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Mary at 90 - A Lifetime of Cooking (2025) Season 1 Episode 2

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Transcript
00:00To mark my 90th birthday, I'm taking a trip down memory lane.
00:06Well, you've got all these tips, I know, and I've read with great pleasure in these Home and Freezer Digest books,
00:11because they're only 15 pence, and they're issued once a month, isn't it?
00:14Once a month, and I think there's lots of cooking ideas that save money.
00:17I'm trying to give myself a haircut there.
00:20It's liable to get lost in that big chest, you know.
00:23It's all over the place.
00:25Celebrating a lifetime of doing what I love is a real honour.
00:30I think they look perfect.
00:32Joined by wonderful old friends.
00:35Cheers!
00:36No, no, no, no.
00:37Oh!
00:38Come on, Barry.
00:39And special new ones.
00:40Delicious.
00:41I've never had a dame in the house before.
00:43Hello, sailor.
00:46We'll cook some of my classics.
00:48You're such a great teacher.
00:51Wow.
00:52I've never been this scared since I did my exams for horticulture.
00:55Update, old favourites.
00:57Chickpeas.
00:58What were chickpeas in the early part of when I was cooking?
01:01And, of course, share some delicious new recipes.
01:05Where on earth would I rather be right now?
01:08Oh, no.
01:09Oh.
01:10Dribbled the custard now.
01:11No, no.
01:12It's all right.
01:13You mean to tell me I did this?
01:14You did that.
01:15Rejoicing in my ongoing passion for home cooking.
01:18You're such an inspiration.
01:35Finding time in our busy lives to cook great meals is certainly a challenge.
01:40I've dedicated my life to helping people save time in the kitchen.
01:45No one deserves it more than my friend, the sports broadcaster and working mum, Gabby Logan.
01:53I'm so excited to spend the day with Mary Berry.
01:57She is such a hero.
01:59It's going to be a fun day.
02:01Mary!
02:02How are you?
02:03You are very much on sort of home ground for you.
02:07Is that OK?
02:08I felt like spending a day...
02:09This is not my comfort zone at all.
02:12You love sport, though.
02:13I love sport, but I love even more the fact that you're joining me today.
02:17I'm very excited about it.
02:19Don't worry, we're not going to play football.
02:21But we are going to cook together, so come on.
02:23Let's go do it.
02:25I want to show Gabby four dishes that span across my career.
02:30All freezer-friendly and perfect to make ahead.
02:36The 1970s go-to dinner party favourite.
02:40Baked New York cheesecake, still popular and still so simple to make.
02:47A classic cured salmon gravlax made much like I did in the 1980s.
02:55A new recipe for this mouth-watering, slow-cooked casserole
03:00with a very modern cut of beef I've only just discovered.
03:05And because I'm still developing ways to make life easy,
03:10my classic family pasta with a new twist to make it freezer-friendly.
03:16I love sharing all my shortcuts and tips so we have more time to enjoy delicious food.
03:28I think home freezers were a huge turning point in making life easier.
03:33They were more common after the 60s, but I still had to explain the best way to use them.
03:39Lots of people have these tall ones.
03:41Now I've got a chest one actually, but this is beautifully packed.
03:45You can buy a big pack and you can perhaps use four fish fingers, close it up again and then use them later.
03:51It looks so strange seeing a freezer and explaining about it.
03:56Kippers are an excellent buy on the bone, much more reasonable than buying them individually.
04:00Freezers were becoming part of life. Until then, people did their preserving in glass jars.
04:09Some peas. These were £5 for 75 pence. That's 15 pence a pound.
04:15Goodness gracious!
04:16And I've got some special sausages and you mustn't keep sausages because they've got a high fat content.
04:21You mustn't keep them too long. And these are nearly three months, so I must use them up.
04:25Look, this is a trotter that I keep meaning to make some brawn with.
04:30Gosh, I wonder what viewers would say now if I produce trotters.
04:39We take freezers for granted now, and I wouldn't be without mine.
04:44This modern recipe for macaroni cheese is ideal to make life easier.
04:51I'm going to show you how you can make it, freeze it, cook it straight from the freezer,
04:56and the consistency will be perfect, and the flavour too.
