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Mary at 90: A Lifetime of Cooking S01E06
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00:00They look perfect.
00:02Joined by wonderful old friends.
00:04Cheers!
00:05No, no, no, no.
00:06Oh!
00:07Come on, Barry.
00:08And special new ones.
00:10Delicious.
00:11I've never had a dame in the house before.
00:13Hello, sailor.
00:15We'll cook some of my classics.
00:18You're such a great teacher.
00:20Wow.
00:21I've never been this scared since I did my exams for horticulture.
00:25Update old favorites, chickpeas.
00:28What were chickpeas in the early part of when I was cooking?
00:31And, of course, share some delicious new recipes.
00:35Where on earth would I rather be right now?
00:38Oh, no, oh.
00:40Dribbled the custard now.
00:41No, no, it's all right.
00:42You mean to tell me I did this?
00:43You did that.
00:44Rejoicing in my ongoing passion for home cooking.
00:48You're such an inspiration.
00:55I so enjoy entertaining my dearest friends,
01:04like the dinner I threw for our 50th wedding anniversary.
01:09You took power, Jay.
01:12There's nothing I love more than a party,
01:15and I really enjoy helping people choose special dishes
01:20that you don't have to spend a long time in the kitchen preparing.
01:24Comedian Kyle Smith-Bino shares my passion for getting friends together over food.
01:32I love how it's more casual these days,
01:35but he's asked for my help with one important element.
01:39Seating plans, I can do the arrangements.
01:43I can do the drinks.
01:45Food, not so much.
01:49It seems Kyle has got all the ingredients for a great dinner party.
01:54All that's missing is the home cooked food.
01:56And I'm coming to the rescue.
02:02Hello, Kyle.
02:03Hello.
02:04How are you?
02:05I'm really well.
02:06Good.
02:07I've never had a dame in the house before,
02:08so I got the place cleaned up especially after last night's party.
02:11Oh, and you're all ready for another one?
02:14I'm always ready for another one.
02:15A light one.
02:16OK, come on then.
02:17Great.
02:18This is my comfort zone,
02:19because I've always enjoyed helping people throw dinner parties.
02:23Tell us what we're going to eat.
02:25As the main course, chicken in a nice cider and mushroom sauce,
02:29and the pudding is a meringue layer,
02:32which we've done before with fruit, and it's rather good.
02:35In the 1970s, dinner parties were very much part of life.
02:41Now, it's much more informal.
02:44You put the soup out before the guests come.
02:47When you're sitting people down, it's much easier.
02:49And you've got individual butter dishes as well, I noticed.
02:52If you give everybody their own butter,
02:54then they don't have to stretch and ask.
02:56Yeah.
02:57And it's very easy to use any up the next day for scrambled egg or something.
03:00Plan to the last detail as always.
03:06I'm so happy to be called upon to help new cooks like Kael.
03:11I've chosen dishes that I know he will be able to master.
03:15Like a modern way to serve canapes,
03:18crispy mushroom arancini,
03:21with a melt-in-the-middle dolciolata cheese.
03:24Then a classic tender beef main,
03:27served with a sumptuous bayonet sauce
03:30I learnt to make at college.
03:34My all-time favourite pudding when entertaining,
03:37the creme de la creme chocolate roulade.
03:40But as Kael is a nervous cook,
03:44we're starting with this 1980s favourite.
03:47Salmon with a delicious Parmesan crust.
03:50Such an easy crowd-pleaser.
03:56So don't you help your mum in the kitchen a bit?
03:58Um, no.
04:00She, that's, it's very much been her domain
04:02and she's always been like,
04:04get out of the kitchen.
04:06But I always do the tidying up.
04:07No matter how much I don't enjoy washing up.
04:10You're a good son.
04:11The sauce kicks off by boiling
04:13sliced chestnut mushrooms in white wine
04:16for one to two minutes.
04:18You take those out.
04:19Yep.
04:20I'll hold this steady.
04:21That's it.
04:22So a slotted spoon.
04:24Slotted spoon.
04:25You didn't even know what that spoon was, did you?
04:28No.
04:29For me, that's the one you take the spaghetti out with.
04:30Well done.
04:31Well, this isn't spaghetti.
04:33Let that bubble away to reduce the liquid
04:36to about two tablespoons.
04:38It's the base of the sauce.
