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00:00ever filmed in Istanbul. Thanks for joining us.
00:30Istanbul is one of the great cities on Earth, period. For thousands of years, this place,
00:41where East meets West, has been a crossroads of civilizations. Few places on Earth have
00:46witnessed more history than this sprawling metropolis on the Bosporus.
00:52Enjoying the delights of Istanbul, we'll marvel at mosques, peruse the Grand Bazaar, be wowed
00:59by classic carpets, admire artisans at work, and learn why the dervish whirls. We'll sail
01:07the Bosporus, eat fresh fish off the boat, be tempted by honey-drenched baklava, buy some
01:16exquisite silk, and grab some ice cream. Or not. We'll take a side trip to Asia and lose
01:25ourselves in a sea of its people as we celebrate this vast and complex city.
01:33Turkey bridges Europe and Asia. Its largest city, Istanbul, straddles the Bosporus Strait,
01:39part of the cities in Europe and part in Asia. The Golden Horn Inlet, long a strategic harbor,
01:45is crossed by the Gulada Bridge. It connects the bustling new town and the old town with
01:50its fabled palace and mosques. After a cruise on the Bosporus, we'll explore the Grand Bazaar,
01:57wander down the Istiklal Kadessi Boulevard, then finish in Asia with a visit to Uskudar.
02:08Inspiring monuments showcase 2,000 years of Istanbul history, its ancient Roman and early Christian
02:15Byzantine period, its centuries as the capital of the Muslim Ottoman Empire, and its birth as a modern
02:23nation in the 20th century. While today the city is a vast megapolis of over 15 million people sprawling
02:33along both sides of the Bosporus, its oldest citizens actually remember when it had only a million people.
02:39In other words, the vast majority of the city is new. And its historic points of interest
02:46are mostly corralled into a relatively compact old center.
02:57The starting point for many travelers is Istanbul's state-of-the-art cruise terminal,
03:01with its ingenious collapsible walls. It adds to the city's population whenever ships are in port.
03:07A far-sighted infrastructure investment, all the buses and taxis are underground to efficiently
03:14move the crowds. In season, massive cruise ships pour thousands of tourists smoothly into the city
03:21for a busy day of sightseeing and shopping. When ships sail, the security and customs walls fold down,
03:30and Galataport transforms into a delightful public promenade 600 yards long. Late in the day,
03:37the people watching mixes with the commotion of the busy harbor to make it a Turkish paseo like none other.
03:46The Bosporus is churning with boat traffic of all sorts.
03:50This narrow and strategic strait is a bottleneck busy with freighters, including lots of Ukrainian
03:57and Russian ships, since this is the only route between ports on the Black Sea and the Mediterranean.
04:04And tourist boats doing their maritime do-si-do dance around the serious cargo ships and ferries.
04:10For more of a mini-cruise, it's easy to hop a sightseeing boat for a relaxing sail up the Bosporus.
04:22Yes, an intercontinental cruise. It's a chance to see Istanbul from the water and get the lay of the land,
04:29with Europe on one side and Asia on the other. Small historic towns marked by their minarets are now
04:37engulfed in the sprawl of modern Istanbul. The boat passes an Ottoman emperor's hunting lodge,
04:43palaces of the nobility, and homes of wealthy locals, locals who can afford the Bosporus waterfront,
04:50some of the priciest real estate in all of Turkey. And anyone can enjoy the inviting beachfront parks.
04:58The dramatic Bosporus Bridge was the first bridge ever to span two continents.
05:05And the Rumeli Fortress was built by the Ottomans five centuries ago.
05:11Back in the old center, the Galata Bridge spans the strategic inlet called the Golden Horn.
05:17For centuries, this easy-to-defend bay provided the city a protected harbor.
05:22A thousand years ago, long before there was a bridge here, a mighty chain was stretched across
05:29the mouth of this inlet. This gave the Byzantine Empire its safest harbor, which provided the city
05:35a critical key to both trade and military power. While just a few years ago its shoreline was an
05:42industrial wasteland, today the Golden Horn is cleaned up and lined by inviting parks.
05:47After a determined effort by the city and lots of investment, the people of Istanbul now share
05:54a delightfully green and welcoming people zone, the Golden Horn.
06:02Back at the Galata Bridge, for fast food Istanbul style, you can grab a fish wedge just off the boat.
