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00:00So gorgeous, and so festive.
00:03I'm on a Rhine River cruise to experience a real German-style Christmas.
00:08You're so magnificent.
00:10There'll be traditional fun.
00:12Laughing all the way!
00:15Food aplenty.
00:16Sausages for the key.
00:18And wall-to-wall sparkle.
00:22Look at that!
00:24It's a statement piece, isn't it?
00:27And I intend to soak it up, bring it home and share it all with you too.
00:32Brilliant, I think.
00:43A quick flight from the UK and I'm in Germany.
00:46This country comes alive during the festive season,
00:49with cities and towns hosting nearly 3,000 annual Christmas markets.
00:54So what better way to get in the mood for the festive season
00:58than a cruise through the country where it all began?
01:04From the town famed for its festive fairs, Nuremberg,
01:07our journey takes us to Bamberg to enjoy some seasonal cheer.
01:11We'll then stop in Würzburg and visit Rothenberg,
01:14or as it's known, Christmas Town.
01:17There'll be carols in Miltenberg before heading to the city
01:20I'm told is Germany's Christmas capital, Cologne.
01:26Right, I need to get to the ship before it departs,
01:29but my route through Nuremberg's winter market
01:31is throwing up lots of distractions.
01:36This is a particularly foodie market.
01:38It's quite a dangerous place for me, though,
01:40because it smells amazing and I want to eat everything.
01:43It's that unmistakable smell, isn't it?
01:46Spices and cinnamon and beautiful, delicious, gorgeous, sugary snacks.
01:51Oh, my goodness!
01:52I've become quite overwhelmed at Christmas,
01:54mainly because my stomach goes,
01:56eat everything!
02:01In Germany, food sellers and toy makers
02:03have been coming together to trade and share the joy of Christmas
02:06since the mid-17th century.
02:08And with time against me, I'm trying a German classic
02:13and testing my language skills.
02:16Hello!
02:17Three Nuremberg in Brotchen.
02:21Cooked over a beechwood fire,
02:23these spicy sausages have been enjoyed
02:25as a pre-Christmas treat for over 700 years.
02:31Now, they're special sausages.
02:33They're Nuremberg sausages, so they're small.
02:35Now, if you've ever seen, like, a German sausage,
02:38they tend to be quite...
02:39Welcome to Sausage Talk with Susan Kalman!
02:41Never thought I'd be doing this!
02:43German sausages!
02:45Tends to be quite large sausages!
02:48The more you see them in sausage,
02:50the stranger that sounds sausage!
02:52Keep it together, Kalman.
02:53You're not in a carry-on film.
02:55Now, that's lovely.
02:58And...
03:01Honestly...
03:03I've had...
03:05German sausages before,
03:08and I have found that they're too much for me.
03:12I prefer a delicate sausage.
03:15Delicate little Nuremberg sausages.
03:18And that is the last time I'm going to say the word sausage.
03:20Ever.
03:21Yum-yum.
03:22I could honestly eat my way around this market,
03:27but my ship is waiting,
03:29and there's just one more thing I'd like to do
03:31before we set sail.
03:34Ein!
03:35Dankeschön!
03:37To get the best view of the market in the city,
03:39I'm heading for a ride on this 38-meter-high Ferris wheel.
03:43Oh!
03:46I'm greeted by some dancing raccoons.
03:49Do you know,
03:50it doesn't matter what animal it is,
03:51stick a Santa hat on it,
03:52and it's adorable!
03:55And who wouldn't want a photo next to these guys?
03:59Do you want me to take it?
04:00OK.
04:02No problem at all.
04:03OK, here we go.
04:04Everyone ready?
04:05There you go.
04:06There you go.
04:07No problem at all.
04:08I wonder if they'll be joining the cruise later.
04:12First, the Ferris wheel.
04:15Five times round.
04:17Oh, yeah, yeah, la, la, la, la, la.
04:21Ah, yes, the fear of heights is still strong in me.
04:24Up we go.
04:25But I won't let it come between me and the magic of Christmas.
04:31You get such a beautiful view of the Christmas market.
04:34It's a lovely thing and a skyline of Nuremberg,
04:37which is such a buzzing, incredible place.
04:44The lights of the trees and everyone bustling around,
04:46it really is so gorgeous and so festive.
04:50This market is the perfect place to kick off my search
04:55for traditional Christmas fun.
04:57But it's now time to hot-foot it to the harbour
04:59and join my cruise.
05:04My fellow passengers, 180 of them, have already checked in
05:08and the welcome drinks are flowing
05:10aboard a rather stylish river ship, Vega.
05:13Oh, it looks absolutely glorious.
