Dive into the world of nail transformations with this epic journey of turning claw-like nails into stunning beauties! Watch as I tackle the toughest nail challenges, from overgrown cuticles to downward curves, and see the magic unfold with a sprinkle of creativity and a dash of patience. Trust me, you won't believe your eyes! Hit that subscribe button for more nail adventures and let us know in the comments which part amazed you the most! #nails #beauty #nailart #transformation #manicure
👉 This channel was created in collaboration with @alenalavrenteva
00:00:00 - Initial Thoughts on Problematic Nails
00:01:04 - First Impressions and Realizations
00:02:01 - Manicure Challenges and Techniques
00:03:12 - Manicure Process and Tools
00:04:39 - Cuticle Trimming and Client Advice
00:06:56 - Polishing and Managing Expectations
00:08:31 - Restoring and Shaping the Nails
00:10:22 - Applying and Fine-Tuning the Nail Gel
👉 This channel was created in collaboration with @alenalavrenteva
00:00:00 - Initial Thoughts on Problematic Nails
00:01:04 - First Impressions and Realizations
00:02:01 - Manicure Challenges and Techniques
00:03:12 - Manicure Process and Tools
00:04:39 - Cuticle Trimming and Client Advice
00:06:56 - Polishing and Managing Expectations
00:08:31 - Restoring and Shaping the Nails
00:10:22 - Applying and Fine-Tuning the Nail Gel
Category
🛠️
LifestyleTranscript
00:00When I saw the photo of these hands just to choose a model for myself, I couldn't even imagine that
00:05something like this was waiting for me.
00:08Just look at how the ingrown points, I can't even say they're not cut, they're picked at so much, right
00:14down to the sinuses.
00:16And plus, the pecking shape itself. By the way, this is how the hands looked with the coating.
00:20At first glance, nails are just nails, albeit with slightly picked cuticles.
00:25There's a slight tendency, the nails are kind of claw-like, and I thought maybe they just have a lot
00:29of material on them.
00:30But of course, when this model came to me, and I was able to take a closer look at these
00:34nails, I realized I was in for an interesting adventure.
00:38Because besides the fact that the nails grow downwards a lot, there's another problem called hyponychium,
00:44which had grown there to such an extent that I thought there probably wouldn't be any way to properly lift
00:50and file these nails.
00:51Because when the hyponychium extends far beyond the fingertip like it really sticks out, it definitely creates a certain difficulty.
01:00By the way, at some point I realized that there actually wasn't much product on there.
01:04At first I took a bit with rough blades, thinking I'd have to file off a lot,
01:08but while removing the first nail, I realized I needed to switch bits, so I took a softer one.
01:13Here I have a blue band, it's a Christmas tree bit, and it has, let's say, fewer abrasive sharp blades.
01:20Because actually, there isn't a lot of material on the nails, and that's just their natural shape.
01:26So, I'm in for some very, very interesting adventures, because I realized that here I'll need to lift, but not
01:32in the usual way.
01:33So, the correction is going to be really, really difficult.
01:36The only normal finger, in my opinion, is the ring finger.
01:39So, it's more or less fine, without any obvious problems, and I'm not even talking to you about the cuticle
01:44yet.
01:45By the way, the girl honestly admits that, yes, she used to bite her nails as a child,
01:51then she started getting nail coatings, and the problem of nail biting went away.
01:56But another problem appeared.
01:58She started picking at her cuticles with her fingers, her nails, and so on.
02:02She demonstrated various methods for achieving this.
02:05Ultimately, we develop a skin condition around the nails.
02:08If you have a client like this, the first thing you should tell them is that they definitely need to
02:13see a psychologist.
02:15A manicurist can help here, which is what I'm going to do.
02:18The very first thing I'll use is manicured talc.
02:21I'm not being stingy with it here.
02:23I need it to work well.
02:24I have talc, and I always use this particular talc.
02:27After the nails have, let's say, soaked in the talc, and everything has dried as much as possible,
02:32I'm using a red-banded flame-shaped bit with a sharp tip from KMIS.
02:37I chose this specific bit for a particular reason,
02:41because I understand that when people pick at and damage the skin around their nails,
02:46even though it looks quite rough, it's actually very thin.
02:49And just remember the index finger, because we're going to have a lot of different adventures with it.
02:54So, we work very carefully.