04:40While that's happening,
04:42why don't you chop me some parsley?
04:44You do touring.
04:45Yes, that's right, yeah.
04:46Keeping everybody happy and joking and whatever.
04:49Yeah.
04:50So sometimes you must have to cook with...
04:53Well, that's the problem when you're on tour.
04:55You're in a different city every day.
04:56You're in a hotel room
04:57where you can't get access to a kitchen.
05:00But what you've got to do
05:01is just end up in a kebab shop usually.
05:03Is that your comfort food kebabs?
05:05No, but it's usually all that's open.
05:08I didn't realise how hard touring was.
05:11I thought it was going to be just like
05:12getting to see loads of the UK
05:14and get to try out different sausage rolls.
05:17So you hardly see the towns that you get to?
05:20No, yeah, yeah, very rarely.
05:23Add some rich double cream
05:25and bring it back to the boil
05:27until it reduces even further.
05:30And we're leaving it on a high heat
05:33and we're going to watch it
05:34and just give it an occasional stir
05:36and that'll make a wonderful sauce.
05:38You know, when I'm getting them
05:39with kebabs at midnight,
05:41it's all sauces.
05:43Burger sauce, ketchup, mayo, chilli mayo.
05:45Well, hopefully this one will make your list.
05:49The mushrooms go back in
05:51and it's ready to top the salmon fillets.
05:54These last two don't want to go in.
05:56Come on, lads.
05:57That's it.
05:58Great.
05:59Give it a stir.
06:00Mmm, the smell.
06:02It's good.
06:03It's beautiful.
06:04Not too complicated.
06:05No, it's not.
06:06It's almost fun.
06:07Almost fun.
06:08So if your mum was a fly on the wall now,
06:11what would she think of you?
06:13Er, she'd probably be saying,
06:15hurry up and get on with it.
06:17Oh, yeah, that's just about what I'm going to say.
06:19Yeah.
06:20Hurry up and get on with it.
06:21That's perfect.
06:22The wonderful crust couldn't be easier.
06:24Breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan,
06:27lemon zest, seasoning,
06:29and finally the parsley.
06:31Voila!
06:33And then we'll put some on the top
06:35as it comes out.
06:36I mean, I'm all about the presentation,
06:38so I'm very happy to make it look interesting.
06:39I can see that because you look pretty stylish.
06:41Why, thank you.
06:42Yeah, it's all right.
06:43You've got fruit all the way down your arm.
06:45Yeah.
06:48Simple as that.
06:49Simple as that.
06:50So when you're entertaining,
06:51would you do something like this?
06:53I only want easy things.
06:55Right.
06:56Easy things that taste really good.
06:58A little paprika to give a rich colour
07:01to the crunchy topping.
07:03And into the oven at 180 fan for 15 minutes.
07:08Good job, Kyle.
07:14You mean to tell me I did this?
07:15You did that.
07:17What a delicious, timeless classic for a beginner.
07:21But some of my dinner party ideas are best left in the 1970s.
07:30This is my dear friend Shirley.
07:32We worked together and both loved to cook for parties.
07:36Asparagus rolls were absolutely the most up-to-date things to do.
07:42And you'd use something like a can of asparagus.
07:45I've forgotten about this.
07:47Sometimes for really posh parties,
07:49you'd put another piece in like that,
07:52and the butter made it stick.
07:54I thought it was sheer luxury at the time, didn't you?
07:57Absolutely.
07:58This really takes me back, Mary.
08:00You and I working together like this.
08:03Well, Kyle may prefer something a little more up-to-date
08:07than asparagus rolls and salmon mousse.
08:10These divine mushroom arancini
08:13with a mouth-watering cheese filling will fit the bill.
08:17These are a very special, modern canapé,
08:21perfect for entertaining,
08:23and you can make them ahead too.
08:26I'm using poshini mushrooms
08:28because you get a very intense flavour
08:30from the dried mushrooms,
08:32but they do need reconstituting first.
08:35When they soften,
08:37strain the woody liquid to use later,
08:40then finely chop.
08:42It's a lovely smell coming out from these.
08:46Then throw some chopped banana shallots into a sizzling pan.
08:51Everything is chopped finely
08:53because we're just making these small arancini balls
08:56and we don't want big lumps of onion or mushroom.
