a young girl, Sopal's aunt, called Bo Young, grew up in a farming family in the rice fields,
25:47but she was forced by the Khmer Rouge to marry a fisherman.
25:51She has lived here in Kampong Klang ever since.
25:54She's making a dish called chinchun, fish in a ginger sauce.
25:59They call this fish gurami, which looks pretty scary with its sharp, spiky fins,
26:05which she's removed along with the scales.
26:07She'll add some spring onions later, when the dish is cooked.
26:11Next, on top of some chopped garlic, she adds strips of ginger,
26:15which she cooks until they soften, because that's going to be the predominant taste here.
26:20And then a dessert spoon of palm sugar.
26:23To finish the dish, she adds some fish sauce,
26:26and another aunt prepares thinly sliced tomatoes to decorate the dish.
26:31I'd be really tempted to make this dish at home with a sea fish like bream.
26:36Maybe it would even work well with trout.
26:39It's good fish. Lovely.
26:43There is a fish, the fisherman kite from the forest, you know.
26:48I mean, I'm not used to eating river fish, and it just tastes...
26:52You can taste the river water in it, but it's not like some farm fish tastes really pondy.
26:57This is really lovely.
26:59It's natural fish, actually. That is good protein.
27:02Also, would you tell your aunt, I really like this dish?
27:06Of course. She's a very good cook.
27:07Yeah, I will tell them about this.
27:13This salad is a great recipe for smoked fish and sums up the area really well.
27:20The dish is predominantly sweet and sour, and so to make her salad,
27:25Bo Young combines layers of smoked fish and shredded mango
27:29with a mixture of chopped shallots, peanuts and sugar.
27:33I've tried it with smoked mackerel and sprats, and it works really well.
27:44Over a million people rely on fishing around the lake.
27:48It's the Mekong River, with waters from the Himalayas that feed it.
27:52But it's the rainy season that's the secret to the whole regeneration of the area,
27:57bringing a wealth of young fish that feed off the vegetation
28:01once the lake and the surrounding countryside is flooded.
28:05This place is also famous for its freshwater shrimps.
28:09This is a freshwater jewel in the heart of Cambodia.
28:13But the future doesn't look terribly bright.
28:16What I'm seeing, I really find very... The whole thing works very well.
28:21But I heard this story about dams further up the Mekong River.
28:26Is that right? Yeah, because in 1990...
28:28In 1993, they planned to build 20 dams,
28:32and so far they have finished the big dam, the main dam, they have finished.
28:38So, with the water of Mekong, we reduce the flow of the water flowing to the lake in a wet season.
28:46So if a lot of that supply is cut off, what happens to all the fish and the prawns?
28:51If less water, then biodiversity like fish, snakes and also streams
28:57will decrease as well in the future if China completes the dams.
29:01So, presumably, all these villages would suffer, then?
29:05Yeah, we will suffer from that.
29:07Yet again, it's Cambodia, a small country, being pressured by...
29:10Small country, being pressured by politics and economics and China.
29:14And that is very, very concerned and a problem.
29:20But we have no voice for that.
29:22One of the great symbols of my journey in South East Asia will be, I suspect, the coconut.
29:36Marco Polo said he preferred coconut milk to wine.
29:40I wouldn't go as far as that, but I recall a saying from the South Pacific which said,
29:45A man who plants a coconut, plants food and drink, vessels and clothing,
29:51a home for his family and a heritage for his children.
29:56And coconut is also the foundation of this lovely dish made predominantly with pork and pineapple.
30:02First of all, I chopped some shallots and galangal,
30:05which I've recently seen in supermarkets at home as well as Asian delis.
30:10Well, this is fresh turmeric, and I must say it's a bit of a revelation to me.
30:15I mean, I'm just used to using the powdered stuff, but it's so wonderfully fragrant.
30:19And it's the main constituent of the Cambodian curry paste called krung,
30:24the other being lemongrass.
30:26And one of the things I've really learned about my journey through the Far East
30:30is that these pastes are so important.
30:33I mean, you've got krung in Cambodia, you've got various different pastes in Thailand
30:37like musselman paste for musselman curry, red curry paste, green curry, Thai curry paste.