06:08Mackerel, fresh from the guys who caught it, at one of the venerable and very tipsy fish and bread boats.
06:15And as the sun sets, on the bridge you can enjoy panoramic views of Istanbul's old town,
06:24an iconic place for more fast fish,
06:31or a nice dinner, with a view of the harbor action.
06:38There are lots of tourists in Istanbul, and it's interesting to note that about half of them
06:44come from other Muslim countries.
06:55While Istanbul is full of iconic sights, there's one that seems to be on every traveler's list,
07:01the Grand Bazaar.
07:02In many ways, Istanbul's Grand Bazaar remains much as it was centuries ago, enchanting and perplexing
07:16visitors with its maze-like network of lanes hiding more than 4,000 colorful shops, artisans at work,
07:24and tiny eateries.
07:27Despite all the tourists and knick-knacks, the heart of the Grand Bazaar still beats,
07:32giving the observant visitor an unforgettable memory.
07:35In its day, this labyrinthine warren of shops under fine arches was the world trade center for
07:46the entire Ottoman Empire, locked down and guarded by more than a hundred soldiers every night.
07:53While today's main drag is touristy, do what you can to imagine the atmosphere here centuries
07:59ago during Silk Road times. The barrage on the senses. Exotic spices, busy merchants, convivial tea breaks,
08:09and thirsty shoppers. The market is vast, and you can still escape the tourist zones to discover
08:16some authentic nooks and crannies. Surprises await in the low-rent fringes. A commotion of shouting
08:25marks the bazaar's poor man's Wall Street. These currency brokers are frantically swapping fortunes
08:31of euros, dollars, and Turkish lira for their clients. Others keep their fortunes in gold.
08:38The many jewelry shops are a reminder that Turks love gold for more than just its beauty and allure.
08:44Traditionally, it's considered a practical and tangible place to store their wealth.
08:49And much of that gold may be recycled. Around the corner, surrounding a humble courtyard,
08:56sooty smiths labor over furnaces. They're melting gold trimmings from nearby jewelers' workshops back
09:03into a pure and more usable form.
09:09For over 20 years, I've been visiting Ihan. His skillful techniques have changed
09:15little through the generations as he works his trade. Gold, gold. And with that gold,
09:22you can buy a fine Turkish carpet. Shops can come with a vast inventory, offering a warp and weft
09:31fantasy of options. Enjoy a colorful demonstration. Here I have four amazing art pieces that they are
09:38totally different categories. It's like a mother language. Each region of Turkey, we have different style.
09:44But be attracted not by aggressive sales pitches, but by merchants who celebrate this rich,
09:50artistic heritage. So, the other name of those silk collection rugs are flying Turkish rat.
10:04With the fall of Christian Byzantium and the rise of the Muslim Ottomans,
10:08grand mosques shaped the city's skyline. And Suleimania is the finest in town.
10:18This soothing, restrained, yet magnificent house of worship was built by the great 16th-century
10:24architect Sinan for his sultan Suleiman. Although less colorful and less glamorous than some of Istanbul's
10:33other mosques, this mosque is bigger, older, and considered the masterpiece of Ottoman architecture.
10:40The tranquil interior is decorated in pastel hues and stained glass.
10:49Its vast expanse, with no interior support, was a marvel in its day.
10:55And visiting Turks make a point to visit the elaborate tomb of the Sultan Suleiman,
11:00whose nickname was the Magnificent.
11:10The Muslim faith is as varied as the Christian faith.
11:14Some groups are more orthodox and conservative, and others more progressive, like this congregation
11:21of mystic Sufi dervishes, which welcomes women to take leadership roles.
11:27While some worship in grand mosques, others gather in a more intimate space like this,
11:33where musicians set the mood.
11:34The leader guides the congregation in prayer, and slowly the dervishes blossom into a state where
11:44they're ready to whirl.
11:48Dervishes are like monks, inspired by the mystic 13th-century poet Mevlana, also known as Rumi.
11:56Not all dervishes whirl, but all whirlers are dervishes.
12:00With one foot planted in their community, their family, and the other foot dancing around and around,
12:09celebrating the diversity of God's great creation, they whirl themselves into a meditative trance.
12:19In this mesmerizing form of prayer, the dervish contemplates how everything in the universe
12:25swirls from the smallest particles to the earth and beyond.
12:34By whirling, the dervish goes with the cosmic flow.