02:56The video here is sped up.
02:58I just wanted to show how many manipulations are done on a single finger.
03:02So, this is far from a standard procedure.
03:05It's not just a manicure that takes an hour or an hour and a half.
03:08You'll really have to work here, but actually, only the very first manicure will be difficult.
03:12After that, the effect should accumulate and intensify, of course,
03:16provided that all the rules for nail care are followed.
03:19As for the number of rotations, right now, I'm working with the SP-130 device in my hands.
03:25I think it's already famous and well-known to everyone.
03:27The very one that practically doesn't make any noise.
03:29I have to constantly check if it's even working or if I forgot to turn it on.
03:34And as for the rotations, I have about 20,000 here.
03:37The movements aren't actually fast.
03:39The video is just sped up.
03:40I'm working in forward and reverse, meaning in both directions, very carefully.
03:45And the most important principle here is that under no circumstances do I apply pressure to the nail plate.
03:51Because this way, it's very easy to make cuts and thin out the nail plate,
03:56especially along the sinuses and the side walls.
03:59The handpiece of the device is shown.
04:01We absolutely don't need that.
04:02And yes, it has as many as 50,000 revolutions, but to be honest, I never work at 50.
04:08In the comments, mention the maximum speed you drive at.
04:12I'm continuing to work with the same bit at the same speed.
04:15Let me remind you, my bit has a red ring and I'll show it to you up close.
04:20This is how it appeared initially.
04:22I've cleaned everything here to the best of my ability.
04:25Growth points have simply shifted into the sinuses.
04:28The key is to not overdo the treatment.
04:31A super clean, deep manicure is unnecessary.
04:33Because she was already picking at it here before,
04:36knowing when to stop is truly priceless in this situation.
04:39Now we're moving on to the trimming, and this is where the real fun begins.
04:43There won't be any straight cuts here, or perfect little rolls, or anything like that.
04:47The main goal here is to try to even everything out as much as possible by trimming the cuticle.
04:53So, the manicurist's job in this situation is to clean and smooth everything out
04:57in such a way that she won't want to pick at or scratch anything for as long as possible.
05:03I'm using scissors with a curved tip from a brand I've been working with for I think three years now
05:08without switching, and this is the model.
05:11Here's the letter in the name, and it actually indicates that the tip is curved.
05:17Look at how convenient this is to use.
05:19By the way, yes, I'm showing you right now.
05:21As promised, here's a mandatory mess-up.
05:24She had the most dangerous spot right here, and it was picked at.
05:27I'm attempting to get in there, and it's about to occur.
05:31It's likely happened to every technician, and I'm not embarrassed to share it.
05:34I think that, especially with nails like these, it can definitely happen.
05:39I wouldn't call it normal, but it can happen.
05:41What should you do in this situation?
05:43I have special astringent products that I just apply to a tissue,
05:47not directly to the wound that's important.
05:49I wipe it off, and if necessary, I can do so several times.
05:53So the purpose of this liquid is that, in the place where we have a little hole,
05:58it helps the blood clot faster and, therefore, close the entry for infection.
06:03After all the procedures are done, we just continue working.
06:07But of course, I try not to touch this area anymore.
06:10We still have the polishing stage ahead, and there I will also avoid this area.
06:14As you can see, the cuticle is absolutely uneven, so the cut is as neat as it can possibly be.
06:21So, some fingers look better, some look worse.
06:23Basically, the ones that were easier for her to pick at are, of course, in a worse condition.
06:28But nevertheless, even though the work was difficult, I found it very interesting.
06:33And I really enjoyed working with this model a lot.
06:36For those who will ask in the comments,
06:38Elena, how fast do you do this kind of manicure?
06:41Unfortunately, I can't tell you that I do it super fast.
06:43Because, first of all, it's a shoot, which is always a bit inconvenient.
06:46And secondly, we have a more challenging task here.
06:48This is an extremely unusual situation.
06:51Hoping to complete this type of manicure in 1.5 to 2 hours is not realistic.
06:56The hands themselves are new too.
06:57You know that feeling when you need to figure out what to do with your hands?
07:01And here's the moment when I'm explaining to this girl that, actually,
07:05her cuticle line is way too high precisely because she picks at her nails.
07:09And I'm trying to explain that when she stops doing that.