30:43In Indonesia, you've got baza gadeh, the basic curry paste they use everywhere.
30:48And in Malaysia, such things as laxa paste. They're all different.
30:52The trouble with turmeric, of course, is that you walk around for days with yellow fingers.
30:57It looks like you're a chain smoker.
31:00So all this lemongrass, lime zest, kaffir lime leaves, chilli, galangal and turmeric
31:06all go into my trusty food processor along with a drop of water, some salt
31:11and, of course, the all-important shrimp paste.
31:14In Cambodia, they'd use a mortar and pestle,
31:17but that would take a long time to pound down into a paste.
31:20And this, after all, we are in the West, is the quick way of going about things.
31:25Oh, well, plainly taking your time is the best thing,
31:32and cooking should never be rushed.
31:35Well, I have to admit I've made a bit of a mistake,
31:38apart from burning out my grinder.
31:40I've also cut the lemongrass too long and it's really woody.
31:44Well, the reason I did that was because in Cambodia they use the whole thing,
31:47but it's not as dry, I think.
31:49But we all live and learn, even me.
31:52Now I grate the fresh coconut, which is so important in this dish.
31:57It gives a lovely, subtle background flavour and thickens the sauce.
32:03Fry off the pork, which is cubed leg meat and very lean.
32:07Interestingly, people don't like the idea of pork stews,
32:11but when you come to pork curries, anything with lots of spice in it,
32:15it's a whole different matter.
32:17And they use pork a lot in South East Asia.
32:20I think the point is that because there is so much of aromatic flavour going with it,
32:26and it works a treat.
32:29But also, anything sharp works really well with pork,
32:33so the fact that there's lots of pineapple in this makes it very satisfying.
32:38And I'm using grated coconut to thicken the curry at the end.
32:43The secret to all this cooking in this part of the world is the curry paste.
32:48It transfers any cut of meat or fish into something exotic.
32:53I must say I'm very happy about this, because I was a bit worried about that lemongrass,
32:57that it hadn't sort of been pulverised enough in the mortar and pestle.
33:02But I think it looks quite rugged.
33:04It looks quite sort of, dare I say it, sort of blokey.
33:07You know?
33:08I don't like things too sort of neat and tidy.
33:12So, after an hour, the pork should be nice and tender.
33:17That looks extremely nice and it's smelling wonderful.
33:21I'm now going to add the grated coconut.
33:24You don't need a lot of it, but as I said earlier,
33:27you can see how it binds the dish together, and it tastes so good.
33:31Well, these are tiny aubergines, but they're still quite unusual in the UK.
33:36But I have to say, I've got these in St Austell, of all places,
33:40so, I mean, things are changing.
33:42They're very good institutes, and also the little tiny ones,
33:45you might have seen them, they're called pea aubergines,
33:48partly because they're so small, and also they're a lot firmer
33:50than normal aubergines, so I'm just going to put them in the curry,
33:54and they'll be done in about ten minutes.
33:57These little aubergines are really nutty,
33:59and they stay firm in contrast to the pineapple,
34:02which softens and gives so much sweetness to the dish.
34:05I suppose you could use tins of it, but they're so easy to buy fresh,
34:09and they make the kitchen smell so good.
34:12And now coconut milk.
34:15People often ask me, what's the difference in Cambodian food?
34:18What makes it so special?
34:20And this dish, I think, says it all.
34:22I mean, it's incredibly fragrant.
34:24It's really rich in turmeric.
34:26The colour of that yellow colour is lovely.
34:28Actually, it's not particularly hot,
34:30and that is a very typical characteristic of Cambodian food.
34:34They always serve lots of chilli, of course,
34:37but the dishes themselves are not searingly hot.
34:40But it's very fragrant, and I think that's what it...
34:42If you compare this with something like a sort of curry from northern India,
34:46this is just light and sort of flowery.
34:49And the other thing, of course, are the other ingredients,
34:51the coconut, those little aubergines, and the pineapple.
34:55And I'm gonna finish off with some tamarind and fish sauce and palm sugar.
