Why trash is the latest trend in Malawi

DW (English)

In Malawi, fashion is getting a bold remix as yesterday's discards become tomorrow's statement pieces. Let's meet the designer who's turning textile waste into wearable change.

Transcript

00:00If the clothes you're wearing aren't your own, and if they've been recycled from leftovers,

00:07what do you think that would be worth to you? In order to find a very good fabric,

00:14leftover fabric, you need to put in the effort to go out and search for that. At the same time,

00:21let's say the quality is custom made. We make sure that we make things that are long-lasting

00:27because the goal is that if I make a suit for you, you shouldn't get another maroon suit or another

00:34red suit made anytime soon. So you should wear that for the longest time possible. So they are

00:40just as valuable and they are actually even more valuable than fast fashion items. 38-year-old Kulukaya

00:46Siddiqui is challenging conventional fashion by giving discarded clothes a stylish new life.

00:53Normally we get orders for our outfits and from there we go out to source the fabrics from local

01:01women who sell them because that is also part of the value chain to support local women. And when we

01:08come back, we make the item as was discussed with the client or as we see fit for the client.

01:16As popular as Kunjika secondhand clothes imported mostly from Europe are in Malawi.

01:22Kulukaya and her team go beyond this. They take leftover garments and fabrics and turn them into

01:28unique and desirable fashion pieces. First of all, by encouraging the reuse of recycled and upcycling

01:38other materials as well, then we are saving those materials from going into landfills and causing maybe

01:45further pollution into the earth, which at the end of the day affects the climate as well.

01:50In a world grappling with textile waste, her innovative approach to recycling and repurposing fashion

01:57is offering a sustainable and valuable alternative for Africa, as she's not just creating clothes,

02:02but pioneering a movement towards a more circular and conscious fashion industry in Malawi.

02:08I realized my love for style and also my passion for the environment and helping the community.

02:16So I needed to reach a point where these three can be aligned. And that's when I came up with having

02:23a brand that does not only just make clothes, but a brand that actually makes a difference within the

02:28community and around the cloth. Tailcoat rental is a well-known term, at least in Europe, when it comes to

02:35dressing up properly for a social event. And workwear is also often hired. This not only reduces the cost

02:42to the wearers, but also makes supply and disposal easier because repairs are included, for example.

02:48Given the high purchase costs for private clothing, wouldn't this also be a sustainable model for Africa?

02:53One of the benefits is that it's cost effective. And at the same time, it gives the product a longer life.

03:01It's not just enjoyed at one event, but it's used at different events by different people.

03:07We are staying away from fast fashion, fast land refills, and people just keeping clothes in their closets after an event.

03:16The city of Blantyre generates approximately 192,720 metric tons of solid waste annually,

03:26of which 70% is not formally disposed, and only a mere 4% is recycled. Textile waste, when improperly

03:34discarded, can obstruct vital waterways and drainage systems, leading to flooding, particularly affecting

03:41poor and rural communities situated downstream. We collected about 100 tons of waste, but that

03:47was mixed waste. But when we started separating it, we found 40% was material. Then another 50% was made

03:55out of various types of plastics. You go around all the rivers in Malawi, I'm sure you'll be able to see

04:02a single-use plastic in these rivers. So it's a terrible pollution in our country. But until customers

04:08start thinking of sustainability, will this vicious cycle end? So most of my clients understand their

04:16style, but they also understand the need to get items done that are longer lasting, friendly to the

04:25environment, because they are versatile as well as unique. Now let's see if or how Kulukaya Sea grows.

04:33What do customers think about rented clothes? And what if they themselves were also

04:38produced sustainably? I also wanted to talk about how she rents out ready-made pieces of clothing.

04:44I enjoy that part of renting because it is affordable for me. And I find that it is not sustainable or

04:52realistic to be buying new pieces of clothing every other time. So if I come here, rent an outfit and

05:02give it back. It works for my budget. Kulukaya's, Sadiki's designs are not just about fashion.

05:08It's a powerful statement about resourcefulness and sustainability.

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