05:00The white sauce is a simple roux.
05:03I find to make a white sauce with hot milk, you get success every time.
05:08First, melt the butter before adding the flour.
05:11I use plain flour if all you've got in the house is SR, doesn't matter.
05:16Gradually add the hot milk a little at a time.
05:20Looks a little lumpy at the moment, give me a few moments and I'll give it a beat.
05:25It'll be as smooth as smooth.
05:31Once all the milk is in, bring the sauce to the boil.
05:35I don't usually cook pasta dishes from frozen because they end up a little bit stodgy.
05:40But this one is especially for the freezer.
05:43The sauce is much thinner and it makes a brilliant result.
05:47Finally, a mix of parmesan and cheddar to create that rich cheesy sauce.
05:53Vegetarian cheese options will work well too.
05:57And then a tablespoonful of Dijon mustard.
06:02Mustard brings out the flavour of the cheese.
06:06Season and pile in cooked macaroni pasta that's been cooled.
06:16All very easy.
06:17Give that a good stir.
06:19Now that looks quite sort of sloppy and that's just how it should.
06:25And it goes straight into the freezer from here, ready for those days when there's just no time.
06:44Just imagine, straight back from work, over to the freezer, max frozen solid, off with the foil, into the oven and in 45 minutes it'll all be ready.
06:57A 180 fan oven will do the job.
07:00Oh, it is the most gorgeous golden brown colour and it's bubbling away and the smell.
07:15It's making that bubbling sound.
07:26Just look at that.
07:29I think this will be a great recipe for Gabby.
07:36Maybe she'll be coming home late from football on a Saturday and coming through the door she'll have the macaroni cheese at the ready in the freezer.
07:50But I have another freezer friendly recipe I discovered in the 1980s with a little more elegance for my high-flying friend.
07:59So how long have we known each other?
08:01Well, I moved to your old village about 12, 13 years ago and you were very good friends with some people who I'm now very good friends with.
08:10I ended up cooking for you, which was one of the most nerve-wracking days of my life, Mary.
08:13Oh, come on.
08:14I had to take the day off work.
08:15I blocked it out so that I could spend the whole day cooking.
08:17It was such a great influence on all of us in terms of our cooking and just juggling things, how you managed to juggle everything.
08:24I think you're an inspiration.
08:25Well, there's no one busier than you.
08:27Homecooks fell in love with this cured fish over 30 years ago and it's still popular.
08:36With a delicious mustard and dill sauce, it's perfect for busy Gabby who loves to entertain.
08:44Shall we sit down?
08:45Yeah.
08:46To cure this side of salmon, all I need is coarse sea salt and caster sugar. Quick and simple.
08:55And then you just cover the fish. And that, in turn, will make the juices come out, the fish will get smaller and it will preserve it.
09:09Once it's covered, sprinkle with dried dill, essential for the perfect Gravlax.
09:14Well, Mary, that just seems so easy. I can't believe that's it. That's all you do.
09:19It is easy. Well, you're such a busy girl. Whenever I turn anything to do with sport, there you are, looking so smart and enthusiastic.
09:28Well, there's a lot of sport, Mary, as you know, isn't there? It just never seems to end, whether it's rugby, football, athletics.
09:34And I think we watch most of it at home. Now, I just have to pop the tail under and wrap in foil.
09:43If I leave it the full length, not many people get it in the fridge.
09:49To help the curing process, we have to weigh down the wrapped salmon.
09:54Tins are fine. Into the fridge with those. OK.
09:58Now leave the salmon to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours.
10:05So how old were you, Gabby, when you started cooking?
10:08Well, I didn't really cook Mary until I got married, I don't think, properly.
10:13Pre-working life, yeah, I was a gymnast. I was living at home.
10:17And so my mum was a really good cook until about the mid-80s when the microwave came to town.
10:25And like a lot of women who were busy then, I think the idea of ready-made meals was quite attractive.
10:31People don't realise, do they, that that was kind of before then, people didn't have them.
10:36So my grandma would never have bought anything ready-made.
10:38And so we used to have lots of lasagnas and things like that that came out of the microwave.