05:16It's a bit chilly down by the river
05:18and that looks like a warm cocoon
05:20of Christmas loveliness.
05:22Let's get on board.
05:24Hurry up, Kalman.
05:25It looks like I'm fashionably late
05:27for the sail away party.
05:29Hello.
05:30Hello, Susan.
05:31Merry Christmas.
05:32Merry Christmas.
05:33On tiptoes.
05:34Nice to see you.
05:35Welcome on board.
05:36Beautiful travel model Vega.
05:38I offer you a glass of wine.
05:39There you go.
05:40Sparkling bubbles.
05:41Enjoy.
05:42We have to worry
05:43because Captain wants to sail.
05:44Where's the best place for sail away?
05:46Oh, well, you know, up over the stairs over there like that
05:49you go to the sun deck.
05:50Top deck.
05:51Beautiful view.
05:52Sun deck.
05:53Well, rain deck.
05:54Dark deck.
05:55Christmas deck.
05:56Christmas deck.
05:57Lovely.
05:59And I'll see you later on.
06:00My pleasure.
06:01Thank you very much.
06:02Toodaloo.
06:03Most of the passengers are settling into the party
06:06in the main lounge, but I'm joining a few brave souls
06:09out on deck for the sail away.
06:11Hello you two.
06:12Hello.
06:13How are you?
06:14Sorry to interrupt.
06:15I'm Susan.
06:16What's your name?
06:17Margaret.
06:18And Keith.
06:19Keith.
06:20Lovely to meet you.
06:21And you.
06:22I thought I'd share a wee glass of champagne with you.
06:23Yeah.
06:24Before we set off.
06:25Cheers.
06:27And here's a cheers to Christmas from all of us, yes?
06:28Cheers.
06:29Cheers.
06:30I've made it.
06:31And I have a feeling in my Christmas stocking,
06:33we're going to have a fabulous cruise.
06:35And we're off.
06:40Coming up, a traditional smoked beer is put to the taste test.
06:45I'm having no trouble getting it down.
06:48And a Christmas competition gets controversial.
06:52Not cheating.
06:53There's a lot at stake here, Susan.
07:08I'm on a Christmas adventure through Germany in search of traditional fun, food and festivities.
07:15We're sailing from Nuremberg towards the town of Banburg, giving me time to settle in on board.
07:25I'm not quite ready.
07:26Can you just give me a minute?
07:27OK, thanks.
07:28I'm just adding a few festive touches to my boudoir.
07:32Decorate, decorate, decorate.
07:34Oh, hi.
07:35Hi.
07:36Come on in.
07:37Let me show you what I've done with the place.
07:42I've brought a few decorations from home.
07:44Just to make my cabin a bit more festive.
07:48I've got to hear my outfit for later.
07:50Bathrobe, tinsel, Santa hat.
07:52I know how to party!
07:55My favourite thing, though, is this little Christmas tree.
07:58Quite dainty.
07:59Now, I can't have a Christmas tree at home,
08:02because I have seven cats who launch themselves at it.
08:05But for me, some of my favourite memories as a child
08:08were when my dad brought home the Christmas tree
08:11and we'd all decorate it, and it's wonderful.
08:14And, as the Germans were the first to decorate trees
08:17back in the 16th century,
08:19I thought I should honour this tradition in my own small way.
08:22This is like the cover of my Christmas album I'll release sometime.
08:25Hold on, I'll do the face as well.
08:27And if that doesn't say Christmas number one, I don't know what does!
08:38After a wonderful sleep in my very own grotto,
08:41we've arrived at our first port of call, Bamberg.
08:44This Bavarian city is known as Little Venice,
08:47with buildings dotted around the River Regnitz.
08:50It is a beautiful day and it is a beautiful place.
08:55It's sort of...
08:56If you think of your quintessential German town, this is it.
09:01I've always found a really good way to get to know a place
09:04and the people on the ship is a walking tour.
09:08So I've got my diddly dot that you put in your ear
09:10so you can hear the tour guide.
09:11And, as always, I can see my group there because I'm a bit late.
09:15And if you have any questions, don't hesitate and ask me.
09:20Our guide Horst had put on a Santa hat for us to follow
09:24as he leads us through these enchanting medieval streets.
09:29There's a beautiful range of colours here.
09:32They're very subtle, slightly pastel.
09:34If you look there, it's not so much like a box of chocolates.
09:39It's much more dignified than that.
09:42It's like a classy sweet shop.
09:44It's like a scene from a Christmas card,
09:49showcasing the magical charm of this UNESCO World Heritage town.
09:55The tour guide was telling us that,
09:57unlike some of the other places around here in the Second World War,
10:00it wasn't touched, it wasn't damaged by bombing.