34:59Everything, actually, that grows in Cambodia.
35:10Take a little bit more.
35:11It's a very concentrated fish sauce.
35:13I don't need to put much more in, probably about another teaspoon.
35:16And now for some palm sugar.
35:18Always get that combination of sweet and sour in both Thai, Vietnamese,
35:24and Cambodian cooking.
35:26Only about a couple of teaspoons, maybe a bit more.
35:29I'm just guessing it.
35:31The tamarind has an acid flavour,
35:33which adds so much fresh tartness to the dish.
35:36I'm using the sieved pulp without the seeds.
35:39It's such an important part of the cooking in the Far East.
35:43One final taste.
35:45I'm just gonna put some basil in after this, but...
35:49It's heaven.
35:50And it's just so simple, this sort of food,
35:52because it's just a combination of the fish sauce,
35:55the tamarind, and the sugar.
35:57It's easy.
35:58It's just like...
35:59That's what's so nice about South East Asian food.
36:02It's so easily put together.
36:04Anyway, let's get the basil in there now, and we're done.
36:07All that's left now is to allow these fresh leaves to wilt into the dish.
36:15There's an old saying that you should always tear basil and never cut it.
36:19I think it's because steel blackens the cut edges.
36:22I'm using holy basil here.
36:24With its incense-like smell,
36:26many people consider it to have religious significance.
36:30Finally, because it's a mildly spiced and fruity curry,
36:34I add a few little red jewels of finely chopped chilli,
36:38and that's it.
36:41Now, the man on the left is my interpreter and guide,
36:44the magnificent Mr Watty.
36:46Mr Watty, travelling around Cambodia,
36:49like it or not, come to lots of evidence of the Khmer Rouge.
36:53I know you suffered from them during the regime.
36:57What was it like?
36:58Living under the Khmer Rouge time from 1979,
37:0265 until 1979,
37:04it looks like we were living in the hell.
37:07Three years, eight months and 20 days,
37:10the Khmer Rouge just wanted to change the Khmer society into a quar.
37:16No poor, no rich, no religion, no currency.
37:22No market, nothing.
37:25People have to walk, have to work on the rice fields
37:29from very early morning till late at the night time.
37:33And this Khmer Rouge regime
37:37had led Cambodian people
37:40to the great killing fields throughout the country.
37:44I personally, myself,
37:47have suffered from the Khmer Rouge punishment
37:49and the Khmer Rouge torture.
37:51As you can see,
37:52my eye has been hit by the Khmer Rouge soldier
37:56with a branch of the tree
37:58and the thorn prick into my eye
38:00and my head has been hit with the axe
38:03and it just opened like this.
38:05Gosh.
38:06And my finger has been placed on the wood
38:08and then they hit like this.
38:09Oh.
38:10But because I try very hard to struggle again
38:14with the traumas, nightmares,
38:17and finally I can survive until now.
38:19After that, I felt if I had any problems and worries,
38:23they would pale into insignificance
38:26compared to what Mr Watty has suffered.
38:29The main reason that people come to Cambodia
38:33and actually the key to the future
38:35of the region's financial security
38:37is Angkor Wat.
38:47It's one of the few places I've been to
38:49that's much, much more splendid than I'd imagined.
38:52So, actually, Cambodia and Simrit Angkor
38:56was the glorious ancient capital.
38:59Just interesting, though, though,
39:01I mean, the Khmer Rouge,
39:02they flattened virtually everything in Cambodia.
39:04Why didn't they flatten Angkor Wat?
39:06A bit like the Taliban in Afghanistan.
39:08Yes, that's the... Your question is right.
39:11And, like, you understand,
39:12Khmer Rouge did just care for nothing.
39:14Most of the time you can see Khmer Rouge
39:17destroy many Buddhist monasteries, pagodas,
39:20and the temple, the last medieval temple,
39:23and they collected the rock for the road construction.
39:27But it is very good,
39:29even though the Khmer Rouge were very stupid,
39:31but they still maintain Angkor Wat very better
39:33because Angkor Wat was the symbol of the country.