10:44No need for ready meals with a dish as simple as this one.
10:48The sauce starts with two egg yolks.
10:51Pop the whites in there.
10:53Oh, now you're going to see how I...
10:55No, no.
10:56I've just put the whites in there by accident.
10:59That's all right. That's perfectly right.
11:01And I've just split the egg yolk.
11:03We don't mind. Wait a minute.
11:05That doesn't matter. One more egg, please.
11:09Never mind about mistakes, all part of the joy of cooking.
11:13Castor sugar, white wine vinegar and Dijon mustard are whisked into the egg yolks, then the sunflower oil.
11:23I'll do the pouring slowly.
11:25And there it is.
11:26And like making mayonnaise.
11:28Yeah.
11:29It does get thicker.
11:30Yeah.
11:31God, I've been working my forearms out for...
11:34If you think that those Victorian women had very big muscles here.
11:38They didn't have those machines, did they?
11:40They certainly didn't.
11:42More dill to complement the salmon's cure, but fresh this time.
11:46See what you think.
11:47OK.
11:55It's not bad, is it?
11:56It's delicious.
11:57But not as delicious as when served with the finished gravlax.
12:01Let's turn that round so you can see it.
12:03Oh, gorgeous.
12:04Shall I get some plates?
12:05Not that I'm desperate to try this or anything, Mary.
12:09So, if you were doing smoked salmon, you would do long, thin slices, but not so with this.
12:16So, you do it at a slight angle.
12:19And they can be a little bit thicker, can't they?
12:21It's definitely thicker.
12:22Oh, I can't wait to make this.
12:24I can't believe how easy this is.
12:30I'm ravenous.
12:31That's the thing about cooking it.
12:32It makes you hungry, doesn't it?
12:38Mmm.
12:39That is absolutely delicious.
12:45I've always loved cooking with fish.
12:47It's the original, quick, no-fuss meal.
12:50Look at that.
12:52That's fantastic.
12:53Look at that.
12:54And I try to visit local fishmongers on my travels.
12:58Look at that monkfish.
12:59That's the mother-in-law fish.
13:01Aww.
13:02That's what we call it in Cork, the mother-in-law fish.
13:04What, cos it's got such an ugly face or something?
13:06That's it.
13:07You are.
13:09I worked in a fishmongers in Bath when I was 21,
13:12so I could up-skill, as they say nowadays.
13:15I've got something to show you.
13:17Right, let's have a little look.
13:18As you might have guessed, it's fish today.
13:21Now, all these fish that you're seeing are the sort
13:23that you would have to go to a good fishmonger for,
13:26and you'd have a nice lot to choose from.
13:29I remember the shirt.
13:31Then, to the herring, they should have a nice pink face.
13:35And I'll show you now how to bone a herring
13:37if you want to do it yourself at home.
13:39Start from the fleshy side.
13:41Take a sharp knife and put it above the bone.
13:44So, long strokes, using the whole blade,
13:46or nearly all the blade, all the way down.
13:48I would have bought the fish myself.
13:51I would have brought it in ice boxes.
13:54I would have planned everything.
13:56Now, I don't make fish stock with this bone.
13:59I give it to the cat.
14:01Now, I'm going to prepare a fish for my recipe
14:03that I'm going to do.
14:05I bought these two lemon fillets.
14:07Put the skin side down.
14:09Lie the fish out.
14:11Take the knife.
14:12Make sure that the handle's dry
14:13so it doesn't slip in your hand.
14:15Start with a sawing action at the tail,
14:17not going through the skin,
14:19and you just tip it over.
14:20It's really not too difficult.
14:22I worked in a fishmonger so I knew about fish
14:25and I wanted to tell people about fish
14:27that perhaps they didn't know.
14:29Mary, you're pushing boundaries here.
14:31You know, showing people what to do on TV,
14:34how to cook.
14:35In a landscape that wasn't particularly friendly
14:37towards women in lots of industries,
14:39you look like you've got a lot of ambition there.
14:42Do you know, I wanted everybody to enjoy cooking as well.
14:46You enjoy cooking as much as I did,
14:48and television is the best medium.
14:51You have several thousand people watching you,
14:54maybe millions,
14:56and it's the best classroom you could ever have.