10:03And, as a result, it's sort of perfectly preserved in time.
10:07And these surprises, like this fresco, my goodness!
10:11It is absolutely stunning!
10:13You know in your head when you think,
10:15I want to come somewhere absolutely perfect for Christmas?
10:18This is it!
10:20A few of my fellow cruise companions from Down Under have come on the tour,
10:26determined to enjoy the magic of the season, German style.
10:31Are you enjoying a bit of chill?
10:33Yes.
10:34Yes.
10:35I don't mind the cold.
10:36You never have a cold Christmas, do you?
10:37No.
10:38We go to the beach at Christmas.
10:39Do you?
10:40Do that?
10:41Yeah, we do.
10:42I'm not sure everything is coming out.
10:44As we head to the Cathedral Square,
10:46I'm wondering if her group has anything in common
10:48when it comes to the festive feast.
10:51What do you have for your Christmas dinner?
10:53We, at home, we usually have fish.
10:55Fish for Christmas?
10:56Yeah.
10:57Fish for Christmas?
10:58Yeah.
10:59And some people have goose.
11:01Goose?
11:02And some people have two small sausages.
11:07Very simple.
11:08Sausage, fish or goose?
11:10What do you have in Australia for Christmas dinner?
11:11Prawns.
11:12Seafood.
11:13Prawns and ham.
11:14Mud crab.
11:15Prawns and ham.
11:16Yeah.
11:17And a beer.
11:18And a beer.
11:19Turkey.
11:20Turkey all the way.
11:21That's all we have.
11:22Turkey and pavlova.
11:24One thing we do all agree on is the magic of beautiful Bamberg
11:27at this time of year.
11:29You can see 800 years of European architecture.
11:34The cathedral, which is a combination between late Romanesque
11:38and early Gothic style.
11:39Yeah.
11:40This is Renaissance style.
11:42Yeah.
11:43And this is Baroque style.
11:44Gosh.
11:47I'm not sure I've ever visited a town with so much impressive
11:50architecture from every era.
11:55This place is, how I would categorise it, an oh wow place.
12:00Oh wow.
12:01Every time you walk around a corner you go wow.
12:03Because there's twisty winding streets.
12:08Which gives you a surprise.
12:12I am bowled over.
12:14Absolutely bowled over by Bamberg.
12:20Ladies and gentlemen, this is the end of our guided tour.
12:23I hope it was a little bit...
12:25Thank you very much.
12:27Interesting and enjoyable.
12:28Wonderful.
12:29And now if you want, you can go to the shopping area
12:32or you can also taste the smoked beer.
12:34Hands up for shopping.
12:36Hands up for smoked beer brewery.
12:38Right.
12:39I'm now in charge.
12:40Watch this.
12:41This is my tour guide.
12:42Everyone follow the hands.
12:44Everyone follow the hands.
12:48As I've taken over the role of tour guide,
12:50I'm delighted to learn that Bamberg is also known as Bierstadt or Beer Town because of its 13 breweries.
12:58Right, I'm going to go and get the drinks in.
13:00Smoked beer all round.
13:02I've brought our group to a 17th century inn called Schlenkerle.
13:06Try saying that after a few German beers.
13:08Hello.
13:09Hey.
13:10I would like five of your finest pints of smoked beer.
13:14Five of the smoked beer?
13:15Yes.
13:16But before you do that, actually, what is smoked beer?
13:19Malt is killed over an open fire and hence gets a smokier round of flavour.
13:23Oh, so there's actual fire and smoke?
13:25Because I've never heard of smoked beer before.
13:27It's a speciality around here.
13:29It's a specialty here in Bamberg.
13:31It used to be available all around the globe.
13:33But in England, 400 years ago, they invented modern beer without smoke flavour.
13:38Yes.
13:39But we were a little bit stubborn here and we kept the old style.
13:41And so you have a sip of beer history when you drink Schlenkerle.
13:46Matthias is the sixth generation of brewers to live in this unique building
13:50where they've smoked malts over an open fire to give the beer its special taste since 1678.
13:57How are we all feeling?
13:59Fantastic.
14:00I'm excited.
14:01Are you?
14:02I'm a bit nervous.
14:03Where did it go?
14:04Cheers, everyone.
14:05Cheers.
14:06Cheers, first of all.
14:07OK.
14:10You can certainly taste the smoke.
14:12Yeah.
14:13It grows on you.
14:14It does.
14:15Actually, sort of like a stout.
14:17We'll have a second taste.
14:18You're going to have two tastes.
14:21And three.
14:22Do you know what?
14:23I thought I was going to absolutely hate that.
14:25I actually quite like it.
14:26I do too.