07:12First of all, there won't be such a pronounced cuticle ridge.
07:15And secondly, it will settle against the nail plate, lay flat, and then the nail will look less hooked.
07:20Well, the so-called graphotic nail.
07:22So the situation will improve at that point.
07:25Next, we move on to buffing.
07:27And here, actually, everything is important.
07:30I'm currently using a 50 diameter ball with a blue stripe.
07:33I'm also using KMIS, meaning all the bursts in this video are from KMIS, all diamond ones, and the device
07:40is the same.
07:41And here's an important point.
07:43The rotation speed is currently about 4 to 5 thousand revolutions per minute.
07:48So it's really, really low, and I'm polishing with quite a bit of pressure.
07:53At the same time, the client doesn't feel any heat or pain.
07:55This is a technique at super low speeds.
07:58I really love it, both for e-manicures and for polishing.
08:01And here, I basically have to polish almost the entire finger from all sides.
08:06The process was long, so I didn't include all of it in the video,
08:09because you would just fall asleep watching how many times I polished everything here.
08:13So, an important point.
08:14A large ball with a diameter of 50, and our speed is 4 to 5 thousand revolutions per minute.
08:19And don't forget about stretching the skin, so it doesn't get pinched or wrinkled.
08:24This is the key to success with this type of polishing.
08:27Remember, my aim is to ensure she won't want to criticize anything for a long time.
08:31Because nail biters are always trying to fight imperfections,
08:35and that's actually how they end up creating this vicious cycle.
08:39Next, I degrease everything using a lint-free wipe.
08:42By the way, here's a picture.
08:44Take a look.
08:44These are wipes from Domec, which I've been using for a long time.
08:48And they're my absolute favorite lint-free wipes.
08:50Because they really don't have any lint at all.
08:53Just look.
08:53Once the nails are degreased, everything is clean, smooth, and beautiful.
08:57After all the procedures are done, I assess the situation once again,
09:01and it's time to start restoring these nails.
09:04I'm not even talking about applying a coating, because here we really have to restore them.
09:08I picked forms with a strong curve here.
09:10Right now I have shokmi in my hands, and I was choosing between similar ones.
09:14Well, not exactly the same, but similar forms.
09:16From Imenka.
09:18She also has a really, really strong curve there.
09:21But it seemed to me that shokmi's was even stronger, so that's why I chose these forms.
09:26So in my opinion, they fit here the best.
09:29And it's important to understand that when we set the shape,
09:31first of all, we'll do it with an offset, and second, from the very highest point.
09:35Let's start our work.
09:36We apply the primer.
09:37By the way, I went on Wildberries and read reviews about this shokmi primer.
09:41Many people report that the primer and base are ineffective,
09:44causing everything to peel off and not last long.
09:47And then I read that people, for some reason, remove the sticky layer from the base.
09:50Just in case, I'm letting you know that you shouldn't do that.
09:54The sticky layer on the base is exactly what we need for good adhesion.
09:58For the primer to help rather than cause problems,
10:01you must apply it in a very thin layer,
10:03and you need to spread the base over the entire nail plate,
10:06so that there are no empty spots left.
10:08Cure the base for 60 seconds, try on the form again,
10:11mark the free edge for yourself, and take a beautiful gel.
10:14Also from shokmi, in the natural shade, shade number 2,
10:18you can remember this because it will look super nice on the nails later.
10:22What am I doing now?
10:23I took a small brush and just a tiny bit of gel,
10:26and right on the spots where I have the most problematic areas,
10:29meaning the stress zone, the filed points, and the ingrown area.
10:32I applied gel there and cured it a little.
10:35Next, I take a slightly bigger drop and will start forming the free edge.
10:39Since the gel has a medium consistency,
10:41not super thick and not completely runny,
10:44but right in the middle,
10:45it's the most comfortable for me to work with in upper forms.
10:48This gel is ideal for beginners.
10:50Next, cure it using the lamp and try it on.
10:53This is how it looks.
10:54All my stress zones are covered,
10:57so I apply the base drop, meaning the main amount of material.
11:01It's important not to go all the way to the very top,
11:03because we remember that we placed the form from the highest point
11:07and a little bit with a gap, we will do that.
11:09As expected, things aren't going according to my plan.
11:12This is the anticipated mess up.