14:59Of course, then came all the chefs
15:01and very few girls.
15:03Of course, Delia was the first and she was brilliant.
15:06And did she help give you confidence
15:08that you could actually be ambitious in this landscape?
15:10I admired her enormously and still do.
15:13And you now are blazing that trail
15:16for other female cooks as well.
15:17I hope so.
15:22I feel so lucky about my life in food.
15:25I never imagined all this when I started out.
15:30It's hard to grasp that I've written so many cookbooks
15:33and appeared in countless cooking shows
15:36from the 60s through to Bake Off in 2010,
15:40and the dozens after that.
15:42But I'm not the only one who breaks boundaries.
15:48Gabby is one of the first female presenters
15:51of the country's biggest sports show.
15:54Match of the Day, that music, don't you change it?
15:57We're not changing the music, absolutely not.
15:59I'm very excited about the job,
16:01but I might not be doing Match of the Day when I'm 90,
16:03but I hope I'm still working hard.
16:05You're such an inspiration.
16:07I was also inspired by the women around me,
16:14and I remember watching my mother making casseroles at home.
16:19This one is ideal for any busy family,
16:22and I'm using Beef Cheeks, a very modern cut of meat.
16:27I first had Beef Cheeks in our pub restaurant,
16:31and I absolutely loved it and thought it was different.
16:34So I went straight away to my local butcher.
16:37Yes, they had it, and the supermarket too.
16:40So I thought, it's time to have a go.
16:43I've been cooking for a long, long time,
16:45but there's always something new to me,
16:47and I will always take the challenge.
16:50Fry off some streaky bacon,
16:52then use the remaining fat to brown the Beef Cheeks.
16:56I've used two, each sliced in half.
17:01There's a little bit of natural marbling in the Beef Cheeks,
17:04and that will all become crispy brown when I turn them over.
17:09Remove them,
17:11and fry diced onions, celery, and finely grated garlic.
17:17They will absorb all those glorious, meaty flavours.
17:22Then a little bit of thickening with some flour.
17:27Just a very little curry powder. There it is.
17:31That adds a little bit of spice, but it's certainly not a curried dish.
17:36A can of chopped tomatoes.
17:38I can still smell that bacon fat. Lovely.
17:41And some rich beef stock.
17:45And any sediment that's at the bottom there, certainly not burnt,
17:50but I'm taking my spatula across the bottom, scratching it up so that it all adds flavour.
17:57And it does need a little bit of fortifying.
17:59Very often I cook with red wine, but I've often got a bottle of port, not expensive port,
18:05and it's amazing, even if I have a gravy that I think should have a little bit more flavour.
18:10A little dash of port in it, and this one I'm going to have at about 100ml.
18:15That's exact. Now salt and pepper.
18:21Once the sauce has boiled and thickened, return the bacon and beef cheeks.
18:27That's it. That's going to simmer just until it's come to a full rolling boil.
18:34Lid on and into a 140 fan oven for four and a half hours.
18:40Your work is done.
18:41While this is cooking, you can get on to all the other things that you have to do and catch up on.
18:49Lay the table, get everything ready, do a totally different job.
18:53You know that it's looking after itself.
19:03It looks good. It looks rich, doesn't it?
19:06Now I'm going to add some horseradish to that, hot horseradish, plenty of sauce there, and some cream.
19:14If Gabby wants to freeze this dish to make her life even easier,
19:19she can simply do so before adding the horseradish and cream.
19:23So let's just lift that out.
19:28And this lovely sort of chunky sauce.
19:31Now look how easily that fork went through.
19:33Gosh, that smells good.
19:39That has just melted. I've hardly had to chew it.
19:43So good.
19:44I could happily finish this little rock in about five minutes.
19:48And the horseradish is bringing it all together.
19:50It's so wonderful that Gabby's blazing the trail for the next generation of women in sport.
20:03Well done! Have a little jog over again! Yes!
20:07After cooking, sport has been one of my favourite pastimes.
20:10I'll have a go at anything.
20:18Oh, she's good!
20:20No matter the challenge.
20:24Good shot!
20:25And I have to go to the top of the board, don't I?