14:27I thought I would hate it as well.
14:29It's actually quite nice.
14:30And you don't drink beer?
14:31And I don't drink beer.
14:32What do you think?
14:33Do you enjoy it?
14:34I'm having no trouble getting it down.
14:38We're not having three pints, by the way, because the ship leaves in approximately
14:42half an hour.
14:43OK.
14:44Shall we carry on?
14:45Cheers again, though.
14:46What a pleasure it's been.
14:47Chin, chin, chin.
14:52My final task as self-appointed guide is to get me and my tour chums safely back on board
14:58before we set sail.
15:00Easy does it.
15:01Hello.
15:02Oh, my goodness.
15:03Thank you very much indeed.
15:04Cheers.
15:05Oh, it's warm.
15:06From Bamberg, we travel west along the main river to Wurtzberg to top up on festive cheer
15:12in Rothenberg, known as Christmastown.
15:15And after our time in Miltenberg, we sail through the Rhine Gorge before finishing our
15:20Christmas extravaganza in Cologne.
15:23Last year, 700,000 people travelled across Germany by river cruise, and it's certainly
15:30a wonderful way to see the sights.
15:33We're sailing just now, so it's probably an appropriate time to give you a wee tour
15:37of the ship.
15:38Come on, let me show you around.
15:40There are only four decks on the ship, yet they've managed to squeeze in everything you
15:46could need.
15:47Reception.
15:48If you've got any questions, this is where you come to.
15:50A little interesting here.
15:52I've been watching this grow.
15:54This is the lost and found table.
15:56As the cruise is developing, more and more things are being added.
16:00If you've lost a chapstick, it's here.
16:05There's a small but perfectly formed gym on board, and if you fancy being sociable,
16:10you head to deck three.
16:12This is the lounge where a lot of people congregate.
16:16You can get a coffee or a tea 24 hours a day.
16:19I did that with my mind.
16:22This is one of the most unexpected things I've ever encountered on a river cruise.
16:29An Irish pub.
16:32It's a lovely cosy little place to sit and have a drink in the evening if you don't fancy
16:37the lounge.
16:38They also have a happy hour.
16:40It's amazing what you can fit into just 135 metres of river cruise ship.
16:46This is the sun stroke whatever weather it is deck.
16:52Absolutely lovely.
16:53It doesn't matter what kind of ship I'm on.
16:55I love going to the front because you feel like you're moving with the water.
17:03But there's no time to stand around admiring the view.
17:06I'm late for a very festive on board activity hosted by Gunther, the cruise director.
17:11Hello everybody.
17:12Merry Christmas.
17:13Merry Christmas.
17:14Yes.
17:15I'm going to try a very traditional Christmas craft, decorating a gingerbread house.
17:20Folks, you've got ten minutes, you've got all the ingredients over there.
17:24Make it as beautiful as you ever can.
17:26Fantastic prizes for the winner.
17:28But I will tell you that later.
17:30Go on.
17:31Bang.
17:32Right, okay.
17:33But I wasn't expecting it to be a competition.
17:42See what's happened there is that everyone's just gone straight in.
17:45She's standing up.
17:46This is what happens, isn't it?
17:48So much for a relaxing activity.
17:50Being against the clock has instantly unleashed my competitive streak.
17:55Just feeling under a lot of pressure.
17:58This will help.
18:00There's been a right severe weather warning over this house, hasn't there?
18:05Just to let you know, you're halfway, five minutes past, five minutes to go.
18:09Five minutes to go.
18:11And it looks like my competitors are storming ahead with their designs.
18:18Stop you copying.
18:19I'm not copying.
18:20I'm not copying.
18:21She's copying.
18:22I'm not copying.
18:23She's cheating.
18:24Can a woman not admire another woman's work in a gingerbread house?
18:27There's a lot at stake here, Susan.
18:31What I appear to be doing there is drawing drain pipes.
18:33As if I'm incredibly interested in the infrastructure of this gingerbread house.
18:37That's the downpipes.
18:39Moving into the main drainage system.
18:41But one team is crumbling under pressure.
18:46Oh, no!
18:47The structural integrity of the gingerbread house has failed!
18:49Time is up!
18:50Time is up!
18:51Would you agree?
18:52Oh!
18:53Oh!
18:54While I enjoy the leftovers, Judge Gunther is casting a critical eye over our efforts.
19:02Yeah, very well.
19:03Very well.
19:04Very colourful.
19:05Colourful.
19:06Yes.
19:07Is this the idea that they are like laying down?
19:08Yes.
19:09All right.
19:10Fair enough.
19:11Susan.
19:12Yes.
19:13Minimalistic.
19:14I did it!
19:15I mean...