39:36No Angkor Wat, no Cambodia.
39:39This is the Bayon Temple,
39:42and practically every inch has a fresco
39:45depicting historical scenes of the Khmer Empire
39:48that were carved nearly a thousand years ago
39:50as a representation of the home of the gods.
39:53And, actually, the vast relief from this section
39:56is different from the Angkor Wat.
39:58Yeah.
39:59You can see most of the relief from the Angkor Wat
40:01just about the religion.
40:02But this one's about the real lives of the people,
40:04and the real episodes that were taking place
40:06from the 12th century.
40:07So something related to the cooking.
40:09So the first thing you can see,
40:11like a man, he is blowing the fire.
40:14You see the rice stove and the rice pot made of clay.
40:17It looks very similar to the same thing now.
40:19Yes.
40:20He is blowing the fire to cook the food.
40:22And this man, he used the long stick
40:24to harvest the fruit from the tree,
40:26and then he passes the fruit to his vine behind here.
40:29Yeah.
40:30Yes.
40:31So the real lives of the people from the 12th century.
40:33From here, you can see they are cooking.
40:34They are grilling the meat on the stick.
40:36You can see.
40:37What, are those skewers of meat?
40:39Yes, yes, here.
40:40And here?
40:41Yeah, they are drinking wine with the straw.
40:44You can see the straw here, into the mouth here.
40:46Yeah.
40:47Yes.
40:50Right outside these temples,
40:52skewered meat was being sold to the tourists.
40:55Nearly a thousand years later,
40:57kebabs, as we call them, are alive and well in Cambodia.
41:01Most tourists end their trip to the temples with a display of traditional Khmer dancing in some vast restaurant.
41:14I found it very graceful and elegant.
41:17But as I understand it, one of the main attractions is to be photographed with these attractive dancers on the stage.
41:24I couldn't help thinking at the time, what on earth must these beautiful dancers be thinking as this wave of tourists invade their stage?
41:38They stand regal and proud, while people take turns in having their photo taken beside them.
41:45But it'd be too easy to dismiss this scene as demeaning.
41:49Tourism is the key to the revival of the country.
41:52Early the next morning, I went to Siem Reap Market to see a baguette factory,
41:57a culinary link with Cambodia's past, when the French ruled here.
42:02I was invited by Johannes Riviere, a young French chef, who has lived here for some time.
42:07I think he was rather proud of the fact that French imperialism still lives on.
42:13I was reminded watching these incredibly skilful chaps do this.
42:18Julia Child wrote a book in the 70s called Mastering the Art of French Cooking,
42:24in which she described how to roll out a baguette.
42:28I seem to remember it taking about four pages.
42:31These guys are doing what took four pages in about four seconds.
42:36I love watching things like that.
42:38The dough is baked for about 20 minutes in this baker's oven.
42:44They use lots of steam to develop the crusts, just like in France.
42:48But the difference here is that the bread is rather sweet.
42:51It's looked upon more as a cake, but it did seem particularly scrumptious,
42:56as a barbecued beef sandwich back at the temples,
43:00with lots of sweet chilli sauce and a green papaya salad.
43:05Can we get one?
43:06Yeah, something.
43:08Help yourself.
43:10A bit hot.
43:11Yeah, it's...
43:12So, the French are long gone, Giannis.
43:15Why do you think the baguettes remain?
43:18Baguettes are one of the few things that French have really left in Cambodia.
43:25It's interesting because it's considered as a cake,
43:28but it's something you can find anywhere in the countryside.
43:30You see a motorbike really in the middle of nowhere,
43:34motorbike coming through with just a stack of baguettes and people stopping.
43:38And Cambodians eat that actually with banana, with ice cream,
43:42not really with salty food.
43:44But the technique is perfect, isn't it?
43:47Yeah, it's really industrial almost, I think.
43:49It's quite interesting to see.
43:59I don't know half these fruit, Giannis.
44:01That looks like a plum, is it?
44:03That's actually a type of mango.
44:05It's extremely seasonal, so you came at the right time for that.
44:10Can we try one?
44:11Yeah, we'll try one.