09:03Add garlic, risotto rice
09:05and those aromatic porcini mushrooms.
09:09Keep it moving round the pan.
09:11Mix veg or chicken stock into the mushroom liquid.
09:20That's going to be really full of flavour,
09:23mainly from the mushrooms.
09:25This is a cheats risotto.
09:27No need to add more stock slowly.
09:30All it needs is 20 minutes for the rice to cook.
09:33I remember so well in the sort of 60s, 70s,
09:37how I fussed about everything.
09:39I remember I had a favourite tablecloth
09:42and it was green and it was linen
09:44and it was an absolute devil to iron.
09:47And now very much the fashion is to have linen,
09:50but it could be all crinkly, saves time,
09:53even the napkins too.
09:54But I still favour my old green tablecloth
09:57and I promise you I do still iron it.
10:01The rice looks rich and creamy.
10:04Parmesan and seasoning will make it even better.
10:09I'm going to spread that right to the sides of the bowl
10:13so it gets cool quicker.
10:15Pop in the fridge for 20 minutes or so,
10:18then add chopped fresh tarragon and panko breadcrumbs.
10:22That tastes so good.
10:28But there's another ingredient that we're going to use,
10:31which is dolciolata cheese.
10:34So I cut the dolciolata into cubes like this.
10:37I then put it in the freezer because these,
10:40listen, they're quite firm.
10:43That'll be easier for me to put it in the centre of each ball.
10:47Now we're onto the homeward stretch.
10:49To make these balls, it helps to have wet hands.
10:52So I'm just going to put those in there.
10:54Nice, clean hands.
10:55That's it.
10:56Then I'm going to take a teaspoonful of the mixture,
10:59like that.
11:01And then I'm going to roll that into balls.
11:04And it doesn't stick to your hands.
11:06It's really quite pleasant.
11:08Then make a hole in the middle.
11:11Then take a cube of cheese and drop it into the middle
11:16and work the risotto round the outside of that.
11:25Onto the next one.
11:26Another teaspoon.
11:29Now I'm being quite adventurous,
11:31much more than I would have been 20 or 30 years ago.
11:34I wouldn't have used dolciolata,
11:36and it's such a delicious cheese.
11:41When they're all done, dip in beaten egg
11:43and then roll in the panko breadcrumbs
11:45before chilling in the freezer
11:47to help them keep their shape when they are fried.
11:51I think I can do about a 12 at a time.
11:58They're just beginning to sizzle.
12:00That's perfect.
12:01And they want to be pale golden brown.
12:04And this is when all the effort you've done,
12:06you spent time doing those.
12:08You've done them meticulously.
12:10They're holding the shape,
12:11which again is very rewarding.
12:14When they're golden and crisp,
12:16they're ready to serve.
12:18I'm really thrilled with the result of my labour.
12:22Don't they look beautiful?
12:23All crispy brown, ready to eat.
12:26And I'm expecting that dolciolata cheese
12:29to have melted in the middle.
12:37Just in time for Kyle's dear friends
12:40who've arrived ready to eat.
12:43The arancini and, of course,
12:46the salmon with that parmesan crust.
12:49Your mane is served.
12:52Wow.
12:53It's very nice.
12:55It's lovely.
12:56I'm going to try this arancini.
12:58Yeah.
12:59That's delicious.
13:01I promise you, he did really well.
13:04Kyle's salmon is exquisite.
13:07For someone who usually makes packet rice,
13:09I'm so impressed.
13:12You've done well, man.
13:15It's actually really, really tasty.
13:17That's your phrase, isn't it?
13:19Yeah.
13:20Well, the foods are hit.
13:22Now, for what Kyle really loves to do at his parties,
13:27entertain.
13:28Do you all believe there's three raspberries?
13:30Yes.
13:31Yes, OK.
13:32We'll put this one on top of here.
13:34Would you please?
13:39For our brains.
13:40For our brains.
13:41For our brains.
13:42For our brains.
13:43Much like my passion for food,
13:48Kyle's love of magic started in childhood.
13:53So he wants to share some of the delights of those early tricks.
14:06Wow.
14:07This is like a narrative cave.
14:09Yeah.
14:10This is what I like.
14:11That's absolutely everything.
14:13Yeah.
14:14Wow.
14:15Anything else in there?
14:16No.