19:16Anyhow.
19:17All right.
19:18I'll be the judge.
19:20Try as neutral as I can be.
19:23I've not been this nervous since the Strictly dance-off.
19:27I think you deserve the prize.
19:32OK, I'll give it to the ladies.
19:34It's a dream gingerbread house.
19:36I did not mention yet the prize.
19:38The prize is that you get to take it home and eat it all.
19:42Enjoy!
19:43Merry Christmas!
19:45The gingerbread house-eating competition will have to wait.
19:48Our ship is arriving into Wurtzburg.
19:50And there's only one trip on today's festive agenda that's caught my eye.
19:56I'm going today to a place that has the nickname of Christmastown.
20:00So, I mean, how appropriate is that?
20:02And also, just so you know, my better half's nickname for me is Pudding.
20:07So, I've got a Christmas pudding hat.
20:09Oh!
20:10Couldn't get more festive if it tried.
20:12And it looks like my fellow cruisers on today's trip also got the Christmas outfit memo.
20:24When we're off to Christmastown, are you excited?
20:27Yeah!
20:28Absolutely!
20:29I can't wait to discover how Rothenberg earned the name Christmastown.
20:34And my festive chums are almost as excited as me!
20:38I can't tell you how much I love Christmas.
20:41It's my favourite time of Europe.
20:43Yeah, I think it is.
20:44Yeah.
20:45I think it's a time to see the family.
20:46Yeah.
20:47The children opening presents.
20:48Yeah.
20:49It's just great fun.
20:50Well, have a nice time at Christmastown.
20:51I'd like to get blue vine.
20:52Blue vine?
20:53Yeah.
20:54And mugs that are in the shape of a boot.
20:56Boot.
20:57If we don't get one for you today, it will be my mission to ensure that you get that.
21:02Right?
21:03Here's a happy Christmas and let's enjoy Christmastown, everybody.
21:06Yay!
21:09Coming up, Christmastown is my happy place.
21:12The decorations, that's what it is.
21:14I love it.
21:15And the gift that keeps on giving.
21:17It's about dreaming and it's lovely to share it.
21:21Today, me and my crew's companions have arrived in Rothenburg to find out why it's known as
21:36Christmastown.
21:37I always buy a decoration for my mum.
21:40So on her Christmas tree there are baubles from everywhere I've been.
21:44It looks just like the set of your favourite Christmas movie, a picture-perfect medieval town.
21:50Let's go!
21:53Right?
21:54Everybody in?
21:55Everybody in?
21:57And the secret to the town's festive nickname lies behind the facade of this beautiful old
22:02building.
22:04Wow!
22:05Oh, wow!
22:07Oh, my God!
22:09That tree's amazing, isn't it?
22:13I don't think I've ever been in a Christmas shop this remarkable.
22:16One of the reasons it's called Christmastown is this museum and shop.
22:21And it's open all year round for all your Christmas requirements.
22:26And it is magnificent.
22:28It's like a combination of things you can buy but also the story of Christmas.
22:33Do you know the thing about Christmas that's amazing?
22:34It's the decorations.
22:35And, of course, the feeling of love and peace and everything else.
22:36And the decorations!
22:37That's what it is!
22:38I love it!
22:39It just goes on and on.
22:40Look at that!
22:41That's the kind of tree that you imagine seeing, you know, in New York City.
22:44New York City!
22:45Outside the Rockefeller Center or something.
22:46It is incredible!
22:47Every inch of this place is covered with Christmas joy.
22:50From the more unusual to the absolute classics.
22:52I mean, it's an iconic symbol, isn't it?
22:53The Nutcracker.
22:54And that's just about the biggest one.
22:55I love it.
22:56I love it.
22:57I love it.
22:58I love it.
22:59I love it.
23:00I love it.
23:01I love it.
23:02I love it.
23:03I love it.
23:04I love it.
23:05I love it.
23:06I love it.
23:07I love it.
23:08I love it.
23:09I love it.
23:10I love it.
23:11I love it.
23:12I love it.
23:13I love it, isn't it?
23:14The Nutcracker.
23:15And that's just about the biggest one I can possibly imagine.
23:18I mean, it's a statement piece, isn't it?
23:20It's a statement.
23:22I used to have nightmares about nutcrackers after my mum made me crack 5,642 of them one
23:28Christmas.
23:29You can make them move.
23:30I love the way you found that out.
23:33Susan, Susan, you can make the mouse move.
23:35You can make the mouse move.
23:36Oh, there we go.
23:39Yeah.
23:40Merry Christmas.
23:41Maybe a smaller one would be the perfect souvenir, so long as it doesn't bring back those childhood
23:48nightmares of cracking nuts.