20:27Yeah.
20:29Great shot!
20:30One, two, three.
20:31Some with less success.
20:33Oh, that's a shot.
20:34It's not six though.
20:35It's not six, probably four.
20:37Go!
20:39Then others.
20:40Go on!
20:42Four!
20:43So I'm thrilled to visit my local team.
20:51Look, the sun's come out for you.
20:58And you're all under 14?
20:59Yes.
21:00What a smile.
21:02Every sock is pulled up.
21:04Yeah.
21:05Mary, will you send them off for training?
21:07I will.
21:08Oh, I've always wanted.
21:09I'm only trusted with a whistle for the dog.
21:11This is much better.
21:12So, off to training you go.
21:26For my final recipe, the perfect treat for hungry sportswomen.
21:32New York baked cheesecake.
21:35Once my 70s dinner party staple,
21:39now an everyday treat.
21:42Two simple stages and a slow bake.
21:46Easy peasy.
21:49New York cheesecake.
21:51How about that?
21:52I love cheesecake.
21:54Do you remember what I made for you for pudding, Mary, when you came round?
21:58It was one of your cheesecakes.
21:59It was very memorable.
22:01A lemon cheesecake.
22:02This is a cooked cheesecake.
22:03Oh, okay.
22:04And I think they're lovely.
22:05And it hasn't changed over the years.
22:07I just love it.
22:09Its signature base is simply crushed digestive biscuits mixed with demerara sugar and melted butter.
22:18I always put just a little bit of demerara sugar in it because it gives it that crunch.
22:22Mm-hmm.
22:23And, you know, food is all about textures as well as flavours.
22:25Make sure the 20cm spring-form tin is lined with baking paper.
22:32And then just flatten it out again with your spatula.
22:35Your spatula.
22:36Mm-hmm.
22:37So that really, I'm sure you've done this many, many times for cheesecakes.
22:40When you came round for dinner, we had minestrone.
22:42Do you remember?
22:43I'd never made minestrone soup before, but I decided it was traditional.
22:46And then we had lamb, which I'd slow cooked for about 12 hours.
22:49And then I made the lemon cheesecake, which was from your cookery book, actually, Mary.
22:54And you said, I don't even remember, my children were so impressed, Ruben and Lois,
22:57because you said it had a nice, firm bottom.
22:59Well, do you know, it is about the company and the fun as well as the food.
23:04It is, it is.
23:07The filling is simply full-fat cream cheese, costa sugar and vanilla extract.
23:14That's absolutely fine.
23:16That looks beautiful already, doesn't it?
23:17I use all full-fat.
23:19If anybody doesn't like the sound of it, they can have a small slice.
23:22Because the taste is just so much better.
23:24Oh, it tastes better, it is better.
23:26Flour and sour cream are next.
23:29It gives a little bit of a bite to it.
23:32Mm-hmm.
23:33Can I start blending this?
23:34No.
23:35You're dying to get going, aren't you?
23:37We've got eggs to go in there.
23:39OK.
23:40The eggs are essential to create that lovely baked cheesecake texture.
23:47Into the tin and we're done.
23:49Set the oven for one 40 fan for 40 minutes.
23:53How long have you and Kenny been married?
23:56We have been married 24 years this summer.
23:58And did you have a wedding cake?
23:59Yeah, we did.
24:00The base was very traditional.
24:01But I'm not a big fan of fruitcake.
24:02And so then we had one tier that was a Victoria sponge and then we had one tier that was a chocolate cake.
24:06But isn't that a good idea?
24:07You've got something for everybody.
24:08And then we had these brilliant figurines made of us at the top out of marzipan.
24:10Well, they were more than marzipan because we kept them for years, Mary.
24:12And I'm going to tell you a sad story now.
24:13We moved house once and when we went into the box, I think some little mice had got into the garage and they ate our heads.
24:17And so we were just there with our bodies.
24:18Well, I'm glad you've got it today.
24:19The art to this cheesecake is once it's had its 40 minutes, turn off the heat and let it sit for two hours.
24:26And then we had these brilliant figurines made of us at the top out of marzipan.
24:28Well, they were more than marzipan because we kept them for years, Mary.