14:17A few?
14:18No, I don't trust you.
14:21There's nothing else in there.
14:23No, I haven't hidden anything.
14:24But there is a wand here.
14:26Ah, right.
14:27Well, let me do the magic.
14:28You do, yeah.
14:29I'd like a rabbit.
14:30A rabbit?
14:31Yeah.
14:32I'll see what I can find.
14:33Abracadabra.
14:35It's not quite a rabbit, but...
14:38Second choice.
14:40But there's more where that came from.
14:45I've got something that's right up your street, I think, Mary.
14:48Right.
14:49And it's a card trick.
14:50But a card trick with a difference,
14:51because these are just blank cards.
14:53Watch his sleeves.
14:54Watch his sleeves.
14:55I'm watching them.
14:56The cards represent the ingredients of a cake.
14:58For instance, we've got some flour, some milk,
15:00some sugar, some cream and some icing.
15:02Right.
15:03Icing on the cake.
15:04But in fact, if we just make a little bit of magic,
15:06you'll find one of the cakes will appear.
15:07That's the eclair.
15:09And, of course, we have a look,
15:10and the other cards are now completely and utterly...
15:13I'll keep it in for a little bit.
15:14I've got to sleep so much, I missed the drink.
15:15Well, it was magic.
15:16Well, this one, this is a bit of fun as well.
15:19This is actually a trick with an empty bag.
15:22Now, wait a minute.
15:23I'll have a good look at that.
15:24Yeah, have a look. Feel inside.
15:25Right down the bottom.
15:26No?
15:27All the way.
15:28Okay.
15:29Take an invisible object, flick it in the air.
15:32Did you hear that?
15:33Hmm.
15:34If you say the magic word, you'll find a box of flowers comes out.
15:39No.
15:40Ho, ho, ho, ho.
15:41A box of flowers from the empty bag.
15:43Did you understand that?
15:45Because you're a magic man.
15:46No, he's stumped me with that one.
15:48If Kyle can't work it out, it must be magic.
15:52What fun.
15:55What have we got in the air?
15:56I can't work out how he did that.
15:57This, no pecan.
15:58No.
15:59This is more surprises.
16:00Is it?
16:01Yeah.
16:02When I want to sprinkle some magic over a dinner party, then this is the recipe I turn to.
16:09Luxurious beef fillet tails, but with a classic, indulgent Barnais sauce.
16:16It'll impress any guests.
16:19Beef fillet is considered sheer luxury.
16:23I didn't know about tail fillets, you know, back in the 60s and 70s, but now it's become
16:28more popular, but it's considerably more reasonable.
16:32Has just the same flavour and texture.
16:35Drizzle olive oil over the fillet before quickly browning in a hot pan.
16:40Perfect.
16:41Season.
16:42Then just turn it over and do the sides.
16:49And then I put it in the oven to finish off.
16:55Now those are beautifully browned and I'm just going to spread them with a little mustard.
17:02I think Dijon mustard is a delicious choice.
17:07Pop the fillets into the oven at 180 fan for seven to eight minutes.
17:16Out they come.
17:18There we are.
17:19I want them to be really pink in the middle and that's just right.
17:23They can rest while I turn my attention to the sauce.
17:27The method that I'm making my Barnais sauce, I learnt at college and it hasn't changed.
17:34Combine water, white wine vinegar and chopped shallots.
17:39And I'm going to boil it, keeping an eye on it, until it's one tablespoon.
17:45In that time, all the flavour of the shallot will have gone into the liquid.
17:49Do you know something? I have been so fortunate.
17:53When I was doing cooking at college, I had Mrs. Varley.
17:56She was so tall and elegant and dedicated to the subject and she wanted all of us to do well.
18:03She was very firm and we were quite frightened of her.
18:06She didn't give praise often, but I remember when I was making my hollandaise, I got it right and she gave me a bit of praise.
18:14That was good.
18:15When it's reduced, separate out the shallot-infused vinegar before adding egg yolks and a dash of salt.
18:27And as that vinegar went into a cold bowl, it wasn't hot, it's not going to start to cook the egg yolks.
18:33Whisk the yolks until they're well mixed with the vinegar reduction.
18:38I've got the water simmering, I've got a cold bowl with beaten egg yolk.
18:43I'm going to put that on top.