23:51There's a Scottish one with a pair of bagpipes and a kilt.
23:56Oh, my goodness.
24:01There's literally a nutcracker for anybody around here.
24:04Definitely gonna have one tonight.
24:06And it looks like a few gifts have caught the eye of my fellow cruisers, too.
24:11Hi, everyone.
24:12Mr Bubbles.
24:13Oh, have you managed to find a couple of things you're interested in by this one?
24:19And I want to find out what my new Australian friend Margaret thinks of this place as she's
24:24a Christmas super fan.
24:26Hello, Margaret.
24:28How are you?
24:29I'm absolutely in awe, absolutely in awe.
24:35This is the most beautiful shop I have ever seen.
24:38Really?
24:39This just takes my breath away.
24:41This is where I've always wanted to come.
24:44It's something that I feel as though I've ticked off the bucket list.
24:48I've always been too busy to do with the things that I've really and truly loved.
24:53And this is one of them.
24:55This is one of them.
24:56I'm so pleased for you.
24:57Margaret's reaction was really quite emotional.
25:05And that's the beautiful thing about Christmas.
25:08It's about dreaming.
25:10It's about just those special moments.
25:14So this isn't just about shopping.
25:17This is really, really important.
25:19And it's lovely to share it.
25:21And we'll go back to the ship and we'll have had this moment together.
25:25Nutcracker purchased and my time in Tinseltown is nearly up.
25:30Thank you very much indeed.
25:32Lovely.
25:33Have a lovely Christmas.
25:34Bye.
25:40I could easily while away hours here.
25:44But I've just a couple of minutes to grab a festive treat before we head back to the ship.
25:50So there is a local delicacy I am dying to try while I'm here.
25:55It is Schneeballen or Snowballs.
25:58I really don't know what it's made of.
26:01But you know, when in Germany and all that.
26:07Hello.
26:08Hello.
26:09Good.
26:10How are you doing?
26:11Very good.
26:13Can you tell me what is a snowball?
26:14Well, a snowball is a traditional pastry that was found in the Middle Ages where people
26:20would bake it for baptisms or weddings because it doesn't need any refrigerating.
26:27So you can just stick it in a tin and keep it for a long time, six to eight weeks.
26:32Really?
26:33Yeah.
26:34And so that was really convenient during that time where they didn't have anything to keep
26:38the snowballs good.
26:39I see.
26:40So...
26:41So...
26:42The traditional snowball is sugar coated, but I'd like to try one of the more festive flavours
26:47like apple and cinnamon, hazelnut or chocolate.
26:50Yes, it has to be chocolate.
26:51Okay.
26:52Here we go.
26:53Thank you very much.
26:55Thank you so much for your time.
26:57Have a lovely Christmas when it comes.
26:59You too.
27:00See you later on.
27:02Okay.
27:03I mean, it's like a giant procedural in a bag.
27:10It's more of a biscuity texture.
27:13Very sweet.
27:14Very, very delicious.
27:16I'm going back in.
27:20There's no way to do this in an attractive, dignified way.
27:24I'd like some more.
27:26Nothing more embarrassing than when two people from the ship see you trying to eat a snowball
27:30they'll blow the top of the ship.
27:32They'll snowball Susan, that's what they'll say.
27:34I'll find bits of it in my bra for days to come as well.
27:37Onwards.
27:38After two shakes of a reindeer's tail and a day full of festive fun and Christmas magic,
27:49we're back on board and it's finally time to settle down.
27:53Time for bed I think.
27:55Night.
27:56Good night Susan.
27:59Adorable.
28:01Nighty-ho.
28:03Sweet dreams.
28:30I can't crack that many nuts.
28:33More nuts Susan!
28:34More nuts!
28:36No more.
28:39More nuts!
28:43What?
28:45What is all the idea, Dreamer?
28:58It's a new day on my Christmas cruise.
29:01We're enjoying the seasonal traditions of German towns that come alive at this special time of year.
29:08After sampling sausages in Bamberg, we went nuts for nutcrackers in Rothenberg and our next stop is Miltenberg in search of some festive entertainment.
29:18And our compact cruise ship is the perfect size to deliver us into the heart of the town.
29:26The ship is abuzz with excitement and the bonus is it's actually stopping at Miltenberg.
29:32So you can just wander off and take a look around, got my hat on, got my gloves on, off we pop.
29:41Nestled on the banks of the River Main, the winding streets of another beautiful medieval town await.
29:46Overlooked by the Ordenwald and Spessart mountain ranges, Miltenberg is popular with climbers.
29:56But I'm heading into town for my Christmas fun.
29:58This is a very Christmassy thing to do, isn't it?