24:30And I'm going to tell you a sad story now.
24:31We moved house once and when we went into the box, I think some little mice had got into the garage and they ate our heads.
24:35And so we were just there with our bodies.
24:37Well, I'm glad you've got it today.
24:40The art to this cheesecake is once it's had its 40 minutes, turn off the heat and let it sit for two hours and then overnight in the fridge.
24:52Like this one I made earlier.
24:55You see, it's absolutely level.
24:57Just, you're so Keith.
25:00Press the palette knife against the tin and then round.
25:04OK.
25:06Just so that you're all the way round.
25:09That's right.
25:10So, Mary, I was saying before about how much I admire the fact that you're working so hard at your age.
25:16You're such an inspiration.
25:17But it's interesting.
25:18People didn't really know you how they know you now until you were kind of in your early 70s, really.
25:24That's right.
25:25But you were busy building, you know, your career and you worked all the way through.
25:29My first job was with the electricity board.
25:32I've got a newspaper cutting here.
25:34And you can see this is old by the colour of the mirror.
25:36It's from the newspaper.
25:37I think it's the Bath Chronicle.
25:39And it was one of the first times that I did a demonstration in the pavilion.
25:45I can tell you I was shaking like a leaf.
25:47What are you doing?
25:48I was showing off all the new electric cookers.
25:51Why is the man with you in a top hat?
25:53Because he was adding a bit of magic, I think.
25:56Right, OK.
25:57Whereas actually it was you who was creating the magic.
25:59Was it the first time you'd done anything like that?
26:01I'd been to people's houses, but not with an audience.
26:04Yeah.
26:05Did you like that audience?
26:06Did you like it when you could put a bit of performance into it?
26:09Yes, but you're shaking so much and so nervous.
26:12Now, you know, if I've got an audience, I feel I've got friends.
26:16Yeah.
26:17And you smile at them and they smile back.
26:19Our last stage is to spread on more of that tart sour cream to offset the sweetness.
26:27Perfect.
26:28You've done a very good job, you know.
26:30Have I?
26:31That's lovely.
26:32OK.
26:33Then you put the strawberries on top and you don't need to do it in any pattern.
26:37Higgledy-piggledy.
26:38OK, let's do it higgledy-piggledy.
26:39We'll do it together.
26:40OK.
26:47So we're nearly there.
26:48What do you think?
26:49Well, Mary, I think that looks absolutely delicious.
26:53I would say edible.
26:55Right.
26:56Here's a fork.
26:57Have a go.
26:58OK.
27:02Oh.
27:03Mmm.
27:06That is gorgeous.
27:08The strawberries just cut through as well, don't they?
27:10I think they're lovely, but you might put raspberries over the top.
27:13You like them?
27:14No.
27:15Can I have another?
27:16I'm not sure that I really like it.
27:19Mmm.
27:23I think my work is done.
27:25I'm sending lovely Gabby off with enough ideas for her non-stop working life.
27:31Thank you so much.
27:33It's been such a lovely day.
27:34Have we had fun?
27:35Well, we certainly have.
27:36And I know just who'd love something sweet.
27:40Does anybody like cheesecake?
27:42Yeah.
27:43Come on, then.
27:44Grab the bottom with your other hand.
27:46Well, this certainly is better than oranges at half-tangents.
27:50It's amazing.
27:52Oh, yeah.
27:54What's it like?
27:55It's really lovely.
27:57We have a little surprise for you.
27:59Are you ready, girls?
28:00Yes.
28:01Three, two, one, go!
28:03Woo!
28:04Woo!
28:05Wow!
28:06Isn't that wonderful?
28:08How amazing.
28:09Woo!
28:10Woo!
28:11Woo!
28:16Next time...
28:17Come on, Barry.
28:18That's twice.
28:19I'm joined by my kindred spirit, Jamie Oliver.
28:22You've been part of my life the whole journey.
28:24Where on earth would I rather be right now than doing this for you?
28:28Mmm!
28:29Give me a Christmas,writer, or we work with Dan DeVos.
28:32I'll see you next time.
28:33Bye!
28:37Bye!
28:39Bye!
28:41Bye!
28:45Bye!
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