11:15Visually, from above, everything looks great, everything is beautiful,
11:18and I could have just not turned my finger over,
11:20not told you anything, and pretended that everything went smoothly.
11:22But nails are very complicated,
11:25because their curvature is just incredible.
11:27Here, my model is helping me, curing it with a flashlight.
11:31By the way, the flashlight is also from the Birthday Boy,
11:33I'll definitely attach a link to it.
11:35We've cured it,
11:36and now I need to turn the nail over and fix any missing spots.
11:40I'm clearly missing some parallels,
11:42because when I was shaping the form,
11:44I was afraid to lower it down enough.
11:46Because we always try to place it straight,
11:48so that our nails don't point downward.
11:50But since the situation here is unusual, actually,
11:53I should have pressed the form even lower.
11:56That's the problem I faced, and it's also psychological.
11:59When you're always trying to make straight nails,
12:01because it's super trendy right now,
12:03you can't press the form down exactly where you need to.
12:06Here, I had already gotten more or less used to this nail shape,
12:09and I started doing better,
12:11meaning with each finger it got better and better.
12:13And I plan to keep working with this model again and again,
12:16because I want to practice applying upper forms specifically on such challenging nails.
12:21Here, by the way,
12:22I think upper forms are actually the best solution.
12:24Because with such a hypernicium, honestly,
12:26I just don't know how else to deal with it here.
12:28But you can write in the comments if you have any life hacks
12:31for when your nail bed has just gone beyond the limits.
12:33And now, let's see how it looks visually.
12:37So, like, from above,
12:39when we remove our upper forms,
12:41they already look, well, more or less kind of nice.
12:44But what was happening inside honestly horrified me,
12:47because I realized that I had no idea how I was going to deal with it
12:51than when it's time to file from the inside.
12:54I mean, like, okay, there's some kind of little bubble there.
12:57By the way, the forms fit worst on the ring fingernails,
13:00which I thought would be the easiest.
13:02And that's because the ring finger curves the least,
13:05so the form doesn't really fit it very well.
13:07Here, I'm showing the second thumb,
13:09placing the form again, pressing it to the highest point.
13:13So, you see, there's very little material there.
13:16We always procure with the lamp only in the cuticle area.
13:19We need the top to be cured,
13:21while the bottom should still be wet.
13:23Next, we build up the parallels.
13:25And still, it looks like I'm placing this form incorrectly.
13:28Well, I am actually doing that partially,
13:30but on the other hand, there's another point.
13:32Since the nail bed is very lowered and grows downward,
13:35no matter how hard we try,
13:36we won't be able to place this form correctly.
13:38Because basically, everything needs to be filed down.
13:40So, it's a deceptively good-looking moment,
13:43as if everything is great.
13:45And I'm like, look, see how little is left here.
13:47You only need to file the sides and the free edge,
13:50but the real nightmare will be hidden under the nails.
13:53I'm using a 100x180 grit disposable file from ShockMe.
13:58They included these files in my package,
14:00but they're the use-and-throw-away kind,
14:02not the stick-on type.
14:04The grit is actually pretty decent,
14:05so keep that in mind,
14:07and the price is more than reasonable.
14:09And now we're moving on to filing the thumb,
14:12which looks absolutely great from the top.
14:14No questions here.
14:16You can see it's even, you can see it's nice.
14:18Well, yes, there are some issues on the inside,
14:22but first we'll deal with what has leaked out.
14:24So, the two ring fingers turned out the worst,
14:27because the shape here has such a big curve.
14:30Actually, it's this nail that doesn't fit us at all.
14:33But it's okay, I'll just file it a little,
14:35because I had to tilt it a bit,
14:37so that the nails would look more or less similar to each other.
14:40Next, we start filing.
14:42Everything looks good on the middle finger.
14:43I'm filing it now.
14:45By the way, about the speed,
14:46well, it's about 18 to 20,000 as well.
14:50I adjust depending on the situation
14:51to make sure it's comfortable.
14:53And now comes the most difficult finger,
14:55which, spoiler alert,
14:56I won't be able to do completely,
14:58because in my opinion, it's physically impossible.
15:00First of all, brittle nails are the first problem,
15:03but there's also a second, less obvious one.
15:05The nails are very twisted,
15:07meaning we can see pieces of the nail plate
15:10that are just curling inward.