30:03Just to put your nose up against a chocolate shop and see what there is.
30:07Oh, they look lovely.
30:08Truffles.
30:10Truffles.
30:12Truffles.
30:13I love it when I can just have a wander, you know that?
30:19I love it.
30:21And I think all my fellow passengers do as well.
30:24Everyone was ready to go because the ship's gorgeous.
30:28But there's something nice about getting off and stretching your legs and taking a look around.
30:33There's a real charm to Miltenberg with buildings that have been here since the 13th century,
30:39including this impressive church.
30:42And it sounds like the Christmas carols have already started.
30:46I can hear something from in this church.
30:50It's very beautiful.
30:52I'll just pop in.
31:01This is a lovely place.
31:04And the sound is incredible.
31:06I'm going to try and find my way up and see if I can chat to whoever is playing that magnificent music.
31:15I can play very basic piano, so can only imagine the skill required to play this incredible instrument, built in 1699.
31:29Sat at the keyboards is the very talented Sylvia.
31:32Sylvia.
31:35Incredible.
31:37What a pleasure to meet you.
31:39The sound of that gives you goosebumps.
31:42What does it feel like to play?
31:45The organ is the master of the instruments.
31:48And when I play in this church and when I'm alone, it's really wonderful.
31:53I love it.
31:54I think a lot of people look at the organ and think it's a very complicated instrument.
31:59What do all of these things do though?
32:01Do they play different noises?
32:02Yes.
32:03In this song I did really only a traverse flutter with a tremolant.
32:09Okay.
32:11And I came with this.
32:13I can make it really, really pianissimo.
32:17Yes.
32:18Very delicate.
32:19Yes.
32:20It's like a dream.
32:21It's like really a flute.
32:22Do you know, it's very strange the way because you really remind me of my piano teacher.
32:26You have the same.
32:28And I loved her, Mrs Scott.
32:30We had an organ in the house, actually.
32:33And I've always loved the sound of it as a result.
32:35Okay.
32:36I'm not a great pupil, but could we try and do something together?
32:40Okay.
32:41Yes.
32:43That was a slightly reluctant yes, but I'm not passing up the opportunity to play here.
32:51You can play the melody and I play the rest, okay?
32:54But you need to show me how to play it.
32:57Okay.
33:00Right.
33:01Okay, hold on.
33:03Yes.
33:05Ah, super.
33:15Ah, brilliant, I think.
33:18Like, absolutely no word of a lie.
33:20That's one of the greatest things that's ever happened.
33:22Next you will make the rest.
33:25This is a real pinch me moment.
33:28Okay, ready?
33:29Yeah.
33:32That is just, it's quite an emotional thing, isn't it?
33:50Yes, it's a really deep emotion.
33:52And it's the reason why the organs are in the church.
33:56Yes.
33:57I think I want to do this now.
33:58You are a very good teacher.
34:00Aw.
34:01You are a very good teacher.
34:03My Christmas cupeth runneth over.
34:07This has been an unexpected wish come true.
34:12Welcome to the organ.
34:16My visit to Miltenburg might have been short, but the Christmas memories I've made here will stay with me for a very long time to come.
34:34Back on board, we set sail for the Christmas capital of the trip, Cologne.
34:47And to get there, we're travelling through a stretch of water that's one of the most visited attractions in Germany.
34:53This is the Rhine Gorge and on both sides of the river there are incredible little houses and castles and it's known for being particularly scenic.
35:07You can also see some vineyards on the sides of the hills and it is, I mean, it's really, really very beautiful.
35:15Of course, I can only see one side.
35:17Oh, it's such a long walk to see the other side.
35:20Come on.
35:21Here's the other side.
35:31So you can now see what's here.
35:34I just love the size of this river though.
35:37It feels like you're really sailing.
35:39While the ship sails along, we've all been called to the lounge for a bit of a surprise.
35:55I've no idea what it is, but given the number of Christmas hats and jumpers on display, everyone seems to be up for it.
36:01Ladies and gents, would you like to come and join me in singing a Christmas song?
36:08Yes, yes.
36:10Do not need to be asked twice to join in a sing-song.
36:14You don't have to be able to sing.
36:15Come on now, everybody.
36:17How fabulous.
36:19A special Christmas sing-song.
36:21Hold on, I'll count you in.
36:24One, two, three, and...
36:25Dashing through the snow On one hot open sleigh
36:32All the fields we go Laughing all the way
36:37Bells on the bobtail ring Making spirits bright
36:43We may not know all of the words, but my goodness, we're singing with real gusto
36:48Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle bells
36:51And what we lack in harmony, we make up for with enthusiasm
36:55Is to ride it on one horse on a band sleigh
37:10And that was emotional.