18:45Add cubes of butter, one at a time, until the sauce starts to thicken.
18:51I just want it a little bit thicker.
18:53In goes a little more butter.
18:55That's perfect.
19:01I think Mrs. Varley would have given me a gold star for that.
19:06Season, then add freshly chopped tarragon and parsley.
19:11It's a beautiful sauce.
19:13It's only hollandaise with added fresh herbs.
19:16It doesn't get much better than that.
19:20I've rested that a good ten minutes and I'm expecting it to be beautifully pink inside.
19:29That is just perfect.
19:32The tail fillet is perfect with my bearnaise sauce.
19:36Served with broccoli and a rocket and parmesan salad.
19:41What could be better to impress your friends?
19:44Well, that is one of the best pieces of meat I've ever tasted.
19:53So, so tender and full of flavour.
19:57And what crowns it is that wonderful bearnaise sauce.
20:02And if that wasn't enough, the final trick up my sleeve is my all-time favourite pudding.
20:13A decadent, cream-filled chocolate roulade.
20:20Before we start, I want to share one of my greatest successes,
20:25made for possibly my most memorable party.
20:29Wow.
20:30Is that your wedding cake?
20:31That's my wedding cake.
20:32That's my wedding cake.
20:33I came home with the cake made, but I hadn't done all the piping.
20:37So you made your own wedding cake?
20:39I did.
20:40Well, of course I'm a cook.
20:41I would have been ticked off by all my mates if they said,
20:43what do you mean, you didn't make your own cake?
20:45I would have just thought you would have had some other things to do.
20:48On the morning, I just did the decorating of them.
20:51Wow.
20:52Not too much fuss.
20:53My dress, um...
20:54It's beautiful.
20:55It cost £5 in a sale.
20:56No.
20:57Yup.
20:58What?
20:59It doesn't look too bad, does it?
21:00Right.
21:01Susan's small sale, it was.
21:03Great day.
21:05But it's time to get Kyle focused on making our wonderful pudding.
21:10Whoa!
21:11An easy start of sugar and egg yolks.
21:15Come on, you can go up even faster.
21:16Even more?
21:17Go on, right up to the top.
21:18I'm scared.
21:19No.
21:20That's it.
21:21That's more you.
21:22This is exactly as fun as it looks.
21:25Then we whisk the egg whites.
21:27Kyle needs to beat them into stiff peaks, but no further.
21:36That's just about right, so don't lift it up yet.
21:39Turn it off.
21:40So we'll let those off again.
21:45I think I need your strength.
21:47Just...
21:48Oh!
21:49That's it.
21:50So we've done the egg whites.
21:51Yeah.
21:52There's our beaten egg yolks.
21:53Yeah.
21:54Now we've got to add that chocolate.
21:56It's melted rich dark chocolate.
21:59So when did you come into being a comic?
22:02I trained as an actor and I never thought I'd go into comedy.
22:05I always thought I'd be in, like, quite serious plays.
22:08And I remember I always wanted to be in The Bill.
22:11But...
22:12You must have had another ambition other than The Bill.
22:14That was the main thing.
22:15And then I was trying to get stuff on my showreel.
22:17So I was just doing, like, the comedy sketches and skits on YouTube.
22:21And then eventually met Jamie Dimitriou and then I was in Statlet's Flats.
22:25And that was my first regular role.
22:27Without YouTube, you wouldn't have got going, would you?
22:30No.
22:31It would have taken a lot longer.
22:33Once it's blended, gently fold in a large spoonful of the egg whites.
22:40This will slacken the mix, ensuring no lumps.
22:43Then add the rest.
22:48Adding cocoa powder is the little secret I want to pass on.
22:53I'm always experimenting and I've found that if I added a little bit of cocoa to it,
22:58it made all the difference and it kept its shape better.
23:01So do you experiment quite a lot, then?
23:02Oh, I do.
23:03Yeah.
23:04But I'm sure you experiment with your lines, don't you?
23:07Yeah, often by not saying them.
23:09I mean, I quite like to experiment when I do have to cook.
23:13But the problem is when I like it, when it's really good, I don't know what it is that I've put in.
23:17You don't write it down?
23:18No, I don't write it down.
23:19Ah.
23:20I'll make sure Kyle has the recipe for this roulade.
23:24But first, the velvety mixture can be spooned into the tin.