12:42Mevlana's teaching is all about love and finding that elusive oneness,
12:49with one hand symbolically reaching up to their heavenly creator, and the other like a fountain.
12:55showering that love on all of creation, the dervish meditates on how they can be a conduit of God's love.
13:02To get a fuller appreciation for Istanbul, it's important to leave the old town and explore the
13:22lively, more modern neighborhoods. For the visitor, Istanbul's central tramline laces together the most
13:29interesting sightseeing areas. While often packed, it zips directly through the middle of town fast,
13:37unaffected by the frequent traffic jams.
13:39My friend and co-author of our Istanbul guidebook, Lali Sermon Aran, is joining us as we ride over the
13:48Galata Bridge. Rather than fighting traffic, Lali knows to stick with the tram as we head into the new town,
13:56and the place where everyone seems to be heading, Taksim Square, Istanbul's contemporary heart.
14:07Taksim Square is a major transportation hub and gives us a good taste of modern Istanbul.
14:13The traffic circles a statue that celebrates the father of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.
14:21If Turkey is Western-looking today, you can thank this man.
14:26In the 19th century, the Ottoman Empire was in a state of decline. Its nickname, the Sick Man of Europe.
14:34Following Germany in World War I and therefore losing, the decrepit old empire was swept away,
14:40and from its remnants arose the modern Republic of Turkey, founded in 1923 by Ataturk.
14:47The monument shows the two sides of Ataturk, the military hero of the War of Independence,
14:53and civilian Ataturk, the first president of modern Turkey, surrounded by figures representing the
14:59Proclamation of the Republic.
15:05Nearby, a colorful trolley travels the length of the city's main shopping boulevard,
15:10Istiklan Kadessi, or Independent Street. Offering a parade of local culture,
15:16it was born after a devastating fire in 1870.
15:20The Ottoman government took the opportunity to rebuild the area as a showpiece of the European
15:27style. The message? Look west. The fine old architecture is a reminder that this street was
15:34home to the city's Europe-oriented elite back in the 19th century. Even today, Istanbul's churches and
15:41foreign consulates are in this district. It's just teeming with people. I love to lose myself in this river of
15:49humanity. And it's lined with shopping temptations.
15:56This fine shop sells silk scarves, made in Turkey, of course.
16:01The tulips. Tulip means the Turkish.
16:04That's great. This pattern is so beautiful.
16:08Turks know how to spiff up their look with a scarf, around the neck or as a head covering.
16:14And if you want to go to the mosque, which scarf would you wear and how would you wear it?
16:18If I want to ask, I wear the long one, like this. It's enough for me, like this.
16:26So you say, enough for you. Every woman will choose how much modesty?
16:30Of course, of course. If she's religious, also she can wear like this in square one, for example.
16:38If she's very religious. Yeah, yeah, yeah. She can put a pin here, then she do it like this.
16:47Oh, okay. She can put it here.
16:49So this is an accessory to cover the hair?
16:51Yes.
16:51Yeah? So true to the culture and easy to pack,
16:55a silk scarf makes a nice souvenir.
16:57And the street offers an enticing parade of taste treats. Donner means revolving,
17:09and you know why, when tempted by a Donner kebab.
17:13You can try the sesame rings, called simmet, along with your tiny Turkish vocabulary.
17:22One ring, please.
17:27And for a fast meal with no language barrier, ever-present cafeteria-style restaurants offer
17:33a can-can of fresh and traditional Turkish food.
17:39You'll choose from a range of classic Turkish dishes.
17:43I'm having cabbage rolls, lamb chops, and potatoes.
17:49And something I always look forward to, my go-to yogurt drink here in Turkey,
17:54Iran, and my favorite dessert, rice pudding, or sutlac. But on this street, rice pudding is just the
18:01first of many sweet temptations. Popping into this baklava bakery, it's hard to resist such a festival
18:09of honey-soaked delights. Hey, look at this. Generations of local chocolate salesmen have worked
18:16this little station, peddling a variety of Turkish treats. There's a lot of different flavors.
18:20Yes, with hazelnuts and pistachios and dark chocolate and milk chocolate.
18:25Today, Ali loves to give samples.
18:28Okay, this is the pistachio we're tasting now.
18:30This is, this one?
18:31Yes.
18:32What do you like best?
18:36Everything's good.
18:38And to really earn your dessert, try getting some ice cream from this guy.