37:13Once they add the auto-tune to that, that is going to be a Christmas number one.
37:17Well done, everyone.
37:18Well done, everyone.
37:19That was nice girl.
37:20Yes.
37:29Coming up, our Christmas cruise reaches Cologne, and it's everything I could have hoped for.
37:35You are so magnificent.
37:38Happy Christmas, and to you, darling.
37:40The bells are ringing just now from the cathedral.
37:44It is so incredibly beautiful.
37:55My festive river cruise through Germany has arrived in magnificent Cologne.
37:59The city is home to some of Europe's most popular Christmas markets, and visited by around 4 million people each year.
38:07This is my first time in this 2,000 year old city, and I couldn't think of a more perfect time of year to visit.
38:14My first stop is St Nicholas Market, with my friend and fellow Christmas lover, Margaret.
38:22I've been keeping my eye out for a festive treat for her, and I think I've finally found it.
38:27You wanted some Glühwein. Have you managed to get any Glühwein yet?
38:33No, I haven't.
38:35In the spirit of Christmas, I'm going to make your dreams come true now, because straight in front of us, it is Glühwein.
38:41Oh, and look...
38:43In the little boots, in the little boots! It's in the little boots! It's in the little boots!
38:48Margaret has travelled all the way from Australia to experience a traditional German Christmas,
38:53and drinking Glühwein from a boot-shaped mug is part of her dream.
38:58Smells delicious, doesn't it?
39:00Oh, it's got herbs or something in it. Cinnamon, I think, cloves maybe, in it.
39:05Let's have a taste and we'll find out the verdict.
39:12That's nice, isn't it? Oh, that is.
39:14That is absolutely delicious. Is everything you hoped it would be?
39:18Oh, it is, it is. And the little boot, I think that's just gorgeous.
39:22Gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous.
39:25And I'm glad both of your Christmas wishes on this cruise have come true.
39:29OK. So, here's to you. Happy Christmas.
39:32And to you, darling.
39:34Another Christmas wish come true.
39:39And just around the corner, there's more magical surprises in the Market of Angels.
39:44You're so magnificent. Thank you. Do you represent anything?
39:52Yes, it's a Nordic legend. It's like we have in Germany, Nikolaus.
39:59What kind of owl is this?
40:01It's an African spotted owl.
40:02My goodness. So incredible. You're spectacular and so are you.
40:10This market certainly has an extra sprinkle of fairy dust.
40:15There are lots of angels here.
40:16I once had the honour of being the Angel Gabriel in the church nativity.
40:23And I remember it was a pretty big deal to be chosen to be the Angel Gabriel.
40:28People still talk about it, you know, in Scotstown.
40:31The year I was the Angel Gabriel.
40:33Angelic.
40:34As night falls, the streets are aglow with lights and thousands of people are weaving their way around the city,
40:50enjoying everything these markets have to offer.
40:52My final stop is massive.
41:02And it's even more special because the cathedral is right there.
41:05It is so incredibly beautiful.
41:08There's such a lovely atmosphere here.
41:11Everyone's very cheerful.
41:12And after hot-footing it through the town, I think the team have earned a Christmas treat too.
41:22Hands up if you want a sausage.
41:25Just for that first, okay for everyone?
41:27Yeah.
41:29It is Christmas after all.
41:31Thank you very much indeed.
41:33Right.
41:34I should really hold the camera at this point but I don't want to break it.
41:37Sausages for the crew.
41:39Can I have an end?
41:41Can I have the end of your sausage?
41:43Yeah.
41:47I have a good sausage.
41:49Happy Christmas everyone.
41:52The sausage has put a spring in our step and given us a chance to soak up this wonderful atmosphere.
42:00The bells are ringing just now from the cathedral.
42:05It's proper Christmas-y.
42:06That's what it is.
42:09It's quite a nice soundtrack because Christmas songs are lovely.
42:11You're playing all the time but that's, you know, the bells are ringing out for Christmas.
42:19With the world's third largest Gothic cathedral in the background, being at this market at this time of year is a dream come true.
42:27And I have one more Christmas wish before I leave.
42:30My wish is that you have a happy, healthy, peaceful and joyous Christmas, whoever you spend it with.
42:38So from me and mine, to you and yours, Merry Christmas.
42:42Merry Christmas.
42:43Can you have all the festive fun you want on limited funds?
42:58A luxury Christmas for less, how to do it is brand new next Friday at 8.
43:01From the Canaries to the Caribbean, you can find all episodes of Cruising with Susan Kalman streaming now on 5.
43:09There's live boxing as Harlem Eubank takes on Josh Wagner next.
43:13For more videos like this In the Details
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