44:13I mean, this is what's so nice about these sort of markets.
44:16Half the things you see here, to me, I don't know what they are.
44:20Have a try.
44:21Oh, I see, yeah.
44:22That's lovely.
44:23Cut it the skin, and if you cut it in half...
44:26Oh, look at that!
44:28Wow!
44:29It's extremely easy to make a nice decoration on the plate.
44:32That's rambutan.
44:33That's rambutan.
44:34Rambutan.
44:35Rambutans.
44:36What are those there?
44:37Those are longan.
44:38Longan.
44:39It's a white flesh with a big stone in the middle.
44:41It tastes almost like chemical.
44:43What's that?
44:44It's not yet the season.
44:45Those are dragon fruit.
44:46Dragon fruit.
44:47You want to have a try?
44:48Yeah, yeah.
44:49Some...
44:51That looks very exotic.
44:53It's very Chinese-y.
44:54Looks like sort of...
44:55It's very Chinese-y and cheesy.
44:56And the fish have a try.
44:57Don't eat the skin.
44:58No.
44:59It's not very tasty.
45:00It's just very refreshing.
45:01Like all cactus fruit.
45:02Yeah, yeah.
45:03That's true.
45:04It's a bit bland, I think.
45:05Yeah.
45:06The dragon fruit.
45:07A triumph of style over content.
45:08Well, I'm getting a bit addicted to these.
45:10They're like mini-mangos.
45:11You know, in football, they send out talent scouts all over the world to find new, young players.
45:18I wonder if supermarkets do the same.
45:20Whether they've got people coming out to you.
45:22They're like mini-mangos.
45:23You know, in football, they send out talent scouts all over the world to find new, young players.
45:30I wonder if supermarkets do the same.
45:33Whether they've got people coming out to these sort of markets and finding things like this.
45:38And going out off into the fields and bringing them back.
45:41Because I can tell you, if I was one of those people, this is what I'd be bringing back to our supermarkets.
45:46Because I know I've never seen them in England.
45:57Samuel Johnson said,
45:58When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.
46:02I think that could easily be applied to chefs who get bored with markets.
46:08I know I tend to go on a bit about food in markets.
46:11But I don't believe that looking at these pictures, you could fail to see why.
46:16I mean, this is just so exciting.
46:18Other people may pass a market like this by.
46:21But not me, as a cook.
46:23I just find it so, so inspirational.
46:27And I've got this...
46:28Well, I've just been talking to this chef, Johannes, who used to cook in big hotels in Sienry.
46:34He said he used to come down here every day, not to buy the vegetables,
46:39but just to get brilliant ideas to compose his menus.
46:45This is a village that prides itself in making one of the prime ingredients of Cambodian food.
46:50Something which has always been a mystery to me, the rice noodle.
46:54David, the director's just rather unkindly suggested that if you don't want to take as long as this to grind the rice,
47:01get yourself a machine, which of course is saying this is a very old-fashioned way of doing something.
47:08And, of course, that went through my mind.
47:11But what's also going through in my mind is here we've got a family doing something very much together,
47:17obviously getting on with each other.
47:19And you have to say, who's the happiest?
47:22Somebody with a machine doing this thing a tenth of the time,
47:27or all this group and all the chat that's going on.
47:30And as she's just been pushing this machine,
47:32she's been making little sort of cooey noises to the baby here.
47:36It's just very, very attractive.
47:48They make it look so easy, right?
47:50It's not.
47:54Try to get into the groove.
47:55It's trying to keep it smooth, really.
47:58That's the thing.
48:02Can I stop now, Dave?
48:03It's really good fun, actually.
48:08What happens then is that the rice is pounded into a form of dough.
48:13It reminds me of white latex rubber.
48:15Then it's put into this cradle and boiled in water for 30 minutes or so.
48:20Like so many things, this was a Chinese invention developed thousands of years ago.
48:25And it always surprises me about the ingenuity of man and how he came up with such an idea.
48:32But the whole point of all this rather laborious process is the fact that rice has no gluten content.
48:38And therefore, to make it elastic, you have to first cook it and then pummel it to turn into noodles.