15:12And, accordingly,
15:13since I have a very sensitive and overgrown hyponicium there,
15:16I don't have the technical ability
15:18to use a drill in that area.
15:20Despite my efforts with various tools,
15:22like scissors, files, and diamond or carbide bits,
15:24I'm unable to succeed.
15:25I don't have the ability to bring this nail
15:28to a perfect condition the way it should be,
15:30because there's a very, very sensitive hyponicium there.
15:34The only option I see when working with these nails
15:37to do everything correctly
15:38is to first remove the coating.
15:40And for a few days, yes, with breaks,
15:42tell the client to file down the free edge
15:45as much as possible,
15:46as close to zero as possible,
15:47in order to calm down the hyponicium a little.
15:50So, if the length is very short,
15:52then there is a chance,
15:53but since the girl wears a medium nail length.
15:56And for a very long time,
15:57that's why we ended up with what we have.
15:59Actually, I cut out a huge number of my attempts
16:02and different drill bits that I tried to use there,
16:05but I couldn't get any further than this.
16:07I couldn't go past the hyponicium,
16:09so I was only able to open up the very, very edge.
16:13But after that, nothing else worked out for us.
16:15And it turns out that the nail wall itself is thick here,
16:18and from the inside, honestly,
16:20it doesn't look very nice at all.
16:22But when you have to choose between not harming the client
16:25and Instagram aesthetics,
16:27I choose the first because it's important to me
16:29that she feels comfortable wearing it.
16:31So, this is how you end up with an unattractive nail wall.
16:35But after discussing and consulting with the client,
16:38we came to a mutual decision to leave it just like this.
16:41Yes, she will live with it.
16:43Ultimately, the top saved the situation for us,
16:46as the goal was not to create volume,
16:48but simply to cover up that top.
16:50But she says she wants some kind of color,
16:53just a little something cute.
16:54And at first, we were considering using a base,
16:57but in the end, we just decided to cover it up.
16:59The quickest option is a top coat
17:01with a non-sticky finish,
17:03and on top of that, it slightly tints
17:05and adds a bit of shine.
17:06In my opinion, it's just super.
17:08The perfect option is this line of top coats from Imen,
17:11which includes some pearlescent options,
17:14ones with glitter and others with more pronounced effects.
17:17Basically, there are top coats here for every occasion.
17:20And since the girl who came to me
17:22works as an administrator at a clinic,
17:24just to clarify, she doesn't work with patients,
17:26she works at the reception desk,
17:27so it's okay for her to get her nails done.
17:29But still, there is a request from the management
17:32that everything should look more or less moderate.
17:34So you can screenshot Top Start Pink by Imen.
17:37This is the best solution in this case.
17:40While she's finishing drying everything,
17:42I took out the oil.
17:43Here I have grapeseed oil for the cuticle
17:45from the Domix oil series,
17:47which I've been using probably since this line first appeared.
17:50And of course, I also recommended that she use oil
17:53in any unclear situation.
17:55Well, basically, I said she could use any oil she likes
17:59with any scent, but to be honest,
18:01for home care, I gave her Monada oil,
18:03also from Domix.
18:04I have a lot of them,
18:06and I often give them to my models
18:07because I want to see the results.
18:09And understanding and getting the client used to
18:12replacing a bad habit with this new good one,
18:15because if you really want to pick at something,
18:18it's better to do it with oil,
18:19giving yourself a massage and moisturizing the cuticle.
18:22And then she'll have less desire
18:24to pick at her nails,
18:25and they'll always look well-groomed.
18:27Here's the final result.
18:29Rate it in the comments,
18:30and feel free to be harsh.
18:32Yes, I know it's not perfect,
18:34but in the context of what's here,
18:36I can say for myself
18:38that this is the best I could do here.
18:40Well, at least in my opinion.
18:42Here I'm explaining how we put all of this together.
18:45Visually, I'm modeling this situation
18:47that we unraveled its length
18:48and directed it into the right, let's say, channel.
18:51By the way, if you look at these nails from the side,
18:55they still tend to grow a little downward.
18:57So they're kind of slightly curving down,
19:00but we physically can't lift them anymore at this stage.
19:03I'll keep working with her.
19:05For now, share your thoughts in the comments
19:07about clients with severely curved down nails.
19:10That's it from me.
19:11For now, share your thoughts in the comments.
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