18:43He's from Karamarmoros, a town in southeast Turkey, famous for its toffee-like ice cream.
18:55While delicious, it doesn't come easy for anyone.
18:59Whooppa-la!
19:02Boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy!
19:04I want chocolate!
19:08Ah!
19:09Ah!
19:17Oh!
19:21That's nice! Thank you!
19:22Every day, over a million people in Istanbul commute between Asia and Europe.
19:33Some take the five-minute subway ride through the underwater tunnel,
19:38while others catch a ferry for a more scenic intercontinental commute.
19:44An array of ferries cross the Bosphorus every few minutes and cost less than a buck.
19:49And a memorable way for a tourist to experience this city's urban energy
19:55is to join the locals for a 20-minute cruise to Asian Istanbul.
20:10The city of Üsküdar on the Asian side is now a suburb of Istanbul.
20:14While bustling and modern today, it also has a traditional religious feel.
20:22In the Ottoman era, it was the gathering and departure place for pilgrims and caravans heading to Mecca.
20:31Taking a stroll along its waterfront promenade or through its family-friendly parks,
20:36you'll notice a more conservative lifestyle.
20:42Oh, fresh fish!
20:44The marketplace offers a cultural scavenger hunt and plenty of ways to nibble on
20:49even more of Turkey's endless array of taste treats.
20:53Oh, dates! I love dates. How do you say date in Turkish?
20:56Hurma.
20:57Hurma.
20:58In Ramadan, it's traditional. We break the fast with a hurma. Try it.
21:03So this is how we break fast?
21:05Yes.
21:06Happy breakfast.
21:09Oh, yeah. There's a beautiful variety.
21:16So these are grape leaves?
21:18Yes, they are grape leaves and we use these for rolled grape leaves.
21:23So you buy a whole bundle?
21:25They will sell by the weight.
21:27What would you put inside?
21:28Mainly rice, onion, and seasonings. Sometimes with meat, too.
21:34Beautiful. Look at that. Nice.
21:40Yeah?
21:43Rick, this is Milo. We use this to make börek.
21:46It's pastry. We make it both savory and sweet.
21:50These ones I'm buying, I'm going to use with cheese and parsley, and it will be a savory pastry.
21:56Can I come over?
21:57You're welcome.
21:58It looks so good.
22:02That's the delicacy. The best fish of Istanbul. Turbo.
22:06Turbo.
22:06Yes, it's the finest fish of Bosphorus, and these are horse mackerel and anchovy,
22:11the cheapest protein you can buy.
22:13There. My goodness, they're beautiful.
22:17I love olives. Look at so many different varieties.
22:20Different regions, different kinds, and different cures.
22:23Why don't you try one?
22:24Yeah. And where is this from?
22:26South Turkey, Antioch.
22:29Naturally grown.
22:31It's great to have a selection, you know.
22:34And what is this?
22:36This is from the Sea of Marmara, Edremit.
22:39The Sea of Marmara.
22:41Oh, that's really good.
22:44Let's get a mix. A little of that, a little of that in a little bag.
22:46Let's get a little bag.
22:49Can we get a little bag?
22:53Back on the waterfront, I enjoy the view from Asia across the Bosphorus back to Europe,
22:59marveling at this extraordinary city.
23:02Istanbul. It's fast-changing, yet strangely timeless.
23:08Truly one of Europe's great cities. And for me, it never gets old.
23:14Soaring domes, spinning carpets, whirling prayers, churning harbor.
23:28It's an endless promenade that broadens my perspective.
23:32The cities both rooted in tradition and modern facing, as it navigates the challenges of today.
23:45The richness of Istanbul's culture, diversity, and heritage is seen in the faces of its people.
23:51This is today's Turkey, a melting pot of ethnic groups.
23:57Turk, Kurd, Armenian, Jew, Gypsy, Georgian, Greek, and more.
24:04And styles, from the very traditional to the very latest.
24:09The city remains a crossroads of humanity.
24:22And according to the Turkish proverb, every guest is a gift from God.
24:28Istanbul bridges east and west. With a complex weave of modern affluence,
24:37Western secularism, and traditional Muslim faith, it's a dynamic city filled with delights.
24:44Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on traveling.
24:51Perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed.
24:57And certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
25:00But certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
25:04Istanbul. Thanks for joining us.
25:16That's good ice cream.
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