48:45Otherwise, if you just, as you think, if you just roll up a rice bowl, a rice bowl and drop it into boiling water, it'll just disperse.
48:55I'm told the Cambodians feel that nobody would be interested in watching something like this, like tourists.
49:00But I think they're wrong. I just find it fascinating.
49:03And the fact this has been going on since the 12th century, cooking and producing rice like this and still is happening in this way, I think it's incredible.
49:13The dough is now put into a wooden tube and under enormous pressure is forced down through a series of holes, a bit like a mincer, really.
49:25I couldn't stop myself thinking about the Flintstones while watching this.
49:30The noodles are then cooked for a few seconds only to set them and then scooped out and left to dry.
49:37Before this, I've only eaten them in their dry state, but fresh from the cauldron, they're brilliant in a soup.
49:42Made with aromatic herbs, chilies and perhaps a few prawns.
49:48The rice noodle is the bread and potatoes of Cambodia in my book.
49:55Johannes, my French chef friend, is involved in a commendable project in Siem Reap.
50:01It's called the Salabai Cookery School and it teaches disadvantaged youngsters the rudiments of cookery and the whole bang shoot of running a restaurant.
50:09And the other really good part of it is, it's open for lunch every day and the food's really good.
50:15Some of the students are recruited directly by the school, so they come from poor environment, from the countryside, from the rice field.
50:26Other students are placed by other organisations who are dealing with more of social issues like prostitution, trafficking, women that have been beaten by their husband.
50:40So it really depends actually.
50:44So some of them, if they weren't at the hotel school, would have a pretty grim future then?
50:49Probably. But what's important, I think, is not where do they come from, is that in Cambodia the corruption is such that the only way for Cambodian to get any benefit from the tourism industry is to work in tourism industry.
51:04And that's why Salabai is really helping the community. It's because it gives the opportunity to Cambodian to change their life by participating in the tourism industry.
51:14The journey this little country has been on in recent years has been one of struggle, coming back from a nightmare and readjusting itself into the modern world.
51:24It's got a long way to go, but I felt a distinct note of optimism in the air.
51:29But it's time to continue my odyssey away down the mighty Mekong River towards the border with Vietnam.
51:36I'm quite pleased because for the next few days I'm not being bounced around in a minibus, but almost harking back to that wonderful time I had on a barge in southern France some years ago.
51:48Hello. It's a bit steep. Hello, Rick. Benoit. Nice to meet you. Very nice to meet you.
52:00Welcome on board. Cheers. Let me introduce Mr Tong, who is our captain. Mr Tong, very nice to meet you.
52:05And I'm my wife, who is also the person who organised all the services on board. Thank you.
52:12And last but not least, Mr Oot, who is our chef. Most important. Most important.
52:35I don't know if it's just me, but the start of a journey on a boat anywhere is an adventure,
52:41and I feel like I'm beginning a new journey, even though I've been two or three days in Phnom Penh.
52:48But I must say, it's so pleasurable to get away from that.
52:51It was so interesting, but it's so bustly and so much tuk-tuk, so much motorbike, so much smog.
52:58You see all the guys wearing these masks because it gets in your chest.
53:03The breeze here is wonderful.
53:06And now I'm just looking across at the banks, and there's all kinds of things going on in the banks.
53:11And we're on our way to another country, to Vietnam, down to the Mekong Delta,
53:16and to see all the fishing there. I mean, it's just so exciting. It's so exotic.
53:20I've just been in my cabin. It's cool. And it smells of ginger and lemongrass.
53:26And it's just... It's such a beautiful contrast to Phnom Penh and that bustly city.
53:33I'm told that the tradition for painting eyes on the front of boats was to scare away the crocodiles,
53:49of which, before the passing of time, there were many.
53:53But Benoit told me the crocs were all eaten long ago, but the eyes live on.
53:58It's really nice the way people all over the world, on rivers or anywhere on boats, wave to each other.
54:05It's something about communication.
54:08And I think it's really, on boats, you just generally feel happy. I know I do.
54:13I was just thinking, three years ago, we made a series going down the canals of southwestern France in a barge.