23:28Oh, yes, that looks nice.
23:31The sponge needs 30 minutes in a 180 fan oven.
23:36You did Sewing Bee.
23:37I saw you on Sewing Bee.
23:38Yes.
23:39And is this one of the little items?
23:41No, this isn't.
23:42This was...
23:43I didn't get this made for me.
23:45Yeah, I did some presenting on Sewing Bee, which was a new thing for me.
23:50But that brought me into the world of competition and presenting and judging, which, of course, you've got a lot of experience in.
23:57Oh, yes.
23:58Well, I was just cooking on television.
24:00And then, of course, Bake Off came along.
24:02I was quite nervous at the thought of being a judge.
24:05And then I thought, well, I've written cake books.
24:07I know exactly how to make a good cake.
24:10But I remember thinking to myself, I don't want to do it on my own.
24:13And that's how Paul Hollywood came.
24:15I think we were a good team.
24:16Yeah, great team.
24:17I think I was a little more gentle, perhaps.
24:19Yeah.
24:20The sponge has baked perfectly.
24:23Just dust a little icing sugar on some baking paper, which will give it the classic finish.
24:30Now, the aim is to tip that on top of there and then we'll peel the paper off.
24:36Am I going to do that?
24:37You're going to do that.
24:38Am I?
24:39Now, am I trying to do this delicately or I'm just dumping it on there?
24:41Delicately.
24:42Delicately over slowly.
24:43Okay.
24:44Come on, then.
24:45Right down.
24:46There we are.
24:47Oh, okay.
24:48I thought it was all going to fall down like a tree.
24:51No.
24:52So that wasn't too difficult, was it?
24:53No.
24:54I didn't really know what to expect.
24:56Well, this is like making an ordinary Swiss roll.
25:00Absolutely perfect.
25:02That was a bit of panache.
25:03Yeah, a bit like magic.
25:04Score a line along the short edge of the sponge, making sure not to cut it all the way through.
25:14And that will make it a really tight Swiss roll.
25:18Right.
25:19To make the cake into a decadent treat, what else but thick whipped double cream.
25:26You're being quite bold now.
25:28Oh, am I?
25:29Yes.
25:30That's it.
25:31In a good way.
25:32In a good way.
25:33Okay, great.
25:34It's quite fun, isn't it?
25:35It is.
25:36But also I'm terrified.
25:38You're not terrified.
25:40You're doing a very good job.
25:43Nothing wrong with that.
25:44Now we come to the rolling out.
25:46Gently roll the sponge inwards, starting with the scored edge.
25:51There's a big crack here, but that is part of its charm.
25:55And so there it is.
25:56And that must be the biggest, fattest, wonderful roulade.
26:00I've done cupcakes before, but I've never done anything as big as this.
26:04Are you proud of that?
26:05I am.
26:06Splendid job.
26:09I think your friends will love it.
26:11Look at this.
26:13How about that?
26:15Don't you think Kael has done well?
26:17Come on.
26:18Just look at that then.
26:19Wouldn't you be proud if you've made that?
26:22Smash it.
26:23That's fantastic.
26:25Just look at their faces.
26:27Come on.
26:28There's a smile all round.
26:31It's lovely.
26:32It's very, very good.
26:34Kael has been a trooper and has truly embraced my lifelong love of entertaining with delicious food.
26:44So, Mary, I want to say thank you very much for today, because I wouldn't have been able to do this without you, literally.
26:49Well, I've had a wonderful day, and I couldn't have had a better student.
26:54He's worked really hard.
26:55His knife work is improving.
26:57Mmm.
26:58Like Zorro.
26:59And he made that wonderful salmon and now the roulade.
27:03You all go round and he'll do it for you, will you?
27:07Is that a problem?
27:08Yeah, yeah, it is.
27:09Yeah, I will.
27:10To you.
27:11To Mary.
27:12To Mary.
27:13What a journey I've had.
27:18Thank you for being with me every step of the way.
27:22I've loved cooking for you.
27:25And I promise you, there's more to come.
27:27To Mary.
27:28To Mary.
27:29Right now.
27:30And we, I'm gonna say, ya know, come.
27:31Thank you, mình!
27:32I hope you made my good thing about a Soo.
27:34Father.
27:35We you come.
27:38Ah, really.
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