54:21And we were on that barge for about eight weeks.
54:24And that just sense of sort of serenity and peace.
54:27And you just slip past villages and churches and fields of sunflowers and vineyards.
54:35And it's just the most wonderful feeling of life going on,
54:40that you're sitting in this sort of really calm way.
54:43But it's the same here. It's different.
54:46But I was also thinking that these villages that we're passing,
54:50with all that lovely sound of laughing children coming over the water,
54:54we're not intruding on them. We're just passing.
54:58Now, if we'd been in a car and we'd arrived in their village or, you know, with all the crew,
55:04we would have been intruding, we would interrupt their life.
55:09But here we're seeing them living their life just in an easy way and just observing.
55:14And it's just adding to my sense of serenity.
55:23It didn't take long to reach the Vietnamese border,
55:25which is marked by a South Vietnamese gunship left over from the war.
55:30While Benoit and his wife called in for the paperwork to be checked,
55:34Mr Oot, the chef, made lunch with freshwater prawns and ripe mango,
55:39a brilliant combination.
55:49Watching him cut up that mango,
55:50there's so many different ideas about how to cut up a mango.
55:54It is difficult because the stone in the middle is quite an odd shape.
55:58It's really hard to get nice little squares as Oot just has.
56:02But I know that he's working with great delicacy,
56:05but cutting away from himself,
56:07and that actually is quite difficult for us Western chefs to master.
56:11I was thinking all the time he was going to cut his fingers,
56:13but of course he wasn't.
56:17The prawns are tossed into fried onions and garlic
56:20and almost immediately turn pink.
56:23These are river prawns, and everyone I know
56:26is worried about the proliferation of prawn farms
56:29along the banks of the Mekong.
56:31But they're a good source of protein,
56:33and in a heavily populated country, I suppose it's a necessity.
56:37I guess it's one of those things which we in the West
56:40can afford to be sceptical about.
56:42But over here, with nearly 90 million people to feed
56:46in a relatively small country, it's a different matter.
56:52Anyway, Mr Oot has seasoned the dish with salt, pepper and lime juice,
56:56and he thickens it with a spoonful of corn flour.
57:02And then in goes the mango.
57:04I love the combination of mango and prawns.
57:06The sight of this is making my mouth water,
57:09and I suspect it's making yours too.
57:12Ben Amor, the reason I've come to Vietnam above all
57:15is because I believe Vietnamese food is really healthy.
57:19It's very fresh and good for you, I suppose.
57:23Tell me about Vietnamese food.
57:25If you are a fish eater, if you're a vegetarian actually,
57:31you really can find a very large and very wide choice
57:36of any kind of food you crave for.
57:40But fish above all?
57:42Fish above all, yes.
57:44The Vietnamese are kind of family to fish.
57:47They are supposed to have been born from the same dragon and fairy
57:51who together had a hundred eggs,
57:53half of which rolled down into the sea and became the fish,
57:57and the other half of which rolled up.
57:59If you can believe that, into the mountain and became the Vietnamese.
58:03So they're part fish?
58:04They are part fish, yes.
58:05How interesting, because we are all descended from fish, actually,
58:08because we all came out of the sea.
58:10The sun is a reminiscence of the origin of life, yes.
58:13Maybe that's why I love it so much. Fish.
58:16I've only had one day on this old rice barge,
58:19and I can't wait for tomorrow,
58:21but now it's time for a cold beer or a non-alcoholic beverage.
58:29But now it's time for tomorrow.
58:32It's time for me to go for tomorrow,
58:33and this is the time for tomorrow.
58:35If you want to see me as a cold beer or a non-oh,
58:37you can do it.
58:38It's time for tomorrow.
58:40So I've just had one day on it.
58:42It is time for tomorrow,
58:43and it's time for tomorrow.
58:44If you're not getting out to sea,
58:45and this is time for tomorrow,
58:46it's time for tomorrow.
58:47I hope that you are part of the sun,
58:49and I hope that we can see you.
58:51If you want to see you,
58:52please be here.
58:53Can you please keep coming up?
58:54If you're kind of all.
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